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CityBites 43 Summer 2012 issue
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| FREE |summER 2012
Plus! Sake + Beer + BookS + reStaurantS + Salmon
A wining And dining guide for the hungry exPlorer
2012 summeressentiAls
Summer 2012 3
From the editor
contentsSummer 2012 No. 43
Last summer we piled the family into the car
and road-tripped around Ontario. We hit
Sudbury, Goderich, Tobermory, Muskoka,
Georgian Bay, Northumberland County,
Kingston and Niagara. I was struck by the great
diversity of landscape and produce across this
great province, as we explored farmer’s markets
and artisanal food shops dedicated, obviously,
to their regional bounty.
We’ll do it again this year, spending a little more
time in the Trent Hills area of Northumberland,
where we’ve just bought a modest off-the-grid
shack on a creek. We’ll be spending a lot of
time at Empire Cheese & Butter Co-op, owned
by local dairy farmers and with roots stretching
back to 1867. They stock an abundance of local
products, like hand-made candies, maple syrup
and sauces, in addition to their award-winning
cheeses. Empire Cheese
is just one of many local
gems that make road-
tripping in Ontario so
rewarding. There’s a whole
lot to discover — and eat—out there, so get to it!
Dick Snyder, Editor • [email protected]
@citybites
city bites magazine
citybitestoronto
Cover: icon illustrations by 123rf.com
Regular Bites5 Starters Burning Kiln Winery in Norfolk County.
6 Crumbs News for eaters.
7 Out&About The Farmhouse Tavern.
8 Newsbites Summer cocktails; Grow.
9 Testing We drink it so you don’t have to.
10 Books Read ’em and eat.
11 Head to Head Sake.
12 Chef Q&A Indian innovator Vikram Vij.
13 Ingredients Montreal’s Société-Orignal.
14 Dining Out The Filipino cuisine scene.
34 One Last Bite The Stop’s Night Market.
The Experts28 Szabo on Wine John Szabo on your sommelier.
29 Living on the Veg Kait Fowlie visits Castro’s Lounge.
30 Fishmongering Dan Donovan evaluates salmon.
31 The Gourmudgeon Stephen Temkin praises goat.
32 The Ej Konrad Ejbich on Bill C-311.
33 Libations Stephen Beaumont samples ciders.
The Summer Essentials Guide 18 Four Great Things to Do Need ideas for summer eating and drinking? Here you go.
19 A Taste of Historic Kingston Poutine, haute cuisine and everything in between.
20 Top Sparklers For the love of Cava: three great bottles to try now.
20 Fish Fry Take a tour for some delicious local fish.
21 Small Pleasures Rating the best mini bottles of wine at LCBO.
22 Best Summer Beers Cool crafted quaffers.
23 Summer Beer Events Taste your face off at these fests.
24 Prince Edward County For the love of wine, and more.
25 Best Ice Creams Rounding up some cool faves.
26 Picnic Gear Great outdoor stuff from Victorinox.
Food TourVisit citybites.ca for more tips on touring ontario for great eats. our website will be growing through-out the summer!
Editor Dick Snyder/[email protected]
Art Director Craig Sinclair/[email protected]
Editorial Assistant Kait Fowlie
Wine Editor John Szabo
Director of Vinous Affairs Zoltan Szabo
Contributors Stephen Beaumont, Andrew Brudz, Dan Donovan,
Konrad Ejbich, Maia Filar, Kait Fowlie, Marc Green, Kerry Knight,
Alan McGinty, Kate More, Sanober Motiwala, John Szabo,
Zoltan Szabo, Stephen Temkin
Photography and illustration Konrad Ejbich, Ross Spencer,
Dick Snyder
Publisher Paul Alsop/[email protected]
Sr. Account Manager Wendy Lyall Gardner/[email protected]
Account Manager Alexander McCarthy/[email protected]
Account Manager John Walker/[email protected]
Email [email protected] or visit www.citybites.ca
Advertising Inquiries [email protected]
City Bites Media Inc.,
26 Dalhousie St. Suite 200,
Toronto, ON, M5B 2A5,
647-827-1705. City Bites
is published six times
a year by City Bites
Media Inc.
3Summer 2012
FROM THE EDITOR
contentsSummer 2012 No. 43
The Tomatoes: (p. 25).
With this, what we like to call our “early”
summer edition, we celebrate another Wine
Issue, which is always a lot of fun to put
together because of all the wine drinking that’s
involved, naturally. It’s always a struggle to
shrink all our ideas down to just a few pages,
because the world of wine is so vast and ever-
changing.
Or the next best thing. How about a website?
Finally, we’ve decided to go digital, and our
landing page is now live. Please visit at citybites.ca and sign up to hear from us via email,
Twitter, Tumblr, etc. We’ll be working
on our site over the summer, so come back
often to see how we’re doing. It’s always a
struggle to shrink all our ideas down to just a
few pages, because the world of wine is so vast
and ever-changing.
Always a lot of fun to put together because of
all the wine drinking that’s involved, naturally.
It’s always a struggle to shrink all our ideas
down to just a few pages, because the world.
@citybites
city bites magazine
citybitestoronto
Cover: Illustrations by 123rf.com/Justin Roque
Regular Bites5 Starters Ontario’s sommelier battle.
6 Crumbs News for eaters
7 Out&About Don Don Izakaya.
8 Humour Foodie headlines we’d like to see.
9 Grow Take a pea break.
10 Books Read ’em and eat.
11 Buying Guide Coconut milk.
12 Chef Q&A Ursa’s Jacob Sharkey Pearce.
13 Ingredients The Alphonso mango.
14 Dining Out Eating Japan.
15 Head to Head Rosé wines.
34 One Last Bite Ontario wine challenge.
The Experts29 Living on the Veg How to fi nd a vegan wine.
30 Fishmongering The secret world of tilapia.
31 The Gourmudgeon Ontario’s best chardonnay…
32 The Ej The cheapest wine at the LCBO.
33 Libations Dark and sultry summer drinks.
The Summer Issue Features 17 Think Local, Drink Global Cowbell’s Krysta Oben talks wine.
PLUS, spritzers are hip!
18 Wine Drinking Guide Great places for a glass or bottle. PLUS, Arron Barberian.
20 Top VQA Sellers Wine list greatest hits. PLUS, Linda Bramble and wines to try now!
22 Wine Weaponry The city’s wine professionals show off their corkscrews.
24 Seafood Sippers Ten great wines to enjoy with your ocean fare. PLUS, Dr. George Soleas
26 Decant Now! The defi nitive word on wine service.
27 Fruit Wines Ontario’s hidden gems.
Editor Dick Snyder/[email protected]
Art Director Craig Sinclair/[email protected]
Editorial Assistant Kait Fowlie
Wine Editor John Szabo
Director of Vinous Aff airs Zoltan Szabo
Contributors Stephen Beaumont, Greg Bolton, Andrew Brudz,
Dan Donovan, Konrad Ejbich, Maia Filar, Kait Fowlie, Arlene
Hazzan Green, Sarah B. Hood, Alan McGinty, Sanober Motiwala,
Michael Pataran, John Szabo, Zoltan Szabo, Stephen Temkin
Photography and illustration Leila Ashtari, Ashley Capp,
Konrad Ejbich, Ann Gagno, Alan McGinty, Dick Snyder
Publisher Paul Alsop/[email protected]
Sr. Account Manager Wendy Lyall Gardner/[email protected]
Account Manager Alexander McCarthy/[email protected]
Account Manager John Walker/[email protected]
Email [email protected] or visit www.citybites.ca
Advertising Inquiries [email protected]
City Bites Media Inc.,
26 Dalhousie St. Suite 200,
Toronto, ON, M5B 2A5,
647-827-1705. City Bites
is published six times
a year by City Bites
Media Inc.
Pg03_CB43.indd 1 12-06-25 2:07 PM
September 12 to 23, 2012
enter now for a chance to win a weekend getaway for two worth $500!Enter at www.DurhamSavourtheSeason.ca. PROMO CODE: OCTA
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www.DurhamSavourtheSeason.ca I 1-800-413-0017
5Summer 2012
ph
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Win
er
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the startersThe CiTyBiTes Team
alan mCGinTy
Alan McGinty has been writing
about wine for nearly ten
years and has completed the
Advanced level of the Wine
and Spirits Education Trust. He has toured
numerous regions including the Okanagan,
Napa, Bordeaux, Champagne and Rioja. He
knows Niagara very well and visits frequently,
and he’s a member of the Wine Writers’
Circle of Canada. He also digs his Cavas; see
p. 20 for some of his favourites. Follow him @
alanmcginty and winesite.ca.
Ross spenCeR
Toronto-based photographer
Ross Spencer’s love for
capturing life’s moments on
camera began 20 years ago
during an extensive trek through South East
Asia. His keen eye and creativity have paved
the way for this emerging talent, specializing
in music, commercial and event photography.
He shot two local restaurants for this issue:
The Farmhouse Tavern on p. 7 and Castro’s
Lounge on p. 29.
KeRRy KniGhT
Kerry Knight is a Toronto-
based writer and has
contributed to The Globe
and Mail, Toronto Star,
Goodfoodrev.com, Winefox.com and
swallowfood.com. He has two books
currently awaiting representation. A retired
rowing coach, he has worked in the service
industry since 1980 in Kingston, Vancouver,
Victoria, Austin and Toronto. Kerry is
married to food writer Ivy Knight, with
whom he writes The XX Files, a weekly
column for Torontostandard.com profiling
Toronto’s better bartenders. He wrote about
the joys of visiting Kingston—for the food
of course—on p. 23.
Trading Tobacco for WineNORFOLK WINERy BecKons With flavours to explore By Sanober Motiwala
A few enterprising oenophiles from Ontario’s Tobacco Belt realized that the sandy soil and moderate climate along Lake Erie that were once ideal for bustling tobacco farms are excellent terroir for wine too. And the kilns that were used to cure tobacco can be ingeniously repurposed for drying grapes in the Italian appassimento style.
That, in a nutshell, is the story of the Burning Kiln Winery located two hours from Toronto in Norfolk County. With its first harvest in 2010, the winery already has several accolades under its belt. Its Strip Room Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend was selected the official wine of the Ontario Legislature… perhaps that explains the long irresolute sessions of late.
The gorgeous landscape invites lingering and discovery, by foot, bike or vehicle. Take a tour of the modern facility set in an old barn. Samples of Burning Kiln wines are just $5 for a flight
of three. Casual fare makes a perfect lunch—with more wine—on the patio, which affords vineyard and forest views. For summer, dinner is served on Fridays and Saturdays. Thrill-seek-ers can try the “Zip and Sip” package that includes ziplining with Long Point Eco-Adventures.
BURninG DesiRes Lake Erie’s Tobacco Belt is reinvented as a place for great wine.
i WalK The Vines Burning Kiln’s sandy soil nurtures excellent merlot.
Burning Kiln Winery1709 Front Rd.St. Williams, ON519-586-9858burningkilnwinery.ca@BurningKilnWine
6 CityBites
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To learn more visit CookinGreens.comfb.com/CookinGreens
WHAT YOU’RE REALLY BUYINGIS MORE TIME.
TMMC
crumbs By Kait Fowlie | @kaitfowlie
roof, including ChocoSol and Maypole Dairy ice cream
... Stazione Centrale (820 St Clair Ave. W., 416-656-4817,
stazionecentrale.ca) offers casual Italian fare with a train station
theme — think “stop 1” for primi, “stop 2” for secondi, etc.
... Modern Mediterranean eats made with local ingredients
will be the focus at new Danforth destination Four One Seven Restaurant and Lounge (417 Danforth Ave.) ... Devin Connell of Delica Kitchen unites a pair more often seen south of the
border: artisanal doughnuts and fried chicken at Paulette’s Original Donuts and Chicken (913 Queen St. E., 647-748-1177,
paulettesoriginal.com) and no one’s complaining ... New foodie
studio Le Dolci (1006 Dundas St. W., 416-262-3400, ledolci.com,
@ledolci) sweetens up Dundas West with artistic baked goods and
workshops. The former Grateful Head is the new home to owner
Lisa Sanguedolce’s headquarters ... A second Ontario outlet of
the national franchise Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria (386 Bloor
St. W., 647-748-2333, famosa.ca) takes over the former James Joyce Pub to bring wood fired pizza and gelato back to the
Annex ... Self-taught vegan chef Moira Nordholt brings organic,
plant powdered eats to Queen West with Feel Good Guru (917
Queen St. W., 647-748-5800, feelgoodguru.com, @feelgoodguru)
... George Brown graduates Stephen and Mathew Howell put a
gourmet spin on down-home comfort food at The White Brick Kitchen (641 Bloor St. W., 647-347-9188, @thewhitebrick) from
hotcakes to tater tots ... As of June 30, shark fin products will
be set free from all Mississuaga menus. Cheers to that!
... English style pub The Dog and Bear (1100 Queen St. W.,
647-352-8601, dogandbear.ca, @thedogandbear), moves into former
Queen West party spot The Social. Among owners are Kenny Hotz
(of Kenny vs Spenny fame) and Stefan Brogren (of Degrassi Junior
High fame). Expect a menu of creative pub fare and 20 beers on tap
... Derek Grandpre moves in to Lucid Cocktail and Kitchen (571 Queen
St. W., 416-361-6154, lucidck.com, @lucid) and switches the cocktail
menu for an Italian bill of fare. The revamped joint will henceforth
be known as Lucid ... Keep an eye out for new food truck, Rome’n Chariot (416-665-7474, romenchariot.ca, @RomenChariot) which will
dish out authentic Italian sandwiches, pasta and coffee throughout
Toronto and Niagara ... New gastropub The Hogtown Pub and Oysters (633 College St., 416-645-0285, thehogtownpub.com, @HogtownPub)
replaces The Auld Spot Pub. Chef Josh Dalton (Rosewater Supper Club)
serves a rotating menu with a few mainstays — PEI oysters among them
... Paradise Farms Café (678C Sheppard Ave. E., 647-347-4195) opens
to showcase the sustainable meats raised at Caledon’s Paradise Farms
with gourmet sandwiches and burgers ... Senior’s Steak House & Restaurant (1397 Yonge St.) closes its doors June 23 after 51 years of
sating St. Clair’s carnivores ... Retro snack stop Barton Snacks
(15 Barton Ave.) brings together a variety of alt-snacks under one
New and Edible
7Summer 2012
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ROUT & ABOUT By Andrew Brudz
The Story Opening his own restaurant has always been part of the plan for Darcy MacDonell, a seven-year vet of Oliver & Bonacini. Inspired by the family farm in the tiny Eastern Ontario town of Alexandra where he grew up, MacDonell wanted his venture to combine Ontario ingredients with downhome hospitality. The Farmhouse Tavern opened in early June.
The Space The vacancy left by the short-lived June Harlow had the features essential to MacDonell’s vision: a corner lot, a patio and two distinct rooms inside. With interior designer Michelle Mawby, MacDonell created a tribute to his parents. On one side is the tavern—a rowdy, open space—and on the other side, the cozy farmhouse dining room. Pieces of history are are reborn as interior décor—milk cans, aerial shots of the family farm, cowhides, church pews, and a wine press from Niagara winemaker Daniel Lenko.
The Scene Everyone from young families to thirsty locals. They come, they partake, they come again.
The Food Ingredients come from people and places MacDonell knows personally: beer from Beau’s All Natural Brewing in Vankleek Hill, wines from Norman Hardie Winery in Prince Edward County, cheese and duck eggs from Rockwood, and pork from Niagara. Mustard and bacon are homemade, while oysters from Oyster Boy (not so “Ontario,” Mac-Donell admits) are smoked on the patio. For dinner it’s burger, steak, vegan tart, ploughman’s platter and ever-changing summer fare. For brunch, farmhouse pancakes, the popular breakfast bread pudding, eggs benedict, and hand-crushed granola with market honey.
Natural SelectionThe FArmhOUse TAvern bRings RuRal chaRm to the big city
MORE HOT EATS...Hogtown Pub and Oyster something old is new again. The former Auld spot on College street has been repackaged as hogtown Pub and Oyster with an eye to upping the ante on quality pub grub. The menu mixes classics like haddock and chips ($16) with nouvelle fare like smoked chicken and ramp quesadilla ($12). Oysters are $3 a pop; on Thursdays, east coast shells are $1.50 each. A lively sidewalk patio and happy hour specials fit the College street vibe. 633 College St. W., 416-645-0285, thehogtownpub.com, @HogtownPub
Leslieville Pumps This general store and kitchen combo was inspired by brothers Judson and Greg Flom’s passion for southern BBQ, cottage living and competitive gas prices. Yep, this place sells gas and gourmet sandwiches. And the food is the real deal: think hickory smoked chicken, pulled pork, 16-hour smoked brisket dressed with homemade condi-ments and served with sides like fried pickles and corn fritters. They also offer baked goods for those on the run or in need of breakfast 24/7. 929 Queen St. E., 416-465-1313, leslievillepumps.com, @Lpumps
Pancho’s Bakery West end commuters, your subway ride just got a lot sweeter. now you can get churros at Dufferin station! This location marks the third for Adalberto Aguilar and violeta Correa, who started their business just 18 months after emigrating from mexico and wanted to bring the true taste mexican bread to Toronto. sure, the churros is divine, but their conchas (sweet bread with sugar topping), tortas (mexican subs) and 45 other varieties of mexican sweets will rock your world. 1017 Dufferin St., 416-897-9544, ponchosbakery.ca, @Ponchosbakery
By Kait Fowlie and Sanober Motiwala
Farmhouse Tavern1627 Dupont st. 416-561-9114 (Text for reservations)farmhousetavern.tumblr.com
URBAN FARM: Darcy macDonell’s homemade vibe.
Organic Leaders for 28 Years!Natural Food Market • 348 Danforth Ave.416.466.2129 • [email protected] • the_bigcarrotthebigcarrotnaturalfoodmarket
CityBites_Fall2012_1_CityBites 12-06-22 4:25 PM Page 1
8 CityBites
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newsbites By Marc Green drinks
Summer Plantings
2 Great Summer Cocktails
it’s not too late to reap what ye sow
Toronto gardeners are a lucky lot, even with our forced winter hiatus. Not only are temperatures a little higher in the city than in the country, but we also have a significant growing season.
Certain vegetables can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked, as early as April for peas, spinach, onions, carrots and broccoli, to name just a few. Many of these same plants can go in the ground as late as mid-August for harvesting in October, November, and yes, even December.
“Days to Maturity” is a term many seasoned gardeners will be familiar with. It refers to the number of days a vegetable plant takes to grow to a harvest-ready stage. What you’re looking for is a plant with low DTM—and one that can also deal with mid- summer heat, and at the same time transition into cooler temperatures. The list of candidates is impressively long.
Some tomatoes will reach maturity in as little as 60 days—varieties like Early Girl (a great slicer) and Gold Nugget cherry tomato. Planted now, these will be harvest-ready in mid-September. The trick with tomatoes is finding seedlings at this time of year.
When you’re finished with these plants, you may find there’s still time for yet one more round. October is garlic planting time, in advance of next year’s growing season. And lettuces, chard, kale, spinach, arugula, radish and more will flourish in the cooler fall temperatures, especially under the protection of season-extending devices like hoop tunnels and cloches.
Visit the Backyard Urban Farm Co. at bufco.ca.Koshou to Nasithe Japanese name of this cocktail refers to the peppercorn and pears used to make it. the sake provides a soft, silky texture and balances the many intricate flavours of the many ingredients. this cocktail is on the summer menu at Ki Mod-ern Japanese + Bar.
1.5 oz kikusui ‘Fountain of youth’ Junmai Ginjo, niigata1.5 oz Lillet blanc.5 oz Chartreuse.75 oz lime juice.25 oz calpico3 oz fresh pear juice10 pink peppercorns
Muddle 3 pink peppercorns into the lime juice and sake. strain over ice in a collins glass. top with the remainder of ingredients. Garnish with remaining pink peppercorns and asian pear slices.
soca saNgriaWhat better way to break the ice during Carib-bean Carnival Toronto (July 17 to aug. 12) than with a cool, colourful cocktail? the fruit nectar in alizé, a blend of passion fruit and others, is a sure fire ingredient to make any drink taste ex-otic and festive.
slice three fresh mangos and soak in a mixture of 4 oz alizé Gold passion ($24.95, lcBo) and 4 oz off-dry white wine, like fetzer Gewurztra-miner ($11.95, lcBo). chill for one hour. to serve, pour 4 oz into a wine glass and top with 1 oz of ginger beer. Garnish with two ice cubes, a slice of candied ginger and sugar cane stick. serves four. (Kate More)
PRETTY IN PINK the koshou to nasi occupies ki’s patio.
GOLD NUGGET Cherry tomatoes take only 60 days to reach maturity.
suMMEr WatEriNg tiPs
water earLy in morning or evening. avoid watering mid-day as the high heat will evaporate the water quickly and could burn leaves.
water the soiL, not the plant. the roots need water, not the leaves.
water deep to encourage strong root growth.
9Summer 2012
TesTing
Dignify your vegetables.
GREAT RECIPES: PAPERCHEF.COM
Introducing Culinary Parchment cooking and
baking products from PaperChef. A great new way
to treat your vegetables and yourself. The non-stick,
no fuss, no mess way to prepare delicious recipes.
Get more flavour from your food.
HONEYED HEIRLOOM CARROTS EN PAPILLOTE
Spiced spirits are all the rage these day—rums, bourbons, whiskies, even tequilas. Some of these are actually surprisingly good ideas, while others.... well, others are like Dock 57.
It’s not the aroma of this whisky that jars— it’s actually fairly pleasant, evocative of humidors and spice cake and your grandpa’s workshop—but oh, the taste! Sweet like Werther’s caramels, cloying like maple syrup, and oddly enough, not really that spicy.
If you are fond of spirits-as-candies-for-adults, you might enjoy this. But if you’re looking for the taste of Canadian whisky, we suggest you look elsewhere.
We Drink It So You Don’t Have To
WHERE’S THE SPICE? Canadian Club Dock no. 57 spiced Whisky ($25.95/750 mL).
10 CityBites
Books By Kait Fowlie and Dick Snyder
BEERLICIOUS: THE ART OF GRILLIN’ AND CHILLIN’By Ted Reader
Ted Reader’s new book celebrates two summer essentials: beer and grill. Here are 11 chapters of ideas for incorporating beer into appe-tizers, sides, birds, sandwiches and more. Reader thinks beyond the beer can chicken—recipes include crème brulée stout ribs, Guinness pumpernickel bread and Früli strawberry crumble. With tasting and pairing notes by Toronto beer expert Roger Mittag.(Fenn M&S, $29.99)
DEmISTIFyING FOOD FROm FARm TO FORKBy Maurice J. Hladik
This read presents some pertinent food for thought for the conscious eater. Canadian born farmer and academic Maurice Hladik gets to the bottom of food’s most political issues: the 100-mile diet, the organic debate, and the pros and cons of knowing your farmer. Musing starts with the question “What is food?” and extends all the way to Hladik’s predictions for future food movements.(iUniverse, $19.95)
SPOILED ROTTENBy Mary Jackman
Mary Jackman’s fictional tale exposes the dark, passionate and dangerous depths of the restaurant industry. The Queen West restaurant owner — she runs the popular and much-loved Peter Pan—and George Brown lecturer sets the tale among Toronto’s most vibrant foodie ’hoods: Kensington Market, High Park and St. Lawrence Market. A saucy summer read for Toronto foodies. (Dundurn, $11.99)
THE BREWER’S APPRENTICEBy Greg Koch and Matt Allyn
This book is part of Quarry’s “Apprentice” series of instructional tomes. Combining interviews with 18 famous Craft brewers, lavish photography and layout, and a no-nonsense tone that’s both instructive and entertaining, this comprehensive “guide” to the craft of beer brewing is a genuine treat.(Quarry, $27.99)
11Summer 2012
Head to Head By Zoltan Szabo | @zoltanszabo
enjoy A beverAge with endless permutations of style And flAvour
DENSEOntario Spring Water Sake Company Izumi Nigori$12.95 | 300 mL Cloudy, milky appearance. There’s a touch of sweetness here, coupled with a fairly dense texture. Very popular in the brewery’s retail store in The Distillery. ontariosake.com
OPULENTOntario Spring Water Sake Company Izumi Karakuchi Genshu$14.95 | 300 mL The name of the style translates to dry and undiluted; this sake may be the brewery’s best to date. Clean and long—lingering. ontariosake.com
FRAGRANTMurai Family Daiginjo$24.95 | 300 mL This comes from Tohoku in the Aomori prefecture. Peach, menthol and orchard blossoms. Light with a slight oily texture, very good intensity and freshness; the finish is juicy with melon and yogurt notes. LCBO
DISTINCTIVETozai ‘Living Jewel’ Junmai$19.95 | 720 mL Made by Kizakura brewery in Kyoto, this displays aromas of tropical fruits on its bouquet, medium weight with a spicy, muscat tone. Extremely appealing and easy-drinking. LCBO
ROUNDEDTaisetsu ‘Ice Dome’ Junmai Ginjo$12.95 | 300 mL By Takasago Shuzo in Hokkaido, imported by ozawa.ca. Yellow plum, vanilla, toast and wet tobacco nuances on the nose. Full and soft with a pleasant tart edge. LCBO
IMPRESSIVETaketsuru Nikka Whisky Pure Malt 12 Years$69.60 | 660 mL This is a surprisingly great whisky, lightly peaty with dried pear and exotic spice accents, integrated alcohols and a very long, smooth finish. LCBO
Sake to Me
Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. | www.pmacanada.com Please Enjoy Responsibly.
facebook.com/twooceanswines | twitter.com/TwoOceansWines
Our delicious wines are perfect for the BBQ and summer entertaining.
Celebrate Summer with
12 CityBites
Chef Q&A By Sanober Motiwala
Heralded for changing Canadian culture one curry at a time, Chef Vikram Vij of Vancouver was pegged by Anthony Bourdain as a “strange and wonderful mix of idealistic hippy and smart businessman.” Vij says that when he first started in the business, he had a singular goal: to bring awareness of Indian cuisine to the rest of the world by convincing them that it is not all butter chicken and brown curries. Two restaurants, two cookbooks and a frozen food line later, Vij muses about whether the goal has been achieved. We snagged the chef for a few questions during his recent visit to All the Best Fine Foods to promote his frozen food line.
How has your approach to food evolved since you opened Vij’s in 1994? When I first opened the restaurant, I wasn’t confident that
people were ready for a modern take on Indian food. Now 16 years down the road, it’s more about how I continue on this journey because people have accepted [this style of cuisine] in restaurants. There are other restaurants that are opening up that are my style.
How do you feel about copycats? Well, it’s a good thing in one way. If the chef has done the due diligence of working hard in the kitchen and knows the spices well, then decides to open up a modern Indian restaurant, that’s brilliant. On the other hand, if someone just slaps things around on a plate because Indian cuisine is hot right now, that is wrong.
How does the frozen food line relate to your restaurants and cookbooks? Since I cannot
open a restaurant in Toronto and every other city, I am going to bring my food to your home. Growing up in India, my grandmother would make me a little tiffin carrier of daal and vegetables with rice or roti, so that’s what I am tapping into.
What inspires you? I want people to under-stand that Indian food is as complex as any French or Italian or Californian cuisine. So what inspires me is to bring attention to the cuisine that I am so passionately in love with.
What food trends make you cringe? One of the terms that really bothers me is chai tea latte. That’s like saying coffee coffee latte. Chai already means tea with milk and maybe with or without spices. CB
Beyond CurryVancouVer’s legendary VikrAm Vij talks about hip indian cuisine ALL THE BEST VIJ
Chef Vikram Vij with (from left) Sue merry, elena Carson and jane rodmell of All the Best fine foods.
13Summer 2012
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IngredIents By Pamela Cuthbert
13TH STREET WINERY2012 EVENTS CALENDAR
SAVE THE DATE
Jul 20 to 22 - International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration
Jul 21 - Chardonnay Bonne Bouche Luncheon
Aug 25 - Second Annual Blues & BBQ
Sep 8 - Fall Wines Release Party
Sep 21 & 22 - Handmade Market
Dec 1 - Holiday Open House
13TH STREET WINERYBakery - Marketplace
1776 FOURTH AVE. | ST. CATHARINES L2R 6P9 | 905-984-8463
Open Mon. to Sat. 11am to 6pm
13THSTREETWINERY.COM
“How do you do it, you know, legally?”Chef Michael Stadtlander is standing
at the back of a room packed with cooks and food producers at the 2012 Terroir Symposium held in downtown Toronto, asking the question that is on everyone’s mind. For the past hour, our concepts of wild foods have been challenged by the radical stories and tastes that shape the boreal boutique food supplier Société-Orignal. It’s not enough to rhyme off the product list—raw Gaspésie maritime honey, cow parsnip, fermented sea urchin, a potent beer of birch syrup and wild yarrow—but instead to consider how these creations come to market from their native habitats in Quebec.
Alex Cruz, formerly of DNA in Montreal, Cyril Gonzales and Félix Gagné all come from the restaurant business. As Cruz explains, they wanted to find an ethical approach to food production that respects rather than strips natural resources. They founded Société-Orignal and began working with Quebec farming families, regional foragers and chefs. Lately, they supply big names in Montreal, Toronto and now the U.S., including Daniel Boulud, Dan Barber and Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
The session at Terroir started with tasting a sunshine-hued, bracingly clean sunflower oil. Cold-pressed and unprocessed, it’s made from seeds harvested in the fall, then dried in jute sacs on the roof of a barn in the cold of winter. Decanting takes place for three weeks using gravity alone. The pressed residues of the seeds are used in another product, the making of Petit Gros cheese.
“We need to know ‘the why’,” Cruz offers as an introduction to their 70-Brix maple syrup. “Why should we sell syrup like it’s oil, like it’s a commodity?” Cruz continues. “No, we should take the time to understand the land.” Hand-tapped from a small lot of 3,000 trees about 150 years old, the syrup is cooked using the dead wood of the forest and takes 17 hours to reduce, not the 50 minutes common in commercial processing. Oak barrels are nixed—they would interfere with the purity of taste—and the ratio of sap to syrup is 56:1, not the standard of 40:1.
Each item in Société-Orignal’s small selection is a limited edition by nature. There is a brilliant pepper, Piment d’argile, harvested by odour rather than colour. Fermented sea urchin requires an interaction of enzymes with sea lyme grass and goes through phases Cruz likens to a scene out of Narnia. The field mustard grows naturally, like a weed. The honey comes from bees that pollinate on 150 different plants thriving in the wild near the sea— a fusion of sweet and salty in a jar. The Beer Project is an Amerindian Pale Ale (an APA) made with birch syrup instead of water, and wild milfoil and flowering plant called Myrica gale instead of hops. The brew is aged in clay in place of oak. “It’s not a recipe,” says Cruz. “It’s an idea.”
As for Stadtlander’s question, which addresses getting around or working with the government’s health and food regulations, Cruz says philosophically: “It’s the work of a lifetime. Even if you make mistakes, you’re still having fun.” CB
Wild FoodsocIété-orIgnal getS back to the land
BACK TO THE LAND société-orignal’s boreal spring honey and unriped juniper berries.
For a full product list and more info, visit.societe-original.com.
14 CityBites
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Dining Out By Sanober Motiwala
World of FlavoursGlobal influences Make FilipinO cuisine a tasty fusion
Ask a Filipino-Canadian where to get a delicious Filipino meal and the answer is inevitably “at their nanay’s table.” Even so, the near absence of Filipino restaurants in the city is puzzling, considering that Filipinos are the fourth largest visible minority in Toronto.
Diona Joyce, chef-owner of Kanto by Tita Flips, a Filipino food stall outside the Scadding Court Community Centre at Bathurst and Dundas, sheds some light on this mystery: “There are actually quite a few places, but they are mostly take-out places outside the downtown area in grocery stores geared towards Filipinos—so the general public doesn’t know about them.” Joyce ran a successful catering business from home before opening the food stall in March. She was galvanized in part by strangers who’d look up her business address and show up at her doorstep in search of Filipino grub.
Sometimes pegged the ugly sister of Thai food due to its no-frills presentation, Filipino cuisine is a unique and daring fusion of Malay, Chinese, Spanish and American traditions. Rudy Boquila, chef and co-owner of Lamesa, the modern Filipino restaurant that opened in May in The Rosebud’s old location on Queen West, describes it as “meat-heavy comfort food that uses what’s often considered the unwanted parts.” Though he goes on to add that, “really, it’s not as scary… not everything is made out of hearts and eyes.”
If you haven’t tried Filipino cuisine, adobo, the national dish of the Philippines, is an apt introduction. Adopted from 300 years of Spanish rule and adapted to local palates, it’s a stew of chicken or pork in vinegar, sugar and spices. Try Lamesa’s deconstructed adobo ($23), pork belly cured with aromatics, confited over eight hours, and crisp-fried
to order. For a taste of street food, there’s pancit, the Filipino version of Chinese stir-fried noodles. A hearty portion made fresh-to-order at Kanto (palabok, $5) comes with shrimp gravy, chicken, tofu, vegetables, hard- boiled egg and crispy chicharon (pork crackling).
Further west, 80-year-old nurse-turned-grocer Bernard Farrol offers Filipino takeout and snacks at his Parkdale shop, Bernard’s Pilipino Specialities. A pioneer of the Filipino food scene since opening the store in its original Kensington Market location in 1970, Farrol is legendary for his lechon, whole roasted suckling pig, served with a tantalizing sauce that is sweet, salty and tart—all at the same time. Drop by on the weekend for a serving, or order ahead for the whole animal; a 40-pounder will run you about $140. While you’re there, pick up some Filipino pantry essentials like cane vinegar (less acidic than white vinegar) and banana ketchup (you’d never guess it has no tomatoes in it). For serious grocery shopping, head to one of several stores on St. Clair west of Bathurst that cater to the area’s Filipino community.
If you’re up for a little more adventure, try balut, a partially fertilized duck egg served hard-
boiled with some salt or cider vinegar on the side ($2 at Kanto). Generally appreciated “young” (at about 14 days) in North America, it is mostly still egg with some crunch from the forming cartilage. “Stunt” foodies will love it… Kainan na! Let’s eat! CB
Meat-heavy comfort food that uses... the unwanted parts.
Kanto by Tita Flips707 Dundas st. W.416-893-0737kanto.ca, @titaflips
Lamesa Filipino Kitchen669 Queen st. W., 647-346-2377lamesafilipinokitchen.com@LamesaTO
Bernard’s Pilipino Specialities1534 Queen st. W.416-534-3640
STREET NOODLES pancit palabok, a kind of stir-fried noodle, from Kanto by tita Flips.
FiLiPiNO PiONEER parkdale grocer Bernard Farrol.
Spring Fling!
CEW•
Jordan, Ontario, Canada, EarthOrder online for delivery anywhere in Ontario! creeksidewine.com
Serious wines from an irreverent bunch.
Since opening our cellar doors in 1997, we’ve been called a lot of things: bold, innovative, gutsy, obsessive, quirky, unique – even culty, and surely a few things unfit to print. Yet our vision has never wavered and the recognition we’ve earned over the years is a testament to the importance of sticking to your grapes. Cheers!
We love it when folks pay us a visit! Join us this spring at the winery for relaxed and enlightening tastings, and scrumptious weekend lunches served up fresh on the deck. We’re open daily 10 - 6 pm.
Can’t make it to the winery? No sweat! You can find us at your local LCBO.[ [
17Summer 2012
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the summer eating guide
eat, drink and tour your way across ontario
18 CityBites
By Dick Snyder
Four Things You Gotta Do This SummerDine in whiteIf you haven’t heard about Le Diner en Blanc, you may be forgiven. Started in Paris in 1988, is a word-of-mouth dinner party that “pops up” — even guests don’t know where it will be until just before the event. They bring their own food, drink and accessories, and dress in white just to enhance the “look at me” factor. Last year’s event in Paris attracted 15,000 people. To get on the list for Toronto’s Aug. 9 event, visit toronto.dinerenblanc.info.
Drink a lot of charDonnayThe International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration, also known as i4C, hits Niagara July 20 to 22 with more than 55 chardonnay producers from around the world congregating on Niagara for a series of tastings, workshops and parties. You don’t need to know much about chardonnay to participate, just that you like it. Tickets are available for individual events. Visit coolchardonnay.com for info.
get thee to a DistilleryWhile wine and beer get all the hype, Toronto’s nascent craft distilling industry is creeping to the fore. A visit to the Still Waters Distillery in Concord is therefore in order. This gorgeous, modern facility creates small-batch vodka and whiskies and offers tours during normal business hours. You can also buy their products from the onsite store. Visit stillwatersdistillery.com for info.
be hosteD in your own home In the heat of the summer, when you just can’t bear to think of going out and braving the crowds and lines, think about this: catering. Many of Toronto’s finest chefs offer the service and some, like The Tempered Chef (aka, Bertrand Alépée, formerly of Amuse Bouche), are focused entirely on working with you to create a dinner experience like no other. For about the same cost per person as Toronto’s finest restaurants, you can have full control over your experience. In your own backyard! Visit thetemperedchef.com for information.
19Summer 2012
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8 By Kerry Knight
A Taste of Historic Kingston
For those wanting to get out of the city, a visit to Kingston is just the ticket. Whether you take the train along Lake Ontario, or drive the historic Loyalist Parkway, this venerable and picturesque city has so much to offer you’ll want to tuck yourself into one of the several 19th-century inns standing just a stone’s throw from downtown, check out some of the restaurants and hunker down for a lost weekend.
Sydenham Ward, named after Lord Sydenham, the first Governor of the united Canadas, is one of the more historic neighbourhoods. Situated between downtown and Queen’s
University are several restored Victorian mansions and villas that are now beau-tiful, stately inns, and charming B&Bs. The Hochelaga Inn (hochelagainn.com) and Rosemount Inn (rosemountinn.com) on Sydenham Street, and the Frontenac Club (frontenacclubinn.com) and Hotel Belvedere (hotelbelvedere.com) on King Street ,are just a few that are within walking distance of some of the best and most diverse restaurants, markets, bakeries and boutique food stores in Eastern Ontario, all within a square kilometer.
No visit to Kingston would be complete without a visit to Chez Piggy (chezpiggy.com), the livery stable turned restaurant founded by Zal Yanovsky and Rose Richardson in 1979. The menu is dynamic and eclectic, reflecting the many cultures that are represented in the kitchen, the front of house are gracious and professional and the patio is one of the loveliest
you will ever see. Baked goods come from its own bakery and sister restaurant just down the street. Housed in a staid, colonial building, Pan Chancho (panchancho.com) is perfect for a sit-down brunch, a light dinner or a drop in to take away sourdough breads, savoury brioche or chopped chicken liver.
Although Kingston has a stiff British military and Loyalist heritage, it now boasts a vibrant and diverse multicultural com-munity, obvious when you note the variety of cuisine available.
Le Chien Noir (lechiennoir.com) bistro, across the street from the oldest continuous farmer’s market in Ontario, offers classic French farm-to-table comfort food with interesting twists like poutine with shredded duck confit, Quebec triple cream brie and green peppercorn/cognac jus. Or fish tacos with local perch. Or wild New Brunswick sturgeon fillet.
Did I say poutine? If you’re out and about after last call, you have to try Bubba’s (bubba’s.ca) poutine. Can ten thousand hammered Queen students be wrong?
For those seeking a taste of South Asia, check out Curry Delight (curryoriginal.ca). Weais and Ali Afzal opened Curry Village some 27 years ago and are still going strong, having moved into swankier digs overlooking the water, and offering refined and sublime Bangladeshi and Mughlai classics.
Walk up Princess Street and you will come across sushi joints, Greek diners and European delis like The Golden Rooster that rival anything on Roncesvalles. There’s Amadeus Café (amadeuscafe.ca), which specializes in authentic Bavarian and Austrian fare like schnitzels, goulash soup—and they have an awesome selection of German microbrews. And yes, sie sprechen Deutsch.
Before heading back to the Big Smoke, drop into Cooke’s Fine Foods (cookesfinefoods.com) and load up on some house-roasted coffee, imported chocolate or award-winning Canadian cheddar. This beloved gem has remained largely unchanged since it opened in 1865 and has been run by the Cooke family since 1910.
poutine, haute cuisine and everything in between
Frontenac Club
Le Chien Noir
Bubba’s
Pan Chancho
20 CityBites
By Alan McGinty By Dan Donovan
Bubbles and Sunshine
Cava is on a roll and it’s no wonder: you won’t find better quality bubbles at a lower price. It has the familiar feel of a chardonnay sparkler even though it’s made from Spanish grapes you’ve never heard of: macabeu, parellada and xarello. Producers use the same “method traditionelle” as champagne. Chill well and enjoy on a hot summer day.
Fish FinderEriE BEach hotElA step back in time, the Erie Beach Hotel, about 1.5 hours west of Toronto, is an immaculate 1950s style hotel with a flair for cooking fish, and Lake Erie Perch specialty. 19 Walker St., Port Dover, 519-583-1391, eriebeachhotel.com
hEnry’s Fish housEAs unlikely as it seems, this plane- or boat-access only restaurant is a very busy spot. Over the almost 40 years of its history Henry’s has been famous for it’s pickerel—light and flaky, always fresh. For cottagers who can’t get there, Henry’s will send a floatplane to get you and bring you back to your dock (for a fee). A second location in Midland, about two hours north of Toronto, is now open. Frying Pan Island, Sans Souci, Georgian Bay, 705-746-9040 and Doral Marine Resort, Midland, 705-528-1919; henrysfishrestaurant.com
Purdy’s docksidE EatEryThe Purdy family has been fishing the southern basin of Lake Huron for over a hundred years. They are expert fishers with a great respect for the fish they catch. Their Dockside Eatery on the St. Clair River in Point Edward (about 3.5 hours west of Toronto) is a popular spot to enjoy the best fish and chips around. (It’s open from May 18 to Oct. 6; check the website for hours.) Point Edward, Sarnia; purdyfisheries.com, @PurdyFish_Girl
hErBErt FishEriEsWhile visiting Killarney Provincial Park, five to six hours north of Toronto, be sure to stop at Herbert Fisheries and enjoy some fresh-fried local whitefish—light and crispy, served up with fries, a spectacular way to enjoy a treasure of the Great Lakes. Whitefish is a lush, fatty fish that lends itself well to a variety of preparations, and this is certainly a fine one. 21 Channel, Killarney, 705-287-2214
Reprinted and adapted from the Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2012.
From patio to dinner table, CAvA ADDS SPARKLE to any summer gathering
codorniu Brut clasico $12.85 Fresh nose with lemon zest and a hint of ginger. Creamy fizz on the palate, which is dry, lemony and minerally. Lighter bodied and zesty. Stylish label too. (Also 3 x 200 mL bottles for $10.95.) LCBO
sEgura Viudas Brut rEsErVa $14.50 Darker nose with toast notes and a bit of nuttiness, a richer style. Fuller on the palate, with moderate acidity and a gentle mousse. A hint of sweetness. LCBO
castEll d’olErdola Brut caVa $18.95 Fresh nose with lemon rind and a mineral note. Dry and fresh on the palate, though there is a touch of sweetness. The bubbles are tiny and elegant, and there’s lots of light lemon fruit. Very nice… and kosher too! Vintages
Fish Fry Fresh lake fish from Purdy’s.
21Summer 2012
By Konrad Ejbich
Small PleasuresHerewith, the most comprehensive tasting ever conducted in the province of Ontario of marvelous minis (187 mL), magnificent mignonettes (250 mL) and pretty piccolos (200 mL). Perfect for picnics and brief summer sorties. Note: these super-small bottles condemn their contents to a short lifespan, so always buy fresh stock.
WHITESCellier des dauphins, “prestige” nVCôtes du Rhône, France 87 pts | $4.30 | 250 mL According to the agent, it “screams off the shelves” so it’s always fresh. Our samples certainly were. Bright, straw tint with a luscious golden look when swirled. Warm, vinous bouquet reflecting a classic blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Bourbelenc, Picpoul Blanc and Viognier grapes. Terrific aperitif and very food friendly.
hardys stamp series Chardonnay-semillon 2009South Eastern Australia 0 pts | $4.35 | 250 mL Called the “Shuttle” in the trade, this mini comes with a proprietary plastic wineglass/screwcap design. Unfortunately, this wine inside is too old, has completely oxidized, and should be removed from store shelves immediately.
JaCkson-triggs sauVignon BlanC 2010Niagara Peninsula, ON 85 pts | $4.45 | 200 mL Clearly vinous but displays more of its sauvignon character on the palate, rather than on the nose. Time for a vintage change.
REDSCellier des dauphins, “prestige”Côtes du Rhône, France 88 pts | $4.40 | 250 mL Even better than the delicious white. No harvest date appears on the label but a bottling code on the screwcap reveals the vintage in the last two digits. Our bottles were ’11. Bright ruby-cherry hue; lively aromas of black cherry and smoke; clean mouth feel, vibrant acidity and a fresh finish of ripe cherry and oak. Drink within a year of purchase.
hardys stamp series shiraz-CaBernet 2011South Eastern Australia 87 pts | $4.45 | 250 mL Light ruby-garnet colour and certainly more healthy-looking than its white twin. First whiff seems a tad clinical but the high-pitched brambleberry flavour soon blooms into lush notes of raspberry and black currant in vanilla cream. The taste is balanced on the tart side to bring out its flavours at 35,000 feet as well as tableside.
domaines du soleil, Fat Bastard shiraz 2010France 87 pts | $4.85 | 250 mL Like its big brother, this “baby” Bastard has a spicy, dark berry character with rich, smooth flavours and a pleasant, mildly bitter finish.
JaCkson-triggs, “proprierors’ reserVe” meritage 2008Niagara Peninsula, ON 86 pts | $4.45 | 200 mL Inky dark garnet with a lighter, rusty colour along the rim. Strong hints of black cherry and black berry backed by herbaceous and savoury flavours. A wellmade wine from a weaker vintage.
SpaRklERSCodorniu Brut ClasiCo nVPénédes, Spain 88 pts | $10.95 | 3x200 mL Pale straw coloured with a clean bread-yeast bouquet; lemon-fresh taste with hints of pear and toast. Delicious.
martini & rossi, asti nVPiedmont, Italy 90 pts | $4.45 | 200 mL This is the world’s best-known sparkling moscato and it delivers as promised. Inviting fruit-salad nose and juicy-sweet taste with a luscious finish that tempts you to have another glass. Full of yummy-yum.
Freixenet Cordon negro nVPénédes, Spain 87 pts | $4.45 | 200 mL Pale straw coloured with bouquet of fresh baked pastries; lemony and tart with a hint of pear-like flavours.
henkell troCken piCColo nVGermany 86 pts | $10.95 | 3x200 mL Straw colour with a candied fruit aroma; tart and zippy, with ripe candy apple flavours and a clean short finish.
santa Julia unoChile 88 pts | $14.95 | 4x187 mL Sparkling wine with honeyed fruit flavours. Straw-gold; bubbles foam up and subside quickly. Lightly-honeyed nose with mouth filling flavours of fresh and baked apple.
zonin, proseCCoVeneto, Italy 88 pts | $12.95 | 3x200 mL Straw hue with a very fine foam; vinous bouquet with hints of apple and candied peach; fresh as apple cider with a twist of lemon.
FaR-OuT WInE BEvERagEFresitaChile+Patagonia 89 pts | $4.95 | 200 mL Wow! This blend of Chilean white wine and Argentine strawberries makes for a delightful sip and it’s only 8% alc./vol. Perfect for a sultry afternoon, sipped straight from a well-chilled bottle, through a pair of coloured straws or, pinky in position, from an expensive Reidel champagne flute.
Pack a mini when just a little dose will do ya
tiny Winey delicious, convenient, affordable.
ROSHAN416 391 0334 / 1800 263 2995 EXT 2664 [email protected]
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22 CityBites
By Kait Fowlie
Ten Great Summer Beers
Black creek Brewery rifleman’s ration$3.95 | 500 mL
A nod to the 200th anniversary of the War of 1812, this brown ale is brewed using Black Creek’s signature 1860’s technique and recipe. Best sipped at room temp alongside a steak or bison burger.
lakes of muskoka cottage Brewery summer weiss$6.45 | 750 mL
A thirst quencher with notes of banana and bubblegum, this naturally hazy wheat beer is designed for summer sipping. About a pint and a half’s worth comes in a swingtop bottle, making it perfect for outdoor sharing.
creemore kellerBier$2.80 | 473 mL
Brewed in the same tradition as the German “cellar beer” of the middle ages, Creemore’s newest addition to the team is an amber pilsner with a summery hint of citrus. A surefire BBQ crowd pleaser, it makes a great team with sausages.
great lakes orange Peel ale$4.95 | 650 mL
One of Great Lakes’ distinct seasonal beers, this fresh brew is infused with subtle orange and honey flavours and balanced with five different hops. Pair it with grilled salmon and a citrusy salsa.
trafalgar cherry ale$4.50 | 650 mL
As far as fruit beers go, this ale is a flavour bomb. Infused with fresh cherries, it’s subtle and earthy rather than cloyingly sweet. It pours a sassy ruby colour and makes a great pair with fruity summer desserts (beer ice cream floats anyone?).
cameron’s Brewing rPa$16.50 | 6 x 341 mL
Rye is the unique grain that pumps up the character in this pale ale. If you’re an IPA fan, give this complex, peppery, gently hopped brew a try. And no, it doesn’t taste like pumpernickel. (Available at brewery.)
old credit Brewing Pale Pilsner$3.25 | 680 mL
Old Credit’s brews are all ice aged for up to three weeks, so you can be sure they’ll be cold to the core. This pilsner—crisp, light, with subtle notes of apple—is plain Jane perfection. Pair it with tapas and seafood.
Beau’s summer seasonal festivale$4.35 | 600 mL
This German style altibier was designed to be enjoyed at outdoor summer festivals. Amber in colour with a caramel sweetness, it makes a great team with nutty cheeses. Perfect for an antipastio picnic. Crack one and celebrate.
neustadt the sour kraut$2.70 | 473 mL
A light lager soured with fresh raspberries, this beer was “designed for ladies,” but the Neustadt crew let men drink it too. Serve it to the non-beer drinkers in your gang as a gateway brew—they’ll be converted in no time. (Available at brewery.)
Black oak summer saison$13.75 | 6 x 341 mL
Wheat, orange zest, and coriander come together in chuggable thirst quencher of an ale. Highly carbonated and hazy orange in hue, it makes a great addition to citrusy DIY beer cocktails. (Available at brewery.)
23Summer 2012
By Kait Fowlie By Sanober Motiwala
While away in Windsor
It’s Canada’s southernmost city. The place where Michiganders party before their 21st birthdays. This was once the glorious centre of the Canadian auto industry, and the city worst hit by the recent recession. It was a stomping ground for Capone in the 1920s. You can tour the basement where he and The Purple Gang organized their activities during Prohibition, while sampling the Canadian Club whisky that quenched their thirst. Whether en route south of the border or taking a detour from nearby Essex wine country, a jaunt in Windsor offers a few surprises.
saturday >> 3 p.m.History Lesson & Whisky tastingTake the 90-minute tour ($6) of the Canadian Club Brand Centre, which includes the story of how the distillery got started in 1858, its popularity with American bootleggers in the 1920s, and the whisky production process. The tour ends with a tasting of several styles of Canadian Club whisky, described as “lighter than scotch, smoother than bourbon.” 2072 Riverside Drive E.,
519-973-9503, canadianclubwhisky.com
saturday >> 6 p.m.award Winning southern BarbequeThey don’t take reservations and have been known to run out of ribs as early as 8 p.m. So arrive early at smoke and spice and check your Weight Watchers points calculator at the door. The St. Louis ribs (People’s Choice winner at Windsor Ribfest 2011) are the star here. Try a third of a rack with smoked chicken wings, two sides, and a selection of signature sauces ($18.95). For sides, we recommend the mac ’n’ cheese (fondly referred to as crack ‘n’ cheese by the regulars) and collard greens.7470 Tecumseh Rd. E., 519-252-4999,
smokenspice.com, @SmokenSpice
saturday >> 9 p.m.NightlifeThe main downtown drag of Ouellette Avenue between Riverside and Wyandotte has a concentration of bars and night-clubs offering something for everyone, whether you’re in the mood for a low-key pint at the Honest Lawyer or feel like gyrating to Top 40 at the Boom Boom Room.Honest Lawyer, 300 Ouellette Ave.,
519-977-0599, honestlawyer.com;
Boom Boom room, 315 Ouellette Ave.,
boomboomroom.ca, 519-971-0000,
@BoomBoomRoom
suNday >> 2 a.m.after party snackIf you hanker for some grub to soak up the juice at the end of the night, shawarma palace should hit the spot. (See devout following of UofWindsor students in lineup.) Don’t expect any frills but do expect tender shavings of beef or chicken off the rotating spit, wrapped in a pita with toum (garlic sauce) and all the regular fixings ($5 incl. tax on weekends).276 Ouellette Ave, 519-254-7531
suNday >> 11 a.m.Italian donuts & Outdoor artStop by Italia Bakery in Little Italy for an espresso and cartocci, a deep-fried donut stuffed with ricotta and chocolate chips and rolled in cinnamon sugar ($2.89). Fresh breads and assorted pastries are available for takeout, along with a selection of imported Italian products like bucatini and tomato sauces. Breakfast in hand, stroll through the Odette Sculpture Park overlooking the Detroit River and featuring 31 large-scale sculptures. For a more concentrated dose of art, pop into nearby Art Gallery of Windsor gratis, courtesy of Caesars Casino and other corporate sponsors. Italia Bakery, 571 Erie St. E., 519-252-7066;
art Gallery of Windsor, 401 Riverside
Dr. W., 519-977-0013, agw.ca, @A_G_W
Capone liked it—why shouldn’t you?
SUMMER BEER EVENTS GUIDEBreWers BaCkyardJuly 1, Aug. 12, Sept. 23, Noon to 4 p.m.designed to make drinkers feel like they’re hanging out in the brewer’s backyard, this event takes the beer garden to the next level. With these one-off ontario brews and local food vendors, you’ll have everything you need to camp out at the picturesque Brick Works all afternoon. evergreen Brick Works, 550 Bayview Ave. Free. brewersbackyard.ca
tOrONtO’s FestIvaL OF BeerJuly 27 to 29immerse yourself in a weekend extravaganza of local food vendors, drinking tunes from the main stage, and a ton of beer. 35,000 thirsty enthusiasts attend every year. tap into the joy of seven different brand experience areas and, new this year, a world of beer pavilion. Bandshell park, 200 Princes’ Blvd. $38.50. beerfestival.ca
Queer Beer FestIvaLJuly 26, 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.When the enthusiasm from the pride tent at the Festival of Beer was enough to make up a festival in itself, the festival’s creators happily obliged with saucy headliners, gourmet eats, and 200+ interna-tional brands of beer. Bandshell park, 200 Princes’ Blvd. $38.50. queerbeerfestival.ca
tHe stOp’s Beer GardeNSundays, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.this chill neighborhood beer garden event offers a chance to sample a different local brewer and eats by a local vendor each week. on tap for the rest of summer: Muskoka Brewery, Steam Whistle, Flying Monkey and lake of Bays. proceeds go to the Stop Community Food Center. the stop’s Green Barn, 601 Christie St., Barn #4. Free (drink/food tickets on site). thestopsbeergarden.wordpress.com
Hart HOuse CraFt Beer FestAug. 2, 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.Historic Hart House’s one night celebration of stellar ontario craft beer may leave attendees at risk of never being satisfied by cheap keg swill ever again. admis-sion gets you eight beer samples and unlimited BBQ fare by chef. Hart House Quad, 7 Hart House Circle. $35; $30 student. harthouse.ca/culture/craftbeerfestival
Cask NIGHt at tHe CamerON BreWeryJuly 26, Aug. 30, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.Cameron’s signature monthly night draws out a devoted crowd for a ceremonial cask tapping, a selection of local fare and a tour of the brewery. the Cameron’s crew make great hosts. Cameron’s Brewing, 1165 Invicta Dr., Oakville. $20. cameronsbrewing.com
prOjeCt X at tHe Great Lakes BreWeryJuly 12, Aug. 9, 6:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.this series features a sampling of beer-themed eats and a one off experimental cask ale from the brewers of the city’s most distinctive seasonal beers. the Great Lakes Brewery, 30 Queen Elizabeth Blvd., Etobicoke. $10. greatlakesbeer.com
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By Kate More
A County Tour Who ever said you need frills to be fancy? Standing on a mud-rug in a Prince Edward County tasting room, surrounded by hoodies and rain boots, I took a sip from my flute, and never felt fancier.
In Prince Edward County, aka the “County” and properly pronounced “cow-knee,” winemakers are no-nonsense hosts. Forget glammed-up visitor centres — expect to stand next to a fermentation tank, get viticulture lesson from a man who may not have showered yet, and to be poured a superb glass by the wine-maker himself.
The large island of Prince Edward is just two and a half hours from Toronto. A flourishing wine region, its appeal also lies in 800 km of sandy beach coastline. The local Sandbanks Vacations (1-877-
399-2508, sandbanksvacations.com,
@SBVinPEC) offers impressive rental pro- perties, including affordable water-front cottages, not to mention wine country tours.
Our weekend getaway started on a Friday evening when we pulled up to our rental cottage at 21 East in Wellington. We celebrated the country air with a beer on the dock and strolled to East and Main Bistro (270 Main Street, Wellington; 613-399-5420,
eastandmain.ca, @eastandmain), a romantic spot up the street. The following night we dined at nearby sister restaurant Pomodoro (280 Main Street, Wellington; 613-399-5909, pomodoropec.ca,
@pomodoropec), an Italian Trattoria where we were treated to an inspired meal by culinary wizard and former Enoteca Sociale chef Matt de Mille.
On Saturday, we set out on our Sandbanks Vacations wine tour. Post-breakfast at the Tall Poppy Cafe, (298 Wellington Main St.,
Wellington; 613-399-2233, tallpoppycafe.ca, @tallpoppycafe) we hit the road with Craig, our entertaining guide and driver. We popped into Del Gatto Estates (3633 County Road 8,
Picton; 613-476-8198, del-gattoestates.ca) where Heidi Del Gatto introduced us to her husband’s zippy hybrid varietals, including Frontenac Gris and St. Croix. At County Cider (657
Bongards Crossroad, Waupoos; 613-476-1022, countycider.com,
@CountyCider) we refreshed with a delightful splash of Prince Edward County Ice Cider.
Lunch took us to the Claramount Inn and Spa (97 Bridge
St., Picton; 613-476-2709, claramountinn.com, @Claramount) overlooking Picton Bay, a colonial revival mansion with seven main rooms and a spa with decadent treatments such the signature Chocolate Truffle and Champagne Wrap.
In the afternoon, we drove up to a sign with a name I recognized: Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard (1152
Greer Rd., Wellington; 613-399-5297,
normanhardie.com, @normhardie). Hardie’s wines represent, for some, the very best of Ontario wine-making. “Coming from an old school palate, my first experience with Prince Edward County wines were those of Norman Hardie,” says Chris MacNeil, sommelier for Toronto’s Cosmopolitan and Pantages Hotel. “I feel the care such producers take from vine to barrel resembles a cross between young Burgundy and aged California; these wines are complex and will excite the palates of young and explorative wine drinkers alike.”
And no wonder: one swig of the Cuvee L Pinot Noir 2009, and I went away to my happy place in Côte de Nuits. Norm’s wine tasted like sun-baked raspberries
on a cool, wet stone. I took a couple bottles home.At Harwood Estate Vineyards (18908 Loyalist Parkway,
Hillier; 613-399-1631, harwoodestatevineyards.com,
@SunnyHarwoodPEC) we relished their intriguing wines, namely the 2009 St. Laurent, and drank full glasses (they’re licensed to fill you up) inside Harwood’s silver, solar-powered winery. Then, at Karlo Estates (561 Danforth Rd., Wellington; 613-399-3000,
karloestates.com, @KarloEstates) we sampled the unique character of Richard Karlo’s 2010 Chardonnay, aged in barrels made with a mix of cherry, hickory, oak and ash, all grown in Prince Edward County. The Van Alstine’s White Port is interesting, a delicious dessert wine made from estate-grown Frontenac Gris and gewurztraminer.
The Hinterland Wine Company (1258 Closson Rd., Hillier;
613-921-7003, hinterlandwine.com, @HinterlandWine), our final stop, makes highly regarded sparkling wine. After tasting their line-up of bubblies, all I can say is,“believe the hype.” Their 2008 Les Etoiles Method Traditional is a jaw-dropper!
Leaving the County, we determined that, while not every glass was top-notch, greater satisfaction came from discovering the unique character in County wine—an unmistakable “zip” on the palate. The sensation is like an exclamation point of youth, acidity and great potential, shouting to my palate, “here I am!” Not fancy, not showy, just confident and full of life—just like Prince Edward County. CB
SoaKing up the wine Scene in Prince edward county
Wine TouringVisit winecountryontario.ca for routes, maps and suggestions for touring ontario’s many wine attractions.
THE HINTErlaND WINE Co. faMIly Jonas newman and Vicki Samaras (and little ones).
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Brain FreezeAs kids we screamed for it, and as adults we try to resist it. But no matter where you are in the city, there’s a place that will tempt you into the point of submission. With ice cream and gelato spots popping up in every nabe, here are some of our favourites to get you through the hot summer.
Ed’s REal scoopsingle scoop: $3.71For 12 years, Ed’s has had the East End ice cream market cornered, and for good reason. Amazing homemade flavours like Crème Brulée, Maple Bacon… Crunch! and French Mint have spawned two local favourite destination spots. They’ve now expanded to include chocolate-covered, house-made sponge toffee, Oreos dipped in Callebaut dark chocolate, fudge, and ice cream cupcakes. 920 Queen St. E., 416-406-2525 and 2224 Queen St. E.,
416-699-6100, edsrealscoop.com
BoREal gElato company single scoop: $2.75While gelato is synonymous with Italy, owner Melanie Clancy decided to make it a Canadian treat too by creating small batches with (mostly) local ingredients. She works with small farmers and co-ops to bring the best stuff to your cone. Interesting takes on classics like Lemon Olive Oil Sorbetto and Vanilla Bergamot. Bonus: 3 a.m. closing on Friday and Saturday nights (that’s Parkdale for ya!).1312 Queen St. W., 647-352-7717, borealgelato.ca
BakERBots Baking sandwich: $5.50 (halves available)Roseanne Pezelli claims she doesn’t know about her bakery’s cult following, but people can’t stop talking about that ice cream sandwich on Delaware, made with baked-fresh- everyday cookies (Including Everything, Pirate Peanut Butter and Ginger Molasses) and a selection of in-house ice creams, along with some supplies from Ed’s, Greg’s and Gelato Fresco. 205 Delaware Ave., 416-901-3500, bakerbotsbaking.com
summER’s icE cREam single scoop: $3.67After 28 years of making ice cream in the back of their store, the Tokey family hasn’t lost their sense of humour. Owner Ron uses local dairy for the ice cream, sorbet and frozen yogurt, and seasonal ingredients, including the quirky Toronto Pothole, made with almonds, marshmallows, peanuts, chocolate chunks, road tar and gravel.101 Yorkville Ave., 416-944-2637, summersicecream.com
hotEl gElato 3 oz cup: $3.75The two-year-old bakery, café and gelateria makes products catering to people with dietary restrictions. While they have contemporary flavours such as Salted Caramel, they also carry gelato that is vegan, sugar-free, gluten-free, low dairy, dairy-free and soy-based. “Every time I go to make gelato, I feel like I’m magically transported,” Hoffman says. “You get five minutes of that childhood enjoyment factor. That is what keeps us going.” 532 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-932-2663, hotelgelato.com
g foR gElato single scoop: $3.50When Giuseppina Polsinelli left Sora, Italy, in 1966 for Toronto, she also left behind a gelato business she started with her husband. Now, three of her five daughters, along with Shawn Whelan, are back in the family business. “We always talked about it romantically, but then we decided to really go for it,” Whelan says. That includes heading to Bologna to attend Gelato University. Now they serve up classic flavours like Pistachio and Nocciola made fresh daily.75 Jarvis St., 416-792-1761, gforgelato.com
gREg’s icE cREam single scoop: $3.67Greg Mahon has tried countless flavours in his 30 years in the business, some wacky and some vanilla (ha!), but it was his Roasted Marshmallow that really put him on the map. Legend has it he actually roasts them over a campfire out back. Other long-running contenders are the Japanese Green Tea and Malt Ball Crunch, but with over 100 flavours in rotation, there is something for everyone.750 Spadina Ave., 416-962-4734, gregsicecream.com
A selection of summer sweet spots
26 CityBites
By Dick Snyder
Outdoor Gear
The venerable cutler Victorinox—most famously known as purveyors of the ubiquitous Swiss Army Knife—has opened its first North American flagship store on Bloor Street. While they carry everything from timepieces to clothing to luggage, we’re drawn to the beautiful and practical accessories for enjoying the great outdoors (and eating it, of course).
Camping Set $44
Burger Spatula $44
Beach Towel $95 (with water resistant backing)
Daypacker knife $32
www.bwwines.com | 416.531.5553
TRY THESE THREE WINES:
YALUMBA Y SERIES RIESLING
LCBO#: 212753 | $15.05
YALUMBA Y SERIES SHIRAZ VIOGNIER
LCBO#: 624494 | $15.05
THE LUCKY COUNTRY SHIRAZ
LCBO#: 145276 | $15.85
ALL AVAILABLE AT THE LCBOPicnic essentials from Victorinox
Victorinox Swiss Army Flagship Store95A Bloor St. W.416-929-9889
28 CityBites
Indian Restaurant and Wine Bar
Take Out and Delivery1522 Bayview Ave. Toronto
416-486-4899 www.kamasutraindianrestaurant.com
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experts: szabo on Wine By John Szabo MS | @johnszabo
Most wine pros are happy to defer to the house sommelier when dining out, since no one should know more about the list. And by asking the right questions and providing some information, you’ll increase your chances of a great wine experience. Here are some tips:
Tip #1: Don’t be afraid to talk priceMany people still feel shy about discussing cost, especially in front of guests. But don’t be, you’ll help the sommelier out immensely. A well-trained sommelier won’t directly ask how much you want to spend (there are more subtle ways of finding out, such as recommending wines at different price points, then waiting to see which you’re drawn too). You’re in the driver’s seat, and there’s nothing shameful about saying how much you’re willing to spend.
Tip #2: Give as much information as possibleIt’s obvious, but the more you can share about what you like, the more likely you are to get it. Even something as basic as
“I prefer red to white” is at least a starting point. If there’s a certain wine style you don’t enjoy, make sure you say so. All of this is critical information to help the sommelier pick what’s right for you.
Tip #3: Or, tell the server what you usually drinkThe trouble with #2 is that many diners are intimidated by the technical terminology that experts fling about, and rather than risk looking philistine, they say nothing. If you’re in this boat, don’t struggle, just tell the sommelier what you like to drink. It can be as detailed as a specific producer, or as broad as the name of a grape or a country. A good sommelier will interpret this info—that’s the job—and guide you in the right direction. If you get a puzzled look, time to ask for the real sommelier.
Tip #4: Ask your sommelier what they’re most excited aboutIf your sommelier looks competent and enthusiastic, ask about his/her latest discoveries. Nothing makes a sommelier happier than talking about what they love. It also raises your esteem in their eyes (i.e., you’re not just another pinot grigio-guzzling savage). This is your chance for a little free education, and you might just find something new that wouldn’t have ordered on your own. But be careful: If the sommelier jumps straight to the most expensive bottle, it’s time to re-take control and lay down some firm price guidelines.
Tip #5: Ask your sommelier to pair wines to your foodLike tip #4 above, giving the sommelier a chance to dazzle with his/her wine knowledge and ability to make perfect pairings increases your odds of a great experience. Since the goal is too impress you, everything will be done to make that happen, including recommending the best values on the list, giving a free education on food and wine compatibility, and maybe even opening bottles that aren’t usually available by the glass. CB
How to Train Your Sommelier
JOhn SzAbO MS prefers his wine straight up and natural, and tweets @johnszabo. Looking for the best wine buying club in ontario? Check out sommelierservice.com
You’re in the driver’s seat, and there’s nothing shameful about saying how much you’re willing to spend.
Warning signs it’s not always easy to spot the incompetent server or the mercenary out to up-sell you at all costs, but here are a couple of red flags:
1. the server talks without listening
2. the server only recommends one wine
3. the server is making stuff up
Five tips for a superlative wine-and-food experience
29Summer 2012
experts: Living on the veg By Kait Fowlie | @kaitfowlie
Like red wines, ales tend to pair well with robust foods. More often than not, that means burgers, roasts and chicken. As a die-hard ale fan and vegetarian—current obsession: Railway City’s Dead Elephant IPA. Ironic? Perhaps—I often find myself sipping full-bodied brews with a meatless meal that doesn’t quite match up.
Enter Castro’s Lounge on Queen East, where one of the city’s most extensive beer lists meets an entirely vegetarian menu.
This tiny Beaches gem serves creative veggie pub fare alongside local craft brews with four cask hand pumps, including Black Oak, F&M Brewing and the Granite. Just some of the 13 beers on tap are beer cognoscenti favourites: Fruli, Delerium
Tremens and King Pilsner. The bottle and can menu stocks 110+ selections and there is a rotating specialty bottle selection menu every month.
How on earth does such a mighty beer selection not pummel the plant-based menu into total obscurity? I chatted with cellarman and cask master Chris Schryer
to find out. Schryer, a vegetarian himself, explains that the bold flavours on the menu will not only stand up to brawny brews, but are enhanced by them. (Read more of Schryer’s beer musings at torontobeerblog.com.)
“One of the awesome pairings is the jerk tofu rice bowls with the Great Lakes Devil’s Pale Ale. It’s just phenomenal,” says Schryer. “There’s so much hops and so much pop from the alcohol and it really can hold up the jerk sauce, which is obviously fairly hot. There’s not a lot that can carry a jerk sauce and do it justice. The way [head chef] Sanjee [Thiru] has worked it is awesome.”
You won’t find any limp lettuce or lame lentils around here—Castro’s menu showcases world flavours like South Indian-style cashew curry, a Tandoori tofu burrito and a hot pepper and pineapple quesadilla. The dishes are derived from cuisines that don’t necessarily need to rely on animal products for depth of flavour—they achieve it through the use of creamy nuts, aromatic spices and slow marinating and cooking techniques.
Castro’s kitchen went veg for practical reasons: the tiny kitchen just isn’t conducive to roasting and deep-frying, and a lot of the staff and clientele are vegetarian. “We thought, why don’t we create something that hasn’t been done in this part of the neighborhood? So we chopped down the menu to a really simple, quality vegetarian menu,” says
Schryer. This gives the joint a certain edge on the Beaches strip; they’ve created a space where they can do one thing really well.
And there’s a lineup out the door for it most summer nights, so it must be working. Top off the satisfying eats and stellar beer menu and with a steady rotation of rockabilly and bluegrass music every night, and this east- end haunt is a worthy rest stop for any urban explorer. CB
A Hopping Veg Lounge
How on earth does such a mighty beer selection not pummel the plant-based menu into total obscurity?
Emphasis on beer and pLant-based foods appEals to locals
www.oxfordfresh.com
Get out of town!. Bring your coolerand fi ll it with fresh, healthy, local food.Surprises await you in Oxford County.
“Please scan this QR code to check our
video’s”
“follow us onFacebook and Twitter”
1-866-801-7368
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kait fowlie is a freelance writer living in toronto. she enjoys dive bars and park picnics. she also makes a mean vegan cornbread. Check out her living on the Veg blog at citybitestoronto.tumblr.com.
Castro’s Lounge2116e Queen st. e.416-699-8272castroslounge.com
tHat PoUR MaNanthony greene, co-owner of Castro’s Lounge.
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experts: Fishmongering By Dan Donovan | @hookedinc
In North America, salmon is the ubiquitous fish of choice. Be it canned for lunches, poached on airline plates or broiled at weddings, salmon is the protein people turn to when they want “not meat.” Why not? Salmon has great qualities: a mild flavour that’s not fishy, few bones and a rich supply of nutrients. Salmon is easy to cook; it can be poached, steamed, baked or grilled on the BBQ—all with great results—and it is inexpensive.
Nutritionally, salmon is high in the oily Omega 3 fats DHA and EPA, which are associated with improved heart health and with early brain development in children.
There are two types of wild salmon—Atlantic and Pacific—with the Pacific divided into five key species: Chinook, Sockeye, Silver, Pink and Chum. All salmon are anadromous—they live most of their lives in the oceans and one day inexplicably answer a biological call to return thousands of miles to the exact spot in a freshwater stream where they were born, to spawn or lay their eggs.
Back when the rivers of eastern North America and Europe teemed with wild fish, Atlantic salmon was the fish of kings. Sport fishers and commercial
fishers alike enjoyed the bounty until commercial fishing vessels found the spot in the North Atlantic where all the salmon spent their time at sea. Intense unregulated fishing pressure followed at the same time that environmental pollution was rampant and rivers were being dammed, preventing the return of the salmon. By the late 1960s, Atlantic salmon was commercially extinct. On the Pacific coast, returns have been drastically reduced from historical levels, but the fishing industry remains well managed.
During this time, Norway had begun successfully raising Atlantic salmon in
farms, and aquaculture exploded. Today, over 3 billion pounds are raised annually, mainly in Canada and Chile. By comparison, only one in four salmon sold is wild Pacific Salmon.
The well known health benefits of salmon are balanced against concerns of contamination from PCB and methyl mercury, persistent organic pollutants that exist in both wild and farmed fish. Generally PCBs are lower in wild fish, and mercury is lower in wild Alaskan or in farmed Chilean fish. All farmed fish have the added concerns of antibiotics and
pesticides like emamectin benzoate, used to control sea lice and not tested for by regulators.
Organic labels offer little comfort as there is currently no enforced standard for such claims. Open-water farms also raise environmental concerns that have to do with the positioning of cages, escapes of non-native fish, the spread of parasites and the fouling of the water by crowding. The preferred method of farm-raising fish— in land-based tanks where there is no risk of contaminating wild populations—is slowly taking hold, but so far it cannot produce salmon at the low prices that grocers seek.
Both farmed and wild salmon have their place; the real choice is between cheap salmon and more expensive salmon that reflects the cost of responsible farm-raising or honours its relative scarcity as a wild resource. CB
Wild or Farmed?Which salmon iS beSt for plate anD planet?
dan donovan is a graduate of the stratford chef school and a veteran of the toronto restaurant scene. he and his wife Kristin run hooKeD (hookedinc.ca), toronto’s only seafood retailer 100% committed to sustainability.
Back when the rivers of eastern North America and Europe teemed with wild fish, Atlantic salmon was the fish of kings.
THE REaL THInG truly wild pacific salmon is a rare treat.
31Summer 2012
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Ah, summertime: carefree indulgence, exposed flesh and lithe young things frolicking in the grass. Well, not for me. My summer satiation with anything 18-years old will come from a snifter of Springbank on the patio.
Although, come to think of it, I have been indulging in the exposed flesh of lithe young things that frolic in the grass: I’ve been eating young goats. The meat of a young goat is excellent food. Unfortunately, for some reason the idea makes many people squeamish, and so its local availability is somewhat limited.
Get over it, I say. If you like lamb, you’ll probably like goat; you may even prefer it. Indeed, the goat I’ve been eating is some of the finest local meat I’ve had the pleasure to consume.
At its best, the meat of a young goat is like a mild version of lamb; it’s sort of like merging lamb with veal. The flavour is clean and distinct yet not without delicacy. The texture, especially in the choice cuts, is relatively lean yet tender and finely grained.
It is usually butchered and cooked the same way as lamb: rack and loin for roasting or chops on the grill, rear haunch and leg (H-bone removed and the meat tied) for a grand roast, shoulder for chops or stew (a classic for curry), and fore-shanks for braising. As for the trim, goat meat makes a surprisingly brilliant burger,
so much so that you may wish to sacrifice foreshank and shoulder to the cause.
Goats are more difficult to raise than sheep, mostly because they are stubborn, ornery little critters. Farmers are therefore encouraged to leave them to their own
devices, herding them into the barn only for the winter. As such, their very nature encourages a natural, pasture-raised product.
I’ve been buying my goat at Sausage King in the St. Lawrence Market. Sausage King, once one of the market’s more easily ignored vendors, is now an obligatory stop. That’s because it was purchased last September by the esteemed Rosedale butcher, Olliffe, itself acquired in 2009 by former chef, Ben Gundy, and his brothers.
Ben has assembled an excellent team, and his entry into the St. Lawrence Market represents the first positive development in that institution in a very long time, especially in the meat department; of the several butchers there, at least three could vanish without so much as a whimper of regret in culinary circles.
The market’s dusty stagnation may explain why Sausage King is no longer carrying the goat on a regular basis. Turns out that another food writer and I were
pretty much the only customers. What does it say when one of the city’s
finest butchers is unable to dispose of one small delicious goat per week at National Geographic’s so-called “best market in the world”? It seems to suggest that Toronto’s foodie establishment doesn’t agree with National Geographic, and they would be right. I still shop at the market every week but see a need for a serious upgrade.
Fortunately, you can also still get yours through Sausage King. You must order the whole animal and they will beautifully break it down. The cost would be some-where in the neighbourhood of $250. Well worth it for the burgers alone. CB
Get Your Goat
At its best, the meat of a young goat is like a mild version of lamb; it’s sort of like merging lamb with veal.
the people who say young goat’s delicious aren’t kiddinG around
When not eating, drinking, or writing about eating and drinking, stephen temkin makes fedoras, some of which can be seen at leondrexler.com.reach him at [email protected].
it’s GOAt time ornery but delicious, and unfortunately hard to find.
32 CityBites
experts: the ej By Konrad Ejbich | @WineZone
It’s rare to get a private member’s bill passed in the House of Commons. Most die on the vine, so to speak, but politicians on all sides of the House of Commons toasted Bill C-311.
A rookie MP from the government side, Dan Albas (Okanagan-Coquihalla) presented the bill, titled An Act to amend the Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act (interprovincial importation of wine for personal use). It’s intended to reverse an antiquated law, dating back to 1928, which makes it an offence for consumers to purchase wine in one province and then transport it across into another.
Last month, the bill passed third reading in the House of Commons, and just two weeks later it received an official stamp of approval from the Senate. Royal Assent is a mere a pen-stroke away.
Here’s what the passage of this law will mean for you and me:
A Montrealer visiting Long Dog Winery in Prince Edward County has not been permitted to buy James Lahti’s terrific chardonnay or pinot noir to add to her home wine cellar, and the winery could
not legally ship it there for her. However, tourists from other countries faced no restrictions whatsoever.
Winemakers like Daniel Lenko in Beamsville, Ont., and Sandra Oldfield in the Okanagan Valley, have pointed out that it’s easier to buy a gun online from Alberta or Saskatchewan than it is to buy a bottle of Benjamin Bridge bubbly from Nova Scotia and have it shipped out of province.
Once approved, Albas’ bill would decriminalize cross-border purchases of up to a case of wine, provided that it’s for personal use. Torontonians visiting another province will be able to bring back as much as one nine-litre case of wine, plus four standard bottles of booze and up to six cases of beer, cider, hard lemonade or wine coolers.
Liquor boards do not like the bill at all. These revenue-generating crown corpor-ations exist for one purpose: to generate more revenue. To ensure a smooth transition of your cash to their pockets, liquor boards regulate sales and engage in tactics that restrict competition within provincial borders.
The result, regrettably, has been that Canadians are mostly unfamiliar with wines produced outside their own province. Since the major wine-producing provinces are Ontario and British Columbia, they have the most to lose and are consequently highly protectionist and controlling.
There is no question the passage of this
bill into law will be good news for con- sumers. The restrictions on inter-provincial wine sales have been a farce for wine lovers across the land.
However, not all the walls have come crumbling down. The law does not cover online sales, which means it’s still unclear whether I’ll be allowed to order my favourite B.C. wines through the company web site and have them shipped to me in Toronto. And wineries continue to be restricted from selling directly to licensees in other provinces. That means a couple who moved from B.C. to Ontario are not allowed to celebrate their wedding with a few cases of bubbly from the Okanagan. It means a winemaker in Niagara can’t sell to a hotel in Calgary. And it means caterers and event planners will continue to be restricted to selecting wines produced in their home provinces.
Only in Canada you say? Pity. CB
Minor Victory
Buying consignment wines from an agent is easy. Go online and get their list. Phone or email your order. Wait for delivery. Repeat.How to Buy Wine from an Agent
B&W Wines416-531-5553 www.bwwines.com
B&W Wines offers a portfolio of iconic and boutique wineries: Penley Estate, Lillypilly, Two Hands and Jansz from OZ; Darioush and La Crema in California; Argentinean Bodegas Weinert; Barolos from Brovia, Rhone-Ranger Jean-Luc Colombo and Douro producer Quinta de Ventolezo.
Lifford Wine Agency416-440-4101 or toll-free 1-877-272-1720 www.LiffordWine.com
2010 Winner - VINTAGES Portfolio Award of Excellence Serving the hospitality sector and private consumers in Ontario since 1985 with a focus on family owned and operated wineries that are equally as passionate about great wine as we are. Cakebread Cellars, Maison Louis Jadot, Felton Road, Felsina and Hollick, to name just a few.
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The restrictions on inter-provincial wine sales have been a farce for wine lovers across the land.
Konrad Ejbich answers caller questions on CBC radio’s Ontario today the last Friday of every month. he is a member of the Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada and a prolific tweeter.
Bill C-311 promises only to challenge the old system
bLaM bLaM it’s easier to buy a gun online than to order wine and have it shipped from another province.
33Summer 2012
experts: libations By Stephen Beaumont | @BeaumontDrinks
You don’t need to be a beverage genius to know that cider is more popular than ever this summer. Just look at the LCBO listings, all 28 of them, including the flavoured and iced varieties. Hell, even Beppi in The Globe and Mail has written about them!
Problem is, for someone like me who prefers his cider as dry as British wit, even 28 possibilities don’t offer a whole lot of choice. Ontarians, it would seem on the basis of what’s available, like their alcoholic apple juice fruity and sweet.
This conclusion I arrived at after partaking in a blind tasting of ten ciders, nine sold singly in tall boy cans and one bottled in six-packs. Once finished, I felt like I’d ingested more glucose and fructose and sugar than I had in the preceding six months combined.
Let’s start with the sweetest offenders. With an ingredient list that includes sugar, apple juice concentrate and “flavour (apple),” Somersby was by far the most candied and cloying of the lot, while Keith’s Original Cider (“cider, water, sucrose,” among other ingredients) and Magners (“cider, sugar”) weren’t
that far behind. There is no ingredient list on the Seagram Cider can, just the declaration that it is made with “real Canadian apples,” but it also has a significant sweetness, albeit in more of an unfermented apple juice-like character than the rest.
In the middle tier of sweetness were Strongbow (“fermented apple juice & glucose syrup, water, sugar”) and Growers 1927 (“water, cider, glucose-fructose, apple concentrate”), along with the slightly drier and all-apple Blackthorn. The last, made from “English cider apples,” according to the can, had almost a demi-sec sparkling wine character, which for me at least indicated a giant step in the right direction.
Two of my three favourites were devoid of a list of ingredients on their
labels, which I take to mean they are made from only apples. Dukes Cider from Tree Brewing in B.C. is still leaning to the sweet side by my standards, especially in its sugary nose, but I suspect would be plenty dry and refreshing for most Ontario drinkers. Ontario’s own Thornbury, on the other hand, has a
notably sweet start, but is redeemed by a tangy, green apple finish that sweeps the sugar from the palate.
My personal favourite, however, was a cider entirely new to me, with an ingredient list that includes only “cider made from organic apples, carbon dioxide.” Called simply William, it hails from Québec and boasts an effervescence slightly higher than the rest, as well as a much drier character and a restrained, although undoubtedly pure, apple flavour. Finally, a cider I can keep in the fridge for when the mercury soars. CB
The Summer of Cider
For someone like me who prefers his cider as dry as British wit, even 28 possibilities at the LCBO don’t offer a whole lot of choice.
There’s a whole loT of really sweet juice ouT There
Stephen Beaumont’s World Atlas of Beer (co-authored with tim webb) will appear in bookstores this fall. He’ll be anticipating its arrival all summer long on twitter at @BeaumontDrinks.
Quebec-made william premium cider is certi-fied organic and lower in sugar than much of the competition. $2.75/473 ml can.
34 CityBites
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One last bite By Dick Snyder | @citybites
Bring on the Night Market
Let’s face it, we’re enjoying a glut of food fairs, festivals, tastings, pop ups and what nots — some are great, most are good and a few are a pain in the pork butt. But when The Stop Community Food Centre puts on a gourmet party, you know it’s gonna get done right. This June 20 takeover of Honest Ed’s Alley at Bloor and Bathurst sold out in just a few days, at $50 a pop for an embarrassment of goodies. Best of all, it wasn’t crowded, the lineups were manageable (sometimes non-existent), and the vibe was pure deliciousness. Some great discoveries to be had, including a preview of Paulette’s new donut concept, as well as tasty treats from Woodlot, Delica Kitchen, The Bellevue, The Tempered Chef and Cowbell. And many more too numerous to mention. You know who you are!
the stOp’s all-you-can-eat fundraiser was an alley-full of fun
Support The Stop!Donate now at thestop.org.
the bellevue.
the tempered Chef. paulette’s.
thanks for coming! Woodlot.
WINE on the WILD SIDE
the magic as nature intended
SAVE $2.00 NOW $10.95
WAKA WAKA Sauvignon Blanc
LCBO #0266494 750 mLOffer valid from June 24th until July 21st.Price subject to change without notice.Please drink responsibly.
48xxx_WakaWaka_ad_V1.pdf 1 12-06-27 4:22 PM
Win a Long Weekend for Two in Berlin!
Visit a participating restaurant to enjoy a glass of German Riesling this summer to enter for a chance to win
For more info visit
www.31daysgermanriesling.ca
Toronto• Canoe Restaurant & Bar• Cowbell Restaurant • Foxley Bistro • Jump Restaurant • Luma • Midfield Wine Bar & Tavern• Sarah’s Cafe & Bar • The Oxley
Cambridge• Blackshop Restaurant & Wine Bar
Elora• Cork
Kitchener• Charcoal Steak House• The Bauer Kitchen
Ottawa• Juniper Kitchen & Wine Bar
Stratford• Bijou Restaurant
Waterloo• Sole’ Restaurant and Wine Bar• Wildcraft Grill & Bar
Win a Long Weekend for Two in Berlin!
Visit a participating restaurant to enjoy a glass of German Riesling this summer to enter for a chance to win
For more info visit
www.31daysgermanriesling.ca
Toronto• Canoe Restaurant & Bar• Cowbell Restaurant • Foxley Bistro • Jump Restaurant • Luma • Midfield Wine Bar & Tavern• Sarah’s Cafe & Bar • The Oxley
Cambridge• Blackshop Restaurant & Wine Bar
Elora• Cork
Kitchener• Charcoal Steak House• The Bauer Kitchen
Ottawa• Juniper Kitchen & Wine Bar
Stratford• Bijou Restaurant
Waterloo• Sole’ Restaurant and Wine Bar• Wildcraft Grill & Bar
