Hair conditioner

Colloids CE 457/527

Juan Carlos Alva Nieto

Ken-Tye Yong

Anthony Rivers

What is hair conditioner?

• To restore hair to its natural state

• Undo damage by giving better look

• Containing cationic surfactants in combination with long chain fatty alcohol and other lipid components.

• leave the hair to be soft, shiny and manageable

Hair conditioner as consumer product

Safety concern

• Toxicity

• Eyes injuries

• Irritation to the skin

Colorants

• Visual appealing

Preservation of consumer products

• Microbial contamination

• Spread of disease

Hair composition

• Morphological• Cortex,

• Cuticle,

• Medulla.

• Intercellular cement

• Chemical• 19 proteins:

– Cystine

– Keratin

– Glutamic acid.

– Leucine, etc.

Interactions of surfactants and polymer with hair

Three main types of interactions:

• Primary valence bonds (ionic and covalent bonds)

• Polar interactions (Hydrogen bonds)

• Dispersion forces (van der waals attractions)

Emulsions

• Emulsion• Mixture liquid / liquid• Surfactant / amphiphilic.• “Water in oil” W/O or “Oil in

Water” O/W.

Oil in Water

O/W.

Water in Oil

W/O

• Microemulsion• Spontaneous formation.

• Thermod stability.

• High solubilization capacity.

• Clear appearance.

Microemulsions and foams

• Microemulsions• Liquid / liquid.

• Stability– Second surfactant.

– Proteins, glucosoides, lipoids, sterols.

– Size bubble.

• Foams • Liquid / gas.

• Micronic layer

• Microscopic bubbles.

• Stability – Second surfactant.

– Viscosity / liquid.

– Proteins (Saponin, etc)

Reconstructer

– Water-based • Microemulsion

• Foam.

– Solubilized proteins and amino acids.• Rebuilding blocks, -hair components-.

• Carry and deposit in the hair surface.

– Benefits.– Flexibility.

– Repair damage.

– Reduction in splits ends.

Formulation

– Hair conditioner composition

Anionic emulsifiers Glycerol stearate 1.5 % Wt

Cetyl alcohol 3 % Wt

Lubricant additives Stearyl dimethicone 4 % Wt

Humectants Glycerin 1.5 % Wt

Propylene glycol 1.5 % Wt

Preservatives Metyl paraben 0.30 % Wt

Carrier Deionized water 87 % Wt

Fragance   Not established.

Formulation

– Reconstructer composition

Hydrolyzed proteins

Keratin, hydrogenated soy, yeast, wheat germ glycerides.

Amino acids Cystine, aspartic acid, lauryl glutamate.

Biological additives

Casein, beer, eggs, nettle extract, etc.

Other Vitamins B-12, Inositol, Paba, and Iron.

Adsorption

• How the reconstructer works?• Attachment of the hair conditioner – fundamental.

• Adsorption is very important. (large species).

• Low enough molecular weight proteins

• Penetrate and reconstruct hair fibers.

Detanglers

Objectives and purpose• Removes tangles from hair • Straighten curly and wavy hair • Able to last for a long period• Improve the texture of hair • Easier to comb• Imparts and glass like shine to hair

Ingredients used in detanglers

De-ionized water (94.6 % wt)

1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) (2.5 % wt)

Glycerin (humectants) (0.5 % wt)

Stearalkonium chloride (cationic surfactant) (1.5 % wt)

Citrus acid (acidifiers) (0.4% wt)

Colorants (0.2 % wt)

Fragrance (oil) (0.3 % wt)

Functions of ingredients

Stearalkonium chloride (Cationic surfactants)

• Positively changed nitrogen atom

• allowed the cationic group to attach negatively charged surfaces

• Neutralized the electrostatic charges on the hair

1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant)

• Act as solubilizers

• To form better microemulsion

• Thermodynamically stable system

Functions of ingredients

Glycerin (humectants)

• Attracted to water

• Penetrate the cuticle

• Stabilize the moisture content within the hair shaft

• Soften and swell dry brittle hair

Citrus acid (acidifiers)

• Dissolve the soap residue on the hair

• eliminate greasy, sticking feeling caused by dirt

Making procedure

• Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W)

• Dissolve water-soluble ingredients. – 60% water

– Heat & Stirring.

• Dissolve oil-soluble ingredients.– Heat / melt solids.

• Keep stirring -10 / 15 min-.

• Add the remained water.

• Cool, add preservative and fragrance.

• Adjust pH and viscosity.

Packaging reconstructers.

• Bottle. • Used for the microemulsion.

• Pump finger foamer.• Instant foaming action (foam).• Mixture liquid/air • No chemical propellant• PET• Easy to operate

Ingredients in Moisturizer

• deionized water 79.03 %• hetoxide G-26 3.0 %• Methyl Paraben .15 %• disodium EDTA .10 %• Hest CSO 10.0 %• Hetol G 2.5 %• Hetol CA 1.5 %• Hetamid MA 1.0 %

Ingredients Continued

• Glyceryl Stearate .70 %• Hetoxamate SA-100 .70 %• Cocoa Butter .50 %• Hest MS .50 %• Hetsorb L-20 .20 %• Propyl Paraben .05 %• Kathon CG .07 %• Glycerol - thickening agent

Production Machinery

Process Diagram

Colloidal Attributes

• Thickness– Makes hair thicker, fuller looking

• Ability to stay in hair – Some conditioners you can leave in all day

• Stability

Design Considerations

• Make hair soft/manageable – Gives it that shine

• Make hairs all lay the same way – Makes hair look smooth

• Seals cuticle layer – Prevents frizzing

• Prevent split ends

Surfactants used in Moisturizer

• Ability to form micelle

• Hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts

• Form cross link

Marketing Considerations

• Labeling – Tells active ingredients

• Commercials– Shows results of using product

• Different needs for different hairs– Sum need more moisture– Some for dyed, color treated hairs

Packaging

• Materials used – Post consumer recycled plastics– Make containers soft, squeezable