FASH 15 textiles

aesthetic finishes

aesthetic finishes

aesthetic finishes change the appearance and/or hand of fabrics

applied to a fabric with express purpose of altering some visual, textural, hand or other aesthetic dimension of the fabric—sometimes AKA surface design

•additive finishes—finishing chemical added to fabric to produce texture, luster, embossed designs and abrasion resistance•subtractive finishes—something removed from fabric during finishing

aesthetic finishes—luster

luster finishes produce a change in a fabric’s light reflectance

glazeda friction calendar produces a highly glazed surface•chintz•polished cotton

aesthetic finishes—luster

ciresimilar to a glazed finish, except metal roll is hot to produce greater luster

aesthetic finishes—luster

plasticized finishvery thin layer of polymer added to dyed fabric

moirehave wood grain or watermarked appearance; used for somewhat formal looks in apparel & interiors

aesthetic finishes—luster

schreinerhave softer luster than most other luster finishes—uses schreiner calendar which has a metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal line per inch

aesthetic finishes—luster

embossedcreated using an embossing calendar that produces either flat or raised designs on fabric

aesthetic finishes—drape

drape finishes change the way a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D shape

transparent & crispproduced by treatment with sulfuric acid in cotton fabrics; subtractive—called parchmentizing•lawn parchmentized to create organdy

aesthetic finishes—drape

burned-outproduced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different generic fibers—one fiber dissolves, leaving sheer areas

aesthetic finishes—drape

sizingfabric immersed in mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine and softeners to add or control fabric body

weightingmetallic salt or plant-based compounds used to add weight and body to apparel fabric

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

embossedsome have 3D raised or designed pattern

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

pleatedmade using a variation of embossing—• pattern paper (hand)—produces wider variety of

pleated designs • machine process—blades pleat fabric as

inserted between two heated rolls

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

puckered surfacecreated by partially dissolving the surface of a nylon or polyester fabric

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

plisseconverted from either lawn or print-cloth gray goods by printing an alkali, sodium hydroxide, onto the apparel fabric in the form of stripes or designs

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

flockedfine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been produced—can be localized or all over

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

embroidereddecorated by hand or by machine with a surface-applied thread

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

expanded foamcolored compound printed on fabric expands during processing to give 3D texture to fabric

shearedpile or napped fabric in which the surface has been cut to remove loose fiber or yarn ends, knots or similar irregularities or surface flaws

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

brushedafter shearing, fabric is usually brushed to clean off fiber ends

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

nappedlayer of fiber ends raised from the ground weave of a the fabric by mechanical brushing action

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

crepeingspecial compacting process to produce a fabric with a soft hand—can create an all over texture or localized plisse effect

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

fulledimproves appearance, hand, thickness, softness, body & cover of wool fabrics for apparel & upholstery

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

beetledfabric revolves slowly over wooden drum and is pounded with wooden hammer until yarn is flattened into an oval, not round, cross section

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

coronizedprocess for heat setting, dyeing and finishing glass fiber in one continuous operation

emerizing, sueding or sanding process used on fine silk-like fabrics; fabrics moved over two or more rollers with fine emery paper on the first roll and coarser paper on the second

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

abrasive, chemical or enzyme washes

abrasive wash—pumice or other abrasive material saturated with a chemical and tumbled with fabric or garment

chemical wash—chemicals partially destroy fiber & create irregularities; include alkalis, oxidizing agents, bleaches, etc…

enzyme wash—similar to chemical wash except uses cellulase (enzyme) to dissolve part of cellulose material

aesthetic finishes—texture & hand

silk boil-offremoves sericin and creates a looser, more mobile fabric structure

caustic treatmentcreates synthetic apparel fabric with hand and texture like silk—caustic soda dissolves 5-18% of fabric

hand builderscompounds such as silicone softeners and cellulase enzyme that soften fabric hand

http://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_8/u_8_2.html

participation activity:aesthetic finish identification

…using your complete textile sample workbook, identify a fabric in the collection for each of the finishes discussed in class today

…this can also help you to complete your textile sample book