FASH 15 textiles

special-purpose finishes

special-purpose finishes

•AKA functional finishes•chemical finishes applied to fabrics to enhance performance and specific end uses•add to product cost & value•may be invisible or beyond consumer perception•many topical some wet processed in order to facilitate absorption of finish into fiber

stabilization—shrinkage control

fabric is stable when retains original size & shape during use and care

relaxation shrinkage—occurs during washing, steam pressing or dry cleaning; most occurs during first care cycle

progressive shrinkage—continues at smaller rates for several additional care cycles•cotton, flax, lyocell & HWM rayon exhibit relaxation shrinkage•regular rayon exhibits high relaxation shrinkage & moderate progressive shrinkage•wool exhibits moderate relaxation shrinkage & high progressive shrinkage•other properly set MF exhibit relaxation shrinkage & no progressive shrinkage

stabilization—shrinkage controlrelaxation shrinkage finishes

knit fabrics shrink due to stitch elongation during manufacture—return to normal size during laundering•minimized by overfeeding fabric between sets of rollers to induce lengthwise shrinkage; loop drying; heat setting of thermo-plastic fibers

woven fabrics shrink when wetting relaxes strain of manufacture—most noticeable in filling direction•compressive shrinkage used to maximize shrinkage

stabilization—shrinkage controlprogressive shrinkage finishes

thermoplastic fibers—stabilized by heat setting; when properly set, have no progressive shrinkage & little relaxation shrinkage

wool fibers—•surface coating—polyamide solution enables fibers to move back and forth without entangling; controls shrinkage, pilling & fuzzing•halogenation—chlorine partially dissolves scales and reduces felting shrinkage

rayon fibers—resins reduce fiber swelling & make it resistant to distortion

shape-retention finishes

durable press—items that retain shape and pressed appearance even after many uses, washings & tumble dryings; applied before or after fabric has cured

durable press wool—achieved with combination resin treatments to impart durable-press characteristics & control excessive shrinkage

durable-press silk—polycarboxylic acid used to keep silk from wrinkling easily when wet; cuts down on strength, adds stiffness & decreases whiteness

appearance-retention finishes

soil- and stain-release—reduce degree of soiling of fabric by repelling soil or preventing formation of bonds between soil & fabric; mechanically or chemically bonded to surface—organic silicone or fluorocarbon substances

abrasion-resistant—thermoplastic acrylic resins that fix fibers more firmly into yarns so they don’t break off as readily

antislip—used on low-count, smooth-surface woven fabrics & some sheer, open knits to prevent movement of yarns within fabric

appearance-retention finishes

fume-fading-resistant—used on dye-fiber combinations that are susceptible to fading when exposed to atmospheric fumes or pollutants

surface or back coatings—used on back of fabrics to: •reduce heat transfer•alter fabric appearance•lock yarns in place•control porosity•minimize air & water permeability

appearance-retention finishes

light-stabilizing—apply light-stabilizing or ultraviolet-absorbing compounds to fabrics to minimize damage from light exposure

pilling-resistant—minimize the formation of tiny balls of fiber bits on a fabric’s surface

anti-yellowing—prevents nitrogen oxides from vehicle exhaust from combining with BHT in plastic wrap that fabric is generally stored in

comfort-related finishes

water-repellent finishes—resists wetting; depends upon surface tension & fabric penetrability; generally calendared & then chemically applied

waterproof fabric—will not wet regardless of length & force of exposure to water

moisture management finishes—remove sweat from skin’s surface & help cool body

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXLPnD2w0P8

comfort-related finishes

porosity-control—used to limit penetration of fabric by air

water-absorbent—increase moisture absorbency of fabric & its drying timehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ns4mnmNBk1Y

ultra-violet absorbent—incorporate chemical compoundsor nanoparticles that absorb energy in UV region of electromagnetic spectrum

comfort-related finishes

antistatic—•controlled with humidity in natural-fiber fabrics•with thermoplastic fibers controlled by:• improving surface conductivity• attracting water molecules• neutralizing electrostatic charge

fabric softeners—improve hand of harsh textiles

phase-change finishes—minimize heat flow through a fabric—insulate against temperature extremes

biological-control finishes

insect- and moth-control—AKA fumigants, insecticides, insect-repellent moth control usually by chemical (Permethrin) at scouring or dyeing stageinsect control methods:•cold storage—decreases insect activity; museum use, generally not practical for consumer•odors—mothballs; poison and should be used with caution•stomach poisons—fluorides & silicofluorides used for dry-cleanable wool•contact poisons—such as DDT; very effective but banned in US•chemical additives—in dye bath permanently alter fiber; make it unpalatable by larvae; may yellow or cause color loss

biological-control finishes

rot-proof—used primarily on technical products used outdoors to improve durability & longevity

antimicrobial—leachable (not bonded to fiber)nonleachable (bonded to fiber or used as additives)•inhibit growth of microbes•reduce or prevent odor•prevent decay and damage from perspiration•control spread of disease•reduce risk of infection after injury

biological-control finishes

microencapsulated—smart textile finish that incorporates a water-soluble or other material in a tiny capsule form—may contain fragrance, insect repellents, disinfectants, cleaning agents, cooling/warming chemicals, lotions, oils to relieve stress, deodorants, activated charcoal, etc…

safety-related finishes

fire retardance—resistance to combustion of a material when tested under specified conditions

flame resistance—property of a material whereby flaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibited by following application of a flaming or nonflaming source of ignition, with or without subsequent removal of ignition source

flammability—characteristics of material that pertain to its relative ease of ignition and relative ability to sustain combustion

flame-retardant finishes—•function in variety of ways: block flame’s access or extinguish flame•can be durable or non-durable•less expensive than flame-resistant fibers

safety-related finishes

liquid-barrier—protect wearer from liquids penetrating through fabric—important to health care professionals, agricultural & chemical workers

light-reflecting—used on fabrics to increase visibility of wearers in low-light conditions

participation activity:special-purpose finishes

…using the text & internet as your resources, research one of the special-purpose finishes that we have discussed in class today, one that is of particular interest to you…summarize how the finish is created, applied or integrated into the fabric and what the particular reasoning for that finish is…elaborate upon what has been covered in class