Week 14 Aesthetic Finishes

7/30/2019 Week 14 Aesthetic Finishes

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FASH 15 textiles

aesthetic finishes


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aesthetic finishes

aesthetic finishes change the

appearance and/or hand of fabrics

applied to a fabric with expresspurpose of altering some visual,

textural, hand or other aestheticdimension of the fabricsometimesAKA surface design

additive finishesfinishing chemicaladded to fabric to produce texture,luster, embossed designs and abrasionresistancesubtractive finishessomethingremoved from fabric during finishing


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aesthetic finishesluster

luster finishes produce a change in afabrics light reflectance

glazed

a friction calendar produces a highlyglazed surfacechintzpolished cotton


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ciresimilar to a glazed finish, exceptmetal roll is hot to produce greaterluster


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plasticized finishvery thin layer of polymer added todyed fabric

moirehave wood grain or watermarkedappearance; used for somewhatformal looks in apparel & interiors


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schreinerhave softer luster than most otherluster finishesuses schreinercalendar which has a metal roller

engraved with 200-300 fine diagonalline per inch


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embossedcreated using an embossing calendarthat produces either flat or raiseddesigns on fabric


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aesthetic finishesdrape

drape finishes change the way afabric falls or hangs over a 3D shape

transparent & crisp

produced by treatment with sulfuricacid in cotton fabrics; subtractivecalled parchmentizinglawn parchmentized to create

organdy


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burned-outproduced by printing a chemicalsolvent on a blend fabric made ofdifferent generic fibersone fiber

dissolves, leaving sheer areas


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sizingfabric immersed in mixturecontaining waxes, oils, glycerine andsofteners to add or control fabric

body

weightingmetallic salt or plant-based

compounds used to add weight andbody to apparel fabric


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aesthetic finishestexture &hand

embossedsome have 3D raised or designedpattern


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pleatedmade using a variation of embossing

pattern paper (hand)produceswider variety of pleated designs

machine processblades pleatfabric as inserted between two

heated rolls


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puckered surfacecreated by partially dissolving thesurface of a nylon or polyester fabric


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plisseconverted from either lawn or print-cloth gray goods by printing an alkali,

sodium hydroxide, onto the apparelfabric in the form of stripes ordesigns


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flockedfine natural or synthetic surface fiberis applied after a base fabric has

been producedcan be localized orall over


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embroidereddecorated by hand or by machinewith a surface-applied thread


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expanded foamcolored compound printed on fabricexpands during processing to give 3Dtexture to fabric

shearedpile or napped fabric in which thesurface has been cut to remove loose

fiber or yarn ends, knots or similarirregularities or surface flaws


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brushedafter shearing, fabric is usuallybrushed to clean off fiber ends


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aesthetic finishestexture &handnappedlayer of fiber ends raised from theground weave of a the fabric bymechanical brushing action


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crepeingspecial compacting process toproduce a fabric with a soft hand

can create an all over texture orlocalized plisse effect


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fulledimproves appearance, hand,thickness, softness, body & cover of

wool fabrics for apparel & upholstery


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beetledfabric revolves slowly over woodendrum and is pounded with wooden

hammer until yarn is flattened intoan oval, not round, cross section


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coronizedprocess for heat setting, dyeing andfinishing glass fiber in one continuous

operation

emerizing, sueding or sandingprocess used on fine silk-like fabrics;

fabrics moved over two or morerollers with fine emery paper on thefirst roll and coarser paper on thesecond


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abrasive, chemical or enzymewashes

abrasive washpumice or other

abrasive material saturated with achemical and tumbled with fabric orgarment

chemical washchemicals partiallydestroy fiber & create irregularities;include alkalis, oxidizing agents,bleaches, etc

enzyme washsimilar to chemical


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silk boil-offremoves sericin and creates a looser,more mobile fabric structure

caustic treatmentcreates synthetic apparel fabric withhand and texture like silkcaustic

soda dissolves 5-18% of fabrichand builderscompounds such as silicone softenersand cellulase enzyme that softenfabric handhttp://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_8/u_8_2.html
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participation activity:aesthetic finish identification

using your complete textile sampleworkbook, identify a fabric in thecollection for each of the finishes

discussed in class todaythis can also help you to completeyour textile sample book

Documents

Week 14 Aesthetic Finishes