STRUCTURE&ANALYSIS

BRIJESH KUMAR BAJPAITEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

BATCH - 2010GOVT.POLYTECHNICE KANPUR

208024

DEDICATED TO MY REVERRED GURUMR.ANUP CHATURVEDI

CONTENTS

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1. WOVEN DESIGN FUNDAMENTALS

2. PLAIN WEAVES

3. TWILL WEAVES

4. HONEY COMB & CREPE WEAVES

5. HUCK A BACK & MOCK LENO WEAVES

6. SOME ONE AREA’S MAKING WEAVES

7. IMPORTANT DETAIL OF VARIOUS WEAVES

FABRIC STRUCTURE &ANALYSIS

SYLLABUS2

INTRODUCTION:

Introduction to fabric structure. Explanation of woven structure and other fabric structure. e.x. knitted ,non-woven ,bonded etc.

I. Definition of warp and weft. Ends and picks determination of warp and weft in a given fabric design. Repeat of a design, draft, peg plan and denting order.

II. Types of drafts used in the manufacture of the fabric.III. Construction of plain weave on graph paper. Relation to draft,

design and peg plan. IV. Construction of plain weave and it is derivation in the form of

simple matt and ribbed structure.V. Variegated hopsack or matt weave design with warp and weft face

reversible effects.VI. Ornamentation of plain fabric by different method

TWILL WEAVE:

Construction of twill weave and their classification under the following heads.

I. Continuous regular twill.II. Pointed twill.

III. Combined twill.IV. Rearranged twill.V. Broken twill.

VI. Fancy twill.ANALYSIS OF FABRICS:

I. Analysis of a fabric and its objects. Confirmation of warp and weft and determination of weaving particulars from the given sample of a fabric.

II. Procedure for transferring the interlacement of ends and picks on graph paper for obtaining the design of the given sample of the fabric

SATIN WEAVE:

Characteristics and use of satin and sateen weave. Construction of regular and irregular satin and sateen.

Design:

Construction of the following design on graph paper along with their draft, peg plan, denting order and weaving particular.

I. Diamond and diaper weave on pointed draft and herringbone draft.II. Crepe weave by different method and their Characteristics.

III. Simple honeycomb, brighton honeycomb, huck-a-back weave.IV. Mockleno weave.

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FABRIC TAUGHT:

Cloth setting & cloth gemotry. Analysis of the fabric taught. Calculations of fabric weigh.

MISCELLENEOUS WEAVE:

Design of following wave only .

I. Sponge weaves.II. Devon huck.

III. Barley corn.IV. Stitched hop-sack.V. Twilled hop-sack.

DRAFT

PEG PLAN

WEAVE

1 CHEPTER WOVEN DESIGN FUNDAMENTALS

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INTRODUCTION:-

A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads. These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design.

CLASSIFICATION OF WOVEN STRUCTURE:-

Woven structures are classified into the following categories Simple structures- In case of simple structures, there is only one series of warp and weft threads. These threads interlace with one another perpendicularlyCompound structures- In case of compound structures, there may be more than one series threads, of which one set forms the body or ground and the other forms the figuring or ornamentation. METHOD OF WEAVE:-

A weave is the interlacing pattern of the warp and weft. Two kinds of interlacing are possible:(i) Warp over weft(ii) Warp under weftThere are two practical methods of weave representation: Linear- In the linear method each warp thread is represented by a vertical line and each weft thread by a horizontal lineCanvas- In the canvas method, a squared paper is employed, on which each vertical space represents a warp thread and each horizontal space represents a weft thread.

WEAVE REPEAT (MINIMUM REPEAT):-

The repeat of a weave is a quantitative expression of any given weave. It is shown by covering minimum area on graph paper in which a complete pattern of design is completed.

ELEMENT OF WOVEN DESIGN:-

The three basic elements in a woven design are: Design- The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of the design. the unit of woven design in the point of intersection of a warp and weft.

Draft or drawing plan- A draft indicate the no. of heald used to produce a given design and the order in which the warp ends are threaded through the mail eye of the heald. The choice of the type of drafting plan depends upon the type of fabric woven.

Peg or lifting plan- The peg or lifting plan provides useful information to the weaver. It defines the select no. of heald is be raised or lowered on each successively insert no. of heald.

FABRIC CLASSIFICATION:-

WOVEN:- These fabric are formed by interlacing of 2 series of threads. i.e. warp and weft these may further divided its(1)simple (2)compound (3)gauge & leno (4)pile or plush.

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NON WOVEN:- These fabric are formed by bonding me chemically or chemically fibers in sheet form they also termed as geo textile. Fibers are interlocked but there is no interlacement as in woven fabric.

KNITTED:- These fabric are formed by loop formation of single thread i.e. Wales and pique.

TYPES OF DRAFT:- The various drafts are classified as follows:(i) Straight (ii) Pointed(iii) Skip and sateen(iv) Broken(v) Divided(vi) Grouped(vii) Curved(viii) Combination

STRIGHT DRAFT:-

This is the most commonly used draft. It is the simplest of all the types of draft plans. In this kind of draft the drafting order progresses successively from first to the last heald frame.

SKIP DRAFT:-

The skip draft is suitable for weaving fabrics having heavy warp thread density. In this kind of draft plan the number of heald frames may be twice or more than the minimum required for a weave.

POINTED DRAFT:- This is similar to a straight draft. It is suitable for weaves such as pointed twill, diamond weaves and ordinary types of honeycombs.

BROKEN DRAFT:-

A broken draft almost resembles the pointed draft. However the pointed effect is broken. This type of draft is suitable for weaves such as herringbone twills. DIVIDED DRAFT:-

This draft is used for weaves having two series of warp threads such as terry, double cloth, warp backed cloth etc.

GROUPED DRAFT:-

These drafts are employed for the production of stripe and check designs, in which the stripes have different weaves or their combinations. This draft is used for producing the fabric with two different stripes.

COMBINED DRAFT:-

Various methods of drawing in can be combined in one draft for producing a certain type of fabric. Two or more drafts described above can be applied simultaneously, for example, straight and skip or sateen, grouped and curved, and so on. Combined draft is the most complicated and can be chosen only if there are

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some technological or economical reasons. The designer having a great experience can do it properly.

RELATION TO DRAFT DESIGN $ PEG PLAN:-

The construction of any woven fabric depends upon the design, draft and the lifting plan and these are very closely dependent upon one another. A thorough knowledge of this interdependence is very valuable to the designer upon whose skill several mechanical limitations of the loom may be imposed. In many cases it is only his innate acquaintance with the drafting systems and the possibilities of manipulating the lifting orders which enables him to introduce variety into apparently rigid mechanical systems of operation. In normal practice the designer has to produce a range of designs for looms with a known pattern scope. This usually involves the draft and the lifting plan construction.

DENTING ORDER:-

It is indicate the no. of warp ends passed through a dent of reed. Warp ends during weaving are spaced out across the width of the warp sheet according to the desired density by the wires of the reed. The most frequent order of density is one, two, three, four ends per dent.

2 CHEPTER PLAIN WEAVE

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INTRODUCTION:-

The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weaves. It is the simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2. The range of application of this weave is wide.The plain weave has the following characteristics:(i) It has the maximum number of binding points(ii) The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.(iii) The thread density is limited(iv) Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.(v) It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple A complete unit of the plain weave occupies only two warp threads and two picks of weft which is the design for that weave.Minimum repeat – (2x2).Draft used – Straight, skip.Angle - 90°

Plain weave (8x8) (1/1)

PLAIN WEAVE END USES:-

Plain weave finds extensive uses. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.

DERIVATIVES OF PLAIN WEAVE:-

The plain weave may be modified by extending it warp or weft way or both. The extension of the plain weave thus produces a rib effect. A warp rib results from extending the plain weave in the warp direction and a weft rib structure results from extending the plain weave in the weft direction. A matt rib results from extending the plain weave in both directions.The chart below shows the derivatives/modifications of plain weave :

Plain weave-------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Warp rib Weft rib Matt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Regular Irregular Regular Irregular Regular Irregular

WARP RIB:-

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It may define as plain weave in which each and passed alternatively over and under two or more than two picks.Warp rib normally used in warp faced construction. it may of two type—(1) Regular warp rib (Ex.- 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5, 6/6, 7/7,etc.) (2) Irregular warp rib (Ex.- 2/1, 3/1, 4/2, 3/2, 5/3, 5/6,etc.)

Warp rib regular (2x4) Warp rib regular (2x6) (2/2) (3/3)

Warp rib irregular (2x8) Warp rib irregular (2x6) (5/3) (4/2)

WEFT RIB:-

It may also defined as plain weave in which each pick passed alternately over and under two or more then two ends.Weft rib normally used in weft faced construction. It is also of two types—(1) Regular weft rib (Ex.- 2/2 ,3/3, 4/4, 5/5, 6/6, 7/7,etc.)(2) Irregular weft rib (Ex.- 2/1, 3/1, 4/2, 2/3, 5/2, 3/5,etc)

Weft rib regular (6x2) (3/3)

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Weft rib irregular (6x2) (4/2)

USES:-

Rib weaves are used in gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp cloth which is extensively employed for window blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief.

MATT ,HOPSACK,BASKET:-

These weaves are also variously known as hopsack or basket weaves. The matt rib structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions.(1) Matt regular (Ex.- 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5, 6/6, 7/7,etc.)(2) Matt irregular (Ex.- 3/2, 2/1, 4/5, 1/2, 3/6, 2/5, etc.)(3) Matt reversible [Ex.-(1/2,2/1), (3/1,1/3), (2/3,3/2), etc.](4) Matt non reversible [Ex.- (1/2,2/3), (3/2,3/4), (2/1,3/1), etc.]

Matt regular (4x4) (2/2)

Matt irregular (5x5) (3/2)

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Matt reversible (6x6) (1/2,2/1)

Matt non reversible (8x8) (1/2,2/3)

USES:-

Matt weave finds extensive uses for a great variety of fabrics such as dress materials, shirtings, sail cloth, duck cloth etc.

3 CHEPTER TWILL WEAVE

INTRODUCTION:-

Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be constructed in a variety of ways. The main feature of twill weaves that The twill order of interlacing causes diagonal lines to be formed in the cloth.

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The basic characteristics of twill weaves are :(i) They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.(ii) More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.(iii) Less binding points than plain cloth(iv) Better cover than plain weave(v) More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.(vi) ornamentations.

Minimum repeat- (3x3)Draft used - straight.Denting order- 2, 3 ends/dent.Angle- 45°

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Twill weave (3x3) (1/2)

CLASSIFICATION OF TWILL WEAVE:-

The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms. They are however classified broadly into important categories, namely:(i) Ordinary simple or straight twill. ---L.H.T, R.H.T.(ii) Steep twill.(iii) Pointed twill.(iv) Diamond twill.(v) Herringbone twill. ---- Diaper(vi) Transposed or rearranged twill.(vii) Broken twill.(viii) Curved twill.(ix) Combined twill.(x) Fancy twill.

Types of weave:- (i) Warp faced twill. (ii) Weft faced twill. (iii) Balance

POINTED TWILL:-

These are also known as zigzag or wavy twills. twill in which the direction of twill lines change alternately i.e. one from left to right and then right to left .This may be horizontal or vertical irrespective of regular and irregular type—Minimum repeat-(i) Regular (4x3) horizontal. (3x4) vertical (ii) Irregular (6x3) horizontal. (3x6) vertical

Regular pointed twill-(4x3, 6x4, 8x5, 10x6, 14x8, 12x7, etc.)Irregular pointed twill-(6x3, 8x4, 10x5, 12x6, 14x7, 16x8, etc.)

E/p is divided then regular 18/6 = 3

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E/p is not divided then irregular 12/5 = 12/5

CONDITION OF POINTED TWILL:-

The condition of pointed twill weave is that it always finesses in second page.

Pointed twill regular (4x3) (1/2)

Pointed twill irregular (6x3) (1/2)

HERRINGBONE TWILL:-

In the case of these twills, the twill is reversed as in the case of pointed twills. However, the pointed effect is broken. This type of construction produces a distinct stripe effect and also prevents the Formation of an extended float where the weave turns. In this aspect the herringbone twills are considered o be more advantageous than the pointed twills.Minimum repeat-(i) Regular (6x4) horizontal. (4x6) vertical (ii) Irregular (4x8) horizontal. (8x4) verticalDenting order- 3or5 ends /dent.Draft – same as base design.

Regular herringbone twill-(8x4, 12x4, 16x4, 20x4, 28x4, 24x4, etc.)Irregular herringbone twill-(8x6, 10x8, 12x10, 11x9, 15x13, 14x12, etc.)

CONDITION OF HERRINGBONE TWILL:-(i) Always made on even picks.(ii) Always close on half pick of design.(iii) Starts same as pointed twill diagonal.

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Herringbone twill regular (8x4) (1/3)

Herringbone twill irregular (8x6) (1/5) SATIN AND SATEEN WEAVE:-

Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill. Thus satin is the reveres side of sateen weaves. These weaves form an important category of weaves. They are used in combination with other weaves, particularly in case of ornamented fabrics. The striking feature of these eaves is their bright appearance and smooth feel.

FEATURE OF SATIN & SATEEN WEAVE:- (i) They are either warp or weft faced weaves.(ii) Have no prominent weave structures(iii) Only one binding point in each end or pick(iv) No continuous twill lines(v) Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility(vi) More thread density is possible in warp and weft(vii) More mass per unit area is possible(viii) Have less binding points and more float lengths(ix) Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weavesLOOM NO:-

First we have to calculate loom/count/step/move no. with the given pattern.The certain condition is to be fulfilled for calculating loom no. which are-------(i) Loom no. should not =1(ii) Loom no. should not =1 less then total no. of thread in a repeat.(iii) It should not factor of total no. of thread in a repeat.(iv) When it calculated is more then one no. we tape smaller one due to more interlacement result in better straight.E.g.- for (10x10) area Loom no. should not- 1,2,4,5,6,8,9. Then loom no. is -3, 7.

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REGULAR:- Regular satin and sateen we start from first pick & fill it with equal and regular interval on success ding picks with the help of wonted loom no.How ever minimum repeat is (5x5) [loom no.-3] for regular satin and sateen both.Regular- (5x5, 7x7, 8x8, 9x9, 10x10, etc.)

Sateen regular (5x5) Loom no. - 2

Satin regular (5x5) Loom no. - 2

IRREGULAR:- It always made on even no. of picks minimum repeat is (8x8) for both sateen & satin.Irregular- (8x8, 10x10, 12x12, 14x14,etc.)

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Sateen irregular (8x8) Loom no.- 3

Satin irregular (8x8) Loom no.- 3

END USES OF SATIN & SATEEN WEAVE:-

Satin weaves find a wide range of application such as denim, interlining cloth, ribbons, dress materials (lustrous), children’s dress materials etc.

COMBINED TWILL WEAVE:-

In these types of weaves two different types of continuous twills are combined together alternately. The combination may be warp way or weft way. Accordingly warp or weft faced twills may be used suitably.The angle of twill is influenced by the method of combination. If the twills are combined warp way, then the angle of twill is less than 45° and if the twills are combined weft way the angle of twill angle is greater than 45°.

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Minimum repeat(i) End to end combination (6x3)(ii) Pick to pick combination. (3x6)Draft – skip draft Area for end to end - [(2LCM) x LCM]Area for pick to pick – [LCM x (2LCM)]

End to end combination (6x3, 8x4, 10x5, 12x6, etc.)Pick to pick combination (3x6, 4x8, 5x10, 6x12, etc)

(3x3) (3x3)(1/2) (2/1)

Pick to pick (3x6) Combined twill

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end to end (6x3) Combined twill

BROLEN TWILL:-It produces a breaking effect in regular twill then produces a variety of alterative effect.Broken twill system consist of entering & skipping the thread of an ordinary twill which is normally having a equal warp & weft floats put not essential.

NECESSARY TERM:-(i) Total no. of thread.(N)(ii) Taking (T).(iii) Missing (M).(iv) Area

METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION :-

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Taking - T = N/2Missing - M = T-1Area - [(N x T) x N]Minimum repeat – (2/2) twillHere – N=2+2 = 4T = 4/2 = 2, M = 2-1 = 1Area – [(4x2) x 4] = (8x4)Regular broken twill – (2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5, etc.)Irregular broken twill – (2/4, 3/1, 5/1, 4/6, etc)

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Broken twill regular (8x4) T=2, M=1,

TRANSPOSED TWILL:-

In the case of these twills the diagonal effect is broken by transposition of the original order of the threads. This type of construction produces attractive designs. A number of methods can be adopted in the transposition of the regular twills. These are two types – (i) Fully transposed twill (6x6, 8x8, 10x10 etc.)(ii) Semi transposed twill (6x6, 8x8, 10x10 etc.)

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Fully transposed twill (6x6)

Semi transposed twill (6x6)

END USE OF THE TWILL WEAVES:-

Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets,shirtings, hangings and soft furnishings.

4 CHEPTER HONEYCOMB &CREPE WEAVE

HONEYCOMBINTRODUCTION:-

The honey comb weaves derive their name from their partial resemblance to the hexagonal honey comb cells of wax in which bees store their honey. These weaves form ridges and hollows which give a cell like appearance to the textures. Both warp and weft threads float somewhat on both sides, which coupled with the

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rough structure, renders this class of fabric readily absorbent of moisture. The weaves are of two classes, namely,(i) Ordinary honey comb. (8x8, 10x10, 12x12, etc.)(ii) Brighton honey comb. (8x8, 10x10, 12x12, etc)

ORDINARY HONEYCOMB WEAVES:-

These weaves are characterized by the following features(a) Cell like appearance with ridges and hollows(b) Single line crossing a single line or double line crossing a double diagonal line(c) More warp and weft floats(d) Moisture absorbent due to floats(e) Constructed with pointed drafts(f) A reversible fabric having similar effect on both sides.

Ordinary honey comb (8x8)

BRIGHTON HONEYCOMB WEAVES:-

These weaves are characterized by the following features:(a) Non-reversible cloths in which face appears different from back side of the cloth(b) Constructed on straight drafts only(c) Repeat size is a multiple of 4(d) Length of longest float is N/2 – 1, where N is the repeat size(e) A single diagonal line crosses a double diagonal line(f) Formation of 4 cells per repeat i.e., two large and two small cells (ordinary honey comb forms only one cell per repeat)(g) The number of threads in a repeat must be a multiple of 4.

Construction & motif:-

In the construction of Brighton honey comb weaves, a diamond base is first made by insertion of a single diagonal and then a double diagonal to cross it. Suitable motifs as shown in figure above are inserted inside the spaces of the diagonals.

Motif – (N/2 - 1)Area = (8x 8) , 8/2 = 4 – 1 = 3Motif = 3

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Brighton honey comb (16x16)

END USE OF HONEYCOMB WEAVES:-

The fabrics constructed from honey comb weaves have more thread floats on both sides and have a rough structure. This renders more absorption of moisture.The weaves are, therefore, suitable for towels and also in various forms for bed covers and quilts.

CREPE WEAVE

INTRODUCTION:-

Crepe weaves constitute an useful variety of simple weaves and are also known as “crape” or “oatmeal” fabrics due to their pebbly or crinkled (rough) surface. The size of the pebbles and their arrangement on the fabric surface determine the type of crepe fabric.The crepe effect can be achieved either by the use of crepe yarns (highly twisted) or a crepe weave, and sometimes by special process of finishing, i.e., embossing. Crepe weaves are commonly used in combination with other elementary weaves, to produce a variety of various effects in elaborate jacquard designs for brocade and related fabrics.

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The crepe weaves are characterized by the following features:(a) They contain no twilled or other prominent effects(b) The cloth is covered by minute spots or seeds(c) Highly irregular surface-puckered in appearance(d) High twist yarns are used with controlled shrinkage(e) Formed mainly by four methods, though several methods are available.

TYPE, S OF CREPE WEAVE:-

(i) Construction of crepe weaves upon sateen base(ii) Combination of a floating weaves with plain threads(iii) By reversing method (iv) Insertion of one weaves over another.

CREPE WEAVES UPON SATEEN BASE:-

In this case the base weave is sateen, upon which a chosen weave is inserted to get the irregular effects.

Crepes weave upon sateen base (5x5) Loom no. - 2 (2/3)

COMBINATION OF A FLOATING WEAVES WITH PLAIN THREAD:-

In this method a floating weave is inserted upon a plain weave to get the desired crepe effect as shown in

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Combinations of floating weave with plain thread. (8x8)

BY REVERSING METHOD:-

In this method a simple motif can be chosen and reversed at intervals within the design repeat to get an irregular effect.

By reversing method (8x8)

INSERTIONS OF ONE WEAVE OVER ANOTHER:-

In this method two different weaves are chosen and are inserted over one another to get the desired crepe effect.

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Inserting of one weave over another (5x5)

END USE OF CREPE WEAVES:-

Crepe weaves are frequently employed in conjunction with other elementary weaves, in order to produce a variety of different and contrasting effects in elaborate jacquard designs for brocade and similar fabrics. They are also employed in the production of cotton piece goods that are usually woven in the grey state, to be afterwards bleached and used for a variety of domestic purposes. Crepe fabrics are also sometimes printed with decorative designs and sold as a light and cheap material known as “cretonne”, which is employed extensively as loose coverings for furniture, antimacassars, covers, curtains and wall hangings, and for many other similar household articles.

5 CHEPTER HUCKBACK & MOCKLENO WEAVE

HUCKBACKINTRODUCTION:-

The huck a back weaves are basically toweling fabrics. They are generally associated with honey comb fabrics and hence known as honeycomb effects. They are constructed by alternately combining a floating with a plain weave.

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Interestingly, a number of weaves are derived from these weaves. Huck a back weaves are suitable for producing thick and heavy textures. One of the well known heavier varieties of this class is the “Grecians”. The design of huck a back weaves permits stripe and check effects to be brought out in the fabrics.

The huck a back weaves are generally characterized by the following features:(a) Repeat is divided into four equal parts. Two parts are filled with plain weave and remaining two parts are filled with long float motif.(b) Plain weave gives firmness to the cloth.(c) Long float motif gives moisture absorbency.The loom equipment required would ideally be a dobby loom fitted with a fast reed mechanism.

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Huck a back (10x10)

END USE OF HUCK A BACK WEAVES:-

Huck a back weaves are largely employed in the manufacture of both linen and cotton towels for bath rooms, and also linen towels for use as glass cloths.

MOCKLENO

INTRODUCTION:-

Mock lenos, also known as imitation lenos are a variety of weaves of ordinary construction which produce effects that are similar in appearance to the gauze or leno styles obtained with the aid of doup mounting. These weaves are generally produced in combination with a plain, twill, satin or other simple weaves or even with brocade figuring, to produce striped fabrics, which bear a very close resemblance to true leno fabrics. Two kinds of structures are produced by the weaves,(i) Perforated fabrics which imitate open gauze effects(ii) Distorted thread effects which imitate spider or net leno styles.

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Mock leno (8x8) Bed sheet

END USE OF MOCK LENO WEAVES:-

Mock lenos find uses in canvas cloths, cheap fabrics for window curtains, light dress fabrics, blouses, aprons etc. In many cases, they are generally employed in

combination with other weaves.

6 CHEPTER SOME ONE AREA’S MAKING WEAVE

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X X X X

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• •• •

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• •

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o oo o o o o o

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Stitched Hop sack (16x12)

Draft same as design.

Barley com (10x10)

Draft same as design.

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•• ••• ••• •

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o o oo o

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X X X

oo

oo

oo

oo

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Fancy twill (8x8)

Twilled hopsack (8x8)

Devon hack (10x6)

Table showing important details pertaining to various weavesSN.NO. TYPE OF

WEAVETYPE’S OF DRAFT

END’S USE

1 Plain Straight/skip Shirtings, suiting, casement, sheeting, canvas, blouse materials etc.

2 Warp rib Straight Gross grain cloth, Meatless cloth, Upholstery and furnishing, hanker- chief

3 Weft rib Straight Gross grain cloth, Meatless cloth, Upholstery and furnishing, hanker- chief

4 MattStraight

Duck cloth, sail cloth

o oo o

o oo o

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• •• •• ••

o oo o o

o oo o o

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5 Twill Straight

Denim shirtings,khakhi cloths, drill cloth, blankets, hangings and soft furnishings

6 Satin/sateenStraight/sateen

Denim, interlining cloth, ribbons and dress materials

7 crepeStraight

Furnishing fabrics, covers and wall hangings

8 Huck a back Straight

Towels and glass cloths

9 Ordinary honeycomb pointed

Towels

10 Brighton honeycomb Straight Bed covers and quilts

11 Mock lenoStraight

Curtain cloths, canvas, light dress fabrics, blouses, aprons

12 Double clothdivided

Hose pipes, filter cloths and insulation cloths

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