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INTRODUCTION

This step-by-step guide is designed to be used in together with other available documentation includ-ing: üm•nitza Video Tutorials, üm•nitza Customer Success Stories and the üm•nitza DDE (Daylight Demon Eyes) FAQ.

This Install Doc’s purpose is to walk you through assembly steps to install Daylight Demon Eyes™ into the headlamp of a BMW E46.

The installation is rather intuitive and you should be able to complete both headlamps in approximately 2 hours including wiring.

TOOLS REQUIRED

1. 1/4” or 3/8” Socket Wrench 2. Metric sockets 8mm and 10mm3. 7/8” Wood-type spade Drill Bit 4. Electric Drill5. Slip joint or Channel Lock Type Pliers6. Small Straight-Edge Screwdriver7. Small Philips Screwdriver8. Single Edge Razor Blade/Utility Knife9. Scissors10. Clear 2-part Epoxy glue (90 second variety pre-ferred) or Optional Clear Silicone Sealant11. Extending Magent ($5 kind)12. Cigar Cutter (standard plastic)13. 8’ of 24/26g Wire [not pictured]

KEY SECTIONS:

1. Contents2. Headlight Removal3. Fiber Routing/Ring Installation4. Light Box Installation5. Wiring6. Headlight Installation7. Tips and Clues

HEADLIGHTS ADDRESSED

1. E46 Standard/Xenon2. E46 Bi-Xenon3. E46 with Cold Weather Package4. Note on Auto Leveling

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CONTENTS

1. 4 Gen IV Rings w/ Standard or Bi-Xenon Clips2. 8 Proprietary Fiber Cables (24” EACH)3. 2 Proprietary Light Boxes (Unassembled)4. 2 Lamps 5. 2 Lighting Power Adapters6. 2 High Temperature Vinyl Sheaths7. 2 Bushings (Optional)8. 4 Butt Splices9. 4 Wiring Connectors10. Miscellaneous Tie Wraps and Other Small Parts

HEADLIGHTS ADDRESSED

1. E46 Standard/Xenon2. E46 Bi-Xenon3. E46 with Cold Weather Package4. Notes

BiXenon With Cold Weather Package Facelift

BiXenon With Cold Weather Package

Bi-Xenon BOSCH

Standard BOSCH

1. Does NOT interfere with Auto Leveling feature of Bi-Xenon Headlights.

2. 3 Different BOSCH headlights under one part number. Fitting designed for “middle” of all three

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HEADLIGHT REMOVAL

Remove 4 8mm bolts to remove headlight. For the two “shiny” metallic looking bolts, one bolt is located towards the inside of the grill (for each headlight), and one bolt located behind the headlight. See pictures below.

After removing the headlamp, pull the weather strip trim straight out at each connector and remove it. See Picture Below.

There are 7 tabs holding the outer lens cover to the headlamp.

Lift each one to release the front lens cover, pull it free and set aside.

The beauty ring is held at all four corners. Pull straight out using light pressure with a flat-blade screw driver and set aside on a towel. This ring may require trimming in the future depending on fit and headlight type.

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HEADLIGHT REMOVAL (cont.)

If you have Bi-Xenons on your E46 M3 (2002 to present), you will have an HID Ballast in the direction of the driver’s side shock tower (seen in the picture below). To remove this ballast, the plastic cover is held in place by some plastic tabs. Firmly grasp the cover and pull up on it.

Once detached, there is one bolt holding the frame that the HID ballast resides in. Unhook the two wiring harness connectors, and carefully remove the ballast as you remove the headlight. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DETACH THE BALLAST FROM THE HEADLIGHT.

If you have the Cold Weather Package, additional steps will be required to remove the assembly. Below and right are pictures of the trim and how it looks when it has the headlight washer parts shown below removed.

Headlight Washer Pieces - do not “mix” them.

The Washer System pulls out with relatively minimal pres-sure.

The following are key step by step procedures for how to remove the washer nozzles.

1) Pull lower headlight trim out until first nozzle2) Reach behind the trim piece to pull the nozzle out a

fraction of an inch3) Grab nozzle and pull out of trim piece4) Twist nozzle trim piece off by turning in the direction

away from the grill/center of the car5) Once the trim is removed, grasp the washer spray

nozzle firmly, and twist away from the center of the car (counter clockwise on passenger side, clockwise on driver’s side).

*Please Note - some fluid, even all fluid from the washer reservoir may spill out. This is normal.

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Fiber Routing/Ring InstallationYou will need to drill a 7/8” hole in the back of the headlamp to route the fiber optics out to the remote light box. The light box is remote to allow it to be posi-tioned to clear Cold Air Intakes and Superchargers, etc.

If you have chosen to drill the 7/8” hole to route the fiber through, please use the attached bushing to pro-tect the fiber from damage around the sharp edges of the hole with this bushing and check to ensure that there are no wires in the location where you intend to drill the hole.

Optionally, the current method of choice is to run the fiber through individually drilled holes that are exactly 17/64th” in diameter. See pictures below and on the

for size and routing details.

4 holes drilled. When drilling be sure to use an extra sharp drill bit and press lightly while the drill is set to high speed. This will prevent you from drilling through any-thing behind the headlights.

Fiber routing as it looks before “clean-up”.Speaker wire cover shown not included in kit. Headlights

used for demonstration are Bi-Xenons w/ Auto Leveling from a 2002 E46 M3.

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Fiber Routing/Ring Installation (cont.)

Clips come in 2 different designs and 3 different attach-ments. Using the pictures below, please identify which parts you have and confirm that they are a match for your headlight style.

BiXenon Clip

Standard/Halogen/Non-BiXenon Clip

Both clip styles on one ring indicates that you have a Bi-Xenon application. When you have two Bi-Xenon clips on your ring, that Dual Bi-Xenon Clip ring goes onto the headlight’s LOW BEAM side. The “staggered” ring that has both the Bi-Xenon Clip and Standard clip on it should be placed on the INSIDE. That is, the smaller ring should be on the inside towards the center of the car.

When placing the rings onto the trim pieces (bevel) of the headlight, be sure to press firmly down on the ring as the clip slides over the lip of the headlight reflective piece. If the reflective piece is too thick you may either dremel out a small (10mil) section of the reflective ele-ment, or use a side to side rocking motion to position the clip.

Below is a picture of the rings as the fiber is routed into them and lit up.

Both the picture above and below show the drivers and passenger’s side installations, respectively. To ensure proper fit, please route the fiber through the holes first, insert them into the rings, then attach the rings to the bevel.

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Light Box Installation (THIS IS ONLY FOR GENERATION IV KITS)

Installing your lightbox may be performed at any time during the install pre-wiring. It is esssential to follow some key steps to ensure proper fitment and brightness.

First, open the box in which the light bulbs are stored. Find the connector with the two little holes in them and insert the light bulb into those two openings - shown below.

The next step is to begin assembling the box. The easi-est and quickest was to do the assembly is to make sure you line up all the necessary parts, also note that when doing preliminary assebly, do not tighten the screws, as that will prevent you from being able to complete installation properly.

See picture below for the first step.There is a metal tab that is in front of the bracket shown above. That metal tab is used to ensure the light bulbs rests securely inside the light box. The pictures on the next page shows the full detail.

The push bracket can be moved into the above posi-tion either by finger pressure of with a screw driver. The

position above is the ideal angle.Please note the way the lamp brackets slots in under the pushed up lamp holding bracket.

The lamps base is rectangular. The width is longer than the height. The widest section should slot between the bracket’s open-ing. This ensures that the bracket further secures the lamp to prevent any unwanted lamp movements and changnes of focus.

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LIGHT BOX INSTALLATION (Gen IV & V) (cont.)

The next step is to tie wrap the fibers together before they ener the barrel. This step is shown in the pictures starting at left and pro-ceeding below.

Please note the proximity of the fibers to the end of the barrel. The picture at the

top is the Generation IV install, while the pic-ture at right is the new Generation V fiber connector.

The bottom picture shows the tie wrap to the barrel. Note that in this picture that the

bent tab is used to hold the top of the lamp in place.

LIGHT BOX SAMPLE LOCATIONS (Gen IV & V) (cont.)

Once the light box is completed, you can now examine locations for its placement. Wherever it is placed, make sure you have that area completely clean and dry. The placement of the passenger side light box will not change whether you have Generation IV or Generation V.Drivers Side - Best Place Near Shock Tower

For E46 M3

Passenger Side - This Differs for Generation IV and V

See opposite page for mounting details for Generation V

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LIGHT BOX SAMPLE LOCATIONS (cont.)

E46 Passenger - Custom Mounting Bracket Not Included.

Standard E46 Install

Standard E46 Passenger Install Gen V

Standard E46 Install Gen V driver’s side install

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LIGHT BOX WIRING (Generation IV)

Now that you’ve found the correct location for your light box, it’s time to look at the wiring options available.

Below are several different wiring alternatives for the E46 - under no circumstances should you EVER wire the light boxes to the E46’s Turn Signals/Parking Lights. We will detail them in progressively more difficult steps.

First, find two different color wires of the same guage and wrap them together tightly. The best method for doing this is using your drill, inserting both wires into the drill, and having someone hold the two ends apart on the other side. Then, by turning the drill clockwise, you can make the wires wrap around each other tightly.

One will want to begin by locating your power and ground “tap in” locations. The quiests and easiest is the E46’s fog lights - on both the M3 and the 323/325/328/330 cars.

Since the light bulbs have no polarity, all one has to do is splice into the wires, one doesn’t need to worry about which wire is positive or negative.

To ensure an appropriate connection, please use the supplied

These wire tap ins have two barrel openings. One open-ing is a “straight-through” which is what attaches to the the existing wire.

The other opening is short on one end, and long on the other. You begin to tap the wire by placing the wire that you braided into that long opening next to the exiting wire and crimping down the metal tab with a pair of pliers.

Your next step will be to run the wire that you just tapped (the braided one) back to the lamps two wire leads.

To connect the plugs, you’ll use the supplied “ba-nana” plugs that look like this:

Final connection should look like this:

Light Box Wiring (Generation V)

Above and below is information about how to install a Generation V kit. It requires no pre-assembly but requires a differ-ent technique. The relay (Marked “A”) contains 4 connections. In order, they are power (yellow) which connects

to the battery terminal, ground (black) which connects to a non-painted metallic surface on the body (usually an existing bolt with a ground already on it), and 2 2-pair wires used to connect to the bulbs.

Since the bulbs have no polarity, the 2-pair wires that run inside the sheath can be connected to either side of the lamp (B), it is a good idea to connect and then reconnect these leads to each other to ensure a proper conducting environment.

Below right is another location mounting point (for those that don’t want to drill into the body of the car). While this makes for a less than clean installation, it does eliminate the need to make additional drill holes into the car. Another drawback to this install is the length required to reach teh positive terminal stretches the wire and may lead to faulty power later with wear and friction. Upon installing the relay, the next job is to run the wiring under or in the cable tray that sits above the engine. This tray is particu-larly small. You’ll have two options. Remove the sheathing

as it enters the tray, then put the sheathing back onto the wires as they exit the tray. Or, simply tie wrap the whole sheath to the bottom of the tray as shown above and on the left.

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A

B

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WIRING EXAMPLES

These are a set of examples of how to wire up the Daylight Demon Eyes. These are just ideas and are sig-nificantly more work (with greater reward).

This is an example of wiring to the direct power source so that whenever you turn the ignition to the “on” posi-tion, the DDEs will turn on.

For Generation V and even Genera-tion IV, you can choose a wire to splice into based on your preferences. Above you see the picture of the “tester” that was used to determine which “hot” wire was desired for the optimal connection point. Keep in mind, this connection point is entirely up to the customer.

Shown above and at left are possible connection points. Above, the wiring is spliced into the “accessory power” wire that remains “hot” for 10 seconds after the engine is turned off and the ignition key is removed.

At right, the arrows point to wires that are simply turned on and off with the ignition but do not remain on after key removal.

So far, those are the only two points that have been explored, with most cus-tomesr choosing those. In either case, the splicing into those (for Generation V it’s the blue wire, while Generation IV

requires two wires - positive and negative) acts as a trig-ger (for Generation V’s wiring harness and relay) or as a positive/power connection (for Generation IV).

IT is useful to have a tool, such as the one pictured, or a multimeter to find out which wire goes with which switch and decide on the “trigger” of your choosings

GENERATION V POINTS

The blue wire that comes out of the long 2-pair wiring sheath (that is closest to the passenger side on left hand drive models) is used as a trigger wire.

When the blue wire is con-nected to a “trigger” - in this case the accessory power - it sends an electrical current back to the relay signaling the relay to close the circuit. When the relay has received this “close circuit” charge, it effectively completes the circuit that allows the power from the battery to be distrib-uted to the two light boxes.

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WIRING EXAMPLES (cont.)In this example, we chose the red wire with the yellow stripe because it was the one that allowed the DDEs to re-main on as part of the “accessory” power for 10 seconds after the key was removed from the ignition.

Make sure you have a tester, similar to the one in the picture, that will allow the proper location of the wire which will yeild the desired result. For Generation V, this is the location of the splice for the blue wire that comes out of the longer wiring loom.

At the left is a guide for how to run the wire to the ECU. Note the way it runs into the wire tray located above the engine. This tray has several snaps that need to be re-moved.

There are MANY other ways to wire the system, these include relays, switches, alternative power sources, etc. The purpose of this guide is not to show you all of those. The purpose is to provide the most popular and easy to install options.

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HEADLIGHT RE-INSTALL

Final step to complete the install. When replacing your headlight, make sure that all the “guides” line up prop-erly. The movement of the headlight will seem difficult at first, but with careful maneuvering, the headlight will fall “naturally” into the groove for placement.

The best way to do it is to maintain alighnment with the middle section of the back of the light where the rear screw attaches.

Some Key Tips 1. When screwing the inside grill

and rear bolts, use an extend-ing magnet like the one shown on the right.

2. Do not attempt to force the bolts into the openings, if they do not easily screw in, then you ahve an alignment issue.

3. In order to insure proper headlight aiming (exactly as it was prior to headlight removal), ensure that the bolts are screwed onto the exact same “markings” that they left at the time of their removal.

4. You may need to unscrew the bolt next to the grill prior to complete installation to ensure that your lower trim piece is more easily re-installed.

5. The lower trim piece, under the headlight, is remark-ably sturdy, and will withstand significant force to replace. While not “unbreakable” it is capable of withstanding a firm pressure to reseat the clamps.

6. The three pronged final clip of the lower trim piece that inserts into the headlight slot closest to the grill is a delicate piece. Ensure that it’s 3 prongs are all positioned inside the slot, otherwise, one of the prongs will break off. This in and of itself is not bad, but may cause alignment issues in the future.

7. If all the trim piece clips are in place, you can give the trim piece a firm, but not aggressive push to “seat” the clamps.

8. Because at this point the fibers are “dangling” behind the headlight, they have been in contact with a variety of engine bay parts. While it is good to keep your engine bay clean, it may not be so at time of installation. This is NOT an issue with the fiber as you will be trimming it anyway. Moreover, the fiber is covered with a teflon sheath, so it’s unlikely to be damaged.

9. When cutting the fiber, it is advised to use something extremely sharp and perform the cut quickly. It’s a good idea to have the vinyl sheath around the fibers at this time to ensure that the fiber and sheath are cut to the same distance. The cut should do three things: a) trim excess fiber that is not necessary b) trim the fiber strands to the same length regardless of radius of bend of the outer or inner strands and c) allow for the proper placement of the fibers into the

barrel.10. Upon completing the cut, the fibers will appear

dull or “unfinished.” The fiber should look like it’s “glazed” and clean. See picture below for details. To accomplish this it’s necessary to use a razor blade, exacto knife, or the preferred method: a cigar cutter.

11. Once the fiber is cut, make sure the bulb is not turned on yet, insert the fiber all the way into the barrel until it touches the lamp. At this point, firmly grasp the fiber just in front of the barrel, and tie wrap it firmly THIS IS NOT NECESSARY FOR GENERATION V.

12. Upon completing that tie-wrap, remove the fiber 1/2” from it’s fully inserted position inside the barrel. Slide the sheath over the fiber, onto the barrel at this point, and tie wrap the sheath onto the barrel. This will prevent any fiber burning or charring.

13. Finally, you’re ready to test the application. See next page for results.

GENERATION V TIPS14. When connecting the wires to the light boxes, con-

nect and reconnect them once or twice. This insures that any manufacturing oil or residue is “rubbed” off and will lead to better conductivity.

15. When running the wire loom across the engine bay, the wiring tray above the engine may not contain sufficient room for the whole sheath to fit into it. In this case, you can remove the undertray and drill a hole into it. This hole will serve as a tie wrap point to hold the wiring loom to the wiring tray.

16. It may be required to drill or cut away little openings in the rubber seals that cover the two firewalls that protect the steering system openings (on opposite sides of the car) from the engine. These holes will not affect the sealing properties and should be used as “wireways” or “cable right of ways” for the wiring to run through the engine inconspicuously.

OTHER TIPS COMING SOON

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EXAMPLES

Thanks to Cabby, John V, Malladawg, MacFly, and Kevin Tang for contributing the following pictures:

The End

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