trending: koreanThis season's hottest cuisine

Breaking BreadWith Mark Best

italian lunchFrom the Amalfi Coast

luke nguyen'sFrench accent

high-tech sweetsMacarons, truffles and nougat

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March 2016

Welcome to the March issue of The Cooked Magazine, packed with endless inspiration for entertaining at home.

From long, languid lunches in the sun to impressive dinner parties menus, we've got the recipes and tips you need to help you host like a pro.

Acclaimed chef Mark Best reveals the secret to crafting sourdough and cultured butter from scratch. Giancarlo and Kate Caldesi channel the Amalfi Coast in their summery Italian lunch. Luke Nguyen shares a lavish French dinner party menu, complete with wine matches, and four of our favourite foodies celebrate this season's hottest cuisine, Korean.

For a sweet send-off, try Yasmin Othman's high-tech recipes for macarons, nougats and chocolates, and read Casey Warrener's advice on setting the perfect table.

Here's to another month of fabulous food.

Happy cooking, sarah gamboni, editor

entertaining essentials

taBle toPspage 4

Breaking Breadpage 6

on trend: koreanpage 8

italian lunchpage 12

french dinnerpage 18

high-tech dessertspage 22

nail the Basicspage 26

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For more entertaining inspiration, visit Cooked.com.au. Image credits (this page): Luke Nguyen's Lyonnaise salad, from France; photography Alan Benson and Suzanna Boyd(cover): Giancarlo and Kate Caldesi's caprese salad, from The Amalfi Coast; photography Helen Cathcart

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Image credits (this page): Luke Nguyen's Lyonnaise salad, from France; photography Alan Benson and Suzanna Boyd(cover): Giancarlo and Kate Caldesi's caprese salad, from The Amalfi Coast; photography Helen Cathcart

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what’s cooking

Oscar de la Renta Oak Leaf Napkin Ring, $257, from Amara

Kate Spade New York Larabee Dot Tumbler Set, $129, from Kate Spade Home

Anna New York Ardana Napkin Rings, $277, from Amara

Retro Stemware Tumbler set,

$86.95, from Temple & Webster

Embroidered Dot Napkins, $9.95 to $34, from West Elm

taBle toPs

All THE TAblE dECorATing inSpirATion

you nEEd Collectors Edition Dinnerware in Blue Floral,

$12 to $16, from West Elm

Sheridan Oppel Table Napkin set, $59.95, from Sheridan

5

what’s cooking

Siirtolapuutarha Tablecloth, $119, from Marimekko

Sheridan Tablecloth

Brodwater, $169.95, from

david Jones

Folk Pad Printed

Bowls, $12, each from West Elm

New York 24-piece

Cutlery Set Rose Gold,

$199.95, from david Jones

Fine Bone China Plates x Louise

Bourgeois, $60, from

Third drawer down

Metallic Napkins Set of 4, $19.95, from West Elm

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Breaking Bread

THErE’S noTHing MorE SATiSfying THAn A SlAb of frESHly bAKEd brEAd

SMEArEd WiTH SAlTy buTTEr. HErE, MASTErful CHEf MArK bEST rEvEAlS

THE SECrET To MAKing pErfECT SourdougH And CrEAMy, CulTurEd

buTTEr froM SCrATCH.

SMakes 2 loaves

bread is an intrinsic part of the Western table and we never considered anything but making our own. ours is not served

immediately to satiate the hungry pilgrim but is celebrated in its own right by accompanying an appropriate dish.

SourdougH STArTErOur sourdough starter is an adaptation of a

French ‘Poolish’ (or Polish) fermented starter. The starter, or ‘mother’ as it is often called, is now 13 years old and commenced its life

in my kitchen at home six months prior to the opening of Marque. 

organic fruit, (1 apple, 1 pear or 1 small bunch grapes)

filtered waterorganic unbleached wheat flour

(12 to 14 per cent protein)

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sourdough starterday 1 to day 3De-stem the fruit and then blend to a rough pulp. Place in a very clean container and cover with muslin. Leave at room temperature. Within 12 to 24 hours the natural yeast flora on the skin of the fruit will start a simple alcoholic ferment. At this stage it is very important to feed the ferment with a sprinkling of organic unbleached wheat flour (12 to 14 per cent protein) once a day. Do this for three days. It should have increased markedly in volume and have a fruity aldehydic smell. If there is no activity, or any mould forms, discard the mixture and start over, paying more attention to the hygiene of the utensils used.day 4 to day 6 Mix 1 cup flour with 1 cup filtered water. Mix into the ferment, then cover. This will at least double in volume. Repeat this process over the next two days. At this stage you will have to increase the volume of the container to contain the level of fermentation.

day 7Mix 1.5kg flour with 1.2 litres water, then add to the ferment and cover for 24 hours. At this stage you are good to go. The starter needs to be fed every 24 hours with an equal volume of flour and water to keep it active and healthy. On days you are not baking this means you will need to discard the same amount as you are adding to maintain the same volume. At Marque we have two 20 litre buckets on 24-hour rotation. We put back what we take out to maintain the same volume. We store the buckets in the wine cellar at 18°C. I think this is the reason our starter is so long-lived and stable.

sourdough loavesBegin this recipe one day in advance. Place 325g sourdough starter and 500ml water at 26°C together in a bowl and whisk to combine, then pour into a heavy-duty mixer with a dough hook. Combine 750g organic bakers’ flour and 120g organic wholemeal flour and add to the mixer. Use the dough hook to mix the dough for 1 minute then leave to hydrate for 30 minutes. Add 25g table salt and continue to mix for 6-10 minutes, or until elastic and smooth.

Remove from mixer and place in a large container with a lid. Leave at room temperature for about 4 hours, or until doubled in size. Turn out onto a clean bench and knock back by folding it over itself several times. Use a pastry cutter to cut two 750g portions of dough. Roll into tight balls using both hands in a circular motion. Allow to rest for 5 minutes. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

Take one ball of dough at a time and place it upside down on the workbench. Flatten into a 20×30cm rectangle about 3cm thick. Starting at one of the shorter ends, roll dough into a tight roll all the way to the end. Starting at the middle of the roll, use both hands to stretch and work the loaf so that it is around 25cm long and even in width. Push your hands down while rolling the ends of the loaf to produce nice rounded ends.

Gently lift loaf onto prepared tray and repeat with other loaf. Drape each loaf with a piece of plastic wrap, and then wrap the tray tightly with plastic wrap so it is not exposed to the air. Store in the refrigerator for 24 hours, to allow the loaves to prove slowly and develop in flavour.

Remove from refrigerator and allow to prove at room temperature until they have increased in size by around three-quarters and still spring back to the touch – this may take 3-4 hours.

To bake the loaves, preheat a combi steam oven to 240°C. Dust loaves with flour and slash 5 times in a diagonal motion, about 2cm deep, with a bread knife. Bake at 240°C on combination steam for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 230°C with no steam and bake for a further 15 minutes. Finish on 140°C with no steam for a final 5 minutes’ cooking. Allow to cool completely before cutting.

By Mark bestFrom MarquePhotography Stuart Scott

Best kitchen Basicsby Mark bestComing soon to Cooked.com.au

on sale 1 March 2016

cultured ButterThere is only one thing to eat with our bread and that is salted, cultured butter. We could buy it but it seems pointless and we would miss out on the wonderful by-products: crème fraîche, buttermilk, ricotta and whey.l begin this recipe two days in advance. Sanitise all surfaces that will be in contact with the cream or butter. place 0.2 grams lactic starter (danisco MM100) in a small bowl. pour 10 litres organic cream into a large saucepan and warm to 25°C. once the cream is at 25°C, add a small ladle of it into the bowl with the lactic starter and whisk thoroughly. Continue to heat the bulk of the cream up to 37.5°C. When the cream is at temperature, pour it into a sanitised bucket along with the lactic starter and stir together. Cover with a lid and leave at room temperature (it must be above 20°C) for 12 to 15 hours.l Transfer to the refrigerator and leave for at least 24 hours (in the restaurant, we mature it for 1 week).l pour the cream into a heavy-duty mixer with a paddle attachment. Churn the cream until the butter is formed into small clumps, resembling popcorn.l Strain the butter into a colander over a bucket to collect the buttermilk for another use.l rinse the butter under running water to get rid of any excess buttermilk.l return the butter to the mixer and churn again using the paddle attachment to remove the water. discard any water as the butter dispels it. Continue churning until the butter is without water.l To mould the butter, line a butter mould with baking paper. use clean hands to roughly mould the butter to the shape of the mould. Season each mould liberally with Murray river pink salt then press the butter into the mould and close. remove the butter from the mould and wrap tigthly in plastic wrap to prevent from oxidising. refrigerate for several hours, or until the butter is firm.

POR

TRA

IT: P

ETR

INA

TIN

SLAY

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so hot right now: koreandiSCovEr WHy KorEAn CuiSinE iS flAvour of THE MonTH, WiTH fiEry rECipES froM your fAvouriTE CooKS, pluS A guidE To MuST-HAvE ingrEdiEnTS.

Quick bibimbapServes 4

370g short-grain white rice90g bean sprouts¼ cup rice vinegar2 tsp salt1 tbs sugar¼ cup light soy saucepinch of chilli powder3 tsp sesame oil1 carrot, sliced into thin matchsticks2 garlic cloves, finely choppedSaltfreshly ground black pepper1 zucchini, sliced into thin matchsticks400g beef fillet, thinly sliced4 egg yolks60g Japanese mayonnaise1 spring onion, chopped2 sheets toasted nori, sliced into thin matchsticks1 tbs toasted sesame seedsKimchi, to serve (optional)

KorEAn HoT SAuCE80ml gochujang (fermented Korean chilli paste, see glossary, page 11)125g miso paste1 tbs finely chopped bird’s eye chillies1 tbs finely chopped green capsicum6 garlic cloves60g sesame seeds2 tbs rice vinegar1 tbs sesame oil

By ben o’donoghueFrom ben’s Meat biblePhotography benito Martin

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8 pork ribs, with the belly still attached, cut into 2 portions of 4 ribsChilli gherkins, to serve

SpiCy SlAW¼ Chinese cabbage, finely sliced1 carrot, finely julienned using a mandoline1 small daikon, finely julienned using a mandoline2 spring onions, green part only100g Japanese mayonnaise2 tbs Sriracha chilli sauce

CHilli pASTE125g gochujang (see glossary, page 11)30ml light soy sauce4 garlic cloves, crushed2cm knob fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated1 tbs sugar½ tsp ground white pepper

To make the Korean hot sauce, place all the ingredients in a food processor and puree until smooth. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the sauce and store the remainder in the refrigerator (see Note).Rinse the rice under cold running water until the water runs clear. Drain and transfer to a saucepan, along with 1 litre fresh water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Set aside.Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the bean sprouts for 30 seconds. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.Combine the vinegar, salt, sugar, 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and the chilli powder in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil and stir continuously to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Pour the cooled mixture over the bean sprouts and set aside to pickle.Meanwhile, heat 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil in a large frypan over high heat. Add the carrot and half the garlic, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper and use a slotted spoon to remove the garlic and carrot. Set aside. Repeat with the zucchini and the remaining garlic.Heat the remaining sesame oil in the pan over medium-high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes, until browned and just cooked through. Add the remaining soy sauce and set aside.Divide the cooked rice among serving bowls and arrange the carrot, zucchini, beef, pickled bean sprouts and egg yolks on top. Dollop with a little mayonnaise and scatter over the spring onion, toasted nori and sesame seeds. Serve with the Korean hot sauce and, if you like, a side of kimchi. lben's tip: This recipe makes more Korean hot sauce than you need for the recipe, about 200g. Store the remaining sauce in an airtight container, where it will keep refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. The Korean hot sauce is just like any tasty condiment, but better! It’s excellent served alongside barbecued or grilled meat or fish – and in burgers, too.

By daniel Wilson From HuxtabookPhotography Chris Middleton

Korean barbecued pork ribs

Preheat the oven to its lowest setting — 80°C would be ideal. Place each set of four ribs in separate oven bags. Remove as much air as possible, then tie up the bags so they are absolutely sealed.Bring an ovenproof saucepan or casserole dish of water to poaching temperature (just below simmering point — there should be no movement in the water, maybe just a few bubbles on the bottom of the pan). The pan needs to be big enough to hold all the pork, but small enough to fit in your oven with the lid on. Place the bags of pork in the pan. Cover, transfer to the oven and cook for 10 hours, or overnight.Remove the bags from the pan and let the pork rest for 10 minutes. Place the pork bags in a large iced water bath, until the pork is completely chilled and firm.Remove the pork from the bags. Gently scrape off the jellied pork juice, then cut into individual ribs. Reserve in the fridge.For the spicy slaw, place the cabbage, carrot, daikon and spring onion in a bowl of iced water for 30 minutes, so they crisp up. Drain, then spin the vegetables in a lettuce spinner to dry them out. Toss the vegetables with the mayonnaise and Sriracha chilli sauce and mix well.For the chilli paste, mix all the paste ingredients together and set aside.To serve, preheat the oven to 180°C and line a baking tray with baking paper.Heat a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add the ribs and cook until golden and crisp on all sides. Brush the ribs on the two cut sides with the chilli paste. Place on the baking tray and bake for 5 minutes.Pile the slaw along one side of a platter. Slice the chilli gherkins lengthways and pile on the platter with the ribs. Get your fingers dirty and enjoy with beer! l

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Kimchi Makes 3kg

1 large Chinese cabbage250g salt90g rice flour55g caster sugar2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped1 garlic bulb, cloves separated and peeled5cm piece ginger, peeled and roughly chopped190ml fish sauce100g gochugaru (see glossary, page 11)7 spring onions, thinly sliced1 daikon, peeled and julienned1 nashi pear, peeled and julienned

Cut the cabbage into quarters and remove the core. Slice the quarters into 4cm chunks. Rinse well to remove any grit. Put the cabbage in a large bowl, sprinkle with the salt and mix well. Leave for 3 hours, tossing the cabbage every hour. Rinse the cabbage thoroughly several times and set aside to drain in a colander.

Place 625ml water in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the rice flour, bring to the boil and cook, stirring continuously, for 5-7 minutes until thickened. Add the sugar and cook for a further 2-3 minutes until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

In a food processor, blitz the onion, garlic and ginger until you have a paste. Add the fish sauce and pulse a few times to combine. Put the paste in a large bowl with the rice flour mixture. Stir in the gochugaru and add the spring onion, daikon, nashi pear and cabbage. Mix thoroughly. Place in a large airtight container and store in the refrigerator.

Check your kimchi after a few days. Bubbles should be forming around the top, which means it is fermenting. If you want to speed up the fermentation process, leave the kimchi out of the refrigerator until it has reached the level of sourness to your taste. Kimchi will keep in the refrigerator, in a sealed container, for several months – if it lasts that long! l

By brent owensFrom dig in! Photography Mark roper

i love Pickles and esPecially hot and sour kiMchi. it’s great By itself with rice, in a roll for lunch, as a salad or side with BarBecued Meat, with teriyaki or with Pork Buns. this reciPe Makes a lot, But you will eat it By the fork-load!

brEnT’S TipSWhen you add the paste,

it’s a good idea to wear disposable gloves and mix it with your hands.

If you’re planning on using the kimchi sooner rather than later,

leave a small amount out at room temperature to start fermenting quicker than the rest. It might

be ready in 3-4 days this way.

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bulgogi125ml soy sauce⅓ cup finely chopped spring onion2 tsp garlic, crushed1 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated1 tbs sugar½ tsp freshly ground black pepper2 tbs sesame seeds, toasted and crushed1kg lean rump or filletyangnyum kanjang (recipe follows), to serve

To make the marinade, combine all of the ingredients, except the beef, in a large bowl with 125ml water.

Cut the steak into very thin slices. Beat them out very flat, then cut into medium-size squares. Place in a dish with the marinade, turning to coat, then leave the meat to marinate for 3 hours or longer in the refrigerator. Grill briefly over glowing coals or in a chargrill pan and serve with rice and the bulgogi sauce (yangnyum kanjang).

glossary: korean ingredients

By Charmaine SolomonFrom The Complete Asian Cookbook Photography Alan benson

yAngnyuM KAnJAngMakes ½ cup

¼ cup soy sauce2 tsp sesame oil1 tsp doenjang (fermented bean sauce, see glossary) or Chinese bean paste2 tbs rice wine or dry sherry1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted and crushed2 tsp spring onion, finely chopped½-1 tsp gochujang (fermented chilli bean paste, see glossary) or chilli sauce1 small garlic clove, crushedSalt, to taste2 tsp sugar

In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, fermented bean sauce, rice wine, sesame seeds, spring onion, fermented chilli bean paste, if using, and 2 tablespoons water.

Crush together the garlic, salt and sugar to a fine paste. Add to the soy mixture and stir well to combine. Serve with the bulgogi. l

doenjang: This earthy, funky, fermented bean sauce is like a robust version of Japanese miso.

gochugaru: These hot pepper flakes add fiery heat to a range of dishes, including kimchi.

gochujang: This spicy, pungent paste is made with red chillies, glutinous rice flour and fermented soybeans.

Kimchi: From cabbage to cucumbers, spring onions to sprouts, fermented kimchi makes an appearance in almost every Korean meal.

rice vinegar: This delicate, clear vinegar is a versatile addition to your pantry, perfect for sushi, dipping sauces and salad dressings.

Ssamjang: A mixture of doenjang, gochujang, sesame oil and seasonings, this piquant sauce is served with Korean wraps, known as ssam.

Sesame oil: Use nutty, luscious sesame oil to season marinades, stir-fries and salads.

MAKE THE MoST of lATE SuMMEr’S bounTy WiTH THiS vibrAnT iTAliAn lunCH, inSpirEd by THE AMAlfi CoAST.

late suMMer lunch

From The Amalfi Coast By giancarlo Caldesi and Kate Caldesi Photography Helen Cathcart

rosemary & lime gin fizzSyrup4 long rosemary sprigs450g caster sugar2 limes, juiced and zest peeled into lengths500ml water

CoCKTAilginiceSoda or tonic waterWedge of lime for each glassrosemary sprig for each glass

To make the syrup, put all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Line a sieve with muslin or a thin cloth and pour over a kettle-full of boiling water to sterilize it. Strain the syrup through the cloth into a sterilized jug and then into sterilized bottles. Store in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.

To make the cocktail, pour 30ml syrup and 50ml gin over ice, top with soda or tonic water and serve with a wedge of lime and a rosemary sprig. l

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pasta from the rocksServes 4

350g spaghetti or linguine50ml extra virgin olive oil2 medium squid, cleaned and cut into 1 x 3cm strips400g fresh clams, cleaned400g fresh mussels, cleaned4 raw king prawns, with shells1 garlic clove, finely chopped½ fresh red chilli, thinly sliced, depending on strengthHandful of parsley, roughly chopped50ml white wine12 cherry tomatoes, halvedgood pinch of salt

Bring a pan of well-salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente. Heat the oil in a large frypan, add the squid and cook through for just a few minutes. Add the remaining seafood, garlic, chilli and parsley. The shells will start to open in just a few minutes.

When they are all open, pour in the wine and let it reduce for a couple of minutes. Discard any unopened shells. Then add the cherry tomatoes and salt. Drain the pasta and toss in the sauce. Serve on warmed plates. l

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insalata caprese Serves 4

300g flavourful ripe tomatoes2 x 125g balls buffalo mozzarella20 fresh basil leavesSalt and freshly ground black pepper½ tsp dried oregano¼ cup (60ml) best extra-virgin olive oil

Cut the tomatoes into 1cm thick slices or quarter them if small. Cut the mozzarella into 1cm thick slices or tear into thick shreds. Alternate slices of tomato and mozzarella on a serving dish, with a basil leaf in between. Season, sprinkle with oregano and drizzle with the olive oil. l

Enza’s eggplants Serves 6-8

3 eggplantsfine sea salt2 tbs extra virgin olive oil

Topping250g cherry tomatoes, diced2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 tsp dried oreganofreshly ground black pepper⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil10 anchovy filletsSmall handful parsley, roughly chopped, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cut the eggplants lengthways into 1.5cm thick slices (you should get about 10 slices) and then use a sharp knife to make shallow criss-crosses in the flesh. Lay the slices on a baking tray lined with baking paper and scatter with salt. Brush the top with olive oil and bake in the oven for about 25 minutes, or until soft and browned.

Meanwhile, make the topping. Mix together the tomatoes, garlic, oregano, black pepper and olive oil.

When the eggplants are done, remove from the oven and spoon the tomato mixture over, placing an anchovy over the top of each slice. Return to the oven for 15-20 minutes until the tomatoes have softened. Transfer to a serving dish and scatter with parsley.

Eat immediately or allow to cool to room temperature. This dish will keep in the fridge for a day or two but never serve fridge-cold. l

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Hot potato & smoked cheese croquettesMakes 24

500g floury potatoes, such as maris piper150g smoked cheese, such as scamorza affumicata or smoked cheddar50g ham or cooked bacon, finely diced50g parmesan or grana padano, finely grated25g pecorino cheese, finely grated (or more parmesan)2 tbs finely chopped parsley2 free-range eggs, separatedSalt and freshly ground black pepperSunflower oil, for deep-frying150g breadcrumbs

Boil the potatoes whole in their skins in plenty of salted water. This preserves the flavour and prevents the potatoes from becoming watery. Cut the scamorza into 3cm x 1cm rectangles (you will need about 25 pieces). Set aside.

To check if the potatoes are done, poke the largest with a skewer or sharp knife: they should be tender inside. When there is no resistance, remove from the heat and drain. Hold the potatoes with a tea towel and peel off the skins using a sharp knife. Mash, preferably using a potato ricer, as this keeps the mash light and fluffy. Now use a large spoon or your hands to mix in the ham or bacon, finely grated cheeses, parsley, egg yolks and seasoning to taste.

Heat the oil so that it is ready for frying. Take a piece of mash the size of an egg and roll it into a ball. Put it into the palm of your hand and flatten. Place a rectangle of scamorza in the centre and fold the mash over to enclose it, making sure the cheese is completely covered. Repeat until all the mash is finished: you should have about 22-25 mini sausage-shaped croquettes.

Dip each croquette into the eggwhite and then coat in the breadcrumbs. Fry in batches until golden brown and drain on paper towel. Serve immediately, while the cheese is still soft inside. l

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do be fussy in your choice of olives;

the flavour is so much better if you buy them with stones in and remove them just before cooking. good-quality black kalamata or taggiasche are best for this dish.

To remove the stones, squash them with

the blade of a knife and the stones

will pop out.

!

As this dish is really based on

whatever the hunter’s catch of the day is, it works equally well

with rabbit or guinea fowl.

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Hunter’s chicken Serves 6

1 free-range chicken, jointedSalt and freshly ground black pepper‘00’ or plain flour, to coat the chickenSunflower oil, to brown the chicken2 sprigs rosemary3 garlic cloves2 slices unsmoked bacon and pancetta100ml extra virgin olive oil2 red capsicums, roughly chopped2 large potatoes, peeled and chopped into large bite-size pieces175ml white wine2 tbs tomato puree400g canned plum tomatoes100g good-quality black olives, stoned400ml water1 tbs roughly chopped parsleyfresh crusty bread, to serve

Season the pieces of chicken with salt and black pepper. Coat in flour and tap off the excess. A quick way of doing this is to put the flour in a plastic food bag with the chicken pieces and shake the bag, making sure the meat is evenly coated. Heat the sunflower oil in a pan and brown the chicken very well all over. Remove the chicken from the pan and pour away the oil.

Finely chop the rosemary, garlic and bacon or pancetta together. Heat the olive oil in the pan and fry the rosemary, garlic and bacon for just 1 minute, taking care not to burn the mixture, before adding the capsicums and potatoes. Cook for 2 minutes and then return the chicken pieces to the pan. When hot, pour in the wine and allow it to evaporate for 2 minutes before adding the tomato puree, tomatoes, olives and cold water.

Break up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon. Partially cover the chicken and cook for about 1 hour, or until the meat falls off the bones. Stir in the parsley and serve with a green salad and hunks of bread to mop up the juices. l

Hunter's chicken 2012 Kangarilla Road Sangiovese

Strawberry tiramisu2015 Brown Brothers Moscato

Strawberry & lemon tiramisu Serves 6

500g strawberries300ml whipping cream250g mascarpone2 lemons, zested and juiced100g caster sugar2 tbs maraschino liqueur, white wine or elderflower cordial12 sponge fingersicing sugar, for dusting

STrAWbErry SAuCE500g strawberries50-100g caster sugar

For the strawberry sauce, hull the strawberries and cut any large ones in half. Tip into a large saucepan and add the sugar, according to the sweetness of the fruit. Bring to a gentle boil and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until the strawberries give easily when squished against the side of the pan. Strain through a sieve into a jug and when cool store covered in the fridge, for up to 1 week.

Set aside six medium strawberries. In a bowl, whip the cream and then whisk in the mascarpone. Fold in the lemon zest and sugar, followed by the lemon juice. In a flat dish, mix the liqueur with 1½ tablespoons of the strawberry sauce, then dip the sponge fingers into the liqueur until they are just soft but not soggy.

Cut the remaining strawberries into slices. Lay a few slices in the bottom of 6 tumblers or martini glasses so that the slices are facing outwards, then add a layer of cream, the remaining sauce and the soaked sponge fingers. Finish with a layer of cream. Decorate each glass with a fanned strawberry and lightly dust with icing sugar. lw

ine

Mat

ches

pasta from the rocks 2014 Oliver's Taranga Vermentino

Antipasti2015 De Bortoli Bella Riva Rosé

17

french affairluke nguyen travelled the length of france, sourcing cherished faMily reciPes and learning traditional techniques, which he shares in his lavish new Book.

By luke nguyenFrom francePhotography Alan benson

Mussels in white wine Serves 4-6 When buying mussels, be sure they smell like the ocean. Don’t buy any with shells that are cracked or open, or that refuse to close their shells when you handle or tap them. Try to cook the mussels immediately, but if you have to wait, place them in a bowl and cover them with a damp towel so they can breathe.

2kg mussels50g butter1 garlic clove, crushed2 eschalots, sliced1 leek, sliced, white part only1 bay leaf2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked190ml white wineChopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnishCrusty bread, to serve

Clean the mussels under running water, scrubbing off any dirt or seaweed and removing the beards.Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic, shallot, leek, bay leaf and thyme. Cook for 6–7 minutes, or until the vegetables are translucent.Add the mussels and the wine, cover the pan and increase the heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-5 minutes, or until the mussels have just opened.Discard any unopened mussels. Transfer the mussels to serving bowls and pour the cooking liquid over. Season with freshly ground black pepper, if you like, but never with salt – the mussels will be salty enough.Garnish with parsley and serve with crusty bread. l

18

lyonnaise saladServes 4

Serve this classic French recipe as a dinner party starter.

dash of white vinegar4 free-range eggs – make sure they’re super fresh!400g bacon lardons (thick-cut bacon, cut into matchsticks)40 baby cos lettuce leaves

CrouTonS⅓ cup (80ml) olive oil12 thin slices stale baguette

drESSing8 eschalots, thinly sliced4 tbs dijon mustard2 tbs red wine vinegar1 cup (250ml) extra virgin olive oil

To make the croutons, heat a frypan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and reduce the heat to low. Cook the baguette slices for about 3 minutes on each side, or until golden. Remove and drain on paper towel. The croutons will crisp as they cool. They will keep in an airtight container in a cool dark place for several days.Add the vinegar to a saucepan of slightly simmering water. Crack the eggs into separate ramekins. Using a large spoon, create a gentle whirlpool in the water to help the eggwhite wrap around the yolk during poaching. Slowly tip each egg into the water, white first. Leave to cook for 3 minutes, then remove the eggs

with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towel, then carefully trim the edges with kitchen scissors for a perfect shape, if desired.Meanwhile, place a frypan over medium heat and fry the bacon lardons for a few minutes, until nicely browned.

Add the dressing ingredients to a mixing bowl, combining well. Add the lettuce and toss gently to coat. Transfer the lettuce and dressing to serving plates, then garnish with the lardons and croutons.

Place a poached egg on top of each salad. Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve. l

serve this classic french reciPe as a dinner Party starter.

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Tie all the bouquet garni ingredients together with kitchen string.In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over high heat. Add the oxtail and brown on all sides, then remove and set aside.Season the beef with a generous pinch of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Brown the beef in batches, removing each batch to a plate.Reduce the heat to medium. Add the bacon, onion, carrots, celery and smashed garlic cloves to the pan and sauté for 3 minutes.Now return the oxtail and beef to the pan, and pour in the wine. If the wine doesn’t cover the beef completely, add some water until this is achieved. Add the bouquet garni, peppercorns, clove and juniper berries. Bring to the boil, skimming off any impurities that rise to the surface.Once the surface of the liquid looks clean, reduce the heat to a very low simmer. Add the orange segments and gently simmer for 3½ hours, or until the beef is very tender.Remove the bouquet garni, then transfer the stew to serving plates. Serve garnished with the parsley and orange zest. l

beef daube 2015 Gemtree Cinnabar GSM

petit lemon meringue tartlets2011 Tim Adams Botrytis Riesling

wine Matches

Mussels in white wine2014 Audrey Wilkinson Chardonnay

lyonnaise salad2009 The Truffle & Wine Co Tamar Valley Vintage Sparkling

beef daubeServes 4-6

A meal in a bowl, this rich French stew uses an inexpensive cut of beef that is slowly braised in red wine and flavoured with aromatic cloves and juniper berries. As we are using a lesser cut of beef here, you do need a long cooking period.

1 tbs olive oil4 oxtail pieces, each 8-10 cm thick1kg chuck steak, cut into 4cm chunks150g smoked bacon, roughly diced1 onion, diced2 carrots, chopped1 celery stalk, chopped2 garlic cloves, smashed750ml red wine1 tsp black peppercorns1 clove4 juniper berries2 oranges, zested, peeled and cut into segments, removing the membranes1 tsp chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

bouQuET gArni4 parsley sprigs1 celery stalk1 thyme sprig1 bay leaf

a Meal in a Bowl, this rich french stew uses an inexPensive cut of Beef that is slowly Braised in red wine and flavoured with aroMatic cloves and juniPer Berries. as we are using a lesser cut of Beef here, you do need a long cooking Period.

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petit lemon meringue tartlets Makes 12 This recipe belongs to patissier and cook, Gerhard Jenne. The curd will keep in a very clean sealed container in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Softened butter, for greasing2 egg whitesA few drops lemon juice½ cup (110g) caster sugar

SWEET pASTry¼ cup (55g) caster sugar1 egg yolk100g salted butter, cut into cubes1 cup (150g) plain flour

lEMon Curd100g caster sugar100g unsalted butter, diced100ml lemon juice2 eggs

To make the pastry, put the sugar and egg yolk in a bowl. Combine briefly with a wooden spoon, then add the butter. Using the spoon or your fingers, blend until the mixture comes together. (You can also use an electric mixer.) Sift in the flour and quickly work everything into a dough. Shape into a flat slab, enclose in plastic wrap and rest in the fridge for 1 hour before using.Meanwhile for the lemon curd, place the sugar, butter, lemon juice and eggs in a heatproof bowl. Now sit the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the base of the bowl. Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture starts to thicken. To check whether it is thick enough, dip a wooden spoon into the curd, then run your finger down the back of it; it should leave a clear channel. Pour the curd into a clean bowl and leave to cool.

To make the tarts, grease a 12-hole 5cm mini-muffin tin with a little butter. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to 3mm thick. Cut out circles with a 6.5cm fluted pastry cutter. Use them to line the muffin tins, carefully pressing the pastry right down into the base. Chill for 30 minutes.Preheat the oven to 180˚C.Line each tartlet case with foil and fill with dried beans or rice. Blind bake for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven and lift off the foil and beans or rice. Bake for a further 5 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, but leave the oven on for browning the top of the meringues.To make the meringue, put the eggwhites in a large, clean bowl. Add the lemon juice and a pinch of sea salt and start beating with an electric mixer. Once bubbles begin to form, start adding the sugar a tablespoonful at a time, and keep beating until you have a stiff but silky-looking meringue.Pipe or spoon a heaped teaspoon of lemon curd into each tartlet. Using a piping bag fitted with a 5mm plain nozzle, pipe circles of meringue into small peaks on each tartlet.Place the tartlets in the oven with both the fan and grill switched on and leave for a few minutes, until the meringue tops are nicely browned – or use a kitchen blowtorch to caramelise the meringue evenly all over and give a defined two-tone effect.The tartlets are best enjoyed the same day. l

this reciPe Belongs to Patissier and cook, gerhard jenne. the curd will keeP in a very clean sealed container in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

TEST your CooKing SKillS WiTH THESE profESSionAl rECipES for nougAT, CHoColATES And MACAronS.

high-tech sweets

From Atelier ConfectioneryBy yasmin othman

Photography lisa linder

basic nougat with pistachios, almonds and cherriesvegetable oil, for oiling4 small sheets rice paper or 2 large sheets rice paper300g white sugar50ml water150ml honey1 large egg white100g pistachio nuts, toasted100g blanched almonds, toasted50g dried cherries

Lightly oil and line a 19cm square tin with baking paper, then with 1 or 2 sheets of rice paper.Heat the sugar, water and honey in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, insert a sugar thermometer and cook until the mixture reaches 120°C for a very soft nougat, 143°C for a soft nougat and 150°C for a firm nougat.Meanwhile, whisk the egg white in a freestanding food mixer until soft peaks form. Once the syrup has reached the correct temperature, remove from the heat and slowly pour the sugar mixture into the meringue while still whisking on medium speed. Whisk until the mixture thickens and turns creamy in colour. Stir in the nuts and cherries and mix well.Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and level the top. Place another sheet or 2 of rice paper on top, pressing gently. Leave to cool completely for at least 3-4 hours, or preferably overnight at room temperature before cutting into pieces or strips. Store in an airtight container with baking paper between the pieces or strips for up to 2 weeks. l

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Preheat the oven to 180°C. Lightly oil a macaron tin or lightly oil and line a large baking tray with baking paper. Draw 2.5 cm circles on the paper as a guide.In a food processor, blitz the ground almonds and icing sugar together, then sift into a bowl and set aside.Place the egg whites in a freestanding mixer with a whisk attachment and whisk until foamy. Add tablespoonfuls of the caster sugar, one spoonful at a time, until the meringue is shiny and glossy. Fold in the ground almonds and icing sugar mixture until well combined, then divide the mixture into 3 bowls, add the food colouring and mix well.

Fill disposable piping bags with the mixture, then snip the ends and pipe within the indentations of the tin or onto the prepared tray. Leave for 5-10 minutes so the meringue dries out and forms a skin.Place in the oven and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 150°C and bake for 15-20 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. As soon as the mixture is cool enough to handle, remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.Once cooled, sandwich the macarons together with your desired filling. Unfilled macarons can be wrapped and frozen for up to a month or in an airtight container for up to a week. l

Macarons Makes 46

vegetable oil, for oiling100g ground almonds100g icing sugar3 medium egg whites100g caster sugar2 drops each food colouring

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peanut and caramel chocolate bars Makes 8

200g raw skinned peanuts500g milk chocolate, tempered (see page 25)½ batch basic nougat with pistachios, almonds and cherries, omitting the fruit and nuts (see page 22)50g milk chocolate, melted

SofT CArAMEl filling100g caster sugar15ml liquid glucose65ml thick cream½ tsp vanilla extract75 unsalted butter, cubed

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the peanuts on a baking tray and roast in the oven for 10 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Roughly chop half of the peanuts and leave the rest whole.Cover a chocolate bar mould with the tempered chocolate and leave to set in a cool dry place for 15-20 minutes.Meanwhile, for the caramel, place the sugar and liquid glucose in a heavy-based saucepan and heat over a medium heat until the sugar melts and forms an amber coloured caramel.Meanwhile, heat the cream and vanilla extract together in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and remove from the heat. Add the cream to the caramel mixture and mix well until combined. Remove from the heat and add the butter, a cube at a time, and mix the caramel well. Leave to cool in a cool dry place for about 20 minutes.Mix the soft caramel and peanuts together in a bowl. Once the chocolate bar mould has set, fill the cavity with the peanut and caramel mixture until half full, then leave to set for 10 minutes in a cool dry place.In a bowl, thoroughly mix the basic nougat mixture with the 50g melted milk chocolate. Place in a disposable piping bag, snip off the end and pipe onto the set peanut caramels. Leave to set again in a cool dry place for 10 minutes.Cover the top of the nougat with more chocolate then leave to set for 3-4 hours before removing from the mould. Store in an airtight container in a cool dry place for up to a week. l

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Cherry truffles Makes 40 250g dark chocolate chips200ml thick cream30g unsalted butter, cubed75g dried cherries20g freeze-dried cherries, finely choppedunsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting100g dark chocolate, melted

Line a baking tray with baking paper. Place the chocolate chips in a large heatproof bowl.Bring the cream to the boil in a saucepan. Remove from the heat and pour the cream onto the chocolate and mix well. Add the butter, a cube at a time, and mix until fully combined and smooth, then stir in the dried cherries. Leave the ganache to set for at least 4 hours before making into truffles.Place the freeze-dried cherries into a shallow bowl or tray.Once the ganache has set, lightly dust your hands with cocoa powder, then take heaped teaspoons of the ganache and roll into balls. Half dip the truffle into the melted chocolate and roll in your palms ensuring that the melted chocolate is covering the truffle. Roll into the freeze-dried cherries and place onto the baking tray.Leave to set in a cool dry place for about 1 hour. Store in a cool dry place for up to 5 days. l

How to temper chocolate

Take 500g dark chocolate chips and place two-thirds of the chocolate into a large heatproof bowl. place the bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water (double-boiler) and make sure that the bowl does not touch the water.Melt the chocolate and stir to ensure that all the chocolate pieces have melted. Completely melt the chocolate until it has reached 45-50°C. The same temperature applies to milk chocolate but only to 45°C for white chocolate. The chocolate needs to reach this temperature to ensure that the fats and sugars in the chocolate have melted evenly. if the chocolate is overheated it might become grainy and ‘seize’.

Add the remaining chocolate to the melted chocolate; this is called the seed.Keep stirring constantly until the chocolate has melted.This will cool down and thicken the chocolate to 31-32°C. This is the tempered temperature you are looking for. for milk and white chocolates, they should reach 29-30°C. if the temperature goes below this temperature, warm the water in the double-boiler and continue stirring the chocolate until it reaches the tempered temperature.The chocolate should be smooth and glossy and is now ready to use.

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Follow these basics when setting your table. Place the bread plate on the left, and your glassware on the right. A butter knife can be placed on top of the bread plate, and your glassware will typically be stacked from smallest to biggest, right to left (water, white and red wine glasses). Angle your glasses above your cutlery on the right-hand side.

If you’re working with napkin folding, make sure your fold is flat against your cutlery and the edge is facing out. The napkin-to-the-side is pretty old-school though, and we reckon you can throw the rules out the window a bit here – roll your napkins, fan them, place them on top of your plates, work them into origami – whatever! When your guests get up from the table and drape their napkins over chairs or crumple them onto the table, the 'proper' thing to do would be to refold or roll them.

With your utensils, you always work from the outside in, so when you’re setting consider your courses – main course cutlery will sit closest to your plate, and each preceding entree should be placed in the appropriate order outside of that. Soup spoons go on the right, and dessert cutlery is most easily distinguished when placed above your plates. If you don’t want to overload the table, leave dessert utensils out of the equation until you're ready to serve sweets.

If you want to get real fancy you can ‘crumb’ the table after each course. Using a pen-like tool (like this nifty number), scrape away anything that has fallen onto the tablecloth into a napkin.

‘Boxing’ means to line up all of your place settings with each other, with the aim of achieving overall symmetry and balance for your table. Some restaurants will go as far as to use rulers to make sure everything is evenly spaced and in its right place. l

nailing the Basics

cultural quirksin Korea and Japan, where chopsticks are the norm, it’s considered a faux pas to cross your chopsticks on the plate. So if you’re thinking of an Asian-themed table that places chopsticks in a neat ‘X’ shape, think again. likewise, serving your rice or noodles with chopsticks vertically stuffed into bowls or balanced on top is a no-go, as this is said to resemeble incense at a funeral.

by Casey Warrener

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in italy, it’s not typical to find extra cheese at the table – nor should you ask for it. covering your meal in piles of parmesan is an italiano no-no. But here at Cooked we love our cheese, and would totally understand if you wanted to serve a big ol’ bowl of grana padano with your pasta.

Making your MarkAdding your own stylistic stamp to table settings is fun, and gives you the opportunity to rebel against the stuffiness that often comes with fine dining (in all of its starched white napkin, steam-ironed tablecloth, perfectly polished glassware glory). When doing it yourself, you don’t even need to match your plates if you don’t want to. go nuts.

nApKinSScout out an embroidered set, or pimp your fabric with a few flashy napkin rings.

CroCKEryPatterned plates, bowls and ramekins will add colour and exoticism to any table.

CuTlEryInstead of basic silver, go for gold (or, even better, rose gold) with a fun Alice in Wonderland style set. Another way you can make a statement is to choose stylish shapes, or a mixed-medium set such as silverware with marble handles.

TAblECloTHS Find a fab tablecloth and the rest is easy. If you want eclectic flatware, it’s best to keep your base subdued, but feel free to go to town with vintage fabrics or bold Marimekko prints.

iT’S All in THE dETAilS…You can never go wrong with a beautiful bunch of flowers as your centrepiece, and to set the mood try adding a couple of tealight candles. Finally, make it personal by placing handcrafted name cards or your own printed menus on the table. l

in france, it’s custoMary to Place your cutlery facing downwards rather than uPwards. the reason for this is to show off the quality of the cutlery, as Most good silverware has its Markings iMPrinted on the Back.