Chronicle Oct08

Colour ChronicleA Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publicationfor the Textile, Leather, Paper & allied processing industries

29th year of publication

Number 3 | 2008TLP Division

2 colour chronicle 3 | 2008

colour chronicle 3 | 2008

Contentstextile 3

Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends Dyeing of PAC/Wo and PAC/CEL blends coldblack®: Sun Reflector – UV Protector Some facts about light fastness

leather 12 New NMP-free Aqualen® Tops by Clariant Tanicor® OS-IN p

paper 15 Cartacoat® RM rheology modifiers Strength from the inner core

GOTS approved list 19

new arrivals 20

inside views 22

gleanings from press 25

colour chronicle 3 | 2008 3

II – Two Bath Method with Modified Basic Dyes / Drimaren CL DyesFor better brilliance and high wet fastness properties we can dye this blend in two baths with modifi ed basic dyes and Drimaren CL dyes.

It is preferred to give wash with hot wash at 80°C for 10 minutes before dyeing cycle starts.

Dyeing the acrylic component with modifi ed basic dyes dyes in the 1st bath Dyebath Composition

x % modified basic dye

0.3 g/l Ekaline F.IN liq

6-8 g/l sodium sulphate anh.

0.5 g/l sodium acetate

3.5-0.5 % Retargal ANI based on acrylic component weight – Higher % for lighter depth

pH = 4.5 acetic acid 80%

Dyeing Programme

I – One Bath Method with Modified Basic Dyes for Acrylic and Indosol SF Dyes for Cellulosics

This method is only recommended for pastel and medium shades.Thiotan S liq prevents precipitation between the

cationic modifi ed basic dyes and anionic Indosol SF dyes, which may occur depending on the dyes and concentrations used.

Standard recipeIt is essential to set the dye bath in the following order:Liquor ratio: 1/10

a) 1 g/l Thiotan S liq 0.5 g/l sodium acetate Run 5-10 minutes

b) x % Modified Basic Dye Run 5-10 minutes

c) y % Indosol SF dye 6 g/l sodium sulphate anh.

d) Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5 with acetic acid.

Dyeing Programme

textile

Dyeing Methods and Dye Selection for Blends of:

Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends

Cotton

Acrylic


textile

Over Dyeing the Cotton Component with Drimaren CL Dyes in the 2nd Bath Classic Drimaren dyeing with Thiotan S liq to avoid chances of precipitation and agglomeration of leftover cationic dyestuff and Drimaren dyes (0.5 g/l)

After Treatment Rinse well Treat at 70 - 80°C for 15 mins. with: 1 g/l Lyocol OU liq pH = 9 using soda ash Rinse.Special Treatment for very High Wet Fastness Properties.After treat with Optifi x F liq

Same Method in Reverse OrderAlthough, it is economical to carry out this method in the reverse order, i.e. fi rst dyeing the viscose component with Drimaren dyes and then the PAC with modifi ed basic dyes, dyed cotton component is more heavily stained by the basic dyes while the PAC is being over dyed (mordant effect), than when dyeing according to the conventional method. For this reason, the reverse method can only be carried out with specially selected basic dyes.

As a rule, PAC/Wo blends are dyed as yarn. Special attention has to

be paid to the shrinkage. The ratio of the fi ber components, the self of wool, the felting tendency of wool and the glass transition point of the acrylic fi ber are also important factors.

The most interesting process is the possibility of dyeing this blend in one bath. It has to be borne in mind that the wool is dyed in an acid medium with anionic dyes whereas PAC is dyed with cationic dyes in same medium.

There are two problems to be solved: The prevention of precipitations between the two dye classes and the prevention of dye losses.

While many non-ionic surfactants are soluble to prevent the precipitations, it is diffi cult to achieve both aims. The cationic dye, stains the wool at low temperature and migrates on reaching the glass transition point to the acrylic fi ber. The degree of staining of the wool at the end of the dyeing depends on: Saturation of the acrylic fi ber. Depth of the shade. Cationic dyes used. Use of glauber’s salt. Use of a suitable dispersant.

The wool dyes hardly stain the PAC fi ber but are greatly hindered in exhausting onto the wool by unsuitable dispersants. Thiotan S liq achieves both aims; it disperses well and does not prevent build up on wool dyes.

The Optilan MF dyes are particularly suitable because they dye the wool at

textile

Dyeing of PAC/Wo and PAC/CEL blends

5colour chronicle 3 | 2008

the isoelectric point and level without electrolyte at a pH which corresponds exactly to the recommendation for dyeing acrylic fi bers.

Since the wool absorbs part of the acid, the pH of the bath may increase and lead to the following problems: Attack on the cationic dyes by

hydrolysis. Increase in the staining of the wool

dyes by hydrolysis. Only mediocre reproducibility of the

shade on the wool component.For this reason, we recommend adding

a little acid before the end of dyeing at 98°C or 105°C to promote exhaustion of the basic dyes on the acrylic fi ber and the wool dyes on the wool. With deep shades, it is advisable to wash off with Ekaline F.IN liq to improve the end use fastness properties.

PAC fi bers and Cotton or Viscose complete each other quite well in their physiological behavior (PAC: warm, non felting; CEL: good moisture absorption, no electrostatic charging). Due to their non-felting behavior, PAC/Co blends are becoming increasingly popular in the market. For these blends an HT dyeing is not necessary and very brilliant shades can be produced. One bath or one bath two stage processes are possible with results which meet the fastness requirements for domestic laundering.

Again the dye classes used (cotton dyes – anionic; PAC dyes – cationic dyes) pose certain problems but Clariant offers solutions with various alternatives:

textile


rinsed and washed off at 80°C with Lyocol OU liq and Ladipur RSK liq.

When dyeing the opposite way round, i.e., when the reactive dyes are applied fi rst, they act as mordant for the cationic modifi ed basic dyes because of their sulpho groups. Severe staining and poorer fastness properties on the CEL component are the result. Hot dyeing reactive (Drimaren X/XN) cannot be used for cross dyeing because of the high amount of salt and alkali required. They lead to migration and change of shade of the basic dye on the PAC component. In reversed processes where CEL component is dyed fi rst, most basic dyes also show a mordant effect on the CEL component dyed with Drimaren X dyes.

Clariant has developed a process which is based on the principle of blocking the sulpho groups of the reactive dyes by a treatment with Optifi x F liq. After this treatment the PAC component is cross dyed with modifi ed basic dyes.

An intermediate fi xation treatment with Optifi x F liq achieves two things:a) The mordanting effect is almost completely

prevented, because the strongly anionic reactive dyes on the CEL fi ber surface are neutralized by the cationic Optifi x F liq, so that afterwards when PAC component is dyed, the basic dye can no longer be adsorbed on the CEL component.

b) Treatment with Optifi x F liq also binds a portion of the unfi xed reactive dye, thus obtaining better yield and even at this point, nearly attaining the desired wet fastness properties.The over dyeing of the PAC component also acts

as a soaping bath so that the laborious conventional soaping treatment to remove the unfi xed and hydrolyzed reactive dye becomes unnecessary.

The reserve procedure also permits shading of the PAC component, which as a rule involves fewer problems than shading the CEL component.

Shade Dyes Dyeing ProcessPale modified basic One Bath dyes/Indosol SF Pale-medium modified basic One Bath dyes/Indosol SF Dark modified basic One Bath/ dyes/Indosol SF two stageBrilliant modified basic dyes/Drimaren K Two BathDark & Drimaren XN/ Two BathBrilliant modified basic dyes (fixation with Optifix F liq)

The shade and fastness properties are determined by the selection of dyes for the CEL fi ber. The economy is determined by the process.

In all one bath processes the addition of a dispersant such as Thiotan S liq paste is essential to avoid precipitations in the dye bath. At the same time Thiotan S liq improves the cellulosic fi ber reserve towards the modifi ed basic dyes.

With high dye concentrations only one bath two stage process is suitable.

The reserves of the PAC fi ber to Direct or Indosol dyes depend on the substantivity of the individual dye. The dyes for application should be selected carefully. Further, the reserve decreases with increasingly acid pH value. The addition of cationic retarders increases staining of the acrylic fi bers. The addition of glauber’s salt required for one bath exhaustion of the direct dyes has a retarding effect on the cationic dyes and therefore, increases the tendency to staining of the cellulosic fi ber.

Dyeing is carried out at pH values between 4 and 5 to exclude any hydrolysis of the cationic dyes. This may cause problems with the solubility of the direct dyes. In the one bath two stage process, special attention must be paid to the dyeing conditions which could be unfavourable for the cationic dyes. Migration of the modifi ed basic dyes is possible at 98°C in the presence of salt at a pH above 7. The pH should therefore, not rise above 6 in the second stage and the temperature not above 85°C. The presence of Thiotan S liq paste disperses any precipitations.

Brilliant shades can only be obtained with reactive dyes on the CEL component. When using the Drimaren K dyes, the PAC component is dyed fi rst as usual and then the CEL component in a fresh bath with Drimaren K dyes by one of the usual processes. These processes have very little effect on the shade of the PAC dyeing. Finally, the goods are


textile

Dark colours heat up stronger when exposed to direct sunlight compared to light colours. Many

textiles worn in the summer time or exposed to the sun offer poor protection from damaging UV rays.

In order to prevent this from occuring, we have come up with cold black process.

coldblack® combines two functions in one special fi nishing technology for textiles: – Sun Refl ector – UV Protector

Effective Heat Management Light coloured textiles refl ect both visible and

invisible rays of sunlight, meaning both heat and light.

Dark coloured textiles absorb both types of rays and therefore, absorb heat.

coldblack® reduces this absorption of heat rays particularly in the case of darker colours and in all types of textiles.

The result is tangibly better heat management.

Without coldblack®

Dark textiles without coldblack® absorb heat.

With coldblack®

Dark textiles with coldblack® refl ect heat.

coldblack®: Sun Reflector – UV Protector

Reliable Protection from UV Rays Many textiles worn in the summer time or exposed

to the sun offer poor protection from damaging UV rays.

The coldblack® technology guarantees a minimum UPF 30+ protection when applied to any textile** in any colour without affecting the look or feel of the product.

The UV protection factor (UPF) gives an indication of how much longer someone using coldblack®

textiles can remain in the sun without incurring any skin damage. The calculations were based on the so-called self-protection time of the skin, which varies according to individual skin type.

** Important: The UPF value can vary depending on structure, thickness and material. It relates to closed textile surfaces. For this reason, the UPF factor needs to be determined on the different textiles. From a minimum of UPF 30+, coldblack®conformity is guaranteed.

Skin Types with varying Degrees of Self-protection

Skin Description Sunburn risk in hightype summer midday afterI Pale skin with freckles approx. 5 to 10 minutes blonde or red hair

II Pale skin and blonde hair approx. 10 to 20 minutes blue or green eyes

III Medium skin dark hair approx. 20 to 30 minutes and brown eyes

IV Naturally dark skin black approx. 40 minutes or dark hair brown eyes

coldblack® - Practical examples

Skin Protection with coldblack® textilestype (UPF 30+)UPF x self-protection of skinI 150 to 300 minutes = 2.5 h to 5 h until skin reddens

II 300 to 600 minutes = 5 h to 10 h until skin reddens

III 600 to 900 minutes = 10 h to 15 h until skin reddens

IV 1200 minutes = 20 h until skin reddens


textile

“bluesign® Approved” Components The coldblack®

fi nishing only contains “bluesign approved” components.

“bluesign approved” components are as low as possible in harmful substances, making them benign to mankind and the environment and encouraging the economical and ecological use of resources in the production process.

Coldblack® – Advantages at a Glance Less sweat. Increased concentration. Higher performance. Greater comfort. Increased endurance. Minimum UPF 30+. No adverse effect on looks, feel or breathability. Function lasts through numerous washing and

cleaning processes. Finish comprises “bluesign approved”

components.

Following are the wide range of applications and lifestyle categories, which provide added comfort due to coldblack®: outdoor bike sportswear workwear uniforms merchandising tents umbrellas

coldblack®-Reliable Protection from UV RaysWithout coldblack®

Light coloured textiles without Coldblack® allow UV-rays to penetrate

With coldblack®

Light coloured textiles with coldblack® signifi cantly reduce UV-rays from penetration

Examples for UV Protection measures and their UV Protection factors UV protection UV protection measures factor

Shade under a parasol without special UV protection appox. 5

Shade under a tree approx. 10

Light cotton clothing approx. 10

Sun cream with correct application 0 to 30

Thick cotton clothing without coldblack® approx. 20+

Textiles with coldblack® minimum 30+

Many textiles equipped with coldblack® demonstrate a UV protection factor of over UPF 50.

coldblack® - Advantages Optimal Protection from Heating-up due to

SunlightBecause textiles fi nished with coldblack® heatup less in all colours compared with material without a coldblack® fi nish.

Textiles stay Cool to the TouchWhen applied to clothing, this means that the wearer perspires less, feels better and is capable of greater performance.

Reliable protection from UV rays (minimum UPF 30+)

– Protection from UV-A rays and UV-B rays.– UV-A rays accelerate the agingof the skin.– UV-B rays cause a pigment

change that result in long term browning. Without effective UPF protection (Ultraviolet Protection Factor), aggressive oxygen molecules are released which cause sunburn or which can lead to the formation of melanoma.

textile


Today’s high consumer quality awareness in an ever so competitive

textile environment, need special products to meet the ever growing demands. Especially in terms of trendy wash and wear, easy care and soft touch products (with the increasing use of micro-fi ber articles), highest levels of colour fastness are required. With the Foron®S-WF dyestuffs, an evolution of the Foron®S-type disperse dyes (pioneered by us in the 1950’s when still operating under the former Sandoz name), we do not only meet these requirements, but today can offer a conclusive range of dyestuffs, which are able to cover the full scope of fashion shades. Foron®S-WF with its market leading colour fastness levels and highest sublimation fastness enhances today’s textile products in the apparel, workwear and sportswear segments, whilst giving textile producers state-of-the-art process and environmental security.

Clariant’s especially developed products and processes for colourfast Polyester include: A complete range of colourfast

dyestuffs; Foron®SWF gives excellent wet-fastness levels, with highest sublimation fastness.

The necessary auxiliaries needed for reproducible and reliable dyeing e.g. Dispersing agent Lyocol®RDN liquid and Acid buffer Opticid®PSD liquid.

Recommended pre-treatment, dyeing and after-treatment processes in exhaust and continuous dyeing.

Dyestuff criteria for high wet-fastness polyester and blends: High operational reliability Very good dispersion stability High to very high sublimation

fastnesses for yarns and tops High stability in further processing

steps (e.g. reactive dyeing) Processing requirements (e.g. for post-

setting) Full scope of elements to cover fashion

shades

In Love with FashionDyestuff range: Foron®S-WF

PropertiesThe Foron®S-WF dyes are elements with the following special properties: Highest sublimation fastness, therefore,

ideal range for yarn dyeing as well as for continuous applications (Thermosol dyeing) and for printing

Highest wet fastness level after post-setting (mode of action: increase of water solubility in alkaline fastness testing liquors, but keeping the chromophore intact)

Easy clearable (high alkaline solubility, therefore, no reductive clearing necessary for articles with little to moderate staining like e.g. PES/CEL blends; reductive clearing is, however, necessary for articles with heavy staining like blends with Spandex®+, Lycra®+, XLA®+etc.)

Foron® Golden Yellow S-WF

0.08% 0.27% 0.80% 2.40%

Foron® Red S-WF

0.19% 0.60% 1.80% 5.40%

Foron® Rubine S-WF

0.40% 0.95% 2.84% 8.52%

Foron® Brilliant Yellow S-WF

0.14% 0.44% 1.32% 4.00%

Foron® Scarlet S-WF

0.09% 0.31% 0.92% 2.76%

Scope of ApplicationThe Foron®S-WF dyes are recommended for the following applications: Exhaust dyeing of PES/CEL (SWIFT

exhaust process), PES/XLA, PES/CEL/XLA®+ and PES articles that are being post-set (knitwear) and/or that require above average wet fastness (sportswear)

Continuous dyeing of PES/CEL (SWIFT continue process), PES/CEL/XLA®+ and PES articles

Printing of PES, PES/XLA®+ and PES/PUE articles

®+ XLA is an elastic polyethylene fiber and is a trade mark of DOW Chemicals.

Foron® Violet S-WF

0.09% 0.32% 0.95% 2.85%

Foron® Cyanine S-WF

0.13% 0.32% 0.97% 2.90%

Foron® Blue S-WF

0.10% 0.21% 0.63% 1.90%

Foron® Navy S-WF

0.09% 0.35% 1.06% 3.18%

Foron® Black S-WF

0.12% 0.39% 1.18% 3.54%

title


Textile Dyes and Pigments used in the industry vary to a great extent in terms of their

resistance to light sources and this phenomenon is called as ‘Light-fastness of Textiles’.

Sunlight materials electromagnetic radiations of several wavelengths. Visible range of spectrum (400 - 700 nm), ultraviolet (300 - 400 nm) and infra red (700 - 1400 nm) become the main constituents which reach to the earth’s surface.

Coloured materials like Textile, Leather and Paper when subjected to the photons generated from the sunlight have tendency to destroy the colouring constituents of dyes and pigments. Further prolonged exposure may even cause destruction to the substrate itself. Partial destruction of the colouring material in dyes and pigment is known as fading. The other detrimental effect could be change of tone or change of brilliance of the colour.

A consumer when buys an apparel is attracted to the colours and if this colour is altering / fading during usage or laundering, the consumer gets frustrated, so it is our responsibility to safeguard and guide the processor about the fading behavior of a dye/pigment applied on the substrate.

There are many factors infl uencing the light fastness behavior. Substrate and their diffusion properties. Substrate preparation. Chemical nature of the fi ber. Method of the application. Delusterants in the substrate. Finishing chemicals applied.

Usage of the article. Dye-fi xers used. Choice of colours and their combination. Perspiration and exposure to light. Prolonged exposure to light. Oxidative or reductive nature of dye fading

reaction.Unfortunately, the tag labels on articles do give

wash instruction but the guidance and sustainability of the article to multiple exposures to light are not so popular. There are hardly any indicators to guide the consumer regarding the resistance of the article towards sunlight fading.

Uncontrollable Factors Content of UV amount in the sunlight: As more

is the UV component more photons of their light and more will be the effect on colour with respect to fading.

The intensity of temperature from the sunlight falling on the article.

Relative Humidty Higher the humidity, higher could be fading.

This factor has impact on the wet-light fastness and hence fading in varying humid environments come into the picture.

Atmospheric contaminations. Amount and quality of perspiration also play a

crucial role in deciding the amount of fading. Laundering pattern. Repeated laundering and exposure to sunlight

or a single exposure to sunlight also affects the degree of fading.

Some Guidelines Higher the depth, better the light fastness. Only right choice of colours can help in getting

better light fastness and any corrective actions would fail to improve the light fastness.

Right choice of textile chemicals to ensure that no detrimental effect of them on the light fastness of dyed articles occur.

When use of more than one colour is made in making a shade, the fi nal light fastness of the article will be based on the lowest light fastness constituent of the dye in the recipe. This is more important when we want to ensure on-tone behavior of fading after exposure to light (one component fading to smaller extent will give a further ugly appearance to the shade than one with on-tone fading).

Some Facts about Light Fastness

textile

leather

State-of-the-art technology for todays’ leather fi nishing is based on aqueous products. Clariant’s

efforts to reduce VOC in fi nishing products have led to a new solution within the Aqualen® Top Coat range.

Great variety of gloss levels can be reached by combining Aqualen® Top DC-2050 (dull) and Aqualen® Top GC-2051 (glossy). This new generation of easy to handle top coats are distinguished by a perfect balance of high performance and excellent aesthetics. Most different looks and feels can be generated using this product mix alone or in combination with other ecologically-friendly Aqualen®/Melio® Tops and/or the versatile Melio® WF feel additive range. This enables the fi nisher to cover a wide range of leather articles. The still widely used nitro/emulsion lacquer product can be partly replaced – a further step towards VOC reduction in leather fi nishing.

Especially developed for high gloss shoe upper leathers is Aqualen® Top GC-2030.A. Leathers top coated with Aqualen® Top GC-2030.A are distinguished by a very natural and casein-like look and surface feel together with high wet rub properties. Additionally, Aqualen® Top GC-2031 is suitable for shoe upper leathers and for high gloss fancy and upholstery leathers as well, where even higher physicals are requested. Both products are plateable at high temperatures and show a very good intercoat adhesion together with very good milling behavior.

For aqueous patent leather imitations Clariant offers the new Aqualen® Top LN.A. This new ecological top coat product is developed to meet highest requirements of both, gloss level and physicals. Leathers fi nished with Aqualen® Top LN.A, an aqueous, modifi ed, aliphatic polyurethane dispersion, show beautiful brilliance and depth of gloss. The application can be done either by reverse roller coater or by spraying technology. This new and really helpful characteristic offers quite a lot of options to the fi nisher.

New NMP-free Aqualen® Tops by Clariant

Aqualen® Tops: The ecological solution for

perfect leather finishing


leather

Tanicor® OS-IN p can also be used with Clariant’s other “Low Free-Formaldehyde” products to produce various leather articles. For the complete list of Clariant’s “Low Free-Formaldehyde” products, please refer our product guide.

Our technical service team would be happy to be at your service for the development of “Low Free-Formaldehyde” systems, with Tanicor® OS-IN p.

Suggested usage of Tanicor® OS-IN p in retannage:

1. For Upper Leathers : 6 to 10%2. For Clothing Nappa : 4 to 6%3. For Cow Bag Leather : 3 to 5%

Formaldehyde as a raw material is widely used in the manufacture of leather chemicals for condensation of various monomers like phenol, naphthalene, urea, etc.

Tanicor® OS-IN p


“Low Free-Formaldehyde” Replacement Syntan

Features Low in “Free-Formaldehyde” content Versatile replacement syntan suitable for

all type of leather Good fullness coupled with grain

tightness Uniform Dyeability Can be used for dark and pastel shades as

well.

Leather traded with Tanicor® OS-IN p can pass various specifi cations of “low-free-formaldehyde” limits when tested by DIN 53315.


paper

Strength from the Inner CoreDry strength solutions by Clariant

Growing use of Recycled Fiber

A large quantity of waste paper and board is recycled, providing a relatively

cheap source of cellulosic fi ber raw material for papermaking. Unfortunately, the quality of fi ber in wastepaper is deteriorating, due to increased recycling, and the dry strength of a paper sheet inevitably suffers as a consequence.

Dry Strength Additives neededDry strength additives have been available in the paper industry for many years. Natural polymers such as starch, either in its native or chemically modifi ed form, have been employed relatively successfully, due to their availability and low cost.

Paper makers around the world want to raise the standards associated with dry strength, closer to the values achieved with virgin fi ber. At the same time, they work at lowering the basis weight of a paper sheet, whilst maintaining an acceptable level of strength, aiming at major cost benefi ts and reducing of the impact of high energy prices.

Starch has its DrawbacksThere has been a temptation to add excessively high amounts of starch because, although low in cost, the strength performance of starch is between 5 and 10 times less than a synthetic dry strength polymer, on a dry basis. Starch, even in its cationized form, has a limited affi nity for paper fi bers and large quantities of

solubilized material remain in the water circuits of the paper machine, where they act as nutrients for bacteria and interfere with the affi nity of other paper making additives. In the tissue industry, the rigidity of starch polymers has a negative infl uence on softness and dusting.

Clariant’s Cationic Polymers SolutionAchim Kohler (Clariant, Germany) remembers: “Back in 2004/2005, we identifi ed the growing problems with the fi ber quality of the waste paper. We therefore decided to address the customers’ needs for low cationic, highly concentrated and effi cient products with good absorption. In particular, the low cationic charge of the new products developed was intended to prevent the fi ber charge from fl ipping to cationic from anionic.”

Newborn in the Range, Cartabond® 0701E liquidThe most recently developed product of the range, Cartabond 0701E liquid, is a dry strength additive for stock application under neutral to alkaline paper making conditions. It is suitable for all paper and board grades but especially benefi cial where recycled fi ber is the main raw material. Typical examples are brown packaging papers manufactured from old corrugated containers (OCC), tissue produced by fully bleached virgin or recycled fi bers. All strength parameters can be improved, including burst, tensile, SCT and CMT.

Mode of ActionA combination of ionic and hydrogen bonding is responsible for the superior strength. Starch relies almost entirely on hydrogen bonding for strength development but ionic bonding, which is up to fi ve times stronger, allows enhanced performance. In addition, Cartabond 0701E liquid has strong affi nity for cellulosic fi bers and is, therefore, perfectly suited to wet-end application.

Ahead of the Trend, Indian Product Cartabond SR 100 liquid Cartabond SR 100 liquid is a local alternative to Cartabond 0701E liquid available in India. It is a liquid dry strength resin offering improved tensile strength, stiffness and burst factor and is specifi cally recommended for stiffness improvement in copier paper as well as coated paperboards. It can also replace starch, whilst unlike starch, Cartabond SR 100 liquid is not susceptible to microbial attack, thereby eliminating the need for preservatives as well as environmental concerns.

Back in 2004, Indian papermakers were actually a bit in advance in the demand for an alternative to strarch. Cartabond SR 100 liquid was developed to answer the need. As Rajinikanth Prasad (Clariant, India) recalls: “we developed a liquid form for a specifi c customer – which happened to be a clear advantage for our local customers”!


paper

More than just Rheology Modifers

Producing coated paper and board for end-products with a high quality level

needs chemicals that can really do the job.Cartacoat RM is an exclusive range of rheology

modifers, which allows control of high shear and low shear viscosity and water retention to achieve superior runability and optimum coating colour rheology. Cartacoat RM products can be used for instance for blade coating or MSP applications with all kind of paper and board grades.

The Cartacoat RM series combines the features expected from such products, whilst allowing substantial savings in your production costs.

Optimized ChemistryThe thickening mechanism of Cartacoat RM rheology modifiers, as shown in the illustration below, comprises of two steps: Expansion of macro-chains, due to high

electrostatic charge repulsion Inter-molecular attraction facilitates formation

of a 3-D network

“Less-is-More” effect Cartacoat RM products replace conventional

synthetic rheology modifiers with lower blade pressure, allowing increased coater speed.

Cartacoat RM products make it possible to increase the dry solid content of the coating colour, with a positive effect on optical and printing properties.

Cartacoat RM products can replace CMC partially or totally, offering the possibility to in-crease the amount of PVOH or starch as an OBA carrier, in order to improve whiteness.

Signifcant Benefits for your System Up to 30 % cost savings in thickener system Improved coating colours and runability

- Lower dosage needed to reach the targeted Brookfield viscosity

- Better high shear profile- Improved water retention at lower dosage

Improved paper and print quality- Positive effect on paper gloss- Slightly improved smoothness- Other properties equal (mottling, ink

absorption and surface strength)

Carbon groupHydrophobic group

The effect of Cartacoat RM products on viscosity and shear rates can be seen on the graph at the adjacent.

More than just Rheology Modifersroducing coated paper and board for

“Less-is-More” effectCartacoat RM products replace conventional

Cartacoat® RM Rheology Modifiers

Dynamic Water Retention

Low shear viscosity High shear viscosity Water retention Dosing levels (*)

Cartacoat RM 8 0.5 – 2.0




= high influence = medium influence = some influence = no influence

(*) parts per 100 parts pigments as it is

paper

Complete Range for Every Specific NeedCartacoat RM 8 liquidCartacoat RM 8 liquid is a water retention aid for paper and board coating colour with small effect on low shear and high shear viscosity. Cartacoat RM 8 liquid improves the paper properties by reducing water penetration into the base sheet. Cartacoat RM 8 liquid is FDA and BfR compliant.

Cartacoat RM 12 liquidCartacoat RM 12 liquid allows good water retention and increases both low and high shear viscosity.

Cartacoat RM 15 liquidCartacoat RM 15 liquid is especially suitable in the manufacturing of coated board and packaging paper, offering a good balance between Brookfield viscosity and water retention. Cartacoat RM 15 liquid is FDA and BfR compliant.

Cartacoat RM 20 liquidCartacoat RM 20 liquid shows optimal high shear properties with high Brookfield viscosity. Small dosing levels are needed. Cartacoat RM 20 liquid has low influence on high shear viscosity and low blade pressure.

World-class Laboratory FacilitiesFrom laboratory studies to pilot coating trial

to mill trial, our laboratory facilities in France offer high-end equipment and expertise.

( )

DT coater

ACAV

ÅA-GWR



GOTS approved list

Name dye/Proc. aid Date of Approved approval Yes / No

Imerol NLF. IN liq [ Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes(Sandoclean NLF. IN liq) ]

Leomin PNLI liq [ Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes(Sandosoft PNLI liq) ]

Ceralube JNF. IN liq 22/01/2008 YesFormerly (Sandolube JNF. IN liq)

Ceralube HD. IN liq 22/01/2008 YesFormerly (Sandolube HD. IN liq)

Imerol MWP liq c [ Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes(Sandoclean MWP liq c) ]

Ladipur SN liq [ Formerly 22/01/2008 Yes(Sandopur SN liq) ]

Optisul HSI liq 22/01/2008 YesFormerly (Sandozol HSI liq)

Stabilizer SIFA. IN lq 11/02/2008 Yes

Imerol SR liq 11/02/2008 Yes

Stabilizer SOF. IN liq 11/02/2008 Yes

Diresul Black RDT-S-IN liq 11/02/2008 YesFormerly (Diresul Black RDT liq)

Drimaren Blue HF-2B cdg 12/02/2008 Yes

Ladipur R3C. IN ip liq 12/02/2008 Yes

Drimaren Navy CL-R p 12/02/2008 Yes

Arkofil PVS p 13/03/2008 Yes

Arkofil S 100 p 13/03/2008 Yes

Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq 13/03/2008 Yes

Result of Assessment of Dye / Processing aid for the use in EKO Sustainable Textile Standard (GOTS system)

Global Organic Textile Standard


Ceranine SWPI liq 25/06/2007 Yes

Diresul Antioxidant PRM liq 25/06/2007 Yes

Drimaren Turquoise CL-B p 13/03/2007 Yes

Sirrix 2 UD. IN liq 13/08/2007 Yes

Drimaren Navy X-GN. IN 06/09/2007 Yes

Drimaren Red X-6 BN p 06/09/2007 Yes

Drimaren Yellow X-4RNI p 06/09/2007 Yes

Leonil UH liq 06/09/2007 Yes

Sirrix Antox IN liq 06/09/2007 Yes

Imacol C2G.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes

Sirrix N liq c 12/10/2007 Yes

Ceraperm K.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes

Stabilizer AWN.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes

Stabilizer FCB.IN liq c 12/10/2007 Yes

Sirrix SB.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes

Appretan ECO liq 12/10/2007 Yes

Imerol XN.IN liq 04/08/2007 Yes

Rintofix Thickener CA liq 13/11/2007 Yes

Revatol S.IN p 13/11/2007 Yes

Sirrix N liq 13/11/2007 Yes

Stabilizer SIFAM.IN liq 13/11/2007 Yes

Printofix Binder 1912 PLUS 14/12/2007 Yes

Printofix Binder ITL liq 14/12/2007 Yes

Hostapal DTC. IN liq 22/01/2008 YesFormerly (Sandopan DTC. IN liq)

The latest version of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

launched in June, sees some signifi cant changes for the wet processors of organic textiles. The changes note as follows: Optical brighteners are now allowed

to be used, allowing all retailers to produce organic cotton products in a bright white.

Quaternary ammonium compounds – which are known to improve the colour fastness of dyed goods - are prohibited except for auxilaries used during the dyeing process, provided they meet all other GOTS criteria.

Heavy metals are prohibited with a specifi c exception for copper metal


Ceraperm AQUA liq 13/03/2008 Yes

Drimaren Red CL BL 13/03/2008 Yes

Drimaren Red CL-B p 13/03/2008 Yes

Drimaren Yellow CL-R p 13/03/2008 Yes

Ladiquest DWA liq 13/03/2008 Yes

Leomin SFC liq 13/03/2008 Yes

Printofix Navy R-B 13/03/2008 Yes

Printofix Violet R-B 13/03/2008 Yes

Printofix Black R-NG liq 13/11/2007 Yes

Printofix Blue R-BN 20/03/2007 Yes

Ceraperm TSLF liq 11/06/2008 Yes

Ceraperm 3P liq hc 11/06/2008 Yes

Reductor D. IN p 11/06/2008 Yes

Stabilizer 3Z liq 11/06/2008 Yes

Sirrix SAI liq c 12/06/3008 Yes

Hostalux ETB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes

Leucophor BMF. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes

Leucophor BMB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes

Leucophor BFB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes

Appretan PUL liq 29/07/2008 Yes

Ceraperm MN liq 29/07/2008 Yes

Mercerol QWNI. IN liq 29/07/2008 Yes

Mercerol RWLF liq 29/07/2008 Yes

Sirrix CPA liq 29//07/2008 Yes

Sirrix USB liq 29/07/2008 Yes

complex dyes to produce blue, green and turquoise shades to a depth of 5% owf.The above clauses are to be reviewed

in two years from date of adoption. If, at that time, copper complex dyes are no longer permitted this would cause a problem for dyers producing the shades mentioned and would therefore limit the shades available for the retailers of organic products. Another change of note is that acceptable levels of formaldehyde on organic textiles have been reduced from 20 mg/kg to 16 mg/kg in line with Japanese law.

There is also a clause not to allow products with the following risk phrases:

R50, very toxic to aquatic organisms; R51, toxic to aquatic organisms; R52, harmful to aquatic organism; R53, may cause long term adverse effects in the aquatic environment. However, GOTS states that as R51-R53 may lead to a loss in dyeing quality, the use of these will be optional until the next revision of the standard. This is a confusing situation that may leave many dyers unclear about the dyes and chemicals that can be used; it is recommended that in the certifi cation process these parameters should be controlled, documented and reported.

source: www.colourclick.org; GOTS v 2.0 is available at:

www.global-standard.org


new arrivals

Foron® Scarlet S-WFHigh wet fast disperse dye for red and scarlet shades suitable for dyeing polyester and its blends.

Product Performance High wet fastness. Low staining on

multifi ber even on post heat set fabric. Can be applied in exhaust, printing and

continuous application. Main element for wet fast fi re shade in

combination with Foron Brilliant Yellow S-WF, Foron Golden Yellow S-WF, and Foron Red S-WF.

High sublimation fastness even at 210°C. Good dispersing and leveling properties.

Foron® Violet S-WFHigh wet fast disperse dye for violet shades suitable for dyeing polyester and its blends.Product Performance High wet fastness. Low staining on

multifi ber even on post heat set fabric. Can be applied in exhaust, printing and

continuous application. Main element for wet fast violet and purple

shade in combination with Foron Blue S-WF and Foron Rubine S-WF.

High sublimation fastness even at 210°C. Good dispersing and leveling properties.

Printofix® Red T-BBright Red Dispersion from Global Printofix RangeProduct Performance Highly concentrated pigment. Good dispersion stability even below 0°C. Very little infl uence on viscosity of

synthetic thickener. High dry cleaning fastness. High thermal stability. Suitable for discharge printing.

Suitable for all types of printing application i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent base.

Does not contribute in gelling of printing paste.

Printofix® Yellow T-CLemon Yellow Dispersion from Global Printofix Range.Product Performance Bright lemon yellow shade. High pigment concentration. Very little infl uence on viscosity of

synthetic thickener. High dry cleaning fastness. High thermal stability. Suitable for discharge printing. Suitable for all types of printing application

i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent base.

Does not contribute in gelling of printing paste.

Additions in Local Range Global LaunchesAfilan® PSE liquid Afi lan® PSE liq. is a spin fi nish suitable for polyamide 6 and 6.6 high tenacity industrial yarns for example tyre-cord, tarpaulins, seat belts, conveyer belts etc. Afi lan PSE liq. is a proprietory blend of heat stable lubricants, emulsifi ers and antistats. Is usually applied as an aqueous

solution (e.g. 15-25 %) with the usual devices.

Is a very thermostable spin fi nish.

Forms very low smoke and shows nearly no deposits on the godets.

Runs well in drawing processes and has a good fi ber/fi ber cohesion.

Owns excellent wetting and spreading properties.

Afilan® ONE liq Easy applicable fi ber fi nish and lubricant for use in fi ber manufacturing of polysulfonamide and aramide fi bers. Excellent lubricating properties. Good antistatic properties. Improves fi ber/fi ber cohesion and

reduces fi ber/metal friction. Excellent wetting properties. Good thermostability. Each component of this

formulation is listed in one or several parts of 21.CFR.170-199 (FDA).


Foron® Black AS-3LFNew disperse black Dyestuff for high-fast applications. High light-fast and hot-light-fast black

disperse dyestuff. High strength (30%

stronger than Foron Black AS-LF) and build-up.

Neutral shade under different light sources (D65/TL84/A).

Low colour fading post exposure. Suitable for all commonly required

automotive light-fastness standards. Excellent sublimation fastness upto

180°C/30sec. Very good combinability with UV-

absorbers (Fadex®). Suitable as base element for Coldblack®

applications.

Foron® Dark Blue S-WFNew disperse blue dyestuff for high wet-fast applications. High wet-fast dark blue disperse

dyestuff. Excellent build-up. Neutral (greenish) shade . No reddish fl are under artifi cial light

sources (TL84/CWF). Excellent cotton reserve. Good clearability above pH 9. Leading sublimation fastness upto

210°C/30sec., (rating 4.9 GS).

Eganal® PLM liquidNew dyeing assistant for exhaust dyeing of polyester and its blends with cellulosic fi bers injets and package dyeing machines under HT conditions. Improves dispersion stability of the

dyes in the bath. Ensures good penetration and increased

colour yield. Improves coverage of materials with

different affi nity.

Allows to reduce the dyeing time and/or the dyeing temperature.

Improves the reservation of the cellulosic part by dyeing polyester/cellulose blends.

Improves the in-out levelness in package dyeing mac hines.

Is suitable for levelling and partial stripping of faulty dyeings.

Does not affect the wet fastnesses and has no or minimal effect on the usual light fastness.

Does not develop an unpleasant odor during dyeing or drying.

Is non foaming.

Arkofix® ELF liq conc Ultra low formaldehyde containing cross linking agent for the easy care fi nishing of textiles of cellulosic fi bers and their blends with synthetic fi bers. Has a free formaldehyde content below

0.1 %. Produces particularly low formaldehyde

fi nishing effects. Meets the requirements of consumer labels such as Eco-Tex Standard 100 for textiles worn next to the skin (<75 ppm formaldehyde on the goods). This applies particularly to the assessment methods as described in Japan Law 112-1973.

Imparts excellent crease and shrink-resistant properties to textiles of cellulosic fi bers and their blends.

Gives excellent strength retention and therefore is recommended for application to knitwear and lighter cotton articles.

On 100% cotton the fi nishing effects are not stable to chlorine.

Nuva® 1910 liqNuva® 1910 liq is an economical but highly effi cient fi nishing product for durable oil

and water-repellent fi nishes on textiles made from cellulosic as well as synthetic fi bers and their blends. Fluorocarbon technology with a

polyamide based cationic copolymer. This copolymer improves signifi cantly

the effi ciency of fl uorocarbons. Economical product to achieve high

water and oil repellency. Provides excellent initial repellencies

as well as good durability. Excellent product to be incorporated

into a resin fi nishing bath. Shows high compatibility with fi nishing

chemicals and fi re retardants. Provides a relatively soft handle. Mainly recommended for cellulose

based fi bers. Cationic.

Solusoft® FE liquidA special silicone macro emulsion for padding. Best rubbing fastness level on pigment printed textiles. Supplies specifi c “glacier” handfeel. Elegant surface smoothness. Improves rubbing fastness (dry and

wet) of pigment printed fabrics. Best silicone softener to improve

sewing properties. Nonionic character, thus no yellowing

on white. No infl uence on thermomigration. Improves elasticity and resilience of

knitwear. Highly wash stable. Improves technological properties

in resin fi nish such as tear strength, abrasion.

Improves crease recovery angles and DP-rate in resin fi nish.

Recommended to use in acidic conditions ( pH <6).

inside views

Technical Conferences during the Last

The Ludhiana Meet participants.A.K. Prasad interacting with customers in Kolhapur.

P. Gayatri being welcomed by Mr. A. Karmarkar at Kolhapur Meet.


fabric, chemicals from Clariant’s range enhance both the physical appearance and performance of the end–product.

Mr. Jochen Schmidt, Head, Business Line Functional Effects, Clariant International Ltd., discussed in detail about the various products which can be offered to the processors in Surat. He highlighted on the ‘Emerging Trends in Finishing with Clariant’s Technology’, consisting of silicone based products like, concentrated specialty fi nishing agents which can be easily diluted and used as in-house formulations to a high cost advantage. Mr. Schmidt also highlighted on the Technical Textiles and stressed on the concept of Flame Retardants and Stain Management.

Kolkata, June 24, 2008An this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized that Clariant offers complete solutions for the processing of knits, garment washing, pigment printing and in jute related processing. He stressed on the benefi ts of Ecoswat Concept, highlighting the

Technological Skills and Partnerships based on active dialogue with customers are key elements

in the building of a successful relationship. Keeping this as the focus various technical conferences were held all over the country as narrated below:

Surat, June 19, 2008 At the conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, Country Head of Textile, Leather & Paper Chemicals Division, Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, emphasized that Clariant has developed cost effective processing packages for polyester dyeing, printing and fi nishing chemicals. Ecological demands are also being catered to by our experts. Clariant has also introduced innovative fi nishes like moisture management, which gives polyester a comfortable feel, while imparting a protective fi nish against bacteria and fungi. Fluorocarbons from Clariant, speciality silicones and innovative prints like gold zari were elaborated upon during the conference. With the textile and apparel industry always on the lookout for new fi nishes and aesthetic values on the

QuarterAsis Patnaik at the Bengaluru Meet.Detailed analysis in Bengaluru.


Jochen Schmidt at the Surat Meet.

use of right technology for optimization of energy, water and effl uent management. He explained the Black Magic Process, which is a bleaching concept involving process effi ciency with economy using ecological concept. He discussed in detail the garment washing process using biotechnology, wherein he enlightened the customers with the enzyme processing of the garments. He also highlighted the leaning of prossessors towards the latest trends in Technical Textiles offered by Clariant, such as ultra low formaldehyde based binders, non-PFOA concept of fl uorocarbons. Effect labels from Clariant were also touched upon in the presentation.

Ludhiana, July 31, 2008At this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad emphasized that Clariant offers complete solutions for the processing of knits, garment washing, enzyme technology, denim washing and related technologies. Drimaren Dyes were offered as a solution for all the problems related to the Dyeing technology. He

discussed the problems related to effl uent treatment. He discussed in detail the garment washing process incorporating biotechnology, wherein he enlightened the customers with the enzyme processing of the garments. The new concepts such as Cold Black and Nanosphere by Clariant were discussed during the meet. Concept of REACH was explained to the customers. Mr. Prasad also discussed with the customers, the main reasons for price increase and ensured them that Clariant will always be with the customers in these diffi cult times.

Kolhapur, August 4, 2008At this conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized that Clariant offers complete Solutions for Sizing and technologies related to entire processing of textile. He discussed about the new applications in sizing and also the GOTS approved products related to sizing. Technologies for continuous processings such as bleaching, dyeing and fi nishing were highlighted upon along with speciality fi nishes. He stressed that Clariant has a wide range of products


inside views

and depending upon consumer needs Clariant can offer cost and process effective recipes. Clariant is shortly launching GOTS certifi ed amylase Bactosol MTO for organic cotton processing. He discussed about the special areas of hydrophilic silicones and lubricants offered by Clariant. Specialty areas such as ultra low formaldehyde based binders; anti-microbial solutions and the non-PFOA concept of fl uorocarbons were discussed.

Varanasi, August 22, 2008 Here, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, said that Clariant has developed cost effective processing packages for dyeing, printing and fi nishing chemicals. Clariant not only helps in setting-up the processes or the chemistry involved for textile processing, but also updates its customers on the “how-to-do-it” ecologically, economically, effi ciently and in an environment friendly manner. He stressed on Clariant’s role in reaching out to its customers as well as their end-consumer.

Chandigarh, July 24, 2008During this conference, Mr. Anjani Prasad, emphasized that Clariant has been playing a crucial role in offering technology and new products for value addition. Clariant has been offering eco-friendly dyes and chemicals. Clariant is well-known as a quality supplier having complete range of specialty chemicals for almost all the fi bers. Highly skilled technicians from Clariant are at arms length to solve day to day problems of the textile processors. Mr. Prasad enlightened the processors about new product processes, technology, innovations and specialty needs for exports. We believe in providing solutions than selling products, was his key mantra. He stressed on the fact that the techno economy of a processor is always at the back of our mind while making recommendations.

Mr. Shailesh Moolya, in-charge, Technical Promotion of Wool/Silk/Nylon Dyes and Chemicals, explained in detail about the technology of silk processing and how Clariant is with the customer right from dye dissolution, printing, steaming upto the washing-off of silk.

Bengaluru, August 26, 2008 Mr. Asis Patnaik, Head, Functional Effects and Polymer Dispersion, Textile Business, Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, spoke on the topic, “Polymer Dispersion – Yesterday and Tomorrow”. He explained about the requirements in an emulsion, for the future. According to Mr. Patnaik, the perfect product for tomorrow would include a Controlled Particle Size, Bimodal Particles with High Solid Content, Low Volatile Organic Compounds and Controlled Molecular Weight Products. He discussed the history and future of various emulsions and their applications including the Nano emulsions.

Anjani Prasad, Head - TLP Division, India, at the Ludhiana Meet.

Mr. Anup K. Baranwal (Authorised distributor, CCIL - Textile Business) started looking after the family business at the tender age of 16 years when his father fell seriously ill.

In the course he took distribution agency of Sandoz (India) Ltd. in year 1992. The average sale of the company in Bhadohi / Mirzapur region was only 40 lacs per annum. Mr. Baranwal gradually increased the sale to Rs. 2.35 crores per annum by the year 2006. The level of sale of Rs. 2 crores was maintained despite turbulences in the market.

Mr. Anup’s demise has created a big vacuum in the family and it will be a tough task to live up to his performance. We are confi dent that in these distinct times his dedicated employees will maintain the momentum generated by him and increase the success of his company.

We pray to the almighty to give peace to the departed soul.

Late Mr. Anup Kumar Baranwal (Proprietor, M/s. Prabha Colour Company).Left to Heavenly Abode on July 22, 2008.

gleanings from press

Textiles: The Silent WitnessFibers Fabrics / Garments

Sometimes, the victim’s clothing is one of the few clues left to tell us what happened. “In cases where, the body of the victim has been buried for some years, and only the (victim’s) skeleton remains, elements of the victim’s clothing may have survived. This clothing can be examined for cuts and tears, bullet holes, and other penetration wounds. Such evidence may assist the coroner with establishing the cause of death and the weapon used,” notes Mike Pailthorpe, Senior Consultant for the Food and Textiles group of the Sydney, Australia.

Antimicrobal Finish exhibits Washfastness with no BinderSanitized Silver works by damaging the cell membranes and inhibiting the growth and reproduction of bacteria responsible for odor development in textiles. The fi nish was developed specifi cally for use on synthetic fi bers. The company says these fi bers, especially polyester, are the preferred material for sport, leisure, and work wear – all sectors which demand high wash resistance. It claims that “upto 100 washing cycles at 60°C are possible without impairing the hygienic function (of the fi nish)”. Sanitized Silver can be applied to the textile by exhaust or pad processes, making it suitable for fully-fashioned knitwear and other fabric or apparel. It can also be combined with other textile effects.

While fabrics and fi nished textile products are often valuable evidence, the most important textile witnesses are fi bers. “Most of the information we learn is gathered from fi bers and threads,” says Skip Palenik, a Forensic Consultant, Senior Research Microscopist and President of Microtrace LLC. “Fiber evidence can be critical to investigations – it is not going too far to say that lives have been saved because of forensic fi ber examinations,” says Houck, Director of Forensic Science Initiative and Research Offi ce Manager for Forensic Research Business Development at the College of Business and Economic at West Virginia University,

“Fibers are shed by rope, carpets, blankets, upholstery, and many other items,” says You-Lo Hsieh, Professor of Fiber and Polymer Science at the University of California, Davis, who also advises student research in the university’s forensic science graduate program. Fiber evidence may be used to corroborate witness statements, establish someone’s presence at the scene of a crime, or provide investigative leads, says Bloch.

Palenik explains that forensic scientists rely on Edmond Locard’s Exchange Principle when looking at fi ber evidence. Simply put, the principle states that whenever two objects come into contact, there is always an exchange of material. That exchange of material can establish an association (or lack association) between two objects or persons, says Bloch.




Wellness FabricIn Europe, “wellness” has evolved into a real mega-trend. Over the years, the number of wellness hotels offering wellness treatments have increased. Restaurants put wellness dishes on their menu, claiming benefi cial effects for the diners’ personal well being. Furthermore, the number of food items and beverages bearing the term “wellness” in their names has become nearly countless. Hence, the creation of wellness textiles was only a matter of time.

Since 2003, the textile industry has created the technology to construct an entire wellness fabric by using a “wellness fi ber.” Five years ago, this fi ber was presented at the Heimtextil trade show in Frankfurt, Germany, for the fi rst time. SeaCell fi bers can be generated from Lyocell, a cellulosic man-made fi ber, by adding fi nely-ground seaweed, mainly from the family of brown, red, green and blue algae, into the spinning solution. This wellness fi ber tends to be unique in its well being effect. Extensive clinical testing at Jena University (Germany) proved that minerals from the seaweed are being constantly released in a humid atmospheres. So are carotenoides and amino acids, as well as vitamins E and C. Owing to this behavior in wet conditions, SeaCell is mainly used for terry towels, bath gowns, shirts and blouses, socks, and sleepwear.

However, the specifi c fi nish has not yet been perfected. Based on cyclodextrine technology, the auxiliary has to be applied via fi xation of an easy care resin, which unfortunately gives the textile a hand. Additionally, the tiny storage units of cyclodextrine have to be reloaded after they have delivered their contents to the skin. So if a consumer asks for a continuous dispersing of the anti-aging substance, he or she must reload the textile by adding a special compound (created by the supplier itself) to the fi nal rinsing bath in the washing machine.

Indian Silk industry hit by Chinese ‘quake.’Indian silk industry with an annual business of over Rs. 10,000 crore has been hit hard by the earthquake in the recent past in China, a major supplier of raw silk for the manufacturing units in the country.

The industry claimed that hundreds of units in Varanasi, Bengaluru, Madurai, Coimbatore and Bhagalpur have closed down as the raw material costs of silk have gone up by upto 40 per cent and over one lakh persons engaged in the sector have lost jobs after the earthquake in the Sichaun province of China. Sichuan is the primary supplier of raw silk yarn and dupion to Indian manufacturers of silk products. Majority of the mulberry gardens have been destroyed due to the quake, which has led to a sharp fall in production in India.

“The earthquake and subsequent fl oods in Sichuan has affected the import prices of raw material, which have gone up by about 30-40 per cent,” Indian Silk Export Promotion Council Chairman, T.V Maruthi said. Further, he said the industry has also been hit by increasing transportation costs due to hike in fuel prices apart from labour and other costs.

China’s Garment Export Growth slows downFrom January to May this year, China exported a total value of $66.16 billion of textiles and garments, upto 15.4% from the same period of last year, according to the Chinese Customs offi ce. Of the sum, about $26.07 billion was textile products, upto 26.3%, and $40.09 billion was garments and accessories, upto 9.3%. The textile exports of China regained its fast growth, while garment exports faced a much weaker demand abroad. Industry players said that the weak overseas consumer demand had affected the cotton sector in China. The country imported 240,200 tons of cotton this May, a decrease of 23,200 tons, or 8.81 from the previous months.

Anti-aging Properties answer a Mania for YouthVitamin E is the basis of an interesting wellness fi nish on textiles. Due to its ability to bind free radicals, vitamin E has anti-aging, moisturizing, and anti-oxidative abilities. Responding to the worldwide prevalent mania for youth, it could become the number one fi nish for all kinds of textiles and clothing: underwear and sleepwear, bed-linen and terry towels, blouses and stockings, sportwear and denim.


A new facility that consolidates Clariant’s leading application services

and expertise for customers in the carpet industry was formally inaugurated at Louvain-la-Neuve, south of Brussels in Belgium, on September 19, 2008.

The state-of-the-art Carpet Center underpins Clariant’s position as a supplier of the full range of dyes and chemicals for all aspects of carpet processing (from yarn spinning, dyeing and printing, to fi nishing and backing).

It brings the company’s colouration and fi nishing facilities and know-how under one roof, a feature that is attractive to customers because they can discuss the whole chain in carpet production at one place and with one company.

Facilities include an application laboratory, machinery for rotary and jet printing, steamers, a gum applicator, different types of exhaust dyeing machines, foam application, continuous dryer, quality and fastness testing equipment, and a customer showroom with more than 300

carpet samples illustrating different types and colouration effects.

Also at the new center, customers’ production processes can be imitated for trialing or problem solving. New products and developments can be demonstrated, and training is available. Masterbatches, also used in the carpet industry, is adjacent to the new center.

Recent innovative developments for the center have included bright highfast dyes for jet printing, and new C6 fl uorocarbon products with high dry soil-release are in advanced stages.

Ivan De Langhe, Head of the Clariant Global Carpet Center, says: “It is a great advantage for customers to have the different facilities and knowledge in one place. With the facilities we have, covering all applications in the industry, this new facility will be an attractive proposition for customers seeking one-stop solutions.”

Belgium was chosen for the location of the facility because of the country’s pre-eminence in the industry – it is world’s biggest carpet producer after the US.

New Clariant Global Carpet Center offers ‘Under-One-Roof’ facility for Customers

Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited

www.clariant.in

Printed and Published byPrabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) LimitedDesign by Point-n-PixelPrinted by Multiple Images

Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi

Editorial Co-ordinator: Sujata ParitiEditorial Board: Rajinikanth Prasad, Hitendra Parekh, Sunil Joshi, Sanjay Sathe and Sunil Kadam


New lightweight woven fabrics made from Australian Merino

fi bers were launched on September 25, 2008 for soft tailored suits and separates as well as smart casual apparel.

The MerinoCool fabrics, developed by Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), are less than 165gsm and respond naturally to environmental and body temperature changes.

This means they keep the wearer either warm or cool depending on the ambient temperature or wearing situation and are suitable for year-round wear.

AWI CEO Craig Welsh says: “Today’s consumers - particularly in the major markets of Europe, the US and Japan - want lightweight clothes. People want to feel comfortable, and in the contemporary built environment they don’t actually need clothes for protection or to keep warm.”

More than 15 global supply chain partners are involved in the MerinoCool project, which targets the smart casual market in Italy, France, Japan, Korea, India and China.

AUSTRALIA: Lightweight MerinoCool Fabrics Launched | Source: just-style.com

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Chronicle Oct08