CosmeticsPackaging...The global market This GlobalData report brings together multiple data sources to provide a comprehensive overview of the global cosmetics and toiletries industry

The millennial market is increasing theimportance of brand engagement

WINTER 2018

Cosmetics PackagingPackagingI N S I G H T

Materials • Regulation • Brand protection • Sustainability

The millennial market is increasing the

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From the editor

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 3

A s Christmas rolls ever closer, the cosmetics industry prepares for one of its highest growth periods

of the year. Looking good is big business and business continues to be good, with consumers willing to pay high amounts and make more effort to source the right cosmetics products than ever before, but this comes with the downside that there is no loyalty to anything less than excellence.

Any product caught overpromising and under-delivering will quickly be put on notice through social media and word of mouth, and without immediate improvements will be scrapped equally fast. This is a market that can give Kylie Jenner a $1-billion company valuation within three years, so the money is there for the right products and the right look.

So what is driving growth in 2019 in the cosmetics sector? There are a number of active key trends that have been spotted throughout the year:

The clean lifestyles trend has incorporated beauty foods or supplements that can be integrated into the diet to support beauty and grooming. This can be achieved by harnessing health food ingredients to develop naturally beneficial formulations. Single dose products that need to be refrigerated and have ‘use by’ dates can enhance efficacy perceptions.

Smart tools continue to dominate cosmetics packaging innovation, whether through using

VR technology to allow users to try on products prior to purchase or through partnerships with mobile apps to help improve the reach of products. Consumers can even use smart tools as diagnostic experts to help measure the exact make-up of their skin to assist with product choices, rather than relying on the previously used trial and error.

Inclusive positioning, such as the creation of gender-neutral products and advertising campaigns to engage the male demographic, has grown rapidly across the globe. This trend also seeks to create intergenerational and racially diverse marketing campaigns that communicate beauty as something that all consumers can possess.

Perhaps the most crucial to note is the move towards unique experiences, which provides flexible formulations that consumers can alter and reformulate depending on changes in their lifestyle. Companies have also been working to enhance product packaging and its ‘shareability’ – offering unique shapes, colours, and reflective and metallic materials that encourage sharing online and assist in improving product visibility.

However cosmetics companies choose to drive growth, listening to consumers remains the key to looking good and feeling great, ensuring they have the tools and functionality of product they need in order to intuitively use their products and unlock their best selves.

Visit www.pci-mag.com Visit www.pci-mag.com

In this issuePage 19: Taking stock of millennials, their purchasing habits in the beauty sector and effect on the industry.

Page 28: How businesses have been making use of online transparency to increase effi ciency, safety and trust in their brands.

Page 32: A look at the shift towards green consumerism and the potential benefi ts for businesses that embrace this trend.

Growth factors for the festive season

Cosmetics Packaging InsightWinter 2018

EDITORIAL

Editor Matthew RogersonChief sub-editor Thom AtkinsonSub-editors Nicholas Kenny, Julian TurnerSenior writer Greg NooneFeature writers Grace Allen, Tim GunnProduction manager Steve BuchananGroup art director Henrik WilliamsDesigner Martin Faulkner

COMMERCIAL

Client services executive Yasmina JacksonPublication manager Richard PollardSubscriptions marketing manager Mariella SalernoPublisher William Crocker

Cosmetics Packaging Insight is published by Compelo, a member of the Audit Bureau of Circulation.

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On the web...Keep up with the latest developments across the packaging industry by visitingwww.pci-mag.com

Matthew RogersonEditor

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Contents


6 The global market This GlobalData report brings

together multiple data sources to provide a comprehensive overview of the global cosmetics and toiletries industry. The report provides percentage share (in 2017) and growth analysis (during 2012–22) for various package materials, pack type, closure type, and primary outer types based on the volume sales (by pack units) of cosmetics and toiletries products.

9 Up close and personal The growing UK beauty and

personal-care market was worth more than £15 billion in 2017. To differentiate themselves in this glamorous and crowded sector, brands have to go beyond being aesthetically pleasing because consumers now expect the ‘whole package’. Emma-Jane Batey speaks to a range of beauty brands about how they are meeting market demands.

12 Ideas shaped in metal Pack-Man

13 A perfect fit Aarts Plastics

15 Drive innovationin the tube market

Viva Packaging

16 Tube takeover Tubes have proved to be effective,

and cost-effective, packaging components across the cosmetics and skincare industries for many years, and are increasingly being adopted by other markets. Cosmetics Packaging Insight selects a number of products featuring tubes as primary packaging components from GlobalData’s pack track database, and highlights the features that make these products innovative and improvements on what came before.

19 Marketing that meets millennial needs

Millennials make up almost a third of the world’s population, spending about $200 billion each year, so GlobalData Consumer conducted a special report on millennials and their purchasing habits in the beauty sector.

22 Legislative round-up From the EU Cosmetics Regulation

to halal certification and REACH, the 2018 Cosmetics Business Regulatory Summit covered a broad range of

key legislative topics for the beauty and personal-care industries. Julia Wray reports.

25 Small and sustainable Exhibitors at ADF & PCD New

York 2018 were split equally across packaging and dispensing. What they all had in common was providing solutions that offered sustainability, with a focus on challenger brands looking to disrupt the market.

28 Full transparency Neil Thompson explores how

businesses are discovering new opportunities to boost efficiency, safety and trust in their leading labels.

31 An exciting new way to promote fragrances

Sampling Innovations Europe 32 Rub of the green A shift towards ‘green’ consumerism

is evident, with 75% of consumers believing that living an ethical and sustainable lifestyle is important in creating a feeling of well-being, according to primary research by GlobalData. Ethical and sustainable packaging can now play an important role in achieving that lifestyle and peace of mind.

Millennials are more likely to trust social media in� uencers and bloggers than brand claims. Tubes are the new stars in cosmetics packaging.

In this issue...

1916Cover story

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Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com6

The intelligence > Market analysis

The globalmarket

This GlobalData report brings together multiple data sources to provide a comprehensive overview of the global cosmetics and toiletries industry. The report provides percentage share (in 2017) and growth analysis (for 2012–22) for various package materials, pack type, closure type, and primary outer types based on the volume sales (by pack units) of cosmetics and toiletries products.

T he global cosmetics and toiletries industry was valued at $412 billion in 2017, led by Asia-Pacific and

the Americas, which accounted for value shares of 37.6 and 32.4%, respectively. A falling global unemployment rate and the consequent rise in disposable income levels are major factors influencing consumer spending on personal care. The projected global economic improvements, led by strong growth in Asia’s developing economies, will drive growth in the cosmetics and toiletries industry. However, with consumers’ rising concerns about sustainability, and increasing pressure from

animal welfare organisations to ban animal testing of personal-care products, manufacturers face the challenges of seeking alternative testing methods and replacing conventional packaging materials with more sustainable ones.

The value share of skincare and oral hygiene is forecast to increase during 2012–22, while that of haircare and make-up is expected to remain constant. At regional levels, personal hygiene in Eastern Europe, feminine hygiene in Asia-Pacific, and haircare and personal hygiene in MEA, are projected to see strong growth in value shares during 2012–22.

High-potential countriesA total of 50 countries were analysed, based on a risk-reward analysis, to identify the top four countries by region. The risk-reward analysis is based on multiple metrics, including market size and growth assessment, economic development indicators, socio-demographic factors, governance indicators, and technological infrastructure.

The top ten high-potential countries – China, South Korea, Brazil, Canada, Colombia, the Netherlands, the UK, Russia, Poland and Saudi Arabia – accounted for a combined value share of

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40.9% in 2017. China is set to emerge as the fastest-growing market for cosmetics and toiletries (C&T) with a projected CAGR of 8% for 2017–22, while Russia was the largest market in Eastern Europe with a value share of 42.7% in 2017.

Competitive landscapeThe global C&T industry is highly fragmented, with the top four brands – Nivea, Dove, L’Oréal Paris and Colgate – accounting for a combined value share of 6.4% in 2017. The overall share of private label products in the global C&T industry increased from 3.2% in 2012 to 3.5% in 2017, with value sales reaching $14.42 billion in 2017. Improvements in the quality of private label cosmetics and toiletries products, coupled with changing consumer perceptions of private label, remain major driving factors of growth.

Distribution channelsHypermarkets and supermarkets were the leading distribution channel in the global C&T industry, with a value share of 34.5% in 2017 attributed to the availability of a wide range of personal and beauty care products under one roof. Hypermarkets and supermarkets were followed by health and beauty stores, which accounted for a value share of 16.5% in 2017. Among all the regions, Middle East and Africa registered the highest sales of C&T products through the hypermarkets and supermarkets channel, with a value share of 42.2%.

Packaging formatsFlexible packaging was the most commonly used package material in the global C&T industry, accounting for a 45.4% volume share in 2017, followed by rigid plastics with 38.7%. The use of rigid metal is expected to grow the fastest, at a CAGR of 4.0% during 2012–22, followed by flexible packaging at a CAGR of 3.8%.

Current scenarioIncreasing demand for high-performance cosmetics that not only nourish but also

address specific issues, such as hair fall/hair loss, dull skin or dark spots, has led to the emergence of personal-care products with active ingredients, vitamins and minerals. Distaste for artificial ingredients has also prompted the rising use of natural ingredients such as black and white charcoal, aloe vera, coconut water, rose, honey and lemon, as well as other plant and fruit-based extracts in C&T.

Functional claims such as ‘UV defence’, ‘anti-hairfall’ and ‘anti-ageing’ are being used to make cosmetics and toiletries appealing to consumers who seek quick and effective results. Producers are also capitalising on ‘free-from’ claims such as ‘cruelty-free’, ‘paraben-free’ and ‘no artificial colours’ to build an ethically and socially conscious brand image among consumers looking for personal-care products that share their ideals.

As consumers become more savvy and aware of the numerous complex ingredients used in C&T, they are increasingly reading product labels. As many as 42% pay high or very high attention to the ingredients used in the beauty or grooming products they buy. Therefore, it becomes important for brands to provide ingredient lists, as well as allergen information on labels for safe usage.

With busy consumer lifestyles, and rising out-of-home and on-the-go usage, convenient, effective, and single-use

pack formats have gained popularity in the personal-care industry.

C&T manufacturers are also focusing on innovations such as spray-on and roll-on applicators for effective coverage and application for maximum benefit.

Future outlookWith innovation being vital for success in the personal-care industry, brands are incorporating superfoods such as ‘probiotics’ (lactobacillus and bifidobacterium), ‘green tea’, ‘algae’,

‘moringa’ and ‘kale’, deemed to be naturally nourishing to skin and hair. Additionally, regional beauty regimen will drive the use of ingredients such as snail essence, yogurt, argan oil, jojoba oil, black pine and wild rose to gain clean label positioning.

The clean label trend will see continued interest in ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ tags. Functional claims such as ‘pollution protection’ and ‘sweat defence’ will increase, given consumers’ desire for efficient personal-care solutions. Ethical claims such as ‘sustainably sourced’ and ‘vegan’ will remain in vogue, as brands try to increase their appeal across a diverse user segment.

With growing desire for simple and clean labelling, the demand for products with clear on-pack communication will gain momentum. For instance, using simple language or recognisable ingredients along with scientific names (such as Vitamin E for Tocopherol), will not only increase product appeal but also build trust through transparency.

Manufacturers will continue to innovate with new formats, designs and value-added packaging features for C&T that enhance user experience. Additionally, consumers’ desire to reduce household wastage from packaging will spur manufacturers to focus on sustainable packaging, such as recycled materials and paperboard, as well as biodegradable plastics.

Global overviewThe improving global economy will spur consumer spending on C&T. The global C&T industry was valued at $412 billion in 2017, led by Asia-Pacific and the Americas, which accounted for value shares of 37.6% and 32.4%, respectively. An improving global economy, driven by strong economic growth in emerging markets, and the subsequent rise in disposable income levels, are the major growth drivers. Skincare was the largest sector with a value share of 28.2% in 2017, followed by haircare and make-up, which accounted for value shares of 16.9 and 11.5% respectively.

Growth driversThere are a number of factors influencing growth in this area:

■ High participation of women in the global labour force (49.5%) will

Pop-up retail is the new ‘buzz’ in brand engagement, as companies look to offer consumers the ‘bricks and mortar store’ shopping experience without the high cost of permanent retail spaces.




continue to support growth in the industry, as women become more appearance-conscious.

■ Rising consumer confidence across major global markets, coupled with the high-spending habits of millennials who enjoy spending on improving appearances, will drive sales for C&T.

■ Strong growth in the air travel industry, with international travel rising by 6.7% in 2016, and the subsequent rise in travel retail, remained a major driver for luxury brands such as L’Oréal and Estée Lauder.

Latest developmentsThe C&T industry is constantly adapting to changing circumstances:

■ An increasing number of companies in the C&T industry are hopping onto the ‘green’ bandwagon by packaging their products with recycled or recyclable materials. For instance, P&G developed a recyclable bottle for its Head and Shoulders line and Dior launched Hydra Life in lightweight glass packaging.

■ Rising consumer desire for a premium experience is driving manufacturers to use expensive and luxurious ingredients, such as gold (anti-ageing), caviar (antioxidants), and diamonds (micro abrasion) in their cosmetics products.

Future inhibitorsWith governments focusing on reducing the environmental impact of cosmetics, manufacturers might be required to alter their product formulations. For instance, the Swedish Government plans to introduce legislation to reduce the use of substances such as triclosan and triclocarban in cosmetics as they are harmful to the environment. As consumers seek more information about the products they use, companies must focus more on ingredient

traceability, which is challenging by virtue of the globalisation of supply chains.

Asia-Pacific focusAsia-Pacific is projected to record the fastest value growth during 2017–22. Asia-Pacific was the largest market in the global C&T industry, with a value share of 37.6% in 2017.

This was led by China, Japan and South Korea, which accounted for a combined regional value share of 77.8%. The Asia-Pacific market for C&T is forecast to record the fastest CAGR of 5.7% during 2017–22 and remain the largest market worldwide, with a 41.5% value share in 2022. Growth is primarily driven by the rapidly expanding aspirational middle class population who constantly look for better-quality products. Skincare was the largest sector with a value share of 43.1% in 2017.

In light of rising consumer distrust of chemical and synthetic ingredients, there has been a rise in C&T with clean label claims. For instance, L’Oréal India introduced its Garnier Ultra Blends range of haircare with ‘no paraben’ and ‘natural’ tags. ‘Pop-up’ retail is the new ‘buzz’ in brand engagement, as companies look to offer consumers the ‘bricks and mortar store’ shopping experience without the high cost of permanent retail spaces. For instance, Lancôme debuted its pop-up store – ‘Holiday Wonders’ – at Changi Airport in Singapore (open from 6 October 2017 to 10 November 2017).

The Americas The Americas emerged as the second-largest global market for cosmetics and toiletries, with a value share of 32.4% in 2017. The region was dominated by the US, with a value share of 52.6%, where increasing income levels is driving premiumisation in the market. On the other hand, the expanding middle-income population in developing

economies, including Brazil, Chile, Colombia and Mexico, will contribute to the growth of the C&T industry, which is projected to record a CAGR of 2.4% during 2017–22. Haircare was the largest sector, with a value share of 19.3% in 2017.

Manufacturers in the C&T industry are increasingly creating products that adapt to specific consumer lifestyles. For instance, Sweat Cosmetics and Tarte Cosmetics launched products with sweat and water-resistant formulations targeted at consumers with active lifestyles. Beauty companies such as The Body Shop and Lush Cosmetics, which claim to follow ethical business practices such as fair trade and cruelty-free testing, are expanding their footprint in Brazil, indicating growing consumer interest in sustainable and ethical products.

Western EuropeGrowing demand for premium products and rising image-consciousness among men are driving value sales in Western Europe, which was the third-largest market in the global C&T industry with a value share of 21.9% in 2017. Germany and the UK were the top two countries for C&T in the region, with a combined value share of 39% in 2017.

The region is forecast to record a modest CAGR of 1.9% in value terms during 2017–22. Improving eurozone economies and a projected rise in consumer confidence will play a significant role in revitalising demand for the industry. Skincare was the largest sector with a value share of 24.3% in 2017.

European consumers are highly conscious of the social and ecological impact of products they purchase. In response to this, companies such as Weleda and P&G launched products packaged with recycled materials.

With the male beauty segment growing at a rapid pace, an increasing number of companies are launching male-specific products. For instance, L’Oréal partnered with the celebrity David Beckham on a men’s grooming brand called House 99, which launched in the UK in February 2018.

An increasing number of companies in the cosmetics and toiletries industry are hopping onto the ‘green’ bandwagon by packaging their products with recycled or recyclable materials.


B eauty products across all price points are expected to be effective, but now consumers

demand that they are equally appealing and efficacious. People are savvy about what they put on their skin, with ingredients, packaging and the products themselves coming under increasing scrutiny – and rightly so. No brand deserves an easy ride, particularly when it comes to the highly competitive beauty sector.

The beauty of packagingTake Japanese skincare company Yu-Be: its reputation as an ‘only available in Japan’ brand has been a valuable element in its packaging and growing popularity globally. For many years, the company’s famous multipurpose, vitamin-enriched skin cream was a special gift purchased by travellers visiting Japan; so when a Japanese-US businessman decided to import it, he had the determination to ensure that the brand remained exclusive, keeping its iconic status alive.

Yu-Be sales and marketing director Matthew Graham says, “Yu-Be celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2017, and our famous Yu-Be Moisturizing Skin Cream is one of Japan’s longest and bestselling skin products. In order to convey a sense of Japanese history

and product quality, we have been careful to balance a very clean, vintage-apothecary type of look while keeping certain Japanese elements, like the Japanese language symbols in the logo, as well as using the original Yu-Be orange colour that can be seen throughout the product line.”

Graham then discusses how the surge in popularity for Asian beauty products has bolstered Yu-Be’s success. “The recent interest in Korean products, as well as the ongoing interest in other Asian beauty products, especially for skin and hair, gives us a great opportunity to educate shoppers about our long history in Japan, and our high-quality and effective products.

“We will continue to develop new, quality skincare

Up close andpersonalThe growing UK beauty and personal-care market was worth more than £15 billion in 2017. To differentiate themselves in this glamorous and crowded sector, brands have to go beyond being aesthetically pleasing because consumers now expect the ‘whole package’. Emma-Jane Batey speaks to a range of beauty brands about how they are meeting market demands.

Insight > Materials


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Insight > Materials


products in Japan and bring them to market as we always have. In January 2018, we launched the Yu-Be Advanced Formula Pure Hydration Cream, which is made without any camphor extract or paraben preservatives. The packaging will be very similar to the original; however, we will be using green for the colour scheme instead of the original orange, so customers can distinguish the two different creams from each other.”

Another pioneering skincare brand, Alpha-H, uses its packaging to represent the ‘simplicity, understated elegance and sustainability’ of the product within. It provides professional

products to beauty salons and skin clinics, and also has a retail offering; the company’s range includes supersized and deluxe minis.

“We need to ensure that our packaging protects our powerful active ingredients, such as glycolic acid, while also securing the potency of our most delicate ingredients, including vitamins, antioxidants, and flower and fruit acids,” explains Tom Ogden, European business manager at Alpha-H. “Our ethlylene vinyl alcohol (EVOH) tubes are also UV-coated, providing excellent barrier protection to oxygen and humidity to preserve the active ingredients inside. Our EVOH tubes and high-density polyethylene bottles are recyclable.”

The new Alpha-H Liquid Gold Firming Eye Cream is a great example of ‘responsible, functional luxury’, with its unique and precise application through a cool-touch metallic applicator. Ogden notes that “sustainability and packaging are major areas in the beauty sector that are undergoing change. People are

supporting green and Earth-friendly brands, and products that have a minimal impact on the environment. Brands are, therefore, becoming more socially responsible with their formulations, manufacturing and packaging. Our packaging is clean, minimal and functional, and we are always looking for ways to reduce our footprint on planet Earth, without being overpackaged or overhyped.”

Affordable luxuryThe demand for feel-good products in the beauty sector is high across all price points, with the expectation that efficacy comes as standard. For leading UK-based colour-cosmetics manufacturer Pascalle Cosmetics, its ability to develop and manufacture a wide range of contract-fill and private-label cosmetics puts it at the apex of quality and affordability.

“We pride ourselves on having 30 years’ plus experience in cosmetic design and manufacturing. We work with international retailers and independent brands, offering full project management to design, develop and create cosmetics ranges that are manufactured here at our factory in Stoke on Trent,” states Emma Dodd, business development manager. “Pascalle also owns six cosmetics brands that are available to purchase globally, including our entry price point Miss Beauty London collection to our mid and premium ranges MeMeMe and Kubiss,” she adds.Beauty Pie ensures that its packaging is as environmentally friendly as possible.

Alpha-H’s packaging emphasises the elegance of its products and protects premium ingredients.

Yu-Be’s packaging pays homage to its Japanese roots and its exclusivity in the country.


Insight > Materials


The MeMeMe brand offers high-end premium formulations that create ‘gorgeous and distinctive cosmetics at an affordable price’. Dodd continues, “Our passion at MeMeMe lies within creating gorgeous, feminine and spirited cosmetics for our customers. We are a celebration of individualism, believing that the best in beauty and design should be affordable, and adored in every girl’s handbag. Mixing the themes of mythology, romance and the bohemian spirit, MeMeMe is a brand that prides itself on the quality of its formulations and unique approach.”

Packaging plays an important role in establishing its identity. “MeMeMe features black and cream-themed high-end componentry, and the MeMeMe signature pattern and cherub feature heavily on the packaging as well. Many items in the range are presented in cardboard packaging to create a unique look and feel,” affirms Dodd. She then concentrates on trends and how the beauty brand is meeting them, saying, “We are seeing trends across cardboard palettes, and are developing contour and highlight palettes in card palettes that feature spot UV to respond to the trend, which complements our existing card lipstick case, eye palettes and blush boxes.”

Beauty revolutionThere is one fresh beauty brand that is breaking the mould: Beauty Pie was founded by well-known business pioneer Marcia Kilgore – who is deemed as “beauty royalty” by the Guardian’s Sali Hughes – and is rapidly gaining evangelical fans due to its innovative buyers’ club. The premise is clear, says a Beauty Pie spokesperson who adds, “At Beauty Pie, our mission is to bring our members the world’s best beauty products at a totally transparent factory cost. No mumbo-jumbo. No middlemen. No mark-ups.”

That complete transparency is clearly represented on Beauty Pie’s website: a £20 lipstick costs just £2.24 to members, with £1.61 of that accounting for the product and packaging. Its dynamic black and white packaging retains the distinctive look that makes luxury beauty

brands so appealing, while making the company luxurious and affordable.

“We’re a team of beauty product obsessives who have worked in the beauty industry for aeons. We’re working to make our packaging as ecologically conscious as possible. Too much cosmetic packaging ends up in a landfill, and the more complex the componentry, the less easily it can be broken down for recycling. We don’t use over-the-top fancy caps, metal cladding or rigid

plastic jars, and we’ve chosen plant-based inks and recyclable board for our cartons,” explains the spokesperson.

Innovations in beauty packaging show that it pays to think outside the box. Consumers are increasingly demanding that what they put on their face is kind to the world around them; from the ingredients used to how packaging tells the brand’s story, skincare and beauty products must go way beyond just being effective.

Hygiene on the goKruidvat Solait Facial Treatment Serum delivers moisturisation and cooling for sun-parched skin. The cardboard box contains seven 2ml glass ampoules of serum, giving a premium feel to this private-label brand. The convenient minis can be used at any time for instant relief.

Little Dome Hollywood Star toothpaste comes in a rigid plastic ball with pump dispenser. It is visually striking compared with the usual tubes, there is no screw cap to lose, and the pump ensures it is mess-free and dispenses the correct amount.

Schick Hydro silk refill razor blades are offered in a multipack unit with a hook for hanging in the bathroom. Rather than a rigid plastic compartment box, the perforated container means individual blades can be torn off for use on the go, and the heat-sealed, flexible-film cover protects the razors’ moisturising strips.

Waterless Gillette Venus is a premium disposable razor sold in single packs. There is a lubricating soft gel built into the squeezy bottle handle, which is dispensed onto the skin from a sponge pad. The small, handy pack is made of firm plastic casing with a board backing card for total visibility.

The new cream from Pacific Shaving is unusual as it comes in a resealable, flexible pouch. Each pouch holds 40 water-soluble mini pods, more typically used in laundry detergents, to control dosing, save the mess of foams and oils, and to allow small amounts to be carried around with no canister or bottle needed.

Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask to Clear Pores is an example of creative primary and secondary packaging working together. The outer packaging is a cardboard box with an image of the standard tube at the front and cut-out holes at the back. Inside, there is a blister pack of four tear-off pods, each with 5ml of the face mask, which protrude out of the holes. Showing off the pods adds intrigue for the shopper, and the blister pack, with its sealed tear-off plastic film, keeps the product fresh.

Inclusive beautySleek Lifeproof Foundation is packaged in a standard plastic squeezy tube with a twist-off lid at the base. Its design is simple and the product is visible through the transparent section. The neutral black, white and grey colours of the tube remove any suggestion of gender. This marries with the brand’s campaign against gender bias – offering the same product to all people and not labelling it as ‘for men’ or using pink tones for women.

Making the current trend of facial tissue masks applicable to men has been achieved subtly, highlighting the use of soothing botanicals for shaven skin, and M Skin Care’s Men’s Facial Sheet Mask for post-shave cooling does just that. The pastel blue hue with stark typography doesn’t appear to be aggressively ‘for men’ but is delicate and calming to match the product.

Preserve Triple Razors are reusable handles with two blade cartridges in a carry case. The key aspect being that the razor handle itself is rigid plastic from recycled yogurt pots, while the PET, rigid display clam case is made from 100% post-consumer waste. The paper information leaflet encourages recycling and is printed with soy inks. It is branded for men and women, which is rare in this sector, and is BPA-free and not tested on animals.

Jecca Correct and Conceal Palette is unisex and comes in an elegant, neutral design. The pack is intended for use by transgender individuals but uses sleek, simple colours and designs in its packaging to help it appeal to any person wanting to wear concealer as part of their daily make-up routine or to cover blemishes.


Company insight


P ack-Man, founded in 2014, specialises in custom metal packaging production, and its work is defined by its precision. To maintain its production standards and

ensure quick turnaround, product design, processing and finishing are done entirely in-house. The company’s agile supply chain allows it to complete limited to large volume orders and it is a certified, preferred supplier to major brands in the luxury cosmetics industry.

One step forward In 2017, Pack-Man integrated the revolutionary TK520 aluminium treatment method into its manufacturing process. This gives its products a premium finish, superior tensile strength and an infinite array of colour options. TK520 aluminium is sturdier and more lustrous than untreated aluminium, and is also 100% recyclable.

In 2019, the company will be launching its inventive ‘Skincare’ range of packaging.

Create clean Pack-Man opened its green factory in September 2018 to meet increased demand and to fully integrate anodizing and plastic

injection into its manufacturing processes. Pack-Man’s eco-friendly operations are certified compliant with applicable environmental standards and legislation, generating zero waste water and particle emissions. By 2020, its operations will be powered partly by solar energy and alternative energy sources.

Further informationPack-Manwww.pack-man.fr

Ideas shaped in metalSpecialising in custom metal packaging production, with a focus on the luxury cosmetics industry, Pack-Man is taking steps to ensure its operations are as eco-friendly as possible.

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The TK520 treatment method produces sturdier and more lustrous aluminium that is also 100% recyclable.

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Company insight


A arts Plastics has been creating items for the high-end cosmetic space for decades. The success of the company lies in its vast

experience in product and mould development, its attention to upcoming trends in the market and, of course, some of the finest assembly and finishing techniques in the business. These factors, combined with high-volume robotic production, makes Aarts Plastics a perfect fit for many cosmetic brands.

Aarts offers the luxury cosmetic market a small standard range, but the company’s secret weapon is its custom development division, which caters to numerous fragrance and cosmetic companies all over Europe. From perfume caps to powder compacts, and outstanding design to the selection of the highest-grade materials, Aarts makes sure that the development of new packaging concepts runs smoothly and efficiently.

For most pieces, the process the company uses to convert an idea into a physical reality is the hallmark of its renown. Starting with an engagement with the client to define exact parameters for the project, a brief is developed that will lead to the actual design phase. Once a 3D model has been generated and approved, a

prototype item can produced along with a pilot mould (for injection projects) if requested, ensuring a limited run can be set to test production prior to full release. After the

testing phase has been concluded, the full mould can be developed, and depending on the project requirements, can be completed as a single cavity, multicavity or multicavity stack mould.

Some of the more popular decoration options the company offers include metallisation, lacquering and, of course, industry standard hot-stamping and screen-printing.

From 2019, the company will invest in a high-speed digital printing unit. This single-pass full- colour printing unit can be used for flat and domed

surfaces like caps and compacts. With regard to technical expertise and design capabilities, Aarts is a name that is swiftly becoming inextricable from luxury cosmetic and fragrance packaging.

Further informationAarts Plasticswww.aartsplastics.nl/uk

A perfect fitAarts Plastics produces packaging and its components for the high-end cosmetics industry.

• Triple AAA • Production partner for bespoke cosmetic packaging • Smart production solutions • Most advanced moulding techniques • High volume robotic production

Aarts Plastics BV – Vijzelweg 8 · 5145NK Waalwijk The Netherlands •www.aartsplastics.nl · [email protected] • phone +31 416 332959

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Aarts works in the high end.

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Viva Packaging.indd 1 07/12/2018 09:57

Company insight


V iva Packaging manufactures injection-moulded squeezable tubes with in-mould labels. Its

main markets are the ones for personal-care products, haircare and skincare, but other markets, such as food or industrial products like car finishing products, are also showing keen interest.

Global brands are looking for synergies, and having three global production locations is a key benefit for Viva and its customers. Global brands can produce uniform products across different locations, close to their markets. With production facilities in Asia, North America and Europe, Viva can provide consistent packaging products across different territories.

Viva helps brands differentiate themselves through their tubes. Competition is tough and brands are looking for better-quality graphics, better shelf impact and to be at the forefront of innovation. Viva’s R&D department is working hard to develop future solutions that brands will need, such as dual chamber tubes, tubes made from recycled material and special applicator tubes. This is what Viva stands for: driving the innovation in the tube market at the speed of light. Its strong family ownership structure, with very short decision-making processes, is the key to its ability to grow quickly.

Brands and portfolio Viva supplies to brands like John Frieda, REN Skincare, Clearasil and L’Oréal – as well as to strong, creative and green brands like Pacifica and Desert Essence, which have found the perfect fit with Viva’s impacting graphics through a very sustainable tube packaging (which requires up to 35% less energy to produce and is 100% recyclable, with closed loop initiatives initiated with retail).

As customers embrace Viva’s IML tubes, they discover the advantages of the more rigid and high-end feel of PP IML tubes. These tubes bounce back to their original shape rather than wrinkling or deforming, giving them a higher perceived value, and the packaging looks untouched during the tubes’ entire life cycle.

IMLs are printed on a flat surface, enabling Viva to print almost any type of graphic – flexo, offset, silk screen, cold foil and many more – on its state-of-the-art printing press. This hybrid printing press combines these options and achieves the most striking graphics on the in-mould label. Viva goes even further, ensuring the tube is resistant and graphics appear new during the tube’s entire

life cycle. When elaborate graphics are printed onto an IML, it is important to protect the artwork, as the tube is going to be filled and then passed through a distribution process, and may even end up in a purse or handbag.

Environmentally friendly tubes for the circular economyTraditionally, tubes are manufactured with the sleeve and shoulder produced separately and then welded together, and the cap is usually sourced externally.

Using Viva’s IML technology, the sleeve, shoulder and decoration are created in one manufacturing step – by injection-moulding with IML – and Viva manufactures all components in-house. Every component is moulded,

printed and assembled in the same plant, and Viva controls the supply chain of the caps, which has a big impact on its throughput times.

Life-cycle analysis (LCA) of Viva’s tubes – taking resin sourcing into account along with the amount of energy spent to produce a tube, all the way through to the finished tube – shows that the Viva injection-moulded tube with in-mould label saves, on average, up to 35% of the energy used in production compared to any competing technology. Retailers are asking suppliers what they can contribute in terms of sustainability and Viva can help them with its 100% recyclable PP IML tubes.

The tube is made from one single resin – Polypropylene No. 5 – which means at the end of its life cycle it can be recycled without having to separate tube and cap. A traditional tube is made from different materials. The cap, tube and shoulder are made from different resins, with the label made from yet another material, and it is often nearly impossible to separate these components from the tube for recycling.

Viva uses a high degree of post-consumer recycled (PCR) material for the tube sleeve, and up to 100% for the caps used on its tubes. The disadvantages of PCR material – discoloration, only being available in darker colours – are neutralised by the use of IML labels covering the entire tube body with decoration.

Drive innovation in the tube marketSynergy and in-house production are watchwords in almost every industry, but Viva Packaging believes it has mastered the way it implements both into its production process.

Viva’s PP IML tubes return to their original shape rather than wrinkling or deforming, resulting in a higher perceived value.

Further informationViva Packaging www.viva-healthcare.com [email protected]

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TubetakeoverTubes have proved to be effective, and cost-effective, packaging components across the cosmetics and skincare industries for many years, and are increasingly being adopted by other markets. Cosmetics Packaging Insight selects a number of products featuring tubes as primary packaging components from GlobalData’s pack track database, and highlights the features that make these products innovative and improvements on what came before.

U biquitous and more than fit for purpose, tubes have long been a mainstay in the cosmetics

and skincare markets, but their rise to innovation superstars has been a more recent trend. The following products have been chosen from GlobalData’s pack track database as being a major improvement and innovation, and having a tube as a primary packaging component. All of these products have been launched over the past six months.

Etude Corporation: four-tipped, pen-style applicatorSouth Korea’s Etude Corporation has launched its brow marker tint with a four-tipped, pen-style applicator. The company claims that its smudge-proof formula will last for two to three days.

Packaging construction consists of a matt-printed cartonboard carton with straight tuck ends; inside is an injection-moulded brown plastics, pen-style rigid tube with silver-coloured and printed decoration.

The key innovation in this product is the four-pronged applicator for eyebrow tint colour. A multi-tip marker-type applicator helps to give a natural, hair-like look very quickly; however, it is difficult to draw very fine lines. The pen-type pack is easy to hold and use, and can be carried discreetly in a handbag for use on the go. The integral applicator enhances the

Insight > Materials


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Insight > Materials


pack’s suitability for on-the-go touch-ups since no additional tools are required. The pack requires no priming for use, though it may be necessary to shake the pen to aid colour flow into the applicator tip.

Bliss: Fab Girl SixpackBliss has launched a major tube innovation into the skincare market with its Fab Girl Sixpack, core-forming gel, which it claims has a “powerful blend of six core-stimulating ingredients” that “helps visibly tone, tighten and firm” the abdominal area.

The gel is housed in an injection-moulded white plastics airless pump dispenser tube with three-colour printed decoration around the body. The product also contains a bi-injection moulded plastics closure with spring-activated pump dispensing mechanism and an injection-moulded clear plastics friction-fit over-cap with moulded node to close off the dispensing aperture.

Other interesting applications of closures with integral massage devices include Voltaren pain-relief gel (laminate tube with push-pull type closure); Nivea firming shower gel (HDPE bottle with massage head that has adjustable firmness); and a H20 Plus Aquafirm skin-firming gel (PP bottle with roller-type massager).

In this product, the main feature is the airless tube with integral massage head incorporated into the pump dispenser actuator. The pump closure does not require priming for use (twisting open, for example) and the pack is ready to use as soon as the over-cap has been removed: just invert the pack and press the massage head firmly on to the abdominal area to dispense a blob of gel. This format allows quick, simple, one-handed dispensing while the massage head means that gel can be applied cleanly without using fingers. The gel dispenses repeatedly while the massage continues to work. This format could have application in the wider personal-care market or the household-care sector – for cleaning products or stain removers, for example.

Everpro: Beauty Gray AwayEverpro in the US has developed Beauty Gray Away, a temporary hair-colour stick

for touching up grey roots at the hairline and on eyebrows. It claims that the “self-adjusting colour technology blends to match any hair colour” and that the product is free from peroxide, parabens, ammonia, harsh chemicals and permanent dyes. The product comes in an injection-moulded black plastics rigid tube with a crayon-type colour stick at one end, covered by an injection-moulded black plastics snap-on cap. Although Tru Tone in India has previously sold a solid stick touch-up colour, this is the first stick-type product with an integral blending sponge on the market.

The actual size of the stick is illustrated on one side of the outer pack so that consumers are not deceived by the larger carton. This brand’s range also includes Root Touch-up Magnetic Powder in a handy compact-style pack with pull-out sponge applicator. One end of the pack features coloured powder, compressed into a solid stick format that can be applied directly to the hair roots, while the other end has a small sponge applicator to blend the colour for a more natural look. The dual-ended stick format means that there is no need for the consumer’s hands to come into direct contact with the colour, making usage quick, clean and easy. The format is ideal for use on the go or when travelling and the stick can be carried easily in a handbag, pocket or make-up bag.

Yes To: Superblueberries sleeping maskAnother US innovation, this time from Yes To, which has launched a skincare and beauty range this year, all of which have been considerable improvements in the sector. The latest is its Yes To Superblueberries sleeping mask with Greek yogurt and probiotics. The product is packed in a plastics laminate tube with straight-end seal and an injection-moulded white plastics push-pull type closure with purple-coloured soft brush applicator.

The use of a tube with brush-on application for a sleeping mask is unusual for the category. The brush-on application extends portability of the product so it can be easily used on the go or out of the home. As the cap is unscrewed, it pulls up the base of the brush and unlocks the tube ready for use. The consumer needs to

squeeze the tube to start product flow into the brush. Replacing the screw cap will automatically return the base of the brush to its original position and stop the flow. The automatically activated pull-push applicator eliminates direct hand contact with the product, resulting in a quick, clean and hygienic usage experience.

The pack is inverted for presentation and storage, and stands on its cap. Gravity means that the product naturally falls towards the closure ready for dispensing. The tube is quite tall and slender, so it fits comfortably in the hand for easy application. The flexible tube format means that once the cap has been opened, it is easy to squeeze out the mask on to the brush and skin.

Hard Candy: Sheer Envy primer stickIn make-up, Hard Candy has created its Sheer Envy primer stick, which it says prepares the skin for “flawless make-up application” and to have a cooling effect.

Primer stick is an injection-moulded opaque rigid white plastics tube with twist-up dispensing actuator; it is divided in half, so the top part forms a friction-fit lid, and the bottom part has a twist-up dispensing mechanism (rotating the lower part pushes the inner product barrel upwards) and direct-printed decoration over the tube (graduated pearlised blue to white and back to blue) with the product name at the front printed with metallised effect.

A portable twist-up tube format for make-up primer is a new and exciting development, and what generates the major improvement rating for the innovation factor. An easy to hold, stick-type pack format makes the product instantly ready to use and easy to apply directly to the face. This convenient-for-applying format is perfect for on-the-go use and would be easy to carry, for example, in a handbag. The applicator stick means that product contact with fingers is minimised, which reduces the risk of potential mess.

Tonymoly: Painting Therapy PackSouth Korea’s Tonymoly has brought fresh innovation to the facial-care market with the Painting Therapy Pack, a black-clay face mask with bamboo charcoal that

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Insight > Materials


helps to extract impurities and break down dead skin cells – it’s recommended for helping to control sebum and oil.

Packed in a printed opaque PP laminate flexible tube with straight-end seal and injection-moulded head, there is a comprehensive range of masks with various colours and formulas/functions in the same packaging type, but with different colour codes. They can be “blended depending on the skin condition”.

The pack design introduces the element of fun and encourages consumers to experiment, similar to a painter mixing their colour palette. Blending different varieties changes the colour of the product. The following suggestions are listed on the manufacturer’s website: black and pink become grey (for easily irritated, oily skin), yellow and pink become orange (for easily irritated dry skin), white and yellow become lemon (for dull, dry skin), and yellow and blue become green (for

extremely dry skin in need of maximum hydration). The colour of the cap and top of the tube matches the colour of the product, and is different for every variety.

PÜR: JoystickPÜR has developed the innovative Joystick, an “all-in-one” deep-pore cleansing stick said to have an exfoliator and toner that “foams on contact to instantly draw out dirt, oil and impurities with charcoal and Moroccan lava clay”.

The major improvement is the use of a twist-up tube for extended portability. The format offers increased consumer convenience for applying the product compared with flexible tubes or pouches. Slender stick-type pack format is easy to hold for use and has good portability for taking on the go or travelling. Product contact with fingers is minimised, improving the hygiene aspect of application and reducing potential mess.

Dove: DermaSpaUnilever is one of the world’s leading brand companies, and Dove is one of its pillar brands. It’s launched DermaSpa, a gift set that contains body lotion in an oval PE flexible tube with straight-end seal and an injection-moulded, pearlised dark-blue head, along with hand cream, also in an oval PE flexible tube with straight-end seal and injection-moulded, pearlised dark-blue head.

The two tubes have rather different surface feels, with that of the hand cream having a softer touch, while the body lotion is rather matt and feels slightly rough.

Avon: Anew Reversalist Infinite Effects Night Treatment CreamAnother major cosmetics player using tubes to enhance its packaging is Avon, which has released the Anew Reversalist Infinite Effects Night Treatment Cream. This two-phase, anti-wrinkle night cream comes in an injection-moulded black PP rigid tube with metallic-red printed decoration to the body and a spring-loaded pump dispensing closure to either end.

In consumer trials, Avon incorporated Cambridge Design Partnership’s ‘dialog’ smart-technology miniature sensors into packs to confirm whether consumers actually followed instructions to rotate the usage of the two products. Pack contains sufficient product for at least eight weeks’ usage, based on using two to three pumps per night.

The stand-out innovation in this product is the double-ended pump claimed to deliver “the world’s first rotational anti-wrinkle night cream”. The two-part product is intended to be used in weekly rotation, with phase one used for one week, then phase two for a week, then back to phase one and so on. The double-ended tube makes it easy to see which product one should be using, unlike side-by-side presentations or separate packs where one could easily forget which stage of the treatment is in use. The consumer just has to remember to flip the pack over at the start of each week. The two-in-one format is handy for home storage and convenient for taking on the go.

PÜR’s easy-to-use Joystick exfoliator and toner.

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millennialMarketing that meets

Millennials make up almost a third of the world’s population, spending about $200 billion each year, so GlobalData Consumer conducted a special report on millennials and their purchasing habits in the beauty sector.

I n 2018, GlobalData Consumer interviewed over 50,000 consumers from over 51 countries

and compiled the following report based on the responses it received, with a particular focus on millennials.

Why millennials?According to the latest figures, there are over 2.5 billion millennials, which is almost 33% of the entire global population. By comparison, the grey

market (seniors), which has long been such a source of wealth for consumer goods, is only 17%.

Millennials spend about $200 billion annually and there are estimates that they might be worth up to $10 trillion worldwide. In more developed regions, they might only account for 13% of the market, but in less developed ones they are responsible for the spending of 87% of all purchases.

As a key part of leading economies, millennials represent a varied and enormous potential; 27% of the US market, 25% of the UK, 33% of Brazil, 37% of South Africa, 35% of India, 29% of China, 26% of South Korea and 24% of Australia.

Defining characteristicsAccording to the GlobalData Consumer report, millennials are digital natives, experience-driven and individualistic. The report uncovered the following figures:

■ 64% find being active on social media important (50,000 surveyed)

■ 87% find their looks or appearance in general to be important

■ 60% prefer to be unique and stand out from the crowd

■ 59% find trying new experiences most exciting compared with trying new products.

After compiling and reviewing this informtation, GlobalData has identified four key innovation opportunities to target millennials:

■ community influence ■ healthy lifestyles ■ make it smart ■ male beauty.

Community influenceConsumers are influenced by, and value the opinions of, the online community. 63% of millennial consumers agree they are morelikely to trust bloggers or user reviews over brand claims.

needs


Special report > Millennial packaging

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Online trends and social media are influencing offline innovation. Consumers are often or always influenced by the following when purchasing beauty or grooming products, according to the report:

■ Millennials: 39% social media, 36% video blogs/demonstrations.

■ Average: 27% social media, 25% video blogs/demonstrations.

When asked if they were interested in beauty or grooming products that follow trends shown on social media, 39% of millennials were interested but not actively buying products, while 31% were interested and actively buying such products.

Informed, educated and engaged millennials are also driving crowdsourced beauty innovations. 67% of millennial consumers find the concept of products that they had helped create appealing.

Healthy lifestylesHealthy lifestyles are infiltrating beauty innovation. 89% of millennials consider eating healthily important in creating well-being or wellness and 34% claim to exercise several times per week.

The majority of millennials prefer to emphasise their natural beauty than to mask their flaws. 56% find the concept

of beauty products that help achieve a natural appearance appealing.

Make it smart69% of millennial consumers are interested in smartphone-connected electronic tools and devices in beauty or grooming markets.

Male beautyIndividualistic millennials are driving the growing male beauty industry. Many millennial men are willing to

increase the number of products they use in beauty or grooming routines to improve their appearance:

■ 59% North America ■ 31% Europe ■ 45% Latin America ■ 41% Middle East and Africa ■ 46% Asia-Pacific.

Males are not immune to image consciousness, which is driving innovation in unprecedented ways. 72% believe their looks are important or very important to them, while 44% agree that social media has made them more self-conscious of their appearance.

Where next for millennials?Combining customisation and emerging 3D technologies for production in the home is the next major innovation. Similarly, gender identification will become less prominent, driving the development of genderless beauty products.

At the same time, the retail environment will be heightened with interactive experiences and services designed to increase engagement as part of an ‘experience economy’.

63% of millennial consumers agree they are more likely to trust bloggers or user reviews over brand claims.

Consumers are influenced by, and value the opinions of, the online community. 63% of millennial consumers agree they are more likely to trust blogger or user reviews over brand claims.




Innovation implications: key products influencing the sector

Blogger affiliationCarli Bybel X BH Cosmetics

n 5.2 million YouTube followers, 4.4 million Instagram followers n An ongoing collaboration, BH cosmetics has joined forces with US beauty vlogger and make-up artist, Carli Bybel, to create a second eyeshadow palette

n Designed to allow users to put her beauty tips and tricks into practice

n Capitalises on the blogger’s YouTube following and trust credentials

Partnering with social media influencersThe Estee Edit

n Targets millennials through its ‘camera-ready’ instant benefit solutions

n Focuses on consumer individuality with the #beautyattitudes campaign

n Uses Kendall Jenner as brand ambassador to promote products

Kylie Cosmetics n The success of the initial ‘lip kit’ product led to the development of an entire Kylie Jenner cosmetics range

n Capitalises on the social media star’s online influence

Using online platforms to co-create with consumersJust Herbs Skin Tint

n India’s first crowd-sourced beauty product n A tinted moisturiser developed in collaboration with the brand’s online community

n Just Herbs users in a members-only Facebook community were asked their ingredient, texture, packaging and aroma preferences

Make-up that stays put and protects from the elements Arrow Revive Cooling Cheek Tint

n Breathable, oil-free gel formula n Provides a natural flush of colour, built to survive a workout

Shiseido Sports BB Cream n Specifically targets active consumers n Uses ‘WetForce technology’ to protect from the sun and water

Make-up to enhance natural beautyMilk Make-up Lip and Cheek Tint

n Quick, multiuse lip and cheek tint n No mirror needed, no brushes needed and easily blended with fingertips

n “People are more health-conscious these days, and those decisions show up in your skin,” says Diana Ruth, co-founder

Skincare meets make-upGlossier Haloscope

n Dew effect highlighter n Dual-delivery formula that focuses on nourishing the skin and creating a glowing effect

n Infused with crystal for highlight, with solid oil core of vitamin-rich moisturisers for hydration

Technology to optimise beauty/skincareHiMirror Plus

n Identifies skin issues and creates personalised solutions, tips, and regimes to address them.

n Assesses skin clarity, texture, firmness, brightness, and overall healthiness

Kérastase Hair Coach n Provides information on hair quality and brushing patterns n Accompanying app provides information around external factors such as humidity

Transforming make-up applicationColor Me Automatic Foundation Applicator

n Uses sonic pulse technology to mimic the tapping technique of professional make-up artists

n Eight hour coverage, ‘superior’ to results of conventional brushes or hands

Increasingly sophisticated male beauty itemsYes To Natural Man Charcoal Mask

n Formulated with charcoal and witch hazel n Prevents ingrown hairs and razor burn

Sulwhasoo Inner Charging Serum n A water-gel-textured serum formulated with traditional Korean herbs

n Enhances the natural regeneration of men’s skin. n Cares for wrinkles and dullness

Unisex beautyMAC Brant Brothers Collection

n Range in collaboration with Peter and Harry Brant, New York socialites

n Second unisex make-up collaboration by the brothers with MAC

n Using make-up to change traditional standards of masculinity and femininity

Source: GlobalData

Millennials are estimated to spend $200 billion annually and to be worth up to $10 trillion worldwide, making them a key part of any leading economy.


Insight > Regulation


Legislativeround-up

From the EU Cosmetics Regulation to halal certification and REACH, the 2018 Cosmetics Business Regulatory Summit covered a broad range of key legislative topics for the beauty and personal-care industries. Julia Wray reports.

T he fifth edition of the Cosmetics Business Regulatory Summit took place on 8–9 October 2018

at Meliá Barcelona Sky. What follows is a synopsis of the in-depth presentations delivered during the event.

Europe updatesThe successes and limitations of the EU Cosmetics Regulation five years on was a key theme at 2018’s summit.

Sandra Ferretti, chief compliance officer at Obelis Group, opened proceedings with a look at 1223/2009/EC. Its implementation on 11 July 2013 brought

clearer requirements, clarified the responsibilities of manufacturers, importers and the responsible person (RP), centralised notification, and provided greater harmonisation.

The regulation is ‘a work in progress subject to modifications’ and there have been 30 amendments in the past five years. The most recent surrounded the maximum concentration use of UV filter MBBT (nano) under Annex VI; peanut oil and hydrolysed wheat proteins under Annex III; and the banning of ZnO colourant in applications that could lead to exposure to the end user via inhalation.

Ray Boughton, toxicology director at Delphic HSE and the second speaker on day one, focused on safety assessment of cosmetic products. His presentation zeroed in on the margin of safety (MOS) under the EU Cosmetics Regulation, which is calculated by dividing the hazard posed by the substance (based on historical test data and called the ‘no observed adverse effect level’ – NOAEL) by exposure (the systemic exposure dose – SED).

If the value is greater than 100, the substance is generally considered safe. But this is deceptively simple, he warned, noting, “Just having a number is of no use

The successes and limitations of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, �ve years after its implementation, was a key theme at 2018’s summit.

CPI003_106_Regulation.indd 22 06/12/2018 11:33



at all if you don’t understand the science behind it.”

Speaking on day two, Alan Ritchie, associate of REACH and product stewardship at WPS, hypothesised the impact of the 2020 poison centres regulation deadline (EU 2017/542) on the cosmetics industry.

The regulation intends to harmonise requirements across the EU and will be applicable to mixtures classed as hazardous.

The notification timetable is 1 January 2020 for importers and downstream users placing mixtures on the market for consumers; 1 January 2021 for mixtures for professional use; and 1 January 2024 for mixtures for industrial use.

The final presentation on day two discussed the RP role and was delivered by Richard Bartlett, manager for Europe at Delphic HSE. The RP is a legal or natural person (within the EU) able to demonstrate compliance with the obligations set out in Article 4 of the Cosmetics Regulation.

RP responsibilities include pre-market obligations (which includes the all-important product information file, or PIF and the cosmetic product safety report, CPSR), post-market obligations and ongoing due diligence.

A likely future hurdle will be Brexit, Bartlett told attendees. The EU and UK are working towards a transition period until the end of December 2020, during which the UK would be considered an EU member state.

Post-transition, UK-based persons will no longer be considered acceptable as an RP for cosmetics on the EU market, or for holding PIFs for cosmetics on the EU market. A worst-case, no-deal scenario, however, would bring this date hurtling forward from December 2020 to 29 March 2019.

Compliance tipsKen Bubeck, CEO of Sponsor Ithos Global, provided a number of top tips for information management of compliance chain, including:

■ make use of metrics and dashboard ■ use tools that ensure accurate

measurements and efficiency ■ plan the product introductory process

■ align the supply chain to your own internal processes.

All about halalThe Indonesian market boasts the largest Muslim population in the world at 227 million. DKSH’s senior director of regulatory affairs, Robert Koller, educated attendees about Indonesia’s soon-to-be implemented halal regulation.

Indonesia’s Law 33/2014 (when it comes into force in 2019) will see mandatory labelling and certification of cosmetics sold in Indonesia as halal. The law will demand clarity regarding raw materials used, equipment and processing, and the formulation of the final product.

The authorisation body will be the Halal Product Assurance Agency (BPJPH), Koller told attendees, while verification will be carried out by the Halal Inspection Institution (LPH). Products from overseas with foreign halal regulations might be acknowledged in Indonesia, subject to cooperation between the involved governments.

Following Koller and also discussing halal was Salma Chaudhry, founder of beauty brand Halalcosco. She explained that her company’s founding principles were halal, safety, quality and the avoidance of najis and mutanajis – Arabic terms meaning ‘unclean’ and something ‘that started off as clean but has been cross contaminated’, respectively.

“When you’re choosing a [certification] body, a big tip is to look at the country to which you are hoping to export and its specifications” as to which certifying bodies it recognises, she said.

Regions of interestThe 2019 Cosmetics Business Regulatory Summit offered in-depth looks at several markets and their entry protocols. Representing CASIC – the Council of the Latin American Cosmetic, Personal Care and Home Care Industries – Paola Becvar, global regulatory affairs manager of Edgewell Personal Care, talked about the 106-million-population Andean community.

Established in 1999 and currently made up of Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru, the common cosmetic regulation for the Andean region is Decision 516, which is currently in the process of amendment,

with updates expected to come into force in November 2019.

While there are multiple changes, some of the key ones to expect include the scrapping of the deeply unpopular Certificate of Free Sale; new and separate labelling regulations (previously under Decision 516); and a new process to include importers of the same product (from different companies) under one notification.

Ulli Haslacher, CEO of Pour Moi (the first climate-centric skincare brand), mapped the US regulatory landscape for delegates. She flagged the US Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA) – to prevent deceiving packaging – as a vital piece of new legislation, as well as FDA’s Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program and several California-specific laws, including the California Safe Cosmetics Act and Proposition 65. The competing proposed Feinstein-Collins Bill and Hatch Bill were referenced, both of which suggest mandatory reporting, registration of facilities and ingredient review by FDA.

A major move in recent months was Hawaii’s first-of-its-kind banning of sunscreens linked to the death of coral reefs in July 2018, and Haslacher opined that Florida could be next, based on local sales of ‘reef-safe’ sun care.

Dr C Omprakash of Vyomus Consulting followed Haslacher. He discussed reducing red tape in the $8.5-billion Indian market. In India, cosmetics are regulated under the Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945, with the Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 covering misbranded cosmetics and spurious cosmetics. The Drugs and Cosmetics Rules 1945, meanwhile, covers import and registration, manufacture, labelling and packaging, GMP, permitted colours and standards for cosmetics. Market entry to India can be via three potential routes: the India License can be held by a “non-distributor authorised agent”, your own business, or an importer/distributor.

Thwart social media fakersOver 2.5% of all estimated world trade is made up of fake goods and Emma Monks, head of trust and safety at Crisp Thinking, told delegates that the boom in social media-led shopping has created a “perfect storm” for counterfeiting.




Monks provided ten social media signs that digital teams can look for to spot a counterfeiter, which are:1. links to unofficial sites or profiles

in Instagram comments2. follow me’ requests in comments (could

be counterfeiters)3. unverified accounts4. whatsApp contact details in comments5. customer ‘callouts’ exposing

fake accounts6. comments disabled (to prevent

customer callouts)7. adverse reactions to products reported

on social8. review sites with suspiciously

poor reviews9. offers that are too good to be true10. someone hashtagging

multiple brands.

Testing in the modern worldOne snarl of red tape for the European cosmetics industry is the need to comply with the cosmetics animal testing and marketing bans (under 1223/2009/EC) while also meeting the terms of REACH, the EU regulation that requires any company wanting to market a particular chemical substance to register said chemical.

Dr Julia Baines, science policy adviser for PETA, explained that in 2014 the ECHA and the European Commission (EC) delivered a joint statement saying that cosmetic ingredients may still require animal tests for the purposes of REACH.

It read: “Registrants of substances that are exclusively used for cosmetics may not perform animal testing to meet the information requirements of REACH human health end points, with the exception of tests that are done to assess the risk to workers exposed to the substance.

“Registrants of substances that are used for a number of purposes and not solely in cosmetics are permitted to perform animal testing as a last resort for all human health end points.”

Dr Baines noted, “We have a problem as an NGO with this particular statement – we don’t believe that this interpretation is legally robust.”

One legal issue raised by PETA is that the Cosmetics Regulation isn’t a human health regulation (like REACH), but a marketing one.

Moreover, Dr Baines said the joint statement also violates REACH, because REACH cannot be used to circumvent the requirements of the Cosmetics Regulation.

Following this, scientificallyadvanced in-vitro methods were covered by Dr Carol Treasure, CEO and founder of XCellR8. The company offers in-vitro tests that provide an upgraded alternative to animal tests, and are also entirely animal product-free.

For example, there are fully approved in-vitro tests for three of the key events in

the skin sensitisation pathway: direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA) for contact; KeratinoSens to measure the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines; and human cell line activation test (h-CLAT) for dendritic cell activation and maturation.

While DPRA uses no animal-derived components, KeratinoSens and h-CLAT do, so over the past few years XCellR8 has replaced foetal bovine serum (FBS) and porcine culture reagents with human-based or synthetic alternatives.

Trend-led claimsNamrata Nayyar-Kamdar, CEO of Shalohm and founder of new teen skincare brand Plenaire, discussed Gen Z consumers: a lucrative group with total teen spend in the US reaching $208 billion in 2014.

Gen Zers, she said, are hyperaware of the change they can influence and embrace inclusive, less gender-binary approaches to beauty. But equally, they lack patience and demand instant fulfilment. Crucially, Gen Zers don’t trust advertisers and, as such, Nayyar-Kamdar added, “we cannot hide behind ‘puffery’ about ingredients”.

She also noted that “the internet is listening and watching”, drawing attention to Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop being forced to pay $150,000 in civil damages after an ob-gyn on social media disputed claims that the company’s jade eggs could balance hormones, regulate the menstrual cycle, prevent uterine prolapse and increase bladder control.

There has been a recent vogue for out-of-this-world products. Playing on this, Raphael Sauerwein of KTN Dr. Neuberger demystified claims compliance via a hypothetical unicorn moisturising face cream.

Theoretically, he said, he could include the text “with real unicorn tears”, as claims acceptability is based on the “perception of the average end user”. That said, he jokingly told attendees that if he wanted to ensure compliance, he might choose to put: “The unicorn is believed to possess magical attributes, but nobody has ever seen one.”

He also looked into GDPR, recommending that companies wishing to process data should follow the principle of data minimisation and only ask for data that is really necessary.

Finally, for influencer marketing, Sauerwein said “ad” or “sponsored” should be superimposed onto photos or videos, while a clean metadata hashtag must be used in the national language – for example, #ad (UK), #werbung (German), and so on – and at the beginning of the content, rather than intentionally hidden.

A long-standing but always relevant trend is for natural and organic beauty, and Carmen Esteban Sanchidrián, technical regulatory consultant for STANPA, reviewed the objectives of ISO’s standard for natural and organic cosmetics.

Unlike standards and certifications from private organisations, ISO 16128 is a “tool to measure natural and organic content”. It doesn’t tell manufacturers what they can and can’t use, nor does it set a threshold limit for a product to be natural or not. Moreover, it isn’t designed for communication purposes.

Esteban said ISO 16128 – which is divided into two parts, Part 1 for ingredients and Part 2 for finished products – aims to promote transparency, encourage innovation and provide wide recognition at an international level.

When you’re choosing a [certification] body, a big tip is to look at the country to which you are hoping to export and its specifications as to which certifying bodies it recognises. – Salma Chaudhry, Halalcosco


Smalland

sustainableExhibitors at ADF & PCD New York 2018 were split equally across packaging and dispensing. What they all had in common was providing solutions that offered sustainability, with a focus on challenger brands looking to disrupt the market.

I ndie and global brand representatives attended ADF & PCD New York 2018 at the Altman

Building & Metropolitan Pavilion in Manhattan, 5–6 September, just a couple of days after Labour Day. ADF & PCD New York is billed as North and South America’s only dedicated event for the aerosol, dispensing, perfume and cosmetic packaging and design community.

Show management put an emphasis on indies this year, with a number of specially designed programmes showcasing the increasing demand for more sophisticated and innovative packaging, and the need to compete with the larger brands. Organisers also strived to create an upbeat

environment complete with piped-in music and an indie designer fashion show with models who paraded through the exhibit areas on day one.

Alli McEntyre-Gaharan, event director of the ADF & PCD Portfolio, said that the show was a huge success, with the aerosol and packaging portions equally divided among this year’s 130 exhibitors. In 2019, however, the show will move to a later date, 17–18 September, and plans are to take over the second floor of the Altman Building in order to expand the aerosol and dispensing elements of the show.

With content in mind, ADF & PCD New York also ran a very popular two-day educational seminar programme.

Sustainability was the major focus for 2018, with sessions packed with visitors eager to learn more about this overriding topic of interest.

On the show floorA walk around the PCD section of the show floor revealed lots of first-time New York packaging exhibitors, with representatives from Asia, Croatia, France and Italy, and with many companies selling direct to the US. A number of suppliers were positioning themselves as disruptors in dispensing and decorative solutions, and there was also talk of tariffs in the air.

The MiniMist system from Alternative Packaging Solutions drew interest for

Events > ADF & PCD New York 2018


CPI003_103_Events_ADF PCD.indd 25 06/12/2018 11:25



what the company calls “a new dispensing system to disrupt the aerosol industry”. Robert Tate, chief operating officer, explained how it uses a very fine spring rather than a traditional dispensing system, so “you get pure product, nothing else”. You just press down for four to five seconds, he said, and spray in any orientation.

Tate also said that MiniMist produces a continuous spray without any chemical propellants, adding, “Its innovative construction remains cost-competitive with a significantly lower carbon footprint than aerosols”. Tate explained that MiniMist’s spray characteristics and customisable design allow for almost any packaging shape and material to suit different brands and product categories.

While custom designs were certainly available at the show, there was an emphasis on stock packaging.

ABA Packaging showcased a complete line of simple-shaped, stock-line glass bottles, which included roll-ons and treatment bottles. Liana Marchese, account executive at ABA Packaging, displayed five new lines of high-end fragrance glass available in low quantities – particularly noteworthy for indie brands – in sizes ranging 50–100ml and available in six to eight weeks. An assortment of suitable pumps and various decorative options were also available.

At New High Glass, Alonso Herrera spoke of how the company was moving towards “a lot more green choices” such as using recyclable materials including PE green and plastic from sugarcane. Herrera said Europe is far ahead of the US in this way, “but they also have superior recycling capabilities and facilities”. New High offers jars made of 60–90% recycled glass, which in some cases have a green tint. A number of attractive glass bottles featured wooden cap combos.

Hangzhou XINLI Plastic & Hardware, which specialises in perfume packaging, offered a selection of bottles, caps and deco for fragrance, plastic, glass, metal and wood.

Plastics plusMade in the US and low MOQs were special points of interest at Colt’s Plastics, where Mark Egan, vice-president of global

sales and marketing, said that caps, jars and more can be decorated and delivered in six to eight weeks.

With talk of potential tariffs on goods from China, Egan said they had seen increased interest from brands looking for US-based manufacturers. Located in Dayville, Connecticut, the supplier offers elegant deco finishing with no tooling investment. Low MOQs stand at 1,000 pieces and turnaround is six to eight weeks. Egan says specialties include 3ml-16oz heavy-wall PETG recyclable jars and urea-based biodegradable caps.

Bridging a variety of materials from glass to plastics, RS Group, represented by Benevolent Beauty’s Maggie Wedemeyer – a seasoned beauty professional who does private label packaging projects for brands including Anthropologie – said, “Trump’s new tariffs – adding a nickel to a dime per piece for export tax – is not going to affect purchases.” She added, “You can economically source glass, caps, tubes, pumps – all with low MOQs.”

The ten-year-old company offered stock packaging “in different shapes than we’ve seen before”, said Wedemeyer. They also have the ability to do custom in 3–14 months. A pretty stock cream jar was available in 15, 30, 50 and 100g sizes, and a serum and oil-dropper bottle in

glass is a new design, available in 10, 15, 30 and 60ml.

APR Packaging highlighted a patented concealed nozzle for airless bottles. The locking feature makes it especially convenient for on-the-go use. Available for bottles in 15, 30 and 50ml, it includes a locking feature: just turn and click, and the actuator pops out to prevent leakage and spillage. Multiple colours and decorative options are available.

Launched in 1991, Taiwan’s Ever Rich Fountain featured plastic-injection airless bottles in PP, PET and double-wall, as well as cream jars. A new offering was a two-component bi-injection cream jar; droppers and pumps are also available. Decorative options include ink printing, hot stamping, spray coating, water transfer and digital printing. Double Wall Airless bottles are available in 15, 30 and 50ml; the outer bottle is SAN, the inner is PP. Large and mini sizes are also available.

Stražaplastika DD is a plastic tube manufacturer from Croatia. The 60-year old company offers two complete lines and produces more than 25 million tubes a year. It offers tubes, caps and deco, including silkscreen and hot stamp.

Printing and decorating Sun Chemical highlighted its expertise in metal decorating, which can be done on

The winners of the 2018 ADF & PCD New York Innovation Awards, voted for by an independent jury.




any material. The company showed screen inks that can be used on metal, glass and plastic. The supplier also offers brand protection features integrated into the inks. Textured and screen effects are also available.

Val Laquage is a French company specialising in decorating on glass bottles, with techniques including screen printing, hot stamping and automatic coating. The group, comprised of three companies, provides a full range of decoration – coating, silk-screening, hot stamping and pad printing – on glass products for markets including cosmetics, perfumery, pharmacy and spirits. All companies take an eco-responsible approach, and 100% of their products are made in France. The supplier exhibited bottles for luxury brands including Creed and Miu Miu.

Iggesund was offering a new metal substrate for use on digital press printing, which laminates metal film to Invercote, calling it MetalPrint. Metalprint Digital was developed in close cooperation with HP Indigo. Invercote Metalprint Digital is adopted to be run without a priming step in the HP Indigo one shot mode on 10,000 and 12,000 machines. The first grade to be produced is 300gsm (13.6pt) Invercote G + METPET, which is the standard product; it will be available from May 2019.

Digital direct-to-shape decoration for mass production was a highlight at Velox, which offers end-to-end, high-quality printing for long and short runs of cylindrical containers such as plastic and aluminium tubes, aerosol cans, laminated tubes and more.

According to Velox, this solution is the first “to expand digital processes beyond short runs to offer a compelling replacement for mass-production analogue decoration”. By enabling decoration at full production speed, along with “a dramatic value leap in the form of unique printing features, highly flexible decoration capabilities, and mass production economics”, Velox says it “opens a new world of operational and marketing opportunities for converters and brand-owners”. The supplier’s proprietary DTS inkjet technology is based on uniquely formulated inks and dedicated deposition architecture, and “introduces an entirely new approach to digital printing

that is poised to disrupt the packaging decoration market”.

Turnkey developmentFull-service packaging options were a popular topic at ADF & PCD, as elsewhere. At Essentia Beauty, Cinzia Bessi, sales and marketing director, displayed some of the projects they had recently completed. The turnkey services company works for private label brands in categories including make-up, fragrance and accessories. The Italian supplier just opened an office in Shanghai. Offers include digitally connected packaging, eco-friendly packaging, packaging concepts and ready-to-go formulas. One cute product is a magnetic lipstick package with a removable mirror that clips on.

A New Heat & Dose System was available at Klocke, a contract packager specialising in unit dose packages. The system, powered by Exothermix, is available in sachet and blister formats, and can also be sold at retail. The consumer can safely heat products prior to application, so it is ideal for products ranging from skincare and haircare to face masks.

At Quadpack Group, wood made a strong statement as a sustainable material option for cosmetics, skincare and fragrance packaging.

Christin Cupo, client account manager at Quadpack, said, “Wood is a trendy material that is on an upswing, especially for indies looking for sustainability and an immediate ‘green’ message.” Quadpack Group’s Technotraf Wood Packaging

factory near Barcelona in Spain specialises in the renewable resource, and plants six trees for every one taken down. Quadpack is now partnering with East Hill Industries as a distributor. In the first part of 2019, East Hill is due inventory for a variety of full packs from Quadpack.

One beautiful wood product at Quadpack combined sophistication and environmentally friendly material in a compact crafted from wood sourced from sustainable forests certified by the PEFC. The wooden compact is hewn from maple wood for an exceptionally smooth finish.

At ADF & PCD, Corpack highlighted its sustainable rubber and cork blend called Sughera, which, according to managing director Jean Paul Corbeil, can be substituted for plastic components.

With a natural look and feel, Sughera is described as “a revolutionary material consisting of a synthetic rubber-blend mixed with ground pieces of natural cork. For the first time, a micro-agglomerated natural cork is injection-moulded and formed without using glue”.

Aside from its special composition, connecting nature with technology, the distinctive features of Sughera are good resistance to various elements and versatility in application. This new material (70% cork, 30% rubber blend) uses less petroleum-based materials while giving the component a natural look and feel. Components can be made in a variety of colours. The material has now been introduced in a wide range of cosmetic packaging.

An aerosol promoting Pixar Animation Studios, one of the innovations on show at this year’s ADF event.


Full transparencyConsumer engagement through apps and social media has become a primary tool for cosmetic brands to spread their message; however, it also gives customers more power to research the history and provenance of their purchases. Neil Thompson explores how businesses are discovering new opportunities to boost efficiency, safety and trust in their leading labels.

A ccording to the 2017 Edelman Trust Barometer study, only about half of the general

population trusts business, government, media and non-governmental organisations to do the right thing. The poll reported that belief in business fell to 52%, and CEO credibility also dropped globally. Transparency has, therefore, become a major issue for the world’s leading retailers and suppliers, which understand that with today’s shrinking planet, credibility is increasingly a business’s most important currency in an online, linked-up world.

“As consumers, we want guarantees for the products we buy, whether it’s food,

beverages, beauty or hygiene,” noted Ignacio Gavilan, director of environmental sustainability at the CGF, in a blog post. “We are increasingly calling for transparency and effective responses in the event of any health-related problems, environmental negative impacts or labour issues. It’s vital that businesses establish efficient frameworks for transparency, traceability and information flow for management of their supply chain networks.”

Yet, public concerns about a product’s

ingredients, effect on the environment and – more recently – the behaviour of companies involved in a good’s production further down the supply chain, have given rise to the ‘conscious consumer’ of the information age. Meanwhile, as corporations increasingly track vast amounts of data – which they are doing for brand protection, supply chain enhancement or to establish provenance – transparency is becoming a normality across large parts of the global economy.

In a recent post on Sustainable Brands’ website, Kelly Semrau,

senior vice-president of global corporate affairs,

communication and

sustainability at SC

Johnson, said, “In short, no one knows

Insight > Brand protection


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who to trust. For a business, this translates to mums and dads not knowing what brands they can trust to bring into their home. That’s why, at SC Johnson, we believe we must be transparent about our ingredients, our environmental initiatives and our supply chain. Transparency is a critical way for us to earn trust.

“We strongly believe it’s the right thing to do, and we hope other companies share this core belief.”

Changing timesCompanies are embracing transparency through self-defence, in order to protect themselves from unknown liabilities that might emerge in the future and cast the practices of the recent past in a bad light. In the UK, scandals involving creative corporate tax payments, zero-hour contracts and the misuse of consumers’ personal data have dominated headlines.

Meanwhile, memories of leading clothing brands being repeatedly caught using dubious sweatshops, or retailers’ food products becoming contaminated with horse meat, have made public attitudes towards overseas supply chains considerably less trusting. Talk of cheap goods has been replaced by fears of fraud and malpractice.

However, consumers are no longer passive recipients of goods, who unquestioningly get what they need once a week from the local shop around the corner. Businesses are now changing their practices because their relationship with customers is evolving in response, thanks to the rising power of shoppers to conduct their own online research into a product’s reputation, impact or safety.

This shift in power is driving positive change, with many businesses now disclosing standardised, comparable results and using new technologies such as blockchain to support their progress in bringing transparency to their extended supply chain. This also has the benefit of securing them against fraud or

counterfeit goods, including the crime networks that operate beneath the radar. Unfortunately, consumer engagement in brand honesty is often very different to corporate transparency initiatives that are meant to reassure them.

“Consumers have low trust in companies – along with other institutions,” stated Sarah Holloway, UK strategy director at marketing consultancy Futerra, for a Consumer Goods Forum. “But they are looking for reasons to build that trust.

“They often have low knowledge of supply chains, and high expectations of our ability to see and influence where products come from and how they’re made. They want simple, clear answers to the issues that concern them – which are not always the same issues that interest companies – and they want that information to be available on the product in their hand.”

Where next?When it comes to issues such as labour rights, sustainability or public health, governments and other actors increasingly expect corporations of all sizes to ensure full transparency throughout their supply chains, especially for suppliers and the sourcing of commodities associated with

crime, corruption and violence. This is even the case when the companies involved are in a different industry to their end users, and the goods produced are seen as necessary and wholesome.

Expectations are also rising because the same technological changes that are altering relations between consumers and businesses are shaking things up between businesses and their supplier. Transparency in various industries is being transformed by the impact of rapid developments: from satellite imagery used by companies and investors to track the provenance of rare woods, and manage forest-related sustainability initiatives; to artificial intelligence (AI) that is already helping to integrate the virtual and physical worlds in so-called ‘cyberphysical’ systems; and big data – the misuse of which led to Facebook carelessly supplying information to private companies like Cambridge Analytica, fuelling huge political scandals. Businesses that don’t change to reflect these developments inevitably get penalised for it.

Working together and tackling wasted opportunitiesWhile transparency remains high on the agenda, activists and insiders are increasingly arguing that more collective action between stakeholders is a better way forward than confrontation.

“Emerging technologies like blockchain have the potential to bring greater trust and transparency to business transactions and operations,

Consumers have low trust in companies – along with other institutions. – Sarah Holloway, Futerra

Spotting trends and customer insightsAmazon’s Carletta Ooton, vice-president for health and safety, sustainability, security and compliance, recently spoke about transparency in retail for the Consumer Goods Forum’s GFSI.

“Because customers have an existing relationship with our brands, they feel at ease contacting us. Amazon uses customer reviews as a valuable source of feedback. Customers love to share their honest thoughts and opinions in product reviews. This makes them a rich and abundant source of insights. Reviews are very useful to customers looking to make a buying decision. But they’re also invaluable to us for making informed business decisions.”

For Ooton, understanding customers is the key to acting quickly and preventing further problems. The company uses technology to check information from various sources to help investigations and identify potential product issues.

“We don’t just have to rely on customers calling a service number, or returning the item to the store in person. We may be able to uncover a potential problem long before it is discovered in another channel,” she stated, also alluding to how this maintains safety standards and best practices. According to Ooton, progress will come with thinking hard about technology and data.

Source: GFSI




helping to root out suppliers with poor sustainability credentials,” explained Gavilan. “As blockchain works through a distributed ledger system, where all activity is visible to every stakeholder, there is an opportunity for products to be tracked throughout the supply chain.”

Since multiple entities, including businesses, governments and civil society organisations, all have an interest in the sustainability and ethicality of the commodities they consume, buy or sell, it makes sense that representatives from each sector are brought together via the joined-up mechanisms provided by new technologies like AI or blockchain. This collaboration will help to make supply chains more transparent and secure, rather than wastefully duplicating each other’s efforts out of mistrust.

However, industry forums also stress that companies need to find ways to collaborate with rivals when it comes to precompetitive areas throughout the supply chain, using data that is currently wasted.

The internet, IT and software are used daily to give businesses insight into their supply chains, but few think of combining their actions with their competition.

“Poor data handling, packaging waste and outmoded technologies can lead to spiralling costs and inefficiencies that span entire supply chains,” expressed Ruediger Hagedorn, the CGF’s end-to-end value chain director. “Ultimately, this impacts not just business performance, but also consumer trust.” Meanwhile, supply chains built for shipping bulk – often at predictable intervals with the lowest back-end cost – are increasingly unfit for purpose in a world where customers are willing to pay more for ethical goods, and that demand companies actively root out suppliers with poor environmental or human rights credentials.

With big data and AI causing a retail revolution by creating demand-led supply networks, bulk buying is also less efficient than targeted orders to suppliers. Moreover, such indiscriminate methods make it easier for goods of dubious provenance, or ones produced cheaply through unethical labour practices, to slip unnoticed into mass orders that effectively make it impossible to know where an individual material, part or finished product comes from.

As technology renders old forms of organisation or business practices obsolete, transparency no longer has to be a company’s enemy. Instead, it can be a way of building better connections, improving sales, minimising costs, and guarding against the kind of liabilities that can ruin an excellent brand reputation.

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Poor data handling, packaging waste and outmoded technologies can lead to spiralling costs and inefficiencies. – Ruediger Hagedorn, CGF


Company insight


W ith over 30 years of experience, Sampling Innovations Europe supplies promotional samples, gift packs and single-dose retail

products specifically targeted to the fragrance and beauty industry. Its wide range of solutions include sachets, vials, miniatures, make-up and fragrance labels, and most recently launched the Self Sampling system for promoting fragrance in-store or at events. With a team of experts in packaging, marketing and logistics, SIE offers a complete full service from the design and production stages, through to the promotion and distribution of high-quality sampling formats.

The automated and Wi-Fi-connected Self Sampling system dispenses a single hygienic fragrance sample upon request, providing an easy and intuitive method of trying any new fragrance in the often complicated and crowded environment of a fine-fragrance hall. Each resealable sample dispensed allows consumers to smell the fragrance and to try it on the skin if they wish. Once resealed, the sample can be saved for a later trial or to share with influential friends and family. The high-quality print and fragrance ensures a positive first and lasting impression of brand and product.

Environmentally and economically astuteThis versatile technology is highly economical, requiring a minimal amount of perfume oil – only 1kg for up to 200,000 samples. Each machine is preloaded with a reel of 500–1,000 samples, so can be left to run throughout the day, reducing the need for expensive product testers. By giving consumers a physical sample, it helps to reduce the heady mixture of fragrances in the atmosphere of perfumeries or travel retail stores. The samples are recyclable and can be used several times. Thanks to its small size, the machine can be easily integrated into existing store furniture or custom designed to fit part of a wider brand experience. Self Sampling is guaranteed to increase brand awareness, impact and sales, while also helping improve the retail environment.

Fully connected technology Considerable investment in the design of the Self Sampling machines means that they are fully automated and can now be accessed remotely by the store or brand via their built in Wi-Fi and easy-to-use app. The LCD touchscreen will support videos, photos and gifs that can be changed in an instant via the app. The upper half of the screen can be

used to view campaign videos or images, while the bottom half of the screen is reserved for the ‘call to action’ touchscreen button to release a sample.

The Wi-Fi connection allows real-time communication with the brand, informing the number and time of samples taken from each device. This valuable consumption data and live feedback enables brands to review impact and improve conversion rates. It will also alert store staff when the machine needs to be refilled, and can be programmed to request data from consumers before a sample is dispensed, aiding database creation.

The app enables reports to be generated, outlining campaign performance by store, region, date, time and product. Using the app, brands can remotely change the imagery on any Self Sampling machine to enhance the consumer experience and highlight targeted price promotions or offers.

The option to print text or QR codes on the back of samples means brands can direct consumers online to make purchases, discover more, enter competitions and capture data. Self Sampling offers potential consumers a positive, non-invasive and memorable way to discover fragrances. This highly creative and interactive experience will guarantee brands high awareness and consumer engagement when launching new fragrances in-store.

An exciting new way to promote fragrancesSampling Innovations Europe introduces the fully autonomous Self Sampling system, which offers customers a new, non-intrusive way to discover new fragrances, while at the same time providing valuable information for brands.

The Self Sampling system dispenses a single hygienic fragrance sample upon request, providing an easy and intuitive method of trying new fragrances.

Further informationSampling Innovations Europehttp://sampling-innovations.com

CPI003_Sampling Innovations Europe.indd 31 06/12/2018 11:55

Insight > Sustainability


Rub ofthe green

A shift towards ‘green’ consumerism is evident, with 75% of consumers believing that living an ethical and sustainable lifestyle is important in creating a feeling of well-being, according to primary research by GlobalData. How can ethical and sustainable packaging play an important role in achieving that lifestyle and peace of mind?

M ainstream media is driving consumer change. Blue Planet II has drawn attention to the

issue of marine litter, leading to a focus on wet wipes, disposable cups, single-use plastics, chemicals and microbeads in plastics that is driving real, sweeping change, resulting in efforts to reduce and replace those objects with environmentally friendlier alternatives.

Sustainability communicates quality credentials: 32% of consumers interpret high quality in personal-care products to mean ‘environmentally friendly/sustainable’, and 21% feel the same in luxury packaging.

GlobalData has identified three key opportunities to target the ‘green’ consumer:

1. Beyond plastic2. Reduced packaging3. Reusable beauty.

Beyond plasticA plastic tax would bring about significant consumer change; 79% responded that they would buy fewer products less often or stop altogether, compared with the 21% who said their shopping behaviour would be unaffected.

Some of the companies using this in their packaging include Tata Harper in the US, which uses glass for the majority of its packaging, with only a very minimal amount of plastic included. Virginia Stone, also in the US, uses a container for its eye cream that is formed of sand, stone, hemp and water, and is 100% recyclable and reusable.

Reduced packagingBrands can prevent waste, starting with the new product development process. A total of 72% of consumers find reducing unnecessary packaging important in environmentally friendly packaging, while 25% of consumers would buy more unpackaged products or buy them more often in the future.

Lush Cosmetics is pioneering the zero packaging movement with its naked packaging of Slap Sticks – a solid foundation stick packaged in a peelable wax handle, and sold in reusable and recycled cardboard boxes to keep them fresh.

Ethique in New Zealand distributes solid, biodegradable ‘beauty bars’. The bars are claimed to last longer than liquid-filled bottled products, and are derived from natural sources, and packaged in 100% biodegradable wrappers or compostable, plastic-free boxes.

Reusable beautyInvesting in packaging that tackles throwaway culture, consumers were asked how important is it that environmentally friendly packaging is refillable and reusable?

A total of 69% considered the issue to be “extremely important”, 23% answered “neutral” and only 8% considered the issue “not important”.

Here are three examples of refillable make-up that can coincide with luxury:

■ Kjaer Weis, US, uses an intelligent refill system. Its packaging designs feature metal that can be used again, and its refill cartons can be recycled.

■ L’Occitane has launched Eco Recharge soap and shower gel refills that are economical and environmentally friendly, using less material and energy to produce than the ‘original’ pack.

■ Lancome has enclosed its refill within a glass jar, while the weight has been reduced by 39%.

Seed Phytonutrients’ body cleanser comes in a 100% recyclable moulded pulpboard outer shell.

CPI003_107_Sustainability.indd 32 06/12/2018 11:35



One core belief among consumers is that brands should facilitate easy recycling. A persistent frustration with packaging, voiced by customers, is that the recycling or waste management stream is very hard to understand. What they want to know is that if they put something that is labelled ‘recyclable’ into their recycling stream at home, it will be correctly designated, streamed and actually recycled. 75% of consumers believe it is important that environmentally friendly packaging is recyclable.

A great example of this comes from Burt’s Bees, which runs a free mailing system with TerraCycle, enabling consumers to recycle any and all of Burt’s Bees’ packaging nationwide. Another TerraCycle partner is Garnier, which worked with it to create a free recycling programme for all beauty packaging.

As to what the future holds, GlobalData’s research suggests the following key areas:

■ Smart and sustainable packaging will exist simultaneously.

■ Renewable energy will become 100% available and used in packaging supply chains.

■ Zero waste will go mainstream, with a shift towards zero packaging design and exploration of technology like water soluble pods.

In conjunction with this research, GlobalData also provided insight from the Pack Track database of key sustainable innovations and improvements found in packaging in 2018. As space is limited, we will just focus on major innovation.

Leading by exampleIn the US, Buhbli organics has launched its unscented Himalayan Bath Salts, which are USDA-certified organic and claimed to contain up to 84 naturally occurring minerals. The sustainable part of this product offering comes from the adaption of Braskem’s I’m green Polyethylene, and the pouch is supplied by Peel Plastics Products.

The primary packaging is a printed clear film (made with 30% plant-based PE) free-standing, quad-sealed type pouch, with a resealable ‘EZ to Close’ Velcro-type plastics closure strip with a series of small interlocking hook fasteners to either side of the top of the pouch.

Observations from GlobalData are that similar closure systems are found on Lundberg Rice, (using Velcro Press-Lok), Anchor Cheese and Kellogg’s Cereals (both use Aplix Fasteners’ Easy-Lok). The use of bio-based flexible packaging in personal care is a major innovation.

Use of plant-based material is communicated to the consumer via a statement printed on the front of the pack. Showing that the company is reducing its reliance on conventional petroleum plastics sends a positive sustainability message.

As it grows, sugarcane utilises carbon dioxide and releases oxygen, giving the material a negative carbon footprint. Using partial bio-based content allows the company to reduce the carbon footprint of its packaging and helps to raise the eco-credentials of a brand with a natural, organic positioning.

The pouch features the ‘EZ to Close’ Velcro-type reseal strip, which is easier and quicker to reclose than traditional grip-strips because it does not rely on the precise alignment of a single strip to be effective. The consumer just needs to press the two sides of the strip together so that the small plastics hooks engage and interlock to give a secure seal.

The closure system reseals the pouch very efficiently to keep the salts dry and prevent clumping caused by moisture ingress. This negates the need to transfer the salts to a separate storage container so product branding is retained throughout the lifetime of the pack.

Benefits of aluminiumIn Italy, Conter has launched its skincare brand Tesori d’Oriente (Treasures of the Orient), which includes the Japanese Rituals and Crema Corpo body creams, enriched with Tsubaki Oil “used in Japan to treat the skin due to its emollient, moisturising and anti-oxidant properties”, and with Peony Oil, resulting in a “voluptuous scent”. These products are free from parabens, synthetic colourants and mineral oils. Packaging is a one piece aluminium jar with aluminium screw cap to close, which provides a far more attractive sustainable material that can be recycled infinitely, as opposed to a lot of the plastic tubs that are currently used, which are less recyclable, if at all.

Observations on this pack include that it’s unusual to see aluminium packaging in the skincare sector, which is normally dominated by plastic or glass packs (and to a lesser extent ceramics). Aluminium adds a noticeable point of difference for the brand. The aluminium pack is lighter than many other materials; therefore, using this format is likely to result in reduced transportation costs and associated CO

2 emissions. All-aluminium jars are easier to recycle as there are no film labels for decoration. Other pack

A persistent frustration with packaging, voiced by customers, is that the recycling or waste management stream is very hard to understand.

The primary packaging is a printed clear film (made with 30% plant-based PE) free-standing, quad-sealed type pouch, with a resealable ‘EZ to Close’

The compact case for Zao’s essence of nature Matte Eyeshadow is made from bamboo cane.




elements (such as the inner lid) can be easily separated for disposal.

Planting a seedAnother sustainable solution found in the skincare market comes from Seed Phytonutrients, which has produced a gentle body cleanser for all skin types, packaged in a moulded pulpboard outer shell made from 100% recycled material.

The ecologic logo is debossed at the bottom of each half of the shell. Inside, the lightweight extrusion blow-moulded HDPE inner bottle is made with 80% post-consumer recycled material. The same pack format is used for shampoo, conditioner, moisturiser and across the rest of the whole range.

The shells are produced using paper and corrugated waste that is partly sourced from a L’Oreal distribution centre. (For every 7t of L’Oreal waste, Ecologic makes 70,000 bottles.) This pack was a Diamond Finalist in Dow Chemical Company’s Packaging Innovation Awards 2018.

The product claims to be the “first ever shower-friendly, post-consumer recycled paper bottle”. Previous Ecologic bottles have featured glued flanges at the sides that tended to come apart over time –sometimes even before the pack was purchased by the consumer – thus affecting pack appearance, rigidity and handling.

The HDPE liner is 60% thinner than typical plastic shampoo and shower gel bottles, weighs just 9g and can be recycled as a blow-moulded bottle, representing an advantage over previous incarnations of the Ecologic pulpboard bottle.

Each pack contains a sachet of heirloom variety herb seeds that the consumer can plant in their own garden. Copy on the back label advises, “Once empty, split the bottle open and discover our heirloom seed packet inside”.

Previous versions of the pack could not be constructed on a fully automated line at high speeds (the gluing process was tricky, as was inserting the flexible pouch liner) and depended largely on manual labour. L’Oreal funded research into a commercially viable pack format and construction process that met the sustainability requirements of its own Seed Phytonutrients brand.

The packaging components can be separated easily for recycling purposes by pulling apart the two halves of the shell. The outer shell can be composted if no recycling facilities

exist and the pack meets ASTM D 6868 composting standards.

Aiming for natural sustainabilityCosmetika France has focused on sustainability with its Zao essence of nature Matte

Eyeshadow, which is made with 100%

natural ingredients, certified organic and claims

to be vegan. The compact case is made from bamboo cane;

short strips are glued together with wood glue, and are used for foundations, powders, blush and eye shadows.

Compact case is made from renewable bamboo, a material that the brand-owner is said to have chosen for its modern, stylish look and for its natural, sustainable credentials. Compact is refillable, making this a sustainable alternative to more

traditional plastics compacts. It can also be used as a durable item, with the colour pans being switched in and out as desired depending on the usage occasion or the season, for example. A pin can be inserted through a small aperture in the base of the compact to push out the colour pan for refilling or swapping.

The compact is supplied in a small cotton bag that is designed to be used for carrying the case to protect it (in a handbag, for example).

Group Lea Nature has created SO’BIO, a “fresh moisturising” organic shower cream of which the “biodegradable formula” is claimed to be natural, enriched with aloe vera, and free from sulphates, parabens, synthetic fragrances, colourants, EDTA and PEGs. Sustainable credentials are provided by the extrusion blow-moulded, opaque white ‘100% plant’ HDPE bottle. The supplier of the bottle is Rebhan FPS Kunststoff-Verpackungen

The rectangular and flat bottle is instantly noticeable on the shelf. It also brings a contemporary feel for a rather traditional shower product. The square bottle is rather awkward to handle, but its flip-top lid allows easy, one-thumb opening. The plant bottle uses technology that converts natural sugars found in plants into the ingredients for making fully recyclable plastic bottles. It looks, functions and recycles like a traditional plastics bottle but has a lighter footprint on the planet.

This plastic bottle, made entirely from plant materials, is mainly advertised through embossed details on either side, which, together with an embossed brand logo on the flip-top lid, adds a tactile element to the pack. It goes well with an organic, natural product, strengthening its environmental credentials.

A plastic tax would bring about significant consumer change; 79% responded that they would buy fewer products less often or stop altogether.

Tesori d’Oriente body cream is packaged in an aluminium jar that can be rcycled inde�nitely.


INNOVATIONOFFSET

2017

1977

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CosmeticsPackaging...The global market This GlobalData report brings together multiple data sources to provide a comprehensive overview of the global cosmetics and toiletries industry