Chemistry and Technology of the

Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry

Chemistry and Technology of the

Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry

Edited by

D.F. WILLIAMS

Environment and Quality Assurance Manager Givaudan-Roure UK

Surrey UK

and

W.H. SCHMITT

Vice President, R&D Chesebrough Ponds, Inc

Connecticut USA

SPRINGER SCIENCE+BUSINESS MEDIA, LLC

First edition 1992

© Springer Science+ Business Media N ew York 1992 Originally published by Blackie Academic & Professional in 1992

Typeset in 10;12 pt Times by Thomson Press (India) Ltd, New Delhi

ISBN 978-94-0lO-5007-4

Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permitted under the UK Copyright Designs and Patents Act, 1988, this publication may not be reproduced, stored, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior permission in writing of the publishers, or in the case of reprographic reproduction only in accordance with the terms of the licences issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency in the UK, or in accordance with the terms of licences issued by the appropriate Reproduction Rights Organization outside the UK. Enquiries concerning reproduction outside the terms stated here should be sent to the publishers at the Glasgow address printed on this page.

The publisher makes no representation, express or implied, with regard to the accuracy of the information contained in this book and cannot accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may be made.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data

Chemistry and technology of the cosmetics and toiletries indus edited by D.F. Williams, W.H. Schmitt.

p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-94-010-5007-4 ISBN 978-94-011-2268-9 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-94-011-2268-9 1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations. 1. Williams, D.F.

II. Schmitt W.H. TP983.C53 1992 668'.5~dc20

91-45657 CIP

x. Printed on permanent acid-free text paper, manufactured in accordance with the proposed ANSI/NISOZ39.48-199X and ANSIZ39.48-1984

Preface

This book is the result of a group of development scientists feeling that there was an urgent need for a reference work that would assist chemists in understanding the science involved in the development of new products. The approach is to inform in a way that allows and encourages the reader to develop his or her own creativity in working with marketing colleagues on the introduction of new products.

Organised on a product category basis, emphasis is placed on formulation, selection of raw materials, and the technology of producing the products discussed. Performance considerations, safety, product liability and all aspects of quality are covered. Regulations governing the production and sale of cosmetic products internationally are described, and sources for updated information provided.

Throughout the book, reference is made to consumer pressure and environmental issues - concerns which the development scientist and his or her marketing counterpart ignore at their own, and their employer's peril. In recent years, many cosmetic fragrances and toiletry products have been converted from aerosols to mechanically pressurised products or sprays, and these are described along with foam products such as hair conditioning mousses.

The information set out in the following pages has been acquired by the hard work and enthusiasm of a number of international authors who hold senior positions within the industry and it has been my privilege to work with William H. Schmitt in bringing together their accumulated knowledge. Information presented is given in good faith and the greatest possible care has been taken to ensure that it is correct. No warranty can, however, be given on fitness for a particular use or freedom from patent infringement. All the information given is for consideration, study and verification. Tt is hoped that the book will inspire newcomers to progress within, and advance, the industry that has provided me with a livelihood and much enjoyment over many years.

D.F.W.

Contributors

Mr J.L. Chester Product Application Manager, Croda Chemieals Ltd, Cowick Hall, Snaith, Goule, North Humberside DN4 9AA, UK

Mr J. Cunningham Vice-President Technical Services, Cosmolab, 1100 Garrett Road, Lewisberg, Tennessee 37091, USA

Mr A. Dallimore Perfumery Director, Phoenix Fragrances Ltd, Unit 1, Lawson Industrial Park, Broadbridge Heath, West Sussex RHI2 3JR, UK

Mr J. Dupuis Technical Officer, Colipa, Rue de la Loi 223 (Bte.2) B 1040, Brussels, Belgium

Mr W. Dupuy Director, Total Quality, Rimmel International, Carlton Road, Ashford, Kent, UK

Mr J. Knowlton Principal Scientist, Johnson and Johnson Ltd, Southampton Road, Cosham, Portsmouth P06 4RL, UK

Dr M. Pader President, Consumer Products Development Resources Inc., 1358 Sussex Road, Teaneck 07666, New Jersey, USA

Mr W.H. Schmitt Senior Vice President, Research and Development, Chesebrough Ponds USA Co., Trumbull Corpora te Park, Merrett Boulevarde, Trumbull, Connecticut 06611, USA

Mr J.J. Shipp Technical Director, Marcus Ellis Ltd, Unit 11, First Avenue, Deeside Industrial Park, Clwyd CH5 2NU, UK

Mr E. Spiess Technical Marketing Manager, Akzo Chemieals GmbH, Research Center, Postfach 100146, D-5160 Ouren, Germany

Mr. M.J. WiIlcox Technical Director, The Standard Soap Co. Ltd, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire LE6 5HG, UK

Mr D.F. Williams Environment and Quality Assurance Manager, Givau­dan-Roure UK, Godstone Road, Whyteleafe, Surrey, UK

Contents

1 Raw materials 1 E. SPIESS

1.1 Introduction I 1.2 Basic surfactants I

1.2.1 Alkyl ether sulfates I 1.2.2 Alkyl sulfates 3 1.2.3 (X-Olefin sulfonates 5 1.2.4 Other basic surfactants 5

1.3 Mild anionic surfactants 6 1.3.1 Sulfosuccinates 6 1.3.2 Cocoyl isethionates 6 1.3.3 Acyl amides 7 \.3.4 Alkyl ether carboxylates 8 1.3.5 Magnesium surfactants 8 1.3.6 Alkyl phosphates 9

1.4 Amphoteric surfactants 9 \.4.1 Alkyl betaines IO \.4.2 Alkylamido betaines IO 1.4.3 Acylamphoglycinates and acylamphapropionates l1 1.4.4 Amine oxides 11

1.5 Non-ionic surfactants 12 1.5.\ Ethoxylated products 12 1.5.2 Alkyl polyglycosides 14

1.6 Shampoo additives 14 1.6.\ Thickeners 14 1.6.2 Foam stabilizers 15 1.6.3 Pearlescent agents 16 1.6.4 Conditioning agents 16

1.7 Cationic surfactants 17 1.7.1 Monoalkyl quaternaries 17 1.7.2 Dialkyl quaternaries \8 1.7.3 Trialkyl quaternaries 18 1.7.4 Benzyl quaternaries 19 1.7.5 Ethoxylated quaternaries 19

1.8 Oil components 20 1.8.\ Mineraloil 20 \.8.2 Natural oils 20 1.8.3 Synthetic oils 21

1.9 Waxes 24 1.9.1 Natural waxes 24 1.9.2 Synthetic waxes 24

1.10 Silicone oils 25 1.11 Cream ba ses 25

1.11.1 Fatty a1cohols 25 1.11.2 Polyol esters 26 1.11.3 Fatty acids 26

X CONTENTS

1.12 Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsiliers 27 1.12.1 Anionic O/W emulsiliers 27 1.12.2 Cationic O/W emulsiliers 27 1.12.3 Non-ionic O/W emulsiliers 27

1.13 Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsiliers 28 1.13.1 Single W /0 emulsiliers 28 1.13.2 Lanolin derivatives 29 1.13.3 Absorption bases 29 1.13.4 W /0 stabilizers 29

1.14 Humectants 29 l.l5 Aerosol propellants 30

l.l5.1 Hydrocarbons 30 1.15.2 Dimethylether 30

References 30

2 Hair-care products 32 J.J. SHIPP

2.1 Introduction 32 2.2 Hair: structure and chemistry 33

2.2.1 Structure of hair keratin 34 2.3 Shampoos 35

2.3.1 Detergents 36 2.3.2 Thickeners and foam stabilisers 41 2.3.3 Perfumes 45 2.3.4 Preservatives 45 2.3.5 Opaciliers and pearlisers 46 2.3.6 Conditioning agents 48 2.3.7 Colours and colour fading 51 2.3.8 Other additives 52

2.4 Conditioners 54 2.4.1 Cationic surfactants 56 2.4.2 Cationic polymers and other active ingredients 59 2.4.3 Bodying agents 62 2.4.4 Auxiliary emulsiliers 62 2.4.5 Oil components 62 2.4.6 Thickeners 62 2.4.7 Perfumes 63 2.4.8 Preservatives 63 2.4.9 Colours 63 2.4.10 Manufacture 64 2.4.11 Clear conditioners 64 2.4.12 Hair thickeners 64 2.4.13 Leave-on conditioners 66 2.4.14 'Hot oils·. tonics and other conditioners 66

2.5 Styling aids 68 2.5.1 Hairsprays 68

2.6 Setting lotions 72 2.7 Other styling aids in spray form 73 2.8 Hair gels 75 2.9 Styling creams and glazes 77 2.10 Hair oils/brilliantines/pomades/styling waxes 78 2.11 Hair creams 79 2.12 Permanent waving 80

2.12.1 Neutralisation 84 2.13 Bleaches 85

CONTENTS XI

2.14 Hair dyes 86 2.14.1 Temporary dyes 86 2.14.2 Semi-permanent colourants 87 2.14.3 Permanent hair dyes 89 2.14.4 Other hair dyes 92 2.14.5 Dye removers 93

2.15 Product evaluation and testing 93 2.15.1 Stability testing 94 2.15.2 Claims justification 94 2.15.3 Prod uct safet y 94

2.16 Summary 95 References 95

3 Skin-eare produets 99 W.H. SCHMITT

3.1 Introduction 99 3.2 Anatomy and physiology of the skin 99

3.2.1 Epidermis 101 3.2.2 Dermis 101

3.3 Test methods 103 3.3.1 Efficacy testing 104

3.4 Formulation 107 3.4.1 Formula information 107 3.4.2 Consumer testing 108 3.4.3 Stability testing 109 3.4.4 Microbiological testing 110 3.4.5 Manufacturing trials 110 3.4.6 Safet y testing 111 3.4.7 Regulatory and environmental requirements 111

3.5 Skin cleansers 112 3.5.1 Anhydrous oily cleansers 113 3.5.2 Water-in-oil emulsions: cold creams 113 3.5.3 Oil-in-water emulsions: cleansing milks 114 3.5.4 Fatted mild syndet foaming bars and cleansers 115 3.5.5 Super fatted bar soaps 116 3.5.6 Astringents/ toners 116 3.5.7 Bar soaps 117 3.5.8 Particulate scrubs 117

3.6 Moisturizers 118 3.6.1 AII-purpose creams 119 3.6.2 Hand and body lotions 120 3.6.3 Hand and body creams 121 3.6.4 Facial moisturizer lotions 121 3.6.5 Facial moisturizer creams: night creams 122

3.7 Anti-ageing products 123 3.8 Sunscreen products 125

3.8.1 Solar radiation 125 3.8.2 Sunscreen chemicals 127 3.8.3 Testing 130 3.8.4 Sunscrccn formulations 131

3.9 Acne 135 3.9.1 Sebaceous gland 136 3.9.2 Acne nomenclature 136 3.9.3 Acne grades 137 3.9.4 Treatment 137

References 138

XII CONTENTS

4 Color cosmetics J. CUNNINGHAM

4.1 Introduction 4.2 Lip color

4.2.1 Lipsticks 4.2.2 Lip glosses 4.2.3 Lip liners

4.3 Nail polish 4.3.1 Consumer expectations 4.3.2 Formulation 4.3.3 Manufacture

4.4 Face make-up 4.4.1 Consumer expectations 4.4.2 Face powders 4.4.3 Liquid foundations 4.4.4 Blushers

4.5 Eye make-up 4.5.1 Eyeshadow 4.5.2 Mascara 4.5.3 Eyeliners

4.6 Color coating 4.7 General considerations

Further reading

5 Baby care J. KNOWLTON

5.1 Introduction 5.2 Specific basic requirements for baby products 5.3 Product types and their presentation

5.3.1 Baby powders 5.3.2 Lotions and creams 5.3.3 Soaps 5.3.4 Hair products 5.3.5 Bath products 5.3.6 Moussed products 5.3. 7 Wipes and tissues 5.3.8 Oils 5.3.9 Perfumes and colognes

5.4 Raw materials for baby products 5.5 Developmental pathways

5.5.1 Formulation development 5.5.2 Practical requirements

5.6 Product evaluation 5.6.1 Laboratory evaluation 5.6.2 Mother and baby panels 5.6.3 Consumer research

5.7 Product safety requirement 5.8 Product preservation 5.9 Product stability 5.10 Manufacture and quality control

5.10.1 Manufacture 5.10.2 Quality control

Reference Further reading

142

142 142 142 147 148 149 149 150 152 153 153 154 157 159 160 160 164 166 169 169 170

171

171 171 172 172 173 175 175 177 177 178 178 179 180 181 181 181 181 181 182 182 183 183 184 185 185 186 186 186

CONTENTS Xlll

6 Ethnic products 187 J.L. CHESTER

6.1 Introduction 187 6.2 Hair structures 187 6.3 Skin characteristics 188 6.4 Hair products 189

6.4.1 Relaxing and restyling products 189 6.4.2 Hair pomades and grooming aids 201

6.5 Skin products 203 6.5.1 Raw material selection - factors for consideration 203 6.5.2 Emulsification systems 205

6.6 General practical considerations 208 Further reading 209

7 Dental products 210 M. PADER

7.1 Introduction 210 7.2 The human dentition and its environment 212

7.2.1 Teeth and associated oral structures 212 7.2.2 Saliva and crevicular fluid 213

7.3 Oral accretions and conditions 214 7.3.1 Role of oral hygiene 214 7.3.2 Dental pellic\e 214 7.3.3 Dental plaque 215 7.3.4 Dental calculus (tartar) 217 7.3.5 Periodontal diseases 218 7.3.6 Dental stain 220 7.3.7 Dental hypersensitivity 221 7.3.8 Oral malodor 221

7.4 The toothbrush and other mechanical aids 222 7.4.1 Toothbrush function 222 7.4.2 Toothbrush construction and design 223 7.4.3 Toothbrush efficacy 223 7.4.4 Toothbrush safety 224 7.4.5 Other mechanica1 aids 224

7.5 Active agents 224 7.5.1 Introduction 224 7.5.2 Fluoride 225 7.5.3 Anti-plaquejanti-gingivitis agents 226 7.5.4 Anti-calculus agents 230 7.5.5 Desensitizing dentifrices 230

7.6 Dentifrices 231 7.6.1 Functions 231 7.6.2 General principles 232 7.6.3 Basic dentifrice ingredients 234 7.6.4 Flavor and cosmetic attributes 245 7.6.5 Formulation principles 245 7.6.6 Efficacy of dentifrice as a dosage form 247 7.6.7 Dentifrice manufacture 248 7.6.8 Dentifrice packaging 249

7.7 Oral rinses 250 7.7.1 Function 250 7.7.2 Dosage forms and formtriations 251 7.7.3 Pre-brushing dental rinse 253 7.7.4 Manufacture and packaging 253

XIV CONTENTS

7.8 Specialty products 253 7.8.1 Tooth whiteners 253 7.8.2 Products for the edentulous 254

References 255

8 Perfumery 258 A. DALLIMORE

8.1 Introduction 258 8.2 Fragrance- a definition 258 8.3 Role of fragrance 258 8.4 Perfumery raw materials 259

8.4.1 Natural perfumery raw materials 259 8.4.2 Synthetic perfumery raw materials (aroma chemicals) 260

8.5 Deve10pment of a fragrance 262 8.5.1 The brief 262 8.5.2 The creative process 264 8.5.3 Evaluation and marketing of the new creation 266

8.6 The current market in fine fragrance 267 8.6.1 The trickle-down etTect 268

8.7 Odour types 268 8.8 Technical performance of perfumes 268 8.9 Stability testing 271 8.10 Compounding 271 8.11 Quality control 272 8.12 Special additives 273 8.13 Glossary of odour descriptors 273 Further reading 274

9 Personal hygiene products 275 M.J. WrLLCOX

9.1 Introduction 275 9.2 Soap and other solid bathing products 275

9.2.1 Toilet soaps 275 9.2.2 Shaving soaps 280 9.2.3 Transparent/translucent soaps 280 9.2.4 Synthetic detergent/combination bars 283 9.2.5 Bath salts/bath crystals/bath cubes 283

9.3 Liquid bathing and showering products 285 9.3.1 Foam baths 285 9.3.2 Bath oils 289 9.3.3 Shower gels 292 9.3.4 After-bath and after-shower conditioners 293

9.4 Antiperspirants and deodorants 293 9.4.1 Antiperspirants 293 9.4.2 Deodorants 298 9.4.3 Performance testing 299 9.4.4 Chemicals suppliers 300

References 300

10 Quality, safety and legislation 302 J. DUPUIS and W. DUPUY

10.1 Introduction to quality 302 10.2 Definition of quality 302 10.3 Inspection 303

CONTENTS

10.4 Prevention 10.5 Total quality

10.5.1 Product design 10.5.2 Quality assurance 10.5.3 Manufacturing processes and technology 10.5.4 Cost of quality 10.5.5 Human and organisational aspects

10.6 The new thinking 10.7 Quality standards and guides

10.7.1 Links between ISO 9000 and total quality 10.8 Legislation

10.8.1 Historical development 10.8.2 Need for regulation 10.8.3 Self-regulation 10.8.4 Regulations in the US 10.8.5 Regulations in Japan 10.8.6 Regulations in Europe 10.8.7 Regulations in other countries

10.9 General considerations 10.9.1 Environmental impact 10.9.2 Animal protection and rights 10.9.3 Definition as cosmetic or drug 10.9.4 Product Iiability

References Further reading

Appendices

Appendix I List of suppliers Appendix 11 Useful addresses

Index

xv

304 305 307 309 309 310 310 312 313 313 314 314 315 315 316 317 318 320 320 320 321 321 321 322 322

323

323 325

327