Balenciaga Museum (on-line version)

Stefano Mirti’s Blueberries

Balenciaga Museum (On-line Version)

055/388

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Cristobal is the only designer of his times that who could design, cut, assemble and sew a dress all on his own.

~ Coco Chanel




Stefano’s Blueberries Balenciaga Museum (On-line Version) 055/388

1957, Museo Balenciaga Getaria

Cristóbal Balenciaga, Sweater and Skirt

-in plain green wool knit-

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With the introduction of new textiles, Balenciaga’s designs experienced changes. More ductile fabrics (such as this machine-made knit) and new colours allowed the master to design comfortable and elegant day wear. These garments show one of the different versions of the tunic dress launched in 1955. The master’s practical sense is highlighted in this day outfit in the line of the neck, which highlights the nape, and in the importance given to the loose-fitting back, pulled in with a loop.














Cristóbal Balenciaga, Tailored Suit

-in flecked grey wool and smooth black silk velvet; handmade-




-in flecked grey wool and smooth black silk velvet; handmade; worn by Rita María Fernández-Rivera y Gómez-






Below-the-hip jacket with shoulder pads. The bottom has lead weights to maintain the hang. The waist is cinched and the torso fitted with darts. Turndown collar in smooth black silk velvet and lapels trimmed in the same material. Oblique open pockets outlined in smooth black velvet on the front panels. Fastens at the front with faceted glass-paste buttons. The sleeves are long and have a turnback cuff. The straight skirt, fitted with darts, is évasée.






This magnificent two-piece suit was made in Spain for the 1947 winter collection, model number 60. Although the shoulders are still reinforced with shoulder pads—de riguer in the suits of the 1940s—in this model Balenciaga offered a taste of the aesthetic that would triumph in the 1950s. That same year, Christian Dior created the successful “New Look”, characterised by fitted bodices, wasp waists and pronounced hips.















Cristóbal Balenciaga, Dress

-in green gros de Naples with transparent, machine-made tulle and green gros de Naples overskirt; worn by Mrs Bouilloux-Laffont-





-in green gros de Naples with transparent, machine-made tulle and green gros de Naples overskirt-

Dress and overskirt ensemble. The pale-green gros de Naples dress is complemented with a draped, machine-made tulle transparency and decorated with polka dots. The bodice is fitted, strapless, reinforced with boning and padding at the chest. In the same tulle as the transparency, a piece sewn at the front of the neckline can be used as a stole. Decorated with black silk satin bows at the base of the skirt and at the front of the neckline.






The pale green gros de Naples overskirt can be worn in two ways, either at the waist as an overskirt, or fitting it to the neck, like a puffed cape.






The dress, made in the workshops of Paris and presented in the 1956 winter collection, has all the characteristics of the typical 1950s silhouette: a corset to mould the waist, deep neckline and full skirt. Without a doubt, the novelty of this garment lies in the multipurpose outer piece. Whether worn as a cape or an overskirt, it gives the dress a regal presence.











More dresses at this fantastic on-line version of Balenciaga Museum: http://www.cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com/Home.html


http://www.cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com/Home.html





Cristóbal Balenciaga, Short Jacket

-in blue silk velvet, decorated with piping and glass-paste beading; worn by Sonsoles de Icaza y de León, Marchioness of Llanzol-





-in blue silk velvet, decorated with piping and glass-paste beading-

Short jacket with square collar. The panels come to a peak at the front. Three-quarter-length sleeves. Adorned with piping and glass-paste beading, creating floral and heart-shaped motifs. The front and sleeves are decorated with tassels.






Made in Spain. Balenciaga was inspired by the short bullfighter jackets, characterised by their style and by the intricate decoration in braids and beads, inherited from the 18th-century clothing of the majos. This jacket, also called a shrug or bolero, is a beautiful example of those presented by the couturier in his 1947 winter collection.







Documents

Balenciaga Museum (on-line version)