8/8/2019 Asia Wine Journal Paul Jaboulet - Part 1

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In conversation with an enthusiast at a recent wine dinner, thesubject turned to the staggering price that a case o 1961 PaulJaboulet La Chapelle (rouge) etched in the latest Christies Fine andRare Wine Auction in London, a whopping GBP123,750 (S$342,000)inclusive o taxes and premiums, setting a new European record orthe amount paid or a single case o wine.

With a grimacing smile, that expression o anguish which canonly be counteracted by laughing at the situation, our enthusiastrecounted an incident some years back where he had purchased outo auction, fve bottles o 1961 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle and hadthem air-reighted to Singapore. He was away when the wines arrivedhowever, his maid dutiully unpack the contents, observing they werecovered in thick mouldy grime and cobwebs, decided to wash them,presenting sir with the sparkling clean and shiny bottles upon hisreturn. She declared it took her hours o soaking in hot soapy waterand scrubbing, along with the entire contents o glass cleaner and agreat deal o eort to polish the bottles! Consequently, he drank thewines in rapid succession over business lunches reciting the fasco,seeing the humour in the tale as some consolation and expectingthe worst or the wine. Much to his surprise (relie) they all were allreasonably good bottles although, having tried the wine beore, notthe ambrosial elixir he had previously experienced.

The conversation moved to successive vintages o La Chapelle thatmight equal the enduring 1961. Going by the vintage charts andomnipotent wine critic and Rhone Valley enthusiast Robert ParkerJr (Parker), scoring both the 1978 and 1990 a perect 100, are theobvious candidates. Dr N K Yong, arguably the most erudite andseasoned fne wine palate in Asia, oered his opinion based oncountless visits to Jaboulet and in-depth conversations with the lateGerard Jaboulet, that whilst the 1978 was a most impressive wine,the 1990 is a stronger contender to match the 1961. Dr N KYongssentiments are corroborated by Parkers comment, The modern dayequivalent o the 1961, it deserves all the attention it has garnered.

Seeking a dierent perspective rom the British palate I researchedurther on Jancis Robinsons excellent website www.jancisrobinson.com. Robinson wrote a compelling article Hermitage La Chapelle the rise and all o a great wine, published in January 2006,including tasting notes o 34 vintages o La Chapelle, 2000 to1955, ranking 1961, 1990, 1991, 1972, 1982 and 1964 as the mostoutstanding vintages.

Interestingly she does not view the 1978 in the same light asParker, although awarding it an admirable score o 17 points out o20, and commenting that this was a good bottle as ar as condition,however declaring it at its peak in 2006 and stating, I cant see thiswine improving but it is all in the right place now. Slightly drying onthe fnish. Cool. Didnt improve with time alas. Conversely, Parker, inhis tasting notes rom June 2000, indicates the wine living until 2030.Perhaps it is appropriate to apply the old adage, There are no great

wines, only great bottles.

Paul JabouletHermitage La Chapel le RougeIs there another 1961 equIvalent In the offerIng? CuIsIne & WIne asIas

ContrIbutIng WIne edItor CurtIs Marsh ponders the latest staggerIng

auCtIon result at ChrIstIes.

8/8/2019 Asia Wine Journal Paul Jaboulet - Part 1

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Out o curiosity I looked up the 1990 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelleon www.winesearcher.com observing that Fine & Rare Wines(www.rw.co.uk) were oering a case at GBP7917 (S$21,886) beoretaxes, approximately a paltry 8 percent o the cost o 1961!Furthermore, Seckord Wines (www.seckordwines.co.uk) listed a case

o 6 magnums or GBP7960 (S$22,000), similar money yet we allknow that magnums sell at a signifcant premium; you could say arelative bargain. Notwithstanding the horse has already bolted,surely there still ample, possibly extraordinary, upside with the 1990or the astute collector-investor. The way that interest rates areretreating although the bearish mood o the stock market is aconcern, assuming the demand or such fne and rare wines continuesunabated, as it has over the last fve years or so, I would suggest this is avery good investment.

Moreover, most wine enthusiasts are aware that Paul Jaboulet Aine wasacquired by Swiss fnancier Jean-Jacques Frey in 2006, and just likeFreys purchase o Chateau La Lagune, expect exponential changes in thevineyard and winery, and a quantum leap in quality. The transitional

period is never easy yet the Paul Jaboulet wines (particularly La Chapelle)that are currently on the market are steadily improving, largely througha commendable strict barrel selection and with the introduction o LaPetite Chapelle or declassifed components, thus successully producingan admirable 2004 and 2005 La Chapelle.

The 2006 and 2007 vintages in Northern Rhone are supposedlymeritorious so it will certainly be intriguing to see how thesewines turn out. Personally, I am even more interested in JabouletNorthern Rhone whites, having cut my teeth on Jaboulet Chevalierde Sterimberg as a budding young sommelier, notwithstandingthe new additions La Chapelle Blanc and Petite La Chapelle Blanc.Furthermore, one cannot help but eel enthusiastic about thewhole extensive Jaboulet range, owning vineyards in most strategicappellations throughout the Northern and Southern Rhone, whether it

is their icon La Chapelle or dependable Crozes Hermitage Domaine deThalabert; my uture expectations o this venerable Rhone Valley houseare exceedingly high.

I visited the Paul Jaboulet cellars in early April and tasted through theirentire range, and was treated to bottle o 1990 La Chapelle over lunch!Part 2 o this story will include my tasting notes and urther insight.

Must dash, need to talk to my London wine merchant about securingmagnums o 1990 Jaboulet La Chapelle!

f m imi p J, ii www.j.cm