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8/3/2019 Amm 13 Developing t&A
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SMART Merchandiser
UNIT VII
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DEVELOPING T&A
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MERCHANDISING
To make available the
Right quantity of
Right quality
merchandise to the customer on
TIME
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Different working scenarios
Many Customers
± Many Styles Many Designs
Limited Customers
± Many Styles
Limited Designs
MERCHANDISING
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MERCHANDISER IS A ONE
POINT C
ONTACT F
OR TH
E CUSTOMER
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MERCHANDISING
Merchandiser Responsible for
± Samples
± Costing ± Materials
± Production
± Delivery
ALL THESE TASKS MUST BE PERFOMED
IN A PRE-DETERMINED TIME FRAME
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THE TOTAL PRODUCTION PROCESS
INVOLVES MANY DEP ARTMENTS
ITS TE AM MANAGEMENT
ITS TIME MANAGEMENT
MERCHANDISING
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BUYER VENDOR
MERCHANT
TECH
PACK &STYLE
P O
SAMPLING
I E
SAM &
SAMPLE
VENDOR
MERCHANTBUYER
CONSUMER
VENDOR
MERCHANT
SAMPLING
SOURCING
FABRIC
MILL
FABRIC
SWATCH
BULK
FABRIC
LAB TESTS,
REPORTS &
APPROVALS
BULK
FABRIC
APPROVAL
BULK
FABRIC IN-
HOUSE
FABRIC
INSPECTION
CUT PLAN &
CUTTING
BU NDLING &
NUMBERING
EMBROIDER Y
& PRINTING SEWING
CHECKING &
TRIMMING
FINISHING
& IRONING
TAGGING &
PACKINGFINAL
INSPECTIONDOCUMENTS
DELIVER Y
TO
FORWARDER
STORE
WAREHOUSE
CONSUMER
PROCESS FLOW IN APPAREL INDUSTR YDESIGNER
COTTON
SPINNING
WEAVING
PROCESSING
FINISHING
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Month Event Start Date End Date Job owner Task
Jan ± Feb Fabricshows
10th
January28
th
FebruaryFabricdesigner or
designer
Visit fabric trade shows in Europe, AsiaAnd North America look for fabric
trends, designs, colors, constructions
and qualities. Collect new fabric
developments. Place order for
sample yardages.
Jan ±
June Women¶swear
shows
5th
January
30th June Designer Visit women¶s wear international trade
shows particularly those held in Paris,Milan, London, NewYork, and Hong
Kong for inspiration. Identify emerging
fashion trends and styles.
June ±
Sept
Work at
studio
30th
June
30th
September
Designer /
Technician
Develop alternate themes / stories.
Prepare sketches, color schemes.
Develop lines or collections. Discuss
and select items for each line. Finalizenumber of lines. Select fabrics and
colors for each item and line. Select
Trims and accessories
Oct ± Nov
Work at
studio
1st
October
20th
November
Designer /
Technician
Finalize styles and details. Select
sketches, fabric combos, trims and
accessories, measurements, and
construction details. Prepare tech-pack and release to buyer.
Designer¶s Calendar
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December Work at
buyer¶s
office
1st
December
15th
December
Buyer Buyer sends the tech-packs to selected vendors for
product development. As the buyer sources from
selected vendors, he considers them reliable andconsistent in their performance in the past seasons.
December
- January
Work at
vendor¶s
company
20th
December
15th
January
Vendor Selected vendors receive the tech-pack with
instructions. Usually 10 days time is given to make
the samples. A final date is set when the line
samples have to be ready and dispatched.
Merchandiser arranges for fabrics and trims.Sample department readies patterns and makes
samples. It takes 10 ± 15 days depending
availability. Outer limit for sample exit to the buyer
will be 15th January.
January Work at
buyer¶s
office
20th
January
31st
January
Buyer Buyer receives samples from all suppliers or
vendors by 20th January. He makes a line review
with all complete samples in actual fabrics andtrims. He then organizes a review with his middle
management. Date about 25th January. The next
presentation will be to all his store managers.
Feedback from them is important in deciding
which items will remain and which to be knocked
out of the line. Date about 30th January. Finally,
line is reviewed by top management and approved.
Date about 5th February. The line is ready for the
Autumn / Winter.
Designer¶s Calendar
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February Buyer¶s
office
10th
February
20th
February
Buyer Buyer prepares the purchase orders based on the
vendors whose samples are selected. Based on
his buying plan, he may also give some styles /
quantities to those vendors whose samples werenot selected. He needs to maintain a good
relationship with all his vendors.
Designer¶s Calendar
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(DEC 16 -
22)
(DEC 23 - 29) (Dec 31 -
JAN 6)
(JAN 7 - 13) (JAN 14 - 20) (JAN 21 - 27)
10-Dec 20-Dec 13-Jan Jan-20 25-Jan
1. Buyer
sends tech-
packs
1. Proto
sample
making
starts
1. Proto sample
making
1. Proto
sample
making
1.Proto sample
making
2.Proto sample
exit
1. Buyer
receives proto
samples
1. Line review 1
3.Product
Costing
(JAN 28-
FEB 03)
(FEB 04 -
10)
(FEB 11 - 17)
1
(FEB 18
± 24 ) 2
(FEB 25 - MAR
3) 3
(MAR 4 - 10)
4
(MAR 11 - 17) 5
30-Jan 5-Feb 15-Feb 20-Feb 2-Mar 5-Mar 17-Mar
1. Line
review 2
1. Line
review 3
1. Buyer releases
purchase order
2. Buyer sendcomments on
proto sample
(First fit sample)
1. 2nd Fit
Sample
exists
1. 2nd Fit
approved
2. Fabric & trimsapproved
Raw material
ordered
Raw material
production
3.Raw material
sourcing starts
4. Vendor
receives PO and
comments
Merchandiser's Calendar f or Fall '08
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Merchandiser is responsible for all activities.
Of all departments
Concerning theP
urchaseO
rder Merchandiser to make action plan for PO
Identify tasks by each department
Assign time for each task
if needed for each sub-task
Merchandiser to assign dates
MERCHANDISING & TIME
MANAGEMENT
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Merchandising Process
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Sample Process
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Sourcing Process
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Material Quality Process
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Production Process
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Gantt Chart in Merchandising
Identify Key Tasks
Identify milestones ± the key task and time
Assign key tasks to the team ± withinmerchandising, sample, sourcing,
production departments
Identify key task owner
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Define Milestones
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Prepare Gantt Chart
Prepare the Gantt Chart by department
± The Key task
± TaskO
wner ± Start Date
± End Date
± Duration
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GANTT CHART
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Gantt Chart
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PERT Chart
Key Task Predecessor Optimistic
(a)
Normal
(b)
Pessimistic
(c )
Expected Time
Te=(O+4M+P)/6
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Start
F
C
GE
D
B
A
Finish
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Creating a PERT Diagram
Determine the Early Start & Finish of each activity by:
± Start at the beginning move towards the end
± ES & EF for the start activity is always 0 since they are
milestones
± Use the EF of the predecessor activity as the ES of
the current activity
± EF of an activity is computed by adding its ES with its
duration ± For activities with 2 or more predecessor activities,
use the predecessor with the higher EF as the ES of
the current activity
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Start
D:0
ES:0
EF:0
LS:0
LF:0
F
D:4.5
ES:10.33
EF:14.83
LS:15.01
LF:19.51
CD:5.17
ES:4
EF:9.17
LS:4
LF:9.17
G
D:5.17
ES:14.34
EF:19.51
LS:14.34
LF:19.51
E
D:5.17
ES:9.17
EF:14.34
LS:9.17
LF:14.34
D
D:6.33
ES:4
EF:10.33
LS:8.68
LF:15.01
BD:5.33
ES:0
EF:5.33
LS:3.84
LF:9.17
A
D:4
ES:0
EF:4
LS:0
LF:4
Finish
D:0
ES:19.51
EF:19.51
LS:19.51
LF:19.51
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Creating a PERT Diagram
Compute for the critical path by adding the duration's of
various paths for all activities
D
etermine if any activities have slack by subtracting theactivity¶s LF & EF
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Critical Path
Critical Path: A-C-E-G
Path A-D-F = 14.83 work days
Path A-C-E-G = 19.51 work days Path B-E-G = 15.67 work days
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TIME IS COST Cost of material is physical cost
Cost of time is intrinsic cost or invisible cost Time available for sourcing to production is 90 days.Delay in inspection consumed 2 more days. Plannedshipment on 3rd of May, now delayed to 5th May
Vessel movements ± feeder from Chennai toColombo thrice weekly-Monday/Wednesday/Saturday
Custom clearance and cargo movement need 2 daysprior to sailing. Vessel sailing on 8th Saturday
Vessel movements ± mother vessel from Colombothrice a month ± 1st / 10th / 20th
Planned for 10th vessel. New sailing date 20th
Sailing time from Colombo to NY 24 days
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Buyer Plan ± in store on 5th
JuneFeeder
Vessel
Mother
Vessel
Sailing
Time
Total
Transit
Time
3rd May 10th May 24 days 32 days
Revised Schedule due to delay ± in store 19th June
5th May 20th May 24 days 40 days
A TWO DAY DELAY CAUSED LOSS OF SALE
OF TWO WEEKS OF A TOTAL OF FIVE WEEKS
TIME IS COST