ACTIMP Powder Bio - RAHN-Group

ACTIMP® Powder Bio

Photoaging & Chronoaging

prevention

Cosmetic Active Ingredients

ACTIMP® - October 20182

❑ Sourcing & Process

❑ Concept - photo & chronoaging

❑ Biological activity: - dermal-epidermal junction reinforcement

- dermis structure strenghtening

- tightening effect (skin elasticity & firmness)

❑ Claims & formulation

❑ Conclusion

Table of contents

White Sweet

Lupin



Organic Sweet White Lupin❑ France sourcing, sustainable & organic

❑ Uses : feed (high nutritional values) & food (vegetable

protein & gluten free)

ACTIMP®: Lupin hydrolysate

❑ 2 versions:

o Preservative-free powder(100% COSMOS organic certified)

o Liquid version (preserved)

❑ 100% peptides - no residual protein

❑ Patents: WO0062789 / FR 1456385 (July 2014)

Sourcing & process



Process

ACTIMP® - technical information

❑ elimination of residual proteins

❑ INCI: Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

- IECIC listed - July 2014 (China)

- CTFA 2004 listed

Molecular

mass (Da)

< 300 300 - 1200 1200 - 3500 > 3500

Peptides distribution (%)

< 25 40 - 55 25-40 < 5

ACTIMP®

Powder Bio

Concept



Concept

Fibroblastscontractile forces

Collagens I & III

MMP 1, MMP 3

Laminine 5 Collagen IV

MMP 9, MMP 3

1

Strengthen

DEJ

2

Strenghten

dermis

3

Tightening

effect

ACTIMP®

ACTIMP®: 3 actions to fight the effects of

chronoaging and photoaging

ACTIMP® Powder Bio

Biological activity:in-vitro and ex-vivo

tests



ACTIMP® preserves the epidermis-dermis cohesion

1. Dermal-epidermal junction reinforcement

Laminine 5

Stimulation of Laminine 5 expressiono Laminine 5 = key consitutant ensuring the epidermis-DEJ anchoring.

o skin explants – topical application ACTIMP® Powder Bio(0,2%)



+142%

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

450

500

Control cells UVA-irradiated

cells

ref. (retinoïc

acid+ EGF)

Lupin peptides

0.2%

ACTIMP® reinforces the DEJ to preserve skin tonicity

even under stress conditions

MMP9 release by UV irradiated fibroblasts

Collagen IV = major structural consitutant of the DEJ ensuring its mechanical stability.

Chronoaging

prevention

Photoaging

prevention

1. Dermal-epidermal junction reinforcement

Collagen IV

ACTIMP®



2. Dermis reinforcement

Collagens types I & III

Stimulation of Collagens type I & III expressiono Fibrous collagens, major of the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM)

o form a three-dimensional network → skin firmness and resistance

o skin explants – topical application ACTIMP® Powder Bio (0,2%)

ACTIMP® prevents the loss of skin firmness and resistance



Collagen I synthesis by aged fibroblastso pro-collagen I released by fibroblasts prematurely aged via H2O2 vs

normal fibroblasts - ACTIMP® Powder Bio(0,1% and 0,2%)


Collagen I

-53%**

+45%

** +26%

**

+55%

*

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

4000

4500

Normal

fibroblasts

aged

fibroblasts

ref. (TGFb) Lupin peptides

0.1%

Lupin peptides

0.2%

Pro

-co

lla

ge

nI

(ng

/mL )

Production of pro-collagen I in H2O2-aged fibroblasts

ACTIMP® restores the production of collagen I by aged fibroblasts




MMPs inhibition

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

Control cells UVA-irradiated

cells

ref. (retinoïc

acid+ EGF)

Lupin peptides

0.2%

MMP 1,9,3 released by UV irradiated fibroblasts

MMP1 -97%MMP9 -100%MMP3 -98%

-41%

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

Control UVA Lupin peptides

(0,3%)+ UVA

Gene expression of MMP1 in UV irradiated

reconstructed skins (12L/cm² - 6h)

* *

*

**

*

*

*

*

*

*

*0

20

40

60

80

100

120

1 hour 2 hours 24 hours

MMP activity (in-tubo)*p<0.05 vs control

Control

ACTIMP Powder 0,004%

ACTIMP Powder 0,02%

ACTIMP Powder 0,04%

ACTIMP Powder 0,2%

MMP activity: quantification of the degradation of fluorescent gelatin by purified collagenase.

Chronoaging

prevention

Photoaging

preventionACTIMP®

ACTIMP® prevents the degradation of the

macromolecules of the dermis

-59%

-93%

-98%



3. Tightening effectGlaSBox®

Stimulation of contractile forces developed by fibroblasts

GlaSBox® system (Growing Lattice Study Box): measure in real-time the

contractile forces developed by fibroblasts (collagen lattice under strain)

Fibroblast

Collagen fibers

Fibroblastcontractile forces

Collagen lattice

Thin siliconslide = sensor

Force



3. Tightening effectGlaSBox®

ACTIMP® boosts the contractile forces of the fibroblasts improving skin

firmness and elasticity

Stimulation of contractile forces developed by fibroblasts

Contractile forces vs non treated DE

Non-treatedcollagen

lattice

Collagenlattice

+ ACTIMP®



3. Tightening effectAged dermal equivalents (DE)

Stimulation of “aged” dermal equivalents contractiono Model = (fibroblasts + collagen solution) disks = dermal equivalents

o Assessment of the quality of interactions between the fibroblasts

and the collagen fibers.

o ACTIMP® Powder Bio (0,1%) on “aged” dermal equivalents vs control

ACTIMP® enables the aged dermal equivalents to recover

62% of their contractile capacity vs young control dermis.

180

190

200

210

220

230

240

250

Control (young) DE aged DE Reference (TGF) aged DE +

ACTIMP Powder

0,1%

DE a

rea

(m

m²)

aft

er

4 d

ay

s

Effect on the contraction of aged dermal equivalents

°°p<0.01 vs. control DE

* p<0.05 ; ** p<0.01 vs. aged DE

62% contractile force recovered+14%

°°

-8%

**

-15%

*

ACTIMP®

Conclusion



Conclusion

ACTIMP® prevents the visible signs of aging,

preserving the skin’s firmness and tonicity.

Laminin 5

Collagen IV

Collagens I

Collagen III

MMP 1,9,3

Contractile

forces of

fibroblasts

Prevention of

DEJ aging

Prevention of

dermis agingThightening

effect



ACTIMP®: cosmetic claims

Photoaging & chronoaging

Skin elasticity

Skin tonicity

Skin firmness

Tightening effect



ACTIMP®

Discover our Act’n Pulp formulation with ACTIMP®

PHASE COMMON NAME INCI NAME SUPPLIER QUANTITY

DEIONIZED WATER Aqua 88,87%

EDETA BD Disodium EDTA BASF 0,10%

NATROSOL 250 HR PC Hyroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Nitrate, Aqua, Glyoxal IMCD 0,25%

ARISTOFLEX VELVET Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Aqua TER 0,50%


HYDROLITE-5 Pentylene Glycol SAFIC-ALCAN 1,00%

CHLORPHENESIN BP 73 Chlorphenesin, Aqua AZELIS 0,28%

C PHENOXETOL Phenoxyethanol CLARIANT 0,80%


ACTIMP® Powder Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein LABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE 0,20%


EFFIPULP®Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract and

MaltodextrinLABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE 0,60%


TIMIRON SUPER SILVER FINE CI 77019, CI 77891 MERCK 0,08%

PARFUM CORPOREL LUMIERE

D'AMBRE 0611663Parfum EXPRESSIONS PARFUMEES 0,10%

AQUEOUS SOLUTION OF NaOH 10% Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide 0,22%

FORMULA

G

A

B

D

E

F

A Precious Serum

improving skin firmness



Laboratoires Expanscience

1 Place des Saisons

92048 Paris La Défense Cedex

www.expanscience.com

For further information…

http://www.expanscience-ingredients.com/

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ACTIMP Powder Bio - RAHN-Group