Textile Engineering Profession

Granch Berhe, November 2014

Introduction

Textiles, generic term (from Latin texere, “to weave”).

Originally applied to woven fabrics, but now also applied to natural and synthetic filaments, yarns, and threads as well as to the woven, non-woven, composites & knitted

Granch Berhe, 2014 2

Finishing (Treatment)

GarmentingGranch Berhe, 2014 3

Part IManufacturing and

Processing of Textiles


1.1. Fiber Manufacturing

Fiber is the basic unit of any textile material

Fine is a hair like structure, of animal, vegetable, mineral, or synthetic origin.

Commercially available fibers have diameters ranging from less than 0.004 mm (0.00015 in) to 0.2 mm (0.008 in)

They come in several different forms: – Short fibers (known as staple, or chopped), – Continuous single fibers (monofilament), – Untwisted bundles of continuous filaments (tow),

– Twisted bundles of continuous filaments (yarn).


Classification of Textile Fibers

Natural fibers Animal

Hair Secretion

Rubber Vegetable

Seed Bast Leaf Fruit

Mineral

Man-made fibers Regenerated

Cellulosic • Pure • Modified

• Misc.protein

• vegetable • Animal

Synthetic Inorganic

Textile fibersMan-made fibers

RegeneratedCellulosic

• Pure-viscose rayon

• Modified-tricel

• Misc.-aligate

protein • Vegetable-zein

• Animal-casein

Synthetic –polyester, nylon,PE Inorganic-glass, metals


Natural fibers exist ready made in nature, man doesn’t contribute any thing else to the formation of fiber Man made fibers are made by man starting from various kinds of raw materials. Starting materials of regenerated fibers are naturally existing polymers like cellulose and proeinStarting material of synthetic fibers are synthetic polymers manufactured from monomers by polymerization processBasic principle in fiber manufacturing: conversion of the fiber-forming substance into a fluid by solution or melting; extrusion of the fluid through spinnerets; solidification of the extruded filaments and then drawing.


Fiber Spinning Machine


The object of spinning and of the processes that precede it is to transform the single fibers into a cohesive and workable continuous-length yarn.

The process of making yarns from the textile fiber is called spinning. It is colloquially used to describe the process of:

Drawing outInserting the twistWinding onto bobbins.

There are different types of spinning, most commonly are:

•Ring•Rotor spinning•Air Jet •Friction etc.

1.2. Yarn Manufacturing


Major Operational Sections of spinning


The blow room is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. Briefly,

Basic operations in the blow room are fiber; Opening Cleaning Mixing Micro-dust removal Even/uniform feed to the carding machine

Blow Room


Machines Installation in Blow Room

End product: Tuft/Flock/Lap

1. Type of raw material

2. Dirt content 2 Material

throughput


Carding is known as heart of spinningObjectives of carding

Opening the tufts into individual fibers Eliminating remaining impuritiesRemoving short fibers and neps Parallelizing and stretching of fibers Transforming lap into sliver

Carding


Carding Machine

End product: Carded SliverGranch Berhe, 2014 14

Drawing (or drafting) is a process of reducing the thickness of feed material, which is usually carried out with a set of rollers.

The idea of combining 6 to 8 slivers (also called doubling) is to even out the variations present in the card sliver, so that the output is uniform.

Draw frame

End product: Drawn SliverGranch Berhe, 2014 15

In this process, the draw frame sliver is further drafted to the required thickness which can be handled efficiently by the next process.

Transforming the sliver into roving occurs in a continuous manner through three stages:• Drawing• Twisting• Winding

Roving frame

End product: RovingGranch Berhe, 2014 16

Ring frame is an operation at which yarn is obtained.The objectives of ring spinning are:• To thin out the roving and give it the desired count

• To impart a specific twist to the yarn so as to give the yarn the desired resistance

• To collect the yarn into a package (i.e. the bobbin) for simpler storage and handling.

RING FRAME.

End product: YarnGranch Berhe, 2014 17

Weaving is the interlacing of two systems of yarns, which interlaced at right angle to each other. The lengthwise threads are called warp while the crosswise threads are called weft.

1.3. Fabric Manufacturing


Basic Operational Section of Weaving


Cone Winding

• Winding is a process of transferring yarns from ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc into a convenient form of packages containing considerably long length of yarn.

• The main purpose of winding or packaging is to form a single yarn package suitable for the next operation.

End product: ConeGranch Berhe, 2014 20

WarpingWarping is aimed at preparing the weaver’s beam to be set up on the weaving machine. Warping carries out following operations :

Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads (creel load), of a warp composed of any number of threads with the desired length.

Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired sequence.

The industrial warping process can be carried out according to two different technologies:

• Sectional warping (conical drum or indirect warping).

• Beam warping or direct warping (preparatory beam warping).

End product: Warp BeamGranch Berhe, 2014 21

Sizing• Sizing is the application of adhesive coating in the warp threads before weaving.

• The warp yarns can withstand the complex stresses to which they are subjected in the weaving machine.

• The size is usually a starch paste containing softening and other ingredients. End product: Sized

Warp BeamGranch Berhe, 2014 22

Tying-in

• Tying-in is used when a fabric is being mass produced.

• The tail end of the warp from the exhausted weaver’s beam is tied to the beginning of the new warp.

• Therefore, if every end on the new beam is tied to its corresponding end on the old beam

• Following the tying-in process, all knots are pulled through the drop wires, heddles and the reed. The loom is now ready for operation.

End product: Tied Warp BeamGranch Berhe, 2014 23

Weaving• To interlace the warp and the weft thread on

anyntype of loom five operation are necessary, these are

1. Shedding –separation of the warp threads in to two layers, on of which is lifted and the other is lowered.

2. Picking- insertion of the weft thread through the opening shed.

3. Beating-up- pushing the newly inserted weft thread in to the already woven fabric.

4. Warp let-off-delivering the warp threads to the fabric formation zone.

5. Cloth take-up-moving the from the fabric formation zone at constant rate that ensure the required pick spacing, and winding the fabric on to the cloth roller. interlace the warp and the weft thread on any

End product: Woven FabricGranch Berhe, 2014 24

Weaving Looms


• Textile fabrics can be produced directly from webs of fibers b y bonding, fusing or interlocking to make non-woven fabrics

Non-Woven Fabric Manufacturing

End product: Non-woven FabricGranch Berhe, 2014 26


Non-Woven Manufacturing Machine


Knitting is the production of fabric by forming loops with yarn which are intermeshed in a variety of ways to form the fabric.

Knitting Fabric Manufacturing

End product: Knitted FabricGranch Berhe, 2014 29

Knitting Machines


In broad sense, any operation for improving the appearance or usefulness of a fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine is called finishing

There are three stages,• Preparation•Coloration (dyeing and/or printing)

• Final Finishing

1.4. Fabric Finishing


Major Operational Sections of Finishing


Preparation1. Singeing :- Removal of protrude fibers from yarn or fabric to impart smoothness2. Desizing:- Removal of Sizing material added in slashing section to improve penetration of chemicals in subsequent operation3. Scouring/Carbonizing/Degumming: Removal Natural or added impurities to improve absorbency4. Bleaching: Removal of colored pigments to impart whitness5. Mercerization: Treatment with Caustic soda to improve strength, luster and absorbency of cottonGranch Berhe, 2014 33

Process of imparting/inserting color to textile materials using colorants known as dyes

Dyeing


Pretreatment and Dyeing Machine


Process of imparting coloring matter in to selected area using dye or pigment mostly in paste form

Printing


Printing Machines


1. Ease care: to make textile material shrinkage and wrinkle free2. Calendaring/Sanforzing: To remove wrinkle and to impart smoothness3. Repellent/Proof : To make textile materials repellent/proof to water, oil and/or soil4. Fire Retardant/Proof: To make textile material retardant/proof to fire, heat5. Antimicrobial: To give anti fungal and anti bacterial treatment on textile materials

Finishing


Embossing

Calendaring

Finishing Machines


1.5. Garment Manufacturing


Garment Instruments and Machines


Technical Textiles

Part II


Agro – techAgriculture, horticulture and forestry

BUILD – techBuilding and construction

CLOTH – techTechnical components of shoes and clothing

GEO – techGeotextiles, civil engineering

HOME – techComponents of furniture, household textilesand floor coverings

INDU – techFiltration, cleaning and other industrial usage

Clothing Textiles

Home Textiles

Geo Textiles

Industrial Textiles

Agro Textiles

Construction Textiles

What are Technical Textiles?Textile products manufactured primarily for their performance and functional properties rather than aesthetic or decorative characteristics


MEDI – techHygiene and medical

MOBIL – techAutomobiles, shipping, railways and aerospace

OEKO – techEnvironmental protection

PACK – techPackaging

PRO – techPersonal and property protection

SPORT – techSport and leisure

Medical Textiles

Protective Textiles

Sport Textiles

Packaging Textiles

Transportation Textiles

Eco Textile


Clothing Textiles

Technical components of shoes and clothing

e.g. liningsAll the natural, man made and Synthetic Fibers


Home Textiles

Technical components of furniture, household textiles & floorcoveringsAcetates, acrylics, polyester, natural fibers…..


Geo textiles

Geotexiles and civil engineering materials



Industrial textiles

Filtration, conveying, cleaning etcNylon, polyester, polypropylene, glass fibers….


Medical TextilesHygiene and medical productsPolyester, Cotton, polypropylene, silk etc…


The medical application of textile fibres can be categorized into:

– Extracorporeal devices• Artificial kidney, liver, lung, heart pacer

– Non-implantable textile materials• Absorbent pad, bandages, compression bandages,

plasters, absorbent gauges, lint and wadding– Implantable textile materials

• Tendons, ligaments, cartilage, skin, contact lenses, cornea, joints, vascular grafts, heart valves

– Healthcare and hygiene products• Surgical gowns, caps, gloves , masks; surgical

covers drapes, aprons; beddings (blankets, sheets, pillow covers); clothing (uniform); incontinence/baby/adult diapers; cloth wiper, surgical hosiery, sanitary napkins, medical mattress, sterilization wraps, head and shoe covers, panty shield, wadding; wipes


Wound dressingChronic wounds: 6.5 million people - $25

billion

Impaired healing – Inflammation stage is

prolonged

Resistance to

antibiotics

Silver impregnated dressings

Alternative metals, e.g. zinc as well as

non-metal bactericides

Naturally derived compounds?


Extracorporeal devices- artificial kidney, liver, heart pacer and lung


Implantable materials- sutures, vascular grafts, artificial ligaments, cartilages, artificial joints, heart valves etc




Resorb


Protective TextilesPersonal and property protectionNomex, kevlar fibers…


Sport TextilesSport and leisure E.g Yatcht, Hot air balloons…Polyester, nylon, glass fibers…..



Packaging Textiles

Packaging materialsPolyethylene, polypropylene, glass fibers…..


Transportation Textiles

Automobiles, shipping, railways and aerospacePolyester, nylon, carbon fibers…


Agro Textiles

Agriculture, horticulture, forestry and aquaculture textilesPolypropylene, polyester, polyethylene etc……


Construction Textiles Building and

construction textilesKevlar, nomex, carbon fibers……


Eco textile Textiles

Environmental protectionCarbon fibers…..


Smart Textiles

Part III

The future of fibers & fabricsGranch Berhe, 2014 66

Smart textiles can sense, react & adapt to the conditions around them.

For example, they can react to:• Hot or cold temperature• Light• Pressure• Moisture• Time

UsesNovelty clothing

Protective clothingSafety equipmentMedical textilesMilitary usesAnti-allergen

productsBaby products

Some smart materials meet a real need & have been developed for specific

functions. Others are more of a novelty design feature.

1. Introduction


2. Types of smart textiles

• Smart textiles can be divided in to four types based on their functions.

1. Passive smart materials are materials or systems which only sense the environmental conditions or stimuli.

They are just sensors. They show up what happened on them, Such as changing color, shape, thermal and electrical resistivity. e.g. a shirt with in-built thermistors to log body temperature over time.


Cont. …• 2. Active smart materials: that can both sense and respond

to the external conditions or stimuli. • If actuators are integrated in the passive smart

textile, it becomes an active smart textile as it may respond to a particular stimulus,

• e.g. the temperature aware shirt may automatically rolls up the sleeves when body temperature becomes elevated.


Cont. …• 3. Very smart materials: are materials and systems which can

execute triple functions; First, they are sensors which can receive stimuli from the environment; Secondly they are able to give reaction based on the stimuli; Thirdly they can adapt and reshape themselves accordingly to the environmental condition.

• 4. Materials with even higher level of intelligence develop artificial intelligence to the computers.

• These kinds of materials and systems are not fully achieved in the current investigation of human beings.

• This may be achieved from the coordination of those Very smart (intelligent) materials and structures with advanced computer interface. Granch Berhe, 2014 70

New smart textilesPhase changing Materials for thermoregulation:• PCM possesses the ability to change their state with a

certain temperature range.• It is developed under NASA• Textiles containing phase change materials react

immediately with changes in environmental temperatures, and the temperatures in different areas of the body.

• When a rise in temperature occurs, the PCM microcapsules react by absorbing heat and storing this energy in the liquefied phase change materials.

• When the temperature falls again, the microcapsules release this stored heat energy and the phase change materials solidify againGranch Berhe, 2014 71

Cont. …Chromic Materials

• Are those which change their colour reversibly according to external environmental conditions, for this reason they are also called chameleon fibres

• Chromic materials are the general term referring to materials which radiate the colour, erase the colour or just change it because its induction caused by the external stimulus,

• Photochromic: external stimulus is light.

• Thermochromic: external stimulus is heat.

• Electrochromic: external stimulus is electricity.

• Piezorochromic: external stimulus is pressure.

• Solvatechromic: external stimulus is liquid or gas. Granch Berhe, 2014 72

Cont. …Wearable electronics textiles• Electronic textiles are textile materials, fabrics,

yarns and threads that incorporate with conductive fibres.


An interactive fabric incorporates electronics that are activated by a power source. They are still Smart fabrics, they just require a power source.


3. Some applications of smart textiles

Sports and Human Performance

• The sports sector, through seeking to improve athletic performance, personal comfort and protection from the elements

• e.g. breathable waterproof fabrics such as Goretex® and moisture management textiles like Coolmax®.

• It is even possible to maintain constant body temperature using phase-change technology


Wireless, hands-free communication

Fabric area networks (FANs) enable electronic devices to exchange digital information, power, and control signals within the user’s personal space and remote locations. FANs use wireless RF communication links using currents measuring one nanoamp; these currents can transmit data at speed equivalent to a 2400-baud modem


Cont. …Personalized Healthcare• The concept of personalized healthcare empowers the

individual with the management and assessment of their own healthcare needs.

• Wearable devices allow physiological signals to be continuously monitored during normal daily activities. This can overcome the problem of infrequent clinical visits that can only provide a brief window into the physiological status of the patient.

• Smart clothing serves an important role in remote monitoring of chronically ill patients or those undergoing rehabilitation.

• It also promotes the concept of preventative healthcare.


Warning SignalingA combination of sensors and small flexible light emitting displays (FLED) can receive and respond to stimuli from the body, enabling a warning signal to be displayed or sent. The sensors can monitor EKG, heart rate, respiration, temperature, and pulse oximetry readings. If vital signals were below critical values, a FLED would automatically display, for example, a flashing red light, and a wireless communication system could send a distress signal to a remote location.


Cont. …Military/security• In extreme environmental conditions and hazardous

situations there is a need for real time information technology to increase the protection and survivability of the people working in those conditions

• The requirements for such situations are to monitor vital signs and ease injuries while also monitoring environment hazards such as toxic gases.

• Wireless communication to a central unit allows medics to conduct remote triage of casualties to help them respond more rapidly and safely.


Cont. …

Fashion/lifestyle• The development of high-tech advanced textiles for

initial high-value applications such as extreme sports will eventually find its way into street fashion


Biomimetics: Speedo – ‘Fastskin’ developed through the observation of the shark and how it swims fast through water. Garment & fabric technologists worked with Marine biologists to stimulate a sharkskin fabric and suit structure, together with computer scientists, using the latest body scanning technology to create a second skin.

5.3 Types of Intelligent Textiles ( Materials that think)

Involve: textile technologists,marine biologists,computer scientists


Biomimetics: Lotus effect

• most efficient self-cleaning plant= great sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera)

• mimicked in paints andother surface coatings


Functional

Functional Textiles are designed specifically for an end purpose with added attributes. Fabrics are now available to;Help protect exposure to UV radiation for swimmersAnti allergy, absorbent & antibacterial products used in medical applications, Fabrics incorporating moisture management systems – used for speedy evaporation of sweat, Reflective textiles for safety garment ,Insulation & buoyancy fabrics for activities in water.


Light emitting

Luminex is a new fabric (non reflective) that can emit its own light.The Luminex fibres are optical and emit light

in darkened situations. Granch Berhe, 2014 84

Life SavingDuPont is part of an effort by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) to develop materials to equip the U.S. soldier of the future with uniforms and gear that help heal, shield and protect them against chemical and biological warfare Engineers and scientists will work to develop ideas such as a uniform that is nearly invisible and soft clothing that can become a rigid cast when a soldier breaks his or her leg.


Change colour & shapeFibres That Can Change Colour and Shape on Command

Smart fibres can function as conductive "wires" and react to signals from electricity, heat or pressure.

Researchers are experimenting with different fibre profiles -- oval, square, or triangular -- that can be made to contract or expand to loosen and tighten clothing to make the wearer warmer or cooler.

For example, conductive fibres could change colour on command from an electric signal that changes the reflective quality of specially dyed fibre/cloth. Thereby enhance fashion as well as function.


Emitting scents

The dress mimics the body's circulation system, the senses and scent glands. The veins and arteries flow freely as the new interactive fabric emitting a selection of scents depending on your mood.

The Smart Second Skin Dress – emitting scents depending on your mood and requirements. A sleep suit has been developed to emit lavender for insomniacs when they wake to calm the wearer and send them back to sleep.



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Textile Engineering Profession