FABRIC Dictionary

Fabric Dictionary Index Page.Click on a letter or just scroll.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

AbacaAbsorbencyAcetateAcrylicAgnelineAlbert ClothAlginateAlpacaAmazonAngora GoatAngora RabbitAramidArgyleArmureArt LinenAsbestosAstrakhan

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BaizeBaratheaBatikBatisteBayadereBeaverBeaver ClothBedford CordBengalineBias PlaidBirdseye

Blanket ClothBlendBoliviaBombazineBoucleBroadclothBrocadeBrocatelleBuckramBurlapBurn-OutButcher Linen

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CalenderingCalicoCambricCamel HairCamocasCandlewick FabricCanton FlannelCanvasCardCardingCashaCashmereCavalry TwillCelluloseCendalChallisChalysChambrayChamois ClothChamoisetteCharmeuseCharvetCheeseclothChenilleChenille Fabric

CheviotChevronChiffonChina SilkChinchillaChinoChintzChiteCisele VelvetCoirConeyCordoban LeatherCorduroyCottonCotton BrocadeCotton CanvasCoutilCovertCrashCrepeCrepe de ChineCrepe-Back SatinCreponCrettoneCrewelCrinolineCrocking

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DamaskDegummed SilkDenimDimityDirect PrintDobby FabricDobby LoomDoeDoeskinDomett FlannelDonegal

Dotted SwissDouble-face SatinDoubleknitDoupionDouppioniDrillDuchesseDuvetyn(e)Dyeing

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ElastomerEolienneEpongeEskimo ClothEtamine

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FaconneFaconne VelvetFailleFaille TaffetaFeltFibreFibre BaseFibreglassFillFinished GoodsFinishingFlannelFlanneletteFlat CrepeFlaxFleeceFlockFoulardFoxFrise

Fustian

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GabardineGattarGeorgetteGeorgette CrepeGinghamGlazedGlove SilkGranadaGreigeGrenadineGrosgrainGuanacoGuipure Lace

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HabutaiHareHarris TweedHeat Transfer PrintingHempHenequenHenriettaHerringbone TwillHickory ClothHomespunHonanHoney CombHong KongHopsackingHoundstoothHuckaback

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IllusionIntarsiaIxtle

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JackrabbitJacquardJerseyJute

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KapokKarakulKashaKashmirKenafKerseyKnitting

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Lambs woolLambs WoolLameLampasLatexLawnLeatherLinenLisereLlamaLoden ClothLongclothLoomLustre FabricLycraLyons Velvet

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MackinawMacrameMadrasManila HempManufactured FibreMarble ClothMarocainMarquisetteMarseillesMatelasseMeMeltonMelwynMercerisationMessalineMetallic FibresMicro-FibreModacrylicMohairMoireMonks ClothMontagnacMoss CrepeMousseline de SoieMuskratMuslin

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Nacre VelvetNainsookNapNetNinnonNon-Crushable LinenNutriaNylon

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OilclothOlefin FibreOmbreOnduleOpossumOrgandieOrgandyOrganzaOsnabergOttomanOxford

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Paillette SatinPannePanne VelvetPaper TaffetaPBIPeau de CyngePeau de PechePeau de SoiePekinPercalePillingPin CheckPinheadPiquéPlissePlushPocket WeavePoint despritPolished CottonPolyesterPolymerisationPompadour TaffetaPongeePoplin

Protein Base FibresProvencePyrenees

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Qiviut

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RabbitRaccoonRadiumRajahRamieRatineRayRayonRedwood BarkReppRomaineRuche

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SailclothSanglierSateenSatinSatin FaconneSatin-backSatin-back CrepeSatinetteSaxonySeersuckerSelvageSergeSerpentine CrepeShadowy Organdy

ShantungSharkskinShatushSheerShetlandShotShot TaffetaShuttleSilkSimulated Linen FabricsSisalSlipper SatinSlubSlubbedSlubsSouffleSpandexSpinningSpun RayonSuede ClothSuede LeatherSulfarSunnSurah

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TaffetaTapestryTaslan Toile De JouyTerry clothTikingTissue TaffetaTransparent VelvetTricotTricotineTriple SheersTropical WorstedsTufting YarnTulleTussah

TweedTwill

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Union ClothUrenaUtrecht Velvet

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VairVelourVelvetVelvet SatinVelveteenVenetianVichyVicunaViscoseVivyonViyellaVoile

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WaleWarp-print TaffetaWeaselWhipcordWoolWool BroadclothWool FlannelWool JerseyWorstedWorsted Flannel

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Yarns

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ZephyrZibeline

AbacaMore commonly known as Manila Hemp.

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This definition copyright All-About-Fabrics.com 2001-6

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Manila HempAlso known as Abaca.

This vegetable leaf fibre is derived from the Musa textilis plant. It is mainly grown in the Philippines (where it is a chief export product) but is also found, in smaller amounts, in Africa, Malaysia, Indonesia and Costa Rica. The fibre is obtained from the outer layer of the leaf. Processing occurs when it is separated mechanically decorticated into lengths varying from 1 to 3 metres. Mature plants are processed much the same as flax and hemp. The finer fibres, often 5 m (15 ft) long, are used for weaving cloth. The outer, coarser fibres are used in the manufacture of matting and durable cordage; the latter is widely considered the finest rope made. Abaca is very strong with great lustre. It is very resistant to damage from salt water.

Uses: Cordage.

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FibreAny tough substance, natural or man-made, composed of thread-like tissue capable of being made into yarn.

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FlaxThis fibre is taken from the stalk of the Linum usitaatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fibre and is cylindrical in shape. its length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on average is between 15 and 25 inches. its colour is usually off-white or tan and due to its natural wax content, flax has excellent lustre. It is considered to be the strongest of the vegetable fibres and is highly absorbent, allowing moisture to evaporate with speed. It conducts heat well and can be readily boiled. It's washability is great, however, it has poor elasticity and does not easily return to its original shape after creasing.

Uses: Apparel fabric. When processed into fabric it is called linen. It is also used for tablecloths, napkins, doilies, twine, aprons, fishing tackle, and nets.

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LinenCloth woven from flax.

Derivation: Old English lºnen from West Germanic: related to obsolete line ‘flax’

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HempCommon name for an Asian annual herb (Cannabis), and also for its strong, pliable fibres. This species is often called true hemp or Indian hemp. It is cultivated in Eurasia, the United States, and Chile. A hemp plant may be as small as 91 cm (36 in) or as tall as 5 m (15 ft), depending upon the climate and soil type. There are two cultivated strains: the one commonly grown in the north is grown principally for fibre, the one grown mainly in southern regions is grown as a drug plant. Hemp stems are hollow and have a fibrous inner bark. The fibres from this bark are used to make a great variety of textile products, including coarse fabrics, ropes, sailcloth, and packing cloth. Soft fibres, used for making clothing fabrics in Asia, are obtained from hemp harvested at the time of pollination; strong, coarse fibres are obtained from mature plants. The fibres are removed and processed by methods similar to those used in processing flax. Partly decomposed, the stalks are dried, broken, and shaken to separate the woody stalks from the fibres. The fibre is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colours. The hemp fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial fibres may be several inches long, while fibres used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew. Coarse hemp fibres and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins. In Italy, fine hemp fibres are used for interior design and apparel fabrics.

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SailclothFibre: Cotton, linen, nylon.

Weave: Plain, some made with a crosswise rib.

Characteristics: A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary, but most often the count is around 148 x 60. Able to withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow). Sailcloth for clothing is sold frequently and is much lighter weight than used for sails.

Uses: Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for men, women, and children.

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CottonA natural vegetable fibre of great economic importance as a raw material for cloth. Its widespread use is largely due to the ease with which its fibres are spun into yarns. Cotton's strength, absorbency, and capacity to be washed and dyed also make it adaptable to a considerable variety of textile products. It is one of the world's major textile fibres.

It is obtained from bushy plants. The immature flower bud, called a square, blooms and develops into an oval fruit called a boll that splits open at maturity, revealing a mass of long white hairs, called lint, that cover the numerous brown or black seeds. There are four main types of cotton: American Upland, Egyptian, Sea Island and Asiatic. The flowers from which these different types of cotton are obtained vary in colour and texture, thus providing each type of cotton with varying characteristics. Cotton, in general, is very elastic. It can withstand high temperatures, has high washability and is very susceptible to dyes.

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YarnsIn order to weave a fabric, the fibre or blend of fibres must first be made into a yarn. Yarns vary in size and shape, both of which have an effect on the appearance of the fabric.

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BlendThe combination of two or more types of staple fibres and/or colours in one yarn. Blends are sometimes so intimate that it is difficult to distinguish the component fibres in either the yarn or the fabric. A highly sophisticated textile art, blending today is creating new fabric types, performance characteristics, and dyeing and finishing effects.

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DyeingThe colouring of greige (grey) goods or fibres with either natural or synthetic dyes. This may be done in many different ways depending on the type of fabric (or fibre), the type of dye and the desired result Some of the more common methods are:Continuous Dyeing Fabric is continuously dyed. Dye lots may run to 30.000 yards/colour. Jet Dyeing Used for dyeing Polyester. Pressure kettles are used to reach extremely high temperatures and force the dye into the fibre. Milliken Dyeing Developed by Milliken & Company for continuous pattern dyeing. Piece Dyeing Fabric is passed through the dye solution for a specified length of time. Printing A term referring to methods of applying designs to greige goods. Some types of printing are roller printing, screen printing, and handblocked printing. Solution Dyeing A solution of dye is added to the liquid synthetic before spinning it into a yarn. Vat Dyeing An insoluble dye that has been made soluble is put on the fibre and then oxidized to the original insoluble form. Average dye lot 700 yards. Yarn Dyeing Yarn is dyed before it is woven into fabric. Cationic Dyeing A dye technique that allows certain fibres (like nylon, or polyester)to take deep and brilliant colours. When cationic fibre is fixed with conventional fibre, various multicolours and cross-dye effects can be achieved from a single dye bath.

Derivation: Middle English dien

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GreigeFrench for fabrics in unbleached, undyed state before finishing.

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FinishingThe process of dyeing, printing, etc. of greige goods.

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Polyester1) any of a group of condensation polymers used to form synthetic fibres such as Terylene or to make resins. 2) a fabric made from such a polymer.

Characteristics: It is an extremely resilient fibre that is smooth, crisp and particularly springy. Its shape is determined by heat and it is insensitive to moisture. It is lightweight, strong and resistant to creasing, shrinking, stretching, mildew and abrasion. It is readily washable and is not damaged by sunlight or weather and is resistant to moths and mildew.

Uses: Many and varied.

Derivation: Poly- Greek combining form of polys much, many.

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SpinningThis final operation in yarn manufacture consists of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop, tube, etc. Spinning requires great care by all operatives involved. Mule and ring spinning are the two major methods today, and in addition to being spun on these methods, worsted yard is also spun on the cap and flyer flame methods of producing finished spun yarn.

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WorstedWool

(1) Firmly swisted yarn or thread spun from combed long-staple wool, used for weaving, etc.

(2) wool cloth woven from such yarns, having a hard smooth surface and no nap.

Derivation: Named after ME Worsted, parish in Norfolk, Endland.

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WoolThis fibre is made from the hair of various animals such as sheep, llamas, camels and goats. It is very resilient and resistant to wrinkling. It is renewed by moisture and well known for its warmth.

Uses: Clothing, blankets, winter wear.

Derivation: Middle English wole

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Nap1 the raised pile on textiles, esp. velvet. 2 a soft downy surface. 3 Austral. colloq. blankets, bedding, swag.

Derivation: Middle English noppe from Middle Dutch, Middle Low German noppe ‘nap’, noppen ‘trim nap from’

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VelvetFibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and worsted.

Weave: Pile, made with an extra warp yarn.

Characteristics: A closely woven fabric of silk, cotton, etc., with a thick short pile on one side. Mostly made with a plain back but some with a twill. Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or cotton back. Comes in many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet wears fairly well and is inexpensive. The cheaper cloths give little service and look well only a few times before beginning to deteriorate. Better velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, and drapes well. Has to be handled with care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one way. For the maximum amount of depth in the colour, cut with the pile running up. it also wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be cut with very simple lines in the garment, so not to destroy the beauty of the fabric. It has the tendency to add weight to the figure.

Uses: All types of evening wear, at home wear, draperies, upholstering.

Derivation: Middle English via Old French veluotte from velu ‘velvety’, via medieval Latin villutus from Latin villus ‘tuft, down’

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SilkIt is obtained from cocoons of certain species of caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of the finest textiles. It is also very strong and absorbent.Silk is one of the oldest known textile fibres and, according to Chinese tradition, was used as long ago as the 27th century BC. The silkworm moth was originally a native of China, and for about 30 centuries the gathering and weaving of silk was a secret process, known only to the Chinese.

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RayonFibre: Cellulose

Weave:

Characteristics: Any of various textile fibres or fabrics made from viscose. This cellulose fibre is highly absorbent. Its drapability and dyeability are excellent and it is fairly soft. Rayon does have a tendency to shrink but does not melt in high temperatures. It is resistant to moths and is not affected by ordinary household bleaches and chemicals.

Uses: Clothing, draperies, upholstery, carpets, tablecloths, bedspreads, automobile tires, conveyor belts, hose.

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CelluloseThe basic substance for the three cellulosic fibres (acetate, rayon, and triacetate) is cellulose, which comes from purified wood pulp.

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ViscoseViscose fabrics have a silky to matte lustre with an elegant flowing drape. The natural effect of the colours gives them an attractive look. Viscose is supple and has a softness that is comfortable to wear. As they can absorb perspiration quite quickly, making them very skin-friendly, but with poor thermal properties.Cellulose, usually derived from tree trunks, is converted into a highly viscous state and spun into a fibre by forcing it through spinneret holes.

Derivation: Late Latin viscosus (as VISCOUS)

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AbsorbencyThe ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is an important property affecting many other characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellence, and wrinkle recovery.

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Twill· n. a fabric so woven as to have a surface of diagonal parallel ridges. · v.tr. (esp. as twilled adj.) weave (fabric) in this way. VV twilled adj.

Derivation: northern English variant of obsolete twilly from Old English twili (from twi- ‘double’), translating Latin bilix (as BI-, licium ‘thread’)

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Nylon

Characteristics: This manufactured fibre is very strong and is resistant to both abrasion and damage from many chemicals. It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to its original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some dyes, and resistant to moths and other insects, water, perspiration and standard dry-cleaning agents.

Uses: Women’s hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and sweaters, rugs and carpets, tents, sleeping bags, duffle bags, racquet strings, fishing lines, sails, tire cord, machine belting, filter netting, fish nets, laminates, and ropes.

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CanvasFibre: Linen, cotton.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made from plied yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the grey state but some is dyed for different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh.

Uses: Tents, sails, mail bags, sacks, covers, etc. Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.

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AcetateThe ester cellulose ethanoate (cellulose acetate), referred to commercially simply as acetate, is used in fabrics, fibres, and films.

One of the first manufactured fibres. It is soft and has a crisp feel. It has the lustrous appearance of silk and excellent appearance when draped. It is not a strong fibre, as its resistance to abrasion is poor. Resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew and does not absorb moisture readily. Its yarns are pliable and supple and will always spring back to their original shape. It is fast drying and when heated becomes more pliable. Acetone and alcohol dissolve acetate fibres. Special dyes are required if it is to be coloured.

Uses: Clothing, uniforms, lingerie, carpets, bathing suits, draperies, automobile upholstery, fillings for pillows, interlinings.

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AcrylicAcrylic resins, often called acrylics, are made by the polymerisation of acrylates or other monomers containing the acrylic group. Acrylic compounds are thermoplastic (they soften or fuse when heated and reharden upon cooling), are impervious to water, and have low densities. These qualities make them suitable for the manufacture of a variety of objects and substances, including moulded structural materials, adhesives, and textile fibres.

Such fibres are used to weave durable, easily laundered fabrics that resist shrinkage. It is a durable fibre with a soft, woolly feel. It has an uneven surface, making it different from most manufactured fibres. It comes in a variety of colours, and can be dyed easily. It is resistant to sun and chemicals.

Uses: Often used as a replacement for wool.

Derivation: Probably invented by some boffin on his/her day off.

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PolymerisationThe process of forming a Polymer. A polymer is a compound formed by joining two or more molecules to form a more complex chemical with a higher molecular weight.Typical examples are polyethene, Nylon, Rayon, Acrylic and PVC (polyvinyl chloride).

Derivation: Greek Polymeres of many parts

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AgnelineA black woollen fabric with a very long nape. It is coarse and heavy. When stretched the fibres tighten and become water resistant.

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Albert Cloth

Characteristics: It has a double layer of wool and is reversible. Faces and backs may vary in colour and pattern. Provides additional warmth and body.

Uses: Outer wraps.

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AlginateAlginate was first produced from seaweed in 1940. It is a product of a neutralizing reaction between alginic acid and caustic soda. It is non-flammable. When combined with other fibres, it takes on a sheer appearance.

Uses: Garnishing, camouflage and netting.

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SheerFibre: Any fibre.

Weave: Mostly plain but could be various weaves.

Characteristics: Any very light-weight fabric (e.g. chiffon, georgette, Voilé, sheer Crêpe). Usually has an open weave, very thin; diaphanous. They mostly feel cool.

Derivation: Middle English schere, probably via dialect shire ‘pure, clear’ from Old English scºr, from Germanic

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ChiffonFibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: A light diaphanous fabric of silk, nylon, etc Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille taffeta.

Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.

Derivation: French from chiffe ‘rag’

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FailleFibre: Silk, rayon.

Weave: Crosswise rib.

Characteristics: A soft transversely ribbed silk or rayon fabric. Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than grosgrain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the Crêpe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish.

Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats.

Derivation: French

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GrosgrainHeavy, corded, silk or rayon ribbon or fabric. Plain weave with horizontal ribs.

Derivation: French: gros grain large grain.

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TaffetaFibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Usually plain with a fine cross rib.

Characteristics: Lustrous silk or rayon fabric of plain weave. A cloth supposed to have originated in Iran (Persia) ad was called "taftah" (a fine silk fabric) - (in 16th century, became a luxury for women's wear). It is made in plain colours, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk will not wear, as long as other high quality silks, since weighting is given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods will split or crack.

Uses: All kinds of after 5 wear, dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips, ribbons, blouses, umbrella fabric. It is quite a dressy fabric.

Derivation: From Persian taftah silken or linen cloth

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Georgette

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: A thin silk or crêpe dress material. Usually done in silk but can also be found in manufactured fibres. It is characterised by its crispness, body and outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face.

Derivation: Named after Georgette de la Plante (c.. 1900), French dressmaker

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AlpacaTrue alpaca is hair from the Alpaca animal, a member of the Llama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon.

Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights.

Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. It is very rich and silky with considerable lustre and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used, it is inclined to be stiff. It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibres or imitated by other fibres - e.g. orlon. Alpaca is found in white, black, fawn or grey. The fibres are less coarse than those of the llama but are higher in tensile strength.

Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.

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LlamaCommon name for a long-eared South American ruminant that is domesticated from the guanaco. The llama stands 0.9 to 1.3 m (3 to 4.3 ft) high at the shoulder and is usually white, blotched with black and brown; sometimes it is pure white or pure black. The long, coarse wool is used in the weaving of textiles, and the skins are tanned for leather. This fibre has impressive lustre and warmth and is very light weight.

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GuanacoGuanaco, common name for a species of wild South American ruminant (cud-chewing mammal). The closely related alpaca and llama are completely domesticated; the related vicuna is also found in South America. The guanaco lives on mountains and plains in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Peru, and Paraguay. Produces a fleece of the most glorious natural honey beige colour. Very soft.

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VicunaVicuña, ruminant mammal belonging to the camel family. The animal is native to the Andes in South America, and is a close relative of the llama. Vicuñas are small, slender animals with orange-red fur. They generally roam in small herds and have never been successfully domesticated. They are much hunted for their hides and for their wool, which is valued for weaving. The term vicuña is applied to the fabrics manufactured from the wool of the animal, and also to textile fabrics made from the wool of the merino sheep in imitation of natural vicuña. Such fabrics generally resemble serge in weave but are fuller and softer and have a distinct nap. Textile industry uses the fibres to manufacture the softest coat cloth in the world.

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Serge

Weave: Worsted - also unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics. Weave: A very distinct twill (2 up/2 down) which shows on both sides of the fabric.

Characteristics: On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot be removed permanently. It is a good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has a very fine twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits.

Uses: Coats, suits and sportswear.

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BoliviaFibre: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair.

Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern.

Characteristics: Pile face which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights.

Uses: Cloaking and coatings and some suits.

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MohairFibre: From the angora goat. Some has cotton warp and mohair filling (sometimes called brilliantine). Imitation mohair made from wool or a blend.

Weave: Plain or twill or knitted.

Characteristics: Angora goat is one of the oldest animals known to man. It is 2 1/2 times as strong as wool. Goats are raised in South Africa, Western Asia, turkey, and neighbouring countries. Some are in the U.S.A. Fabric is smooth, glossy, and wiry. Has long wavy hair. Also made in a pile fabric of cut and uncut loops similar to frieze with a cotton and wool back and mohair pattern. - Similar to alpaca.

Uses: Linings, pile fabrics, suitings, upholstery fabrics, braids, dress materials, felt hats, and sweaters.

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FeltFibre: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fibre, can be mixed with other fibres, cotton, rayon.

Weave: Not woven but felted.

Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not fray.

Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts.

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FleeceFibre: Wool, specialty hair fibres, cotton.

Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.

Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The interlacings are well covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time.

Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.

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LeatherThe skin of an animal tanned or otherwise dressed for use. Full Top Grain, indicating the very best hides available on the world market today. Only the finest hides, those that do not require sanding or buffing to remove defects or imperfections, can be classified as Full top Grain. These premium hides in their natural, unadulterated state retain the superior characteristics of suppleness and tuftability found only in genuine Full Top Grain leather.

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Amazon

Weave: Satin

Characteristics: It is very soft.

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SatinA fabric of silk or various man-made fibres, with a glossy surface on one side produced by a twill weave with the weft-threads almost hidden.

Characteristics: Originated in China (Zaytoun, China - now Canton - a port from which satins were exported during the Middle Ages). Became known in Europe during the 12th, and 13th Centuries in Italy. Became known in England by the 14th Century. It became a favourite of all court life because of its exquisite qualities and feel. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The lustre is produced by running it between hot cylinders. Made in many colours, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.

Uses: Slips, eveining dresses, coats, capes, and jackets, lining fabrics, millinery, drapes, covers, and pillows, trimmings, etc.

Derivation: From Latin seta Silk

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Angora GoatFibre: The clipped fibre of the living animal is called mohair.

Weave: Various weaves and knitted.

Characteristics: Scoured mohair appears smooth and white. It varies in fineness and is highly resilient, very strong and has high lustre. Its value is determined by its lustre and not its softness.

Uses: Used extensively in industries such as carpet, upholstery, curtain and automobile cloth.

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Angora RabbitFibre: Hair from the angora rabbit. It is indigenous to Asia Minor and Turkey. Often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects.

Weave: Various weaves and knitted.

Characteristics: Long, very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as angora rabbit's hair. This fur fibre is one of the finest.

Uses: Used mostly in knit wear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits to give a softer feel.

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Rabbit

Characteristics: Wild rabbits have brownish or grey colours. Tame ones range in colour from white to black. Uses Coats and trimmings.

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AramidThis strong fibre does not have a melting point and is flame proof. It retains its shape, even at high temperatures and is resistant to stretch.

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ArgyleA "version" of the tartan of the Scottish clan Argyle.Also known as Bias Plaid. Comprising a Diamond-shaped knit design that appears to be inlaid into the fabric. Usually three colours, but two colour combinations are also used.Originally hand knitted, but is now machine-made throughout the world using the intarsia method. Tartan socks featuring the argyle pattern are worn with the kilt, particularly by military regiments.

Derivation: From the district of Argyll in the West Highlands of Scotland.

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Bias PlaidSee Argyle.

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IntarsiaA type of knitting. Usually featuring large diamond checks showing light, dark and halftones in between.The diamond areas are separated from each other by complete loops, and not loops superimposed on ground loops made from other yarns. Mock intarsia knit gives the same patterning motif using the jacquard mechanism. Design is most often seen on sweaters, scarves, socks and stockings.

The word intarsia refers to all kinds of 'inlay' including marquetry, which is a form of decoration for furniture and architectural panels.

Derivation: From the Italian word, intarsiare meaning 'inlay'.

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KnittingProcess of making fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or more yarns.

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JacquardA woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head (this constitutes a jacquard loom) and may vary from simple, self-colored, spot effects to elaborate, multicoloured all-over effects.The loom operates a bit like the roller on a player piano. But instead of notes, it gives instructions to the machine on how to create the design.

Derivation: Named after J. M. Jacquard, French inventor of the loom d. 1834

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LoomA machine or apparatus for weaving yarn into fabric. The warp (lengthwise) threads are secured on the loom through the eyes of heddles and attached to the loom beam at the front of the loom. The filling (crosswise) thread darts between the warp threads as they are alternately lifted and lowered. sometimes carried by a shuttle, sometimes propelled by air pressure, or other methods in shuttless looms.The Plain Weave Consists of one thread over and one thread under. This type is found in sheeting. The Twill Weave Has each warp thread passing over two or more filling threads, with the interlacing advancing one thread on successive warps. This type, with its "diagonal line", is found in denims. The Satin Weave Has few interlacings widely but regularly spaced, resulting in a lustrous "right" side and dull back. This type is found in dress goods. Jacquard Design A woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head (this constitutes a jacquard loom) and may vary from simple, self-coloured, spot effects to elaborate, multicoloured, all over effects.

The Major Motions or Actions of looms are shedding, picking, and beating-up. Minor motions on looms are the take-up, let-off, and pattern. The first three motions are linked together as follows: Shedding Motion The separating of the warp ends into an upper and lower system of threads to permit the shuttle to pass through the space that has been formed. The warp ends are drawn through heddle eyes in the correct manner, and in the turning-over of the crankshaft of the loom, a shed is formed with each turn. Picking Motion The actual passing of the shuttle through the shed of the loom. The shuttle passes over the lowered ends of the shed and under its raised ends. The shed permits the shuttle to pass through it and thereby makes it possible for the shuttle to deposit the pick or filling yarn. Beating-Up The actual beating into place of the loose pick that was placed in the shed of the loom in the picking motion. Beating-up makes each and every deposited yarn a component part of the woven cloth, The reed beats this pick into place with each consecutive turn of the crankshaft.

Derivation: Old English geloma - tool

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ShuttleThe boat-like device that carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin, which sees in the shuttle from a shuttle box on one side of the faceplate of the loom through the shed. and into a shuttle box at the other side of the loom. Filling interlaces with the warp yarns to make weaving possible.

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ArmureFibre: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends.

Weave: Plain, twill, or rib, background often has a small design either jacquard or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect.

Characteristics: Design is often in two colours and raised. The name was derived from original fabric which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armour and used for military equipment during the Crusades.

Uses: Elegant evening gowns, draperies, or upholstery.

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Art LinenFibre: Linen.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or coloured. Has a soft finish.

Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.

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AsbestosA fibrous silicate mineral once used for making incombustable or fireproof articles. Now considered extremely dangerous.

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AstrakhanFibre: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back. Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caracul lambskin form the Astrakhan section of Russia.

Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.

Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm.

Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.

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BaizeAlso known as Bayeta.

A thick, bright green or red cloth that looks like felt. Used to cover snooker tables, as pads under objects to prevent scratching. Also used to make traditional clothing of some South American peoples.

Derivation: Possibly from the town of Baza in Spain, or the french word baies a red/brown colour.

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BaratheaFibre: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.

Weave: An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.

Characteristics: Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.

Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.

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BatikA method, originating in Java, of resist dyeing which employs wax as the resist. The pattern is covered with wax and the fabric is then dyed, producing a white design on a dyed ground. The waxed patterns will not take the dye, and the wax is removed after dyeing. The process is repeated to obtain multicoloured designs. The effect is sometimes imitated in machine prints.

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BatisteFibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Named after Jean Batiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerised finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.

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NainsookFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Produced in the finishing processes from the same grey goods as used for batiste, cambric, lawn. Fine and lightweight. Soft and has a slight lustre in the better qualities (mercerisation). Slightly heavier than batiste. Like lawn but not as crisp. Soft, lacks body. Usually found in white but also comes in pastel colours and some printed.

Uses: tucked or embroidered, blouses, night wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.

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CambricFibre: Cotton, also linen.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached or piece dyed. Highly mercerised, lint free. Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss. Lower qualities have a smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and fewer slubs. Launders very well. Has good body, sews and finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France of linen and used for Church embroidery and table linens.

Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.

Derivation: Cambrai, a city in north France.

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SlubsSee Slub.

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Slub1) verb To draw out and twist slightly after carding or silvering, as wool or cotton.2) noun The partially twisted wool or the like produced by slubbing.3) noun Yarn made with bunches of untwisted fibres at intervals.

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CardingThe process of preparing fibres, such as wool, cotton, etc., for spinning.

Derivation: Latin carduus thistle.

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LawnFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: A fine linen or cotton fabric used for clothes. Word derived from Laon, a city in France, where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light weight, sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than Voilé but not as crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns with a soft feel and slight lustre it is called nainsook.

Uses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, lingerie, collars, cuffs, infant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs.

Derivation: Middle English, probably from Laon, a city in France important for linen manufacture

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OrgandyFibre: Cotton.

Weave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs.

Characteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.

Uses: Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial flowers, dolls clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons.

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PlisseFibre: Cotton, rayon, and others.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Could be made from any fine material, e.g. organdy, lawn, etc. Treated with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect. Similar to seersucker in appearance. This crinkle may or may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem, needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry.

Uses: Sleepwear, housecoats, dresses, blouses for women and children, curtains, bedspreads, and bassinets. Often it is called wrinkle Crêpe and may be made with a wax/shrink process (the waxed parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples).

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SeersuckerFibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Plain, slack tension weave.

Characteristics: A fabric usually striped cotton with alternate stripes crinkled in the weaving. Crêpe-stripe effect. Coloured stripes are often used. Dull surface. Comes in medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This is permanent. Some may be produced by pressing or chemicals, which is not likely to be permanent - called plisse. Durable, gives good service and wear. May be laundered without ironing. Can be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some comes in a check effect.

Uses: Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of sportswear, dresses, blouses, children's wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers.

Derivation: Hind. Pers, alteration of shir o shakkar Lit Milk and Sugar.

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BayadereFibre: Silk.

Weave: Crosswise rib (plain or twill weave).

Characteristics: Has brightly coloured stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The colour effects are usually startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jewelled trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets.

Uses: Blouses, dresses, after 5 wear.

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Beaver

Characteristics: Mostly found in Europe and America. Soft, silky, shiny, lending itself to textile use.

Uses: Fur coats, trimming fur and fabric garments.

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Beaver ClothFibre: Wool. Also cotton and napped on both sides - double faced.

Weave: Twill and very heavily napped, and furled.

Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine.

Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.

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KerseyFibre: Wool - poor quality, can also be made of re-used or remanufactured wool.

Weave: Double cloth.

Characteristics: Medium to heavy weight, similar to melton and beaver. Well fulled in the finishing with a rather lustrous nap caused by the use of lustrous crossbred wools. Nap often has direction. Gives good wear and is dressy looking. Blues, browns and blacks are the most popular colours. Originated in Kersey, England in 11th century. Very similar to beaver but it is fulled more, has a shorter nap and a much higher lustre.

Uses: Men's overcoating, uniforms, women's coats, and skirts.

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MeltonFibre: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics.

Weave: Twill or satin weave.

Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely sheared. Coarse meltons are similar to makinaws but made of finer yarns and finished with a smoother, more lustrous surface - used for "under collar cloth" in lighter weights. Very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. if made in tan or buff colour in a coarse quality, it is called "Box cloth". It is classed with kersey, beaver, and broadcloth. Originated in Melton, Mowbray, England, which is a fox hunting report in England. It was first made as a hunting cloth. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat.

Uses: Mostly used for men in overcoating, uniform cloth of all kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as police and firemen), pea jackets, regal livery. Used for heavy outer sports garments and coats for women.

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BroadclothFibre: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth.

Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave.

Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerised. Wears very well. If not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island.

Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colours, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.

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PoplinFibre: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibres.

Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp as weft per inch.

Characteristics: A plain-woven fabric usu. of cotton, with a corded surface. Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerised and has quite a high lustre. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain.

Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, dresses.

Derivation: obsolete French papeline, perhaps from Italian papalina (fem.)

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Fox

Characteristics: Colour varies from black to red, silver, silver-grey and white.

Uses: Scarves, muffs, jackets, coats, trimmings, also to provide softness in wool blends for textile industry.

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Bedford CordFibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.

Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasised by stuffing.

Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Has various qualities and weights.

Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.

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BengalineFibre: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton.

Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced.

Characteristics: A corded fabric resembling poplin but with heavier cords; it may be silk or rayon with worsted cords First made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton drilling in the ribs which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The cloth is usually 40" wide.

Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored look, mourning cloth, draperies. Cotele - A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is given a hard twist.

Derivation: French

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BirdseyeFibre: In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton. Worsted.

Weave: Usually dobby

Characteristics: Smooth, clear finish. Has small diamond-shaped figures with a dot in the centre of each. Pattern suggests the eye of a bird. Very soft, light weight, and absorbent. woven with a loosely twisted filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because the absorption properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign matter. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is used for that purpose as well as very good towelling. Also "novelty" Birdseye effects used as summer dress fabrics.

Uses: Fine quality suiting for men and women.

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Blanket ClothFibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics.

Weave: Plain or twill.

Characteristics: Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honour of Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm.

Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.

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BombazineFibre: Usually has silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton.


Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum" which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk.

Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade.

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BoucleBouclé:Fibre: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibres.

Weave: Any weave, knit.

Characteristics: Yarn with loops, which produces a woven or knitted fabric with rough appearance. A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.

Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.

Derivation: From the French for "buckled" or "ringed".

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BrocadeFibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, and all others.

Weave: Jacquard and dobby.

Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with coloured or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure.

Uses: All types of evening wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.

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DamaskFibre: Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds.

Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom.

Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality. Launders well and holds a high lustre - particularly in linen. - Price range varies a great deal. There are two types of damask table cloths: 1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count is usually around 200. 2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. This gives a much greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from 165 to 400.- The quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use.

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BrocatelleFibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics.

Weave: Jacquard - double or backed cloth.

Characteristics: Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground. It is recognised by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the 13th and 14th Century fabrics, but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect.

Uses: Draperies, furniture, coverings and general decorating purposes as well as all kinds of after 5 wear.

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BuckramFibre: Cotton, some in linen, synthetics.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Cheap, low-textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or book binding. Softens with heat. Can be shaped while warm.

Uses: Used for interlinings and all kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped). Used to give stiffness to leather garments not as stiff and often coloured is called "tarlatan".

Derivation: From Bukhara a city in west Asia from whence the cloth was exported.

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Crinoline

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: It is a very loosely woven fibre with high rigidity. It is smooth, stiff, and has excellent strength. It comes in a variety of shades from white to black.

Uses: Stiffening, making interlining for hat shapes.

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MuslinA smooth delicately woven cotton fabric, used for dresses and curtains. In the USA coarser cotton fabrics used for shirts and sheeting are also called muslins.

Derivation: French Mousseline, from Mussolo, Mosul, a city in Iraq (Mesopotamia).

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BurlapBurlap (or Jute) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or grey colour, with a silky lustre. It consists of bundles of fibre held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in colour. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to micro-organisms and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric.

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JuteJute (or Burlap) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or grey colour, with a silky lustre. It consists of bundles of fibre held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in colour. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to micro-organisms and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric.

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Burn-OutA process whereby a chemical (often sulphuric acid, mixed into a print paste) is printed on the fabric, instead of colour. The chemical eats away the fibre and creates a hole in the fabric in the printed design. Can be used to simulate eyelet effects the fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch. Burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibres, in which the ground fabric is of one fibre like polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulose fibre like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leaves the ground fabric untouched.

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Butcher LinenIt was originally made with linen but is now created with cotton or manufactured fibres. It launders well, sheds dirt, and is exceptionally durable.

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CalenderingA process for finishing fabrics in which effects such as high lustre, glazing, embossing, and moiré are produced.

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CalicoFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain - usually a low count.

Characteristics: Originated in Calicut, India, and is one of the oldest cottons. Rather coarse and light in weight, generally bleached or white. N.B. U.S. definition is very different … A printed cotton cloth superior to percale. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is not always fast in colour. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as "calico print".

Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts. Calicoes were first imported into Europe from India during the Renaissance and have since been manufactured in both Europe and the United States. Calico was especially popular in America during the 19th century.

Derivation: Named after Culicut a city on the coast of Malabar, India.

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PercaleFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and washes very well. Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be printed. Percale sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns and has a count of 200 - carded percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The thread count ranges usually from 180-100. First made by Wamsutta Mills.

Uses: Dresses, women's and children's, sportswear, aprons, and sheets.

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Camel HairFibre: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool.

Weave: Twill or plain.

Characteristics: Bactrian Species of the Chinese and Mongolian deserts. Under hair is best. It is light weight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black colour. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if blended.

Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some very expensive oriental rugs. It is also used in (fine) overcoating, topcoating, hosiery and transmission belts which will withstand dampness and moisture.

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CamocasWas popular in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was a very beautiful fabric which was often stripped with gold or silver. It had a satin base and was diapered like fine linen.

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Candlewick FabricFibre: Cotton - also wool.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: An unbleached muslin bed sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn appearance of true chenille yarn. May be uncut also. (True chenille is a cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar).

Uses: Bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beach wear.

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Chenille1 a tufty velvety cord or yarn, used in trimming furniture etc. 2 fabric made from this.

Derivation: French, = hairy caterpillar, from Latin canicula, diminutive of canis ‘dog’

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Canton FlannelFibre: Cotton

Weave: Four harness warp-faced twill weave. Characteristics The filling yarn is a very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produced a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size. The face is a twill. Heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was first made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed.

Uses: Interlinings, sleeping garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.

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CardAn implement used in disentangling and combing out fibres of wool, flax etc., preparatory to spinning.

Derivation: Latin carduus thistle.

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Casha

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: Originally made of Vicuna. Today the Vicuna is considered an endangered species so Kasha is made from either a blend of cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.

Uses: Clothing.

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Kasha

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: Originally made of Vicuna. Today the Vicuna is considered an endangered species so Kasha is made from either a blend of cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.

Uses: Clothing.

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CashmereFibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan and Outer Mongolia. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.

Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.

Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. Natural fibre is white, black, brown or grey but can be died a variety of shades. Comes in different weights.

Uses: The textile industry is only interested in the soft fibres. Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses. Often combed and sold in tops and noils.

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KashmirFibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan and Outer Mongolia. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.

Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.

Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. Natural fibre is white, black, brown or grey but can be died a variety of shades. Comes in different weights.

Uses: The textile industry is only interested in the soft fibres. Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses. Often combed and sold in tops and noils.

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Cavalry TwillFibre: Woollen or worsted.

Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill.

Characteristics: Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S. elastique but elastique is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave). Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal.

Uses: Riding habits, ski wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.

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Wale1) A ridge or raised line formed in the weave of cloth.2) The texture of a fabric; the kind of weave.

Derivation: Old English walu weal, ridge.

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TricotineFibre: Worsted, wool, rayon, blends with synthetics.

Weave: 63 twill, left to right (double).

Characteristics: Has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily. Medium in weight. Has exceptional wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry twill, but finer. In the same family as whipcords, coverts, and gabardines.

Uses: Men's and women's suits and coats. It is also used for ski slacks in a stretch fabric.

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CendalFibre: silk, made in various qualities

Weave: usually plain with a fine cross rib.

Characteristics: Material resembling taffeta. Widely used in the Middle Ages, but rarely found except for as lining by the 17th century.

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ChallisFibre: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fibre, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.

Uses: Women's and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.

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ChalysFibre: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fibre, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.

Uses: Women's and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.

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ChambrayFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground. A fine variety of gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colours.

Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and coloured warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft colouring. Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight lustre. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles easily. Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets.

Uses: Children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear. A fine variety of gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colours.

Derivation: From Cambric

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GinghamFibre: Cotton, man-made, and synthetics.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: Yarn-dyed plain weave cotton fabric, usually striped or checked. Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colours, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless pre-shrunk. Has a soft, dull lustre surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count.

Uses: Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pyjamas.

Derivation: From Malay ginggang Lit. striped.

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ZephyrThe quality of the textile is airy and can be found today in wool, cotton and manufactured fibres.

Derivation: Its name comes from the ancient God of the Winds Zephrus

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Chamois ClothFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain Characteristics Fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate chamois leather. It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must be designated as "cotton chamoise-colour cloth".

Uses: Dusters, interlining, storage bags for articles to prevent scratching.

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FlanneletteFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain and twill.

Characteristics: A napped cotton fabric imitating flannel. A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in coloured stripes.

Uses: Infants and children's wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.

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FlannelFibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon. 1 a a kind of woven woollen fabric, usu. without a nap. b (in pl.) flannel garments, esp. trousers. 2 Brit. a small usu. towelling cloth, used for washing oneself.

Derivation: perhaps from Welsh gwlanen, from gwl³n ‘wool’

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ChamoisetteFibre: Cotton, also rayon and nylon.

Weave: Knitted, double knit construction.

Characteristics: A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Wears well. Nylon chamoisette is more often called "glove silk".

Uses: Gloves.

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CharmeuseFibre:

Weave: Satin

Characteristics: Originated as a French lightweight silk that was recognised for its supreme lustre and drapability. Today it is made out of rayon, cotton and manufactured fibres and has a dull back. It is found in a variety of solids and prints.

Uses: Pyjamas, dresses, and draping gowns.

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CharvetFibre:

Weave: Herringbone

Characteristics:

Uses: It is a soft, silky fibre with high lustre and a warp face. It originated as a silk fibre but is now made of manufactured fibres.

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CheeseclothFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese. Loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco cloth. When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting.

Uses: In the grey cloth, it is used for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping cloths. Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes and basket tops.

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Chenille FabricFibre: Cotton and any of the main textile fibres.

Weave: Mostly plain weave. Characteristics Warp yarn of any major textile fibre. Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The word is French for caterpillar and fabric looks hairy. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without the use of true Chenille filling.

Uses: Millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.

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CheviotFibre: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.

Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain).

Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crease and sags with wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a tweed.

Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.

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HomespunFibre: Cotton or wool

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an un dyed woollen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.

Uses: Coats, suits, separates and sportswear.

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TweedFibre: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics.

Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or plain.

Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland. Sometimes known as "tweel". Sister-cloth of homespun cheviot and Shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use. Originally only made from different coloured stock-dyed fibres, producing various colour effects. There are a wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds. May also be plaid, checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well.

Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children. Lighter weight, used for dresses.

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ShetlandFibre: Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. Sheep have a coarse outer coat and a very fine undercoat which gives added warmth. The best is the undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring. Other wools sometimes called Shetland if they have a similar appearance.

Weave: Twill, plain, or knitted.

Characteristics: Has a very soft hand and a shaggy finish of protruding fibres. - a pulled wool; the soft undergrowth of the Shetland sheep. Very lightweight and warm. Much is made by hand and comes in distinctive soft colouring. Often the natural colours ranging from off-white, various greys to almost black and brown are used and not dyed. Real Shetland wools are expensive, high quality products. - In the same family group as homespun, tweed and cheviot.

Uses: Coats, suits, and sportswear for both men and women. Fine Shetlands are made into fine shawls, underwear crochet, work and hosiery.

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ChevronBroken twill or herringbone weave giving a chevron effect, creating a design of wide Vs across the width of the fabric. Also known as Herringbone.

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China SilkFibre: Silk.

Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric.

Uses: Mostly for linings and underlinings, and could be used for blouses.

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ChinchillaFibre: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics.

Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.

Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cosy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.

Uses: In cotton, used for baby's blankets and bunting bags.

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SateenFibre: Cotton, some also made in rayon.

Weave: Sateen, 5-harness, filling-face weave.

Characteristics: Cotton fabric woven like satin with a glossy surface. Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a filling direction. Carded or combed yarns are used. Better qualities are mercerised to give a higher sheen. Some are only calendered to produce the sheen but this disappears with sashing and is not considered genuine sateen. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Difficult to make good bound buttonholes on it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams.

Uses: Dresses, sportswear, louses, robes, pyjamas, linings for draperies, bedspreads, slip covers.

Derivation: satin, on the pattern of velveteen

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ChinoFibre: Cotton

Weave: Twill (left hand)

Characteristics: Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerised and sanforised. Washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.

Uses: Army uniforms, summer suits and dresses, sportswear.

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ChintzFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colours. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and withstand dry cleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric".

Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses, sportswear.

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ChiteFibre: linen

Characteristics: Originally from Chitta (India), where the trend of painted linens was started in the 17th and 18th centuries.

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Cisele VelvetA velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.

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CoirFibre:

Weave:

Characteristics: This seed fibre is obtained from the husk of the coconut.

Uses: Brush-making, door mats, fish nets, cordage.

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Coney

Characteristics: Wild rabbits have brownish or grey colours. Tame ones range in colour from white to black. Uses Coats and trimmings.

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Cordoban Leather

Characteristics: Goat skin, simply-tanned. The art of preparing this leather came from Cordoba where the craftsmen who were allowed to use it for shoes in the Middle ages were called cordwainers.

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CorduroyFibre: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibres.

Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back.

Characteristics: Made with an extra filling yarn. In the velvet family of fabrics. Has narrow medium and wide wales, also thick and thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales have different widths and depths. Has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is washable and wears very well. Has a soft lustre.

Uses: Children's clothes of all kinds, dresses, jackets, skirts, suits, slacks, sportswear, men's trousers, jackets, bedspreads, draperies, and upholstery.

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Cotton BrocadeFibre: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low relief.

Weave: Jacquard and dobby

Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with coloured or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure.

Uses: All types of evening wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.

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Cotton CanvasFibre: Cotton. Originally made in linen.

Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib.

Characteristics: Also called duck. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas sails from Britain bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy. it is the most durable fabric made. There are many kinds of duck but the heavier weighs are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed, printed or painted. Washable, many are water-proof and wind proof. Made in various weights.

Uses: Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also for awnings, sails, slipcovers, draperies, sportswear, tents, and many industrial uses.

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CoutilCoutil (or Coutille) is a tightly woven twill cloth with a herringbone pattern. It looks sleek with a smooth finish. It has been created specifically for making corsets. It is woven tightly to inhibit penetration of bones/stays and resist to stretching. Coutil can be made in plain, satin or brocade and generally coloured black, white or flesh. Coutil can be soft, stiff or medium and this characteristic is determined by the starch finishing. This dense, strong material is also used in the manufacture of medical corsets, i.e. Lumbo-Sacral and Thoraco-Lumbo-Sacral Orthoses.

Derivation: French "Drill"

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CovertFibre: Woollen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: Made with two shades of colour e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) and filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Light in weight.

Uses: For overcoating for both men and women. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.

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CrashFibre: Linen.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is strong, irregular in diameter but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.

Uses: Towelling, suitings, dresses, coats.

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CrepeCrêpe:Fibre: Woollen, worsted cotton, silk, man-made synthetics.

Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves.

Characteristics: A fine often gauzelike fabric with a wrinkled surface. Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harsh dry feel. Woollen Crêpes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect.

Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.

Derivation: French via Old French crespe ‘curled’ from Latin crispus

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Crepe de ChineSilk warp and Crêpe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy Crêpe de chine is called "Canton Crêpe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.

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Crepe-Back SatinSatin weave on the face and a Crêpe effect on the back obtained with twisted Crêpe yarns in the filling - 2 or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is a soft fabric which is reversible. It is usually piece dyed. Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by using both sides, in different parts. e.g. the Crêpe side for the body and trim or binding with the satin part up.

Uses: Dresses, blouses, linings, after 5 wear.

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CreponCrêpe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool Crêpe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average Crêpe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise direction. Mostly used for prints.

Uses: Dresses and ensembles.

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CrettoneFibre: Cotton, linen, rayon.


Characteristics: Finished in widths from 30 to 50 inches. Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which are spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright colours and patterns. The fabric has no lustre (when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp printed and if they are, they are usually completely reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often completely cover the surface.

Uses: Bedspreads, chairs, draperies, pillows, slipcovers, coverings of all kinds, beach wear, sportswear.

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GlazedCotton fabrics such as chintz or tarlatan treated with starch, glue, paraffin, or shellac and run through a hot friction roller to give a high polish. These types are not durable in washing. Newer, more durable methods use synthetic resins that withstand laundering.

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CrewelChain stitch embroidery made with a fine, loosely twisted, two-ply worsted yarn on a plain weave fabric. Done by hand, for the most part, in the Kashmir Province of India and in England.

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CrockingRubbing off of colour from woven or printed fabrics.

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Degummed SilkBy boiling the silk in hot water, the gum (sericin) is removed from the yarn/fabric. By doing this, the lustre of the silk is enhanced. It is very lightweight.

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DenimFibre: Cotton

Weave: Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1.

Characteristics: Originally had dark blue, brown or dark grey warp with a white or grey filling giving a mottled look and used only for work clothes. now woven in bright and pastel colours with stripes as well as plain. Long wearing, it resists snags and tears. Comes in heavy and lighter weights.

Uses: Work clothes, overalls, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear, of all kinds, dresses and has even been used for evening wear.

Derivation: From serge de Nim ‘serge of Nîmes’, a city in S. France

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DimityFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect.

Characteristics: A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple grouping. Made of combed yarn and is 1m wide. Has a crisp texture which remains fairly well after washing. Resembles lawn in the white state. It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders well. Creases unless crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design. It is mercerised and has a soft lustre.

Uses: Children's dresses, women's dresses, and blouses, infant's wear, collar and cuff sets, bassinets, bedspreads, curtains, underwear. Has a very young look.

Derivation: Uncertain, possibly from the greek word dismitos meaning double thread, or after the city of Damieta in northern Egypt.

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Direct PrintPattern and ground colour printed on fabric in the colours desired, as opposed to extract printing done on a dyed cloth. Cretonne is an example of a direct print

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Dobby FabricWith geometric figures woven in a set pattern. Similar to, but more limited, more quickly woven, and cheaper than jacquards, which require elaborate procedures to form patterns.

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Dobby LoomA type of loom on which small, geometric figures can be woven in as a regular pattern. Originally this type of loom needed a dobby boy who sat on the top of the loom and drew up warp threads to term a pattern. Now the weaving is done entirely by machine. This loom differs from a plain loom in that it may have up to thirty-two harnesses and a pattern chain and it’s expensive weaving.

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DoeA deer. A female deer. See also Ray and Me.

Derivation: The Sound of Music

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RayA drop of golden sun. See also Me and Doe.


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MeA name I call myself. See also Ray and Doe.


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DoeskinFibre: Wool and also rayon.

Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave. Rayon: Twill weave and napped on one side, or a small satin-weave.

Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight.

Uses: Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.

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Domett FlannelFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain and twill

Characteristics: Also spelled domet. Generally made in white. Has a longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or light weight are used to obtain the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also.

Uses: Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.

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DonegalFibre: Wool - also in rayons and cottons.

Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill.

Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough and ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England.

Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a tailored, sporty look.

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Dotted SwissFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot.

Characteristics: Dots could be a single colour or multicoloured. Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a Voilé or a lawn.

Uses: Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains, bedspreads. It is a young looking fabric.

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Double-face SatinYarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.

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DoubleknitFibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics

Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type

Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilised as the right side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilised for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

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DoupionSilk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places. Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.

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ShantungFibre: Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colours and also printed.

Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats.

Derivation: Shantung, Chinese province, where it was originally made

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TussahFibre: Silk.

Weave: Usually plain but also in twill.

Characteristics: Made from wild or uncultivated silkworms. It is coarse, strong, and uneven. Dull lustre and rather stiff. Has a rough texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in colour and it is difficult to bleach. It usually doesn't take an even dye colour. Wears well and becomes more rough looking with wear. It wrinkles a little, but not as much as some. Various weights. Appears in filament and staple form.

Uses: In lighter weights, dresses. In heavier weights, coats and suits and ensembles.

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PongeeFibre: Silk, cotton, rayon.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: Originally from China and originally woven on hand looms in the home. Light or medium weight. Tan or ecru in colour. Woven "in the gum". Some is dyed, but colour is not quite uniform. Some printed. warp is finer and more even than filling. Nubs or irregular cross ribs produced by uneven yarns. It is woven from wild tussah silk and it is a "raw silk".

Uses: Dresses, ensembles, blouses, summer suits, in a medium weight. It used to be a great deal for drapery linings. Pongee cotton is made of combed yarns and given a variety of finishes.

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DouppioniSilk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places. Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.

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DrillFibre: Cotton or Linen.

Weave: Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1.

Characteristics: a coarse twilled cotton or linen fabric. Closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the grey but can be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki colour it is known by that name.

Uses: Uniforms, work clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses.

Derivation: earlier drilling via German Drillich from Latin trilix -licis, from tri- ‘three’ + licium ‘thread’

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Duchesse

Weave: Satin.

Characteristics: This form of satin has a wonderful lustre and a smooth feel. Its thread count is very high. An 8-12 shaft satin. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp with more ends/inch than picks. The material is strong, has a high lustre, and texture, and it is firm. Usually 91.5cm (36") wide. Characterised by grainy twill on back.

Uses: Women's wear.

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Duvetyn(e)Fibre: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.

Weave: Satin, 7 or 8 shaft.

Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance resembling a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".

Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the millinery trade.

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PlushVelvet or velveteen where the pile is 1/8" thick or more. e.g. Cotton velour, hat velour, plush "fake furs".

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VelveteenFibre: Cotton, sometimes rayon.

Weave: Filling pile, very short.

Characteristics: Woven with a extra filling yarn with either a plain or a twill back (twill back is the best). Warp yarns 80/inch - weft ranges from 175 to 600 depending on the desired density of the pile. Mercerised with a durable finish. Strong and takes hard wear. Poor quality rubs off. Some of it can be laundered. It is warm. Comes in all colours, gradually piece dyed or may be printed. Has to be cut all one way. Press carefully, preferably on a velvet board, or tumble dry after laundering (no pressing needed).

Uses: Children's wear, dresses, coats, draperies, lounge wear, separates.

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VelourFibre: Cotton, wool, or spun rayon.

Weave: Thick, plush pile, with a plain or satin ground, or sometimes knitted.

Characteristics: The pile is characterised by uneven lengths (usually two) which gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas on the surface. A rather pebbled effect. This type of velour was invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844. "Velours" is the French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is simply cotton velvet.

Uses: Hats, dressing gowns, dresses, waist-coats, upholstery. Now most commonly sold as knit velour.

Derivation: French velours ‘velvet’ via Old French velour, velous from Latin villosus ‘hairy’, from villus: see VELVET

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Elastomer

Characteristics: It is a synthetic rubber that can be stretched to at least three times its original length. Once the exerted pull force is released, this fibre returns to its original length.

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Eolienne

Characteristics: its name comes from the term Eolus, which is Greek for God of Winds. This airy fibre has a low thread count and is very delicate. It is lightweight and is very lustrous.

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EpongeFibre: Wool, also rayon and silk.

Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse.

Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and sponge-like in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle".

Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits.

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RatineFibre:

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Originated in Italy. Ratine is a French word that means rough. This fibre has an uneven, pebbled surface. It comes in solid colours and prints and is executed in silk, cotton or wool.

Uses:

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Eskimo Cloth

Weave: Satin or Twill

Characteristics: It is an over-coating with a thick nap. It is usually dyed so as to create wide stripes.

Uses: Over-coating.

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Etamine

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: It was originally made of wool, cotton or linen and used for sifting. It is now a worsted fabric with a very short nap and light in weight.

Uses: Clothing.

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FaconneFibre: Silk or rayon.

Weave: Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish.

Characteristics: Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and could be slightly Crêped. Background is much more sheer than the designs, therefore the designs seem to stand out. Very effective when worn over a different colour. Drapes, handle, and wears well.

Uses: Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.

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Faconne VelvetPatterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.

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Faille TaffetaMade with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.

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Fibre BaseMost man-made fibres are formed by forcing a syrupy substance (about the consistency of honey) through the tiny holes of a device called a spinneret

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FibreglassFibres and yarns produced from glass and woven into flexible fabrics. Noted for its fireproof qualities.

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FillThe threads running widthwise across a piece of fabric.

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Finished GoodsFabric that has been processed by dyeing, printing, applying of special resins and finishes, and is ready for market.

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Flat CrepeAlso called French Crêpe or Lingerie Crêpe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the Crêpes with only a very slight pebbled or Crêpe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white, coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well.

Uses: Accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pyjamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings.

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Flock1 a lock or tuft of wool, cotton, etc. 2 a (also in pl.; often attrib.) material for quilting and stuffing made of wool refuse or torn-up cloth (a flock pillow). b powdered wool or cloth.

Derivation: Middle English via Old French floc from Latin floccus

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FoulardFibre: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted.

Weave: Twill, 2 up 2 down.

Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported from India.

Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the handkerchief trade.

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SurahFibre: Silk, rayon, and synthetics.

Weave: Twill (2 up and 2 down).

Characteristics: Soft and flexible. Lightweight and lustrous. Has a decided twill on the fabric. Wrinkles fairly easily. Underlining helps to prevent this, as well as to prevent slipping at the seams. Some have a tendency to water spot. Very similar to "foulard", but heavier.

Uses: Dresses, suits, ensembles, dresses and coats, cravats, ties, scarves, blouses, jacket and coat linings.

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FriseFibre: Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton.

Weave: Pile (looped).

Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern.

Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transportation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes. Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woollen overcoating fabric which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for overcoating material for soldiers. Much adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable and is called "cotha more".

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FustianFibre: cotton or cotton with linen or flax.

Weave: cross woven when a mix.

Characteristics: Was used for undergarments and linings. Originally made in Fustat near Cairo, hence its name.

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GabardineFibre: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.

Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees).

Characteristics: A smooth durable twill-woven cloth esp. of worsted, spun rayon or cotton. Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly.

Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.

Derivation: Old French gauvardine, perhaps from Middle High German wallevart ‘pilgrimage’

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GattarFibre:

Weave: Satin

Characteristics: It is made with a cotton filling and a silk warp. It is only found in solid colours and is known for its elegant lustre and excellent drapability.

Uses: Elegant evening wraps.

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Georgette CrepeLightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body. gives excellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions. Georgette has a harder, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than Crêpe de chine.

Uses: After 5 wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc. Same uses as Crêpe de chine.

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Glove SilkFibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Knit - two bar doubleknit tricot.

Characteristics: Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex.

Uses: Gloves and underwear. Similar to chamoisette (cotton).

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TricotFibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Knit, warp knitted. Vertical wales on surface and more or less crosswise ribs on the back.

Characteristics: Has a thin texture, made from very fine or single yarns. Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very run-resistant).

Uses: Underwear, sportswear, bathing suits, gloves.

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GranadaFibre:

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: Its name is derived from the Latin word Granum, which refers to the grainy quality of the textile. This granular quality is achieved by a broken twill weave. It is made of a cotton warp and alpaca or mohair filling. This fibre is exceptionally fine.

Uses:

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GrenadineFibre:

Weave: Leno

Characteristics: This fine fibre originated in Italy. It can be made in various fibres such as cotton, wool, silk or manufactured fibres. It is well know for its stiffness.

Uses: Women's clothing.

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Guipure LaceA heavy stiff open lace. Design stands in relief. There is no background or net, the patterned areas are joined by threads known as bridges.

Derivation: From old French word guiper meaning to cover a cord with silk or wool.

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NetFibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, particularly nylon.

Weave: Knotted, made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves.

Characteristics: A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light.

Uses: It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.

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HabutaiFibre: Silk.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known "momme" (1 momme = 3.75 g). Made from waste silk that can be twisted. It is piece dyed or printed and sized. Has many defects in the cloth which has a "shot-about" appearance but this does not effect the cloth. Comes from Japan - originally woven in the gum on Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung but heavier than silk.

Uses: Dresses, coats, shirting, lamp shades, lingerie, curtains.

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HareRabbits and Hares, common name for certain small mammals of the Leporidae family. Although the names "rabbit" and "hare" are sometimes used interchangeably, in zoological terms the species called rabbits are characterized by the helplessness of their offspring (which are born naked and blind) and by their gregarious habit of living in colonies in underground burrows. Furthermore, a typical hare is larger than a rabbit, and has longer ears with characteristic black markings. Hair texture is woolly.

Uses: Felting.

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Harris TweedAll are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides).There are two types of Harris Tweed:1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn.2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn.Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labour. It is always stamped to that effect in addition to the label which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28" widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smokey.

Derivation: From one of the islands where it's made "Harris". Trademark.

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Heat Transfer PrintingThe technique of printing fabrics by transferring a printed design from paper to fabric via heat and pressure. It's derived from the art of decalcomania, which is the process of transferring pictures or designs from specially prepared paper to other materials such as glass. HTP paper is the starting point for heat transfer printing. Transfer printing is used mainly on fine knit fabrics and lightweight fabrics and is rapidly gaining in importance in textile circles. Also being used by apparel makers on parts of garments to enhance their fashion appeal.

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HenequenIt is obtained from the leaves of the Agave fourcroydes plant, which is native to Mexico. It is produced by mechanically decorticating the leaves into strands from 4 to 5 feet. Henequen, sisal, and bowstring hemp belong to the family Agavaceae.

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SisalSisal is one of a group of fibres obtained from the leaves of plants. It is obtained from a plant that belongs to the Agave family and is raised in Mexico, especially in the Yucatan peninsula. The fibre is also cultivated in Africa, Java, and some areas of South America. Sisal can be dyed bright colours, by means of both cotton dyes and acid dyes normally used for wool. It is important in the manufacture of such items as matting, rough handbags, ropes and cordage and carpeting.

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Henrietta

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: Originally consisted of worsted filling and silk warp. Today, it can be found in a variety of blends. It has excellent drapability. Its weight and quality vary with fibres, however, when created with silk and wool it is lustrous and soft.

Uses: Dress goods.

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Herringbone Twill

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: It was named after the skeleton of the Herring as this is what the fibre pattern resembles. It is usually created in wool and has varying qualities. It is also known as Arrowhead.

Uses: Suitings, top coatings, sports coats.

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Hickory Cloth

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: It is characterised by its excellent durability. It is warp striped and comes in a variety of colours. It usually is created with cotton.

Uses: Work clothes.

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HonanFibre: Silk, also from man-made synthetics.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: The best grade of wild silk. Very similar to "pongee" but finer. Made from wild silkworms raised in the Honan area of China. The only wild type that gives even dyeing results. Do not fit too tightly.

Uses: Dresses, ensembles, blouses, lingerie.

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Honey CombFibre:

Weave: Float

Characteristics: Its name comes from a French word meaning birds nest. Its patterns are regular and open. Honey Comb is found in many fabrics and is also known as Diamond Weave.

Uses: Draperies, jackets and women's clothing.

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Hong KongThis is a ribbed fabric usually found in plain colours. It comes in a variety of qualities but the best type is made out of silk.

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HopsackingFibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hemp, jute.

Weave: Basket. In wool and worsted 2 x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to resemble hopsack cloth.

Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights.

Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for dresses.

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HoundstoothFibre: most commonly made with wool.

Weave: broken twill weave.

Characteristics: weaved into an irregular check of a four pointed star.

Uses: sport coats, suits.

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HuckabackFibre: Linen, cotton.

Weave: Dobby or basket.

Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colours, or coloured borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.

Uses: Mostly used for towelling.

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IllusionFibre: Silk.

Weave: Gauze or made on bobbinet machine or knotted.

Characteristics: A very fine, all-silk tulle which originated in France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths.

Uses: Veilings, particularly for weddings, trimmings.

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TulleFibre: Silk, nylon, cotton.

Weave: Gauze, knotted, leno, made on a lace machine.

Characteristics: a soft fine silk etc. net for veils and dresses. First made by Machine in 1768. Has a hexagonal mesh and is stiff. It is difficult to launder. Comes is white and colours, and is very cool, dressy, and delicate.

Uses: It is a stately type of fabric when used for formal wear, and weddings. It is also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.

Derivation: Tulle, a town in SW France, where it was first made

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IxtleFibre Linen, cotton.

Weave: Dobby or basket.

Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colours, or coloured borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.

Uses:

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JackrabbitAnimal also known as a Hare. Hair texture is woolly.

Uses: Felting.

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JerseyFibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.

Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).

Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.

Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

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KapokA seed fibre or floss obtained from the cotton tree. It is used chiefly for stuffing.

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KarakulAlso caracul. n. Also called broadtail. A breed of Central Asian sheep having a wide tail and wool that is curled and glossy in the young but wiry and coarse in the adult. Fur made from the pelt of a karakul lamb.

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KenafIt is a bast fibre that is obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant. The stalk of this plant varies in height from 8 to 12 feet and is about half an inch in diameter. Kenaf is mostly produced in India and Pakistan but also grows in Africa, South East Asia, Indonesia, Russia, Mexico, the Philippines, Cuba and the United States. It is mainly used for cordage, canvas, and sacking. It is sometimes used as a substitute for Jute.

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Lambs WoolLamb`s Wool:Elastic, soft, resilient wool fibres obtained from lambs when they are seven or eight months old - the first or virgin clipping from the animal. This lofty stock is used in better grades of fabrics.

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LameLamé:Fibre: Silk or any textile fibre in which metallic threads are used in the warp or the filling. Lamé is also a trade mark for metallic yarns.

Weave: Usually a figured weave but could be any.

Characteristics: A fabric with gold or silver threads interwoven. Often has pattern all over the surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear. The term comes from the French for "worked with gold and silver wire".

Uses: Principally for evening wear. a fabric with gold or silver threads interwoven

Derivation: French for "trimmed with leaves of gold or silver", from Latin lamina

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LampasA term describing a jacquard fabric, a term interchangeable with a brocade or damask. Can be two-tone or multicolour, the difference being that the design has a greater raised effect on the face of the fabric.

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Latex

Characteristics: Natural and synthetic fibres are made from this raw material. Natural Latex is a white milky emulsion.

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LisereA jacquard fabric usually made with a taffeta or faille ground. The design is created by coloured warp threads brought up on the face of the fabric, leaving loose yarns on the back. These threads are sometimes clipped.

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Loden ClothFibre: Wool or mixed-wool.

Characteristics: It was originally made exclusively from wool but is now found in a combination of wool with alpaca, mohair or camel. It is well known for its thickness, durability and resistance to water.

Uses: Winter clothes and sportswear.

Derivation: From the German word Loda, which means hair cloth.

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LongclothIt is one of the first fabrics created in especially long strips. Its lustre is moderate but its quality is fairly high. This cotton and cotton blend fabric is very soft.

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Lustre Fabric

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: It is created using fibres with high lustre such as worsted or mohair yarn. Warp threads are used to create this fabric. Cotton is usually the main component, however, sometimes manufactured fibres are used.

Uses:

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Lycraan elastic polyurethane fibre or fabric used esp. for close-fitting sports clothing

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Lyons VelvetA stiff, thick pile velvet. Used for hats, coat collars, also for suits, coats and dresses, when thick velvets are fashionable.

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MackinawFibre: Wool. Ordinary grade of wool and often has shoddy re-used or remanufactured wool mixed in. Sometimes a cotton warp is used.

Weave: Twill or double cloth. Weave is concealed.

Characteristics: Very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave. Much of the fabric is in a plaid or large check design or brightly coloured, or different colours on each side. Heavy and thick, very similar to melton. Named for MacKinac Island, Michigan. Also called ski cloth or snow cloth.

Uses: Miners, lumbermen, hunters, trappers, fishermen, and cowboys use much of the fabric for jackets, mackinaws and coats. Also used for blankets, shirts, and some heavy sportswear, windbreakers.

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MacrameMacramé:

Weave: knotted lace

Characteristics: Originally made in Arabia but later made in Italy. Used to manufacture shawls and scarfs.

Uses:

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MadrasFibre: Cotton - some in rayon and silk.

Weave: Plain, also dobby or jacquard for designs.

Characteristics: Originated in Madras, India and it is a very old cloth. Much of it has a plain coloured background with stripes, plaid, checks, or designs on it. Has a high thread count and fine. Made with combed or carded yarns depending on the quality. Some is mercerised to make it lustrous and durable. Often the dyes are not fast and with each washing, colour changes take place.

Uses: Men's and women's sportswear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts.

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Manufactured Fibre

Characteristics: Its commercial use is still fairly recent. It was only one hundred years ago that Manufacture Fibres were utilised in this fashion, beginning with artificial silk in 1889. It is very flexible and versatile and can be cared for easily. It is wrinkly free, flame resistant and very comfortable.

Uses:

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Marble Cloth

Characteristics: Originally made of silk and wool. Today it is produced with natural and manufactured fibres.

Uses:

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Marocain

Characteristics: It is ribbed with a wavy look, resembling Crêpe. It is made of silk, wool and manufactured fibres.

Uses: Suits.

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MarquisetteFibre: Silk, cotton, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Gauze or lino.

Characteristics: Very lightweight, open, sheer, mesh fabric. Wears very well and launders very well. Comes in white, solid colours and novelty effect. Sometimes with a swivel dot or clip spot (marquisette).

Uses: Window curtains, dressy dress wear, such as bridal parties or after 5 wear.

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MarseillesFibre:

Weave:

Characteristics: Named after its city of origin in France. It is identified by its raised woven pattern. This double-faced textile has a quilted appearance that is very elegant. usually found in white, but occasionally other colours are used.

Uses:

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MatelasseFrench for "cushioned or padded". Fibre: Figured made on jacquard or dobby loom, in double cloth weave.

Characteristics: The pattern stands out and gives a "pouch" or "quilted" effect to the goods. Crêpe yarn in double weave shrinks during finishing causing a blistering effect. in upholstery, coarse yarns cause blistering. Comes in colours, novelty effects, and some with metallic yarns. Gives good wear and drapes well. If washable, it must be laundered with care. It is very attractive and suits quite plain styles.

Uses: Some cotton matelasse used for bedspreads, dresses, suits, ensembles.

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MelwynThis remarkable fabric, is produced in only one small Cornish village. Known for its durability and attractive if somewhat rugged appearance.

Derivation: Obscure, possibly Celtic in origin.

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MercerisationA process whereby cotton is treated with a solution of Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide) to improve its dye affinity and lustre. Invented by John Mercer in 1844. Used in the creation of Damask.

Derivation: Named after the inventor: John Mercer.

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MessalineFibre: Silk

Weave:

Characteristics: Often believed to be named after the Roman Emperor Claudius' third wife. It is very soft, lustrous and lightweight. It usually comes in solid colours.

Uses:

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Metallic FibresFibre:

Weave:

Characteristics:

Uses:

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Micro-FibreVery fine Nylon or Polyester filaments. Produce light soft and breathable fabrics.

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ModacrylicFibre:

Weave:

Characteristics: It is very resilient and soft. It retains its shape and is resistant to chemicals, flames and abrasion.

Uses:

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MoireMoiré:Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton.

Weave: Plain or crosswise rib.

Characteristics: Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between engraved cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently. The pattern is not permanent, except on acetate rayon.

Uses: After 5 wear, formals, dresses and coats, draperies, bedspreads.

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Monks ClothMonk's Cloth:Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.

Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.

Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew or manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture.

Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.

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Montagnac

Weave: Twill.

Characteristics: This luxurious textile is soft and lustrous. It is mainly created with Cashmere or Camel hair.

Uses: Overcoating.

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Moss CrepeMossy Crêpe or Sand Crêpe (trade mark). Has a fine moss effect created by plain weave or small Dobby. Made with a spun-rayon warp and a filament rayon filling. The two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and bulkier than the filling. Mostly made in rayon and synthetics but some in silk.

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Mousseline de SoieFibre: Silk.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: It is silk muslin. Sheer, open, and lightweight. It is something like chiffon but with a crisp finish produced by sizing. It does not wear well and it does not launder.

Uses: Evening wear, and bridal wear. Trimmings. Also used in millinery as a backing.

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Muskrat

Characteristics: Mostly found in North America. The thick blue-grey, which resembles the beaver's, has fibres that are extremely fine.

Uses: Primarily used by the fur industry.

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Nacre VelvetThe back is of one colour and the pile of another, so that it gives a changeable, pearly appearance.

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NinnonFibre: Rayon. Synthetics.

Weave: Plain, open mesh.

Characteristics: A sheer, fairly crisp fabric, heavier than chiffon. Much like Voilé, but more body. The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs. Washes well, particularly in the synthetics.

Uses: Mostly used for curtains, and some for evening or bridal wear.

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Non-Crushable LinenFibre:

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: It is very versatile and has excellent washability and durability. It is treated so as to create a high resistance to wrinkling. This finish provides greater resilience and elasticity.

Uses:

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Nutria

Characteristics: Mainly found in South America. Beautiful, silky, fine belly undergrowth.

Uses: Primarily used by the fur industry but the textile industry often uses fibres in blends emphasizing softness.

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Oilcloth

Characteristics: Originally, textiles such as cotton were coated in oil to create resistance to moisture. Now, resins from plastics are used instead of oil. Olefin is a very versatile fibre with excellent flexibility.

Uses: Waterproof garments, book bags, belts, bibs, pencil cases, luggage, surgical supplies.

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Olefin Fibre

Characteristics: It is very lightweight yet strong. It is resistant to abrasion, soil, stains and deterioration from mildew, and damage from chemicals. It is also quick drying and colourfast.

Uses: Various uses such as apparel, interior parts of automobiles, furniture and carpets.

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OmbreA fabric woven with shades of one colour from light to dark in the warp, usually creating a striped effect.

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Ondule

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Its name is derived from a French word meaning wavy. This wavy effect is created by weaving the warp irregularly. It is created in silk, cotton and manufactured fibres.

Uses:

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Opossum

Characteristics: Can be found in Australia, Southern USA and Argentina. white face and fur that is loose, greyish and white-tipped.

Uses: Pelting used chiefly as trimming for cloth coats.

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Organdiea fine translucent cotton muslin, usually stiffened to form a durable crisp finish. Also US Organdy.

Derivation: French organdi, of unknown origin

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OrganzaFibre: Silk, rayon.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: A thin stiff transparent silk or synthetic dress fabric. Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen.

Uses: All types of after 5 dresses, trimming, neckwear, millinery, and underlinings for delicate, sheer materials, as well as an underlining for other fabrics that require a bit of stiffness without weight.

Derivation: probably from Lorganza (US trade name)

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Osnaberg

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Osnaberg is characterised by its strength and durability. It is medium to heavyweight. It is coarse and varies in both colour and print. May or may not be treated with a finish. If it is finished, it is also known as Hopsacking or Crash.

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OttomanFibre: Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics.


Characteristics: A heavy silken fabric with a mixture of cotton or wool. Heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline. Very pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely. Is called Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed. Fabric is stiff and cannot be gathered or shirred. Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too tightly.

Uses: Evening wraps, formal coats, dressy suits, dressy afternoon wear, and after 5 wear.

Derivation: French ottomane, fem. of ottoman OTTOMAN

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OxfordFibre: Cotton - some in rayon.

Weave: Plain variations - usually basket 2 x 1.

Characteristics: Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Better qualities are mercerised. rather heavy. Usually is all white but some has a spaced stripe in the warp direction. Launders very well but soils easily. When made with yarn dyed warp and white weft, it is called oxford chambray. The one remaining commercial shirting material made originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names of four Universities - Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard, and Yale.

Uses: Men's shirts mostly. Also used for summer jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, and sportswear.

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Paillette SatinIt is characterised by its changeable colour and is available in a variety of different colours. It was originally executed in silk but is now made with manufactured fibres.

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Panne

Weave:

Characteristics: Panne is a French word meaning plush. It resembles velvet but has a much longer pile. It has high lustre and is made in silk, silk blends or with manufactured fibres.

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Panne VelvetHas a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high lustre made possible by a tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now often made as knit fabric.

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Paper TaffetaPlain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish.

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PBI

Characteristics: Highly resistant to flame. When exposed to heat, is prone to low shrinkage. Has exceptional thermal and chemical stability.

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Peau de CyngeCrêpe yarns are woven to create a silk textile with high lustre. It has a slightly slubbed texture and a good body.

Derivation: The name comes from a French phrase that means "swam skin".

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SlubbedSee Slub.

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Peau de PecheThe name comes from a French phrase meaning "skin of peach". This textile has a soft nap that is acquired after a finishing process.

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Peau de SoieSoft, satin-face, good quality cloth. It has a dull lustre. Has a grainy appearance, and is a characteristic in the cloth which may have a single or double face construction. Fine close ribs are seen in the filling direction. With the best grades, the fabric can be used on either side. Lower qualities are finished on one side only. Name means "skin of silk". Some cloth sold as peau de soie is really a de-lustred satin. It doesn't have the grainy appearance. Because of crosswise rib, fabric difficult to ease. Also sold as "de-lustred satin".

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Pekin

Weave: Novelty

Characteristics: It has a very fine quality. It is characterised by its vertical stripes of identical width that have equal widths between them. It consists of Cotton, wool, silk, or elaborate velvet stripes that are separated by satin.

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PillingFormation of fibre fuzz balls on a fabric surface by wear or friction.

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Pin CheckFibre: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon.

Weave: Twill.

Characteristics: A minute check effect caused by a combination of weave and colour. It has the appearance of tiny white dots appearing in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well. In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.

Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.

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PinheadFibre: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon.

Weave: Twill.

Characteristics: A minute check effect caused by a combination of weave and colour. It has the appearance of tiny white dots appearing in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well. In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.

Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.

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PiquéFibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave.

Characteristics: A stiff ribbed cotton or other fabric. Originally was a crosswise rib but now mostly a lengthwise rib and the same as Bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale (cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and carded stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Various prices. Also comes in different patterns besides wales. Some of the patterns are birds eye (small diamond), waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb honey). When the fabric begins to wear out it wears at the corded areas first.

Uses: Trims, collars, cuffs, millinery, infants wear, coats, and bonnets, women's and children's summer dresses, skirts and blouses, shirts, play clothes, and evening gowns.

Derivation: French, past part. of piquer: ‘prick, irritate’, from Romanic

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Pocket WeaveA jacquard double-layered fabric with several warps. The design is created with both warps and fillings.

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Point despritPoint_d'esprit:Fibre: Cotton - some in silk.

Weave: Leno, gauze, knotted, or mesh.

Characteristics: First made in France in 1834. Dull surfaced net with various sized holes. Has white or coloured dots individually spaced or in groups.

Uses: Curtains, bassinets, evening gowns.

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Polished CottonA plain weave cotton cloth characterised by a sheen ranging from dull to bright. Polish can be achieved either through the weave or the addition of a resin finish. Can be a solid colour, usually piece dyed or printed.

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Pompadour TaffetaOriginally executed in silk. Often has large floral designs in velvet or pile on a Taffeta ground. Occasionally stripes are used instead of flowers. Today it is made with manufactured fibres.

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Protein Base FibresFibre: Cellulose

Weave:

Characteristics: This cellulose fibre is highly absorbent. Its drapability and dyeability are excellent and it is fairly soft.

Uses:

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ProvenceFibre: Cotton.

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: This is a typed style of printing which characterises Provence, a French country.

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PyreneesFibre: Wool

Weave: Characteristics This fabric is made in France from the wool of Pyrenees sheep. The Pyrenees is a mountain chain between France and Spain. The fabric is well known because it is a high quality fabric which keeps warm.

Uses: Men's and women's dressing gowns.

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QiviutThe name comes from an Eskimo word meaning 'down'. This fibre is obtained from the Arctic Musk Ox. It is lustrous, soft, durable and free of oils.

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Raccoon

Characteristics: Native American. The fur is brown-brown and black.

Uses: Sportswear. Pelt is used for trimmings for cloth and fur coats. Only the woolly fibre is used for textile purposes.

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Radium

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Originated in Lyons France. It has high lustre and is smooth and soft.

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RajahFibre: Silk, rayon.

Weave: Plain - warp yarn is 4 thread organised - filling is heavier.

Characteristics: Made from a tussah silk or certain silk wastes. It belongs to the pongee family of silks. Made from irregular yarns, so has slubs and irregularities but thicker than shantung. it is rather compact and strong. Has a pebble-like feel and appearance. Comes in all colours as well as natural ecru shades, but often warp and filling are different colours (iridescent effect).

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RamieRamie is a natural woody fibre resembling flax. Also know as rhea and China grass, it is obtained from a tall shrub grown in South-east Asia. China, Japan, and southern Europe. The fibre is stiff, more brittle than linen, and highly lustrous. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. Ramie fibres are long and very fine. They are white and lustrous and almost silk-like in appearance. The strength of ramie is excellent and varies from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per denier. Elastic recovery is low and elongation is poor. Ramie lends itself to general processing for textile yarns, but its retting operation is difficult and costly, making the fibre unprofitable for general use. When combed, ramie is half the density of linen, but much stronger, coarser, and more absorbent. It has permanent lustre and good affinity for dyes; it is affected little by moisture. Ramie is used as filling yarn in mixed woollen fabrics, as adulteration with silk fibres, and as a substitute for flax. The China-grass cloth use by the Chinese is made of Ramie. This fibre is also useful for rope, twine, and nets.

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Redwood BarkThis fibre is obtained from the bark of the California redwood tree. It is used for insulation and sometimes for blending with other fibres such as wool and cotton.

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ReppFibre: Wool, worsted, silk, rayon, wool ottoman, cotton or a blend.


Characteristics: Has a pronounced narrow cylindrical rib in the filling direction - less distinct than bengaline; more distinct than poplin. Sometimes a very distinct rib is alternated with a small rib. It is similar to poplin but heavier in cotton. Can be dyed, printed, or white. Frays badly. Difficult to press (may flatten rib).

Uses: Heavy suits, and coats for men's and boy's wear, and also for some women. Also used for upholstery and drapery.

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Romaine

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: It is a lightweight textile with a low thread count. it is lustrous and has an uneven textural appearance. It was originally made of silk but is found today in rayon, acetate, wool, silk and manufactured fibres.

Uses:

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Ruche

Characteristics: Fluted or crimped lace or gauze, used as a trimming

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Sanglier

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Its name is French for wild boar. It was named for its texture which is compact and wiry. It also has a very rough finish. It is usually created with mohair and worsted fibres.

Uses:

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Satin FaconneJacquard figured fabric with an all-satin weave background. Various types of striping effects are obtained. Jacquard figure on a satin ground.

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Satin-backSatin on one side and anything on the other. e.g. very good velvet ribbon has velvet on one side and satin on the other.

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Satin-back CrepeA reversible cloth with satin on one side and Crêpe on the other.

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Satinettea satin-like fabric made partly or wholly of cotton or synthetic fibre

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Saxonya fine woollen yarn for knitting, etc or a cloth made from this yarn. Originally made from the wool of sheep from the district of Saxony in Germany.

Derivation: From the place Saxony.

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SelvageNarrow edge of woven fabric (warp direction) usually of stronger yarns or denser construction than body of coth.

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Serpentine Crepe

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Its filling has a twisted thread therefore giving it an effect similar to Crêpe. The size of the Crêpe thread determines the texture. It is executed in a variety of fibres including manufactured ones.

Uses:

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Shadowy Organdy

Characteristics: It is lightweight, crisp and sheer. The shadowy effect is produced when one colour is repeatedly printed on itself.

Uses:

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SharkskinFibre: Worsted. Some wool. Also made in rayons and synthetics (particularly Arnel) but they are quite different.

Weave: 2 x 2 twill weave (1 white, 1 black up and same down).

Characteristics: The yarns in both the warp and filling are alternately white (or very light yarns) and coloured. The combination of weave and colour results in coloured lines running diagonally to the left opposite to the twill lines in a "step" effect. Has a very sleek, smooth, feel and appearance. Although it is fairly light in weight, it has a very substantial feel. Gives excellent wear and sheds dirt readily. Has many variations.

Uses: Used for men's and women's suits, lightweight coats and sportswear.

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ShatushThis is one of the finest textiles. It is created from white, silver or grey hair of wild goats. The supply of this hair is very limited so the textile is very rare. It is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world.

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Shotwoven so as to show different colours at different angles

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Shot TaffetaUsually plain weave, woven with one colour in the warp and another colour in the filling, which gives the fabric an iridescent look. If fabric is moved in the light this colour changes. Silk version of chambray.

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Simulated Linen FabricsVarious rayons, cottons, synthetics, and blends are woven with threads of uneven thickness to simulate linen. They lack the cool, firm, yet soft feel of linen. Their irregularities are too even when seen beside real linen.

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Slipper SatinStrong, compactly woven with quite a bit of body. It is used chiefly for footwear. Textures are high and the material comes coloured, black or white, or richly brocaded effects. - Shiniest satin.

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SouffleSoufflé:Fibre: Wool, also rayon and silk.

Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse.

Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and sponge-like in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle".

Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits.

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SpandexIt is an elastomeric fibre (a type of polyurethane) that can be stretched up to five times its original length without being damaged. It is lightweight and flexible. It resists deterioration from perspiration, detergent ad body oils. It is characterised by its strength and durability.

Uses: Main uses are athletic wear and foundation garments.

Derivation: arbitrary formation from EXPAND

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Spun RayonFibre: Rayon.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: Simulated cotton or wool made with staple fibres in a continuous strand to give this effect. Wears well and is washable. Made in different weights. Comes in plain colours and prints. Has soft, fuzzy surface. Blends well with cotton.

Uses: Dresses, suits, sportswear, men's shirts.

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Suede ClothFibre: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends.

Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted.

Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier.

Uses: Cleaning cloths, gloves, linings, sports coats.

Derivation: French (gants de) Suède ‘(gloves of) Sweden’

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Suede Leather1 leather, esp. kidskin, with the flesh side rubbed to make a velvety nap. 2 (also suede-cloth) a woven fabric resembling suede.

Derivation: French (gants de) Suède ‘(gloves of) Sweden’

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SulfarIt is a nonconductive fibre that is retardant to flame. It has excellent resistance to a variety of damaging chemicals and severe temperatures. This high-performance fibre retains its supreme strength, even in unfavourable conditions.

Uses:

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SunnThis bast fibre is obtained from the Crotalaria juncea plant. The fibres grow from 4 to 5 feet long and are retted and prepared like other bast fibres. Sunn contains over 80% cellulose and is highly resistant to moisture and mildew. This fibre is mainly produced in India although small amounts are grown in Uganda. It is mainly used for cordage, rug yarns, and paper. In India it is also used for fish nets and is sometimes used as a substitute for jute in bagging cloths.

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TapestryA heavy jacquard fabric usually multicoloured. Warps and filling very tightly woven. The designs vary from traditional to contemporary. Used for upholstery only.

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Taslan Toile De JouyA floral or scenic design usually printed on cotton or linen. Originally printed in Jouy, France, the fabrics were printed in single colours from engraved copper plates. The designs were characterized by classic motifs beautifully engraved and finely coloured. Today, some are multicoloured.

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Terry clothFibre: Cotton and some linen.

Weave: Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile.

Characteristics: Either all over loops on both sides of the fabric or patterned loops on both sides. Formed with an extra warp yarn. Long wearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities have a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops. Very absorbent, and the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called "Turkish towelling".

Uses: Towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip covers, and draperies.

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TikingFibre: Cotton

Weave: Usually twill (L2/1 or L3/1), some jacquard, satin, and dobby.

Characteristics: Very tightly woven with more warp than filling yarns. Very sturdy and strong, smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and coloured stripes, but some patterned (floral). Can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and feather-proof.

Uses: Pillow covers, mattress coverings, upholstering and some sportswear. "Bohemian ticking" has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is feather-proof. Lighter weight than regular ticking. Patterned with narrow coloured striped on a white background or may have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling.

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Tissue TaffetaPlain weave, very light weight and transparent.

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Transparent VelvetLightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.

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Triple SheersHeavier and flatter than sheers. Almost opaque. Many are made from "Bemberg", which wears, drapes, and washes well. Sheers are used extensively for after 5 wear, as well as afternoon dresses in heavier weights, and some coats, lingerie, curtains, trims, etc.

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Tropical WorstedsFibre: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any fibre or blends of wool and a synthetic.

Weave: Plain and rather open weaves.

Characteristics: The yarns are very tightly twisted and woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and tropical wear. It has a clear finish. Wears and tailors very well.

Uses: Both men's and women's suits and coats.

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Tufting YarnHooked by needle into fabric structure usually at a very high speed developed initially for carpeting. Recently developed for upholstery fabric.

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Union ClothA plain weave fabric made from two or more different fibres. most often a cotton warp and a linen filling.

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UrenaThis bast fibre comes from the Urena lobata plant. In its wild state it grows 3 to 7 feet high and when cultivated can grow as tall as 13 feet. The fibre strands are cream coloured and have a wonderful lustre. This fibre is mainly grown in the Congo area although small amounts are also raised in Brazil, India and the Philippines. Urena has the same uses as jute.

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Utrecht VelvetOriginated in Utrecht, Holland where it was made of silk. It was pressed and crimped to produce a raised effect. Today both mohair and silk are used.

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Vair

Characteristics: Thought to be the fur of the squirrel, one of the most valuable furs of the middle ages.

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Velvet SatinA satin weave is used as the base for this luxurious figured silk, made with a cut pile effect.

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VenetianFibre: Worsted, wool worsted and wool, cotton.

Weave: 5 shaft satin, some in small repeat twill weaves, in cotton, 8 shaft satin (warp face). 2 ply warp and single filling.

Characteristics: Clear finish. Has a very good lustre finish which resembles satin. Some has a slight nap. Wears well - similar cloth has worsted warp and woollen filling.

Uses: In a good quality used for expensive suits for women and sports jackets for men. Also used for fine coatings for both men and women. In cotton, it resembles very heavy sateen and is used mostly for lining.

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VichyFibre: Cotton

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: The weave of this fabric is formed of horizontal bands and vertical bands respectively in a light and strong variants of the same colour.

Uses: Dress.

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VivyonThis is a non-toxic fibre with a high resistance to chemicals. It softens at low temperatures.

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ViyellaFibre: A blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton.

Weave: Twill.

Characteristics: Has the appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm. Holds a good pleat. Washable by machine. If made up in a slim skirt for women, should be underlined, as it has not much body.

Uses: Excellent for all kinds of children's and baby's wear, sportswear, men's and women's tailored shirts and dresses.

Derivation: Trademark

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VoileVoilé:Fibre: Cotton - also wool and called "Voilé de laine".

Weave: Plain, loosely woven.

Characteristics: A thin semi-transparent dress material of cotton, wool, or silk. Sheer and very light weight. Usually made with cylindrical combed yarns. To obtain a top quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used. Voilé drapes and gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns. Has a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand. "Voilé de Laine" is wool Voilé.

Uses: Dresses, blouses, curtains.

Derivation: French, = VEIL

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Warp-print TaffetaUsually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when design is distorted as fabric is woven.

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WeaselA common name for any of several small, furry, carnivorous mammals that are most abundant in North America and Europe but also occur elsewhere.

Uses: The fur industry uses nearly all the species of the weasel family in making coats, trimmings, capes etc. The textile industry uses large amounts of the fine fibres.

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WhipcordFibre: Worsted or woollen, also cotton and rayon.

Weave: Twill.

Characteristics: Very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. The twill is steep 63 degrees and goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it simulates the lash of a whip.

Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is also used for automobile seat covers and children's play suits.

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Wool BroadclothFibre: Wool. Also cotton and silk but very different from wool broadcloth.

Weave: Usually a twill with a two up and one down construction. Some also in the plain weave.

Characteristics: Has a napped face, closely sheared and polished, producing a silky gloss - in same group of fabrics as kersey, beaver cloth, melton. One way nap, must be handled like velvet when cutting. It comes in a variety of colours and weights. It is "dressy" fabric and must be handled with care - form fitting and drapes well.

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Wool Flannel

Weave: Usually twill, some plain.

Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a napped surface that partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights. More loosely woven than worsted flannel with a higher nap and bulkier hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined. Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard, it flattens in the nap. Comes in many colours, weights, and fancy effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn.

Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts. Shirts and sportswear.

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Worsted Flannel

Weave: Twill

Characteristics: Made in a variety of weights. More closely woven and harder than Wool Flannel. Can have a very slight nap on one side. Tailors very well. Presses well and holds a hard crease.

Uses: Men's suits, jackets and trousers. Women's coats, suits, skirts, and tailored dresses.

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Wool JerseyFibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.

Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).

Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.

Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

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ZibelineFibre: Wool from cross-bred yarns.

Weave: Satin.

Characteristics: The fabric is napped then steamed and pressed. The nap is long and lies in one direction. It is very lustrous and sleek. It may or may not be given a soft finish and feel. It is usually strong coloured and sometimes stripings (removal of colour) is noted in the cloth. Named for the "zibeline" a small animal found in Siberia. It belongs to the sable family and has fine black fur.

Uses: Coats, cloaks, capes and winter suits for women.

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FABRIC Dictionary