Recent And Future Developments In European Standardisation Concerning Testing Of Multifunctional Textiles

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Recent and future Recent and future developments in European developments in European Standardisation concerning Standardisation concerning testing of multifunctional testing of multifunctional

textilestextiles Luís Almeida

Department of Textile EngineeringSchool of Engineering – University of Minho

Guimarães - PORTUGAL

2005-11-15

22 Luis AlmeidaLuis Almeida

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INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

European Standardisation has assumed European Standardisation has assumed an important role especially after the an important role especially after the emergence of the Single European Market emergence of the Single European Market in 1993.in 1993.

Unlike ISO standards, CEN standards are Unlike ISO standards, CEN standards are to be compulsory adopted by all the CEN to be compulsory adopted by all the CEN members (even if the country has voted members (even if the country has voted against).against).


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Members of the European Committee of Members of the European Committee of Standardisation (CEN) at present are:Standardisation (CEN) at present are:

All the 25 European Union membersAll the 25 European Union members

Switzerland, Iceland and NorwaySwitzerland, Iceland and Norway

Affiliated members:Affiliated members:

Albania, Bulgaria, Croatia, Romania, the Albania, Bulgaria, Croatia, Romania, the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Turkey.and Turkey.


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There are about 300 Technical There are about 300 Technical Committees within CEN. Committees within CEN.

Within textiles, the most relevant are:Within textiles, the most relevant are:

CEN/TC162 – ProtectiCEN/TC162 – Protective clothing including ve clothing including hand and arm protection and life jacketshand and arm protection and life jackets

CEN/TC248 – Textiles and textile productsCEN/TC248 – Textiles and textile products

In this presentation, the main emphasis In this presentation, the main emphasis will be given on CEN/TC248.will be given on CEN/TC248.


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CEN/TC248CEN/TC248

CEN/TC248 has been created in 1990.CEN/TC248 has been created in 1990.The scope of CEN/TC248 is:

Standardization of the following g aspects of textiles, textile products and textile components of products:

1) test methods; 2) terms and definitions; 3) specifications and classifications; 4) equipment relevant for the testing and use of

textiles.


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CEN/TC248CEN/TC248

Since its creation, a total of 17 plenary Since its creation, a total of 17 plenary meetings took place.meetings took place.

276 European Standards have already 276 European Standards have already been developed and published since been developed and published since 1990.1990.

195 of these standards were adopted 195 of these standards were adopted simultaneously by CEN and ISO, under simultaneously by CEN and ISO, under the Vienna Agreement.the Vienna Agreement.


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CEN/TC248CEN/TC248StructureStructure

Secretariat Chairperson Secretary

BSI Mr F.Moore Mr T.Bellamy


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CEN/TC248CEN/TC248working groupsworking groups

WG 3

WG 4

WG 5

WG 8

WG 9

WG 10

WG 12

WG 14

WG 15

WG 19

WG 20

WG 21

WG 22

WG 24

Terry towels

Elasticity of fabrics

Test methods for the flammability of textiles

UV protective properties

Multifilament yarns

Characterisation of fibres

Safety of children's clothing

Upholstery fabrics

Prioritization of research topics

Size system of clothing

Physical testing of knitted fabrics and garments

Ropes and agricultural twines and fishing nets

Coated fabrics

Touch and close fasteners


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CEN/TC248CEN/TC248

One of the major tasks for CEN/TC248 is One of the major tasks for CEN/TC248 is the development of an the development of an European sizing European sizing system for clothessystem for clothes..

Two mandates from the European Two mandates from the European Commission have also recently been Commission have also recently been allocated to CEN/TC248:allocated to CEN/TC248:

Flammability of nightwearFlammability of nightwear

Safety of children’s clothingSafety of children’s clothing..


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CEN/TC248/WG9CEN/TC248/WG9

In 1994, CEN/TC248 has created an In 1994, CEN/TC248 has created an working group called “working group called “Prioritization of Prioritization of research topicsresearch topics”, with the following scope:”, with the following scope:““Establishment of priorities in terms of Establishment of priorities in terms of needs of research, in order to apply for needs of research, in order to apply for possible funding of projects in the field of possible funding of projects in the field of the EC Programme SMT (Standards, the EC Programme SMT (Standards, Measuring and Testing) through dedicated Measuring and Testing) through dedicated call for proposals.call for proposals.


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Several projects have been analysed by Several projects have been analysed by CEN/TC248/WG9 and later submitted to CEN/TC248/WG9 and later submitted to CEN/STAR for publication of “dedicated CEN/STAR for publication of “dedicated calls” for pre- and co-normative research.calls” for pre- and co-normative research.

The following projects have been financed The following projects have been financed under the 4th and 5th EU Framework under the 4th and 5th EU Framework Programmes for R&D:Programmes for R&D:


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Burning behaviour of curtains and drapes: Burning behaviour of curtains and drapes: flame spread measurement using a large flame spread measurement using a large ignition source ignition source

Development of standards for testing the Development of standards for testing the launderability of textile items in wet launderability of textile items in wet cleaning systems and drycleanability of cleaning systems and drycleanability of textile items hydrocarbon solvents - textile items hydrocarbon solvents - Machine testMachine test


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Two other dedicated calls have been published Two other dedicated calls have been published in 2001:in 2001:

Identification and quantification organic flame Identification and quantification organic flame retardant components on textile materialsretardant components on textile materials

Antibacterial and antifungal properties of textile Antibacterial and antifungal properties of textile materialsmaterials

Unfortunately, the projects presented to the call, Unfortunately, the projects presented to the call, although rated quite well, have not been although rated quite well, have not been financed, due to budget cuttings.financed, due to budget cuttings.


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Many other projects have been discussed; Many other projects have been discussed; some of them have lead to new standard some of them have lead to new standard methods, such as:methods, such as:Verification of the detection limits of Verification of the detection limits of certain arylamines derived from certain arylamines derived from azodyestuffs using chromatographic azodyestuffs using chromatographic methods.methods.Test method for assessment of UV Test method for assessment of UV protective properties of textiles.protective properties of textiles.


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In 1999 the scope of WG9 has been In 1999 the scope of WG9 has been redefined as:redefined as:

To define research needs in support of To define research needs in support of ongoing (co-normative) and future (pre-ongoing (co-normative) and future (pre-normative) standardisation and to prioritise normative) standardisation and to prioritise them in line with the guidelines of them in line with the guidelines of CEN/TC248 Business Plan.CEN/TC248 Business Plan.


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Since 2003, WG9 started to give more emphasis Since 2003, WG9 started to give more emphasis on the development of new areas of on the development of new areas of standardisation.standardisation.

WG9 has then proposed a new strategy for the WG9 has then proposed a new strategy for the future standardisation activities, namely in the future standardisation activities, namely in the area of area of high added value textile productshigh added value textile products, , including for instance including for instance health carehealth care and and well beingwell being, , multifunctional textilesmultifunctional textiles, , interactive textilesinteractive textiles, , sustainable developmentsustainable development, etc., etc.


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A link with the EU promoted MAXIQUEST A link with the EU promoted MAXIQUEST project has been established.project has been established.

MAXIQUEST - MAXIQUEST - MaxMaximising imising QuQuality and ality and EfEfficiency of ficiency of StStandards through Normative andards through Normative Research.Research.

www.maxiquest.netwww.maxiquest.net


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After an enquiry made in 2004, it was found that After an enquiry made in 2004, it was found that there are no relevant national standards which there are no relevant national standards which describe appropriate test methods in the area of describe appropriate test methods in the area of new functional textiles, including:new functional textiles, including:

cosmeto-textilescosmeto-textiles

electrostatic and electromagnetic barrier textileselectrostatic and electromagnetic barrier textiles

relaxing or massaging textilesrelaxing or massaging textiles

thermoregulatory textiles, etc. thermoregulatory textiles, etc.


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In 2004 it was decided to In 2004 it was decided to create a Task create a Task Group “COSMETO-TEXTILES”, to study Group “COSMETO-TEXTILES”, to study the development of test methods for the the development of test methods for the effectiveness, toxicity, durability and effectiveness, toxicity, durability and chemical analysis of textiles with cosmetic chemical analysis of textiles with cosmetic properties.properties.This group, convened by Robert Biguet This group, convened by Robert Biguet (IFTH), has had two meetings in 2005 and (IFTH), has had two meetings in 2005 and arrived to the following conclusions:arrived to the following conclusions:


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CosmetotextilesCosmetotextiles

Definition ofDefinition of COSMETOTEXTILECOSMETOTEXTILE::

Textile product with cosmetic Textile product with cosmetic propertiesproperties..

Examples of cosmetotextiles:Examples of cosmetotextiles:


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MoisturisingMoisturisingSlimmingSlimmingPerfumePerfumeEnergizingEnergizingRefreshingRefreshingRelaxingRelaxingVitalisingVitalisingUV protection ….UV protection ….


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Aspect to be considered in future Aspect to be considered in future standard(s):standard(s):

Chemical analysisChemical analysis

EfficiencyEfficiency of the product of the product

ToxicityToxicity of the product of the product

DurabilityDurability of the product of the product

LabellingLabelling of the cosmetotextile, information of the cosmetotextile, information to be providedto be provided


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Chemical AnalysisChemical Analysis

The cosmetic formula is covered by The cosmetic formula is covered by cosmetics industry test methods. cosmetics industry test methods.

The means of fixing the cosmetic to the The means of fixing the cosmetic to the textile (microencapsulation, binder, textile (microencapsulation, binder, cyclodextrin, etc) is a textile property – cyclodextrin, etc) is a textile property – however, all additives have to comply with however, all additives have to comply with the cosmetics directive.the cosmetics directive.


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ToxicityToxicity

Cosmetic products are again covered by Cosmetic products are again covered by the directive. the directive.

Textile finishing has to be considered. The Textile finishing has to be considered. The whole system needs to be looked at.whole system needs to be looked at.


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EfficiencyEfficiency

It is a feature of the cosmetic productIt is a feature of the cosmetic product

It might be that a special method, relative It might be that a special method, relative to cosmetotextiles, needs to be developed to cosmetotextiles, needs to be developed rather than utilise a cosmetic test method.rather than utilise a cosmetic test method.


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DurabilityDurability of the active ingredient on the textile of the active ingredient on the textilee.g. how many wash (or dry clean) wear cycles e.g. how many wash (or dry clean) wear cycles can the product withstand. can the product withstand. Issues such as rubbing, sweating and heat need Issues such as rubbing, sweating and heat need to be considered. to be considered. As durability (presence) of the cosmetic is totally As durability (presence) of the cosmetic is totally textile related this parameter can be addressed textile related this parameter can be addressed immediately for standardisation. immediately for standardisation. Durability of the effect of the cosmetic is a more Durability of the effect of the cosmetic is a more difficult subject.difficult subject.


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Environmental AspectsEnvironmental Aspects

It is not yet clear which environmental aspects It is not yet clear which environmental aspects need to be considered.need to be considered.

Components before application are the concern Components before application are the concern of either cosmetic or chemical directives.of either cosmetic or chemical directives.

Aspects during and at the end of the textile Aspects during and at the end of the textile product's life should be considered.product's life should be considered.

However, environmental aspects are considered However, environmental aspects are considered to be less critical than the other four criteria.to be less critical than the other four criteria.


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In the last meeting of CEN/TC248 in In the last meeting of CEN/TC248 in Vilnius, it has been agreed to create a new Vilnius, it has been agreed to create a new working group to develop a new standardworking group to develop a new standard

WG25 – Cosmeto-textilesWG25 – Cosmeto-textiles

A call for experts is now open.A call for experts is now open.

The first meeting will take place in Paris in The first meeting will take place in Paris in February/March 2006.February/March 2006.


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UV protectionUV protection

UV protection can be considered as a UV protection can be considered as a success in terms of European success in terms of European Standardisation.Standardisation.In fact, within CEN/TC248 two standards In fact, within CEN/TC248 two standards have been developed which include:have been developed which include:Definition and test methodDefinition and test methodLabelling.Labelling.This method is expected to be adopted as This method is expected to be adopted as EN ISO standard.EN ISO standard.


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Electrostatic properties Electrostatic properties of textilesof textiles

In 2005, a survey about the In 2005, a survey about the electrostatic electrostatic propertiesproperties of textiles has been made by Fred of textiles has been made by Fred Foubert (Centexbel).Foubert (Centexbel).It was found that this subject is already It was found that this subject is already extensively covered by:extensively covered by:CEN/TC 162 - protective clothing against CEN/TC 162 - protective clothing against accumulation of electrostatic chargesaccumulation of electrostatic charges CENELEC TC 78 - risks of working with live CENELEC TC 78 - risks of working with live electrical installationselectrical installationsIEC/TC 101 - electrostatic properties of all kinds IEC/TC 101 - electrostatic properties of all kinds of productsof products – methods for garments and for floor – methods for garments and for floor coverings are being developed.coverings are being developed.


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Electrostatic properties Electrostatic properties of textilesof textiles

It was concluded that:It was concluded that:

Electrostatic propertiesElectrostatic properties of textiles are not a of textiles are not a suitable work area for CEN/TC 248suitable work area for CEN/TC 248

In terms of In terms of conductive propertiesconductive properties of of textiles in view of new uses such as “textiles in view of new uses such as “smart smart textilestextiles”, further studies should be made”, further studies should be made

A study on this subject will be developed A study on this subject will be developed in 2006.in 2006.


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Thermoregulatory Thermoregulatory properties of textilesproperties of textiles

A survey about the A survey about the Thermoregulatory propertiesThermoregulatory properties of textiles has also been made in 2005.of textiles has also been made in 2005.The following test methods exist in the area of The following test methods exist in the area of textiles:textiles:EN 31092:1994 – Textiles – Determination of EN 31092:1994 – Textiles – Determination of physiological properties. Measurement of physiological properties. Measurement of thermal and water-vapour resistance under thermal and water-vapour resistance under steady-state conditions (sweating guarded-steady-state conditions (sweating guarded-hotplate test)hotplate test)EN ISO 15831:2004 – Clothing - Physiological EN ISO 15831:2004 – Clothing - Physiological effects - Measurement of thermal insulation by effects - Measurement of thermal insulation by means of a thermal manikinmeans of a thermal manikin


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The following test methods exist in the area of The following test methods exist in the area of footwear:footwear:

EN 12784:1999 Footwear - Test methods for EN 12784:1999 Footwear - Test methods for whole shoe - Thermal insulation whole shoe - Thermal insulation

EN 13521:2001 Footwear - Test methods for EN 13521:2001 Footwear - Test methods for uppers, lining and insocks - Thermal insulationuppers, lining and insocks - Thermal insulation

EN ISO 20344:2005 Personal protective EN ISO 20344:2005 Personal protective equipment - Test methods for footwear (includes equipment - Test methods for footwear (includes a test method for insulation against cold)a test method for insulation against cold)


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It was concluded that existing test methods are It was concluded that existing test methods are quite complicated and mainly related to quite complicated and mainly related to protective clothing or footwear. protective clothing or footwear. The development of simpler test methods can be The development of simpler test methods can be a relevant and interesting topic to be further a relevant and interesting topic to be further developed within CEN/TC248. developed within CEN/TC248. A more detailed survey of existing test methods, A more detailed survey of existing test methods, namely for foot wear and also of national or non namely for foot wear and also of national or non standardised test methods should be made.standardised test methods should be made.Similarly to the cosmetic properties, a special Similarly to the cosmetic properties, a special “Task Group” has been created, which will start “Task Group” has been created, which will start its activities in 2006.its activities in 2006.


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Chemical analysis Chemical analysis of textilesof textiles

Especially in view of detection of harmful Especially in view of detection of harmful substances, it is very important to have substances, it is very important to have standard methods for extraction of standard methods for extraction of chemicals from textiles.chemicals from textiles.

Aspects to be standardised include Aspects to be standardised include sampling and extraction methods.sampling and extraction methods.


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Two important standards have been developed Two important standards have been developed within CEN/TC248 in 2003, related to the EU within CEN/TC248 in 2003, related to the EU Directive that forbids the use of certain azo Directive that forbids the use of certain azo dyestuffs:dyestuffs:EN 14362 - Textiles - Methods for the EN 14362 - Textiles - Methods for the determination of certain aromatic amines derived determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colorantsfrom azo colorantsPart 1: Detection of the use of certain azo Part 1: Detection of the use of certain azo colorants accessible without extractioncolorants accessible without extractionPart 2: Detection of the use of certain azo Part 2: Detection of the use of certain azo colorants accessible by extracting the fibres.colorants accessible by extracting the fibres.


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The method of The method of samplingsampling has not been has not been adequately thought out, with the result that adequately thought out, with the result that some laboratories base results on the some laboratories base results on the whole garment and others on the area whole garment and others on the area containing the harmful chemical. containing the harmful chemical. The sampling method should be defined The sampling method should be defined so that all users will use the same criteria so that all users will use the same criteria and results from different sources will be and results from different sources will be comparable.comparable.


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In terms of In terms of extractionextraction of chemicals from of chemicals from textiles, there are different possible textiles, there are different possible approaches.approaches.For instance, Öko-Tex 100 Standard limits For instance, Öko-Tex 100 Standard limits are based on an extraction with an organic are based on an extraction with an organic solvent, a simulated sweat or saliva solvent, a simulated sweat or saliva solution.solution.The analysis of the extracts is common to The analysis of the extracts is common to most existing test methods. most existing test methods.


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The following decisions have been taken:The following decisions have been taken: a) within CEN/TC248/WG9, Irene Häglund a) within CEN/TC248/WG9, Irene Häglund

(IFP) will make in 2006 a survey in the area (IFP) will make in 2006 a survey in the area of chemical analysis of textiles.of chemical analysis of textiles.

b) within CEN/TC248, a new working group - b) within CEN/TC248, a new working group - WG26 - WG26 - has been created,has been created, under the under the convenorship of Stefan Posner (IFP), to convenorship of Stefan Posner (IFP), to develop a Method of Test for Phthalates.develop a Method of Test for Phthalates.


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CONCLUSIONCONCLUSION

The development of new functionalities in The development of new functionalities in textiles leads to the need of textiles leads to the need of standardisation in terms ofstandardisation in terms of

Terms and definitionsTerms and definitions

Test methodsTest methods

Labelling…Labelling…


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CONCLUSIONCONCLUSION

Within textiles, CEN/TC248/WG9 will Within textiles, CEN/TC248/WG9 will continue to promote these developments.continue to promote these developments.

Hopefully, the 7th EU R&D Framework Hopefully, the 7th EU R&D Framework Programme will devote a specific budget Programme will devote a specific budget for actions related to pre- and co-for actions related to pre- and co-normative research.normative research.


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Maxiquest FutureMaxiquest Future

ERA-NORM

CEN

Techical Committees

National Ministries &

Agencies

NSB's

EUREKA

FP6/ 7

Normative Researchers

CEN/STAR