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Marimekko dress was knitted using Ioncell method that offers novel possibilities,
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Marimekko-dress knitted frombirch – Ioncell method offersnovel possibilities
Herbert SixtaSchool of Chemical Technology
WoolSilkAngoraCashmereothers
CottonFlaxJuteHempOthers
ViscoseModalLyocellCuproAcetate
CaseinCollagenArdeinZein
PolyesterPolyamideElastanPPPUAcrylPET
CarbonCeramicsGlassMetal
Cellulosebased
(MMCF)Protein-based
Cellulosebased
Protein-based
Natural fibersFrom natural
polymersSyntheticpolymers
Inorganiccompounds
Man-made fibers
FIBERS
Textile Fibers Overview
Cellulosebased
(MMCF)
Global Production of Textiles
Man-made cellulosics : CV, CLY, ACETATENatural fibers : CO, Wool, Flax, Hemp, Silk, etc.Synthetic fibers: PE, PP, PA, PAC
The Fiber Year 2013 - World Survey on Textiles & Nonwovens
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 20200
20
40
60
80
Global Fiber Production, Mio t
50.8 Mt Synthetics
5.5 Mt other NF1.1 Mt Wool
5.2 Mt MMCF
23.3 Mt CO
Predicted growth of Regenerated cellulosefiber
The Fiber Year 2013: World Survey on Textiles`& Nonwovens, April 2013
Global textile market- Cotton stagnant at 26-28 Mio t/a- 33-37% minimum share of
cellulosics in textiles- GAP of 15 Mio t/a of cellulosic
fibers in 2030
Growth rates- Viscose, Lyocell > 9%/a- Acetate 1.5%/a
1940 1960 1980 2000 20200
2
4
6
8
10 MMC staple fiber, Mio t/a
1940 1960 1980 2000 20200
2
4
6
8
10 MMC staple fiber, Mio t/a
6%
9%
6%
Textile chain
http://www.lenzing.com/en/fibers/tencel/botanic-fiber.html
IONCELL-F Final product
Viscose vs. Lyocell
Viscose Lyocell
NaOH / CS2
wet spinning dry-jet wet spinning
derivatization direct dissolution
wood pulp
Andrzej Ziabicki, Fundamentals of fiber spinning,John Wiley & Sons Ltd, (ISBN: 0-471-98220-2).Michael Hummel
O
NO
H2O
Why Alternatives to NMMO?
NMMO is an oxidant and relatively unstable:• Autoxidation reactions via Carbonium-iminium ions:
Stabilizer
• Radical scavenger• Formaldehyde trap
Rosenau, T. et al. Cellulose, 2002, 9, 283Rosenau, T. et al. Progress in Polymer Science, 2001, 26(9), 1763-1837.
IONCELL-FLyocell Process using a
stable ionic liquid
Spinning line: Dope preparation
Final dope has to be filtrated and degassed
pulp
Ionic Liquid
10
Extrusionvelocity
Take-up velocity
Spinning line: Extrusion
Spinning line: Aftertreatment
11
dryingwashingcollecting
IONCELL* Solution
UNSTRETCHED STRETCHED
Dope Spinnability
Good spinnability
Adapted from A. Michud et al. ACS conference, New Orleans, 2013
65-70ºC
IONCELL-F Production
Comparative strength properties
Finnish Birch Pulp as raw material
0 5 10 15 20 250
200
400
600
800
1000
CuproViscose, CV
NMMO
Tena
city
cond
[MP
a]
Elongationcond [%]
IONCELL-F
Modal, CMD
0 10 20 30 400,0
0,2
0,4
0,6
0,8
1,0
CV CMDNMMO
Tirecord
s, GPa
Young's modulus [GPa]
IONCELL-F
IONCELL fiber shows superior strength properties and can bealso used as reinforcing fiber in light weight composites
Fiber Value Chain
15
Waste Paper and Board as Raw MaterialNOT SENSITIVE TO RAW MATERIAL:Pre-treated, and DP-adjusted Recycled Copy Paper (P) andBoard (B) used as raw material
P1 P1 P2 B4 B5 B3 B2 PHK CV0
10
20
30
40
50
60
REFBOARD
Tensile Strength, cN/tex
COPY PAPER
Properties from IONCELLfibers prepared from recycledpaper and board superior thanreference viscose fibers (CV).
Yibo Ma, PhD Thesis
Demonstration runs
SCARF: 11/13 Marimekko®DRESS: 3/14
designed by Tuula Pöyhönen