Hong Kong + Macau Guide - Connect magazine

24 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009

GLOBAL TRAVELLERultimate guide

25OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect


set sail for HOnG KOnG

& mAcAu

A decade or so after being handed back to China, the former British and Portuguese colonies of Hong Kong and Macau, now Special Administrative Regions, continue to shine as beacons of business and havens of hospitality. There’s plenty to do here, from indulging in the bountiful five-star luxuries to simple pleasures like hiking or swimming at one of the many public beaches. Both cities are very safe, and despite rapid development, it’s not all about skyscrapers and sky-high prices. Not by a long shot, as GLEn WATsOn reports

2524 connect OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2009 connect


sights 26 China, sort of Go bigger picture in Hong Kong and Macau, from trekking the former’s high-gradient greenspaces to bungee jumping off the latter’s tallest tower

Tastes 32 the sum of these parts The Canton region of South China is where dim sum originates; Hong Kong and Macau are where it shines

city Guides 35 Functional and savvy mini guides to Hong Kong and Macau

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AsIA’s WORLD cITY: Take a HikeHong Kong’s oft-criticised tourism board has been promoting the Asia’s World City slogan for many years – much to the chagrin of the city’s residents, who believe there must be a better way to describe, and promote, their home. But such an international city in population, attitude and outlook is hard to describe in a single tagline or sound bite.

Visitors taking a car or the Airport Express train into the city probably won’t fail to notice Hong Kong’s many large, green mountains. The word “Kowloon” approximates “nine dragons” in Cantonese; even though this area to the north has eight peaks (the invisible one refers to an emperor, also considered a dragon). The highest peak, Tai Mo Shan, is 957m. Hong Kong’s next highest point of land is Lantau Peak (Fung Wo Shan) at 934m. Victoria Peak, aka

OPENING SPREAD: Explore victoria Harbour, by junk

THIS SPREAD, FAR LEFT:Trekking on The peak, overlooking Central and Wanchai

TOP: Century-old po Lin Monastery on Ngong ping plateau, Lantau Island

ABOVE: The Lady Millenary Handicap Race, at the Audemars piguet Queen Elizabeth II Cup meeting at the sha Tin Racecourse

The Peak, on Hong Kong Island is 552m. The MacLehose trail system in Kowloon spreads

across much of the Sai Kung area in the northeast. The annual Oxfam Trailwalker charity event in November sees about 3,800 people in four-person teams attempt to complete the 100km route within the 48-hour time limit. A record time of 11 hours and 52 minutes was set last year.

Visit a bookstore in Hong Kong to find local hiking books, such as Hong Kong Pathfinder by Martin Williams, and The Leisurely Hiker’s Guide to Hong Kong by Pete Spurrier. information: www.discoverhongkong.com, www.drmartinwilliams.com, www.oxfamtrailwalker.org.hk, www.hkoutdoors.com, www.hkwalkers.net

china, sort ofSights:

Although they are unmistakeably Chinese cities, Hong Kong and Macau are increasingly international ports of call for business and for pleasure. But going to these melting pots to simply complete a deal or be dealt a few cards would mean missing out on the spectacular scenery, world-class restaurants and other experiences that buoy the city states’ global aspirations and reputations

HONG KONG

HAPPY VALLEY: Off to the RacesMany people say that you haven’t been to Hong Kong until you’ve placed a bet at Happy Valley racecourse on a Wednesday night (along with the 30,000 or so other spectators). You can stick to the ground-level beer garden and food area, which lets you slide right up to the rail and watch the horses and jockeys galloping towards the finish line, or you can go all the way to the top of the grandstand for a bird’s-eye view. Races have been held here since the 1840s.

There is also a much larger track facility in Sha Tin (Kowloon side) that offers weekend racing and has seating for 75,000 spectators, about double the capacity of Happy Valley. The season is from September to June and entry costs US$1.30. Children under 18 aren’t allowed. The Jockey Club’s staff will help you fill out the betting slips.

HONG KONG

There are special offers for out-of-town visitors, so remember to take your passport. Obtaining a tourist badge (US$13/$19 for major race meetings) gives you access to club members’ betting halls and trackside areas. information: www.hkjc.com


Kowloon

Hong Kong Island

Lantau Island

LammaIsland

Aberdeen

Cheung Chau

Lo Wu

Hoi Ha

Stanley

Hau Hoi Wan

(Deep Bay)

Tei pangWan(MiRS Bay)

New Territories





OuTLYInG IsLAnDs: Great EscapesCatch a ferry at the Central piers (in front of IFC Mall and Airport Express) and within an hour or so you can be on the peaceful islands of Lamma, Cheung Chau or Lantau. Quiet these islands may be compared to the city, but you will also find pubs, restaurants, beaches, hiking and biking trails, along with inexpensive guesthouses and holiday flats if you feel like staying overnight.

Lamma is the third-largest island in Hong Kong. The ferry takes 30 minutes, about half the time it takes for the other islands. Lamma’s beaches make some favourite stops on the island and many enjoy walking the paved path across this mountainous island towards the seafood restaurants in Sok Kwu Wan, which also has a ferry service from Central. The walk takes about an hour, with rest stops (there are no cars on Lamma).

Cheung Chau is a small island shaped like a peanut and it only takes a few minutes to walk across it to the main beach. This island is home to a large fishing community, as well as the annual Bun Festival in May.

The largest island is Lantau, home to the airport and Disneyland. But it is also where you’ll find Mui Wo, a village where you can relax before or after a hike on the Lantau Trail system. Catch a taxi or bus towards Cheung Sha beach, the longest in Hong Kong and home to a South African barbecue restaurant called The Stoep. information: www.lamma.com.hk, www.cheungchau.org, www.hkoutdoors.com, www.hkkf.com.hk, www.nwff.com.hk

TOP: A slower way of life among the fishing community of Cheung Chau island

ABOVE: Fishermen on Cheung sha beach, Lantau Island

Cheung Chau is a small island shaped like a peanut and it only takes a few minutes to walk across it to the main beach

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GAmBLInG In mAcAu: High stakesWhether you take the high-speed ferry or an even faster helicopter from Hong Kong, there is much to see and do in Macau. Despite the recent invasion and major construction by Las Vegas casino operators, this former Portuguese colony still retains a taste of its past (including the world’s oldest trade, and many historic sites and restaurants such as A Lorcha and Fernando’s). Macau’s taxi drivers are notoriously bad. Try pointing to your destination on a map as they don’t seem to speak English, Cantonese or Portuguese.

If you’re a punter, the options include Stanley Ho’s landmark Grand Lisboa casino, the Sands, Wynn, MGM Grand and about two dozen more that are usually open 24 hours. You will want to visit Cotai (a reclaimed area between Coloane and Taipa) to check out the monstrous Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel with

MACAU

ABOVE: Dealers await punters at Macau’s Grand Lisboa hotel and casino TOP RIGHT: The Dragone’s Treasure show in The bubble at City of Dreams

RIGHT: Done with rolling? plummet instead, off Macau Tower

cITY Of DREAms: Pinch meThe new kid on the Cotai block opened in June; you may want to get some fresh air before you explore City of Dreams (COD). It’s billed as an integrated resort, which means it offers dining, high-end shopping, live entertainment and several hotels, including a Hard Rock Hotel with the obligatory casino. Macau has overtaken Vegas in revenues and many more casinos will be built over the coming years, but at least all of this gambling malarkey has brought excellent live music and DJs to Macau, something seriously lacking in Hong Kong. The opening of the Hard Rock should bolster what the Venetian has been offering so far: big-name bands like The Police, Black Eyed Peas and Linkin Park.

Other entertainment includes several bars, a dome-shaped theatre called The Bubble that shows short films for free, and a live Dragone show opening next year as a permanent fixture. In Cotai, however, several developments have been stalled thanks to the global economic downturn. One of them is Macao Studio City, another “integrated” entertainment and hotel concept that is set to eventually include a Playboy Mansion.

The Cotai area is surreal, but then most of Macau has been that way for a long time. information: www.cityofdreamsmacau.com, www.hardrockhotels.com, www.dragone.be, www.macaostudiocity.com

cOLOAnE IsLAnD: Au naturelThe southern ‘island’ houses the famous Fernando’s restaurant and is a 20-minute drive from the Macau ferry terminal. A historic and peaceful place, Coloane has beaches, parks, golf, hiking, go-karts, a small zoo, a nature museum, a yacht club and, perhaps surprisingly, more than one restaurant.

This is a good area to be based when visiting Macau, except you’ll need to cope with the hapless taxi drivers.

Hotel options range from the five-star Westin Resort, with its 18-hole golf course and direct access to the black sands of nearby Hac Sa Beach, to the romantic and family-run Pousada de Coloane hotel on Cheoc-Van Beach. It has 30 rooms with balconies costing about a third of the Westin’s room charge.

For dining options, the Pousada has a Portuguese restaurant and you’ll find similar fare at Café Nga Tim and Espaco Lisboa. In Coloane Village, seek out Lord Stow’s Bakery or one of its cafes to enjoy some egg tarts, cheesecake and British-style breads and pastries. Note that the restaurants on Coloane often close before 10pm.

Hong Kong residents often visit Macau and head straight to Coloane, bypassing the glitzy casinos. It’s a lovely place to spend a lazy afternoon or weekend. information: www.starwoodhotels.com (for Westin), www.hotelpcoloane.com.mo, www.lordstow.com

its massive gaming floor and Grand Canal Shoppes. The Macau Grand Prix, held every November, is a must-see and side bets are common. Less common is the sight of Macanese competitors in the event’s terrifying scooter races.

No doubt you will also see the main tourist sights, such as the St Paul’s Church ruins and Senado Square (while here, look for a basement coffee shop Singing Bean Cafe).

Top off a visit to Macau by doing something crazy, like a bungee jump off the Macau Tower. AJ Hackett runs an operation offering a variety of thrills – including the world’s highest jump at 233m. information: www.macautourism.gov.mo, www.grandlisboa.com, www.sands.com.mo, www.mgmgrandmacau.com, www.wynnmacau.com, www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo, www.venetianmacao.com, www.mjc.mo, www.ajhackett.com

MACAU

Taipa Island

CHINA

MacauInternational

Airport

Macau Peninsula

CHINA

Cotai Strip

Ka Ho Village

Coloane Village





EATING WELL IS SOMETHING that bankers and gamblers enjoy almost as much as making money, judging by the epicurean delights available in Hong Kong and Macau. Despite all that’s new or in the news when it comes to food and drink in these Special Administrative Regions of China, residents continue to find solace and synergy in the delicious morsels that originate from here.

Hunger for historyIn two cities seeing such rapid change and commercial (over)development, there’s a definite public yearning to maintain a grasp on what little heritage is left. Which brings us to dim sum, those delightful little portions of meat, seafood, vegetables, intestines, chicken feet and anything else on hand, that will tempt, tickle or trample the taste buds.

Tastes:

Carnivores and vegetarians will smile, but smokers and outdoor lovers may frown when it comes to ingesting the Pearl River Delta’s world-class, award-winning and heart-

warming local and international fare, as GLEn WATsOn reports

ABOVE: Making dumplings, to be cooked in bamboo steamers

OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP: Har gow, or shrimp dumplings

who react to seafood. Pork is often combined with shrimp, for example. It is best to go with someone who can read Chinese characters and speak Cantonese. Often there are order slips to fill out or a trolley will have signs indicating the contents within its metal walls or pile of bamboo steamers. You may get lucky and be seated next to an English-speaking local offering to help you (and no doubt trying to make you gnaw the skin off chicken feet, which aren’t so bad). At the very least, the point-and-eat method usually works, too.

Finally, some suggestions for a dim sum deflowering: order some heung pin cha (jasmine tea) to go with siu mai (pork and shrimp dumpling), har gow (shrimp dumpling), char siu bao (barbecue pork bun), ngau yuk (beef balls). Then for dessert try ma lai go (steamed sponge cake).

Hong Kong• Luk Yu Tea House 24-26 stanley st, Central,

tel: +852 2523 5464

It’s as traditional as you can get at this historic

place

• Lung King Heen Four seasons Hotel, 8 Finance

st, Central, tel: +852 3196 8888

Contemporary and traditional dim sum, in a

Michelin-three-star eatery with a great view of

Victoria Harbour

• Dragon-i uG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham

st, Central, tel: +852 3110 1222

Contemporary dim sum lunch buffet at the

city’s trendiest restaurant/bar

• Dim Sum Gourmet G/F, 108 Tsat Tsz Mui Rd,

North point, tel: +852 2811 1366

Health-conscious and family-run shop that uses

vegetable oil, lean pork, little salt and no MSG

• Tim Ho Wun G/F, phase 2, Tsui Yuen Mansion, 2-

20 Kwong Wa st, Mong Kok, tel: +852 2332 2896

Run by the former dim sum chef at Lung King

Heen, Four Seasons Hong Kong

• Yan Toh Heen InterContinental Hotel,

18 salisbury Rd, Tsim sha Tsu, Kowloon,

tel: +852 2313 2323

The sum of These Parts

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Roughly translated, dim sum means touch your heart, or little heart, and is like Japanese sushi – except the pieces are cooked, usually by steam. The Canton region of South China is where dim sum originates; Hong Kong and Macau are where it shines.

follow your stomachDim sum can be found everywhere, from three-Michelin-star restaurants to mom-and-pop shops and convenience stores. In Hong Kong, it’s popular to go for traditional dim sum at places like City Hall in Central (a five-minute walk east from the Airport Express station). Metal trolleys whiz around a loud room packed full of tables that can seat people by the dozen (at least). Forget about cosy teahouses, large dim sum places are borderline nuthouse and great fun.

For contemporary dim sum,

the trendy nightspot Dragon-i on Wyndham St above Lan Kwai Fong has a daily lunch buffet (about US$19).

Time Out Hong Kong magazine food editor Angie Wong, who also co-edited the Zagat restaurant guide for Hong Kong, recommends Tim Ho Wun in Mong Kok, Kowloon. It is owned by the former dim sum chef at Michelin three-star restaurant Lung King Heen at Four Seasons Hong Kong hotel in Central. Tim Ho Wun has excellent dim sum and is cheap and cheerful, Wong says. “There’s no fuss, no views and no napkins.” But there can be long queues.

In Macau, since you’ll probably be near the two flashy Lisboa hotels at some point, go for dim sum at The Eight (Grand Lisboa) or Tim’s Kitchen (Lisboa Hotel). Lua Azul in the iconic Macau Tower is also recommended.

Tummy tea-sersThe term for going to eat dim sum is yum cha, which means drinking tea. The story goes that as teahouses became popular, so did the need for some nibbles. Centuries later, this dining experience has spread around the world and any Chinatown worth its salty soy sauce will have at least a few places serving dim sum. Hong Kong and Macau have hundreds, possibly thousands, of dim sum outlets open from sunrise until mid-afternoon or, increasingly, late evening. The popular teas are the earthy pu-er or lighter heung pin (jasmine).

People with food allergies should avoid dim sum, particularly those

An elegant and highly acclaimed

restaurant serving traditional dim sum

at lunch

macau • Lua Azul Macau Tower, Largo da Torre

de Macau, tel: +853 8988 8700

Those in the know say the traditional

dim sum here is the best in town

• The Eight Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida

de Lisboa, tel: +853 2803 7788

A bit formal, but the food is very good

• Tim’s Kitchen Lisboa Hotel, Avenida

de Lisboa, tel: +853 8803 3682

This tiny venue serves an amazing

variety of dim sum

• Hero Chinese Restaurant shop 004

Amsterdam, Fisherman’s Wharf,

Avenida da Amizade e Avenida

Dr, sun Yat-sen, tel: +853 2872 8807

This well-known Sichuan restaurant

chain also serves traditional dim sum

WHERE TO GO fOR DIm sum In...





In BRIEf: Since the ’97 handover, the group of islands that make up Hong Kong has been through a lot (SARS, bird flu, Asian and global economic downturns) and yet it continues to thrive as a business centre. It’s fast paced and international in its make-up and outlook. It’s transparent, has income tax rates sitting below 20% and is highly efficient. There is no sales tax and corruption and bribery are serious offences. It is densely populated with seven million citizens and full of skyscrapers, but there is an abundance of green space. Air pollution and water quality remain concerns.

DIsTAncE: Chek Lap Kok Airport on Lantau Island is 40km from the central business district, on Hong Kong Island. Getting to the CBD takes about 25 minutes on the Airport Express train (US$13). A taxi (US$45) to Central in the CBD takes about 40 minutes.

ORIEnTATIOn: Central is the main business district and home to Lan Kwai Fong and SoHo bar and restaurant areas. The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre is two subway stops (about 2km) to the east, in Wanchai. Victoria Harbour separates Hong Kong Island from Kowloon.

sLEEP: the Grand hyatt in Wanchai has more than 500 rooms, many with harbour views. It has an awesome outdoor pool area and is connected to the convention centre. 1 Harbour Rd, tel: +852 2588 1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com

Over in Kowloon, the peninsula offers

the best of the best. The afternoon tea set in the lobby is a must-do. A fleet of Rolls-Royce cars is at your service, too. Salisbury Rd, tel: +852 2920 2888, www.peninsula.com

EAT: Bo innovation is the brainchild of Michelin two-star “Demon Chef” Alvin Leung. His small “X-treme Chinese” creations are molecular, marvellous and even mischievous at times. Try the chef’s set dinner menu, which features a dozen or so dishes. 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnson Rd, Wanchai, tel: +852 2850 8371, www.boinnovation.com

aqua restaurant towers above The Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsu (TST) and thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows it has impressive views of Hong Kong Island. The Aqua Group also serves food and drink aboard the Aqua Luna red-sail Chinese junk in the harbour. 29/F & 30/F, One Peking Rd, tel: +852 3427 2288, www.aqua.com.hk

PLAY: If you don’t want to do the usual “eat and party” in Lan Kwai Fong, SoHo or Wanchai then maybe you’d prefer a night of shopping amid the hustle and bustle of crowded Causeway Bay or mong Kok. Shop until midnight at the surreal Temple Street night market in Jordan (one MTR stop above TST).

sPA: the spa at Four Seasons Hong Kong has a brilliant outdoor pool area, which puts it slightly ahead of the many top-notch spas in the city. The Spa’s organic product line, ila, is sourced ethically and is combined with music, mantras and the

therapist’s healing hands. Tel: +852 3196 8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong

DRInK: Try to get a member to invite you to the historic foreign Correspondents’ Club beside Lan Kwai Fong. The main bar is huge and the smaller jazz bar downstairs often has live music. 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central, www.fcchk.org

sHOP: The ifC mall in Central (above Airport Express and beside Exchange Square) is a convenient place to meet up, shop, eat, drink, catch a film or do business over lunch or dinner. 8 Finance St, Central, www.ifc.com.hk

DAY TRIP: Take the 30-minute train across the border to shenzhen for cheap shopping, food and drink. Check if you need a China visa first. China Travel Service can quickly arrange visas and tours. www.ctshk.com

KIDs In TOW: ocean park in Aberdeen is thriving despite the arrival of Hong Kong Disneyland on Lantau Island. It’s fun and educational and has included new attractions to meet demand. Be sure to visit the giant pandas. www.oceanpark.com.hk

cOncIERGE TIP: Victoria peak (aka The Peak) offers the best views of the city. Catch the Peak Tram or a taxi (US$6.50) to get up there.

READ: A Modern History of Hong Kong by Steve Tsang; Asian Godfathers: Money and Power in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia by Joe Studwell.

City GuideHong Kong

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DAY TRIP: If you have a China visa, you can walk over to the mainland city of Zhuhai for the day or a few nights. It’s not an expensive place and Bar Street is good fun, with several dining options, live bands and flair bartenders who juggle bottles as well as flaming objects.

KIDs In TOW: If the kids are all played out after visiting macau tower, spend some quiet time at one of the many parks or beaches, or go to the quite interesting maritime museum located across from the A-Ma Temple near A Lorcha restaurant. www.macautower.com.mo, www.museumaritimo.gov.mo

cOncIERGE TIP: The best views are from 338m Macau Tower. Another option is to walk or take the cable car up to Guia hill, the highest point in Macau, for panoramic views in a garden setting.

READ: Strolling in Macau. A Visitor’s Guide to Macau, Taipa and Coloane by Steve Bailey; Roll the Bones: The History of Gambling by David Schwartz.

In BRIEf: Gambling in Macau used to be a rather shabby pastime, but the arrival of the Vegas-style glitz and glamour has brought with it large, bright, open and luxurious gaming halls with shopping, eating, sleeping and entertainment centres. The trickle-on effect created boom times in Macau, tempered slightly by the global economy and a tightening of visa approvals for mainland punters. It’s still a fun place to visit, even if you don’t gamble. As for doing business, use caution and be prepared for frustration. Things don’t happen here as quickly as Hong Kong.

DIsTAncE: The Macau ferry and heliport terminal is within the main city, but you’ll still want to catch a taxi or hotel shuttle bus when you arrive. The Venetian runs its Cotai Jet Hong Kong/Macau ferry service to Taipa, which is also where the airport is located.

ORIEnTATIOn: Macau is divided into three sections: the City Centre in the north and the Taipa and Coloane islands due south (about 5km and 10km away, and connected by roads and bridges). The business district is in the centre. Hotels, bars and restaurants abound in all three areas.

sLEEP: Macau and Zhuhai holiday inn hotels are reasonably priced InterContinental Group properties. Holiday Inn Macau, 82-86 Rua de Pequim, City Centre, tel: +853 2878 3333, www.ichotelsgroup.com

EAT: It’s hard to put one Macanese restaurant above the others, but in this case the quality of food, great service, low

prices and abundant seating make ristaurante Litoral a great choice. It’s just a few doors down from the equally good but more intimate a Lorcha. Macanese owner/chef Manuela Ferreira is said to use family recipes that go back at least 100 years. 261-A & 289 Rua do Almiirante Sergio, tel: +853 2896 7878 & 2831 3193 (respectively)

PLAY: Gamble, let it ride, c’mon lucky seven, hold ’em or fold ’em, baby needs a new pair of shoes. Once you satisfy that urge to place bets, head to the Venetian macao to check out the permanent Cirque du Soleil show Zaia. The hotel also attracts big-name live music and sporting events. www.venetianmacao.com

sPA: Rated as Asia’s best hotel spa by AsiaSpa mag, altira spa towers over Taipa with exquisite views of the City Centre. Treatments are invigorating and wet-spa facilities are spectacular. Altira Macau Hotel, tel: +853 2886 8886, www.altiramacau.com

DRInK: A great place to start the night is the chic Cinnebar in the Wynn Macau. With indoor and outdoor seating, free snacks, cocktails and very comfy seats, you may not want to go anywhere else. Rua Cidade de Sintra, tel: +853 8986 3838, www.wynnmacau.com

sHOP: The Venetian Macao’s Grand Canal shoppes is a spectacular place, with a painted blue sky above the 9.3ha replica of Venice. It’s complete with canals and gondoliers and hundreds of high-end shops. www.venetianmacao.com

City GuideMacau

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cWT’s TIPs Of THE TRADE HONG KONG & MACAUTaxi: HK taxi drivers live off their tips,

especially if they just rent their cars and

don’t own them, so try to give them 10%.

Macau taxi drivers are generally terrible,

so only tip if you get a good one.

Tipping: A 10% service charge is

automatically added to the bill at most

restaurants and bars, very little of which

goes to your server. – Sheila Chan,head of Program Management and Traveller & Transaction Services, HK For more HK & Macau tips, see p68

Health & Medicine

Hong Kong + Macau Guide - Connect magazine