05/03/20231

Head of departmentDr.Kamal Sachdev

Presented By Dr. Vinod Kumar (M.D. Scholar)STATE AYURVEDIC COLLEGE & HOSPITAL, LUCKNOW

DEPARTMENT OF KAYA CHIKITSA

Cosmetology in Ayurveda

Cosmetics used in Ayurveda

Cosmetics as external beauty has gained a lot of attention & demand in today’s world. Every one wants to look beautiful & attractive. But this urge has not developed today in a completely safe manner . In Ayurvedic texts there are lot of aahar, aushad & vihar which were mentioned to enhance external beauty, such as varnya varga told by acharya Charak & rhinoplasty , romsanjanana etc. told by acharya Susruta. Apart from these there are many drugs & life style modifications told in texts to which are related to cosmetics.

According to Drugs and Cosmetics Acts (India) 1940 cosmetics may be defined as, any substances intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to human being for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness.

Cosmetology is the science of alternation of appearance and modification of beauty.

What is Cosmetics ?

According to Ayurveda happiness, gloom, sadness and relaxation are the aspects that are reflected by the face and by the body and can’t be disguised with cosmetics. In other words, Ayurveda emphasizes on external and internal beauty.

There’s a secret beauty or the third level of beauty in Ayurveda and is also known as the state of ‘self-realization’. It is said that a self realized person is eternally beautiful and does not need to use any external cosmetics or designer clothes.

Charaka narrated that beauty of female is enhanced by finding a suitable man, similarly a man can enhanced his appearance by getting with similar mind, psyche and liking with excellent quality partner.

Beauty

Facts in Ayurveda According to Ayurveda Human body functions

through various channel systems called “Srotamsi”, containing both microscopic and macroscopic structures.

These channels function as innumerable psycho-biological processes suprocesses such as enzyme production, neuron-transmitter secretion, hormonal intelligence, respiratory capacity and digestive assimilation/ elimination, immune power etc and responsible for wellness and beauty.

These act rhythmically and in concert with one another to perform complex decision-making regarding the supply of nutrients, filtration of toxins, excretion of wastes and much more.

These toxins or unprocessed metabolic deposits can cloud the normal psycho-biological cellular intelligence and loss body luster and beauty.

Health promotion, beauty management and healing in Ayurveda rely on freeing the body of aama (toxins), restoring cellular nutrition, facilitating complete elimination and re-establishing the balance of the doshas.

Diet and lifestyle are two things that help achieve good health and beauty.

The use of cosmetics was not only directed towards developing an attractive external appearance, but towards achieving merit (Punya), longevity with good health (Aayush and Aarogyam) and Happiness (Anand).

Continued……………..

Ayurveda determined beauty by

Prakriti (Body constitution), Sara (structural predominance), Sanhanana (compactness of body), Twak (skin completion), Pramana (Measurement) Dirghayu lakshana (symptom of long life).

Beauty Management through Ayurveda

Diet and nutritionMode of lifeThrough Social behaviorRasayana(Health promoting drugs or measures)

Mother wombDincharya RatricharyaRitucharya

Ayurveda cosmetology started from

Mother womb In charak sharira 8 several garbhopghatkara bhava of a pregnant women which causes abnormalities in the foetus have been told such as –

Pork diet – offspring having red eyes & very rough body hairs Fish diet – offspring with delayed closure of eyes or stiff eyes Sweet diet constantly – diabetes , obesity, dumb Sour diet – disease of skin & eyes Salty diet –early wrinkles or grey hairs or baldness

Indulgence in certain activities are prohibited during menstrual period of lady in susruta samhita. Their use also causes cosmetic disturbances. Such as –

Collirium – makes the child blind Weeping – defective vision Oil massage – leprosy Paring of nails – bad nails(kunakhi) Laughing too much – child with black colour teeth,

lips,palate & tongue Combing hairs – child will be bald

Due to dauhrid avamanana i.e. not fulfilling the desire of pregnant lady along with vata prakopa causes the progeny to be ---- kubja, kudi , khanja , vaaman, jada, vikritaksh, anaksh etc.

Dincharya cosmetic importanceAnjana & aschayotana

Clear & brightness of the eyes

Dhoompana Decreased foetid smell from nose & mouth,swarabheda , alopecia,grey hair & hair falling

Nasya One who practices nasya regularly is not affected by greying of hairs ,white hairs & hair falls . The hair grows abundantly & face becomes cheerful

Dantpawana & jihwanirlekhana

Removes foul smell from mouth

Mouth freshners Mouth freshners such as jaati, katuka, pooga,lavanga, kankola,tamboola ,kapoora ,ela have been described. These drugs along with sneha gandoosha help in healing cracked lips

Moordhin tail One who moistens his head daily with sneha does not suffer from headache,alopecia, greying of hairs, nor do his hair falls, hairs becomes firm rooted, long & black, sense organs become cheerful & face with pleasent glow

Tailabhyanga Body becomes firm with smooth skinned

Dincharya - cosmetic importance

Sharir parimarjana Alleviates foul smell, itiching & dirtSwachcha vastra dharana Enhances charm, fame, life span.Cleaning of feet & excretory orifices

Promotes intelligence,purity,longevity & destroys inauspiciousness & dirt

Chhaurkarma Nutritive , aphrodisiac ,life promoter & provides cleanliness & beautification

Continued dincharya…………

Ritu Charya

Hemant Massage, Anointing(Utsadan), oil massage on head, heated rooms, sun bath.

Vasant Physical exercise, Udwartan, herbal smoking, gargling and collyrium . One should bath with warm water, and use paste of chandana and aguru on body.

Greeshma Applying chandana paste on body, and should be adorned with pearls and gems.

Varsha Rubbing, anointing, use fragrances and garlands and wear light and clean clothes.

Sharada Hansodaka should be used for bath, drinking and plunging(avagaha). Garlands of seasonal flowers, clean clothes, and moon rays in nights are recommended.

Ritu Charya

Specific Measures For Enhancement Of Different Aspects

Of Beauty Skin Care (Varnya) Hair Care (Kesya) Eye Care (Netra Prasadana) Herbs For Acne(Yuvana Pidika Nasana) Foot Care (Vipadikahara Yoga) Deodorants/Perfumes (gandha Dravya) Mouth fresheners Breast Growth Enhancer (Stana Vriddhikar And

Stana Dadhyakar Yoga) Removal Of Post Pregnancy Stretch Marks (Kikkisa

Hara Yoga) Cosmetic Correction Of Scar Tissue Sandhana vidhi (Cosmetic Surgical Correction)

Skin Care (Varnya) Skin care procedures forming the daily routine described in

Ayurvedic literature consist of numerous formula involving herb and other Natural ingredients.

They were used as external application in the form of packs, oils, herbal waters powders etc.

Application of these as pastes has been classified in to several kind based on the temperature duration and thickness of application, effect of the application for healing beautyfying anti agging etc.

According to Ayurveda the health of the skin is dependent on Rakta dhatu, Ojas, and Pitta dosha. Any dearangement in these factors leads to a cosmetic ill health.

Amongst the Fifty Dashemanis told in Charak samhita, Varnya Dashemani is one.Varnya is the group of drugs, which have complexion promoting action.

In Sushrut Samhita Eladi Gana is also a complexion promoting group of herbs.

After screening the pharmacology of the drugs told in this dashemani we find all these drugs are rakta prasadakara, Ojo vardhak and pitta shamak. 

Varnya Mahakashaya1. Sveta chandana(Santalum album)2. Nagkeshara (Mesua ferrea)3. Padmaka(Prunus cerasoides)4. Usheera (Vetiveria zizanioides)5. Madhuk a(Glycyrrhiza glabra)6. Manjistha(Rubia cordifolia)7. Sariva(Hamidesmus indicus)8. Payasya(Ipomoea digitata)9. Sita(Cynodon dactylon)10. Lata( ) In Indian tradition, use of various ointments

(lepa) is in customs. Certain herbs and pulses are grinded with simple addition of milk, water or rose water and a face pack is made for promoting complexion.

Krishni Karana

means ‘Blackening of the white scar tissue’ by use of Bhallataka oil(Semicarpus anacardium)mixed with ash of hoofs of domestic and marshy animals.

Pandu Karma means ‘whitening of the black scar tissue’

by applying paste of Rohini fruit (Soymida febrifuga)with goat's milk or by applying powder of new earthen ware, roots of Vidula(Barringtonia acutangula) and sarja (Exudates of Vateria indica),Kasisa(Ferrous sulphate) and Madhuka (Madhuca indica) with honey.

Research trends The health of the following three dhatus (types of

body tissue) are especially reflected in the skin: Nutritional fluid(Rasa), Blood (Rakta) ,Muscle (Mamsa).

Rasa supports all the body tissues, particularly keeping the skin healthy,

Rakta in association with liver function, helps detoxify the skin of toxins.

Mamsa provides firmness to the skin.

An effective Ayurvedic anti-aging cosmeceutical should provide support to all these three areas.

Anti-aging treatment includes two types of therapies

Urjaskara (promotive) and Vyadhihara (curative).

According to Ayurveda, a number of factors determine skin health and youthfulness. These include -

Proper moisture balance (Kapha in balance), Effective functioning of the metabolic mechanisms that

coordinate all the various chemical and hormonal reactions of the skin (Pitta in balance)

Efficient circulation of blood and nutrients to the different layers of the skin (Vata in balance).

For vata skin, to stay youthful, skin care products that can nourish and rehydrate the skin should be used, otherwise it may be susceptible to wrinkles and premature aging. Warm oil self-massage and all natural moisturizers may help.

For pitta skin, good sunscreens for protection from the sun, and good facial skin oils should be used daily. Tanning treatments and therapies that expose delicate sensitive skin for extended periods of time to steam/heat should be avoided.

For kapha skin, a daily warm oil massage and cleansing of skin with gentle exfoliates should be performed.

Nutricosmetics Nutricosmetics is the term often used for

nutritional cosmetics and relates to ‘eat and drink products in co-ordination with usual skin care routine for better overall results’.

These orally ingested functional products promote youthfulness by targeting and reversing specific physiological processes normally associated with aging, such as the irreversible breakdown of cells and tissues.

Anti-oxidants used in such nutricosmetics or oral anti-aging products include vitamins A, C and E, fatty acids

like alpha-lipoic acid, and botanicals such as green tea.

Hair Care (Kesya)

Kesya is the group of herbs and animal products, which have beneficial action on the hair in terms of their length, strength and texture.e.g.

Bhringaraj(Eclipta alba) Narikela (Cocos nucifera) Til (Sesamum indicum) Nilini (Indigofera tinctoria) Hasti danta masi(Ash of elephant ivory),

Depilatory Agent (Lomshatan)

Powderd conch shell 2 part + Orpiment 1 part These should be pouched with sour gruel(shukt).

Oil of Bhallatak mixed with Latex of Snuhi.

Ash of kadali & Dirghvrint bhasm, Orpiment Salt & seed of shami.

Pounded with cold water.

Romsanjanan

Ash of elephant tusk & Rasanjan mixed together.

Ash of skin, hair, hoof, horn, & bone of quadrupeds is applied to already an ointed with oil.

Kashisa, young leaf Naktmala pounded them with the juice of Kapittha.

Hair Dye(Kesa Ranjana)

Hair dyes are very popular since ancient times. Following are well described in Ayurveda

Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba) SikaKai (Acacia concinna) Ritha (Sapindus trifoliatus) Nilini (Indigofera tinctoria) Amalaki (Emblica officinalis)

Eye Care (Netra Prasadana)

Eyes are very important from cosmetic point of view and in Ayurveda there is mention of use of 5 types of collyrium (anjana) to increase the beauty of it.

Many types of chakshushya dravya describe in ayurveda.Mamira (Coptis teeta)Piyaranga (Thalictrum foliosum)Chakshushya (Casia absus)Katak (Strychnos)

Herbs For Acne(Yuvana Pidika Nasana)

Vaca (Acorus calamus), Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), Saindhava (Rock salt) and Sarsapa (Brassica compestris).

Dhaniya (Coriandrum sativum), Vaca (Acorus calamus), Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa) and Kustha (Saussurea lappa).

Narikel manjari (Twig of Cocos nucifera) and Vata patra (Ficus benghalensis).

Gorocana (Bovine gall stone/Bezoar) and black pepper.

Salmali Kantak (Thorn of Salmalia malabarica).

Post inflammatory scars also get cleared by them.

Vaman karm is a best treatment of Yuvana Pidika.

Foot Care (Vipadikahara Yoga)

Vipadika (Rhagades)is a disease of palm and sole in which there are many crack marks along their edges. These are effectively treated by vipadikahara taila (an ointment).

Dandruff (Darunak) It is a type of dermatitis (Dry eczema) mostly

found in on the scalp, thin mica like scaling (exfoliation) on scratching with acute burning and itching sensation are found. Papules are rough and itching having no discharge.

Tt- An emultion prepared with the oil of Sandalwood

and lemon juice, apply 2-3 time in a week, followed by head bath with herbal shampo.

A past prepare from Haritaki churn and Amlaphalasthi with milk shuld be applied .

Deodorants/Perfumes (gandha Dravya)

Perfumes were also used in cosmetics and beauty aids.

Medicinal values of many perfumes were well known to ancient Indians and were used in both rituals and to treat diseases.

Medicated fumigation (dhupan) was an advanced method for medicinal purposes.

  There are certain herbs, which are used for fragrance

and to avoid foul body odour e.gSveta candana (Santalum album)Kumkuma(Crocus sativus)Distilled products of Rose, Jasmine(Mongra) etc.

These are applied in the form of paste (Aalepa) or Arka (Perfumes) over the body.

Mouth freshener-

Chewing betel leaves along with fragrant material like nutmeg, mace, etc. (Tambulam) was used with a view to rendering mouth clean and fragrant.

In Charak Samhita Sutra 5/76-78

Breast Growth Enhancer (Stana Vriddhikar And Stana

Dadhyakar Yoga) There are few herbal formulations

described in Ayurveda, which are specifically used for proper development of breast and tightening of it; e.g.

Methi modakaSaubhagya sunthiMundi tailam and Munditail nasyamMaricadyam tailamDadimadyam tailamKsirparni tailam

Removal Of Post Pregnancy Stretch Marks (Kikkisa Hara

Yoga) Post pregnancy marks are also a very embarrassing

problem for women and to remove it Ayurveda describes few pastes for local application;e.g.

Sveta candana (Santalum album) and mrinala (Nelumbium nuciferum)

Dhataki (Woodfordia fruticosa), Sirisa (Albizia lebbeck), Sarsapa (Brassica campestris) and Usira (Vetiveria zizanioides)

Irrigation of breast and abdomen by decoction of Patola (Tricosanthes dioica), Nimba (Azadirachta indica), Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia) and Surasa (Ocimum sanctum).

Cosmetic Correction Of Scar Tissue

The healing of wound always takes place by formation of scar tissue, and some times this scar tissue may lead to bad look when formed over exposed body parts. Susruta propounded eight unique measures to combat this as given below:

Utsadana Avsadana Mridu karana Daruni Karana Krishni Karana Pandu KaranaRoma Sanjanana Roma Satana

Sandhana vidhi (Cosmetic Surgical Correction)

Sushruta, for the first time, explained the techniques of surgical correction (Plastic surgery) of injured and amputated body parts like nose, ear and lips,and the cosmetic correction of developmentally malformed.

Herb Extracts for CosmeticBotanical Name/Part Used Common Name Form UseAcacia concinna pods Shikakai Powder Shampoo's

SoapsAcorus calamus rhizome Sweet Flag Powder/Paste Aromatic,

Dusting Powders, Skin Lotions

Allium Sativum bulbs Garlic Powder/ Paste Promotes Skin healing

Aloe Vera Leaf Aloe Powder / Paste Radio-protective Moisturizer, Sunscreen

Alpinia galanga rhizome Galanga Powder/Paste Aromatic, In dusting Powders

Avena sativa fruit Oat Powder / Paste Skin tonic / Moisturizer

Azadirachta indica leaves Neem Powder / Paste Tooth Pastes, Soaps, Shampoo's

Balsamodendron myrrha gum Myrrh Powder/Paste Soaps / Shampoo's

Calendula officinalis flow ers Marigold Paste Promotes skin care

Cedrus deodara wood Deodar Powder/Paste Shampoo's/Soaps

Centella Asiatica plant Gotu Kola Powder/Paste Wound Healing

Cichorium intybus seed Chicory Powder/Paste Relieves sore eyes/Clears Skin of

blemishesCitrus aurantium peel Orange Paste Skin

creams, Soaps, ShampoosCitrus lemon peel Lemon Powder Heals skin,

Prevents Hair LossCoriandrum sativum seed Coriander Powder Anti-

inflammatory

Botanical Name/Part Used Common Name Form UseCrocus sativus stigma Saffron Liquide Post bath massageCurcuma longa rhizome Turmeric Powder/Paste Skin creams & lotions Antibacterial Curcuma zedoaria rhizome Zedoary Powder/Paste Antibacterial, AromaticDaucus carota seeds Carrot Oil Natural source of Vitamin AEclipta alba plant Bhringraj Powder/Paste Shampoo'sGlycyrrhiza glabra root Liquorice Powder/Paste Anti-inflammatoryHedychium spicatum rhizome Kapurkachir Oil Hair OilsHibiscus rosa sinensis flowers China rose Paste Shampoo'sIris florentina root Orris Powder Additive to dusting PowdersLaw sonia alba leaves Heena Powder/Paste In Shampoo'sMatricaria chamomilla flowers Chamomile Powder/Paste Hair Tonic/ Relieves sore LimbsMoringa oleifera seed Benjamin Oil Hair Oils, Suntan LotionPrunus serotina bark Wild cherry bark Powder In shampoo's Pterocarpus santalinus bark Red sandal wood Powder/Paste In Skin creamsRubia cordifolia root Manjistha Powder/Paste Wound HealingSantalum album Sandal Wood Powder/Paste In skin Lotion'sSapindus trifoliatus fruit cortex Soap wort Powder Natural DetergentTriticum sativum germ Wheat germ Oil Skin lotions, A natural sourc

of Vit

THANK YOU