Cosmetology and Nails

Cosmetology and NailsReviewed by

Hala Aly IbrahimLecturer Of Dermatology & Venereology

Reviewed by

Hala Aly IbrahimLecturer Of Dermatology & Venereology

Healthy Nails Anatomy & Physiology

Healthy Nails Anatomy & Physiology

Nail HistologyNail Histology

Nail Plate Growth Nail Plate Growth

Complete growth for the nail plate to replace itself from the time it is formed at the root until it reaches beyond the finger tip needs 5-7 months.

Complete growth for the nail plate to replace itself from the time it is formed at the root until it reaches beyond the finger tip needs 5-7 months.

Nail RegenerationNail Regeneration

If: Nail plate is injured & falls off

replaced at normal growth rate. Nail matrix is destroyed nail plate

won’t grow. Nail matrix is damaged distorted

newly growing nail plate.

If: Nail plate is injured & falls off

replaced at normal growth rate. Nail matrix is destroyed nail plate

won’t grow. Nail matrix is damaged distorted

newly growing nail plate.

a. The Shape of the Nailb. Nail texturec. Nail Colourd. Periungual tissue

a. The Shape of the Nailb. Nail texturec. Nail Colourd. Periungual tissue

I - Factors Determining Nail BeautyI - Factors Determining Nail Beauty

a. The Shape of the Naila. The Shape of the Nail

b. The texture of the nailb. The texture of the nail

c. Nail Colour c. Nail Colour

Causes of nail discolorationCauses of nail discoloration

External factors. Degenerative changes. Drugs. Systemic diseases.

External factors. Degenerative changes. Drugs. Systemic diseases.

d. Periungual Tissued. Periungual Tissue

Chemicals & repeated wetting & drying should be avoided

Cutting the nails [(wet) - magic ratio] Shaping the nails (dry) Splits and cracks & hang nails Nail health supplements

Chemicals & repeated wetting & drying should be avoided

Cutting the nails [(wet) - magic ratio] Shaping the nails (dry) Splits and cracks & hang nails Nail health supplements

a. General health care measures

a. General health care measures

i. Instruments: Tools Sanitary practice:

Sanitation Disinfection Sterilization

i. Instruments: Tools Sanitary practice:

Sanitation Disinfection Sterilization

b. Nail Care Itemsb. Nail Care Items

InstrumentsInstruments CosmeticsCosmetics

ii. Nail Cosmetics: Nail Cosmetic Products

Nail polishes Polish removers Basecoats & topcoats Nail Hardeners Conditioners & Buffering creams Cuticle remover

Artificial nails

ii. Nail Cosmetics: Nail Cosmetic Products

Nail polishes Polish removers Basecoats & topcoats Nail Hardeners Conditioners & Buffering creams Cuticle remover

Artificial nails

Artificial NailsArtificial Nails

These are used as a substitute for nails in individuals desiring long attractive nails, but whose own nails are abnormal in appearance or break easily.

Types: Sculptured Preformed Nail mending or wrapping kits Gel Systems

These are used as a substitute for nails in individuals desiring long attractive nails, but whose own nails are abnormal in appearance or break easily.

Types: Sculptured Preformed Nail mending or wrapping kits Gel Systems

Sculptured Artificial NailsSculptured Artificial Nails

Replace deteriorated nail plate Lengthen & decorate normal nail plate The polymer is clear so can be used for

men

Replace deteriorated nail plate Lengthen & decorate normal nail plate The polymer is clear so can be used for

men

Preformed Plastic Nails

Preformed Plastic Nails

Used as full nails or tips Fixed with adhesives e.g. cyanoacrylate Need some normal nail for attachment Don’t leave for more than 2 days at a

time

Used as full nails or tips Fixed with adhesives e.g. cyanoacrylate Need some normal nail for attachment Don’t leave for more than 2 days at a

time

Nail Mending or Wrapping Kits

Nail Mending or Wrapping Kits

Act as a splint for a partially fractured nail plateAct as a splint for a partially fractured nail plate

Gel NailsGel Nails

Acrylic-based material used as caps over natural nails of persons having trouble growing their own nails (chipping, cracking & peeling) e.g. nail biters

Acrylic-based material used as caps over natural nails of persons having trouble growing their own nails (chipping, cracking & peeling) e.g. nail biters

Adverse Effects of Nail Cosmetic Procedures

Adverse Effects of Nail Cosmetic Procedures

a. Nail instrument damage: Misuse of nail instruments is

potentially far more damaging to the nail than are many cosmetic preparations. Traumatic injuries may cause not only infection but also chipping, splitting, breaking, onycholysis and even Beau’s lines

a. Nail instrument damage: Misuse of nail instruments is

potentially far more damaging to the nail than are many cosmetic preparations. Traumatic injuries may cause not only infection but also chipping, splitting, breaking, onycholysis and even Beau’s lines

b. Reactions to cosmetics applied to the nails: Nail polish:

Nail polish dermatitis: Dermatitis of allergic origin can appear in any part of the body accesible to the nails, but usually with no signs in the nail apparatus except for the periungual area in some cases.

b. Reactions to cosmetics applied to the nails: Nail polish:

Nail polish dermatitis: Dermatitis of allergic origin can appear in any part of the body accesible to the nails, but usually with no signs in the nail apparatus except for the periungual area in some cases.

Diagnostic skin patch testing with a battery of nail enamel components should be performed without occlusive covering, or with dry enamel film to avoid false positive reactions from the solvents.

Diagnostic skin patch testing with a battery of nail enamel components should be performed without occlusive covering, or with dry enamel film to avoid false positive reactions from the solvents.

Nail plate staining: Deeper shades of red

and brown nail enamel may cause mild staining of nail keratin. This is self-limiting as new nail growth appears. The stain can be avoided by using a basecoat.

Nail plate staining: Deeper shades of red

and brown nail enamel may cause mild staining of nail keratin. This is self-limiting as new nail growth appears. The stain can be avoided by using a basecoat.

Granulation of nail keratin In persons who apply fresh

coats of enamel on top of old ones for several weeks. It results in superficial NP friability. It may be avoided by keeping the nail free of cosmetic agents for a few days.

Granulation of nail keratin In persons who apply fresh

coats of enamel on top of old ones for several weeks. It results in superficial NP friability. It may be avoided by keeping the nail free of cosmetic agents for a few days.

Onycholysis Nail enamel and

related products reduce but do not eliminate vapour exchange from nail bed to the environment rarely causing onycholysis.

Onycholysis Nail enamel and

related products reduce but do not eliminate vapour exchange from nail bed to the environment rarely causing onycholysis.

Nail polish removers: Acetone, ethylacetate or similar organic

solvents dehydrate the NP and decrease corneocyte adhesion, contributing to brittleness. They also remove lipids from the NP & cause inflammation of the paronychial area. Rarely, irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, blistering and onycholysis may occur.

Nail polish removers: Acetone, ethylacetate or similar organic

solvents dehydrate the NP and decrease corneocyte adhesion, contributing to brittleness. They also remove lipids from the NP & cause inflammation of the paronychial area. Rarely, irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, blistering and onycholysis may occur.

Artificial Nails: Spontaneous separation of

the natural NP from its bed Peeling and transverse

splitting of the nail Contact dermatitis

resulting in onycholysis and subungual hyperkeratosis

May potentiate infectious complications

Artificial Nails: Spontaneous separation of

the natural NP from its bed Peeling and transverse

splitting of the nail Contact dermatitis

resulting in onycholysis and subungual hyperkeratosis

May potentiate infectious complications

SummarySummary

The art of nail care is a common demand among most health oriented individuals.

It is a mistake for the physician to view a patient’s complaint of unattractive nails as too trivial for medical consideration.

The proper understanding of nail anatomy & physiology is a baseline request.

The art of nail care is a common demand among most health oriented individuals.

It is a mistake for the physician to view a patient’s complaint of unattractive nails as too trivial for medical consideration.

The proper understanding of nail anatomy & physiology is a baseline request.

In addition, a sound insight on conventional nail care procedures as well as nail care products will help to overcome any unappealing cosmetic defect.

In addition, a sound insight on conventional nail care procedures as well as nail care products will help to overcome any unappealing cosmetic defect.

Dystrophic, absent or diseased nails (particularly were only few are involved, can be improved cosmetically with nail care regimen, added colors or artificial nails.

Dermatologists are well advised to recognize such means for achieving a psychologic lift in their patients.

Dystrophic, absent or diseased nails (particularly were only few are involved, can be improved cosmetically with nail care regimen, added colors or artificial nails.

Dermatologists are well advised to recognize such means for achieving a psychologic lift in their patients.

Factors causing cosmetic nail derangement Developmental and hereditary nail disorders Physical or chemical trauma Diseases

Systemic Cutaneous Psychological Tumours

Medications Topical Systemic

Factors causing cosmetic nail derangement Developmental and hereditary nail disorders Physical or chemical trauma Diseases

Systemic Cutaneous Psychological Tumours

Medications Topical Systemic

Infection of nail unitInfection of nail unit

1.Nail fold (paronychia): Acute: Bacterial : (staph),

Viral: herpetic whitlow honey-comb) Chronic: (Candida with superadded bacteria)

2.nail plate (onychia)

1.Nail fold (paronychia): Acute: Bacterial : (staph),

Viral: herpetic whitlow honey-comb) Chronic: (Candida with superadded bacteria)

2.nail plate (onychia)

Tumours Tumours

Benign:• Warts.• Myxoid cyst (synovial ).• Subungual exostosis.• Nevus Junctional N. in matrix….band).• Pyogenic granuloma.• Fibromata (tuberous sclerosis).• Glomus tumour

Benign:• Warts.• Myxoid cyst (synovial ).• Subungual exostosis.• Nevus Junctional N. in matrix….band).• Pyogenic granuloma.• Fibromata (tuberous sclerosis).• Glomus tumour

MalignantMalignant SCC

Malignant melanoma usually follows pigmented nail band.

Lymphoma

SCC

Malignant melanoma usually follows pigmented nail band.

Lymphoma