Textile spinning

Prepared by TANVEER AHMED 1

TEXTILE SPINNING

Process Quality Control

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TEXTILE SPINNINGThe process or processes used in the production of single yarns or of fabrics generated directly from polymer.

1. Yarn from Staple Fiber: The formation of a yarn by a combination of drawingor drafting and twisting prepared strands of fibers,

suchas roving.

2. Filament Yarn: In the spinning of manufactured filaments, fiber-forming substances in the plastic or molten state, or in solution, are forced through the fine orifices in a metallic plate called a spinneret, or jet, at a controlled rate. The solidified filaments are drawn-off by rotating rolls, orgodets, and wound onto bobbins or pirns. There are several methods of spinning manufactured. Dry, Gel, Wet, Melt, Reaction and Phase Separation Spinning.

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Spinning Process Diagram

1. RAW MATERIAL

2. BLOW ROOM

3. CARDING

4. DRAWING

5. COMBING

6. FINISHING

7. ROVING

8. RING

9. WINDING

RAW MATERIAL

BLOW ROOM

CARDING

DRAWING

COMBING

FINISHING

ROVING

RING

WINDING

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Quality of raw material can be defined in various terms, as we studies Garvin categories quality into various terms.

1. Transcendent (product is superior to all competing products in every

way possible.)

2. Product based

3. User based

4. Manufacturing based

5. Value based

Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL

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Garvin Eight attributes for quality also can implies in textile

1. Performance of Material / Product / Process

2. Features

3. Reliability

4. Conformance

5. Durability

6. Serviceability

7. Aesthetic

8. Perceived quality


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Textile raw material universally called Textile Fibers:

A unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basic element of fabrics and other textile structures.

A fiber is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width.

The term refers to units that can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting.

The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and luster.

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Fiber used as raw material for textile fabrics, are divided

(1), Animal Fibers, as wool, hair, silk;

(2), Vegetable Fibers, as cotton, linen, jute, hemp, ramie,

etc.;

(3), Mineral Fibers, as asbestos; and

(4), Artificial Fibers, as glass, metal threads, various

artificial silks, etc.;


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Quality control and Quality assurance for textile evaluated through Testing Process.

TEXTILE TESTING CAN BE DIVIDED INTO:

1- CHEMICAL TESTING

2- PHYSICAL TESTING

The textile engineer or technologist in the quality of a product by doing:

In –Process of Final Verification Visual Inspection Hand Appraisal Laboratory Testing and Quality ControlFor some tests, internationally recognized standards exist, such as : ASTM ISO ANSI AATCC etc.


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TEXTILE Fiber Testing:

100% cotton samples in the form of bale or opened and cleaned material (card mat).

Measurements

Micronaire

• Maturity Index

• UHML – Upper Half Mean Length

• UI – Uniformity Index

• SFI – Short Fiber Index

• Fiber Strength in g/Tex

• Elongation

• Moisture Content

• Color (Reflectance Rd, Yellowness +b) & Color Grade (USDA Upland, Pima, or regional

customized color chart)

• Trash (% Area, Trash Count) & Trash Grade (USDA)


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Measurements

Micronaire (Micro Grams Per Inch)


Measured by relating airflow resistance to the specific surface of fibers.

1 -------------- 3.1 Very fine

3.1 -------------- 3.9 fine

4.0 -------------- 4.9 medium

Above 6 Coarser

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Measurements

• Maturity IndexThe cotton fibre consists of cell wall and lumen. The maturity index is dependent upon the thickness of this cell wall.

COTTON Fiber Cross-Section

cotton=15000/ Ne x Mic


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• Maturity Index


Maturity( Maturity Coefficient)

Lumen Width / Wall Thickness

Mature(less 0.7) Less than 1

Half Mature (0.7 to 0.9)

Less than 2 More than 1

Immature (0.9 above)

More than 2

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• UHML – Upper Half Mean LengthFiber length is described as "the average length of the longer one-half of the fibers (upper half mean length)" This measure is taken by scanning a "beard " of parallel fibers through a sensing region. The beard is formed from the fibers taken from the sample, clasped in a holding clamp and combed to align the fibers. Typical lengths of Upland cottons might range from 0.79 to 1.36in.


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• UHML – Upper Half Mean Length


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• UI – Uniformity IndexLength uniformity or uniformity ratio is determined as " a ratio between the mean length and the upper half mean length of the fibers and is expressed as a percentage“

with the Fibrogram. The span lengths at given percentages of fibres areusually measured; the 2.5% span length is considered to correlate with the classer's staple length. From the 50% span length and the 2.5% span length.

a uniformity index can be calculated:


LENGTH UNIFORMITY

UNIFORMITY INDEX [%]

Very High >85High 83-85Intermediate 80-82Low 77-79Very Low <77

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QUALITY OF BLOW-ROOM

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OBJECTIVES OF BLOW-ROOM Opening Cleaning Blending Mixing

2-BLOW-ROOM Processes

Cleaning eff = (trash in – trash in lap) x 100

Trash in raw cottonCount = wt/lenth => like 0.0013 for 14 oz/yd

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2-BLOW-ROOM Processes

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OBJECTIVES OF CARD

1. Opening

2.Cleaning

3.Leveling (Parallelization)

4.Sliver formation

3-CARDING Processes

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3-CARDING Processes

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3-CARDING Processes Cleaning EfficiencySliver Count variationNeps (small knots or tangled fiber)

Fiber Hooks

According to an investigation by Morton and Yen in Manchester, it can be assumed that of the fibres in the web:

more than 50% have trailing hooks

about 15% have leading hooks

about 15% have double hooks

and less than 20% of the fibres have no hooks. Such fibre hooks, which effectively convert longer fibres to short fibres, cannot be permitted in the yarn. 11/8/2010


3-CARDING Processes

Reversal of the dispositions of hooks between the card and the comber.

C, card; D, sliver lap machine; E, ribbon lap machine; F, comber.

Reversal of the dispositions of hooks between the card and the ring spinning machine. H, roving frame

C, card;

GI, drawframe

GIl, drawframe IIH, roving frame

R, ring spinning machine

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DRAWING PROCESSES

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Drawing is an operation by which slivers are blended, doubled or leveled and by drafting reduced to proper sized sliver suitable of being fed to the simplex. Draw frame contributes less than 5% to the production cost of yam, however its influence on quality of yam. is significant. Draw frame process considerably influences the final product, as draw is last point of compensation for the elimination of errors produced by subsequent m/c.

4- Drawing Frame

IMPROVING EVENNESS

PARALLELIZATION

BLENDING

DUST REMOVAL

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5- Drawing Finisher Frame

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6- ROVING FRAME

A roving is a continuous fibrous strand drafted from a sliver and given cohesion by either inserting a small amount of twist or compacting the fibers with an oscillating apron. It is drafted and twisted to be spun into a yarn

FL-16, FL-100DRAFT RANGE = 7 TO 8

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.

6- ROVING FRAME

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7- RING FRAME

The ring spinning frame, commonly called the ring, is the conventional spinning system and it transforms the roving from the roving frame into spun yarn using the operations of:. Drawing. Twisting. Winding

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7- RING FRAMEDeviation of count

Variation of strength

Count variation

Elongation

Twist variation

Remaining disturbing thick and thin places

Direction of yarn twist

Remaining foreign fibers

Evenness

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7- RING FRAME

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Education

Textile spinning