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Apparel Textiles

Fabric PropertiesSweater

Sportswear

SleepwearSleepwear Underwear

Dress

Activewear

Sweater

Knitted Fabric for Apparel UseKnitted Fabric for Apparel Use

General Properties of Knitted Fabrics General Properties of Knitted Fabrics

Pilling (loose structure form pill easily)Pilling (loose structure form pill easily)

Snagging (loop caught by sharp object)Snagging (loop caught by sharp object)

Elastic (good shape retention)Elastic (good shape retention)

Fullness (soft and warm touch)Fullness (soft and warm touch)

Tight fit (good appearance, protection)Tight fit (good appearance, protection)

Extensible (up to 200%)Extensible (up to 200%)

Dimensional stability (shrinkage & skew)Dimensional stability (shrinkage & skew)Dress shirt Work jacket

Work shirtJeans Suit

Sleepwear Uniform

Woven Fabric for Apparel UseWoven Fabric for Apparel Use

General Properties of Woven Fabrics General Properties of Woven Fabrics

Tearing (compact structure may be torn easily)Tearing (compact structure may be torn easily)

Seam slippage (seam failure by yarn slippage )Seam slippage (seam failure by yarn slippage )

Firm (good appearance and drape well)Firm (good appearance and drape well)

Compact (down proof for thermal wear)Compact (down proof for thermal wear)

Tough (abrasion resistant, good protection)Tough (abrasion resistant, good protection)

High strength (over 100N/cm, durable)High strength (over 100N/cm, durable)

Stiffness (can be too stiff, fabric design can help )Stiffness (can be too stiff, fabric design can help )

Overview of Fabric Properties & Performance

Overview of Fabric Properties & Performance

DurabilityDurability

SafetySafety

FunctionalFunctional

MaintenanceMaintenanceComfortComfort

AppearanceAppearance

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Durabilitya. Strength: tensile, tear, bursting

b. Abrasion resistance: flat abrasion, flex abrasion, edge abrasion

c. Pilling resistance

a. Strength: tensile, tear, bursting

High tensile strength fabricHigh tensile strength fabric

High Sett High yarn strength

High twist High fibre strength

Durable & high performanceDurable & high performance

Longer fibre

Unstable structure

Harsh hand feel

More expensive e.g. Pima cotton

High inter-fibre friction

Low tear strength

b. Abrasion resistance: flat abrasion, flex abrasion, edge abrasion

Before abrasionBefore abrasion

Flat abraded areaFlat abraded area

Edge abraded areaEdge abraded area

c. Pilling resistance

Life cycle of Pills:Loose fibres on fabric surface (protruding fibres)Entanglement of loose fibres due to abrasionPill rubbered off due to breakage of rooting fibres

Pilling is the formation of little pills or entangled fibre ball clinging on fabric surface

Factors affecting pillingFibre properties:• Fibre rigidity (immature cotton has more pilling problem)• Fibre strength (affect the ease of pill off)

Yarn compactness:• Higher twist, less pilling• More compact yarn, less pilling (e.g. Worsted yarn is

better than woolen yarn)

Fabric structure:• More compact the fabric structure, lower pilling• Tightness factor

Pill Formation

0

200

400

600

800

0 2000 4000 6000

Number of rubs

Num

ber o

f pill

s AcrylicWoollenWorsted

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d. Drapeability

e. Yarn unevenness: neps, thick place, thin place,periodic fault

f. Crease recovery, texture, colour

AppearanceDrape is a fabric’s ability to form pleasing folds when bent under its own weight.

It is one of the most important aesthetic concept characteristics

It  is of  interest  in product development  as well  as consumer acceptanceIt  is of  interest  in product development  as well  as consumer acceptance

d. Drapeability

For curtain, drapes, and gathered skirts, bending is in only one direction. 

In many garments, exhibit a double curvature that requires bending in more than one direction. 

Under these conditions, the fabric must undergo shearing as well. 

Drape has been shown to be related to bending and shearing behaviour and also to fabric weight. Drape has been shown to be related to bending and shearing behaviour and also to fabric weight. 

Shearing in woven fabrics involves yarns rotation at their intersections

Shearing in woven fabrics involves yarns rotation at their intersections

Shearing is enhanced by flexible, smooth yarns that can move easily over one another and by looser weaves that allow the yarns room to rotate. Higher crimp in a woven fabric also decreases the resistance to shearing.

Paper usually has a low resistance to bending, but if it is  bent in one direction, it does not easily bend in the 

other direction. 

Paper usually has a low resistance to bending, but if it is  bent in one direction, it does not easily bend in the 

other direction. 

Woven and knitted fabrics, however, can shear to assume a double curvature and will, therefore, exhibit better 

drape and shaping properties.

Woven and knitted fabrics, however, can shear to assume a double curvature and will, therefore, exhibit better 

drape and shaping properties.

Nonwoven textiles, on the other hand, do not usually shear easily and will behave 

more like paper.

Nonwoven textiles, on the other hand, do not usually shear easily and will behave 

more like paper.

g. Fabric hand: smoothness, fullness and stiffness

h. Permeability of air and water vapour

i. Prickling

j. Initial cold feel

Comfort

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The expert's handle judgement

1. Touch of fabric by hand

2. Detection of fabric bending stiffness, shear stiffness and surface smoothness, etc.

3. Summarized expressions about fabric characters.

4. Overall judgement of fabric quality

Standardization of fabric handle

g. Fabric hand: smoothness, fullness and stiffness h. Permeability of air and water vapour

GORE-TEX® fabric : an impenetrable barrier against wind and water while maintaining breathability.

k. Dimensional stability: shrinkage, growth, skewing

l. Colour fastness: to light, washing, perspiration, rubbing, dry cleaning

m. Wrinkle resistance

Maintenance

Change in length, : Shrinkage, growthwidth

Change in shape : Skewness, bow, twist

Maintenance of shape and dimensions of a fashion product is a significant factor

in its acceptance by consumers.

k. Dimensional stability: shrinkage,growth, skewing

Relaxation of stress imposed during weaving, knitting or drying (warping, takedown tension, roller tension).

Items are especially affected by the moisture and heat used in washing and tumble drying.

Most of the shrinkage due to relaxation occurs with the first wash.

Relaxation shrinkageRelaxation shrinkage Reduction of ShrinkageReduction of Shrinkage

• Sanforization• Mercerization• Resin treatment• Heat Setting

TwistingTwisting

Twisting of garments after laundering

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Color is a highly visible phenomenon, it is particularly important to most consumers.Manufacturers of textiles and apparel are very concerned with color specification, color matching, and the colorfastness of their products. Color fastness tests provide exposure to various agents and treatments that can potentially alter textile color, including:

water, perspiration, light, laundering, bleaching, drycleaning, crocking.

l. Colour fastness: to light, washing,perspiration, rubbing, dry cleaning

n. Elasticity: elastic recovery, residual straino. Thermal insulationp. Water repellence, water resistance and water

proofq. Wicking: vertical and horizontal transportation

of liquidr. Water absorbencys. Seam slippaget. UV protectionu. Soil releasev. Snagging resistance

Functional

%100.Re0

01 ×−= LLLExtsidual

Lo - Initial lengthL1 - Length after release L2 - Length at extension

Lo - Initial lengthL1 - Length after release L2 - Length at extension

Load (N)

Length (cm)

Lo L1 L2

%100covRe02

12 ×−−= LL

LLery

n. Elasticity: elastic recovery, residual strain

KES - ThermolaboKES - Thermolabo

o. Thermal insulation

If air is confined in small spaces, then convection is also minimised, and the air is “dead”. The higher

the volume of dead air within a textile structure, the better the insulation value of the textile.

If air is confined in small spaces, then convection is also minimised, and the air is “dead”. The higher

the volume of dead air within a textile structure, the better the insulation value of the textile.

Wool is a good fibre for insulation because its natural crimp maintains a high volume of dead air. Wool is a good fibre for insulation because its natural crimp maintains a high volume of dead air.

Finer fibres have more surface area, which results in more dead air space between fibres. An example is the effective use of micro-fibres in coats for use in cold climates.

Finer fibres have more surface area, which results in more dead air space between fibres. An example is the effective use of micro-fibres in coats for use in cold climates.

Factors affecting fabric thermal resistanceFactors affecting fabric thermal resistance

An important factor affecting the r - value is the amount of air spacecontained within a textile structure.

Textile fibres are poor conductors of heat, but air conducts even less heat.

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Perspiration in vapour form, body is relatively comfortable. When this vapour cannot escape, the vapour condense to sweat, increasing discomfort. Under these conditions, the contribution of textile fabrics to comfort depends on their ability to carry away the water vapour.

Gore-tex ®

p. Water repellence, water resistance and water proof q. Wicking: vertical and horizontal

transportation of liquid

s. Seam slippage

• Snagging is the catching of a thread by a sharp point or rough surface forming an unsightly puckering.

• Any fabric with long yarn floats such as in a stain weave, or a knitted fabric with long loop is more likely to snag than are other types of fabric structures.

v. Snaggingresistance

w. Toxicity: residual dye stuff and otherfinishing agent

x. Flammability

Safety Apparel Products: Recommended fibre Requirements And fabric type (at most five )

1. Sweater ______________ _________2. Men’s suit ______________ _________3. Men’s dress shirt ______________ _________4. Sleepwear ______________ _________5. Evening gown ______________ _________6. Men’s work shirt ______________ _________7. Ski jacket ______________ _________8. Underwear ______________ _________9. Basketball vest ______________ _________10. Uniform trousers ______________ _________