bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
eroberogeday
elak s suxnI
k> pat; cnÞmunIrdæa elak esam vNѳ
© rkSasiTi§RKb;y:ag All Rights Reserved
December 2007
Prepared by Mr. Sor SoknyMiss. Phat Chanmony Ratha, Mr. Som Vannak
� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Foreword by UNESCO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
eyabl;elaknaykviTüasßan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
esckþIepþIm Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
EpñkTI 1 1> BN’Rkhm 1. Red color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5
2> BN’elOg 2. Yellow color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1
3> BN’exov 3. Blue color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 6
4> BN’exµA 4. Black color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 0
EpñkTI 2 5> hUl 5. Hol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7
6> pamYg 6. Phamuong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2
7> cr)ab; 7. Chorabab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6
8> sarug 8. Sarong Sotr. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 8
9> RkmasURt 9. Scarf. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 0
10> Bidan nigrnaMg 10. Pidan and Roneang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2
matikaGtßbT
�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
bBa¢IrukçCati List of plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 5
sTÞanuRkmtm,aj Technical terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 9
EpnTI Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 0
RbeTskm<úCa Cambodia extþtaEkv Takeo extþkNþal Kandal extþéRBEvg Prey Veng extþkMBg;cam Kampong Cham
bBa¢IeQµaHGñkEdl)anpþl;smÖasn_ List of interviewees . . . . . . 9 4
Éksareyag References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 8
� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
FOREWORD
UNESCO is much honored to have contributed to the successful publication of this book about one of the most important traditional crafts in Cambodia; natural dyeing. The completion of this publication bears testimony to the
continuous and intensive efforts of the Buddhist Institute to compile a very useful document on the techniques of natural dyeing so that the future generations of Cambodia may use these traditional techniques as a subsidiary occupation to improve their living conditions and to preserve their cultural heritage.
Natural dyeing in Cambodia incorporates specific techniques to produce colors from natural materials without using chemicals. All the elements involved in this process are available in the country. Of course, this natural color is suitable for the Khmer silk as its vivacity and intensity last for a very long period of time. The secret to this traditional craft is revealed in this precious book. Preserving natural dyeing is essential since this valuable tradition is already disappearing in some areas where craftsmen now tend to rely on chemical colors of doubtful quality.
UNESCO would also like to encourage national institutions to take new measures aiming at safeguarding this promising traditional craft by disseminating knowledge on a much larger scale. Training young Cambodian people with traditional craft techniques is the only way forward to contribute to its preservation. In this respect, UNESCO is ready to provide continuing assistance to the Royal Government for the benefits of the future generations of Cambodia.
Teruo Jinnai
UNESCO Representative in Cambodia
�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
eyabl;rbs;naykviTüasßanBuT§sasnbNÐitü
viTüasa®sþkan;EtrIkceRmInBImYyqñaM eTAmYyqñaM smÖar³eRbIR)as;RKb;Ebb
y:agkan;Etvivtþn_eTArkPaBfµI nigTan;sm½y rYmpSMnigTIpSaresrImankarRbkYt
RbECg\tQb;Qr sUm,IEtvb,Fm’RbéBNI énRbeTsnImYy² k¾mankar
pSBVpSay [RbeTsepSg² TTYlsÁal;erog²xøÜnEdr. TnÞwmnwgkarrIkceRmIn
TaMgGs;enHeyIg CakUnExµrk¾RtUvEtrkSa nigpSBVpSayGVIEdlCavb,Fm’ RbéBNI
énCatieyIg eTaHbI manGVIEdlfµInigTMenIbCag k¾eyIgminePøcnUvGVIEdlCa
b£sKl;BitR)akdrbs;eyIg dUcCakart,aj Rkma sarugsURt hUl pamYg
cr)ab; Bidan Edlman lkçN³ RbéBNICatieyIg. saklPavUbnIykmµ
eRbób)andUcCak®nþkmYyEdldak;páacRmuHBN’ EdlBN’TaMgenaHdMNag[
vb,Fm’rbs;CnCatinImYy² enAelIBiPBelakeyIgenH.
KYrkt;smÁal;fa plitplsURtExµrCaeRcIn\LÚvminsUvRClk;BN’
FmµCatieT eRcInEteRbIl½xKImI EdlCaplitplseRmcnaMcUlBIbreTs.
dUecñHkareRbIR)as;l½xFmµCatirbs;Exµr BitCaminsUvsm,Úr NamYyl½xKImIman
RKb;BN’ Etl½xFmµCatiminsm,ÚrBN’dUcl½xKImIeT. eTaHbICaplitpl
tm,ajsil,³sib,kmµTaMgenH mankarBi)akkñúgkarplity:agNak¾eday
ehIyCaBiesseTAeTotkñ úgkareRbIR)as;l½xFmµCatienaHrwtEtBi)ak
nigRtUvkarPaBGMNt; b:uEnþGVIEdlRbCaCatieyIg)anTTYlenaH minEmn
RtwmEttémø kñúgkarTijlk;sMBt;mYyk,inenaHeT KWEfmTaMgTTYlnUvtémø nig
kitþiysrbs;CatieyIgeTotpg.
� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
edayemIleXIjdUecñHehIy RBmTaMgmankar]btßmÖBIGgÁkar UNESCO
EpñkfvikapgenaH RkumRsavRCavrbs;viTüasßanBuT§sasnbNÐitü )ancuH
eFVIkarRsavRCav BIviFIRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKMrUtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
enAkñúgextþbIman³ extþéRBEvg extþkNþal nig extþtaEkv edIm,ITukCaÉksar
RsavRCavteTAmuxeTot nigsRmab;GñkminTan;ecH[)anyl;nUvbBaðamYycMnYn
sþIBIkarplitenH.
enAkñúgesovePAenH elakGñknwgsÁal;nUvk,ac;hUl pamYg cr)ab; sarugsURt
RkmasURt nigBidanmYycMnYn k¾dUcCaviFIsa®sþkñúgkarRClk;BN’FmµCati.
éf¶c½nÞ TI 10 Ex kBaØa qñaM 2007
naykviTüasßanBuTÐsasnbNÐitü
�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
RbeTsExµrCaRbeTsmYyEdlmanvb,Fm’ RbéBNI TMenomTmøab;
d¾]tþúg]tþmmYyenAGasuIGaeKñy_ Gs;kald¾yUrNas;mkehIy. y:agNamij
tm,ajKWCasñaédsil,³ sib,kmµExµrmYy EdlmantaMgBIeRkaysm½y
hVÚNn b:uEnþmanGñkRsavRCavxøH)anniyayfa ExµrecHplitsURttaMgBI
munsm½yRbvtþisa®sþeTAeTot. RbCaCatiExµrecHt,ajsURtCaeRcInRbePT
mank,ac;rcnaepSg²BIKñadUcCa el,Ik ERBlat GnøÚj Rkma sarugsURt
cr)ab; suwg hUl pamYg Bidan RbkbedayBN’l¥l¥HEdlcRmaj;ecjBI
rukçCatiCaeRcInmux nigFatupSMCaeRcIneTot. TaMgGs;enHKWsRmab;eRbIR)as;
kñúgkarbiT)aMgragkay nigCaeRKÓglm¥epSg²EdlRbkbeTAedayBN’FmµCati
KYrCaTIKyKn; taMgBIyUryarrhUtdl;sm½ysBVéf¶enH k¾enAEtminsabsUnü
Edr. eyIgeXIjfa tm,ajsURtExµrmaneRcInRbePTmank,ac;rcnaepSg²Kña
ehIysñaédsil,³enH)anbnSl;TukCaPsþútagtamry³rUbcmøak;GbSraEdl
esøóksMBt;Rbkbedayk,ac;rcnay:agl¥viciRt enAelICBa¢aMgR)asaTGgÁrvtþ
nigR)agÁR)asaTCaeRcIneTotenAelITwkdIkm<úCad¾BisidæeyIgenH.
semøókbMBak;RbéBNI EdleFVIGMBIsURtdUcCa hUl pamYg cr)ab; sarug
sURt.l. CasemøókbMBak;RbéBNIExµrtaMgBIbrmburaNmk minfara®sþ
namuWn m®nþI tUc FM RBHmhakSRt suT§EteRbIsemøókbMBak;EdleFVIBIsñaéd
htßBlkmµTaMgenH. eTaHCasm½ybc©úb,nñmansemøókbMBak;TMenIb²naMcUl
BIbreTs b¤ plitkñúgRsukk¾eday k¾kñúgBiFIerobmgÁlkar nigBiFIbuNüRbéBNI
Catinana rYmTaMgBiFIbuNüepSg²enAkñúgRBHbrmraCvaMg hUl pamYg cr)ab;
esckþIepIþm
bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
enAEtCasemøókbMBak;eBjniymrbs;RbCaCnExµrdEdl. etIsib,kmµtm,aj
sURt nwgkarRClk;BN’FmµCatimandMeNIrkarplity:agdUcemþcxøH? BitEmn
ehIykart,aj hUl pamYg sarugsURt cr)ab; BitCamankarBi)akNas;
TRmaM)ansURtmYysMBt; b¤mYyk,inykmkesøókBak; b¤tubEtgCaeRKÓg
lm¥epSg² enAtamTIkEnøgepSg²EdlerobcMCalkçN³Exµr edIm,ITak;Taj
ePJóveTscrN¾mkBIRbeTsepSg²enaH sib,kreyIgRtUvcMNayminRtwmEt
R)ak;edIm,ITijsURtenaHeT KWEfmTaMgTwkcitþ nigeTBekaslürbs;xøÜneTotpg.
b:uEnþeTaHCamankarlM)aky:agNak¾eday k¾BYkKat;enAEtBüayameFIVkar
y:agp©itp©g;edIm,It,ajplitplTaMgGs;enH.
eyIgsg,wmeCOCak;fa lTæplénkarsikSaRsavRCavBIviFIRClk;BN’
FmµCatienH vamansar³RbeyaCn_bMputkñúgkarCYybgðajKRmUtm,ajburaN
rbs;sib,kreyIg kñúgkart,ajsURt nigkarRClk;BN_FmµCatidl;bgb¥Ún
RbCaBlrdæExµrTUTaMgRbeTsEdlmanbMNgcg;RbkbGaCIvkmµeFVIsURtExµr
CamYynigBN’FmµCati. vaminEmnRKan;EtGacCYydl;GaCIvkmµeFVItm,aj
sURt nigkarRClk;BN’EbbFmµCatiEtb:ueNÑaHenaHeT b:uEnþvaEfmTaMgCa
ÉksarmYy EdlGacCYyrkSaRTRTg;RbéBNITMenomTmøab;kñúgkarrs;enA
rbs;RbCaraRsþExµrCMnan;eRkay²eTAeTot.
10
11bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
INTRODUCTION
Cambodia is a country in Southeast Asia with a long history of great culture and tradition. Weaving is a Khmer craft that has existed since the Funan period. However, some researchers have said that the Khmer could produce
silk even in the prehistoric period. Khmer people could weave many kinds of silk products with different decorative patterns, such as lboek prealeat, angloung (checkered cloth), krama (scarf), sarong sotr, chorabab, soeung, hol, phamuong, pidan (used in Buddhist ceremonies) in magnificent colors, which were extracted from trees and other materials. [For a long time] people have been using these types of materials for clothes and in decorations because of their glorious natural colors. This craft [weaving] is clearly apparent on the artistic skirts of the Apsara on the walls of Angkor Wat and other temples in the wonderful territory of the Kingdom of Cambodia.
Clothes made from silk include hol, phamuong, chorabab, and sarong sotr, these traditional Khmer clothes have long been used by ordinary people, low and high-ranking officials and the king. Although today there are many modern clothes imported from foreign countries or produced locally, hol, phamuong, and chorabab are still popular in wedding ceremonies, traditional festivals and royal ceremonies.
What are the processes of weaving and natural dyeing? In fact, it is a very hard work to weave hol, phamuong, sarong sotr, chorabab to produce one skirt or one kbin for clothing or Khmer-style decorations for places organized to attract foreign tourists. It costs craftsmen not only money to buy the silk but also mental effort and talent. However hard it is, they work on it with diligence.
We believe that the result of research on natural dyeing is vital proof to show different patterns of silk weaving and natural dyeing to all Khmer people who wish to operate businesses in Khmer silk products made from natural colors. It not only supports silk craftwork and natural dyeing but also serves as a document to preserve Khmer traditions and customs for the next generation.
bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia12
1EpñkTIPart 1
1�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
eyagtamkarsmÖasn_CamYyGñkplit eyIg
)anrkeXIjfa BN’RkhmRtUv)anplitecjBI
{l½xRkm:}. sBVéf¶enH enAkñ úgRbeTskm<úCa
dMeNIkarénkarplitl½xRkm: esÞIrEtGs;eTAehIy
elIkElgEtkñúgextþRkecH enHebItamsmIþelakta
Ca Qn Gayu 80 qñaM rs;enAkñúgPUmi RtBaMgcMbk;
XMusRmas;eBn RsuksMerag extþtaEkv. Kat;)an
plitl½xRkm:Cag 60 qñaMehIy eTaHbICakñúgrbb
b:ul Bt k¾eday. Kat;eTIbEtQb;pli tkñúgqñaM 2005 BIeRBaHsuxPaB
nigkar)at;bg;edImeQIGs;CaeRcInkñúgtMbn;EdlKat;rs;enA. edImeQI
Edlpþl;Tinñpll½xx<s; KWedImRtag/ edImsEgá/ edImkekaH/ edImc½nÞKirICaedIm.
l½xRkm:PaKeRcInEdlRbCaCneRbIsBVéf¶ KWnaMcUlmkBIRbeTsLavRbmaN
10 etan kñúg 1 qñaM.
edIm,ITTYl)anBN’Rkhm eyIgRtUvbMEbkl½xCadMutUc² ehIyeyIg
rm¶as;ry³eBl 2 em:ag bnÞab;mkeyIgeRcaH nigrkSaTukEtTwkBN’Rkhm
sRmab;layCamYyTwksøwkGMBil EdleyIg)anrm¶as;CaeRsc ]TahrN_
RbsinebIeyIgplithUlmYyk,in ¬beNþay 4 Em:Rt TTwg 1 Em:Rt¦ eyIg
RtUvkarl½xRkm: 1 KILÚRkam ¬RbsinebIesIm¦ nigsøwkGMBil 1 KILÚRkam.
karRClk;BN’enH eyIgRtUvkarvtßúFatuedImnImYy²EdlGacplitsarFaturav
cMnYn 2 lIRt kñúgmYymux². KYrkt;smÁal;faCaFmµta Twkm¢ÚrEdlplit
mkBIsøwkGm<ilmanKuNPaBl¥CagEpø.
BN’Rkhm
enHCarUbelakta Ca Qn Gayu 80qñaM
Ta Chea Chhorn, 80 years oldenHCarUbelakta Ca Qn Gayu 80qñaM
1� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
enHCaedImRtag EdlduHenAkñúgextþtaEkv. kUnstVl½káEdlbegIátCal½xRkm: cUlcitþrs;enAelIedImenH EdleFVI[va
Gacplitl½x)anTinñplx<s;. sBVéf¶minsUvmaneXIjduHeRcIneT kñúgry³eBlEdlRkumRsavRCav)ancuHeTAGegát.
This is Trang tree in Takeo province. It can produce red dye in high percentage. There are not many in the fieldwork observation.
Red Color
Through the interview with the [dye] producers, we learned that the color red was made from a red dye called “leak sramor”. According to Grandfather Chea Chhorn, aged �0, living in Trapeang Cambok village, Samreahpen
commune, Samrong district, Takeo province, in Cambodia, the production of red dye is currently on the verge of extinction, except in Kratie province. He had produced red dye for more than �0 years, even during the Pol Pot regime. He just stopped producing it in 2005 because of health problems and the decrease of trees around his area. Trees that give high color output are trang (Ficus altissima Blume), sangke (Combretam quadrangulare Kurz), kakoh (Sindora Siamensis Teijsmex), chankiri (Albizia Saman)…etc. Most red dye used today, approximately 10 tonnes per year, is imported from Laos.
To get color for red dye, we need to break it into small pieces then decoct it for two hours. After that we decant it and retain only the red liquid and mix it with water from decocted tamarind leaves. For example, if we are producing hol for one kbin (� meters long and 1 meter width) we need one or one and a half kilograms of red dye (if it is wet) and one kilogram of tamarind leaves. These materials will produce two liters of liquid dye each. It should be noted that traditionally sour liquid abstracted from tamarind leaves is of better quality than that of the liquid abstracted from tamarind fruits.
1�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
enHCaedImsEgá EdlmanduHeRcInenAtamtMbn;CnbT.
Sangke Tree which are frequently seen in rural areal½xRkm:EdleKdak;kñúg)av
Red dye kept in sack
søwkGm<ilEdl)anes¶ar
Boiled Tamarind leaves
edImGm<il ¬søwk nigEpø¦
Tamarind tree (leaves and fruits)
1� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
sURtesImRtUv)anRClk;BN’Rkhmedaye)ak niges¶arkñúgTwkenaH
cMnYn 10 naTI. eyIgRtUvEte)akvay:agticNas;R)aMbIdMNak;kaldIm,I[
BN’cUlRKb;sréssURt. mYydMNak;kalesµInwg 120 dg.
enAkñúgdMNak;kalenHBN’eyIgTTYl)anRkhmRsal b¤BN’páaQUk.
BN’RkhmnwgelceLIgkan;Etc,as;bnÞab;BIeyIg)anRClk;BN’elOg.
Wet silk was dyed in red liquid by beating and boiling it in the liquid for ten minutes. We have to beat it at least eight times to allow each thread of the silk to absorb the color. Each stage equals one hundred and twenty beats.
At this stage, the color we get is light red or pink. The red color will show clearly after we put it in a yellow-colored dye.
Twkl½xRkm:
Red dye liquidkareRcaHykEtTwkl½x
Decanting the red dye liquid
1�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
kareFVI[BN’RkhmRCabcUleTARKb;sréssURt
Beating allows each thread of the silk to absord the red color.kares¶arKaFeFVI[BN’kan;EtRCabsBVl¥
Boiling silk
karRClk;BN’KaF¬sURt¦
Dyeing silk
20 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BN’Rkhm Red Color
1 2 3
54
76
8
Twkm¢Úr
(Sour liquid)
bnÞHduMeQI
(Wooden board)
Twkl½x
(Red dry liquid)
21bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BN’elOg
edImeQIeQµaHfaRBhUt CavtßúFatuedImd¾sMxan;edIm,IbegáItBN’elOg.
edImenaHGacrk)anenAtamtMbn;x<g;rabRbeTskm<úCa. eKciRBa©aMsm,kvaCa
duMtUc² nigrm¶as;RbmaNknøHem:ag. bnÞab;mkeyIgeRcaHvaykEtTwkBN’
elOg layCamYyemSAsaCUrcMnYnmYyryRkam EdlnaM[TwkenaHvanwg
bgðajBN’elOgRsal.
Twkk,úgRtUv)anplitBIepHsMbkEpøeck KWmanKuNPaBl¥RbesIrCag
epHedImsEgá b¤k¾edImeQIepSgeTot. epHsm,keck 1 KILÚRkam Gacplit
Twkk,úg)an 6 lIRt ¬eRcaHrYcral;¦. enAkñúgcMNuHenH eyIgEckCabIEpñk
ehIyBIrEpñk RtUv)anrkSaTuksRmab;karlagsURt b¤ÉEpñkEdlenAsl;
TuksRmab;RtaMRKab;Cm<Ú.
Twkk,úgGacplitBIrukçCatiCaeRcIndUcCa pÞIbnøa sm,kEpøK b¤ rukçCatiFmµta
EtminsUvmanKuNPaBl¥.
RbsinebIeyIgcg;TTYlBN’elOgcas; eyIgRtUvkarbEnßmBN’BIRKab;
Cm<ÚEdlGacrkTij)ankñúgTIpSar ehIyeyIgeRbIR)as;vacMnYn 150 Rkam
sRmab;hUl 1 k,in.
22 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Yellow Color
A tree named prahout (Gareinia Vilersiana Pierre) is the main raw material to produce a yellow color. This tree can be found in the highlands of Cambodia. Its bark is chopped into small pieces and decocted for half an hour. Then we
decant only the yellow liquid and mix it with powdered alum (100 grams), which converts the liquid to a light yellow.
Potash water was produced from banana skin ash, which is better than from sangke tree ash or from other plants. One kilogram of banana ash can produce six liters of potash water (after decanting). We divide this volume into three parts and two of them are kept for washing silk and the rest for soaking with annatto grain.
Potash water can be produced from phti (Amaranthus spinosus L.) or other plants, but it is of low quality.
sm,kRBhUteRkom
The dried bark of Prahout tree
23bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
karbMEbkduMl½xRkm: nigci®Ba©aM
sm,kRBhUtedIm,Idak;es¶ar
Breaking red dye and chopping bark of Prahout
kares¶arsm,kRBhUt
Boiling bark of Prahout
eyIgx©b;RKab;enHeTAkñúgkEnSgrYcykeTARtaM ehIy nigdusvaenAkñúgTwk
k,úg 2 lIRt bnÞab;mkeyIge)aksURttamFmµta. eRkaymkeTot
eyIges¶arsURt CamYyTwkRBhUt 15 naTIenaHsURtnwgmanBN’elOgcas;
CaBuMxan.
enHCasøwk Epø nigEmkRBhUt
Leaves, fruits and branches of Prahout
TwkRBhUteRkayeBllay
CamYyemSAsaCUr
Prahout liquid after mixed with aluminum powder
karlagKaFCamYyTwkk,úg
Washing silk with potash water
2� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
If we want to get a dark yellow color, we need to add color from annatto grains (Bixa orellana), which can be bought in markets. We use one hundred and fifty grams for one kbin of hol. We pack the grains in the scarf, soak and rub them in the remaining two liters of potash water. Then we beat the silk as normal. After that we boil the silk with prahout water for fifteen minutes. The silk will become a dark yellow.
edImCm<Ú
Annatto treeRKab;Cm<Ú
Annatto grains
karRtaMRKab;Cm<ÚkñúgTwkk,úg
Annatto grain in potash waterkarRClk;KaFkñúgTwkk,úgBN’elOg
Dyeing silk in yellow potash waterkares¶arsURtkñúgTwkRBhUt
Boiling silk in Prahout liquid
2�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BN’elOg Yellow Color
1 2 3
45
6 7
98
mnusSGgÁúyciRBa©aMsMbk
Chopping bark of Prahout
saCUr
Alum powder
TwkRBhUt
Prahout liquid
mnusuSQre)akKaF
Weaver is standing to beat Kiedh
RKab;Cm<ÚBN’
Annatto grain
ebIcg;)anBN’elOgTuM
If we want to get dark yellow:
Twkk,úg
Potash water
KaFes¶arCamYyTwkRBhUt
Kiedh is boiling with prahout liquid
2� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BN’exov
sBVéf¶enHkarplitBN’exov KWCakarBi)akmYyCagBN’epSgeTot
BIeRBaHbnÞab;BIrbb b:ul Bt mnusSEdldwgBIrbobplitsøab;esÞIrEtGs;
eTAehIy. krNIepSgeTotmkBI\T§iBlénsaklPavUbnIykmµCarYmEdl
mann½yfaBN’exovEdlplitBIFatuKImIgayRsYlEsVgrkkñúgTIpSar ehIy
efakCag. dUecñHkareRbIplitplsURt b¤GMe)aHBN’exovBIBN’FmµCati
mankarfycuHy:agelOn ehIyesÞIrEtputrlt;Gs;eTAehIy. tamry³
viFIsa®sþcas; eyIgRKan;EtGaceFVI)anBN’RsedogEtb:ueNÑaH.
CaRbéBNIeyIgeRbIR)as;edImRtuM EdlGacrk)anenAkñúgPUmi b¤k¾daMva.
eyIgGaceRbIR)as;søwkRtuM edaybukva ehIyBUtykTwkBN’ébtg b¤RtaM
søwkRtuMRss;BIryb; bnÞab;mkRClk;nwgsURt. KuNPaBplittamviFIenH
minsUvl¥ BIeRBaHBN’nwgehIrenAkñúgeBlxøIxagmux.
dUecñH eyIgRtUvkarplitFøH. eyIgRtaMedImRtuMkñúgTwk1yb; bnÞab;mk
eyIgykedImRtuMecj TukEtkaksMNl; nigTwkEdlmankøinGaRkk;. eyIg
bEnßmkMe)arelos nigsáretñatCaerogral;éf¶ry³eBl 1 GaTitü b¤yUr
CagenH. sarFaturavenHeKehAfaFøH EdleKGacRClk;BN’sURt b¤GMe)aH
)an. kalBImunkñúgdMbn; b¤PUmimYy RKYsarnImYy²manCMnajerog²xøÜn.
RKYsarxøHGacCaGñkt,aj CaCageQI nigGñkepSgeTot GacCaGñk
RClk;BN’. dMeNIrkarplitFøHenH BImuny:agehacNas;k¾eRbIry³eBl
1 s)þah_ edIm,IeFVI[rYcral;.
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Blue Color
edImRtMu
Trom treesøwk Epø nigRKab;RtMu
Leaves, fruits and grains of Trom tree
Today producing blue color is harder than other colors because since the Pol Pot regime, most of the people who knew how to produce it have died. Other causes are the impact of globalization, which means the blue color is
made from chemical substances, which are easy to find in the market and cheaper. Therefore, the use of natural blue color for silk or cotton clothes is decreasing rapidly and almost becoming extinct. It is only through the old methods that we can make a similar color.
Traditionally we use trom tree (Indigofera tinetoria), which can be found in the villages or by planting it. We can use trom’s leaves by pounding and wringing out the green liquid or soaking the fresh leaves for two nights then dyeing the silk. The quality of this color is not good because the color will quickly fade.
So, we need to produce dhlah. We soak the trom tree for one night then take the tree and keep only the residue and the bad smelling water. Then we add shell limestone and palm sugar every day for one week. This liquid is called dhlah and can be used to dye silk or cotton. In the past, in one region or village, each family had its own specialties. The family could have the weaver, the carpenter and the dyer. The previous production method takes at least one week to complete.
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
kñúgkrNIRtUvkarRbjab;BYkeKRtUvEtplit mr EdlCaEpñkmYyén
FøHxab; b¤CaFmµta eyIgehAfaemFøH. sarFatuxab;enH GacrkSa)anyUr
edIm,IlayCamYyFøHfµI nigGacRClk;BN’)anqab;.
Hence, in urgent cases, they have to produce mor, which is a part of thick dhlah. This thick liquid can be kept for a long time to mix with new dhlah and is a quick material for dyeing.
mr enAkñúgextþtaEkv
Mor in Takeo provinceFøHenApÞHelak sYg m‘íc kñúgextþtaEkv
Dhlah at Mr. Suong Mich’s house
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BN’exov Blue Color
1
2 3
RtaM 2yb;
Soak two nightskMe)arlas
Shell lime stone
Bagdak; mr
Mor
kMe)arlas
Shell lime stone+
BagFøH
Jar to keep Dhlah
edImRtMu
Trom tree
30 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BN’enH KWRtUv)aneKcMraj;ykecjBIsm,kedImGMBilTwk nigedImq½Rt.
eyIgbkyksm,kedImeQITaMgBIrenH 2 KILÚRkam énedImeQInImYy²
bnÞab;mkeyIges¶arva 2 em:ag. eyIgeRcaHykEtTwk nigrkSasItuNðPaB
rbs;vaenAFmµta bnÞab;mkeyIgGacRClk;sURt ehIyes¶arsURtmþgeTot
CamYyTwkenH. eRkaymkeyIge)aksURtCamYyTwksµIn ehIyhal
sm¶ÜtvaenAkñúgmøb; nigxül; eyIgGacTTYl)ansURtBN’exµAsRmab;t,aj.
TwksµIn KWCalT§plénRbtikmµrvagEdkeRcH 1 KILÚRkam sáretñat
mYyKILÚRkam RkUcqµar 30Epø nigTwk 30 lIRt. sRmab;RkUcqµar eyIgRtUvkar
han;CacMNitesþIg². Caerogral;éf¶ eyIgRtUvbEnßmcMNitRkUcqµarCalMdab;
edIm,ITTYl)anKuNPaBl¥RbesIrénTwkenH. eyIgrkSaTukvtßúFatuedImTaMgenH
enAkñúgBagFMmYy nigeRkamBnøWRBHGaTitüBIcMnYn 5 éf¶ eTAmYys)þah½.
kñúgkrNIxøHeyIgGaces¶arcMNittUc² énedImKUElnCamYynwgEdk
ry³eBl 2 em:ag ehIyeyIgGacRClk;sURt)an. eFVIrebobenHeyIg
EfmTaMgTTYl)anBN’exµAeTotpg.
eRkAGMBIrukçCatiEdl)anerobrab;xagelI KWenAmanrukçCatiepSg²eTot
EdleK GacykmkcRmaj;ykBN’)andUcCa³
- dUg¬RskI¦BN’dUcRskIdUg
- xñúr BN’elOgtic²
- nenag BN’exovx©I
- eBaF× nigesþA BN’elOgcas;CaedIm.
BN’exµA
31bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Black Color
This color was extracted from ampil toek (Tamarind water tree) and chatra tree. We strip two kilograms of the barks from each of the two trees, and then boil them for two hours. We decant only the water and keep it until it lowers to a normal temperature. Next, we can dye the silk. After that, we boil the silk again with this water. Then we wash the silk with smin water and dry it in shade and wind, so we can get black silk for weaving.
Smin water is the result of a reaction between one kilogram of rusty iron, one kilo-gram of sugar palm, thirty lemons and thirty liters of water. We need to slice the lemon before using it. Every day we have to add a small piece of a lemon in order to improve the quality of the water. We keep these materials in a big jar and leave them in the sunlight for five days to one week.
In some cases, we can boil sliced litchi tree (Litchi chinensis sonn) with iron for two hours and we can dye the silk. This also gives a black color.
Beside the plants we introduced above, some other plants that people could abstract colors from include:
- Coconut- Jackfruit- Nornong (Luffa acutan gula -(L.) Roxb.)- Po and sdaov (Aglaia- leptantha Miq)
edImGm<ilTwk
Ampil toek tree (Tamarind water tree)
32 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BagFMsRmab;dak;TwksµIn enAeRkamkMedARBHGaTitü
Big jar to keep Smin water under sun lightcMNitedImKUeln nigEdkeKal
Sliced Litchi tree and iron
TwksµIn
Smin water
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
BN’exµA Black Color
1
3
2
sMbkedImGm<ilTwk
Bark of Tamarind water tree
sMbkedImq½Rt
Bark of Chatr tree
eRcaH
Decanting
es¶ar
Boiling
BagTwksµIn
Jar to keep Smin water
eRcHEdk
Rusty iron
RkUcqµa
Lemon
Twk 30lIRt
30 litres of water
sáretñat 1 KRk
1 kg of Palm Sugar
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia3�
2EpñkTIPart 2
3�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
hUl
KaFKWCasMNuMsURtEdleKcgsRmab;ykeTARClk;BN’ EdlPasa
Gg;eKøs mann½yfa GuIxat;. Rtg;enHExµrmanlkçN³Biessrbs;xøÜnmYy.
KaFssuT§ CadMbUgeK RtUvRClk;nwgBN’Rkhm bnÞab;mkeKkat;cMNgBN’
RkhmenH rYcehIyeKRClk;nwgBN’elOg nwgbnþbnÞab;KWBN’exov.
cMNgKaF ³ kalBImuneyIgeRbIExSEdlplitBIRsTbeckCVa Edl
BuMTan;ecjEpø. eKeRcókRsTbeckenaH rYchaléf¶[RsBab;eTIbGac
cg)an. sBVéf¶ExSEdleFVIBInILúgRtUv)aneKykmkCMnYs eRBaHEtkgVHxat
edImeckRbePTenH. m:üagmkBICMenORbCaCnExµreyIg Edlhammin[daM
enAEk,rpÞH. elIkElgEtenAkñúgGgÁkarxøHdUcCa viTüasßanvaynP½NÐ
RbéBNIExµr EdlmanTItaMgkñúgextþesomrabCaedImKWenAeRbIR)as;enAeLIy.
kñúgRbéBNIExµrmank,ac;eKamhUleRcInNas; EdlekIteLIgBIKMnit
écñRbDitepSg² BIk,ac;eKamburaNrbs;sib,kreyIgBImYyCMnan;eTAmYyCMnan;.
tamkar[dwgBIGñktm,ajcas;²)an[dwgfa kñúgkareFVIhUlmYyk,in eKRtUvkar
ry³eBlyUrNas; KWy:agticbIEx eRBaHBYkKat;RtUvciBa©wmdgáÚvnagedIm,I
plitsURt RClk;BN’ nigt,ajedayxøÜnÉg. KYrkt;smÁal;fa k,ac;eKam
hUlBIburaNmanlkçN³FM²CagsBVéf¶dUcCa k,ac;eKamFM eKamxøwmc½nÞ
eKamExSrBIrCan; eKamEPñkeKaCaedIm.
kart,ajhUlTamTar[mankarBüayamx<s;. Gñkt,ajRtUvecH
tRmwmsréssURtedIm,I[elcecjCarUmeKamRtg; nigs¥atl¥.
3� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Hol
Kiedh is a skein of silk which weavers tie for dyeing, in English called ikat. Khmer weavers have their own special technique to do that. White kiedh was first dyed with red, as I explained in Part 1, then with yellow
and lastly with blue.
To tie the kiedh, we use young banana sheath, but today it has been replaced by nylon. There are some organizations still preserving this technique, for example the Institute for Traditional Khmer Textile located in Siem Reap. According to Khmer superstition, people believe this kind of banana tree cannot be planted near their houses.
There are many patterns of hol in Khmer tradition, which were created by weaver from generation to generation. Through the interviews with old weaver, we found that in the past, to produce one kbin of hol, they had to spend at least three months to complete the work. This takes a long time because they need to feed cocoons to produce silk, dye and weave it by themselves. It should be noted that previous patterns were bigger than those of today, such as phnek Ko (cow eyes), khlim chan, double lines…etc.
To get a high quality of hol, the weaver needs to have rich experience and diligence, and take great care.
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
karcgKaFedayExSeckmun nwgykeTARClk;BN’
Tieing Khiedh before dyeingkarkat;cMNgKaFelIkTImYyedIm,IRClk;BN’elOgCabnþ
Cutting Khiedh tie then dye with yellow color
sURtEdleKrévcUlxñal;rYcbRmugnwgt,aj
Silk ready for weavingeKamEPñkeKamkBIextþtaEkv
Kom (Lantern) Phnek Ko (cow eyes) from Takeo
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
eKamkUnhg;
Kom Kon HangeKampáaraMg
Kom Phka RaingeKampáaQUkr½tñ
Kom Phka Chhouk Roat
eKampáamøiH
Kom Phka Mlis
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Gñktm,ajsURtenARsuk)aTIextþtaEkv
Hol weaver in Bati district, Takeo province
eKamk,ÚgeBRCCasñaédrbs;elak
Egt em:g extþtaEkv
Kom tbong pich, Mr. Nget meng’s work, Takeo
eKamExSGRgwg
Kom Khse Angring
eKamcMNitcahYymkBIXuMERBkc®gáan
Kom Chamnit Chahuoy from Prek Changkran Commune
eKamkUnhuIg
Kom Kon hing
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
pamYg
CaRbePTmYyénsMBt;ExµreyIg ehIymaneRcInBN’eTAtamtRmUvkar.
pamYgPaKeRcInKWmanBN’EtmYy. eyIgenAcaM)anfakalBIb:unµanqñaMmun
pamYgkTa mann½yfa BN’dUckénstVTamankareBjniymxøaMgNas;kñúg
cMeNamGñkeRbIR)as;.
tamFmµtaeKt,ajpamYgedayeRbIfárcMnYn 3 y:agtic EtGaceRcIn
CagenH kñúgkrNIEdlplitkrcg;rcnabEnßmnUv CreCIg páa b¤k,ac;epSg².
enAekaHdac;mant,aj rhUtdl;fárcMnYn 30. pamYgenHeK[eQµaHfa
pamYgt,ÚgeBRC EdlkMBugEtmanPaBl,Il,aj.
43bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Phamuong
Phamuong is a kind of Khmer weaving product that has many colors, as required by users, but generally has only one color per piece. We remember that recently Phamuong Kor Tea (the color is similar to the color of a duck’s
neck) has been very well known.
Weavers use at least three thkor or more if that phamuong has a pattern or hem decoration. In Koh Dach, weavers use up to 30 thkor for the one called phamuong tbong pich (diamond phamuong), which has now become popular.
Gñktm,ajhUl nigpamYgenAXuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg
Weaver in Prek Changkran commune, Sithor Kandal district, Prey Veng province
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
pamYgCreCIgk,ac;GgÁr
Hem of Phamuong, Angkor pattern
pamYgCreCIgk,ac;bnÞayRsI
Hem of Phamuong, Banteay Srey pattern
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
TaMgenHCaBN’ nigk,ac;epSg²én
pamYgt,ÚgeBRC
These are different colors and pattern of Phamoung Tbong Pic
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
cr)ab;
tamkarGegátsBVéf¶ tMbn;EdlenAplitcr)ab;enHKWenAkñúg XuM
ERBklYg RsukxSac;kNþal extþkNþal. eKeRbIR)as;cr)ab;KWsRmab;
kat;semøókbMBak;RbéBNIkñúgmgÁlkar nigBiFImgÁlepSg². rebobén
kart,ajcr)ab;enH KWRbEhlnwgkart,ajpamYg b¤hUlEdr. cr)ab;man
k,ac;páaepSg² dUcCa páafáúl páaknÞÜt páac½nÞ t,ÚgeBRC CaedIm.
manRbePTsMBt;EdlgayRcLMnwgcrr)ab;KWel,Ik. el,IkxusBIcr)ab;
Rtg;kñúgcr)ab; páaEdleKBenøceLIgKWeKeRbIEssy Éel,IkvijeKBenøc
edayeRbIsURt. cr)ab; manfáreRcInEdlGñkt,ajxøH)anR)ab;eyIgfa
manrhUtdl;eTA 60 fár.
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Chorabab
Nowadays, chorabab is only produced in Khsach Kandal district, Kandal Province. People use chorabab in wedding and blessing ceremonies. The way to produce chorabab is similar to how to make hol and phamuong.
There are a few popular patterns such as kantuot flower, chan flower, and diamond. There is a kind of cloth similar to chorabab called lboek. Lboek is different from chorabab because chorabab uses sesoy to show up the pattern or flowers, but lboek uses silk instead. Weavers use a lot of thkor to produce chorabab; in some case they use sixty thkor.
cr)ab;páac½nÞ
Corabab Phka Chan
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
sarugsURt
sar ugsURtCasMBt ;m YyRbePTEdlCnCat iEx µr\søamn iym
cUlcitþeRbI nigesøókBak; cUlrYmkñugBiFIFM²eTotpg. FmµtasarugsURt
minmank,ac; b¤eKamGVIsµúRKsµajeT tamry³kart,ajknøgmk. sarugsURt
maneKamduMGacm_CVa EdlmanPaBl,IKYrsm nigsarugsURtsCaedIm.
eKam duMGacmn_CVa sarug mkBIERBkc®gáan
Kom Dom Ach Jvea from Prek Changkran
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Sarong Sotr
Khmer Muslims like to use and wear it not only at home but also in big ceremonies. The pattern of sarong is not complicated and has a few models like dom ach cvea, which is quite well-known and sarong sotr.
Gñktm,aj sarugenAPUmi ekagTenø Rsuk ekaHsUTin
Weaver in Koang Tole village, Koh Sotin District
sarugsURts
White sarong
sarugsURtBN’elOg
Yellow Sarong Sotr
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
RkmasURt
RkmasURteRbIsRmab;bg;cUlrYmkñúgBiFIepSg². CaTUeTARbCaCn
km<úCamanRkmaeRbIR)as;y:agehacNas;mYy EdlesÞIrEtTaMgGs;eFVIBI
GMe)aHsuT§ b¤GMe)aHlaysURt. kareRbIR)as;RkmaCaTmøab;mYyén
RbCaCneyIg. kart,ajRkma nigsarugsURt eKeRbIEtfárBIr nigelOn
Cagkart,ajhUl b¤cr)ab;.
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Scarf
Every person has at least one scarf (krama). We mostly use scarves made from cotton and cotton-silk (more expensive). It is a part of Khmer tradition.
RkmasURtmkBIextþtaEkv
Krama from Takeo province
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Bidan nigrnaMg
BidanRtUv)aneKeRbIsRmab;EtkñúgBiFIsasna. eKamEdlmanenAelI
Bidanman niyayerobrab;BIBuT§Rbvtþi FmµCati páa stVhgS rUbRsIGbSra
CaedIm.
viFIsa®sþénkareFVIBidan KWesÞIrEtdUcKñaTaMgRsugeTAnwgkareFVIhUl
eRBaHeKRtUvyksURtmkcgKaF nwgRClk;BN’dUcKñaeTAnwgdMNak;kal
TaMgLayénkareFVIhUl. sBVéf¶ BidanmaneFVIenAkñúgRsuk)aTI extþtaEkv.
BidanmanrUbnaKmkBIextþesomrab
Picture of naga from Siem ReapBidanrUbR)asaTenHmandak;taMgenAGgÁkarKaMBarkumarExµextþtaEkv
Pidan at CYK, Bati district, Takeo province
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
Pidan and Roneang
This is used only in Buddhist ceremonies. The pattern on pidan illustrates the life of Buddha, nature, flowers, animals and Apsara.
The way to produce pidan or roneang is almost the same as the way we make hol because the silk has to be tied and dyed. It is currently only produced in Bati district, Takeo province.
BidanniyayGMBIkarecjeTAbYsrbs;RBHBuT§enHmandak;taMgenAGgÁkarKaMBarkumarExµr extþtaEkv
Pidan at CYK, Bati district, Takeo province
bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia5�
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
bBa¢IBakübec©keTssMrab;rukçCatidkRsg;ecjBIvcnanuRkmrukçCatieRbIR)as;kñúgRbeTskm<úCa1
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
11
sEgá combretum quadrangulare Kurz
eQµaHculøRBwkSmYyRbePTkMBs; 2 eTA
10 m duHkñúgéRBel,aH TIvaltammat;Twk
mankñúg ]bTVIb\NÐÚcin ¬RbeTséf PUma
km<úCa lav evotNam¦. søwksEgáeKdak;
eRkamBUk b¤ kenÞl[s¶Ütrabl¥sRmab;
mUrfñaMCk;. l½xl¥ elx1 sRmab;RClk;
sURtekItelIedImsEgáenHÉg edaystV
m:üageQµaH Carteria lacca . RKUeBTühµburaN
eRbIEpøsEgá sRmab;[Føak;RBUn. sMbkpSM
CamYyfñaMepSg²eTot eKeRbIBüa)aldMe)A
Xøg;. eBTüstVeRbIsMbkCafñaM kmøaMgeKa
nig esH.
Shrub, 2-10 m tall, of secondary formations and deforested places, common along the rivers, species met in the Indochinese Peninsula (Thailand, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam). The leaves, dried and well spread under mattes or mats, are used as cigarette paper. The plant may host lacquer insects (Carteria lacca), which make the lacquer-gum, natural dye for the silk. In traditional medicine, the fruits of (sângkaé) are used to remove ascaris. The bark is part of an ointment used to bandage the leperous ulcerations. The veterinary uses it as tonic for the oxen and the horses.
1GñkRKU DI pun e)aHBum< qñaM 2000
Listing of Technical word for plants Cited from planting Dictionary used in Cambodia
5� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
22
kekaH Sindora siam- ensis Teijsm. ex Miq var. siamensis
RBwkSmYyBYkkMBs; 6-10 m duHkñúg
éRBeRsag CamYysnþanxøúg Et,g nig
éRBel,aHén]bTVIb \NÐÚcin nig CVa.
EpøGacbriePaK)an eBlxøHeKsuICamYy
søamøÚ. eKGaclIgRKab;daMTwkpwk dUcEt
b¤eFVIcMNIepSg² eQIkekaHmantMélNas;
sRmab;eFVIeRKÓgpÞHdUcCakþar rnUt srsr.
sMNl;eQI GaceRbIeFVICaFüÚg)an. sMbk
sRmab;eFVIfñaM RClk;sMNaj;.
Tree, �-10 m tall, of the clear Dipterocarpus forests and secondary formations of the Indochinese and Malay Peninsula. The fruits are edible and chewed sometimes with the betel. The roasted seeds are used to make a tea like drink and is part of some desserts. Wood, graded its category, in demand for the constructions where it gives excellent floors, beams and columns. The by products of wood give a good coal. The bark is used to dyeing fishing nets.
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
33
RtMu Indigofera tinctorial Kum<RBwkStUcmYyRbePTkMBs; 50 eTA
60 s>m GacduHÉg²kñúgéRBeRsag b¤dI
valén\NÐÚcin eKeRcIndaMCadMNaM. søwkva
sRmab;RClk;sMBt;[ manBN’exµAsVay
tic² b¤exµA. RKUburaNExµreRbI b¤sRtuMeFVI
fñaMsÞHenam nigfñaMBüa)alCm¶WRbemH.
Sub-shrub, 50-�0 cm tall, subspont-aneouse in the open formations and on the waste grounds of Indochina. The leaves supply a purple black dye. The roots are used in tradi-tional Cambodian medicine against urinary retention and gonorrhea.
4�
Gm<ilTwk Pithecellobium dulce (Roxb.) Benth.
eQµaH eQItUcmYyRbePTkMBs; 6 eTA
10 m kMeNItkñúgTVIbGaemrickNþal eKnaM
mkdaMenARbeTsekþAénsklelak. eKeRcIn
daMeFVICarbgrs;. sac;Epørs;ct;lµmbriePaK.
eQIedImcas;² GaceRbIeFVICaeRKÓgpÞH)an.
sMbkGaceFVIfñaMrm¶ab;eraK. søwkcas;²man
rs;CatimYydUc Insuline ¬fñaMTwkenamEp¥m¦.
Small tree, �-10 m tall, originating from Central America, naturalized in all the tropical regions of the world, Species planted especially around houses to make quickset hedges. The arillus which wraps the seed is edible, eaten generally by the children, Wood of old trees may be used in construction. The colouring bark is used in traditional medicine. The old leaves contain a principle similar to the insulin.
5� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
55
KUEln Litchi chinensis Sonn.
eQµaHRBwkSmYyRbePTkMBs; 8 eTA
10 m duH enARbeTscinxagt,Úg nig evotNam
xageCIg BUkCVa naMmkdaMCayUrNas;mkehIy
KW 15 stvtSmun K>s. enARbeTsExµr
eKeXIjedImKUElnduHÉg² EtelIPñ M
KUElneT. eKEtgdaMsRmab;ykEpøCa
Gahar EpøRss;manCIvCati A nig B
CaeRcIn EtEpøeRKómKµanCIvCatienHeT.
Epøx©IeKeRbIeFVIfñaMGutFM. RKab;CafñaMeBaHevon.
RKYfñaMburaN es¶arpáa sMbk nig b¤sKUEln
Büa)alCm¶WbMBg;k.
Tree, �-10 m tall, originating from Southern China and Northern Vietnam introduced for cultivation in Malaysia towards 1500 B.C. In Cambodia, it is found in the spontaneous state on Phnom Kulen. Tree cultivated for its almost free arillus fruit. The fresh fruits are rich in A and B vitamins not found in dried fruits. The seed is used in traditional medicine against intestinal diseases. The green fruit is used against the smallpox. The decoctions of the flowers, barks and roots would be effective against the diseases of the throat.
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
6�
eck Musal eckEdlCadMNaMCaBUCbgáat;eRcIn
tMNNas; ehIyeyIgBuMGac[eQµaH
viTüasa®sþ)aneLIy. BUCEdlduHkñúgéRB
manEpøkñúgRKab;CaeRcIn briePaKmin)aneT
manduHenAGasuIEpñkGaeKñy_ kñúgRbeTs
\NÐaxagekIt elIekaHsUm:aRta elIekaH
y:av:a. enARbeTsExµrmaneckBUCbgáat;
eRcInNas; eckNaMva eckBgman; eck
sñab;mux eckCVa.l. eckCVa manRKab;
EtbriePaK)an. edImecknigKl;eKeRcIn
eRbICacMNIRCUk EtmnusSk¾briePaK
)anEdr. páa¬RtyUgeck¦ eRbIeFVIbEnø
b¤Gnøk;.l.
All the cultivated banana trees are hybrids repeated natural crossings the parents of which became not recognizable The first wild banana trees, with fruits full of seeds, are numerous. The main of these are Musa acuminata Colla, born somewhere in Southeast Asia, Musa balbi siana Colla, born, in the oriental part of India the Musa halabanensis Meijer, born in the western part of Sumatra and Musa salaccensis Zoll. native either of Sumatra or Java.
�0 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
In Cambodia there is a very large number of cultivated species “chék nam’va” “chék pong moën” (hen’s egg banana tree) “chék âmbông” ”chék nuon” chék snab muk chék chhvie (Malay banana tree) This last one has fruits still provided with seeds but edible while those of the wild banana trees are not.
The leaves of banana trees are used as packaging to wrap goods various cakes, rice etc. The trunk is edible as well as the tree stumps At normal time, they are used to feed pigs The young inflorescences “trâyông chék” freed of their large coloured bracts, are much valued as vegetables.
77
Gm<il)araMg Albizia saman (Jack) F.Muell
Gm<il)araMgCarukçCatimanedImkMeNIt
kñúgRsuk GaemrikekþA. eKdaMenARsuk
GaRhVic nig GasuICa lMGtampøÚv b¤sRmab;
møb;RCkCitpÞH. søwkx©I² GaceFVIGnøk;eBl
TurÖwkS. Epøk¾briePaK)anEdr.
Rain tree has its origin in tropical America cultivated in Asia and Africa as ornamental and as shade tree In time of shortage the young leaves has been eaten in salads The fruit is edible
61bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
8�
xñúr Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam.
xñúr CaedImeQItUcmanedImkMeNItenA
RbeTsCVa eKEtgdaMrukçCatienHBaseBj
RbeTsGasuIEpñkekþA. EpøxñúrmanrsCati
q¶aj;Nas;. mandak;lk;kñúgpSar RsukExµr
eKlk;EpøTaMgmUl b¤citCacMNit. enA
breTsmansac;xñúrlk;CaGaharRbGb;.
edImxñúr eKykeFVI tu TU nig eRKÓgePøg.
Small tree native to Malaya cultivated everywhere in the tropic for its edible fruits which may be sold on markets fresh or in preserve. Seeds rich in fecule are edible boiled or fired. Jack wood is used for furniture and for manufacture of music instruments.
99
es<A Aglaia leptantha Mig esþAPñMCaedImeQIkMBs;BI 20-30 m
eRcInduHelI PñMkñúgRbeTsExµr nig evotNam
xagt,Úg. søwk nigpáax©IGacbriePaK)andUc
esþAFmµtaEdr. eQIBN’ Rkhmmankøin
RkGUb lk;)antMélNas;. eKeRbIeQI
esþAPñMCMnYs c½nÞRKWsña)anxøH². RKUfñaM
yksMbk eTAes¶aredIm,I[GñkmanCMgWRKun
pwk. eBTüstV es¶arsMbk[eKa RkbIpwk
edIm,I[vasuIesµA)aneRcInqab;Fat;FM.
�2 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
Tree, 20-35 m tall restricted to mountain forest in Cambodia and in south-Vietnam Yong leaves and flowers are eaten in salads, like that of the genuine “Sdau” (Azadiracta indica) Red wood , fragrant used as incense like the genuine santal wood In local medi-cine the bark decoction is drunk against fever The same decoction given to oxes or buffaloes may increase their appetite.
1010
dUg Cocos nuciferal. eQµaHRBwkSm:üagsnþan søa etñat
kMBs; 2-30 m manedImkMeNItkñúgTVIb
GasuIeKsÁal;dUgCit 4 Ban;qñaMehIyenA
RbeTscin ¬kñúgkMNaBücinmYy eKeXIj
maneQµaHdUg kMNaBüsresrRbEhl
2 Ban;qñaMmunRBHeys‘U¦. dUgmaneRcIn
RbeTsNas; EteQñaHviTüasa®sþenA
dEdlmandUgePø Ig dUgtwkEk dUgxÞ iH
dUgsmø.l. edImdUgRbeyaCn_Nas;
sø wksRmab;eFV Id Mb UlpÞHb¤sg;erageFV I
buNü.l. páadUg eBlxøHeKeRbI
CMnYspáasøa kñúgBiFIGaBah_BiBah_. EpøeK
eRbI)aneRcInRbePTNas; TwkdUgCaePsC¢³
l¥Nas; sac;dUgx©IeKbriePaKCamYyTwk
sac;cas;Rc)ac;ykxÞiHsø eFVIbEg¥mepSg²
63bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
b¤es¶ar eFVIeRbg. RskIdUgeKEtgykeFVI
GMe)as. eBTüburaNeRbIb¤sdUg sRmab;
pSMfñaMBüa)alCm¶WraKmYl. RteLakdUg
eKdutkñúgepHekþA[ecjC½r C½renHeRbIsRmab;
lab[)at;QWeFµj.
Tree, 2-30 m tall, monocaulous, of Asian origin, cultivated at present in the warm countries of the world. It appeared some �000 year ago (the1st mention of a coconut palm in China is found in a Chinese poem of the 20th century B.C) There are numerous varieties or cultivated forms.
All the parts of the coconut palm are useful. The leaves are used for covering the houses or for decorating climbing frames and meeting rooms. The flowers are some-times used in the wedding ceremonies. The most used part is the fruit, or coconut which water (liquic albumen) makes a soft drink. The copra (solid albumen) gives an oil with multiple uses (cooking, cosmetic...) The fibrous envelope of the fruit is used generally to make brooms. In traditional medicine, the roots of the coconut palm are said to be to effective against dysentery. The nut freed of its fibers, burned on warm ashes let exudate an oily material used to calm dental pains.
�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
1111
nenag Luffa acutangula (L) Roxb
eQµaHvlø×dMNaMeLIgeRTIg kMeNItenAkñúg
RbeTs\NÐa eKdaMykEpøCaGahar Epørag
dUcemagman 10 RCugRsYc² eKeRbIEpø
eFVImðÚb)aneRcInmux. kñúgk,Ün»sfburaN
eKbuksøwkbMeBakelImuxrbYs[qab;Ca.
EpøCafñaMeFVI[enameRcIn.
Liana, vague origin, cultivated in all tropical regions of the world, for the fruits cylindrical. edible used as vegetable in various culinary preparations The dried out ripe fruits are used as sponges In traditional medical, the leaves are used in external application against the hurts of shingles. The fruits could favor the milky secretion of young mothers and activate the blood circulation. The roots are said to be purgative.
1212
Cm<ÚRClk; Bixa orellanal edImenHCaculøRBwkSmankMBs; 2 eTA
8m eKnaMBI RsukGaemricekþA ykmkdaM
CuMvijeKhdæan[l¥emIl. RKab;Cm<ÚRClk;
manCatiBN’Rkhm layBN’elÓgPøav
sMrab;RClk;sMBt;Gavb¤rbs; epSg².
søwkeKdaMTwkgUt b¤RtaMeBlekItCMgWRKuncaj;
RKunmanBisEs,k b¤RKunekþAepSg².
6�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
Shrub. 2-� m tall, native to tropical America, introduced to Cambodia, cultivated near dwelling as decorative plant. The seeds yield a red colouring used as stain. In traditional medicine, the leaves have the reputation, while used for lotions or baths, to be effective against paludism eruptive fever and other forms of fever.
1313
mn Morus albal culøRBwkSkMBs; 3 eTA 7 m naMBIRsuk
cinkNþal nigxaglicmkdaMRKb;RbeTs
énGasuIEpñkGaeKñy_ TVIbGuWr:ub nig Gaemrik
xageCIg. edImCaBUCbgáat;BI BUCmnFM
eKdaMsRmab;yksøwk eRbICacMNIdgáÚvnag
eFVIsURt. RKUfñaMburaNeRbIsøwkmnFM pSMeFVI
fñaMBüa)al Cm¶WEPñkRkhm nwgsRmab;
lagdMe)AepSg². sMbkCafñaMkmøaMgnig
Tb;mineGayraKCaedIm.
Shrub, 3-7 m tall, originating from the central and oriental part of China, introduced and naturalized in Southeast Asia, Europe and North America. Varieties of this species are used for the breed of silkworms (Bombyx mori). In traditional medicine, the leaves are a component of a remedy against the conjunctivitis. The are also used for the treatment of the wounds. The barks are considered as fortifying and astringent.
�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
141�
RBhUt Garcinia vilersiana Pierre
RBhUtCaRBwkSkMBs; 10 eTA 15 m
duHkñúg é®BRkas;énRbeTséf Exµr lav nig
evotNamxag t,Üg. sMbksRmab;eFVIfñaM
RClk;sMBt;l¥RbNit [manBN’elOg.
RKUhµExµryksMbkRBhUt layCamYy
sMbkRTmUg eFVIfñaMbMeBakelIédeCIgeRKc.
eQImanBN’ s elOgeRbIsRmab;sg;pÞH.
Tree, 10-15 m tall, originating from the dense forests of Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Southern Vietnam. The bark gives the best yellow dye of Southeast Asia. In traditional Khmer medicine, the barks, associated to those of “tromu:ng” (G. oilveri Peter) are used to make poultices applied on the sprains. The wood, white yellowish, is used for construction.
1515
Gm<il Tamarindus indical RBwkStUcm:üagkMBs; 8 eTA 15 m
edImkMeNItkñúg TVIbGaRhVik b¤RbeTs\NÐa
eKniymdaMenA RKb; RbeTsekþAénsklelak
CarukçCatimanRbeyaCn_ nwg [møb;pg.
søwkx©I²nig EpøeKeRbIsRmab;eFIVeRKÓgeTsCUr.
RKab;GaclIgnigeFVIbEg¥m)an. eQIsRmab;
sg;pÞH. eKes¶arsMbkpwkCafñaMraK. man
BUCGm<ilEp¥meRcInduHkñúgRbeTséf.
6�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
Small tree, �-15 m tall, originating from India or Africa, cultivated in all tropical regions of the world as shadow, decorative and utilitarian plant. The young leaves and fruits are used in culinary preparations as acid elements. The seeds are used to cook a sweet dishes. Wood is used in construction. The decoction of the barks would be effective against diarrhoea. This is a variety of tamarind with sweet fruits met especially in Thailand.
161�
sñÜl Dalbergia nigrescens Kurz var. saigonensis (pierre) Gagnep.
eQµaHRBwkSmYyRbePTkMBs; 10 eTA
20 m duHkñúg éRBeRsag nig éRBel,aH
kñúgTVIb\NÐÚcin. Epøx©I² GacbriePaK)an.
RKab;TuMeKlIgehIykin[m:t; qugpwkdUc
kaehV. eQIsñÜleKeRbI sRmab;sg;pÞH
nigeFVIvtßúepSg².
The roasted seeds give a drink evoking coffee. The wood is used in woodwork. In traditional medicine, the leaves crushed with salt are used to heal the wounds of oxen (caused by the yoke) the old leaves give a black paint.
�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>r No
eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name
eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name
lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features
1717
pÞIbnøa Amaranthus spinosusl.
CaesµARbcaMqñaM duHCitpÞHkñúgRbeTsekþA
sklelak. søwk nigFagx©IeKykeFVIsmø
b¤qa dUcpÞIFMEdr. søwk nigb¤s sRmab;eFVI
fñaMrMgab;eraKepSg² k¾)aneKykb£ses¶ar
layTgetñat[xab;EmnETn edIm,Iykmk
s¥MrMgab;eraKsnøak;q¥wg b¤eraKs,Ún. eKbuk
eGayl¥iteFVIfñaMbMeBakelIrbYsEqáxaM.
Annual herb which grows near villages in tropics. Young leaves are eaten like spinach. Leaves and roots are often used as poultices to cure some wounds, especially those caused by dog bite. The roots infusion would be diuretic. Associate with “thnot” roots (Borassus flabellifer) the roots are used as poultices against rheumatism and some forms of tuberculosis.
6�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
sTÞanuRkmtm,ajTechnical terms
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
1
1
kkI n CavtßúmYyrbs;kItm,aj sRmab;RTeQI
pSMEdlsßitenARtg;k,alkI Kg; Kn§arI
1994Loom neck n. A loom tool, used to support joined wood, which is placed at the head of the loom.
2
2
kI n ]bkrN_sRmab;t,aj hUl pamYg Rkma
b¤sMBt;CaedIm Kg; Kn§arI
1994Loom n. A tool, used to weave hol, phamuong, scarves or clothes
3
3
kIhUt n Ca]bkrN_sRmab;t,aj EdleKtemøIg
vaedayeRbIvIs Kg; Kn§arI
1994Drawing loom n. A weaving tool which is assembled using screws.
4
�
kUnhk; n Ca]bkrN_mYyeFVIGMBIeQI b¤k¾b£sSImYy
Evg Edlman RsyUvsRmab;s‘ksrés
sURtenAeBlGnÞgKg; Kn§arI
1994Konhoak n. A long wooden or bamboo tool which
contains a ring to insert silk during the weaving process.
5
5
kUnkMRBa n kg; b¤kMNat;b£sSIsRmab;s‘k nwgRB½RtExS
vlø× GMe)aH ehIymYlrwt[twg b¤[maM Kg; Kn§arI
1994Konkampria(orphan)
n. A piece of bamboo inserted with vine or silk and tied firmly.
6 kUnGnÞg n kUneQI b¤EdktUc² EdleKdaMnwgbnÞHeQI
FMsRmab;f<k;GMe)aHGnÞg Ca BisI
1994Konangtorng n. A small strip of wood or metal which has a big wood plank, used to weave silk.
70 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
7
7
kYt ki eFVI[søab;sac; eFVI[rabTab³ kYtGMe)aHCa BisI
1994Kuot v. To flatten; to smooth
8
�
kUy n CaBakürbs;GñkRsukniymehAenAeBl
EdldgáÚvnagFMTuM Kg; Kn§arI
1994Koy n. A dialect word people used to call a silkworm when it has already produced a cocoon.
9
9
kaMbitsøa n KWCaBakümYyEdleKsmÁal;kaMbitbt;
eRbIR)as;kñúgkart,aj Kg; Kn§arI
1994Areca knife n. A type of knife (fold knife) used in weaving.
10
10
knÞúykI b¤ cugkI n EpñkxageRkayénkIRtg;kEnøgkþarmUrGMe)aHCa BisI
1994Loom rear n. The back of the loom which is placed at the thread rolling board.
11
11
kþatgár b¤
kþarfár
n CabnÞHeQItUclµmsRmab;RkgRbTak;
GMe)aHeqAfármuneBlt,aj Ca BisI
1994Thkor board n. A medium board, used to braid silk before weaving.
12
12
kþarmUr n CabnÞHeQIsMEb:tEvglµm eRbIwRmab;mUr
sésGMe)aHEdlGnÞgehIy Ca BisI
1994Rolling board n. A wooden board (of medium length), used to roll up silk that has already been woven.
�1bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
13
13
kþareKaHkI n sRmab;eKaHenAeBlEdle)aHRtl;[rt;
mþg²ehIy edIm,I[sac;Rkma b¤sMBt;hab; Ca BisI
1994Kuoh Key board n. A wooden board, use to knock scarf or cloth to make it well stuffed.
14
1�
k,alkI n EpñkxagedIménkIRtg;kEnøgEdlGgÁúyt,aj
Kg; Kn§arI
1994Head of the loom n. The beginning part of the loom where the
weaver sits.
15
15
k,in n KWCaknÞúysMBt;. eBlNaEdleKniyayfa
esøóksMBt;cgk,in KWmann½yfa eKmUrCay
sMBt;cukmkxagelIKg; Kn§arI
1994Kbin n. The cloth measure, also a kind of Khmer
clothing.
16
1�
Rkma n CasMBt;t,ajedayGMe)aH
manRkLa ExVg sRmab;pøas;gUtTwk Ca BisI
1994Scarf n. A kind of cloth, made from cotton or silk and woven with a checked pattern, which is used for bathing.
17
17
eRkaH Ku s¶Ütb¤g eRkómRkTaMgKg; Kn§arI
1994Armor adj. Dry (not humid)
18
1�
xñar n Rbdab;sRmab;xarGMe)aH b¤sURtCa BisI
1994khnar n. A tool used to roll up silk for weaving.
72 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
19
19
KRmbeFµjeQI n CabnÞHkþarmank,ac;enAcugsgxag ragCa
knÞúyhgSsRmab;KabeFµjeQI[twgmaM Ca BisI
1994Cover of wooden comb
n. A plank with hang (mythical bird)-tail decorations on both sides, used for pressing the comb firmly.
20
20
eXø n eQµaHedImrnammYyRbePTmancnøa
sRmab;ykxøwmes¶arRClk;sURt Kg; Kn§arI
1994Khle n. A name of a thorny tree in flood forest, whose leaves are boiled to create a silk dye.
21
21
cagNag n CasmÖar³mü:agEdleKBüÜrcenøaHCYrtgár
ehIynwgr:k Kg; Kn§arI
1994Chang-Nang n. A tool which is hung between the dangkor and the pulley.
22
22
cMBYc n CaBaküGñkRsukehA KWmann½yfaGMe)aH
mYyduM Edl)anBIkarrévkñúgrhat;kug
EtsBVéf¶GMe)aHduMtUc² b:unRmamédEdl
eKcgcugk¾eKehAfacMBYcEdr
Ca BisI
1994Champuoch n. A pice of cotton or silk threads after
spinned, but today a piece of cotton thread as big as a thumb, with its end tied is also called champuoch too.
23
23
CrCay n BaküenHsmÁal;CaysMBt;pamYg EdleK
lm¥rcnaEbøkBIépÞkNþalénsMBt; Kg; Kn§arI
1994Hem decoration n. This is used so you notice the hem of phamuong, which is decorated in a pattern different from the main section.
�3bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
24
2�
eCIgkI n KWCaeQI 4 kMNat; sRmab;RTemkI Kg; Kn§arI
1994Loom foot n. The four pieces of wood to support the loom.
25
25
CnÞal; n eRbIsRmab;xÞas;EjkRkma b¤sMBt;
Edlt,aj)an[twgl¥ Ca BisI
1994Supportter n. A tool used to separate a woven scarf or cloth.
26
2�
eQIekaH n CaeQImYyduM dUceQIpSM Edlman
RsyUv4. eKeRbIvaCMnYseQIpSM
enAeBlcab;epþImt,ajdMbUg Kg; Kn§arI
1994Koh wood n. A piece of wood, like joined wood, which has four rings. It is used to replace joined wood when the weaving starts.
27
27
eQIdMrwg n eQIdMrIgrbs;kItm,ajman 4 EdleK
eRbIR)as;sRmab;RTFñwg Kg; Kn§arI
1994Damroeung wood n. There are four damroeung wood to support the crossbar.
28 eQIFñwm n KWeQImYykMNat;sRmab;Tb;ExSqµar.
eRbICab;nwg eCIgRTTAMgbYnrbs;kI CaCMnYy
[rwgmaM nigRTeQIra sRmab;rujfáreTAmux
b¤fyeRkayKg; Kn§arI
1994Wooden crossbar n. A piece of wood to obstruct fine threads,
used with a four-foot loom in order to make it firmer to support rea wood to push the thkor back and forwards.
7� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
29
29
eQI rwt n KWCakMNat;eQImUlEvgmYyedIm dak;enA
xagcugkI Edlf<k;Cab;nwgkþarrmUreday
exñaHEdk 2. eRbIsRmab;rwtsrés
GMe)aHEdlmUrbBa©Úlkþar EdlenAknÞúy
kIenaH[twgl¥
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Wooden
tightening tool
n. A long round piece of wood placed at the end of loom, hooked with rolling wood with two iron shackles. The weaver uses it to tighten the silk in the rolling wood at the loom tail.
30
30
eQIra n CaeRKÓgt,ajeFVIBIb£sSIeRbIenAeBlmUr
GMe)aHEbbsm½yburaN edIm,ICaCMnYy[
srésGMe)aHtwgl¥ nigeRbIenAeBlt,aj
CaeRKÓgtgárEdldak;elIeQI FñwmCa BisI
1994Rea wood n. A weaving tool, made of bamboo, in the
past used to roll up silk to tighten it; and is the dangkor tool, which is put on the crossbar.
31
31
eQIpSM n eRKÓgRbdab; sRmab;mUrRkma b¤sMBt;
és, Edlt,aj)an eKehAm:üageTotfa
pSMmUrCa BisI
1994Joined wood n. A tool to roll up a scarf or cloth which has
already been woven, also called phsam-mou.
32 eQIQñan; n eQIsRmab;Can; [tgárebIkbiTCa BisI
1994Pedal wood n. A wooden pedal to control the dangkor
(open and close).
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
33
33
eQI b¤dgGnÞg n eQIsRmab;GnÞgGMe)aH b¤sURt {buraN}Ca BisI
1994Woven wood n. A wooden tool was used to weave cotton and silk in the past.
34
3�
dam n eQµaHeRKÓgtRmajmansNæan
CmsMEb:tEvg sRmab;s‘kxÞas;GMe)aH
b¤sURtGnÞg EjkmuxkuM[ B½n§RcLMKña
b¤ehAm:üageTotfa damsMEb:tCa BisI
1994Streaking wood n. A long and flat weaving tool used to insert
and divide silk from side to side. It is also called flat streaking wood.
35
35
damkMeNIt n KWCadamEdleFVIGMBIb£sSIy:agesþIg
EdleKeRbIR)as;vasRmab;Tb;eRkaHtm,aj Kg; Kn§arI
1994Original streaking wood
n. A thin tool made of bamboo used to obstruct kroh.
36
3�
dammUr n KWCadamEdleFVIGMBIb£sSI b¤ eQI
ehIyEdlsßitenAxagcugénkItm,aj Kg; Kn§arI
1994Round streaking wood
n. A tool made of wood or bamboo, placed at the end of the loom.
37
37
damerIs n Cadamm:üag EdleFVIGMBIbnÞHb£sSIesþIg²
eKeRbIR)as; vasRmab;erIssréssURt
ykeTAfár
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Select streaking wood
n. A thin tool made of bamboo used to select silk threads.
7� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
38
3�
damnaM n KWmansNæandUcCadammUrEdr EdleK
eRbIvaenAkñúgeBlt,aj enAeBlEdreK
RtUvkarmUr. sRmab;eRbI eBlmUrGMe)aH
GnÞg eKnaMdamsMEb:teTAmuxmun nigmUr
kuM[CMBak;Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Guide streaking wood
n. This is similar to round streaking wood, and is used in weaving when the weaver needs to roll up silk. The weaver first brings guide streaking wood then rolls up silk to avoid tangling.
39
39
zan n CaépÞGMe)aHlatesµIEdlenAelIkICa BisI
1994Tharn n. This is the even silk surface in the loom.
40
�0
tgár n ExSGMe)aHqµarsRmab;fárt,ajCa BisI
1994Dangkor n. A fine thread, used for thkor.
41
�1
tm,aj ki xÞas;ecsGMe)aH[ekItCasMBt;
b¤xÞas;GVI²[ekItCa l¥I keBa¢I >>> Ca BisI
1994Weaving v. Mix threads or other things to make clothes, baskets, bags, etc.
42
�2
Rtedakkþar ki eRbIsRmab;CUyTb;eQI rwt
nwgknÞúykI[kþarmUr b¤hugmUrtwgminrGil Ca BisI
1994Wooden wedge v. This is used to help tighten wood and the loom rear to keep the rolling board or spool from slipping around.
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
43
�3
Rtl; n Rbdab;eFVIedayBk {b£sSIBk} b¤eQI
nagnYnsRmab;dak;xñarEdlxarGMe)aHCa BisI
1994Troal n. This is made of pork (a kind of bamboo) or neangnuon ( a name of hight value tree) to support silk spools.
44
��
Rtk ki CaskmµPaBmYy EdleFVI[sréssURt
rIkFMeLIg edayeRbIR)as;Bk b¤ damKas;
edIm,I[gayRsYldak;km<s;Rtk Kg; Kn§arI
1994Trork v. An action to make silk bigger by using pork or streaked wood or lifted streaked wood to make it easier to set the level of trork.
45
�5
RtsURt ki CaBakümYyEdleK)anCYbRbTHenApÞHGñk
t,aj kñúgextþtaEkv nigtMbn;epSg²eTot
Epñkxagt,ÚgénRbeTs Kg; Kn§arI
1994Trosotr v. This means country. We see this word used in Takeo province and other parts of southern Cambodia.
46
��
fár ki qVak;tgárt,ajCa BisI
1994Thkor v. To tie silk for weaving.
47
�7
ef<c ki pÞat;temþc³ ef<ckb,asCa BisI
1994Card v. To make line or threads.
7� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
48
��
Twkk,úg n )anmkBIkarkemøacpÞI b¤KrCaedIm
sRmab;yk TwkéRblagrbs;epSg²
b¤laynwgmr[køayCaFøHCa BisI
1994Potash water n. This is made from ashes (Amaranthus
spinosus L. Kapok ) to wash something or mix with mor to become dhlah.
49
�9
Twk)ay n TwikBN’sxab;Gn§il )anmkedaysar
)ay b¤ emSAmI EdleKykmk[)ay
sURt edIm,I[kart,ajrGil)anRsYlKg; Kn§arI
1994Toek bay n. Thick and white water from rice or casava
powder, which softens silk for weaving.
50
50
eFµjekas n KWCaRbePTeFµjeQIm:üag EdleFµj
rbs;vaeFVIGMBIbnÞHb£sSIesþIg²ehIyjwkKg; Kn§arI
1994
Scraped comb n. Thin and dense comb made of bamboo.
51
51
eFµjeQI n KWCa]bkrN_m:üag EdlmanragdUcCa
sñitsitéc sRmab;ykmkeRbIR)as;kñúg
kart,aj sRmab; bBa©ÚlsrésGnÞg
nwg kasbBa©Úlcak;tm,aj
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Wooden comb n. A tool like our hair comb, used for weaving.
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
52
52
eFµjRsav n CaeFµjeQIm:üag EdleFµjrbs;vaeFVI
GMBIbnÞHb£sSIRkas; ehIyminsUvjwkKg; Kn§arI
1994Slender comb n. Loose comb made of bamboo.
53
53
FøH n TwkRClk;manBN’exoveFVIBImr laynwg
Twkdak;kMe)ars³ sMBt;RClk;FøHBN’FøH Kg; Kn§arI
1994Dhlah n. Dyeing liquid (blue) was made of Mor and mixed with shell lime liquid.
54
5�
FøHéRb n KWCaFøHm:üag EdleKdak;kMe)ar nigTwk
b:UtaseRcInelIslb; Kg; Kn§arI
1994Salty Dhlah n. A kind of dhlah added with excessive lime and potash liquid.
55
55
FøHsab n KWCaFøHm:üag EdleKdak;kMe)ar nigTwk
b:UtasmminRKb;RKan; Kg; Kn§arI
1994Bland Dhlah n. A kind of dhlah that was not sufficiently added with lime and potash liquid.
56
5�
naLi Ku KWCaxñatTm¶n;buraN EdlmanTm¶n;esµInwg
650 Rkam
Kg; Kn§arI
1994Neal adj. A weight measurement equal �50 grams.
57
57
e)ak ki KWCaskmµPaBm:üag kñúgeBlRClk;BN’sURt
edIm,I[BN’Cab;eTAnwgsréssURt)anl¥ Kg; Kn§arI
1994Beat v. An action to make the silk thread absorb the color dyes.
�0 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
58
5�
bnÞMl½x ki KWeKTukl½x[enAelIedImeQI rhUtdl;
l½x)anTuMl¥ Kg; Kn§arI
1994Bantum leak v. To keep red dye on trees until it is ripe, and ready to yield high quality dye.
59
59
RbemakTwkk,úg ki KWCaskmµPaBlagsréssURteqA
CamYynwgTwk b:Utas Kg; Kn§arI
1994Beating with potash water
v. An action to wash raw silk with potash water.
60
�0
ERbg n CaRbePTRcasBiessm:üag EdleK
eRbIR)as;vasRmab;[)aysURtenA
eBlt,ajKg; Kn§arI
1994Braeng n. A special comb which is used to apply
when weaving.
61
�1
paDib n {pa³ sMBt; Dib³ eqA}= sMBt;eqA
EdleKt,aj edayGMe)aHeqA\t[
)ayCUreT Ca BisI
1994Phadib n. Pha means cloth; dib means raw; [together] means raw cloth weaving without giving sour rice.
62
�2
pur ki x<úr xSúlecj resaHecjBIhug³ GMe)aHpurCa BisI
1994To be bubbling v. This refers to cotton or silk threads that
have rolled out of spools.
63
�3
pamYg n CasMBt;sURtm:üag ¬EdlkøaymkBIBakü
esom³ paERbfasMBt; mYg ERbfa
BN’sVay¦
Kg; Kn§arI
1994Phamuong n. A kind of cloth (derived from a Siam word,
pha means cloth and muong means violet).
81bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
64
��
pþÜlBN’ ki KWCaskmµPaBRClk;BN’sURtCamYynwg
RBhUt munnwgeKRClk;BN’epSg²eTot Kg; Kn§arI
1994To dye v. Action to dye silk with prahout color first before dyeing with other colors.
65
�5
epþkmekøÓ ki KWeKRClk;mekøÓ
Kg; Kn§arI
1994To dye with makhloeur
v. Dyeing with makhloeur (black color).
66
��
épÞ n KWCaEpñkkNþáalénsMBt; EdlminEmn
CaeCIgKg; Kn§arI
1994Surface n. The main part of cloth, not the hem.
67
�7
pSM n KWCa]bkrN¾mYyrbs;kI eFVIGMBIkMNat;
eQIrag 4 RCug Rmab;mUrsMBt;enA
eBlt,aj Kg; Kn§arI
1994Joining wood n. A spare part of the loom, which is made from quadrilateral-shape wood and used for rolling up cloth after it is woven.
68
��
Bk b¤ damKas; n Ca]bkrN¾m:üagedleFVIGMBIb£sSI b¤eQI
sRmab;bMe):agépÞsréssURtenAeBlfár
EdleK)anEckrYcmkehIy edaysar
damerIs
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Pork or pry up streaking wood
n. A tool made of wood or bamboo, used for swelling the silk surface when they had thkor by select streaking wood.
�2 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
69
�9
Bidan n CasMBt;hUlm:üagsRmab;eRbIR)as;kñúg
sasna. eKminEdlykBidanmkkat;Ca
semøókbMBak;eT Kg; Kn§arI
1994Pidan (Ceiling) n. A kind of hol used in religious ceremonies. We never dress this kind of cloth.
70
70
B½n§mUl n eQImYyKUsRmab;dak;p¥bkþarmUrtm,aj
P¢ab;srésGnÞg Ca BisI
1994Round wood n. A pair of wood pieces placed next to rolling wood.
71
71
Bak;dam ki Bak;GMe)aHnigkUnGnÞgedayExVgRmaméd
Ca BisI
1994hang streaking wood
v. To hang silk thread and kon antorng by crossing fingers.
72
72
mr ¬m¦ n Pk;EdlekItGMBITwkRtaMedImRtuM RBmTaMg
søwkRtuMRss;pg [rlYyehIykUr[xHkk
mansm,úrexµA exoveTACaFøHsRmab;eRbI
CaeRKÓgRClk;.Kg; Kn§arI
1994Mor n. Mud resulingd from the soaked trom tree,
which is kept until rotten and stirred until it is dark blue [and suitable] for dyeing.
73
73
m¢ÜréRB Ku KWCaTwkm¢ÚrEdl)anmkGMBIedImeQI søwk
nigEpøeQI EdlduHenAkñúgéRB Kg; Kn§arI
1994Wild sour spice adj. This is made from a wild tree, leaves and fruits.
83bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
74
7�
rgeCIg n KWCaEpñkxagkñúgcugCaysMBt; Kg; Kn§arI
1994Rong choeung n. This is the end part of the hem.
75
75
révKYbmuxsURt ki KWCabec©keTs yksréssURteRcIn
mkbRgYmcUlKña [eTACamYysrésFM
lµmGaceRbIR)as;)anKg; Kn§arI
1994Combining silk hair thread
v. A technique to bring many silk threads together as desired.
76
7�
rév[xµaj; n KWCabec©eTsm:üag EdleKeFVIbnÞab;BIkar
révKYbmux edIm,IeFVI[sréssURt
eLIgxµaj;l¥Kg; Kn§arI
1994To spin tightly n. A technique used after we have
interwoven silk threads firmly.
77
77
r:k n Rbdab;manePøA sNæanxUgCuMvij vil)an
FUrRsYl sRmab;s‘kExS b¤BYrTajGVI²
eyageLIg b¤sRmUtcuHedaygay³
r:kknÞúyhgS r:kpáacan; eRbIsRmab;Taj
tgár[ehIbKg; Kn§arI
1994Pulley n. A tool which has two poles with a hollow
shape, and holes through which we can insert a line to pull things up and down easily.
�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
78
7�
rgVwg n Rbdab;mansøabeFVIeday b¤sSImanePøA
manéd sNæanCarhat;FMx<s;eRsag
maneCIgx<s;sRmab; B½T§sURt b¤GMe)aH
søabrgVwg eCIgrgVwg
Kg; Kn§arI
1994Rongvoeung n. A tool made of bamboo in a wheel shape
with long food and handles for linking the threads.
79
79
erIs ki Rsal;eRCIs sRmaMgyktameBjcitþ
b¤tamRtUvkar Kg; Kn§arI
1994select v. To choose materials.
80
�0
rhat; n Rbdab;sRmab;rév xar RsUb evj
maneRcInEbb³ rhat;rév ¬sURt¦ Kg; Kn§arI
1994Rohat n. A kind of spinning device; a tool used for rolling up, spinning, twisting threads, etc.
81
�1
rm¶as; ki KWdaMTwk[BuHy:agyUr nUvvtßúFatuedIm[
ecjCaBN’ EdleKRtUvkar Kg; Kn§arI
1994Decoct v. To cook dyeing materials for a long time to get colors.
82
�2
l½x n kñúgPasaGñkt,aj l½xeKsmÁal;vtßúFatu
TaMgLayNa GaceFVI[sURtman
BN’epSg²Kg; Kn§arI
1994Leak (color) n. In weaving technique, leak means all
materials that can color silk.
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
83
�3
l½xRCuH n KWenAeBlEdll½xgab;
ehIyekIteLIgsarCafµI xøÜnvay:ageRcInKg; Kn§arI
1994Dropping leak n. This is said when insects that produce red dye die and re-birth in large quantity.
84
��
el,Ik n KWCasMBt;sURtExSsy Twkmas
b¤TwkR)ak; mankUn páatUc² Kg; Kn§arI
1994Lboeuk n. A kind of cloth made from golden or silver braid in the patterns of the small flowers.
85
�5
edImsEgá n KWCaedImeQIm:üagduHkñúgéRBtUc² EdleK
ykedImrbs;vaeTAeFVICaGusdutepH
sRmab;plitTwkk,úg nigsøwkrbs;va
sRmab;GñkERsmUr)arICk; Kg; Kn§arI
1994Sangke tree n. A tree that growths in sparse forest, which
can be used as firewood. Its ashes can produce potash water and some people use its leaves to roll cigarettes.
86
��
sar)ab;
¬sar:³¦
n ¬kø> Cr)ab;¦ eQµaHsMBt;mansac;Rkas;F¶n;
t,ajeday sURtlayExSsyTwkmas
b¤TwkR)ak;edayelIkCa eKamrMelceday
k,ac;rcna CasMBt;mantémøeRcIn³
sMBt;sar)ab;¬ehAcr)ab; b¤car)ab;¦
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Sarabab n. A kind of thick cloth made from silk and gold or silver braid.
�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
87
�7
sURtk,al n KWsURteqA KuNPaBGn;bMput )anmk
GMBIdgáÚvnagmanCm¶W Kg; Kn§arI
1994Head of silk n. This is raw and low-quality silk. Sick silkworms produce this kind of silk.
88
��
sURtéd n KWsURteqAEdlmanKuNPaBTabKg; Kn§arI
1994hand silk n. This is raw and low-quality silk.
89
�9
sURtsac; n KWCasURteqA EdlmanKuNPaBl¥bMputKg; Kn§arI
1994Substantial silk n. The raw and high quality silk.
90
90
sURt s n KWsURt]sSahkmµEdlmanBN’sKg; Kn§arI
1994White silk n. This is industrialized silk which is white.
91
91
sURtRkhm n KWsURt]sSahkmµEdlmanBN’RkhmKg; Kn§arI
1994Red silk n. This is the red industrialized silk.
92
92
RsBab; Ku KWCakRmitEdleKhals¶ÜtbgÁÜr
Kg; Kn§arI
1994Partially dry adj. This is the level of exposing things to sun
and wind.
93
93
hugmUr n Rbdab;sRmab;mUrGMe)aHGnÞg mansNæan
dUcnwghugGMe)aHtUc²{Ebbsm½y} Kg; Kn§arI
1994Rolling spool n. A tool to roll silk or cotton thread that is similar to a small spool (modern).
8�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
94
9�
hUl n KWCasMBt;sURtm:üag Edlrcnaeday
k,ac;páa nigrUbFrNImaRtepSg²sRmab;
eRbIR)as;eFVICasemøókbMBak; Kg; Kn§arI
1994Hol n. A kind of silk cloth, which is decorated with flowers and other geometrical representations used for dressing.
95
95
Lt n KWCaxñarm:üag EdlmanxñatxøIbMputKg; Kn§arI
1994Tube n. A kind of bobbinet spool which is very short.
96
9�
GnÞg ki KWCabec©keTsmYyénkart,aj sRmab;
erobcMsréssURt eRkayeBlEdl)an
RClk;BN’rUc. naMsrésGMe)aH b¤sURt
eTAmk²erobcMGMe)aH[man beNþayKña
ehIymUredaykþarmUr dak;B½n§mUlnwgdam
edIm,Ifárt,aj³ GnÞgGMe)aH GnÞgsURt
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Weave v. A technique to prepare silk or cotton threads after they are dyed, bringing silk or cotton threads forward and back parallel and rolling them up around wood and streaking wood to thkor.
�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
97
97
GnøÜj n KWCasMBt;sURtm:üagEdlmanqñÚtbeNþay
BIelIcuH eRkam. kalNaeKniyayfasMBt;
hUlGnøÚj mann½yfa sMBt;hUlenaHmanrUb
qøas;Kña CamYynwgrUbqñÚt²cuHeRkamKg; Kn§arI
1994Checked cloth n. A kind of silk cloth that has stripes from
top to bottom. When people say checked hol this means the pictures and stripes alternate on the cloth surface.
98
9�
G½kSGnÞg ki eRKÓgRbdab;rbs;Exµr mYyRbePTeFVI
edayeQIxøwm mankaM manr)axñg man
sNæanmUl xageBaHmansNæansMEb:t
rayregVIl² cugTaMgBIrxagbBa©úH P¢ab;cugkaM
manePøAvil)an maneCIgRTmaM manéd
sRmab;kan;bgVil
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Spindle
v. A kind of Khmer tool that is made from heartwood with rainks, round crossbar and flat bottom. At the end of each poles, there are rainks, supporter and a handle for turning it around.
8�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
l>rNo
emBakü Primary word
fñak;Class
esckþIBnül;Explanation
eyagReference
99
99
GMe)aH n 1> CasréssMLIEdlrévrUcehIy man-
RbEvgEvg sRmab;t,ajRkma sMBt;
CaedIm CaGMe)aHeqA
2>CasrésGMe)aHplitecjBIeragcRkman
BN’ RKb;BN’ ehIyCab;maMnigmanPaB
relagCagGMe)aH EdleFVIedayéd
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Cotton n. 1.The raw cotton thread that is already spun for weaving scarves, etc.
2.The threads in various colors, produced in factories, which is firm and smoother than hand-made cotton thread.
100
100
[)ay ki [Twk)ay b¤bbr b¤emSAm:dælaynig
TwkeqA edIm,I[GMe)aHeqAkøayCaGMe)aH
q¥in manKuNPaBmaMCab;)anyUr
Kg; Kn§arI
1994
Giving rice v. The process to make raw cotton threads or silk become mature and has good quality.
90b
ec©keTsRCl
k;BN’F
mµCati nigKRm
Uplitkm
µtm,aj
sURtRb
éBNIExµr
Technique of Natural D
yeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in C
ambodia
90
�1bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigtRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNI
Tichnique of Natural During & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production
92 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
bBa¢IeQµaHGñkEdl)anpþl;smÖasn_
1> elakta Cin Eqm Gayu 65 qñaM enAPUmi)aTI XuMRkaMgFñg; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ta Chin Chem, 65, Bati village, Kraing Dhnung commune, Bati district, Takeo province 2> elakyay nU suxna Gayu 65qñaM enAPUmi)aT XuMRkaMgFñg; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Yeay Nou Sok Nea, 65, Bati village, Kraing Dhnung commune, Bati district, Takeo province
3> GñkmIg kUv saem:t Gayu 54 qñaM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Kov Samet, 54, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
4> bgRsI suINat Gayu 35 qñaM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Sinat, 35, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
5> elak qil sat Gayu 27 qñaM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Mr. Chil Sat, 27, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
6> GñkRsI RsImuM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Mom, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
7> GñkmIg ehg sM Gayu 50 qñaM PUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Heng Sam, 50, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
8> Duc suINan Gayu 25 qñaM PUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Duch Sinan, 25, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
9> GñkRsI Duc cnßa Gayu 21 qñaM PUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Duch Chantha, 21, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
10> GñkRsI tug esoveGg Gayu 42 qñaMPUmiTMnb; XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Tong Siev Eng, 41, Tumnob village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
11> GñkRsI sMrit Lag Gayu 42 qñaM PUmiTMnb; XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Samrit Lang, 42, Tumnob village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
List of interviewed people
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
12> elakyay Nag Gayu 65 qñaM PUmiTMnb; XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Yeay Neang, 65, Tumnob village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
13> GñkRsI sM suKaM Gayu 50 qñaM enAPUmiéB XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Sam Sukorm, 50, Pei village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province
14> elak sYg mij Gayu 34 qñaM enAPUmieQITal XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
CaRKUxagsib,kmµtm,aj enAGgÁkar CYK nigmanbTBiesaFn_CaeRcInEpñktm,aj
CaBiess EpñkBidan
Mr. Suong Mich, 34, Chheu Teal village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province. He is a teacher of silk weaving at CYK association and he specializes in Piden weaving.
15> elak Eg:t em:g Gayu 54 CaefAEkeFVIhUl pamYg sarugsURt enAPUmival
XuMkþaj; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv. elakCaGaCIvkrpg nwgsib,krpg ehIysñaéd
rbs;Kat;RtUv)anTTYlsÁal;y:agTUlaykñúgcMeNamGñkeRbIR)as;. sñaédTaMgenaH
mandak;lk;CaeRcIntUbkñúgpSarFMfµI CaBiesstUbelx 225-246-248
Mr. Nget Meng, 54, Veal village, Kdanh commune, Bati district, Takeo province. He is the whole seller and weaver of Hol, Phamuong and Sarong Sotr. His works are recognized in country and can be bought at Central Market especially houses No 245,246, 248 .
16> elakyay eRsg Rs‘un Gayu 75 qñaM enAPumiTMbn; XuMcMbk; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Yeay Sreng Srun, 75, Tumnob village, Chambak commune, Bati district, Takeo province
17> GñkRsI suxum Gayu 49 qñaM enAPUmiTMnb; XuMcMbk; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv
Ms. Sokhom, 49, Tumnob village, Chambak commune, Bati district, Takeo province
18> elakta Qa Qn Gayu 80 qñaM PUmiRtBaMgcMbk; ¬ehAkukedk¦ XuMCMrHeBn
RsuksMerag extþtaEkv
Ta Chea Chorn, 80, Trapeang Chambak ( called Kok Dek), Samreahpen commune, Samrong district, Takeo province
9� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
19> elakta Guwm Gayu 73 qñaMPUmikenSamGk XuMsMerag RsuksMerag extþtaEkv
Kat;CaGñkeFVIeFµjb£sSIEdlmanbTBiesaFn_CaeRcInqñaMknøgmkehIy taMgBImunsm½y
b:ul Bt eTAeTot
Ta Im, 73, Kansom Ork village, Samrong commune, Samrong district, Takeo province He produces bamboo comb since before Pol Pot’s regime
20> elakta b:U Gayu 81 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal
extþéRBEvg
Ta Po, 81, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
21> elakyay Kg; Gayu 76 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg
Yeay Kong, 76, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
22> mIg TI Gayu 52 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal
extþéRBEvg
Ms. Ty, 52, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
23> elakyay Lag Gayu 78 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal
extþéRBEvg
Yeay Lang, 78, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
24> elakyay TI éNRsuIm Gayu 67 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan
RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg
Yeay Ty Naysrim, 67, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
25> elak Lúg tughan Gayu 58 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan
RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg. elakCasib,krpg nwgGaCIvkrpg
Mr. Long Tong Han, 58, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province. He is a weaver and seller.
26> muIg sux exOn Gayu 52 qñaM enAPUmiekagTenø XuMelV RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg
Ms. Sok Khoeurn, 52, Kong Tonle village, Lve commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
28> elakRKÚ buRt Gayu 37 qñaM enApSarERBksENþk XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal
extþéRBEvg. sBVéf¶elakCamnusSEtmñak;Kt;enAXuMERBkc®gáanEdlenARClk;BN’
edayeRbIl½káExµr
Mr. Bot, 37, he lives at Prek Sandek market, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province. He is only weaver now inhis area to dye the silk using traditional colors
29> bgRsI pløI Gayu 35 qñaM enAPUmiekagTenø XuMelV RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg
Ms. Phally, 35, Kong Tonle village, Lve commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
30> elakyay pan Gayu 60 qñaM enAPUmiekagTenø XuMelV RsuksuIFrkNþal
extþéRBEvg CaGñkfársURt
Yeay Phan, 60, Kong Tonle village, Lve commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province
31> BU est Rsn; Gayu 53 qñaM enAPUmicugekaH XuMekaHdac; RsukmuxkMBUl extþkNþal
Mr. Set Sroan, 53, Chong Koh village, Koh Dach commune, Mukh Kampoul district, Kandal province
32> mIg sMGag Gayu 54 qñaM PUmik,alekaH XuMekaHdac; RsukmuxkMBUl extþkNþal
nig RbCaCnmYycMnYneTotEdlCasib,krtm,aj
Ms. Som Ang, 54, Kbal Koh village, Koh Dach commune, Mukh Kampoul district, Kandal province and other weavers.
9� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
bBa¢IÉksareyag
- kRmgÉksarsþIBI RbéBNI nigTMenomTmøab;Exµr BuT§sasnbNÐitü 1999
(Dictionary of Plants used in Cambodia, Prof. Dy Phon Pauline, 2000)
- viFIeFVIhUlrbs;®sþIExµr edayelak lI suvIr/ PñMeBj 1998
(Documentations on Khmer Tradition, The Buddhist Institute, 1999)
- esovePAsikSasþIGMBIExµr k,ac;hUl pamYg sURt bUraNExµredaysm<½n§ sib,kmµ
km<úCa nig GñkRsI R)agÁ sun/PñMeBj
(Method to produce Hol of Khmer women, Ly Sovy, Phnom Penh 199�)
- tm,ajRkmaExµr edayk> Ca BisI/PñMeBj 1994
(Book on Lantern study of old khmer Hol, Phamuong, Silk by Cambodia Craft Corporation and Ms. Prang Sun, Phnom Penh)
- tm,ajpamYgenAekaHdac; edayk> Kg; Kn§arI>PñMeBj 1994
(Khmer Scarf Weaving by Miss. Chea Pisey, Phnom Penh 199�)
- vcnanuRkmExµr PaK1-2/ BuT§sasnbNÐitü 1968 RKae)aHBum<elIkTI5
(Khmer Dictionary part I-II, The Buddhist Institute, 1968, fifth edition)
References
��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr
Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia
eragBum<viTüasßanBuT§sasnbNÐitü
The Buddhist Institute Printing House