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M o n d a y , J a n u a r y 1 8 , 2 0 1 6
Super Scent - The Very Best Of Etat Libre D'Orange
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It doesn't seem possible that Etat Libre D'Orange is only 10 years old.
When it blazed its way onto the market in 2006 - in an opening salvo that
contained the likes of Sécrétions Magnifiques, Rien, Jasmin & Cigarette,
Vraie Blonde and Eloge Du Traitre - it cemented its reputation as a high-
quality enfant terrible with such rapidity that it almost feels as though its
anarchic swagger has been a part of the perfume scene for decades. It's a
credit to the vision of its founder and creative director Etienne De Swardt
that so many of his facetious fragrances are now considered classics of
modern perfumery.
Several niche brands claim to be edgy, but at its best, ELDO has walked
the walk unlike any other. Time and again, it has attached a novel
concept, quirky imagery and an oddball name to the skills of fearless
perfumers and produced bizarre, compelling works of olfactory art. As a
result, it has become one of the most iridescent hues in today's busy
perfume rainbow. Below you'll find what I consider to be its five most
commendable achievements.
Etienne De Swardt
About the author
I am a four-time Jasmine Award
winning writer and amateur perfumer
with a lifelong interest in the world of
fine fragrance.
I have written for The Sunday Times,
Grazia, Glass, The Scented Letter,
Basenotes.net, Now Smell This and
ParfumPlus. I am a regular columnist
for Esprit Magazine.
My knowledge and expertise have
been recommended by the Financial
Times, the BBC, The Guardian, The
Observer, Die Zeit and several other
publications.
My perfume guide, Le Snob:Le Snob:
PerfumePerfume, is published by Hardie
Grant. For more information and to
order a copy, please click here.
To read my award winning LondonLondon
Perfume Shopping GuidePerfume Shopping Guide, please
click here.
Please feel free to write to me at
persolaise at gmail dot com, or send
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commendable achievements.
Please be sure to visit the Candy Perfume Boy and Basenotes for their
own Super Scent lists. I have no idea which perfumes have made it onto
their Top 5, so I'll be heading over to their sites right now. As always, feel
free to add your own views below. Have I left out your favourite ELDO?
Let me know!
Enjoy the list!
5. 5. Like ThisLike This ( (Mathilde BijaouiMathilde Bijaoui; 2010); 2010)
You wouldn't think the realms of the bizarre and the romantic would have
anything in common, but Bijaoui's award-winning Like This - created in
collaboration with Tilda Swinton - forces you to reconsider. It entices
some of perfumery's less popular players - carrot, ginger and pumpkin -
to emerge from their hiding places, it places them upon a graceful spine
and it creates an embrace worthy of the Rumi poem after which it's
named. Fizzy love.
4. 4. Eau De ProtectionEau De Protection aka aka Rossy De PalmaRossy De Palma ( (Antoine LieAntoine Lie & & AntoineAntoine
MaisondieuMaisondieu; 2007); 2007)
Perfume aficionados often describe their favourite scents as a layer of
armour, and whilst I usually find that analogy unhelpful, nowhere is it
more apt than in the case of Eau De Protection. It starts off as a
straightforward rose soliflore - wide-eyed, approachable, hospitable - and
All content © Dariush Alavi & Parfums
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straightforward rose soliflore - wide-eyed, approachable, hospitable - and
even though it never quite loses sight of its central idea, it develops a
metallic edge, a crystalline intelligence, as though asserting that it's
capable of matching its friendliness with leonine ferocity. An
uncompromising marvel.
3. 3. The Afternoon Of A FaunThe Afternoon Of A Faun ( (Ralf SchwiegerRalf Schwieger; 2012); 2012)
Each time I spray this beauty, I feel I'm discovering it for the first time,
such is the depth of its allure. Conceived as a tribute to Diaghilev and the
Ballet Russes, it doesn't hold back on the vintage air of mosses and
labdanum, but it's also a creature of the 21st century, using immortelle,
incense and disconcerting green notes to propel its nimble dancer onto a
gleaming, futuristic stage, somewhere between Moscow and Mars. Wear
it... and feel those mind-altering Stravinsky strings cast an unearthly hue
across your world.
2. 2. Tom Of FinlandTom Of Finland (Antoine Lie; 2008) (Antoine Lie; 2008)
On a technical level, Tom is remarkable for being the best showcase
we've yet been given for a gorgeous Givaudan material called Safraleine,
a Sahara-dry expression of leather, cedar and saffron. But in a visceral
sense, it's fire in a bottle, an uninhibited, hip-grinding tornado of tanned
hide, baked spices and furnace-dwelling wood. As a friend once remarked
when we were discussing ELDO's scents, "Oh my God, Tom is just... it's
just SOOOO hot!"
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Persolaise published this on Persolaise at 12:00 PM
Reactions: Like (0)
Labels: Afternoon Of A Faun, Antoine Lie, Antoine Maisondieu, Best Of, Eau De Protection,
Etat Libre D'Orange, Etienne De Swardt, Like This, list, Mathilde Bijaoui, Ralf Schwieger,
Rien, Super Scent, Tom Of Finland
1. 1. RienRien (Antoine Lie; 2006) (Antoine Lie; 2006)
Everything that's best about ELDO can be found in Rien: an ironic name
linked to an ingenious concept and, most importantly, a blistering
olfactory composition. In this case, De Swardt wanted a scent stuffed to
seam-bursting point with all of perfumery's most assertive materials, so
that a wearer's response to someone gasping, "What on earth is that
perfume?" could be a smile and a quiet, "Oh... it's nothing." Lie rose to
the challenge, using patchouli, leathers, aldehydes, incense and woods at
a frightening concentration to produce a wholly distinctive homage to
bombastic bitterness. Oh, and one spray lasts like... well, like nothing
else.
--
Note: As per our Super Scent rules, the above list was chosen from
ELDO's current line-up; discontinued scents weren't considered. Here's
the brand's current portfolio, according to our reckoning: Antiheros;
Archives 69; Bendelirious; Bijou Romantique; Charogne; Cologne;
Dangerous Complicity; Delicious Closet Queen; Divin'Enfant; Don't Get
Me Wrong Baby; Eau De Protection; Eloge Du Traitre; Encens &
Bubblegum; Fat Electrician; Fils De Dieu; Jasmin Et Cigarette; Je Suis Un
Homme; La Fin Du Monde; Like This; Malaise Of The 1970s; Noel Au
Balcon; Nombril Immense; Putain Des Palaces; Remarkable People; Rien;
Rien Intense Incense (could be counted as one with Rien, I suppose);
Secretions Magnifiques; Afternoon Of A Faun; Tom Of Finland; True Lust;
Vierges Et Toreros; Vraie Blonde. The new Hermann A Mes Cotes Me
Paraissait Une Ombre wasn't released in time for us to consider it as a
group. However, I have tried it and I can report that it wouldn't have
made it onto my Top 5.
Persolaise
Recommend this on Google
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Persolaise.com features reviews of
perfumes, interviews with fragrance
industry figures and general articles
related to the world of scent. The site
is not affiliated in any way to any
brands, wholesalers, retailers or
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All reviews are entirely independent.
The content of posts is never
'sponsored' by any external agencies.
Some reviews are based on samples
provided by brands; others are based
on samples obtained by the author.
This has no bearing on the content of
the reviews.
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6 comments:
GrantGrant January 19, 2016 at 2:13 PM
I like the fact we matched 4 out of 5!
Reply
PersolaisePersolaise January 19, 2016 at 7:23 PM
Yes, me too. An interesting coinckidink.
The Candy Perfume BoyThe Candy Perfume Boy January 19, 2016 at 2:30 PM
A superb list, Persolaise! I honestly think I could have done a top ten.
I always wish I could love Rien but somehow I just don't gel with it. Perhaps
it's to dry? I don't know. Conceptually I think it's great though.
Reply
PersolaisePersolaise January 19, 2016 at 7:24 PM
You know, I was convinced Rien would be on your list. Yes, it is
super-dry, which is why I love it. That said, I don't wear it very
often. It's such a powerhouse, I always worry it'll scare everyone
away.
NevaNeva January 27, 2016 at 9:29 PM
Oh...Rien...I've ordered a sample, sprayed once, almost dropped dead
(unfortunately with disgust - it felt like metallic spray paint, suffocating) and
ever since I did not find the strength to pull the trigger a second time. I
guess I will have to be very drunk to risk it once again. I'm serious. Apart
from that experiment I did not manage to try any other of ELDO's scents
but I am very curious.
Reply
PersolaisePersolaise January 29, 2016 at 9:58 AM
Oh dear, that good, huh? :-)
Yes, it absolutely possesses a metallic aspect, so if that grates on
you, I can see why the scent would be hard to love.
Let me know if your second attempt is more successful.
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