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Super Scent - The Very Best Of Etat Libre D'Orange

THIS POST HAS BEEN SHORTLISTED IN THE

'INDEPENDENT - SOUNDBITE' CATEGORY

OF THE 2016/17 UK JASMINE AWARDS

It doesn't seem possible that Etat Libre D'Orange is only 10 years old.

When it blazed its way onto the market in 2006 - in an opening salvo that

contained the likes of Sécrétions Magnifiques, Rien, Jasmin & Cigarette,

Vraie Blonde and Eloge Du Traitre - it cemented its reputation as a high-

quality enfant terrible with such rapidity that it almost feels as though its

anarchic swagger has been a part of the perfume scene for decades. It's a

credit to the vision of its founder and creative director Etienne De Swardt

that so many of his facetious fragrances are now considered classics of

modern perfumery.

Several niche brands claim to be edgy, but at its best, ELDO has walked

the walk unlike any other. Time and again, it has attached a novel

concept, quirky imagery and an oddball name to the skills of fearless

perfumers and produced bizarre, compelling works of olfactory art. As a

result, it has become one of the most iridescent hues in today's busy

perfume rainbow. Below you'll find what I consider to be its five most

commendable achievements.

Etienne De Swardt

About the author

I am a four-time Jasmine Award

winning writer and amateur perfumer

with a lifelong interest in the world of

fine fragrance.

I have written for The Sunday Times,

Grazia, Glass, The Scented Letter,

Basenotes.net, Now Smell This and

ParfumPlus. I am a regular columnist

for Esprit Magazine.

My knowledge and expertise have

been recommended by the Financial

Times, the BBC, The Guardian, The

Observer, Die Zeit and several other

publications.

My perfume guide, Le Snob:Le Snob:

PerfumePerfume, is published by Hardie

Grant. For more information and to

order a copy, please click here.

To read my award winning LondonLondon

Perfume Shopping GuidePerfume Shopping Guide, please

click here.

Please feel free to write to me at

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http://persolaise.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/super-scent-very-best-of-etat-libre.html 02/02/2017, 18A50Page 1 of 16

commendable achievements.

Please be sure to visit the Candy Perfume Boy and Basenotes for their

own Super Scent lists. I have no idea which perfumes have made it onto

their Top 5, so I'll be heading over to their sites right now. As always, feel

free to add your own views below. Have I left out your favourite ELDO?

Let me know!

Enjoy the list!

5. 5. Like ThisLike This ( (Mathilde BijaouiMathilde Bijaoui; 2010); 2010)

You wouldn't think the realms of the bizarre and the romantic would have

anything in common, but Bijaoui's award-winning Like This - created in

collaboration with Tilda Swinton - forces you to reconsider. It entices

some of perfumery's less popular players - carrot, ginger and pumpkin -

to emerge from their hiding places, it places them upon a graceful spine

and it creates an embrace worthy of the Rumi poem after which it's

named. Fizzy love.

4. 4. Eau De ProtectionEau De Protection aka aka Rossy De PalmaRossy De Palma ( (Antoine LieAntoine Lie & & AntoineAntoine

MaisondieuMaisondieu; 2007); 2007)

Perfume aficionados often describe their favourite scents as a layer of

armour, and whilst I usually find that analogy unhelpful, nowhere is it

more apt than in the case of Eau De Protection. It starts off as a

straightforward rose soliflore - wide-eyed, approachable, hospitable - and

All content © Dariush Alavi & Parfums

Persolaise 2010-2017, unless stated

otherwise. All rights reserved.

As featured by

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straightforward rose soliflore - wide-eyed, approachable, hospitable - and

even though it never quite loses sight of its central idea, it develops a

metallic edge, a crystalline intelligence, as though asserting that it's

capable of matching its friendliness with leonine ferocity. An

uncompromising marvel.

3. 3. The Afternoon Of A FaunThe Afternoon Of A Faun ( (Ralf SchwiegerRalf Schwieger; 2012); 2012)

Each time I spray this beauty, I feel I'm discovering it for the first time,

such is the depth of its allure. Conceived as a tribute to Diaghilev and the

Ballet Russes, it doesn't hold back on the vintage air of mosses and

labdanum, but it's also a creature of the 21st century, using immortelle,

incense and disconcerting green notes to propel its nimble dancer onto a

gleaming, futuristic stage, somewhere between Moscow and Mars. Wear

it... and feel those mind-altering Stravinsky strings cast an unearthly hue

across your world.

2. 2. Tom Of FinlandTom Of Finland (Antoine Lie; 2008) (Antoine Lie; 2008)

On a technical level, Tom is remarkable for being the best showcase

we've yet been given for a gorgeous Givaudan material called Safraleine,

a Sahara-dry expression of leather, cedar and saffron. But in a visceral

sense, it's fire in a bottle, an uninhibited, hip-grinding tornado of tanned

hide, baked spices and furnace-dwelling wood. As a friend once remarked

when we were discussing ELDO's scents, "Oh my God, Tom is just... it's

just SOOOO hot!"

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Persolaise published this on Persolaise at 12:00 PM

Reactions: Like (0)

Labels: Afternoon Of A Faun, Antoine Lie, Antoine Maisondieu, Best Of, Eau De Protection,

Etat Libre D'Orange, Etienne De Swardt, Like This, list, Mathilde Bijaoui, Ralf Schwieger,

Rien, Super Scent, Tom Of Finland

1. 1. RienRien (Antoine Lie; 2006) (Antoine Lie; 2006)

Everything that's best about ELDO can be found in Rien: an ironic name

linked to an ingenious concept and, most importantly, a blistering

olfactory composition. In this case, De Swardt wanted a scent stuffed to

seam-bursting point with all of perfumery's most assertive materials, so

that a wearer's response to someone gasping, "What on earth is that

perfume?" could be a smile and a quiet, "Oh... it's nothing." Lie rose to

the challenge, using patchouli, leathers, aldehydes, incense and woods at

a frightening concentration to produce a wholly distinctive homage to

bombastic bitterness. Oh, and one spray lasts like... well, like nothing

else.

--

Note: As per our Super Scent rules, the above list was chosen from

ELDO's current line-up; discontinued scents weren't considered. Here's

the brand's current portfolio, according to our reckoning: Antiheros;

Archives 69; Bendelirious; Bijou Romantique; Charogne; Cologne;

Dangerous Complicity; Delicious Closet Queen; Divin'Enfant; Don't Get

Me Wrong Baby; Eau De Protection; Eloge Du Traitre; Encens &

Bubblegum; Fat Electrician; Fils De Dieu; Jasmin Et Cigarette; Je Suis Un

Homme; La Fin Du Monde; Like This; Malaise Of The 1970s; Noel Au

Balcon; Nombril Immense; Putain Des Palaces; Remarkable People; Rien;

Rien Intense Incense (could be counted as one with Rien, I suppose);

Secretions Magnifiques; Afternoon Of A Faun; Tom Of Finland; True Lust;

Vierges Et Toreros; Vraie Blonde. The new Hermann A Mes Cotes Me

Paraissait Une Ombre wasn't released in time for us to consider it as a

group. However, I have tried it and I can report that it wouldn't have

made it onto my Top 5.

Persolaise

Recommend this on Google

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Persolaise.com features reviews of

perfumes, interviews with fragrance

industry figures and general articles

related to the world of scent. The site

is not affiliated in any way to any

brands, wholesalers, retailers or

organisations involved with the

fragrance industry.

All reviews are entirely independent.

The content of posts is never

'sponsored' by any external agencies.

Some reviews are based on samples

provided by brands; others are based

on samples obtained by the author.

This has no bearing on the content of

the reviews.

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6 comments:

GrantGrant January 19, 2016 at 2:13 PM

I like the fact we matched 4 out of 5!

Reply

PersolaisePersolaise January 19, 2016 at 7:23 PM

Yes, me too. An interesting coinckidink.

The Candy Perfume BoyThe Candy Perfume Boy January 19, 2016 at 2:30 PM

A superb list, Persolaise! I honestly think I could have done a top ten.

I always wish I could love Rien but somehow I just don't gel with it. Perhaps

it's to dry? I don't know. Conceptually I think it's great though.

Reply

PersolaisePersolaise January 19, 2016 at 7:24 PM

You know, I was convinced Rien would be on your list. Yes, it is

super-dry, which is why I love it. That said, I don't wear it very

often. It's such a powerhouse, I always worry it'll scare everyone

away.

NevaNeva January 27, 2016 at 9:29 PM

Oh...Rien...I've ordered a sample, sprayed once, almost dropped dead

(unfortunately with disgust - it felt like metallic spray paint, suffocating) and

ever since I did not find the strength to pull the trigger a second time. I

guess I will have to be very drunk to risk it once again. I'm serious. Apart

from that experiment I did not manage to try any other of ELDO's scents

but I am very curious.

Reply

PersolaisePersolaise January 29, 2016 at 9:58 AM

Oh dear, that good, huh? :-)

Yes, it absolutely possesses a metallic aspect, so if that grates on

you, I can see why the scent would be hard to love.

Let me know if your second attempt is more successful.

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Persolaise - A Perfume Blog: Super Scent - The Very Best Of Etat …thejasmineawards.co.uk/lib/kcfinder/upload/files/Persolaise - A Perfume... · Each time I spray this beauty, I