apparel
garment dyeing.
intelligent threads.
3garment dyeing basics.
What is Garment Dyeing and why is it so famous?
Basic models of the collection are sewn “raw” and are dyed afterwards according to market trends and demands. This procedure makes it possible to respond quickly to market trends. Garment Dyeing is perfect to achieve special design effects and a distinctive optical appearance. Garment Dyeing offers high flexibility regarding colours, logistics, materials management and supply.
Common dyeing procedures.
Reactive dyes.
• dyestuff is linked chemically to the fibre• for good to very good wash and rub fastness
Direct or sulphide dyes.
• no real chemical reaction with the fibre• dyeing procedure is used if washed-out effects are required
Pigment dyes.
• dyestuff is applied to the fibre using binder agents
• no real chemical reaction with the fibre
• very good light fastness
What is dyed?
A distinction is made between fabrics made from cellulosic fibres (e.g. cotton) and those made from synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester or polyamide). Basically, all materials can be dyed, provided that the correct dyeing pro-cedure is used.
Most important fibre is and continues to be cotton. Other natural fibres such as silk and wool as well as blends of them are increasingly gaining significance. In addition, more and more elastic fabrics are used (”Comfort-Stretch”, ”Power-Stretch”).
Polyamide fabrics are less prominent in Garment Dyeing. Polyamide fab-rics are often used for underwear or for medical equipment. A future trend is Garment Dyeing of polyester clothes (e.g. in the sportswear segment) using high-temperature dyes.
Garment dyed items include e.g. trousers, jackets, T-shirts, polo- and sweatshirts, shirts and blouses, workwear, carpets, bath mats and towels, socks, underwear, bags and shoes.
Fashionable dyeing procedures.
Old-Dye, Antique-Dye, Cold-Dye.
• dyed with e.g. pigments or direct dyestuffs
• by means of cellulase treatment or abrasive washing treatments (e.g. stone wash), washed-out effects can be achieved
Dip-Dye.
• pre-fabricated garments are dipped into the dye bath on hangers
• even colour gradients are achieved by slow dipping and raising the garment
Top-Dye.
• sponges, rubber foam balls or rags are dipped into the dye bath and put into the dyeing machine together with the garments
• technique to achieve irregular and sketchy effects
Tie-Dye.• before the dyeing process, pre-fabricated garments are folded or knotted, put into nets or are fixed by strings• technique to achieve irregular effects like batik
AMANN‘s product range for Garment Dyeing – Choosing the correct sewing thread.
Choosing the correct sewing thread for Garment Dyeing depends on the raw material in use and the type of dyeing pro- cedure. Garment Dyeing itself requires a special performance of the sewing thread. The market is looking for sewing threads with a good dyeability, sufficient strength, efficient sewing performance and with ideal elongation. With PremiumGD, AMANN developed a sewing thread that unifies all those requirements for the first time!
It is also a current method to use dyed polyester sewing threads in combination with cotton dyeing procedures. Using this method, the seam quality is optimised, but the original idea of Garment Dyeing is lost. Using sewing threads that are already dyed offers no advantages in terms of logistics and quick response to colour trends. The use of PremiumGD combines both!
Material Dyeing procedure AMANN products
Cotton/elastic cotton fabricsReactive dyes, substantive dyes, pigment dyes, direct dyes
PremiumGD, RasantGD, Mercifil
Polyester High-temperature dye with disperse dyes sabaC, Serafil
Polyamide Acid dyes or metal complex dyes Garment Dyeing 120, PA Bauschgarn SGD
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
Viscose/cotton core spun• THE innovation for Garment Dyeing• the first sewing thread that combines perfect dyeability with elasticity• core spun thread made from 70% viscose and 30% cotton• robust in sewing• suitable as needle and looper thread
Premium
Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up
PremiumGD
20 150 Nm 140 – 160 1000 1.500 m Co
30 105 Nm 120 – 140 1000 2.500 m Co
50 60 Nm 110 – 130 1000 5.000 m Co
75 40 Nm 100 – 120 1000 5.000 m Co
100 30 Nm 80 – 90 1000 5.000 m Co
Application recommendation per ticket.
Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation
20 150 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams
30 105
• needle thread for distinctive decorative and topstitch seams• for highly stressed seams • for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics
50 60• under thread in combination with ticket no. 20 and 30 • for stressed seams • for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics
75 40• for lowly stressed seams • for serging seams
100 30
• for non-stressed seams• for serging seams• for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts) • as embroidery thread
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Polyester/cotton core spun • core spun thread made from 40% polyester and 60% cotton• optimised dyeing properties due to the high cotton part • the ideal addition to Mercifil and PremiumGD, recommended to be used in combination• increased seam strength due to the polyester part compared to 100% cotton threads • robust in sewing
Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up
RasantGD
30 105 Nm 120 – 140 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 2.500 m Co
50 60 Nm 100 – 110 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co
75 40 Nm 90 – 100 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co
100 30 Nm 80 – 90 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co
Explanation of colour no.: LT00 = Light with raw polyester core, recommended for light dyeing, depending on the type of treatment, it is also possible to use it all-purposeDK01 = Medium with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for medium dyeingDK02 = Dark with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for dark dyeing Please consider: Due to the high cotton part, the dyeability is optimised. Nevertheless, only the cotton part is dyed during the dyeing process. The polyester core remains undyed.
Application recommendation per ticket.
Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation
30 105• under thread for highest safety on highly stressed seams (e.g. seat seams) especially while using lockstitch• for heavy weight and elastic fabrics
50 60
• under thread in combination with ticket 30 for more safety on stressed seams (e.g. seat seams) • for stressed inside seams • for heavyweight and elastic fabrics
75 40• for lowly stressed inside seams • for serging seams
100 30• for non-stressed inside seams • for serging seams • for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts)
Co=No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
products and applications.
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
Cotton spun, mercerised• the classic sewing thread for Garment Dyeing• made from long-staple mercerised cotton• optimal dyeing properties• specific signal colour prevents confusion
Application recommendation per ticket.
Product Ticket no. (Ne) Tex no. Ticket no. (Nm) Needle size Colour no. Make-up
Mercifil
10 180 18 Nm 140 – 160 3000 + 6231 1.000 m Co
12 105 30 Nm 120 – 130 3000 + 6231 2.500 m Co
24/2 70 50 Nm 110 – 130 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co
40 50 60 Nm 80 – 100 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co
50 40 75 Nm 70 – 80 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co
60 30 100 Nm 65 – 70 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co
Explanation of colour no.: 3000 = bleached, 6231 = removable signal colour
Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation
10 180 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams
12 105 • needle thread for decorative and topstitch seams
24/2 70• for high stressed seams • for decorative seams
40 50• for normally stressed seams• as under thread for decorative seams
50 40• for lightweight fabrics (shirts, blouses and underwear)• for serging seams
60 30• for fine fabrics (shirts, blouses and T- shirts)• for serging seams
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AMANN’s products for Garment Dyeing – Application recommendation.
Depending on the article of clothing and the type of fabric in use (elastic or non-elastic, blends of materials, density, etc.), different concepts of sewing threads could be reasonable: Sewing thread concept A (PremiumGD):
Sewing thread concept B (PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD):
Sewing thread concept C (Mercifil in combination with RasantGD):
Sewing thread concept D (Mercifil):
Sewing thread concept E (RasantGD):
For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
Needle thread PremiumGD PremiumGD
Under thread PremiumGD PremiumGD
For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
Needle thread PremiumGD RasantGD
Under thread RasantGD RasantGD
For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
Needle thread Mercifil RasantGD
Under thread RasantGD RasantGD
For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
Needle thread Mercifil Mercifil
Under thread Mercifil Mercifil
For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
Needle thread RasantGD RasantGD
Under thread RasantGD RasantGD
Co=
products and applications.
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
9
Comparison of sewing thread concepts.
Sew
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A Prem
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GD
Sew
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B Pre
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Rasa
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Sew
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C Mer
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Sew
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D
Optica
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aft
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Per
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and
uni
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sea
ms
on b
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insi
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outsi
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Per
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Lig
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Per
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Lig
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Per
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Lig
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Seam
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Abra
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low
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Rep
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low
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Sew
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Exc
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V
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Bet
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Low
sew
ing
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V
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good
sew
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pe
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, ver
y hi
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mac
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ossi
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Thre
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Sin
gle
thre
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ultip
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con
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Mul
tiple
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ingl
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Sin
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GD
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The
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GD
se
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The
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The
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The
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Improved seam quality due to higher elongation of the sewing thread.
The higher thread elongation of RasantGD and especially PremiumGD has a positive influence on seam elasticity and therefore has a direct effect on seam quality. However, it is very important to consider the correct thread balance.
The correct thread balance in the seam.
We know from long-term experience that inappropriate thread balance is the reason for broken seams in most cases. Especially for Garment Dyeing, a perfect thread balance is crucial for the seam stability. The higher elongation of the sewing thread (e.g. PremiumGD) has a positive impact, but it cannot compensate inappropriate thread balance in the seam completely.
The drawing shows the lockstitch, please consider this also for the chainstitch.
20
15
10
5
0
Mercifil
Elongation in %
RasantGD PremiumGD
Thread balance Consequence
Perfect thread balance = optimal seam elasticity and seam strength
Inappropriate thread balance = Thread breakages
products and applications.
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
11
The following typical clothes for Garment Dyeing illustrate the application of the recommended sewing thread concepts. The sewing advisory ser-vice of AMANN is happy to recommend individual sewing thread concepts with regard to your fabrics and processing parameters in use. Furthermore, sewing thread calculations are available on request.
Shirts & Blouses.
Garment Dyeing is also used for blouses and shirts. Production of collars and cuffs, hems, button panels and yokes asks for accurate seams, perfect dyeing results and sufficient strength. AMANN‘s sewing thread range for Garment Dyeing has been developed to meet these challenges.
A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD
applications – examples.
Trousers
Garment Dyeing has a large share in trousers’ pro-duction. Customers appreciate the distinct look. Garment dyed trousers become frequently worn favourites, which must be specifically robust and durable. This is a particular challenge for sewing threads, which must provide perfect dyeability and at the same time sufficient strength and sewability.
Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type con-cept Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread
Product Ticket no.
Tex no. Product Ticket
no.Tex no.
Closing seams (not visible from the outside)
301
lockstitch
A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60
B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60
C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60
Closing seams (not visible from the outside)
401 chainstitch
A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60
B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60
C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60
Topstitch seams (visible from the outside)
301
lockstitch
A PremiumGD 30 105 PremiumGD 50 60
B PremiumGD 30 105 RasantGD 50 60
Mercifil 12 105 RasantGD 50 60
Serging seams 504
3-thread overlock stitch
A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
Button hole 404 button hole
A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40
Bar tack 304bar tack
A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
C Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40
Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type con-cept Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread
Product Ticket no.
Tex no. Product Ticket
no.Tex no.
Closing seams (not visible from the outside)
301
lockstitch
A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
Closing seams (not visible from the outside)
401 chainstitch
A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
Topstitch seams (visible from the outside)
301
lockstitch
A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
B PremiumGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
Mercifil 50 40 RasantGD 75 40
Serging seams504
3-thread overlock stitch
A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30
B RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30
C RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30
Button hole 304 button hole
A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30
B PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30
C Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40
Attach button 107attach button
A PremiumGD 75 40
B PremiumGD 75 40
C Mercifil 50 40
A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD
intelligent threads.
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Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 1 | D-74357 Bönnigheim | Phone +49 7143 277-0 E-Mail: [email protected] | www.amann.com
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