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YANKEE DOODLE

Pipe Street Organ Kit

Designed and made by Anatoly ZAYA-RUZO, CT, USA.

MANUAL

Thank you for purchasing the YANKEE DOODLE Pipe Organ Kit!

This is classical street organ 20 pipes pneumatic instrument played

by perforated "paper" roll. All 500 parts have been professionally

fabricated in the workshop of Anatoly ZAYA-RUZO and guarantee

the best sound quality and long term reliability.

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Part One. Tools and Materials.

WHAT YOU GET Kit includes 20 bags with about 500 parts. All parts are pre-cut and ready to be glued or

assembled by other way, and finished.

The idea of this kit is to make possible to assemble the one without using any special

woodworking tools and machines.

Beside the kit and Manual you also got a music roll on a standard 140 mm spool. It is a small

music roll with YANKEE DOODLE tune - just to check your assembled organ. You can order as

many music as you want later. I personally recommend site of very good organ music arranger

Melvin Wright to purchase the music.

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WHAT TOOL DO YOU NEED

While all parts are pre-cut, you would still use some simple tools to complete the kit.

1. Ruler and measure tape. 2. Awl.

3. Press drill or hand drill.

4. Screwdrivers set.

5.Clamps. Spring clamps are very useful for assembling the pipes and most of the parts, you

would need at least 6 of them (about 7" long), but better 10 or more.

You would also need several regular clamps of bigger size - 12" to 24". 6. Knife, chisel.

7.Files, sandpaper #180, 200 and 400.

One jig for gluing the parts at square angle is included to the kit.

One more simple jig - sanding device - you would need to make by yourself. It is just a piece of

#180 sand paper approximate size of 10"x8" glued to the plywood base 1/2" or 3/4" thickness.

This jig will be very useful for planning surfaces before gluing to each other. If you have band

sanding machine, however, you may not make this device.

WHAT MATERIALS DO YOU NEED 1. Carpenter or wood glue.

Use regular white or yellow wood glue. Some recommendations on gluing with this glue are

follow.

2. Contact cement. This glue is actually sort of liquid rubber. The parts which glued with this glue became air sealed

and remain flexible. Contact cement will be used for bellows and receiver folders (sometimes

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called "accordion"). Because you would need enough working time to apply the glue I would

recommend contact cement in gel form.

3. Liquid Nail. This is trade name of the glue which make good build-up and does not change

the value during curing time. We will use it for sealing the gaps between connectors and

flexible tubing (bag # 13 , part 4 ), as it is not smooth inside.

4. Crazy Glue and epoxy glue will be used for gluing some metal parts into the wood. 5. Kitchen and Bath Sealant. This will be used for air sealing the glass in the door panel of the

pressure box.

6. Lacquers and paints. These you would need for finishing and decorating. 7. Masking tape. Wax paper.

8. Brushes. Pencils.

As kit does not include outer case, you would have to buy all materials to make the one. The

case may be constructed in plywood, solid wood, decorated with veneer, or painted. You may

need also leather strap, rubber feet, fasteners, so on. Accordingly, you will make a list of the

materials have to be bought for this part.

You also may need some small pieces of soft and hard wood, plywood of different thickness,

veneers.

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Part Two. General Rules.

Gluing the parts is the main technique for assembling this kit.

In this part I would like to describe some important rules and give advices on gluing. All parts in the kit are cut but not finished. You have to clean and sand all surfaces before gluing.

I mentioned earlier about making a special sanding device for this job. Use paper # 180 for this device. Below there is a pictures of sanding device with two samples of its application. Note a vertical bar, which allows to sand an edge of the part at straight angle. Always use this jig before cluing parts together, as saw may not guarantee the flat even surfaces.

Woodworking glue is water based glue, that allows to reduce it with water and to clean the joint with

wet brush or rag.

Originally woodworker glue looks like sour cream, which is good for most joints. However, I would

recommend to make a separate jar of reduced glue (making it close to "milk" consistency). This one will

be used for pipes assembling and tracking bar. Reduced glue will not leave a build-up as much as regular

one, and this is important for gluing the parts where cleaning the joint is quite difficult.

To reduce glue add just a small quantity of water. Try to glue two pieces of soft wood without cleaning glue excess, and see if the build-up is too big making " barrier" or "step". When you satisfy in normal -small - build-up, brake the parts after glue is dried. Wood have to be broken along the grains, not in glued joint. Otherwise, you have added too much water.

Because woodworker glue does not reduce its value when drying, there is not necessary to clamp

wooden parts too tight. This is especially applies to heavy (not reduced) glue. Even if there is a small gap

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between parts (which may even not be visible by yourself) glue will serve as a sealer. Spring clamps

produce quite enough pressure for gluing parts. When using different clamps avoid to applying extra

force.

Immediately after gluing the parts clean all joints with wet brush and wipe off extra water with rag or

paper towels.

Such abilities of the glue sometimes allow to use it as a sealer. For instance when assembling blocks

and other pipes parts, we would prefer not to wipe off extra glue, but rather to spread it over all

surfaces of the block to seal its pores.

If you decided to lacquer parts before gluing (for instance, inner surfaces of pipes), protect the gluing

edges of the parts with masking tape before applying the lacquer. Woodworker glue will not adhere to

the surface which is lacquered or painted.

Every time before gluing ensure that all surface have to be glued are flat. If you glue part to a

previously jointed parts, be sure there is no "step" in this joint. If surface supposed to be glued is nor

flat use your sanding jig to make it flat.

A specially designed jig for gluing the parts is included to the kit. This device allows to glue most parts of

the kit ensuring the angles between parts are strictly right. The jig is made of plywood which is covered

with waterproof wax. So, parts have to be glued will never stick to the jig.

Below you can see the pictures that illustrate a typical sequences of the gluing procedure while using

this device.

1. Install the first part, tightly press it to the vertical wall as well as to the end wall. Clamp to the bottom

of the jig.

2. Apply the glue and install the second part. Tightly press it to the vertical wall and end wall. Clamp to

the vertical wall of the jig.

3. Clamp parts together.

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Part Three. What's in the bags.

This part of this Manual contains the description of each bag. Every part is pictures, numbered

and named. For easy identification the main sizes of each part are also indicated.

These pictures and descriptions are for reference when you follow any step of this Manual.

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Bag #1. Receiver

1. Side panel w/holes, 150x280 mm, 1/2" plywood 2. Side panel solid, same size 3. Spring clamp 4. Valve, 25x12x83 mm 5-6. Caps, 37x80 mm, 1/4" plywood 7. Nylon thread 8. Leather for valve 9. Structure plank, 38x19x415 mm, solid wood 10. Valve spring 11. Washer for valve 12. Round head long screw 13. Wood screws (2) 14. Brass I-connectors (2) 15. Round head short screw 16. Washers (2)

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Bag #2. Bellows

1. Central panel , 130x260, 1/2" plywood 2-3. Side panels , same size 4-5. Valve boxes caps, 58x130 mm, 1/4" plywood 6-9. Valve boxes sides, 25x130 mm, 1/4" plywood 10. Structure plank, 191x30x12 mm, solid wood 11-14. Valves, 35x20x6 mm, solid wood 15. Filters (2) , 35x70 mm, mesh 16-19. Valve boxes ends, 25x45 mm, 1/2" plywood 20-21. Valve boxes dividers, 25x45 mm, 1/2" plywood

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Bag #3, Tracker Bar

1. Half-body left, 76x19x160, solid wood 2. Half-body right, same size 3. Base, 170x12x63, solid wood 4. Washers (4) 5. Screws (4) 6. Dowel , 5 mm

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Bag #4. Pipes backs.

Backs for pipes #2 to #20. Solid wood, thickness 1/4".

All parts are numbered as "B-...-N", where N means number of the pipe (from 2 to 20).

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Bag #5. Pipes fronts

Fronts for pipes #2 to #20, total of 19, Solid wood, thickness 1/4".

All parts are numbered as "F-...-N", where N means number of the pipe (from 2 to 20).

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Bag #6. Pipes sides

Sides for pipes #2 to #20, total of 38, Solid wood, thickness 1/4".

All parts are numbered as "S-...-N", where N means number of the pipe (from 2 to 20).

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Bag #7. Pipe #1

1. Back , L-shaped, 280x80 mm 2. Front , 80x220 mm 3. Side long, 40x280 mm 4. Side short, 40x237 mm 5. Center, 40x220 mm 6. End, 40x67 mm, 1/2" plywood 7. Stopper, 39x29x12 8. Block, G-shaped, 40x30x26 mm 9. Blade, 16x40 mm

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Bag #8. Parts for pipes

1. Leather for stoppers 2. Round head screws (60+) 3.Brass tubes, 5/16" (10) 4.Brass tubes , 1/4" (30) 5. Caps (19) 6. Blocks, G-shaped (19) 7. Stoppers, 1/2" plywood (19) 8. Flat head screws (30+)

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Bag #9. Miscellaneous parts.

1. Brass T-connector 2-3. Brass L-connectors

4. Fabric for bellows and receiver, with folders templates 5. Leather, thin, for bellows valves 6. Spool for music roll (*) 7. Gear for music roll rewinding 8. Tuning tool 9. Rubber sealing, D-shaped 10. Leather, thick, for bellows and receiver hinges.

(*) May not be supplied if music roll on a spool is included

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Bag #10. Pressure Box

1. Side , right, with 5 holes, 294x175 mm, L-shaped, 1/2" plywood 2. Lock spring, oak, 160 mm 3. Lock tongue, oak, 16 mm 4. Lock base, oak, 50 mm 5. Side , right, with 4 holes, 294x175, L-shaped, 1/2" plywood 6. Top, 130x204 mm, 1/2" plywood 7. Hole cap, 20x20 mm, 1/16" plywood 8. Cartridge slide rail left, long, 8x8x95 mm 9. Base bracket, left, 19x19x95 mm 10. Base bracket, right , 25x19x95 mm 11. Cartridge slide rail right, short,6x16x61 mm 12. Dowels, dia. 11 mm, 179 mm 13. Cartridge side left 14. Cartridge side right 15. Back, 1/4" plywood 16. Bottom, 180x95 mm, 1/2" plywood 17. Back reinforce, 28x180 mm, 1/2" plywood 18. Pressure box bracket, 1/4" plywood 19. Lock round head screws (2) - not shown 20. Flat head screws (8) - not shown.

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Bag #11. Bellow parts

1. Pan head screws (3) 2. Console assembled: - steel bracket, L-shaped;

- shoulder screw #8-32; - sleeve bearing; - washers (2)

3. Flat head screws and washers (2, 2) 4. Bellows levers (2), wood, 97x14x8 mm 5.Round head screws (2)

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Bag #12. Rewinding lever

1. Wooden lever, 87x24x8 mm 2. Wire "C" 3. Wooden knob 4. Screw

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Bag #13. Tubing

1. Clear vinyl tubing, inner diameter 1/4", 30' 2. Clear vinyl tubing, inner diameter 5/16", 6' 3. Rubber tubing - 1' 4. Flexible tubing - 1'

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Bag # 14. Rewind axle assembled

1. Handle 2. Screw long with nut, #8-32 3. Brass lever 4. Pan head screw, #6-32 5. Axle, dia. 1/4" 6. Collar 7. Washer 8. Sleeve bearing 9. Gear

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Bag # 15. Main Axle

1. Handle 2. Long brass lever 3. Pan head screw, #6-32 4. Axle, dia. 1/4"m with taper pin (not shown) 5. Collar 6. Pulley 7. Washer 8. One-way ball bearing 9. Brass sleeve bearing 10. Washers (4) 11.Short brass lever 12. Screw #6-32 13. Shoulder screw 14. Steel sleeve bearing with (2) washers 15. Rubber belt, 390 mm

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Bag #16. Lead axle

1. Cylinder, plastic, 141 mm, dia. 33,5 mm 2. Cheek with two holes (center hole and stopper hole) 3. Cheek with one (center) hole 4. Nails 5. Axle , dia. 1/4" 6. Pulley 7. Spring with (2) washers 8. Taper pin 9. Nylon sleeve bearing 10. Collars (2) 11. Wooden side with single (center) hole 12. Wooden side with two holes (center hole and leading hole) 13. Collar with leading pin 14. Nylon sleeve bearing

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Bag #17. Assembling ( gluing) jig

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Bag #18 (not shown)

1. Panel for pipes, 440x340 mm, 1/4" plywood

2. Consoles, L-shaped, 340x120 mm, 1/2" plywood (2)

3. Console planks , 120x 40x19 mm, solid wood (2)

4. Structure plank, 417x39x19 mm, solid wood

5. Cardboard 3 mm or plywood 2 mm (for bellows and receiver folders), 260x380 mm (2)

6. Organ base , 1/2" plywood

Bag #20 (not shown)

1. Music roll on the spool.

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Bag # 19. Pressure box door

1. Base, 17x25x204 mm 2. Brass hinge, (one long or two small) 3. Horizontal inner frame plank, 204x40 mm (2) 4. Vertical inner frame plank , 200x40 mm (2) 5. Vertical outer frame plank, 280x50 mm (2) 6. Horizontal outer frame plank, 104x50 mm (2) 7. Glass 8. Brass crews for hinge - not shown 9. Brass crews for base (2) with decorative washers (2) - not shown

Part Four. Pipes. 1. Anatomy of the pipe. a. Lower part of the pipe.

b. Upper part of the pipe.

As you can see on the pictures above the pipe looks like a small long box. The back, two sides and front are glued together, and block is the bottom of this structure. G-shaped block has thin tooth at the top, and thick base in its lower part.

The cap is screwed in to the sides exactly in front of the block. Note the gap in upper part of the cap.

The front panel of the pipe has a tapered part - blade, which is located in front of the gap.

At the back of the pipe there is brass tube.

Tooth of the block, gap of the cap and blade of the front - these are parts that produce sound. The pressured air goes thru the brass tube to a small chamber in lover part of the pipe. Then it enters to the gap between tooth and cap and splits by the front blade, producing acoustic waives - sound.

The tune of the sound depends on the length of the pipe and can be regulated by moving the stopper in and out in the pipe channel by pulling or pushing the stopper screw with the tuning tool.

The leather of the stopper ensure good air sealing of this acoustic system.

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2. Making the pipe frame.

IMPORTANT! Before doing anything please read the whole part of the Manual

to understand all procedures and their goals.

We will start with pipe assembly, beginning on pipes # 2 to #20.

Pipe #1 has different design, and we will assemble it later.

In the bag # 6 find two parts with number 20 on them, in the bag # 8 find parts 6 with a number 20 on it.

Prepare the assembling jig (bag # 17) and several clamps. Use reduced glue (refer to Part Two of the Manual for gluing). Clamp assembling jig to a vise or to the working table for easy operation.

Apply glue and install all three parts of the pipe #20 into the jig as shown. Note, that part 6 (G- shaped block) is turned with its opening down. Put the clamps as shown.

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Be sure all parts touch the walls of the jig.

After gluing you will have the pipe "frame", which looks like this (as an example I work now with pipe #6):

You may now glue all 19 pipes frames before starting next step.

When all frames are ready, sand bottom of the frames (the side opposite the one you see on a previous picture), so that all three parts have same plain surface. You may use your sanding device or sanding machine (refer to Part One).

3. Attaching the back and front.

In the bag # 4 find part with number 20 (back) on it and in the bag #5 find also part # 20 (front).

Glue back to the frame as shown on the pictures.

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IMPORTANT: before installing the last clamp (left on the picture above) make sure the side is lined with the back.

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IMPORTANT: the hole in the back must be behind the block.

After gluing the back of the frame it looks like that:

After the frame dries sand the last surface needed to be glued to the front with your sanding device.

While installing the parts to the jig turn the frame at 180 grad. so that the block will be at the other side of the jig (see next picture).

Glue the front as shown.

IMPORTANT: The frame and front must touch the end of the jig.

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The body of the pipe is assembled. You may now assemble the other 18 pipes.

After the pipes bodies are ready, drill the holes on the lower part of each pipe. As a guide use the hole at the back. Drill through this hole to the end.

For pipes # 2, 3, 4 and 5 use a 5/16" (7.6 - 7.8 mm) drill bit, and for other # 6-#20 use a 1/4" (6.2 mm).

Clean all holes from any wooden particles.

NOTE.

Sealing and/ or lacquering inner surfaces of the pipes is not necessary. However, if you live in a wet climate, or plan to expose the organ in direct sunlight for a long playing times you may want to give extra protection to the solid wood of the pipes. For this purpose you may use any lacquer or sealer for wood. But don't forget to cover all surfaces of the pipes that have to be glued with masking tape before you apply the sealer or lacquer.

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4. Cleaning and shaping pipes.

To complete the pipes we need to shape, make chamfers, sand , clean and seal some important places.

Start with cleaning the pipes openings - the end ( top )of the pipe. This is a place where the stopper will be

inserted, so we need to sand inside surfaces approximate to the 50 mm or 2" from the edge.

For this purpose make a simple tool - "sanding stick" - a piece of hard wood 10x10 mm and 200 mm long. Cut

one side at angle as shown. Glue sanding paper, 220 greed (wood glue will work) to one side of this plank. Now

you have sort of fine file. Insert it inside the pipe end and carefully sand all four walls. At the end of this

procedure make four chamfers at the edges, just about 1 mm.

Now make another tool similar to above - "leather stick". Instead of sandpaper glue piece of leather from bag

#8 part 1. After the glue dries take a piece of candle and rub it into the leather. Then "iron" with this leather stick

inside surfaces you just sanded.

Now we have the inner pipe channel smoothed, and stopper will slide easily along the pipes during the tuning

process.

Next, clean the opening of the block - the opposite end of the pipe.

Using same sanding stick gently sand the open part of the pipe.

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Next, make a small (about 0.5 mm) chamfer at both sides of the "tooth" of the block.

Clean a little bit the blade of the front - just to sand all the edges like making chamfers. However, don't sand too

much, - the end of the blade still does not have to very sharp.

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Seal wood inside this part of pipe with wood sealer couple times with light sanding between coats with #400

sand paper.

If you want to lacquer or paint the pipes you may do it now. Actually, the lacquering or painting is recommended. Before applying the lacquer plain and sand the pipes outside, seal them, and if necessary close all gaps with wood putty.

5. Inserting the brass tubes.

In the bag #8 find parts 3 and 4 ( brass tubes). Smaller tubes (1/4") will be inserted into the holes in pipes #6 to #20. The larger tubes (5/16") will be inserted into the holes of pipes #2 to #5, and later to pipe #1.

To insert tubes use a small hummer and piece of hard wood to protect edges of the tube (see picture below).

Hummer the tube until its edge starts to expose from other side of the hole, but leave at least 20 mm of the tube length outside ( as pipes are of different sizes, the depth of inserting may differ also).

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After all brass tubes are inserted add couple drops of Crazy Glue along the round line between brass and wood to secure the parts.

6. Stoppers.

To make stoppers find parts #1 (leather), 2 (screws) and 7 (stoppers) in the bag #8.

Every stopper has number on it corresponding to the pipe number.

There is a hole in the center of each stopper. Screw in a screw into it until the end of the screw starts to expose

on the other side.

The size of the stopper (just wooden part, without leather) in fact should be 1 mm smaller than inner size of the

pipe. So, if you place the stopper into the pipe (holding for the head of the screw) you will see a gap about 0.5

mm all around between the plywood stopper piece and pipe opening. This gap should be filled with leather.

First prepare the plywood piece by sanding it a little and making chamfers (about 1 mm) on all edges.

Clamp pipe in vertical position with its opening up. Cut piece of leather with the size about 1" bigger then size of

the stopper. Pup it flat to the top of the pipe, closing the opening. Pup the stopper onto the leather and push it

into the pipe by half-way.

Stopper must fit tightly to the hole.

While pushing you may see (or rather feel) one of three results:

1. Stopper inserts too tightly into the pipe. That is not good, as it may split the pipe body. There is simple way to

fix the problem. Remove the stopper and take off the leather. The leather in the pack has different thickness in

different areas. Choose thinner piece and repeat the procedure.

If it does not help you may have to sand a little bit one or other side of the plywood piece to make it smaller.

2. Stopper moves to loosely in the channel. To fix that problem you may glue to this or that side of the stopper a

thin piece of veneer or thick paper to enlarge it a little bit.

3. But most likely stopper fits to the pipe good, and you will insert it with a moderate force.

If you satisfy with stopper tightness, take it and piece of leather out.

Apply small amount of reduced glue to the bottom of the plywood wood piece and its sides. The layer of the glue

must be thin so it would not penetrate to other side of the leather. Insert it again with a leather until upper

surface is leveled to the edge of the pipe.

Using sharp blade trim leather excess and push stopper 10-15 mm farther into the pipe.

Series of following picture illustrate the whole process.

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7.Caps.

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The last stage in pipe building is shaping and attaching the cap. Find the pack of caps in the bag #8 (part 5). You

will also need screws from this bag (part 2).

Like many other parts in the kit, the caps are almost done. These are pre-shaped and pre-drilled.

Sand and finishing them and cover with lacquer.

The last and most important part of the job is forming the gap.

In the picture in the chapter "Pipe Anatomy" you will see the place in the cap where the gap suppose to be. In the

supplied caps there is not yet any gaps and this will have to be made.

The width of the gap must be between 0.3 mm (in smallest pipes) to 0.5 mm (in lager pipes).

I usually make the gap with a fine file. But it is suggested that you make a special tool to avoid making too big a

gap.

For this purpose cut the piece of hard wood 200x40 mm , and thickness of 4 mm. Cut a strip of 200 grit sand

paper 8 mm width and 40 mm long. Measure the thickness. It is probably less than 0.3 mm.

Glue a piece of paper to the back of the sand paper, or two pieces, - until thickness is 0.3 mm. Then glue this

layers to the plank you just made along its' center line.

Use this tool to file the gap in 6 smallest caps (two protrudes of the "file" at both side will prevent to over-filling

the gaps).

In the picture I show the tool made of clear acrylic, for better viewing. It is suggested that you also make it from

acrylic for better control in making the gaps.

Next increase the sanding layers to a thickness of 0.4 mm and make gaps in the next 6 pipe caps.

Finally sand the gaps in the caps for the rest of the pipes with a layer of 0.5 mm.

With a chisel or sharp knife make final touch-ups closer to the sides of gaps.

Sand a little with 400 grit sand paper making small chamfers at both sides of the gap.

During this procedure you can control the sound quality of the pipe. To do so attach the cap to a pipe (of the

same number) with masking tape.

IMPORTANT: The top edges of the cap and tooth of the block must be leveled.

Blow into the brass tube lightly, similar to playing recorder and you will hear clear a musical tone.

If the gap is too narrow, the sound will be weak and husky. If gap is too big, you will have to blow a lot of air.

REMEMBER: it is easier to enlarge the gap later than to make it smaller. Avoid making too big gap. If this

happens don't worry, it is still possible to sand the whole cap on its inner side, and the gap will became

smaller.

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After all caps are ready, attach them to the pipes with masking tape, insert two screws into the holes and using a

screwdriver screw them into the sides of the pipe. For a better job rub screws with candle first.

Now, 19 pipes are done.

8. Pipe #1.

This is the last pipe you have to make. The pipe #1 is the lowest sounded pipe in an organ. Therefore, it is the

longest one. To fit this pipe into the organ we will "fold" it almost twice. As a result it is different comparing to

other. If you will look carefully at the pictures and at the contents of the bag #7, you will note the difference.

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1. Back and front (parts 1 and 2) are of a different shape.

2. It has 3 (not 2 ) sides (parts 3, 4 and 5). The "middle side" I called center.

3. It has a wall on its end ("end", part 6)

4. It has a separate blade, not as a part of the front (part 9).

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But the idea is the same, and as you are now familiar with pipes anatomy and technology you can easily build

this one as well. Do not hurry, refer to pictures above.

Start with gluing part 3, 8 and 5 using assembling jig to make a frame.

Glue frame to the back (part 1). Use jig.

IMPORTANT: before applying the last clamp be sure center is lined up to the back shape.

Glue the end to the back, center and long side.

Glue short side to back and end (use jig) (see picture at right)

Glue front to the frame (use jig).

Glue blade to the front, center and side.

Now follow the steps you made building the pipes 2-20 to complete the pipe.

Do not forget: hole in the back for the brass tube is 5/16" (7.6-7.8 mm).

9. Pipes panel.

This is a panel for mounting all 20 pipes of your organ. Find parts 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the bag#18.

The panel has marked with four rectangular windows for exposing blades and caps of the pipes 1-4, as these are

mounted on the back of the panel. All other pipes 5-20 are mounted on the front of the panel. There is also cut

out marked in the lower part of the panel. This is for brass tubes of the pipes, which have to be exposed at the

back of the plate.

Using proper tools carefully cut out the holes for pipes and cut out and clean with sandpaper, preparing for

finishing.

Assemble all parts as shown with glue using assembling jig (look at the pictures). Note, that two consoles are not

equal. Left console (looking from the front of the organ) has three holes, and right console has one hole. These

holes allow tuning tool to reach the stoppers screws of pipes during the tuning the pipes#1 to #4.

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After consoles are glued screw in five round cap brass screws on each side of the panel 1/4" (6 mm) from the

edge of the panel to enforce the joint. Then glue structure plank to the upper edge of the panel. If the plank is

too long shorter it. If it is too short add piece of veneer so that plank will fit exactly between two consoles.

Then add two screws to the ends of the plank as shown.

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Now the panel is ready for pipes installation.

Put the panel in flat horizontal position.

Place pipes on the top as shown in the following order (from left to right):

20,18,16,14,12,10,8,6,5,7,9,11,13,15,17,19.

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The whole group of the pipes must be in the center of the panel, so that the distance between both ends of the

panel and first - or last - pipe should be equal.

Lower edge of the pipes must be leveled to the lower edge of the panel (not to the line of cut out).

You may use ruler or assembling jig to level the pipes:

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Mark the position of every pipe with pencil.

Now you have a diagram of the pipes on the panel. For better viewing I made all lines with the marker.

Make vertical center line on the panel of each pipe position.

Now mark two the points on each centre line: one 3/4" (20 mm) from the lower edge of the panel, and one

more - at the same distance from the upper line of the pipe. I have marked these points with a circles.

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With a 2.5 mm drill bit make holes on marked points.

Then turn the panel upside down and make countersink for flat head screws.

Sand panel with 220 grit sand paper and cover front side with flat dark paint.

You may want to make more fancy finishing, like veneering, or hand painting. However, do not waste your time.

The surface of the panel is exposed only at 10-15%, and after covering with front decorative panel - even less. I

mostly use regular paint for the walls - black, maroon or dark green. Flat or textured ones are the best. Apply it

with small roller.

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Place the panel in vertical position onto flat even surface. You may use piece of plywood for the organ base.

One again place all set of the pipes close to the panel and centre it. Especially check if there is enough gap

between first and last pipe's brass tube and consoles. The gap must be big enough at both sides to insert the

flexible vinyl tubing onto the brass tube.

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After centering all the set, carefully insert and screw in a small brass screw into the lower hole of the pipe #5.

After tightening the screw, remove the rest of the pipes from right side, check the vertical and put the second

screw into the upper hole.

Now you can install all other pipes, one by one, placing it close to the previous installed pipe. When you finished

with all pipes at right side (uneven, from #5 to #19), install all the left pipes (even, from #6 to #20).

Now we will install pipes #1- #4.

Pup something soft to the bench to protect pipes and place the panel in horizontal position back side up.

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From the lower square hole to the upper one place one by one pipes #1, then #2, #3 and #4. Every pipe must be

placed so that it's cap is inserted into the hole and moved towards the nearest console to the end.

Place all these pipes parallel to each other.

Cut two pieces of wood or plywood 3/4" x 2-1/8" x 3" ( 20x55x75 mm) where 2-1/8" (55 mm) - height - is

important dimension. Glue these two pieces to the panel in front of each other, approximate in the center of the

panel and close to pipe #1 and #4, as shown. Put the piece of wax paper between the wood and pipes to protect

pipes from the glue.

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Cut four pieces of 1/4" (6 mm) plywood approximate 3/8" x 3/4" (10x20 mm). Glue them to the panel close to the

upper end of each pipes to secure pipes position.

Cut piece of 1/4" plywood 2" x 8-1/2" (50 x 210mm). When glue is dried, screw this plywood with two screws to

the lower wood piece as shown. Now insert three pieces of rubber tubing 5/16" (8 mm) wide (Cut these off of

part 3, bag #13. ) into the gap between plywood and pipes #2, #3 and #4. These rubber bands will serve as a

springs pushing pipes to the plate surface. Now you can install one more screw bending plywood to the second

wood stand.

Pipes panel is ready and may be installed to the base.

10.Base.

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Find part 6 in the bag #18. This is a 1/2" plywood 440 x 320 mm. At the wide side of the base make cut out as

shown on the picture and sketch.

Put assembled pipe panel onto the base leveling their sides. Ends of both consoles must be on the distance of 6-

3/4" (172 mm) from the front line of the base (note arrow).

With pencil mark the position of the panel consoles on the base, take off the base and drill two 3/16" (4 mm)

holes at both sides of the base. The distance between holes and side edges of the base is 3/4" (20 mm). Make

countersinks for flat head screws 1" (25 mm) long and secure the consoles.

23 mm

24 mm

15 mm 50 mm

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Now both panel and base are ready, and we can start to make next part of the

organ.

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Part 5. Receiver.

Receiver is one of the simplest part of the organ, however it's role is very important. First,

receiver smoothes the cyclical air supplied by the bellows. Secondary, it regulates air tension

in the system.

Receiver consists of two plates, folder, spring clamp and valve. The pressure of approximate 5

inches of the water column achieves due to powerful spring clamp. Extra supplied air goes out

through the valve, when plates are "opened" too widely.

Find parts for receiver: all parts in the bag# 1, and also parts #4 and # 10 from the bag # 9, and

part 5 from the bag #18.

1. Tools.

You would need two special tools for making the parts. One is small rubber roll, second is a flat

piece of hardwood 2 mm thick, about 10 mm wide and pen-length. With a sand paper round

and smooth all edges on this stick and rub it with a candle.

For the folders you will use contact cement, jell formula ( refer to the chapter TOOLS AND

MATERIALS). Use wide (1") brush to apply the glue.

2. Folders.

Take parts 4 from the bag #9. This is a fabric for the folder and patterns of folders plates.

First, glue the paper sheet with patterns to the cardboard ( part 5 in the bag #18). Cut out all

patterns to make a templates. Using these templates mark and then cut out all folder plates out

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of cardboard. For best results use X-acto knife or other sharp knife. Note that all sharp edges of

the triangles are cut out. Mark vertical center lines on all rectangular plates. Quantity of every

plate is indicated on the patterns. Note, that bigger parts are for the receiver, and smaller parts

are for the bellows. We will start with receiver parts.

For receiver cut out piece of fabric approximate 38" x 16" (960 mm x 410 mm). Spread it on a

flat even surface, with a wax paper putted under the fabric.

Mark horizontal and vertical center lines on the fabric. Then fix the fabric on the table with

masking tape so that the fabric have a possibility to fold along the horizontal center line.

Mark one more horizontal line in the center of lower part of the fabric.

Put all plates for receiver onto the fabric as shown.

Note that center lines of rectangular plates are lined with vertical center line of the fabric. Make gap between

similar parts of about 2,5 - 3 mm. Outline the layout with pencil ( for better visibility I used marker). Take all

plates off the fabric. Add addition outlines 1" (25 mm) off of plate marks.

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Now spread the glue all over all parts - at both sides - and then fabric, covering both lower part of fabric and

upper part.

When glue is dried (but not later than 30 minutes after applying the glue) , put all plates back to the fabric and

carefully cover with upper part of fabric along the it's horizontal center line.

Now all cardboard plates are between two fabric layers. Use rubber roll to press fabric to plates at both sides,

and wooden stick to press fabric to fabric along the gaps.

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After folder is completely dried (at least 2 hours) add one more layer of glue to the fabric at one side around the

plates at a distance of 1" of their edges, and also at all gaps. This layer will be an additional air sealer for the

fabric.

Let folder dry another 2 hours, and cut out the folder along the outlines.

Although we make receiver, not bellows, it is good time now to make folder for bellows too.

The technique and procedure are the same. The difference is only:

- size of the fabric is 38" x 24" (960 mm x 610 mm);

- all plates are smaller;

- you will make 2 folders at a time.

The layout of the plates looks like this:

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After you complete this work you will have three folders: one bigger for receiver, and two narrower for bellows:

3. Assembling.

Find part 10 from bag# 9. This is thick leather for receiver and bellows hinges.

Cut out piece of leather 40 mm wide and 150 mm length. Shape it as shown and glue to both sides (bag #1, parts

1 and 2). After glue dries this piece of leather will serve as a hinge for two sides.

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Find parts 14 , 9, 5 and 6 in the bag #1. Insert brass I-connectors into the holes of structure plank with vise or

hammer as shown .

IMPORTANT: Brass connector has shorter and longer ends. Drive the shorter one into the wood.

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Secure brass connector with Crazy Glue. Glue caps to the structure plank to cover rectangular hollow above two

round holes.

Glue and screw side panel (part 1) and structure plank through two holes in the side aligning their edges.

IMPORTANT: The holes in the side and plank must be aligned. The shorter end of the plank must be at the side

of the part 1 where a center smaller hole is drilled.

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Fold the folder along the center line and insert between two sides of the receiver. Secure with a pair of spring

clamps. Apply contact cement to the edges of the folder and wood surfaces of the sides. After drying for 20

minutes press folder's fabric to the wood.

Now, take off clamps, "open" sides and fold remaining parts of folder inside the receiver. Apply clamps. Glue

edges of the folder to the wood. If needed trim the angles for better contacts with wood.

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After the folder is completely and tightly (with no gaps) glued to the sides, you may make a valve.

Cut out piece of valve leather (part *, bag #1) 1" x 2" (25x 50 mm) and glue it to the side so that it would cover

the hole completely. Apply glue only to the shaded area (see picture above). Apply clamp with piece of wood just

to press leather to the wood. After glue dries glue part 4 (bag #1) as shown.

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While glue dries you may insert screw with spring and washers as shown, and also smaller screw with washer into

other side edge (parts 10, 11, 12, 15 and 16 of bag #1).

When glue dries, tight the thread (part 7, bag #1) to the smaller screw and to the valve. Adjust the length of the

tread such a way that valve starts to open when the distance between two sides is 3-1/2" (85 mm).

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The receiver is done. We just have to calibrate the pressure inside .

4. Pressure adjustment.

It is very important that the pressure in the system is 5 inches of the water column. The pressure inside the

receiver regulates very easily - just by moving the powerful spring clamp closer to the end of the sides or farther.

But first we have to make a simple pressure guide to find exact placement of the clamp.

To make it take piece of wood or plywood approximate 12" x 4". Find tubing - part 1 in the bag #13, cut a piece

approximate 6 feet or 2 meters. Make U-shape form of the tube and attach it to the wood with any tape as

shown.

Note that one end of the tube is a little above the upper edge of the wood. Clamp device in vise. Attach part 2

from the bag #9 to the long end of the tubing and seal it tightly so no air will be pass through the connection.

With rubber tubing - part 3 of bag #13 - connect both L-connector and one - any - I-connector of the receiver.

Other I-connector of the receiver attach to the flexible tubing - part 4 of bag #13. You will blow later into the

other end of this tubing. Now device looks like on the pictures.

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Carefully add water into the upper short end of the clear vinyl tubing until water level reach 2/3 of the wood

length. Check if no air balls inside the tubing. Mark the water level with marker and put "0". This is starter point

of measurement. Now make another mark 2-1/2" (64 mm) lower the starter point and put "!". This is the point of

the pressure guide we need to achieve.

Apply spring clamp (part 3, bag#1) to the receiver sides to the end. Blow into the flexible tube until sides are

almost fully "open" , looking at the same time to the level of the water.

If level pass lower then mark "!" (pressure is too high) move clamp a little out of the end of receiver side.

If level did not reach the mark "!" (pressure is too low) move clamp closer to receiver OR put piece of plywood

between clamp and side.

When water level is on the mark "!" you did the job. Now carefully mark the position of the clamp, release it,

disconnect all tubing.

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Part 6. Bellows.

Bellows construction is close - almost similar - to receiver. The difference is that bellows have two

folders with center plate between. Two sides are places with a fixed angle , and center plates goes back

and force between sides, pumping the air to the system.

Another difference is that there are two valve boxes at both sides. We will start with bellows body,

and then add valve boxes.

1.Bellows body.

All wooden parts for the body are in the bag #2. Find parts 1 and 2. Cut out and glue leather hinge by

the same way you did with receiver. After glue is dried fold these parts and apply the clamp for an

hour. Then attach one of two folders that you already made by the same manner you attached folder

to receiver.

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Cut out one more leather hinge and glue it to the center plate (the one without holes) and another

side plate (part 3). To do that first level both surfaces.

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Before gluing the second folder trim one of the side leaving 15 mm of fabric edge.

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Place the second folder between center panel and side with a trimmed edge toward the center panel,

and glue it in.

2. Valve boxes.

Find parts 1 and 2 in the bag #9. Insert brass connectors into the holes in parts 16 and 17 of the bag #2

using vise or press (drill pres works too).

Important: do not glue connectors to wood parts yet.

Using the jig assemble two box frames as shown. Note that ends of each frames are wooden parts (16,

17, 18 and 19) with holes (with one brass connector inserted ) and central part has no holes (part 20

and 21).

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Glue part 10 to the bottom of the frame with L-connector, leaving 15 mm at the right side (look at the

picture) leveling to one of the frame edges (look at the pictures).

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Plain surfaces of the frames using files and sandpaper, preparing for gluing frames to the sides of the

body. Put frame with L-shaped connector onto the side of the bellows body leveling bottom edges and

mark with pencil as shown. Remove fabric from the contact points, apply glue and attach frame to the

side.

Cut out two pieces of 1/4" (6 mm ) plywood 2-3/4" x 3/4" (70 x 20 mm), drill two 1/8" (3.5 mm) holes in

each with even distance from the edges . Distance between holes must be exactly 55 mm.

Mark central points of all 4 (longer)edges of the sides and drill with 2.5 mm holes. Install plywood strips

into these holes with four 1/2" (25 mm) screws as shown. Put a washer with each screw between body

and wooden strip. Check the movement of the center plate between sides: the center plate should not

touch the plywood strip.

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Lay the bellows down to the flat surface as shown. Put second frame onto the side in front of the first

frame you just glued. Mark the position with pencil, remove fabric from contact points. Look to the

connectors. You will see that two brass connectors not lined up to each other. With the pliers turn them

so that they are lined . Glue connectors to the wood with Crazy Glue.

Cut piece of rubber tube (part 3, bag #13) 2" (51 mm) long. Insert it to the L-connector. Add glue to

contact places for other frame, insert tube into T-connector and glue frame to the side.

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3.Valves.

Find parts 11-14 in the bag #2 and leather for valves - part 5, bag #9. Cut out four pieces of leather 35 x

20 mm. Glue these to the valves with wood glue as shown .

Clean and sand if necessary inner surfaces of the valve boxes. Then using contact cement glue extension

part of leather of the valve to upper frame parts as shown.

IMPORTANT: mark position of each valve before gluing and be sure that leathered part of the valve

covers hole completely.

IMPORTANT: while gluing place valve UP to the end.

IMPORTANT: after gluing check the valve movement; during the movement the valve should not

touch anything with its edges.

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Glue parts 4 and 5 to close the valve boxes. Use small amount of glue so that it would not get inside the

boxes.

There are still two open holes at the end of the valve boxes. These are air intake holes. To, protect the

air of any particles cover holes with a mesh (part 15 of bag #2) cutting it up to shape and putting a

Liquid Nail glue along the perimeters.

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Find parts 1 and 2 from the bag #11. Install console to the center plate of the bellows as shown. Leave a

small gap between extended end of the shoulder screw and fabric of the body.

Now make a spacer of 1/2" plywood. Cut out piece of plywood of the same size as the structure plank

(part 10) and glue it to the plank.

You may now cover all open wooden surfaces - both of receiver and bellows - with varnish. The goal is

not only to protect them, but - more important - to close any possible air gaps between wooden parts,

and wood and fabric as well. Several layers of shellac is a possible choice.

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Part 7. Pressure Box.

Pressure box is a closed airtight box with higher air pressure inside. The main parts are body, door,

tracker bar, lead spool and cartridge for music roll. Pressured air goes into the pressure box from

receiver.

While music strip moves from music spool to the leading spool the perforated holes of the strip meet

holes of the tacking bar. When it happens the air immediately leads trough the trackers' hole to the

according pipe, and the pipe sounds.

1. Body.

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All wooden parts of the body is in the bag #10.

Find parts 1 and 5 in this bag, also parts 8 of bag #15, and part 8 of bag #14.

Insert one-way bearing and brass sleeve bearing into the holes of part 1 as shown.

IMPORTANT: The one-way bearing must be inserted by such a way that the axle inserted can turn in

clockwise direction, not counterclockwise (if you look at the previous picture).

Assemble parts 1, 5, 6 and 16 as shown. Before installing the screws add glue to the contact surfaces.

IMPORTANT: All front edges of the box must be leveled. If these are not leveled during the

assembling you may put it down to the bench and tap with a hammer before the glue is dried.

Insert L-connector (part 2, bag #9) into the hole in part 15 as shown. Glue part 17 to part 15 as shown.

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Glue part 10 to the part 1, and part 9 to the part 5 as shown.

Glue part 15 to assembled frame of the body as shown.

IMPOTANT: check the distance between front edge of the box and back (part 15) before glue dries.

The distance at the bottom and at the top must be equal.

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Close all the gaps along the edges with thick glue, putty or Liquid Nail glue.

Glue part 7 to the left side of the box, covering the hole as shown.

You may now put the laquer to the outside surfaces of the pressure box. Do not laquer the inner

surfaces yet.

Especially pay attantion to the finishing the front (face) edges of the box. This is where rubber sealing

will be attached later, and it's selfstick surface "loves" smooth and laquered wood.

2. Cartridge.

Find parts 12, 13 and 14. Fold and put the wax paper on the bottom of the box as shown. Assemble the

cartridge as shown, without glue yet. Insert cartridge into the box. Insert music roll with spool into the

cartridge and check how the spool fits the cartridge.

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NOTE: First make a cutout in the spool's longer axle protrude and insert nylon gear (read instruction to

the music spool for more details).

The spool must turn between sides of the cartridge freely but without noticeable lost motion.

If the spool turns tightly, sand left side of the cartridge (part 13).

If there is a big lost motion, glue thin piece of veneer to the outer surface of this side.

Apply glue to the ends of the dowels, install cartridge to the box and apply clamps as shown.

Fold wax paper over the sides and glue parts 8 and 11 to inside walls of the box, pushing them down.

Note that longer slide rail is glued to the left wall, and shorter rail - to the right wall of the box. Both are

leveled to the front edge of the box. When glue dries remove the wax paper and assure that cartridge

moves back and force freely.

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Then insert a spool with music roll. Cartridge with the spool must slide into the box freely.

Now insert the axle with gear (part 9 and 7, bag #14) into the sleeve and secure the axle with parts 7

and 6 from outside the box. The axle must turn freely, but without noticeable lost motion. Slide in the

cartridge with the spool again. In the end position two nylon gears must be engaged.

If these are not completely engaged, sand the back of the cartridge so that it will go more deeply into

the box.

If gear are completely engaged but there is a gap between back of the cartridge and back of the box,

cover this gap with piece of leather glued to the back of the box.

3. Leading spool.

Find all parts in bag #13. Carefully disassemble the axle, making notes about location of each part on

the axle.

Assemble parts 1, 11 and 12. Insert wooden parts into the cylinder by hammer.

Important: the wooden parts are not similar. One has a small additional eccentric hole. Look at the

picture to determine the end of the cylinder where this wooden parts must be inserted.

Now, hammer four nails into the holes in cylinder. Do not drive nails to the end. Hammer only 4-6 mm,

then cut extended part of the nail and hammer to the end.

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Insert the axle into the hole in right side of the box. Put all parts onto the axle in the following

consequence(from the inside of the box): Nylon sleeve, two collars, cheek (part 3), cylinder, cheek (part

2), collar with leading pin, nylon sleeve bearing.

NOTE: The leading pin of the left collar must go through the holes in left cheek and left wooden insert

into the cylinder. Insert other end of the axle into the second hole (in left side).

Move the axle left to the end. Move right collar to the right - to the end. Tight the collar's screw. Be sure

the axle turns freely but without horizontal lost motion. With a help of big screwdriver or chisel move

the cylinder together with two cheeks and two collars to the left or right until the distance between

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inner surface of left cheek of both music spool and leading spool to the side of the box are equal. When

job is done, put some drops of the Crazy Glue between cheeks and cylinder to secure them.

Put the pulley (part 6) to the axle with grove side towards the inserted short taper pin. Insert the

washer, spring and another washer, and finely insert long taper pin to lock the system.

4. Rewinding lever.

Open bag #12. With a hammer insert two wire ends into the holes of lever to the end. Glue in the

wooden knob into the hole. Bend wire at approximate 10-15 degrees as shown. Insert wire between

pulley and side of the box and center it to the pulley. Move lever to the left until wire touches the

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upper edge of the box and put a screw into the side edge trough the hole in the lever. Do not tight the

screw. The lever must move freely allowing the knob to be pressed down.

Push the knob to the end. Wire must move the pulley to the right so that it disengages from the pin in

the axle.

Realize the knob. The spring will push the pulley back to its first position.

Regulate the angle of the wire if necessary.

5. Tracker bar.

This is one of the most important parts in organ. Carefully follow the instruction while assembling it.

Find parts in the bag #3. Send and clean all surfaces of parts 1 and 2. Don't leave any wood particles

inside. Check if no gaps are between holes (actually these are just half-holes yet) and between vertical

grooves. If you will find any damages like that, fill them over with wood filler.

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Using reduced wood glue join two parts together. Be sure you glue two parts as needed: after gluing

there should be a row of 20 holes at one side as shown. Note that 5 first holes at left are larger than

other.

The opposite side will have two rows of holes of the rectangular form. Use four small pieces of dowel to

fixate parts , so that they will not move during applying the clamps. Cut dowels a little larger than

needed, let them to protrude about 1/4" . Immediately after clamps are applied carefully clean glue

inside the holes. If you have compressor you may blow glue recess out. Or you can use thin brush to

clean the glue.

Take part 3. Using hand tool of drill press make deep (about 2 mm) countersinks.

IMPORTANT: The countersinks must NOT be touch each other.

Look on the picture to determine what side of part 3 you have to work with. Note that first 5 holes at

left are larger than other 15. Glue all parts together as shown. While gluing insert dowels of parts 1 and

2 to the base (part 3). Use reduced glue and clean maximum glue recess. Do not mix up the gluing

sides.

IMPORTANT: after inserting dowels into the base and before gluing look thru the holes to ensure all

holes in the base are corresponded with all holes in the body: all the rectangular holes in the body

must be visible thru the round holes in the base.

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Note that countersinks are inside the bar and 5 bigger holes in the base are at the same side as 5 bigger

holes in the body.

When tracker bar is dried, mark on its side an arc as shown. Make the radius of the arc about 1/2" (12

mm). Using small plane, or file form the upper surface of the tracker bar accordingly to this arc as

show. Sand with 220 grit sand paper, then 400, and put several coats of clear lacquer.

Now insert brass tubes into the base same way as you did it with pipes. Note, that first 5 tubes are

5/16", and other 15 tubes are 1/4".

Put Crazy Glue around the tubes gluing them to the wood.

The tracker bar is ready now and may be installed into the pressure box.

Put the pressure box on the bench with its opening up. Insert tracker bar into the pressure box as

shown. Place tracker bar between walls of the box, approximate at the equal distances of them. Make it

parallel to the leading axle. Mark center points in each of all four slots of the base with an awl and insert

four screws with washers (parts 4 and 5). DO NOT TIGHT YET. The tracker bar still has to have an ability

to be moved to the left or right.

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Insert the cartridge with music roll YANKEE DOODLE, included in the kit. Roll the music tape onto the

leading spool until the very first row of perforated holes is lined to the tracker bar holes. With a big

screwdriver move the tracker bar to the left or right until all three perforated holes are perfectly lined

with corresponding bar holes (the very right perforation on the picture is aligned with the first bar hole).

Take the music roll off. Tight four bar screws. Turn the pressure box upside down. Put (any) glue along

the gap between tracker bar base and pressure box wall. Mark the numbers as shown.

6. Door.

All parts for the door are in the bag #19. Assembling the door must be provided on the even flat

surfaces, like your bench. The gluing technology shown below based on heavy weights you can use

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instead of clamps (which are not convenient to apply to the table). But for the best result I would

recommend to use a specially made padding. Cut out it of 3/4" plywood (flat, not bent!), with the sizes

210x300 mm, that is a little bigger than door. Put the wax paper on this pad. Put then parts 5 and 6 as

shown with a glue between them and connect with masking tape. Turn this frame upside down. Cover

it with glue and put parts 3 and 4 on the top with glue added between them. Connect 3 and 4 planks

with masking tape. align the outer edges of both frames. Apply clamps along the perimeter. Clean all

glue recesses. Let dry overnight.

Sand ready door frame with 220 grit sandpaper, and put several coats of clear lacquer or varnish. Do

the same with the base (part 1). Install supplied hinges. Attach the base to the pressure box with two 1"

screws with brass decorative washers, adding the glue between base and box.

INPORTANT: During the attaching check if all outer edges of the door are aligned with box edges.

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Find part 9 in the bag #9. Apply rubber sealing to the front edges of the pressure box starting at the

bottom as shown. Don't cut it at the box angles, just fold at 90 degrees and continue to apply. At the

and leave extra 1/8" (3 mm) and push this end into its place.

Open the door, put the glass (part 7) into the opening as shown. Put several drops of the Crazy Glue at

the corner of the glass just to fixate it on the place. Add "bath and kitchen" clear sealant along the glass

perimeter to cover all gaps between glass and wood frame. Let it dry overnight.

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7. Lock.

The lock consists of three parts : 2,3 and 4 of the bag #10. Glue them together as shown. Sand and

lacquer (DO NOT LACQUER the bottom part. This surface will be glued to the pressure box later).

Mark the center line on the upper plate of the pressure box. Close the door and apply the lock onto the

door and box along the center line. Now applying the pressure to the door (trying to close it as tight as

you can with your fingers) mark the points corresponded to the hole(s) in the lock. Releaser the door.

Apply glue to the lower surface of the lock and screw it to the box. Rub the end of the lock (tip) with

candle.

Now close the door again until lock clicks and catch the door.

NOTE. In a future rubber sealant may press down a little. It may course to depressurize the system. If it

happens, just add thin piece of veneer or brass plate between lock tip and door frame.

Insert the cartridge into the pressure box. Apply the short piece of "kitchen" sealant to the fronts of its

sides as shown. Similar pieces of sealant apply to the frame onto inside surface exactly in front of the

first ones (see picture). Now the door will push the cartridge to the back of the box, providing good

engagement of two gears.

The pressure box is completely ready now.

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Part 8. Assembling the unit.

We have base plate with pipes panel installed. Next step is installing the receiver.

1. Receiver installation.

Cut out three simple parts of 1/2" (12 mm) plywood:

a) 90x40 mm;

b) 30x110 mm with 100x10 mm cutout;

c) 80x60 mm with 20x37 mm cutout.

Glue part "a)" to the right console as shown.

Insert receiver between two consoles with the angle so that left end of receiver's structure plank touches the

pipes panel and it's right end touches the part "a". Clamp part "c" to the left console so that it catches and tightly

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fixates the structure plank. Insert two 3/4" screws to the "c" part to hold it in place. Now fixate right end of

structure plank by the same way using part "b".

Gluing parts "a", "b" and "c" is not necessary, we would rather have a possibility to disassemble unit for possible

future needs.

Install the spring clamp according to the marks you made before. (You may take off the clamp during the next

jobs to make them easier. Just put it back after all is done.)

2. Pressure box installation.

Connect two brass tubes of pressure box and receiver with flexible tube 90 mm long (part 4, bag #13). Before

connecting apply small amount of Liquid Nail glue to the brass connectors (not inside the flexible tubing). Right

after inserting the tubing install the pressure box to the corner of the base plate and screw with four 3/4"

wood screws as shown. Check the condition of the glue and spread it out to seal the connections.

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Find bag 15 with all parts of the main axle. Unscrew and take off the short brass lever. Take off four washers and

brass sleeve bearing. Insert sleeve into the hole in the pressure box side (it should fit tightly). Fixate it with a

drop of Crazy Glue (be carefully, avoid spieling the glue inside the sleeve).

Insert the main axle into the corresponded hole in other side of the pressure box - to the end. Put washers and

brass lever back and tight it with screw (part 12).

NOTE: The axle should rotate freely, in one direction, without noticeable lost motion. You may find that you will

not need all four washers. You may use more or less of them, but it is important that no axle part goes out of the

brass lever hole.

Find parts3, 4 and 5 from the bag #11. Take one of levers (part 4) with small two holes in the center (not the

one with slots), insert sleeve 14 (bag 15). Insert screw 5 (bag 11) and tight it to squeeze the sleeve in the hole.

Insert lever with sleeve onto the shoulder screw ( part 13, bag 15) between two washers and screw it tightly.

Drop Crazy Glue to secure the screw on its place.

3. Bellows installation.

Take another wooden lever (part 4 from the bag #11),which has two slots in the center part, insert the brass

sleeve of the bellows steel bracket by the same way as you did with the first lever. Install lever onto shoulder

screw of the bracket as shown. Screw it tightly and fixate with drop of Crazy Glue.

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Cut out piece of rubber tubing 130 mm long (part 3, bag 13). Insert it into the brass connectors of receiver and

bellows as shown. Install bellows close to the pressure box and screw it with two 1" wood screws.

With spring clamp removed open the receiver to the end and check if it touches the bellows. If so, unscrew a

little the small screw holding the thread loop make one knot on a thread. This will shorten thread a little. There

must be a small gap between the opened receiver and bellows after the receivers' valve is opened.

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The next step is a reinforcement of two units: bellows and pressure box so that they would not move during the

air blowing.

Cut out two pieces of 1/4" (6 mm) plywood : 190 x 110 mm, and 180x90 mm.

One more part is made of 3/4" (20 mm) solid wood - hard or soft: 110 x 85 mm.

Glue two plywood parts to the structure plank of the pipes panel as shown. Bigger part is corresponding to

the bellows, smaller one to the pressure box.

Glue the solid wood part to the upper part of the bellow so that it would touch the plywood part.

Now screw bigger plywood part to the solid wood piece, and shorter plywood part to the top of the pressure

box as shown.

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Now let's connect two wooden levers (one of the bellows, and one of the main axle) into the single unit and

regulate the blowing action.

Combine two levers by putting one with slots (bellows' one) onto one with holes (axles' one). Install two screws

with washers into the slots and tight it - not too tightly yet.

Turn the handle of the main axle once. You will see that the center panel of the bellows makes one movement -

back and force. In every ending position of the center panel there is a definite distance between panel and one

of bellows sides. Regulate this movement by changing levers position on each other until both these distances

are equal.

Tight two screws. Put several drops of the Crazy Glue to connect both levers securely.

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Put the green belt onto both small and large white pulleys. Take a metal or nylon ball bearing pulley for sliding

doors about 20-25 mm diameter and attach between both white pulleys as shown. To align this pulley to the

white pulleys use several washers installed between the door pulley and pressure box. Installation the door

pulley will increase the coverage of main axle pulley by the belt from 170 grad to 270 grad.

NOTE: Avoid to touch the belt with oily hands. After all work on the organ is done, weep the belt and the

pulley surfaces with alcohol and rub with violin resin to increase the friction.

Part 9. Tubing.

This is a process of connecting brass tubes of the pipes to corresponding brass tubes of the tracker bar.

The main rules are:

1. You are free to try that or this way of placing tubing inside the organ.

2. The installed tubing should not bother any moving parts of the organ - receiver and bellows movements, levers

and axles movements, so on.

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3. Using a glue is not required.

4. It is recommended to use long tips pliers to insert the tubing. You may also use a dowel as a "needle" to place

the tubing thru the tight places (look at the pictures).

5. Do not forget: first 5 brass tubes have bigger diameter , another 15 brass tubes has smaller one. Kit includes

both small and bigger tubing, with are in the bag # 13.

It is recommended to start with connecting pipes # 19 to 7, then 5, then 20 to 6, then 3 , 1 and 4.

Start with inserting tubing onto the brass tube of the pressure box. Then pass the line to the brass tube of the

corresponding pipe, cut it, and insert onto the tube with pliers. Look at the following pictures for understanding

the process.

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Part 10. Tuning.

Tuning is the final step in making the organ. This is actually quite a simple process, however, there is one pitfall,

confusing moment. After all 20 pipes are tuned, - one by one, with an electronic tuner, you may find that music

tune sounds still very funny, if not awfully when you install a music roll.

The matter is, pipes in organ practically never sounds by one. This moment you may hear a single pipe, and next

moment two or three more pipes are added. The receiver helps a lot to keep air pressure on definite level, but it

has its own limitations.

As a result, air pressure in the system vary all the time. It effects on tune of the bass and treble pipes. Treble

(small, high sounded) pipes are not so critical to the air pressure changing as bass(bigger, lower sounded) ones.

So, with a small degreasing of the pressure the bass pipes sound much lower than treble.

It is recommended therefore to tune bass pipes a little (approximate 15 cents) higher than modern pitch. And be

prepare to make additional tunings during the starter period, until you will know your new musical instrument.

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Here is a chart of pipes tunes beginning on the largest pipe, #1:

F Bb C D Eb E F G A Bb C D Eb E F G A Bb C D,

where Bb is B -flat , and Eb is E-flat.

For the tuning you have to prepare the electronic tuner ( chromatic, not just for guitars), masking tape and

tuning tool (part 8, bag #9).

Open the door and cover all the holes of the tracker bar with masking tape - except the first one, as shown.

Close the door. Turn on your electronic tuner. Make several turns with handle of the main axle, until receiver

opens at least at half or to the end.

If tune is lower than you want to be, push the stopper of the pipe inside with the tuning tool.

If tune is higher, pull the stopper up, catching the head of the tuning screw.

Open the door, open the hole #2, and cover the hole #1. Close the door. Repeat the procedure.

By such a manner one by one tune all the pipes.

Download the music roll. Play the tune.

If you a not satisfy, you probably need to make bass pipes higher. Or lower... You will see...

Good luck with your new classical Street Organ YANKEE DOODLE!

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Part 11. Maintenance.

1. Before starting to play the organ oil all sleeve bearings and ball bearings in the organ. Just add a drop of

regular household oil to any axle. Oil it every season.

2. Avoid holding the organ on direct sun lights for a long time. Organ also does not like too hot temperature or

freezing. Actually, carry it like a regular guitar or other wooden musical instrument over $1000 value...

3. The outer case serves not just for decorative purpose. When you build it try to close all gaps as much as

possible to prevent the system of dust and rain.

4. You may want to build also a cart to move the organ to and from performing. Try to design it with a soft

shock-absorbers. The base of the baby buggy is a good choice.

5. You are lucky: you build your organ by yourself. Who knows better all the system now! If something

unexpected happened, nobody but you will be able to fix all the problems. As an example let me count some

possible problems and solutions.

Trouble shooting.

1. Knocking during the cranking.

The reason is most likely in the lost motion between the shafts and sleeve, or between the sleeve and the

wall it inserted. Find the lost motion and remove it with adding the glue and/or spacers.

2. Luck of the air. The receiver does not open.

Check all connections of brass tubes with rubber or flexible tubing, Check all other places where air can be

passed through. Check door sealant as well. Use sealant, glue or other staff to stop the air leaking.

3. You dropped the organ by accident, one pipe (or door, or pressure box side, or console) is broken.

Make the new one!

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Afterword.

Believe me: it was a big job for me to design a kit of such a thing as Street Organ.

And I know , it a big job for you to assemble it. So we may congratulate each other.

But while you are done, I am continue to make it better and better.

Don't surprise if some of picture are presenting a little differently shaped parts. The YANKEE DOODLE

improves and develops.

I would be have happy to hear from you about good and not so good

experience of your organ building. What you like or dislike? What you suggest

to include or exclude to and from the kit or Manual? It will help me to make

my job better in the future. It also will help to other enthusiasts of building the

street organs.

Please email me to:

zayaruzo@cox.net

Thank you!

Anatoly ZAYA-RUZO