Woven Fabric AnalysisWoven Fabric Analysis(II)(II)

Dr. Jimmy LamDr. Jimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

AgendaAgenda

Twill WeaveTwill Weave Pointed (Waved) TwillPointed (Waved) Twill Herringbone TwillHerringbone Twill Diamond WeaveDiamond Weave Diaper WeaveDiaper Weave

Twill WeaveTwill Weave The twill order of interlacing causes diagonal lines to The twill order of interlacing causes diagonal lines to

be formed in the cloth.be formed in the cloth. The weaves are employed for the purpose of The weaves are employed for the purpose of

ornamentation, to enable a cloth of greater weight, ornamentation, to enable a cloth of greater weight, closer setting, and better draping quality to be formed closer setting, and better draping quality to be formed than plain weave.than plain weave.

Those twill line which point to right from the left Those twill line which point to right from the left bottom are termed as right hand twill or Z twills.bottom are termed as right hand twill or Z twills.

Those point to left from right bottom are termed as left Those point to left from right bottom are termed as left hand twill or S twills.hand twill or S twills.

For a balance twill, the distribution in warp floats and For a balance twill, the distribution in warp floats and weft floats are similar.weft floats are similar.

Twill Weave (2)Twill Weave (2) In simple twill weaves, may consist only one type of twill line, In simple twill weaves, may consist only one type of twill line,

for example 2/2 right hand twill, 3/1 left hand twill etc.for example 2/2 right hand twill, 3/1 left hand twill etc. But for fancy one, both types of twill line may be employed. Eg. But for fancy one, both types of twill line may be employed. Eg.

Herringbone twill, diamond twill. Herringbone twill, diamond twill. The smallest number of threads on which it is possible to The smallest number of threads on which it is possible to

construct a twill is 3.construct a twill is 3. The angle of twill weaves depends on the number of move of The angle of twill weaves depends on the number of move of

the twill lines as well as the ratio of warp and weft in both yarn the twill lines as well as the ratio of warp and weft in both yarn counts and numbers.counts and numbers.

If the twilled fabric with its twill lines have an advancing in If the twilled fabric with its twill lines have an advancing in steps of one hand having a square construction, ie both setts and steps of one hand having a square construction, ie both setts and yarn counts of warp and weft are equal, it gives diagnonals at 45 yarn counts of warp and weft are equal, it gives diagnonals at 45 degree.degree.

Twill Weave (3)Twill Weave (3)

The angle of twill weaves depends on the number of The angle of twill weaves depends on the number of move of the twill lines as well as the ratio of warp move of the twill lines as well as the ratio of warp and weft in both yarn counts and numbers.and weft in both yarn counts and numbers.

The relationship between the angle formed by twill The relationship between the angle formed by twill and the two sets of factors is:and the two sets of factors is:

Tan Q=(Twill vertically move / twill horizontally Tan Q=(Twill vertically move / twill horizontally move) x (warp sett ends in cm /weft sett picks in cm)move) x (warp sett ends in cm /weft sett picks in cm)

Twill angles and stepsTwill angles and steps

Rate of advancement Rate of advancement in stepsin steps

Ratio y/xRatio y/x Angle of twill Angle of twill (degree)(degree)

4 horizontally4 horizontally y/4xy/4x 1414

3 horizontally3 horizontally y/3xy/3x 1818

2 horizontally2 horizontally y/2xy/2x 2727

1 horizontally1 horizontally y/xy/x 4545

2 vertically2 vertically 2y/x2y/x 6363

3 vertically3 vertically 3y/x3y/x 7272

4 vertically4 vertically 4y/x4y/x 7676

Balance and unbalance twillBalance and unbalance twill

Warp face unbalance Z twill

Balance Z twill

Balance and unbalance twill (2) Balance and unbalance twill (2)

Weft face unbalance Z twill

Warp face unbalance S twill

Pointed (Waved Twill)Pointed (Waved Twill)

They are twill weaves with reversal twill line They are twill weaves with reversal twill line direction at suitable intervals either across the direction at suitable intervals either across the width or along the length.width or along the length.

The basic weaves of which are either a simple The basic weaves of which are either a simple weave, 2/2 twill, or a diagonal twill with more weave, 2/2 twill, or a diagonal twill with more than one or serveral different twill lines, e.g. than one or serveral different twill lines, e.g. 2/2/3/1 twill.2/2/3/1 twill.

Point TwillPoint Twill

Vertical Point Twill

Horizontal Point Twill

Point TwillPoint Twill

Herringbone TwillHerringbone Twill

These twill weaves will reversal direction of These twill weaves will reversal direction of twill lines in a different manner as compared to twill lines in a different manner as compared to that of waved twill.that of waved twill.

At the points of reversing take place, lifts of At the points of reversing take place, lifts of warp ends exactly opposite, change from up to warp ends exactly opposite, change from up to down or down to up.down or down to up.

Herringbone Twill (1)Herringbone Twill (1)

Horizontal Herringbone Twill

Herringbone Twill (2)Herringbone Twill (2)

Diamond WeavesDiamond Weaves

Simple diamond weaves are based on twill with Simple diamond weaves are based on twill with pointed twill principles.pointed twill principles.

The constructions are based on principles The constructions are based on principles combining horizontal and vertical pointed twill combining horizontal and vertical pointed twill together, and are symmetrical about their together, and are symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axis.vertical and horizontal axis.

Diamond WeaveDiamond Weave

Diamond Weave (2)Diamond Weave (2)

Pointed Twill with Horizontal and vertical line

Diaper WeavesDiaper Weaves

Diaper weaves are based on further Diaper weaves are based on further development of herringbone twill, extend in development of herringbone twill, extend in both directions, i.e. vertically and horizontally, both directions, i.e. vertically and horizontally, and the whole weave is fall into four quarter by and the whole weave is fall into four quarter by the typical herringbone cut effect.the typical herringbone cut effect.

Diaper WeaveDiaper Weave

Extended Herringbone Weave

Diaper Weave (2)Diaper Weave (2)