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941 Drew $402007 Anderson Valley Monument TreeVineyard Pinot Noir From the northwest"Deep End" of Anderson Valley, this cool,coastal site includes 15 acres of Dijon clonesplanted h 1999. This is Drew's first vintagefrom Monument Tree, and it's a beauty.Think of the forest mushrooms of Mendocino,of the crimson skin of fresh-picked applesfrom an Anderson Valley orchard, of the mossgrowing at the base ofthe apple trees. There'sa surety and exactness to the wine that keepsit firm and refined, even as the textureexpands with air to something more volup-fuous. For anything roasted with chanterelles,whether fish, veal or chicken. (I72 cases) DrewFanily Cellars, Elk, CA

93 | Drew2007 Anderson Va!ley Fog-Eater PinotNoir Fog-Eater is Drew's multivineyardblend from Anderson Valley, highlightingsites influenced by the coastal fog. The '07comes from Balo Vineyard in Philo andVaienti Vineyard, on a 1,300-foot ridgetopsix miles from the ocean. It's a bold pinotnoir, siiting tight within its structure until a

day or two of air reveals the fragrant redberry flavors and dark complexities of thewine-from pomegranate pith to bloodoranges and puer tea. The texture, hard atfirst, turns silken, emphasizing the exoticspice of the tannin. A lasting textural plea-sure, this is suited to rare roast beef. (451cxes) Drew Family Cellars, Elk, CA

92 | Drew $452007 Anderson Valley Savoy VineyardPinot Noir The first release of Drew's winefrom Rich Savoy's vineyard in Philo, thisincludes a tafige of clones, predominantlyPommard and Calera, planted from 1992through 1998. It's a dense wine, with floralscents of rose and intense flavon somewherebetween cherry tomato and cherry. Integratedand substantial, this needs time to grow intoits structure. \(ith some age, its spicy, boldrichness will .match beef ribs. (216 cases)Drew Family Cellar:, Elk, CA

92 lDrew2007 Yorkville Highlands Weir VineyardPinot Noir From two blocks at Bill \feir'svineyard, one planted to a selection said to befrom Domaine de Ia Roman6e-Conti; anotherfrom the Rochioli River Block. It's an austerepinot in the 2OO7 vintage, extremely tight atfirst, with a smolqr, steely edge to the tannin.The fruit fills out the edges with air, expand-ing to scents of wild raspberry and conifer

forest. Give this several years in the cellar,then serve with roast quail. (206 cases) DrewFamily Cellars, Elk, CA

921 Fulcrum $522OO7 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Made byDavid Rossi from the Hein Family andHayley vineyards, this is a floral pinot withgracious fruit intensity. It feels fat in themiddle, as some red-fruited wines from thePommard clone tend to. The oceanic aciditygives the strawberry flavor an edge. Deli-cious with a grilled salmon steak. (100cases) Fulmrm\Yina, San Francisco, CA

gt lRntnitt Farms $+z2007 Mendocino County ComptcheRidge Vineyard Pinot Noir This grows on aremote two acres of dry-farmed vines in themidst of a redwood forest near the Hum-boldt County border, about ten miles fromthe Pacific. The sparse yields on the vinesgave a savory vine in 2OO7 , as rooty as sarsa-parilla with a sweeter edge of raspberry tobalance it. The flavors come in layers, lastingwith a sense of delicacy. It's a clean pinotnoir to serve with duck confit and whitebears. Anthill Farms Vinay, Huzld;burg, CA

go lRnthitt Farms $s32007 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir (BestBuy) There's substantial fruit weight to thispinot, with flavors of fresh cranberries androasted tomatoes. It's smoky, with intrigu-ing complexity in the finish. Serve it withthe braised dark meat of chicken. AnthillF ams lVinay, Heald; burg, C A

90 lAnthill Farms $422007 Sonoma Coast Peters VineyardPinot Noir From a vineyard in Sebastopol,at the edge of the Petaluma Gap, this pinotnoir has a cool, coastal influence in its long,transparent flavors of cherry skin and sea-weed-scented tannins. The texture is fulland rich, the fruit a little sweet in the end.For thinly sliced kobe beef. Antbill FarmsVinery, Heald;burg, CA

90 | Husch $82005 Anderson Valley Knoll Pinot NoirRelatively mature for a current release, thiswine has gentle softness to its texture, evenas there's still a hint of youthfully malicacidity, an edge of apple skin and gunflint.It's a cool, savory pinot to serve with braisedbeef. H. A. Oswald. Family, Phik, CA

88lAqua Pumpkin $162007 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir(Best Buy) There's a saline acidity to bal-ance the ripe strawberry and cola flavors inthis gentle vrine. Match its earthy tanninswith grilled pork ribs. (1,517 cases) AqaaPumpkinVinay, Santa Maria, CA

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881 Rodney Strong $222007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir(Best Buy) Oak surrounds the gentle redfruit of this wine with warm cinnamon andtoasty, black walnut flavors. Underneath.the fruit is tart and suited to braised rabbit.Rodnq Strong Vinqard.s, Healdsburg, C A

84 | Bogle $132006 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir(Best Buy) The red raspberry jam flavors ofthis wine are fading into caramel andautumn leaves. Fully mature and ready forroast beef. BogleVineyards, Clarksbarg, CA

Syrah92 lVerge $402006 Dry Creek Valley Syrah A powerfuIsyrah with dark flavors of cherries andpomegranate, this wine ends on crushedwhite pepper spice. The texture is dense,yielding scents of violets with air. Givethis several years in the cellar, then decantit for a rib eye. (350 cases) Verge \Vine Cel-lars, Healdsbarg, CA

gt lRed Car $zo2007 Sonoma Coast Box Car Syrah (BestBuy) Reduced at first, this needs a day ofairfor the tarry extract to release a sleek, floral

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WINE & SPIRITS JUNE 2OO9