Where do I Start - SWSCC · • Design the BEST – Product • What is the best Polymer? • Design the Formulation and Production Process ... Special Features-Needs of Curly Hair

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© ASI 2019

Presented by Joseph Dallal, L.C., M.Sc.Sr. Mgr. Ashland Specialty Ingredients Technical Sales and Innovation

For SWSCC August 21, 2019

Dallas, Tx

Where Do I Start?

How Do I Know I Finished?

210-380-1326, [email protected]

Exercise

• Probie/Newbie/Freshman

• Old Lab Book

• 5 yr. veteran

• Remake old formula

• Probie asks questions

• Learns to fill out lab notebook

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© ASI 2019 [email protected]

What We’ll Cover

• What is a Cosmetic Chemist

• Digesting a Project Profile

• Understand the Substrate, End User,

the Mode of Application

• Link to a Styling Technique and Tools

• Characterize the Innovation Strategy

How to Start a Project, Evaluate Stability

and Performance, and Scale-Up Tests

3© ASI 2019 [email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

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Development ChemistsWho are they; What do they do?

• Develop and Use Recipes/Processes/Specs

• Techniques and Technology

• Imagination, Insight, True Science

• Ingredients

• Processing

• Performance

• Scientific Method

• Satisfying Consumer Needs


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Ingredients

& Processing

but Creativity ….


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Responsibilities

• Satisfy Marketing Profile

• Performance for the Consumer

• Scale-Up

• Manufacturing

• Performance, Shelf Life, Preservation

• Specs, QC, QA

• Creativity

• Teamwork

• Leadership© ASI 2019 [email protected]

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Pop Quiz – 5 Min Limit

• Design the BEST

– Product

• What is the best Polymer?

• Design the Formulation and Production Process

• Specs

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The Profile The Brief

• What SKU Category

• Who Will Use It

• How When and Why will they Apply It

• What Kind of Hair

• What Kind of Style

• What Kind of Tools and Technique

• How will it be Applied???? Package??

• How Much will it Cost?8


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Digesting the Profile

• What do you want to CREATE?

• WHO will Use it?

• How will they USE it?

• What do they want it to DO?

• How will they MEASURE it?

• How will YOU Measure it?

• What will confirm that YOU were

Successful?


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Different Hair or Different Styles?

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Product Development Stages

• Ideation/Discovery/Research/Target

– Marketing Profile

– Interpretation or Creation

• Formulation/Processing/Implementation

– Develop and Test or Validate

– Follow Through, Start to Finish

• Scale-Up Design and Proof

– 1Kg, 3Kg, Pilot, Small and Final Production

– Run Stability and Performance Tests


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How do you START?

How do you Choose?

• Quo Vadis?

• WIIFM ?

Why

are we

here?


InnovationSatisfy End Users

$$Billions

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To Start: Understand

• Substrate

• Consumer Using your Product

• Techniques to be Used by Consumer

• Marketing Profile

• Available Technologies

• Signals?????

– What will the Consumer be Looking for?

– How will You know if you are Successful?


What do you make for These

Consumers?

Various styles and techniques.

More important than who is

wearing them.

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BOOKCOMP, Inc.— Wayne State University Press / Page 277 / Classification

of Human Hair / Human Biology 79-3 / Journal roland de la mettrie et al.

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Learn about the Substrate

Moisture is Critical


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PVP K-90


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Disulfide Bonds

Lanthionine Bridge

HCCHCH2CH2CO H3N(CH2)4CH

O COC O

NH HN

C CO

HC CH2

O

CHH2C

NH HN

S S

C CO O

HC CH2 CHH2CS-O -3

-O3-S

NH HN

C CO O

HC CHCH2 H2CS

NH HN

Salt

Linkage

Hydrogen Bonds

Cysteic Acid

What Holds the Hair Together?


Peptide

Bond

Anionic

Sites

Cationic

Sites

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Pre-Detangled Dry Hair

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Stress: Damage in Action


Abrasion

Dynamic

bending

Impacting and

Compression

Extension

Friction

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Stereomicroscope

Primary split

Secondary split

Tertiary split

J. Alan Swift, Fundamentals of Human Hair

Science, Cosmetic Science Monograph, Number

One, Micelle Press

Electron

microscope

Photo by Ray Rigoletto

Combing-betterquality.avi

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Surface of Hair

SEM x 900: normal Cuticle SEM x 225: Cortex exposed,

resultant split-end© ASI 2019 [email protected]

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Need Surface Modification?

Alan Swift

Alkali

Then H2O

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Dr. Alan Swift

Dr. Jachowicz

& J. Dallal MSc.

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Special Features-Needs of Curly Hair

Wide Axis vs Narrow Axis Bend and Twist

Mechanical Fracture at Bend Mechanical Fracture at Bend

200x

800x150x

200x

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Who is your Target?

Why do they

Want your Product?

How will they Use it?

What do they Expect?

Thermal Treatment

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Exocuticle Broken Off

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© ASI 2019

[email protected]

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Cross-Sectional View of Hair +/-

Thermal Exposure 15 sec

Formulation Innovation Strategy

• Texture

• Application

• Wet Effects

• Drying Down Effects

• Immediate and Long Term After Dry

Effects

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Divide Product Development

Into 3

Concepts or Guiding Categories

In the Package; Dispensing

• Appearance, Texture, Delivery Mechanism,

Spreadability, Stability, PET

On the Hair: Function

• Wet-Hold, Tack or Grab, Dry Effects,

Tackiness, Elasticity, Flexibility, Stiffness,

Smoothness, HHCR, Frizz, Static, next day

Scale-Up, Stability, Packaging

#1 What’s it

LOOK like?

#2 What’s it

Do?


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Interactions in FormulationsTextures

N+ SO4-

ppt ?


What’s in

Here?

Polyanion PolycationPEC

+- - - - - - -+ ++

Macromolecules,

1997, 30, 7803

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Tools to Create Styles(What’s in a name?)

Marketing Terms translate to Formulas

• Liquids, lotions, glazes, gels, spray

gels (simple liquids), salt sprays

• Spray gels w/ gel, shaping gels

• Working sprays, curl activators

• Shaping sprays, finishing sprays

• Shine and hold, crème gels

• Pomades/Ringing Gels/Pastes/ Putties

- anhydrous and emulsions

• A rose is a rose is a ... but is it?

Textures


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Manipulative TechniquesOpportunities

• Wet Sets, Sculpting, Finger waves

• Wet look, Root Lift, Scrunching

• Curling Iron/Marcel/Hot iron/Flat/Ceramic

• Blow drying/diffuser/hot lamps

• curly look/curl activator

• Back Combing/ratting/teasing

• Braiding, pressing, wrapping, polishing


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0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

Co

mb

ing

Fo

rce

[G

]

0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350

Distance [% of initial]

Damaged Hair after deep conditioner

Window 1 Window 2

Streaked Hair has Differential

Combing: Equalize It


SRCA

Jachowicz

Structure/Property/Function

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C

CH2H2C

H2CN

CH CH2

O

CH CH2

O

C

CH3

O

x y

PVP/VA

H2C

H2C CH2

CN O

CHCH2 CH2 C

C O

O

CH2

CH2

N

H3C CH3

CH3

x

y

COPOLYMER series

H2C

H2C CH2

CN

O

CHCH2 CH2 C

C O

O

CH2

CH2

CH3

N+

CH3H3C

C2H5

x

y

OSO3C2H5-

z

GAFQUAT ® quaternary copolymers


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y

z

CH3

N

CH2

CH2

O

OC

CCH2CH2 CH

ON

C

CH2H2C

H2C

H2C CH2

CH2 CH

ON

C

CH2H2C

H2C

CH3

CH3

X

GAFFIX ® VC-713N

C H C H 2

O

C H 2 C

C H 3

C H 2

C O

N H

C H 2

C H 2

C H 2

NC H 3C H 3

N O

C H

C H

3

C H2 C

3

C O

NH

(C H )2 3

N

H C C H3

CH 2

H C2 C O

H C2 C H 2

X

Y

CH

N


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CH2 C

CH3

CH3

HC CH

C C OO

N

CH2 C

CH3

CH3

HC CH

C C OO

N

CH2 C

CH3

CH3

HC CH

C C OO

OR OH

CHH3C

CH2

O

CHH3C

CH2

O

(CH2)2

OCH3

(CH2)3

N

H3C CH3

x y

z

R=-H, - CH2 CH3

m

n

NonionicAmine

Pendant

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C

CHCH

OCH3

CHCH2

OC

OO

x

GANTREZ ® AN-119, AN-139, AN-149, AN-169

C

CHCH

OCH3

CHCH2

HO

O C O

OCH2CH3

Omnirez® 2000

x

OCH3

C

O

O

O

C

OCH3

H3CO

OCH3

Stabileze® 06, QM

QMQMQM

C OO

C

O

C O

OCO

C OO

CO


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CH2 CH

O

C

CH3

CH CH

C C

OH

O O

OC4H9

CH2 CH

C

O

CH3

H3CCH3O

x y

z

ADVANTAGE® Plus

O

N C

C12H25

(CH2)3

O

NH N+

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

p-TsO

*H2O

H2C CH2

CN

CH CH2 CH2CH

HC

HC CH

CHC

CH

H2C O

x y

POLECTRON ® 430


Cause and Effect

• Moieties

• Ratios

• Molecular Weight

• Molecular Weight Distribution

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41.0x10

51.0x10

61.0x10

6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 11.0

Mol

ar M

ass

(g/m

ol)

Volume (mL)

Molar Mass vs. Volume 2DC16C01


How do you Select?

How do you Choose?

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‘Wet’ Set Swatches


% wt/wt vs Normal use levels vs $/use

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Standardized Hair Tresses

Critical to evaluating styling

products on hair tresses

1 Same width

2 Same length

3 Same # hair, or weight

4 Same kind of hair, i.e.,

…diameter and color or

…condition

These are neither.


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Grams product per square centimeter of hair

Lotion, Gel, or Spray Application


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Hair Characteristics


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© ASI 2019

[email protected]

Stiffness, Crunch, Flexibility

Springiness© ASI 2019 [email protected]

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Flaking and Residue

On Hair

On Comb


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Curl Memory

Manageability© ASI 2019 [email protected]

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Static Inhibits Control


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ShineEvaluate visually how shiny the tress is.

10.Very, very shiny9.Very shiny8.Shiny7.Shine to moderate shine6.Moderate shine5.Average shine4.Slight sheen3.Dull2.Very dull1.Very, very dull

StiffnessCompress curl between fingers and evaluate how stiff the curl is.

10.Very, very stiff9.Very stiff8.Stiff7.Stiff to moderately stiff6.Moderately stiff5.Slightly soft4.Moderately soft3.Soft2.Very soft1.Very, very soft (like natural hair)

Curl SnapHold the top of the tress and place your fingers in the center of the curl and gently pull to full extension, then release.

10.Excellent springback (like a rubber band)9.Very good springback8.Good springback7.Moderate to good springback6.Moderate springback5.Fair springback4.Fair to poor springback3.Poor springback2.Very poor springback1.No springback (completely falls out)

Calibrate and Validate

Your Panel


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Hair Characteristics

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Shine Stiffness Curl Snap Comb Drag Comb Residue Hair Residue Manageablility Static


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© ASI 2019

[email protected]

Stiffness Ratio

Flexibility


DHSA

Jachowicz

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© ASI 2019 [email protected] of typical measurement by DHSA

➢F1- maximum force in the 1st deformation

➢F10 /F1 - ratio of maximum forces in the 10th

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How do I know if I Finished?

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Personal Evaluation

• Make Your Own Assessment

• Understand the Scores and

Assessments of Others: Panel Tests

• Did it meet all the Profile requirements?


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Hyg

rom

ete

r

%R

H


Significantly

Important

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Removability from Hair


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Visualizing Deposit

Employs

Negatively

Charged

dye to

show

where the

cationic

molecules

remain


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-

-

-

-

4 Alternating Formulas, 800F, 90% RH

Repeating, 1-2-3-4 then 1-2-3-4; 0.35g gel/2g hair

High Humidity Curl Retention


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HHCR of Typical Styling Polymers


0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

0 50 100 150 200 250

Time (min)

Hig

h H

um

idit

y C

url

Rete

nti

on

(%

)

1

2

3

4

5

6

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Clarity on Glass ~Hair?

AB


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Anti-Breakage Method

Flat iron regimen Comb tresses

Quantify breakage

Differential Scanning Calorimetry

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132.12°C

129.57°C

139.84°C

123.25°C

116.91°C

-1.1

-1.0

-0.9

-0.8

-0.7

-0.6

-0.5

No

nre

v H

eat F

low

(W

/g)

60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200

Temperature (°C)

VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer / HEC + 232C flat iron––––––– Polyquaternium-55 / HEC + 232C flat iron––––––– control - no heat––––––– HEC +232 C flat iron––––––– 232 C flatiron– – – –

Exo Up Universal V4.4A TA Instruments

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Webbing/Flaking


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Hold Vs Flakes


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What Did YOU Leave

Behind ?

Polymer

Frag/Sol/Add/Rheo

Water and

Other

Volatiles

Frag/Sol/Add/Rheo

Polymer


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Shine


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Line Intensity Measurements Luster

Evaluation

Apparatus

Digital

Camera

Linear

PolarizersTop of

Hair

Tress

Bottom of

Hair Tress


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Shine Evaluation


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Plus Baffling and Side Scrape

Then Scale-Up

Order of Addition (A to B or?)

pH

Mixing speed vs Shear

Ionic character

Molecular Weight


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Test Processing

Order of Addition1. Add the Polymer/neutralizer premix solution to

the acidic gelling agent slurry.

2. Partially neutralize the gel before adding the polymer. Then complete the neutralization (i.e., add the neutralizer to the polymer solution prior to combining).

3. Neutralize/thicken the gel before adding the polymer powder or solution.

4. Add the polymer to the un-neutralized

gelling agent.© ASI 2019 [email protected]

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Foam Textures and Looks


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Stability Records

© ASI 2019

[email protected]

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Finalize

• Test

• Modify, Adjust, Retest

• Run Stability and Performance (vs Aging)

• Scale-up and Run Stability, Performance

• Test Errors and Limits of Specs (How to Set?)

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Forced Error Analysis

• How robust is the formula?

• Can you identify an Error Visually?

• Salt Curve is an Obvious for Shampoos

• What are the limitations of the Production

Environment?

– Weighed in, Weight by Difference, Pumped

in, Metered in?

– What If?

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Controls

• Temperature

• Distance/weight

• Benchmarks

• Bracketing

• Substrate

• Swatch Consistency

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Starting a ProjectEvaluation of Profile: First

• What kind of package and dispenser will deliver the product to the consumer?

• How much product they will use in one application?

• Will they apply the product to wet or dry hair

• How they will disperse the product onto or

throughout the hair or parts of the head of hair?

• How they will dry it?

• What will the hair look like after it is done?

• How long does it need to last (maintain the desired

look), either FIXed in place or FREE flowing?

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Strategies

• Choose a Matrix to Deliver the Actives

– Commensurate to the Package, HairStyle and

Styling Technique

• Choose the Active Polymer and Modifiers to

Deliver

– Feel Characteristics

– Holding Power

• Adjust Levels to Optimize, Test Performance on

Hair

• Run Scale-Up Studies, Stability, Efficacy

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It’s the Formula that Performs

• It’s a Concert of ACTION

• Not an Individual Ingredient

• Not the Package

• It’s What YOU Created…

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Make and Evaluate

• Remember Mistakes as well as

Successes

• Everything is GOOD Eventually

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References

• Harry’s Cosmeticology (Marty Reiger)

• Hair and Hair Care (Dale Johnson)

• Chemical and Physical Behavior of Hair

(Clarence Robbins)

• Maison G. De Navarre

• Spray, C&T, HAPPI, etc

• American Salon, PBA, Modern Salon

• BTC.com, etc. etc. etc. YouTubes

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Thank You to my Mentors

and Influencers

Develop relationships with multi-mentors

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© ASI 2019

Thank You

▪ Enjoy Designing, Creating,

Making, Testing, and Improving

▪ Nurture Several Mentors

▪ Raise the Bar Pay it Forward

Joseph A. Dallal, L.C., M.Sc. [email protected] 210-380-1326

What Would you

make for me?

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disclaimer

The information contained in this presentation and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and

risk after they have performed necessary technical investigations, tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. This material is for informational purposes only and

describes the scientific support for the use of the products described herein as an ingredient in cosmetic products intended to enhance appearance and other cosmetic

benefits or to enhance performance of an end product. Certain end uses of these products may be regulated pursuant to rules governing medical devices or other

regulations governing drug uses. It is the purchaser’s responsibility to determine the applicability of such regulations to its products. While the information

herein is believed to be reliable, we do not guarantee its accuracy and a purchaser must make its own determination of a product’s suitability for purchaser’s use, for the

protection of the environment, and for the health and safety of its employees and the purchasers of its products.

Neither Ashland nor its affiliates shall be responsible for the use of this information, or of any product, method, formulation, or apparatus described in this brochure. Nothing

herein waives any of Ashland’s or its affiliates’ conditions of sale, and no statement, information and data is to be taken as a guarantee, an express warranty, or an implied

warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which Ashland and its affiliates assume legal responsibility. We also

make no warranty against infringement of any patents by reason of purchaser’s use of any information, product, method or apparatus described in this presentation.

The testing information (the “Testing Information”) has been gratuitously provided by Ashland. The Testing Information is based on many factors beyond Ashland’s control,

including but not limited to, the conditions prevailing when the testing was conducted, and in some cases, is based on data generated with development samples of the

Active Ingredient. Although it is intended to be accurate, ASHLAND DISCLAIMS ANY AND ALL LIABILITY, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED. The Testing Information is

confidential or proprietary to Ashland, and may not, except as provided below, be disclosed to any third party. You may not make commercial use of the Testing Information,

or make claims with respect to your products based the Testing Information, without the written agreement with Ashland covering such use.

® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries

™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries

* Trademark owned by a third party

© 2019, Ashland

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mailto:[email protected]

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Documents

Where do I Start - SWSCC · • Design the BEST – Product • What is the best Polymer? • Design the Formulation and Production Process ... Special Features-Needs of Curly Hair