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  • We do!How wedded are the royals to ethical nosh?

    spring 2011

    issue 31

    FreemagazineTop of the pop-upsFruit carts roll out in London

    Food growing universities ❋ Hot cross buns ❋ Turn on to tap

    London's magazine for ethical eating

  • CALLING

    THE EMPIR

    E

    London Calling the empire at home and overseas. This is Camden Town and at long last we are free to say words of our own. Stop drinking rubbish and begin drinking quality craft beer from your own towns brewery, Camden Town Brewery. Keep up to date with what’s going on at the brewery, and with our latest beer news on offer by signing up on the website or by getting in touchwww.camdentownbrewery.com

    Camden Town Brewery55-59 Wilkin Street MewsLondonNW5 3NN

    Telephone: 020 7485 1671

    [email protected]

    19_CAMDEN AD 270 x 210_6.indd 1 11/01/2011 09:32

  • CALLING

    THE EMPIR

    E

    London Calling the empire at home and overseas. This is Camden Town and at long last we are free to say words of our own. Stop drinking rubbish and begin drinking quality craft beer from your own towns brewery, Camden Town Brewery. Keep up to date with what’s going on at the brewery, and with our latest beer news on offer by signing up on the website or by getting in touchwww.camdentownbrewery.com

    Camden Town Brewery55-59 Wilkin Street MewsLondonNW5 3NN

    Telephone: 020 7485 1671

    [email protected]

    19_CAMDEN AD 270 x 210_6.indd 1 11/01/2011 09:32

    Tuck in!4 Bulletin6 Around Town7 Shop WindowEl'sKitchen

    8 To Market QueensPark8 What’s in season11FeatureFruitcarts12Feature RoyalWarrantholders14 Local to LondonRonnyLiu15On the Menu Popupprinciples?16 Taste of LondonHotcrossbuns17 Star StockistMyCoffeeStop19Capital Growth19Growing Calendar20Reader’s KitchenElizaFlanagan

    21 London Food LinkCaféCrema22What’s on

    TheJellied Eel isaquarterlymagazinepublishedbyLondonFoodLinkandBIGMedia.Ithasacirculationof20,000andisdistributedtoallLondonFoodLinkmembers,aswellasfoodretailers,restaurantsandentertainmentvenues.Disclaimer:inclusionofinformationintheJellied EeldoesnotimplytheproductorserviceisendorsedbyLondonFoodLinkorSustain.Wedonotcondonetheconsumptionofjelliedeels,asmanyeelstocksarecurrentlyverylow.

    EditorBenReynoldsDeputyEditorKellyParsonsBIGMediaDirectorJamieFordArtdirectionanddesignBeckyJoyntContributorsMattAtkinson,MichaelDees,AnnaFenton,AnnaFrancis,ClareHill,BenjaminHunt,GeorgieKnight,T[email protected]sustainweb.orgor02078371228www.londonfoo[email protected]sus[email protected]thejelliedeel.orgorphone07900496979

    PrintedbyStonesthePrinters

    AstheendofLentdrawsnear,andthetimeforritualgorgingcomesuponuswithEaster,sparea

    thoughtforthelessthanchocolateyhotcrossbun.Although,sadly,nowwidelyavailableallyearround(yes,Idothinkbakedgoodsshouldbeaddedtoallseasonalitycalendars!),thehotcrossbun,forthoseofuswhocanremember,wasoncelinkedwithEaster(thattherebeingacrossonthetop,guv’nor)!Onp16youcanreadaboutwhyoneLondonpubhassuchastronghistorywiththeaforementionedbun.Forthoseofyoualittlesloweroff

    thestartingblockswithpickingupacopyofthisissueoftheJellied Eel,it’sprobablyasgoodassummerbynow.Nodoubtyou’llbeoverwhelmedbyaplethoraofchoicesofhotnewpop-upcafestogoto,orrather,shouldIsayeventcaterers!WhileI’mmoreexcitedthanmostwhenaderelictshopgetsturnedoverforaweekortwointosomenewconceptindining(seep15)–Ithinkthetermisusedalittleliberallywhenappliedasanadd-ontoevents.Isthisyear’sGlastonburyfestivalgoingtoberebrandedastheUKslargestpop-uptown?Moreconcerningare“pop-up”

    principles.Nowyouseethem,nowyoudon’t.SadlyitseemsrathertoomanyofLondon’srestaurants(ashocking18percentof'local'claimsareundoubtedlyfalsebutnotjustinrestaurants)lietocustomers,overstatingtheethicaloriginsofthefoodtheyserve.CheckoutourOnTheMenureportatwww.thejelliedeel.orgformoredetails.But,fortunatelyforLondoners,onethingthatdoesseemtobeimprovingisthefishonoffer.FollowingthedrumbeatingofHughandJamie,thelikesofGreenpeaceandtheSustainableFishCitycampaignhavebeenmakinghugeleapswithsupplierslikePrinces,catererslikeSodexo,andrestaurantsincluding

    Carlucciosbanning'redlist'fish.WitheventheDisneystoresigninguptoSustainableFishCity(well,actually,Vacherinwhodothecateringinoneoftheirbuildings),itwouldseemthisissueisonaroll(orevenwave!).Seewww.sustainablefishcity.netforwhatyoucandonexttohelpouroceans.Asyoucanseebytheicononthe

    bulletinpages–we’reontwitter.TheproblemisI’mnotsurethatI’mfollowingtherightpeople!I’mkeentotellyouaboutallthewonderfulethicalfoodgoingsonaroundtown,soletmeknowifyou’reontwittersoIcanstartfollowingyou.Bythetimethenextissuecomes

    out,we’llbekickingoffwhatwehopewillbeahugebeecampaign(that’snotacampaignforbiggerbees!-it’sabigcampaigntohelpsupportbee-friendlybehaviour)withsomeveryhigh-profilepartners.We’realsogoingtobelookingintothefoodonofferatthecapital’stoptouristattractions.Letusknowifyou’vehadanyhideousorpleasantlysurprisingexperiencesatLondon’slandmarks.Ohandtheroyalwedding.What

    royalwedding?I’vebeentoobusyworryingaboutmyownwedding.Comeon,crackopenthatBabycham…

    BenEditor

    Say hello to theJellied Eel

    Photo: Pamela Troni

  • Grow your own omeletteThisisn’tsomebizarrescienceexperiment,ratherachanceforschoolstowinawonderful,chicken-friendlyprizebyenteringahome-madeomeletteintoacompetition.Therulesarethattheomelettewillhavetostartwitheggsfromtheschool’shensandcanincludeanything-aslongasithasbeengrownbytheschoolandisinseasonandreadytoharvestinMay.However,saltandpepperisallowed!ThefinalomeletteswillbejudgedattheRealFoodFestivalon5May.www.schoolfoodmatters.

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    Real Food Book

    We have two copies of the Real Food F

    estival’s wonderful new book to be wo

    n. The

    Real Food Book was launched at the

    start of April and features loads of grea

    t recipes

    from producers and people linked with

    the events the festival organisers run.

    To enter

    this prize draw, please send in a pictur

    e of yourself reading the Jellied Eel in o

    ne of our

    stockists – see www.sustainweb.org/j

    elliedeel/stockists. If they’ve run out le

    t us (and

    the shop) know. Send your entries by t

    he end of May to [email protected]

    web.org

    BulletinAspreadofthelatestsustaina

    blefoodnews

    Aerial gardeningAnewbookchartingoneLondoner'sattemptstotransformherselfintoanaerial,ediblegardenerisoutinJune.‘MyGarden,theCityandMe:RooftopAdventuresintheWildsofLondon’,byHelenBabbsisapersonalportraitofarooftopgardenandofacity.Findoutmoreatwww.aerialediblegardening.co.ukandreadHelen’sarticleaboutherexperiencesatwww.thejelliedeel.org.

    Rating the coffee chains According to the latest investigation by Ethical Consumer magazine, the next best place to buy your coffee, if there's no independent coffee shop nearby, is AMT, which uses 100 per cent Fairtrade coffee and 100 per cent organic milk, making it streets ahead of the other chains. For more information visit www.ethicalconsumer.org.

    4 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    Knead to Know: the Real Bread starterKnead to KnowfromtheRealBreadCampaignistheonlybookdedicatedtohelpingyousucceedinbringingRealBreadbacktotheheartofyourlocalcommunity.Whetherbakingathomeonceamonthforalocalproducers’market,joiningtogetherwithneighbourstosetupaCommunitySupportedBakery,orinatraditionalhighstreetbakery,thispracticalguidewillinformandinspirebothstart-upandexistingbakers.This140pagehandbookcontainsnotonlycornerstonerecipes,butalsoinformationonbusinessmodels,legislation,moneymatters,equipment,ingredients,techniques,marketing,mediarelations,courses,suppliers,andmuchmore.KneadtoKnowisavailableasalimitededitionbookorPDFdownloadfromwww.realbreadcampaign.org

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    Tap water springs in LondonWe’reveryluckytoliveinacountrywherewehavedrinkingwateravailableontap.Butwithdrinkingfountainsinshortsupplyit’snotalwayseasytogetholdoffreeh2owhenoutandabout.NowTapwater–anorganisationthatencouragespeopletochoosetapwateroveritsbottledcounterpart–issigningupcafés,shopsandpubstoberefillingstations,whereanyonecanpopinwithare-useablecontainerandfillupwithfreetapwater.Over500stationscanbeidentifiedbyatapwaterrefillingstickerinthewindow,andTapwaterhasalsodevelopedamapwhichshowsalltheparticipatingbusinessesonit,andanappforyoursmartphone.www.tapwater.org

    The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 5

    Camden Town BreweryItisalmostoneyearsinceJasperCuppaidgeestablishedtheCamdenTownBrewery.Today,hehasfourcorebeers:CamdenHellsLager,CamdenPaleAle,CamdenWheatBeerandCamdenBitter,andhiseco-friendlybusinessnowsuppliestoover50barsandpubsinLondon.TheBritishbitteriskepttraditional,soeverythinginthebeerisnative.www.camdentownbrewery.com

    Roots and WingsFollowingonfromtheirfirstforayswithjamsandbiscuits,thisneworganiccompanyisnowlaunchingarangeofchocolateleaves.Thesecomeinmilkchocolate(witharomaticspanishorangeoil),bittersweetdarkchocolate,andpeppermintdarkchocolate.Ifyou'reinterestedinfindingsomeofthesegoodies(evenafterEasterindulgences),theyareavailableinarangeofLondonindependentsorthroughitsonlineshop.Checkonlinefordistribution.www.rootsandwingsorganic.com

    Jamie does...independentsJamieOliverhasdevelopedanewfoodrangeforindependentfoodstores.Theproducts,whichincludejams,dressings,condimentsandbiscuits,aremadebyartisanproducerslikeYorkshire'sSteenbergsOrganicherbsandspices,organicchocolatiersCocoaLocofromWestSussex,andCumbriapudding-makersCartmel,andwillbe

    officiallylaunchedatthisyear'sRealFoodFestivalinMay.It'searlydays,butLondonstockistsalreadyonboardincludeUnionFoodMarketinFulham.www.jamieoliver.com

    Shoppingbasket

    Farm AcademyFarmers’ markets may be coming to a school near you, as part of the Farm Academy project. London schools have the opportunity to get involved in food and farming, as well as hosting their own markets. The schools will first go on residential visits to organic farms where they will take part in a variety of farming activities. On returning to school they will be able to set up school farmers markets, at which they can sell their own school-grown produce. The markets will also support small, local producers, as well as enabling members of the school and wider community to buy local, fresh and seasonal produce and meet the farmers. [email protected]

    Aspreadofthelatestsustainablefood

    news Followuso

    nTwitter

    twitter.com/

    thejelliedeel1

  • around townGet into what’s happening in your area

    From the Ground up Kt3 From the Ground Up, the fortnightly organic fruit and veg box scheme is celebrating its one year anniversary. Based in Kingston-upon-Thames it is marking the occasion by running a series of speaker events. Founded in March 2010 by members of the Transition Town Kingston Food Group, the group aims to make fresh organic food more affordable and available to the community. All fresh food is bought from certified organic suppliers, produce is sold at or near wholesale prices and is seasonal and ‘local when possible’, and preference is given to UK suppliers. Additional offerings include organic bread from one of London’s few organic bakeries, plus jams, cheese and dry goods from Suma.

    www.ttkingston.org/groups-and-projects/ground-up/

    ramble your way to dinner w1The Ethical Eats ‘Restaurant Ramble’ 2011 is a foodie crawl to three veggie restaurants, equalling one spectacular dinner. Stops will inclue veggie institution Mildreds, and two other venues to be revealed nearer the time. There will be two sittings of 12 people during the course of the evening, so 24 in total, and Ethical Eats is asking veggies who come along to bring a meat-eater with them so they can experience the great meat-free dining options available in London. The date is likely to be 26 May and tickets, at around £40 each, will go on sale in the next few weeks. Go to www.ethicaleats.org for more details or email [email protected]

    www.ethicaleats.org

    6 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    Get your hands dirty nw1, w12, w6, n16, se15Ever fancied learning from the pros how to turn your unloved patch into an urban paradise? Capital Growth has teamed up with a number of local organisations to extend the training it ran successfully over the last year in Regents Park. As well as the Regents Park (NW1) site, training will also be run in: West London, at Hammersmith Community Gardens Association Phoneix Farm W12 & Ravenscourt Park Greenhouses W6; East London, at Growing Communities, Allen Gardens, N16; and South London, at The London Wildlife Trust - Centre for Wildlife Gardening in Peckham SE15. Discounts available for London Food Link members.

    www.capitalgrowth.org/training

  • The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 7

    wine oF the times se1Borough Market will be hosting the UK’s first Natural Wine Fair on Sunday 15 May. Natural wines are made with little or no sulphur and no pesticides – the aim being to produce wine in a way that doesn’t abuse the soil or the environment. The fair is the highlight of Natural Wine Fortnight, from 9-22 May, and will bring together producers from all over Europe, as well as a small selection from the New World. It will feature wine tasting classes, and a chance to sample a variety of wines and meet the producers.

    www.thenaturalwinefair.com

    into the wild wd6Chris Herald started Wild Forest Foods on a half-acre patch of rented land near Mill Hill in North West London, and since 2007 has been supplying small quantities of vegetable and salad crops to local restaurants and shops in the capital. Faced with increasing demand, Chris has now moved to a new, larger site near Borehamwood, a couple of miles outside the M25. Besides the usual European crops he plans to grow Japanese, Thai and other oriental produce to supply the Far East communities and restaurants in London.

    www.wildforestfoods.co.uk

    windowSHOp

    say Goodbye to suspect meats se1A food revolution is underway: greasy sausages and dubious burgers are being replaced by cheap, delicious and fresh alternatives. The Real Food Festival team is bringing together a new generation of street vendors to Southbank Centre for the first Real Street Food Festival. Taking place over the weekend of the Royal Wedding (29 April), visitors will be able to taste a wide variety of foods from specially selected vendors. The Royal Wedding will be shown on a big screen too, so there’s no excuse not to head along. Their regular market at the Southbank centre is also now going weekly, so no excuses for not making it part of your regular shop. And the main festival at Olympia is on 5th – 8th May. Be there!

    www.realfoodfestival.co.uk

    ClareHilldiscoversathrivinglocalgrocerystorethat’sbuckingallthetrends.ThehighstreetinLadywellisunremarkableandshort–littlemorethanacoupleofhairdressers,offlicencesandafewkebabshops.Soacornerstorepaintedtoptotoeinburgundy,withcratesoffruitandvegetablesoutthefront,sticksoutliketheproverbial.Alsonoticeableisthestreamofcustomerscominginandoutoftheshop–unusualforSundaymid-morninginasuburbanpocketofsoutheastLondon.El’sKitchenisrunbyEleanorThompson,along-term

    Ladywelllocal,whoopenedtheshopsimplybecauseshe“justgotfrustratedwithnotbeingabletobuydecentfood.”Theshopisadelicatesseninthetruesenseoftheword,withbowlsofself-serveolives,nearly30kindsofcheese(muchofitBritish),salamis,homemadedips,freshbread,andasmallselectionofcakesandpastries.There’sanencyclopaedicrangeoflarderingredients,somequiteniche,likeShiptonMillchestnutflourandjarsofasparaguspâté.Butyoucanalsopickupessentialslikemilk,eggsandbutter.Oh,andwine.Allcrammedintoaspacethesizeofanaveragelivingroom.Eleanor’sapproachistosellqualityfoodsnotcarriedin

    nearbysupermarketsorconveniencestores,withprioritygiventosmall,independent,local,seasonal,fairlytradedandorganic.ShegetsbaconfromDring’sButchersandthebreadfromPaulRhodesBakery–bothhigh-endGreenwich-basedbusinesses.Theemphasisisonfinefood,whichmeansthatalotoftheitems,whilenodoubtdelicious,arepricey.HoweverEleanorcountersthiswithreasonablypricedbasicssuchassixfreerangeeggsfor£1.40,andalitreofRachel’sOrganicmilkfor£1.15.AlthoughtheshophasonlybeenopensinceNovember

    lastyear,it’snocaseofovernightsuccess,asEleanordevotedfiveyearsofmeticulousplanningtoensurethebusiness’viability.Sheputhermarketingbackgroundtogooduse–surveyingpeopleinthestreettofindoutwhattheywanted.Theywantedfreshfruitandvegetables:“We’reprettymuchtheonlyfreshfruitandvegselleraroundhere.”shesays.Eleanorhasalsofine-tunedtradinghours,sotheshopisopen

    from8amto8pmTuesdaytoFriday(and8amto6pmSaturdays).ThismeanshungrycommutersreturningfromZone1canpickupsomethingtocookfortheeveningmealwhentheyarriveatLadywellstationacrosstheroad.Andopeningat9am–4pmonSundays–that’sararityinLondonanddevotionindeed.

    El’sKitchen,71LadywellRoadSE137JAwww.elskitchen.co.uk

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  • To market what’s in APRILPurple Sprouting Broccoli Early crops were wiped out by our freezing winter. Enjoy these fresh supplies, lightly steamed with butter or hollandaise sauce. Or stir fry the steamed florets with red chilli, finishing with a sprinkle of lemon juice.Wild Garlic Found a patch? Wild garlic is free to the forager; rare and pricey in the shops. The fragrant leaves thrive in damp woodland, just follow their garlicky scent. Stir through pasta, yoghurt, egg dishes or stir fries, or whizz into a pesto.Jersey Royal Potatoes These classy spuds are the first of the year, famous for their creamy texture. Don’t peel - just wash under the tap, boil and serve as simply as possible. Also in season morel mushrooms, radishes, rhubarb (outdoor), spinach, spring onions.

    MAYAsparagus Gorge while you can – our season is swift; imports best avoided. Look for freshly-cut, firm spears with tight buds. For a twist, try shaving into salads or roasting until crispy on the barbecue. Sorrel A gift for the cook, with its refreshing acidity. Toss small leaves into salads, wilt into risottos, or rustle up a tart sauce to complement fish. Also in season artichokes,early carrots, courgettes, fennel, samphire, strawberries.

    JUNECherries Cherry orchards used to liven up our landscape; now we import nearly 95 per cent of the fruit that we eat. So support our remaining growers - farmers’ markets are your best bet to buy their fruit. National Cherry Day is celebrated on 16 July.

    Gooseberries A quintessential British crop. Preserve as a

    relish, simmer for a sauce or add to a classic sponge pudding. Look out for red and dessert varieties, sweet enough to be eaten out of your hand. Also in season aubergine, broad beans,

    damsons, elderflower, peas, watercress.

    Tom Moggach

    Queens Park farmers’ market

    seasonSalusburyRoadLondonNW66RGEverySunday10am–2pmwww.lfm.org.uk/markets/queens-park

    W alkingintoQueensParkfarmers’market,youareimmediatelystruckbytherangeofproduceavailable.

    Onecustomersummeditupnicelyasoffering‘everydayfood,withsomethingfortheweekendtoo’.Whileitmayappearalittlerougharound

    theedges,that’sprobablybecauseQueen’sParkconcentratesmoreongoodqualitylocalproducethanthefancycakesandcoffeeswhichfeaturestronglyatsomemarkets.ItisrunbyLondonFarmers’Markets,

    whichmeans-amongotherthings-thateachstallisrundirectlybytheproducerandthattheproducersarelocal,allhavingtravelledlessthan100miles.Thisalsomeansknowledgeablesellers,whoaregenuinelyinterestedintheirproducts.Seeingasparkleintheireyewhenyouaskhowtogetthebestfromtheiringredientsiswhatitisallabout.DavidEmmettofRockwellEndFarm

    Shop,fromHambleden,Oxfordshire,isagoodexample.Davidclearlyknowshisonions,orratherhispotatoes,whicharegrownonhisfarminHenley-on-Thames.Onofferwhenwevisitedweresomefinepotatoes,suchasFranceline,asaladvariety

    whicharedelicioussimplyboiledandfinishedoffwithsalt,pepperandbutter.Healsostocksfree-rangeeggsandothervegetableswheninseason,suchassweetcorn,tomatoes,peppers,andasparagus.ThegrowingdemandforreallyfreshandseasonalfoodiswhatinspiresDavidtobringhisproducetourbanmarketssuchasthisone.Hesellsatanumberofdifferentmarkets,butstickstonorthand

    westLondontokeepfoodmileslow.Andthestallsarenotallrawingredients

    either.AterrificsoupstallrunbyTheMouthfullFoodCompany,sellshome-cooked,organicsoupintubstotakehome.

    ❋ Featured stallholderWild Country Organics.co.ukOwnedbyAdrianIzzard,WildCountryOrganicsoffersawiderangeoforganically-grownsaladsandvegetables.‘Alovelysalad’shoutedacustomertome,whentheynoticedmeexaminingtheproduce.Ileftwithsomedeliciouscavolonero,whichmadealovely,warmingTuscan-style‘Ribollita’soupwhenIgothome.Excitingvarietiessuchaskomatsunaandlandcressaregrownallyearroundinmorethanfiveacresofglasshouses,heatednaturallybythesun.Thevibrant,greenleavesmakearefreshingcontrasttothepackagedorsometimeswiltedofferingsofsupermarketsaladshelves.

    ByBenjaminHunt

    Food markets around London

    8 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    www.hubbub.co.uk

    Your local shops delivered

    www.hubbub.co.uk

    Who do we deliver from in your area?La Fromagerie * Frank Godfrey Family Butcher Earth Natural Foods * The Barnsbury Grocer Saponara Italian Delicatessen * Fin & FlounderPaul A Young Fine Chocolates * Ottolenghi

    Wouldn’t it be great if the best local shops delivered?Well now they do. At www.hubbub.co.uk you can shop online at the finest independent shops at no extra cost and receive your order all in one delivery. Visit our website, use the postcode-checker to see if we deliver in your area yet, then start shopping.

    Hubbub helps you get hold of, and cook with, the very best quality seasonal fruit and veg, meat, bread, fish, and more. Plus you’ll save time, avoid over-enthusiastic traffic wardens and support independent shops without even leaving your home. You can’t shop much more local than that.

    We’ll also give you FREE DELIVERY on your first order when you quote ‘the Jellied Eel’. Order before midday and we can deliver to you the same day.

    Bring your own bags!

  • season

    www.hubbub.co.uk

    Your local shops delivered

    www.hubbub.co.uk

    Who do we deliver from in your area?La Fromagerie * Frank Godfrey Family Butcher Earth Natural Foods * The Barnsbury Grocer Saponara Italian Delicatessen * Fin & FlounderPaul A Young Fine Chocolates * Ottolenghi

    Wouldn’t it be great if the best local shops delivered?Well now they do. At www.hubbub.co.uk you can shop online at the finest independent shops at no extra cost and receive your order all in one delivery. Visit our website, use the postcode-checker to see if we deliver in your area yet, then start shopping.

    Hubbub helps you get hold of, and cook with, the very best quality seasonal fruit and veg, meat, bread, fish, and more. Plus you’ll save time, avoid over-enthusiastic traffic wardens and support independent shops without even leaving your home. You can’t shop much more local than that.

    We’ll also give you FREE DELIVERY on your first order when you quote ‘the Jellied Eel’. Order before midday and we can deliver to you the same day.

  • rude health rantsThe proudly outspoken Rude Health gang are

    passionate about real food, the way it should be.

    Rude Health take their Rants on the road to food

    festivals across the country, where they’re joined

    by producers, celebrated chefs and food writers

    as they too step up to the microphone to rant.

    Listen to the Rude Health Rants on their website,

    including...

    Steve of Hook & Sons on raw milk

    Jane Mason of Virtuous Bread on real loaves

    Paul A. Young, chocolatier, on Orangutans

    Come and hear the Rude Health Rants live at Foodies Festival in Battersea Park on 29th-31st July 2011.

    www.rudehealth.com

    Rant CompetitionRude Health are giving away 20 packs of their

    new healthy organic snacks. Answer the question

    below and send with your name and address to:

    [email protected]

    Q: Who is Rude Health’s Chief ranter?

  • AnnaFentonuncoversanewschemehopingtorevolutionisethewayLondonersbuytheirfruitandveg.

    The street vendor

    strikes back

    P aulSmithisasecond-generationfruitandvegetablewholesaler.Despiteashortstintinthecity“tradingpeople’sfutures”,fruitandvegiswhatheknows.Histwopartnersarethird

    generationgreengrocersand,together,theyaimtochangethewayyougetyourgreens.StartinginKensington,andthen–literally!–rollingoutto

    therestofLondon,FreshCartsisaninnovativeprojectwhichwillsupplyfresh,sustainableproducefrommobilestreetcarts.ItallbeganwhenPaulheardabouttheGreenCartsproject

    inNewYork.GreenCartswasintroducedasapartofacitystrategytoputfreshlocalfruitsandvegetablesonstreetcorners.Theaimwastomakehealthyfoodaccessibletotheestimated750,000NewYorkerswholiveinfooddeserts.PaulSmithsawagreatopportunityforourowncapital

    city,andsohoppedstraightonaplanetoNewYorkonafact-findingmissionwithhisbusinesspartners:“WhatwefoundoutinNewYorkwasthattheschemehastobecentralised.There’snopointingivingoutindividuallicensestostallholdersbecausethere’snotverymuchprofitinfruitandveg,”hesays.FreshCartsisabusiness,andthereforeprofitisobviously

    important.However,Paulsays,thisdoesn’thavetobeadirtyword.TheethosbehindFreshCartsblendsbusinessandsustainability,profitwithsocialconscience,anditseemstobeaneasymarriage.Fromtheproduce,tothetransport,thepackaging,tothecartitself,FreshCartshasloftyambitionsofbeing“goodforyou–betterforeveryone”.Aswellasprovidingconvenientaccesstohealthyproduce,theprojectaimstoprovidebenefitstotheproducer,tolocalcommunitiesandtothegreaterenvironment.Sohowexactlydoeshehopetoachieveallofthis,leastof

    allrollingout200cartstotheGreaterLondonAreainthreeyears?Carefulplanning,consultationandpartnershipshaveplayedakeypartingettingtheball(andcart!)rolling.AswellashisinvolvementwiththeNationalFarmersUnion,whichhelpstocreateanetworkbetweensellersandlocalgrowers,FreshCartsisalsoenteringaworkingpartnershipwiththegovernment’sChange4Lifeproject.ItseemslikeanaturalunionforPaul:“Weallwantpeopletoeatasproperlyaspossible,anddoaslittledamageaspossible-it’snotrocketscience.Peoplehavegottoeat,andifwecanfindagoodwayforthemtodothat,thenthat’sgreatnewsforustoo.”FreshCarts’mainapproachtosustainabilityisto

    focusonlocalproduce.“Withinayearwewant22percentofproduceonthekioskslocallysourced-withina50mileradius.It’scheapertobuyapplesfromKent

    thanfromFrance,andpeopleliketobuylocally.”Eventhekiosksthemselvesarebeingmadewithin50

    milesofLondon,explainsPaul,andthepackagingisgoingtobemadepredominantlyfrombamboo.“Ican’tfinditanygreener,”hesays.“Althoughitdoeshavetobeimported,itisbiodegradable,andIamusingaLondonbasedcompany.”Theproduceitselfwillbeboughtona‘grow-to-ripe’

    basis,negatingtheneedforexpensiveandenergy–intensivepreservationprocesses.Whereproduceisfromoutsidethe50-milearea,FreshCartswillonlybuyfromsupplierswhomeetstrictproductioncriteria.Makingfresh,ripe,sustainablefruitandvegetables

    readilyavailableonthestreetsincommunitiescouldstrikeablowatthecontrolsupermarketshaveoverourbuyinghabits,somethingthatPaulfeelspassionatelyabout.“Thesupermarketshavesuchagripinourcountry.Wewanttogivepeopletheconfidencetobuyfromstreetsellersagain.”IfFreshCartsgoestoplan,itwilldemonstratethat

    beingsustainableandmakingaprofitdonothavetobemutuallyexclusive.“There’ssuchanincentivetobegreenandsustainable,”Paulsays.“Itmakesgoodbusinesssensetofillyourlorriesasfullaspossible,andgetyourproducelocally,asyouhavetopaylessfordelivery.Buttheotherbenefitsreallymakeitpayoff.”

    [email protected].uk

    The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 11

  • Theroyalfamilyhasbeencriticisedforgivingitsregalstampofapprovaltosomeratherdubiousproductsovertheyears,butanewemphasisonmoreenvironmentallyandsociallyresponsiblepracticesisabouttospreadacrossalltheroyalwarrants.ByKellyParsons.

    T here'sbeenmuchspeculationinrecentmonthsaboutwhatWilliamandKatemightbeeatingfortheirweddingbreakfast.Certainlyiftheirfather(inlaw)hadanythingtodowithit,thefoodwould

    belikelytoscoreprettyhighlyinthesustainabilitystakes.Afterall,thegreencredentialsofHRHPrinceofWalescan'tbedisputed.Whenhe’snotfoundingapioneeringorganicfoodandfarmingcompany,he’sattackingclimatechangesceptics,ordeclaringthatorganicallotmentscansavetheenvironment.Butdothosesameprinciplesstretchtothesustainabilityofthefoodcompaniesheandhisownparentsendorsewitharoyalwarrant?Therearenowover850warrantsinuse,issuedeitherbythe

    Queen,PrincePhiliporPrinceCharlesasamarkofrecognitionforregularlysupplyinggoodsorservicestothemforatleastfiveyears.Around80oftheseareheldbyfoodcompanies,rangingfromthelikesofglobalgiantsUnilever,Kellogg’sandNestlé,tospecialistorlocalsupplierssuchas200year-oldStJames’scheesemakerPaxton&Whitfield,orspecialitymilleroforganicflourShiptonMill,inGloucestershire.ThepresenceofNestléonthelistofroyally-approved

    suppliershas,unsurprisingly,raisedafeweyebrowsovertheyears.Backin2008,campaigninggrouptheFoodCommissioncalledontheQueentouseherwarrantmoreselectively.Itspresenceonhigh-sugarbreakfastcereals,mayonnaise,sugarysoftdrinkssuchasRobinson’sFruitShoots,andonthepackagingofTate&LyleandBritishSugar,thecampaignersargued,wascompletelyatoddswithgovernmentnutritionadvice.

    Elevated ethicsThreeyearson,andoverattheroyalhouseholdsthere’schangeintheair,assustainabilityislikelytotakeamoreprominentroleinwhoreceives-andpotentiallywholoses-thewarrantinthe

    12 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    What’s the sustainable

    deal... WIT

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    HE ROYAL SEAL? ***

  • future.Andthe Jellied Eel’sinvestigationsintosomeoftheLondon-basedroyally-appointedfoodcompanieshaverevealedthat,foreveryNestlé,there’sawarrantholderwithethicalprinciplesclosertoitsheart.Companiessuchastheroyalfamily’s

    localsupermarketFortnum&Mason,wherelocalsuppliersareapriority.Nearly90percentofsuppliersarefromtheUK,theclosestbeingthebeesonitsPiccadillyroof.Itisalsooftenthesoleremainingstockistofaproducer,andclaimstodoitsutmosttokeeplocaltraditionsaliveandprofitable,andusesbicyclesandelectricvehiclesforLondondeliveries(thoughitlosessomeofthosebrowniepointsforsellingfoiegras).

    Know your plaiceWholesaleandretailfishmongerJamesKnightofMayfair,meanwhile,hasjustsigneduptotheSustainableFishCitycampaign.Itsfishpurchasepolicyaimstobuyallwild-captureandfarmedfishfromonlysustainablyandresponsibly-managedsources.Italsousesfishboxesmadefromrecycledcompostablecard,andLPG-poweredvans.Thefishmongerholdswarrantsto

    supplyboththeQueenandthePrinceofWales.“It’sclearfromthereviewsthatsupplieradherencetoethical,sustainable,andenvironmentally-friendlypoliciesisofparamountimportance,”saysthefishmonger’ssalesdirectorNatalieHudd.Inadditiontothestrictqualifying

    criteriaforachieving‘royalappointment’,since1990,applicantsforPrinceCharles’warranthavebeenrequiredtomeetadditionalandincreasinglystringentcriteriacoveringgoodenvironmentalpractice.Thecriteria,whichcomedirectfromthePrinceofWales’office,coverelevenmainissues:climatechange;animalwelfareandendangeredspecies;sustainablefishing;GMOsandchemicals;organic;localsourcing;peatuse;timberandrainforests;genericwastemanagement;humanrights;andlabourstandards.Applicantsarerequiredtoprovideastatementontheirenvironmentalandsocialpolicy,withasupportingstatementonwhatactiontheyaretakingorhowtheyaretacklingrelationshipswithsuppliers.TheyarethenrequiredtosettargetsandannuallyupdatetheRoyalWarrantAssociationonprogress.“Beingaroyalwarrantholderhas

    encouragedustoensureweareattheforefrontofpromotingtheimportanceoftradingsustainably,”confirms

    Natalie.“Ourwarrantholderstatushascertainlyinfluencedourlevelofcommitmentintermsofensuringwearealwaysthemostuptodatewithanydevelopmentsinthefield.”“Theroyalsealisn’tsomethingyou

    canjuststickabovethedoor,”echoesPaulMoore,headofmarketingatdriedfruit,nutandseedimporterCommunityFoods,“especiallywiththeHRHPrinceCharleswarrant,whichwehold.It’snoteasymaintainingit–thereviewprocessisstricterthanthoseoftheotherhouses,andyouareexpectedtoprovidehardevidenceofyourethicalpolicy–sowefindthewarrantdefinitelyhasapositiveinfluenceontheethicsofthebusiness.Itleadstomoreinternalreviews,moresearchingquestions.”LikethePrincehimself,CommunityFoodswasoneofthepioneersoforganicfoodinthe1980s.It’salsobeenalongstandingsupporteroffairtrading,anditsbrand,CrazyJackOrganic,wasresponsibleforlaunchingthefirstFairtradeHimalayanbasmatiriceintheUKin2005.

    The royal auditMariaGrayworksforBusinessintheCommunity(BITC),thenot-for-profitorganisationthathasbeenenvironmentallyauditingroyalwarrant-holdingbusinessesforthepastfifteenyears.SheexplainsthatwhiletherearerequirementsthePrincehasalwaysbeenverypassionateabout-likesustainablefishing,animalwelfareandrainforestdestruction-thecriteriahasexpandedsignificantlyoverthepastfewyears,andisabouttobeextendedfurther.“Wearenowworkingwiththe

    Associationtoaligntheapproachesoftheroyalhouseholds,andapplythePrinceofWales’environmentalandethicalcriteriaacrossallthewarrants,”saysMaria.“Itwasfeltthatconsumersviewingthewarrantshouldbeabletoassumecertainstandards,andthatasthePrinceofWaleshasbeenconcernedaboutanumberofissuesforsometimetheyshouldberolledouttoalltheroyalhouses.”While,todate,nowarrantshave

    beenreversedasadirectresultoftheenvironmentalandethicalaudit,thereisalwaysthepossibilitythatcompaniesnotsatisfyingthecriteriawillfindtheirwarrantisnotextendedonreapplication,whichhappensonaverageeveryfiveyears.Between20and40warrantsarethoughttobelosteachyear,mostoftenbecausethequalityisnotuptothemark,theproductisnolongerrequired,orthehousesarerationalisingsuppliers.

    “Inacoupleofcaseswherewefeltcompaniesweren’tpushinghardenoughwehaveextendedthewarrantforonlyaoneyearperiod,ratherthanthetypicalfiveyears,andmonitoredprogressandprovidedadditionalsupportoverthattime,”saysMaria,addingthatsomeoftheQueen’snewwarrantswilllikelyneedmoresupportintheearlystages,whenthenewcriteriacomesintoeffectnextyear.RichardPeck,secretaryoftheRoyalWarrantAssociation,saysthatcompaniesonlygivenashortextensionperiodforthewarrantshouldviewthisasa‘warningshot’toaddressanyissues.Withtheroyalwarrantprovidingclear

    marketingbenefitsforcompanies,it’sunsurprisingthatthepossibilityoffailingtheauditcanhaveapowerfulinfluence.Thewarrantseemstoensuresustainabilityissupportedbyallstakeholdersinthebusiness,evencommercialdepartments,whichmaynottraditionallyhavehadadirectinterest,andsupplierstoo.“Somecompanies,particularly

    smallerones,maynothavetimetoconsideralltheethicalissues,sohavingthesupportofthePrinceofWales’officebehindthemcanmakeinternalconversationseasier,andprovideanextraleverif,forexample,theyarelookingtochangesuppliers,”saysMaria.PaulfromCommunityFoodsconfirms

    herassessment.“Myjobistokeeptheethicalpolicygoing,buttherearelotsofdifferentpeoplewithdifferingprioritiesinthebusiness,andtheymightnotbethesameasthePrinceofWales’.Ifweholdthewarranteveryoneknowstheyhavetosignuptothoseenvironmentalandsocialprinciples.”

    haverinG

    Some royal warrant holding food companies, based in the capitalJamesKnightofMayfair–FishmongerFortnum&Mason–FoodEmporiumPaxton&Whitfield–CheesemongerCharbonneletWalker–ChocolatierCommunityFoods–DriedFruit,NutandSeedimporterPrestat–ChocolatierSelfridges&Co–DepartmentStoreJeroboams-CheesemongerDailyBread-Caterer

    The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 13

    WIT

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    HE ROYAL SEAL? ***

  • 14 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    R onnyLiuisaresponsibleman.TheownerofNewSpitalfieldsMarket-basedSunnyfieldVegandCook’sDelight,heworksbehindthescenesofindependent

    restaurantsandretailerstoprovidefreshfruitandvegetablesalongsideingredientsthatyoumightnothaveevenheardof.Redbulletchillies,bananaflowersandholy

    basilarejustsomeoftheunusuallinesonofferathisbusyspotinEastLondon’stwilightfoodhub,whichfeedsthecapital’sbusyoutlets.Butbeneaththewhirlwindofeveryday

    trading,Liuisonalong-standingmissiontogivesomethingbacktothecommunity.HehasneverlostsightofthefactthathissonwasbornwithaheartconditionthatwastreatedatGreatOrmondStreetHospital.Eighteenyearson,Christopheris“veryhealthyandveryhandsome”,saysLiu,butthescaremadeitaprioritytosupportbothchildrenandtheelderlyinanywayhecould.Hislatestprojecthasseenhimteamupwiththird-

    generationHerefordshireapplegrowerJamesManningtosupplyJonagoldapplesandtheirjuice,aspartofadealthatwillsee50pfromeveryboxsolddonatedtotheLordMayor’sAppeal.ManningsJonagoldapplejuiceisnowavailableinChineserestaurantsacrossLondon,specialistsupermarketsincludingWingYip,andwilllaunchinSparstoresnationwideinMarch.Thisyear’sappeal,launchedbyLordMayor

    MichaelBearandnamedBearNecessities–BuildingBetterLives,hasthesimultaneousaimstogivechildreninLondonbetteropportunitiesandtosupportinternationaldisasterrelief.TheprojectunitesCoram,theUK’sfirsteverchildren’scharity,withRedR,whichtrainsandprovidesengineersandreliefworkerstorespondtoworldwideemergencies.Ronnyhassofarraisednearly£1,000forthecausethroughhispartnershipwithManningsalone.And

    hehasalsosupportedanumberoffund-raisingeventsforGreatOrmondStreetHospital,theIslingtonChineseAssociationandtherebuildingoftheSichuanearthquakeregiontonameafew.“Wearealwaysmotivatedbycharityand

    tohelptheelderlyandchildreninparticular–ifwecandosomethingtogivebacktothecommunity,wewill,”saysLiu.“Atthesametime,ifwecandogoodforthefruitandvegetableindustry,it’swin-winforeveryone.”

    www.sunnyfield328.comwww.mannings-juice.co.uk

    AdamandEvewouldn’thavegotintothebadbooksforabiteofanappleorasipofitsjuice,ifNewSpitalfieldsMarkettraderRonnyLiuhadanythingtodowithit.AnnaSbuttonitalkstothemanwhoisbringingHerefordshire-grownapplesandtheirpremiumjuicetotheChinesecommunityinthecapital,andraisingmoneyintheprocess.

    local to london

    Photo: Adela Nistora

    One good apple…

  • Thephenomenonofthesuppercluborpop-upembodiesausteritychicandiseasytograsp:amateurchefscan

    ‘haveago’withoutcommittingtoafullscalebusinessanddinersgetarelativelyaffordablemealwithameasureofurbanandculinaryadventurethrownin.Butasthescenematures,isn’tit

    timetoaskhowsustainablethefoodis?Someprogresshasbeenmadewithmainstreamrestaurantsandevenfast-foodchainsservingupfree-rangeeggs,reducingfoodwasteandcuttingfoodmiles.Butare‘guerillarestaurants’–virtuallyunregulatedandrunonashoestring–morepushedtocutcornersandsogiveprioritytocheapproduceratherthanenvironmentalcredentials?It’shardtomakeanygeneralisations

    aboutthe80-oddsupperclubsandpop-upsinLondon.Someareallabouttheatricalityandnovelty,whileafewothersobsessoverproducefreshnessandprovenance.However,ifwefocusjustonsupperclubsforthemoment,whicharetinyandhome-based,aren’ttheywell-placedtobemoresustainable?Withthenumberofdinersknowninadvanceandafixedmenu,anexactquantityoffoodcanbebought,soalmostthereshouldbealmostzerowaste–providedtheresultingdishisnotsoavant-gardethateveryonereturnsithalf-eaten!Sometimesexperimentationand

    sustainabilitycanhappilycoalesce.MsMarmiteLover,veritablegodmotheroftheLondonsupperclubscene,declares:“Eco-extremismisboring…there’stoomuchguilt-trippingaboutsustainability.”Butshehasjustputona‘jarmeal’atherUndergroundRestaurant–amenuofpickledandpotteddelicacies.“Canningisquiteenergyefficient,”she

    explains,“youcanstorefoodwithoutrefrigerationandstockupseasonalglutstouseatothertimesoftheyear.”MsMarmiteLover’srestaurantalso

    eschewsmeat(butnotfish),forethicalandenvironmentalreasons.TheVeganPeasant,asthenamesuggests,leavesoutdairyandeggstoo.StartedbyDianaPinkettandchefAdrianSmithlatelastyear,thesupperclubservesaseven-courseplant-basedmenuinaHackneylivingroomforsixpeople.Themenuhasanaturallylowerenvironmentalimpact,anditmaybetheonlyregularvegansupperclubintheUK.Fruitandvegisboughtfromanall-

    organicfarmers’market.“Weuseasmuchorganicaspossible,butyoucan’tdoitwitheverything,”explainsDiana,“we’rehavinganotherCaribbean-inspiredmenusoon,buttheplantainswon’tbeorganic.”Likemostsupperclubs,theVeganPeasantrunsontightmargins,butDianabelieves

    withthesourcesshecurrentlybuysfrom,organicproduceneedn’tcostmuchmore.TheUndergroundRestaurantand

    othersareembracingalternativesupplychains,utilisingfreelancebuyerswhoknowtheproducerswellandcandoallthelegwork.Anotherwell-knownsupperclub,theRamblingRestaurant,buysitsfruitandvegfromthePeople’sSupermarket,thehigh-profileco-operativeshopthataimstoformsupplyrelationshipswithfarmerswhoseproducefailstheperfectiontestofthebigsupermarkets.Thegeneralapproachinthisnewworld

    ofguerrillachefsandguerrillabuyersseemspragmaticaboveall:buyingproducethatisasseasonal,British,andsustainablycaughtorreared‘aspossible’.It’sagoodplacetostart.Forsomesupperclubs,itwillbeanadditionalchallengetoensuretheatricalityandexperimentationworkwith,andnotagainst,sustainability.

    Barelyaweekgoesbywithouthearingofyetanotherintriguingnewsuppercluborpop-uprestaurantconceptinLondon.But,ClareHillasks,aretheseunregulatedeateriesalsocuttingcornerswiththeirfoodethics?

    Pop upPrinciples?

    Tofindouthowtobookattableatoneofourfeaturedsupperclubssee:http://marmitelover.blogspot.comhttp://veganpeasantcatering.comhttp://ramblingrestaurant.com

    Anddon’tforgetthatsustainabilitycanbeapriorityforotherkindsofforpop-ups,notjustsupperclubs-seeourarticleonStreetKitchenatwww.sustainweb.org/jelliedeel/articles/142/

    The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 15

    on the menu

    ‘Rambling HQ’ prepares to open its doors for another secret supper. Photo: Rambling Restaurant

  • 16 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    a taste of london

    T hesedeliciousEasterbunshaveacolourfulhistoryofreligiousandsuperstitioustales,butnonearemoreheartbreakingthanthe

    storyofTheWidow’sSon.Legendhasitthatduringtheearly19thCentury,awidowlivedinacottagewithheronlysononwhatisnowDevonsRoadintheEastLondonareaofBow.HersailorsonleftfortheseabutpromisedtobebackontheGoodFridayof1824.Awaitinghisreturn,hismotherbakedhimahotcrossbun,butheneverarrived.EveryyearuntilherdeathshebakedabunonGoodFriday,hopingtowelcomehersonhome,butsheneversawhimagain.Inthe1840s,apubreplacedthecottageand

    hasbeennamedTheWidow’sSoneversince.ThepubholdsaserviceeveryEasterforthelostmariner,whereamemberoftheRoyalNavalpresentsahotcrossbuntobehungatthebar.There’snothinglikeahotcrossbunwith

    meltedbutterandacupoftea,sowhetheryou’recommemoratingthewidow’sson,areligiouseventorjustfancyatastytreat,whynotuseourgoodold-fashionedrecipewithafewmodern,sustainableupdates.

    Recipe (makes 16 buns)Mixuptheferment12-18hoursbeforeyouwanttomakethehotcrossbuns.Heatthewateruntilitfeelslukewarmtothetouchthenstirintothefreshyeastuntilitissmoothlyblended.Mixthisliquidintotheflour,coverthebowlwithclingfilmandleaveinacoolplacetoriseanddropagain.Forthedough,mixtogethertheflours,salt,

    sugarandspice.Meltthebutter,pouritontothedryingredientstogetherwiththebeateneggandmilk.Stirtheliquidwithyourhand,graduallydrawinginsomeofflourmixture.Whenthecentreisnolongerliquidaddthefermentfromthedaybeforeandmixtogether.Coverthedoughandletitrestfor30

    minutesorsobeforekneadinginearnest.Whilstthedoughisresting,chopthepeel.Kneadthedoughuntilitissmoothand

    elasticthenstretchoutintoarectangularshapewithouttearing.Scatterthechoppedpeelover

    thedoughandthenfoldthebottomthirdover,followedbythetopthird.Givethedoughaquarterturnandstretchitoutagain.Thistimescatterwiththe

    sultanasandrepeatthefoldingprocess.Putthedoughintoalargebowl,coverwith

    clingfilmandleaveinawarmplace,suchasanairingcupboard,untilthedoughhasdoubledinsize.Thiswilltakeabouttwohours.Brieflykneadthedoughtoknockout

    theairandthendivideitintofourpieces,thendivideeachquarterintofourandshapeeachpieceintoaball.Placetheseontogreasedbakingsheetsallowingagapapproximatelythesamesizeaseachballbetweenthemforthedoughtorise.Coverandputbackinawarmplacefor

    thedoughtoriseagain-about45minutes.Meanwhile,mixtogethertheingredients

    tomakethecrosses.Putthemixtureintoapipingbagfittedwithabroadplainnozzle.Pre-heattheovento210ºC(190ºCinafanoven)/gasmark5.Pipeacrossovereachbun.Putthebuns

    intotheovenandturntheheatupto220ºC(200ºCinafanoven)/gasmark6.Bakefor12-15minutesuntillightlygoldenincolour.Whilstthebunsarebakingmixtogethertheingredientsfortheglazeandbrushoverthebunsassoonastheyareremovedfromtheoven.Enjoy!By Gaby De Sena

    RecipekindlysubmittedbySuzanneWynnforTheRealBreadCampaign.Fortipsaboutthisandotherrecipes,moreinformationonRealBreadortojointheCampaign,pleasevisitwww.realbreadcampaign.org

    Ingredients

    Theferment:140gstrongwhiteflour20gfreshyeast(or10gdried activeyeast)150mlwater

    Thedough:310gstonegroundstrong whiteflour1tspsalt3tspmixedspice55glightmuscovadosugar55gbutter,melted1egg,beaten125mlmilk85ghandchoppedcandied lemonpeel85gsultanas

    Thecrosses:50gplainwhitehousehold flourPinchofbakingpowder40-50mlwater1tspvegetableoil

    Theglaze:1egg2tbspsugar2tbspboilingwater140gbutter140gcastersugar28gyeastcreamedwith1tsp ofsugar4eggs½cuptepidmilk1tspmixedspice1cupcurrantsPinchofsaltSyrupforglazing:¼cupof sugarboiledwith2tbspwater

    Seewww.thejelliedeel.orgfordetailsofwheretoshopethicallyfortheseingredients.

    Hot Cross BunsHot cross buns! Hot cross buns! One a penny, two a penny, hot cross buns!

    Hot cross buns on display in The Widdow's Son pub, East London. Photo: Adela Nistora

  • Food Safari gives you behind-the-scenes access to some of Suffolk’s best loved food and drink producers. We specialise in Field to Fork days: farm walks, fishing trips, and wild food forays; cookery and butchery workshops; and fabulous feasts.

    Gourmet experiences from field to fork

    www.foodsafar

    i.co.uk

    [email protected]

    i.co.uk

    01728 621380

    I nLondon,findingyourlocalcoffeeshopisapopularpursuit.Acoffeeshopgoodenoughforpeopletocalltheirownobviouslyhastosellgreatcoffeeandhaveagoodvibe.Itneedstobecomfortable,butalso‘cool’.AndforusattheJellied Eelthatmeansitdefinitelyhastobesociallyawareandupholdethicalbusinesspractices!Soundabitidealistic?WellMyCoffee

    Stopfitsthebillonallcounts.AlthoughsituatedonPlatformOneofEnfieldChase

    station,thiscafeisnotonlypopularwithcommuters-the

    area’sinformedcoffeeshop-hunterscomeherespecially.HeadbaristaGunther,achampionofFairtrade,hasbeendescribedbydevotedcustomersasa‘coffeegenius’.Acharitybookswapschememeansthat,forasmall

    donation,visitorscansupportthenearbyChickenshedtheatrewhileenjoyingaconstantsupplyoflow-costanddiverseliterature.AndthisisjustoneexampleofhowownersKarenandGuntherarededicatedtotheirlocalcommunity.TheyalsoenthusiasticallyencourageotherbusinessestosupportFairtrade,andeventookituponthemselvestocompileaFairtradedirectoryforthearea.By Matt Atkinson

    TheJellied EelwouldliketothankMyCoffeeStopanditsstafffortheircontinuedsupport.www.mycoffeestop.co.uk

    star jellied eel stockistMy Coffee Stop An 'ethico

    ol' coffee joint...

    Areyouashop,restaurant,café,traderorcommunitycentrewithsustainablefoodatitsheartthatwantstohelpu[email protected]sustainweb.orgaboutstockingtheJellied Eel.

    We do!How wedded are the

    royals to ethical nosh?

    SPRING 2011

    ISSUE 32

    Freemagazine

    Top of the pop-upsFruit carts roll out in LondonFood growing universities ❋ Hot cross buns ❋ Turn on to tap

    London's magazine for ethical eating

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    APRIL❋ Sowingseasonisnowinfullswing.Mostcanbedoneoutdoors,butstartmoretendercropsindoors-squashes,courgettesandcucumbers.❋ Itcanbeawiseinvestmenttobuyseedlingplantsofcropssuchastomatoesandchillies,astheyarebeststartedoffearlyandrequireextraheattogerminate.❋ Ifyoustartplantsoffindoors,brushthemwithyourhandwheneveryoupass–thishelpsto‘hardenthemoff’,mimickingtheactionofthewind.

    MAY❋ Prepareforplantingoutyoursquashesandcourgettes.Ideallyaddwell-rottedmanureorcompost.❋ Don’tforgettheedibleflowers,especiallythewonderfulnasturtium.Itthrivesonneglectandyoucaneatboththeleavesandflowers.❋ Forbushyplants,pinchoutthegrowingtips.Thisworkswellforbasilandchillies.

    JUNE❋ Takeyourtimewhenwatering–adeepsoak,lessoften,isfarbetterthanregularrushedsprinklings.❋ Ifsaladorherbcropsarestartingtoflower,pinchthemofftoprolongtheiruse-ablelife.❋ Applynettingoverripeningsoftfruits.Abarrierwilldeterbirdsfromfeastingonforbiddenfruit!Pickfruittoeatfresh,orforjuicing,jelliesandjams.

    TomMoggachofCityLeaf*

    GROWING CALENDAR

    Nowsupportingover850spaces

    capital growth

    *CityLeafprovidesfood-growingtrainingtogroupsandschools.Formoreinformation,call02074859262orseewww.cityleaf.co.uk

    ABSeedsLearning your

    T heSchoolofOrientalandAfricanStudieswasoneofthefirstUniversitiestojointheCapitalGrowthcampaigntocreate2012newfoodgrowingspacesby2012.ItsGoodFood

    Societyaimstointroducestudentstosustainablefood,raiseawarenessofwherefoodcomesfrom,howitisproducedandhowitisused,andfoodgrowingisoneofthemainactivities.In2008,agroupofstudentsgotpermissiontoturna

    litteredandovergrownpieceoflandintoanediblegarden.AgrantfromCapitalGrowthfundedtopsoil,seeds,plantsandtools,andopendaysonSaturdayswereheldforvolunteerstohelpoutinreturnforashareoftheharvest.Theynowintendtoexpandthegrowingspacetoincludeasmallforestgarden,asoftfruitcageandon-sitewaterharvesting.SOASisjustoneofanumberofuniversitiesthathave

    takenupthespadeinthepastfewyears,withotherfood-growingspacesatRoehampton,Birkbeck,LSE,Westminster,CityandUCL.Nowschools,nurseries,collegesanduniversitiescouldwinarangeofprizesincludingtools,raisedbeds,fruittrees,seedsandgiftcardsaspartofCapitalGrowth’sABSeedcompetition.Thereiseventheopportunityfortwopeoplefrom

    secondaryschoolsoruniversitiestospendadayshadowingtopchefsatFifteenLondon,therestaurantfoundedbyJamieOlivertoinstilinstaffandapprenticesapassionforgreatfoodandarespectfortheenvironment.Oneofthewinnersoflastyear’scompetition,which

    wasopentoprimaryschools,wasSouthHaringeyInfantSchoolwherepupilscreatedabughoteltoencourageinsects.“Thisprojecthasdemonstratedhowmuchcanbeachievedinagardenandprovidesanengagingandhealthyenvironmentforpupilswhomaynothaveaccesstotheoutdoorsathome,”saysheadteacherRajRotbcha.“Theyalsogottotastethedeliciousproduce,withenoughpotatoesbeingharvestedtofeedallofthe180pupils.”

    Toregisterforthecompetition,visitwww.capitalgrowth.org/[email protected]Thedeadlinetoregisteris3June2011.CapitalGrowthissupportedbytheMayorofLondonandtheBigLottery’sLocalFoodFund.

    Universitiesarecatchingthefoodgrowingbug,withmoreandmoreediblegardensappearingoncampuses.NowtheABSeedcompetitionisofferingthemyetanotherincentivetogetgrowing,explainsMichaelDees.

  • 20 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    lizaFlanaganjogsacrossthecourtyardinbarefeettogreetmeandwhisksmeupthehessiancoveredstairstohermezzanineapartment.Aswedrinkteaandtalk,apotofrainbowchardandchivesswaysinthebreeze

    onthewindowsill.SheexplainshowafteraroadtriparoundAmerica,

    wheresheexperiencedfirsthandthe‘farmtofork’movement-takingindinnerpartiesinfields,mobilefarmersmarkets,andcaféscelebratinglocalproduce–shereturnedinspiredanddeterminedtointegratethisphilosophyintoherkitchenandherwork.“Irealisedawhileagothatoneofthegreatest

    powerswehaveisthroughourwallets,soItrytobeasconsciousaspossibleaboutthethingsIpurchase.Ibuymostofmyfoodfromfarmers'marketsandlocalshops;eventhenearbyofflicencehasstartedtoseethepotentialandisbuyinginorganicproduce”sheadds.Nowshe’sgoingonestepfurther,andsettingupalocal

    pizzarestaurant,because,shesays,“it’safoodeveryoneloves”.Alongwitharangeof‘red,whiteandgreenpizzas’,therestaurantwillalsoservequalitycharcuteries,fromsmallproducersintheUK,includingmangalitzapork,ararebreedonlyreintroducedintoBritainafewyearsago.However,herambitionsdon’tstopthere.Inthelongtermsheplanstostartcuringin-houseandmakingherownricotta.“Foodandhospitalityhavealwaysbeeninmyblood,”she

    says.“InAustraliamyparentsranrestaurantsandmydadstillownsavineyardthere.”HewasdisappointedwhenElizatoldhimshecouldn’tsellhiswineinhernewrestaurant.DuetoopeninHackneyinSeptember,Lardo–namedaftertheItaliancoldcut–willspecialiseinproducewherethemajorityhascomefromtheUK,andnothingfrombeyondEurope.

    “InbothmykitchenandtherestaurantIwanttoeatasseasonallyaspossible,”shesays.InsteadofbuyingimportedpeppersandchilliesoverthewinterElizaplanstopicklethem.Agleamingjarofpreservedlemonsonthesideinherkitchentestifiestotheseambitions.Sheevenconsideredreplacingimportedcaperswithlocalgeraniumbudsbutdecidedthatmightbeasteptoofar.Withallthisemphasisonlocalorganicfood,theremust

    besomeguiltysecrets?“Well,Idoloveeatingout-whichcanmeanit’shardertoknowwherethefoodhascomefrom,althoughmoreandmorerestaurantsarestartingtocelebratetheprovenanceofthefoodtheyserve;andIdohaveasoftspotforfreshherbs,sometimesmorethanIcanuse.”AsIgetreadytoleave,Elizabeginschoppingonionsinthe

    kitchen.‘Sowhat’sfordinnertonight?’Iask:“Whitewine,barleyandbeefstew”–organicandlocalofcourse...!www.lardo.co.uk

    ElizagetsafreegoodybagfromthesplendidladiesatHappyKitchenasathankyouforlettingusthroughherdoor.Ifyouwouldlikeustoconsiderputtingyourkitchenunderourmicroscope,[email protected]

    Reader’s kitchen

    AnnaFrancisvisitsareaderwhohasbeeninspiredtotakeherculinaryambitionstoanewlevel

    e

    to

    Lardo

    Fromlarder

    Photos: Anna Francis

  • The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 21

    London food linkKiriLewinhasbeenrunningCaféCremaintheheartofNewCrossforsixyears,togetherwithherpartnerChrisBoddington.Thecafé,withitsBurfordBrownhensinthegarden,sells

    Fairtradeteaandcoffee,hotfoodandhomemadecakes.Themostlyorganicvegetablesandfree-rangeeggsaresuppliedbyaLincolnshirefarmer,foodwasteiscomposted,packagingrecycled,andthecaféisstartingtogrowsomeofitsownproduce.Kirihasalwayslovedorchards.Asayoungchildsheaccidentally

    plantedawhitepeachtree,justbythrowingawayastoneinthegarden.Inhertwenties,latesummerswerespentfruit-pickinginKent.Today,twothirdsoftheUK’straditionalorchardshavebeenlost,soKiriisstartingaprojectcalledTheSecretOrchard;asmallurbanorchardofmainlyheritagemaidentrees,includingpears,applesandquinces.Itwillbeplannedandplantedbyvolunteers.KiriattendedtheCo-operative’s‘PlanBee’urbanbeekeeping

    schemeatCamleyStreet,gainingexperienceandherownhiveofCarniolanhoneybees.ThehiveisinPeckham,inacommunityapiaryclosetothecafé.Sheplanstoselltheirandotherlocalbeekeepers’honeyaspartofasocialenterprise,puttingfundsbackintobeekeepingtrainingandplantingabee-friendlygarden.CaféCremahostsmanyevents,includinganannualsummer

    benefitfestival(lastyear’sraised£500forHopenotHate),filmnightsand‘makedoandmend’knittingandsewingclasses.Twosewingmachinesareavailabletouseonadrop-inbasis.Forcaféandeventdetailspleasevisitwww.cafecremaevents.co.uk

    Featured London Food Link memberCafé Crema

    Love the Jellied Eel?JoinLondonFoodLinkandhaveacopydeliveredtoyourdooreveryquarter.LondonFoodLinkisanetworkoforganisationsandindividuals:farmersandfoodwriters,caterersandcommunityfoodprojects,restaurantsandreviewers.WeworkonincreasingtheavailabilityofsustainablefoodinLondonthroughtraining,adviceandcampaigning.TheJellied EelisafreemagazinewepublishtoraiseawarenessofethicalfoodissuesinLondonandLondon’sgrowinglocalandsustainablefoodmovement.Weareacharity.

    Member benefits❋ getourmagazinetheJellied EelwithLondonnewsandarticlesdeliveredtoyourdoor❋ makeusefulLondonfoodcontacts❋ findoutwhat’sgoingonaroundLondonwithourregularemailupdatesincludinglocalfoodnewsandfundinginfo❋ invitesanddiscountedentrytoourregularLondonFoodLinksoiréesandaffiliatedtraining/events–greatfornetworkingandaccessingexpertise

    How to joinOnline:Gotowww.sustainweb.org/londonfoodlink/membership,[email protected],thenclickthe‘makeapayment’link.Post:Completethisformandsenditwithachequemadepayableto‘Sustain’,to94WhiteLionStreet,LondonN19PF.

    Membership form London Food Link

    Name

    Business/organisation

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    Pleasewriteabriefsummaryofwhoyouare/yourinterestinlocalfood

    £20–individualornot-for-profitcommunityproject £40–charity,socialenterpriseorcompanywithlessthan£100,000annualturnover £70–publicbody,orcompanywith£100,000–£1,000,000annualturnover £100–companywithmorethan£1,000,000annualturnover

    RateIfthefeeisnot,forwhateverreason,afairreflectionofyourabilitytopaymembership,thenpleasegetintouch.Ifyouareacommunityproject,foodbusinessorlocalauthority,[email protected]lvedwithLondonFoodLink.

    London Food LinkJoin us!

  • what’s onFarmers’ market plant fairsFrom April onwards London widePlantfairsatmostfarmers’marketsaroundLondonsellingunusualperennials,vegetableplants,herbs,fruittreesandmuchmore.www.lfm.org.uk

    Pruning workshop10 April Dukes Meadows West LondonWorkshopforpruningstonefruittrees.Contactforplaces.www.abundancelondon.comPlant sale, open day and drop-in event16 April – 10-1pm Hammersmith Community GardensFreeentry,RavenscourtParkGreenhouses.Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training

    Wildlife friendly food growing17 April – 10:30-1:30pm PeckhamHeldatLondonWildlifeTrust’sCentreforWildlifeGardening,thisworkshopisanintroductionongrowingfruitandvegwhilsthelpingwildlife.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training

    Melvita bee event22 AprilStMartin’sCourtyard,Covent GardenOrganiccompanyMelvitaisorganisingabeeawarenessevent,includingfreehoneytastings,beeadviceandmuchmore.www.Melvita.co.uk

    Real Street Food Festival 29 April – 2 MaySouthbank CentreSeep7.www.realfoodfestival.co.ukReal Food Festival 5 – 8 MayEarls CourtThe4thRealFoodFestivalwillshowcaseahugevarietyofthetalent,skillandinitiativefromtheworldof‘extraordinary’food.DemonstrationsliketheAllen’sOfMayfairButcheryTheatre,foodfromRealFoodproducersandthebeststreetfoodvendors.www.realfoodfestival.co.ukIntroductory bee keeping training course7 May Hackney City FarmThisone-dayintroductorycourseisdesignedtogiveageneralunderstandingoftheroleofbeesinsupportingwildlifeandagriculturalproductionandatasterofwhatitwouldbeliketolookafterbees.www.lowimpact.org/hackney_course_outline_beekeeping.htmGrowing in Small Spaces7 May – 10-1pm Hammersmith Community GardensRavenscourtParkGreenhouses.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training

    Soil: how to work with the life under our feet11 May – 6-9pmGrowing Communities - Allens GardensDiscoverthelifeinthesoilwewalkon,andhowwecanworkmosteffectivelywithittoproducehealthyvegetables.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissiteseewww.capitalgrowth.org/training

    22 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org

    Jellied Eel.indd 1 24/3/11 14:48:49

    The Natural Wine Fair 15 May Borough MarketAnopportunitytotasteandbuynaturallyproducedwine,aswellasattendtastingclassesandmeetthesuppliers.ThefairispartofNaturalWineFortnight,whichrunsfrom9-22May.Seep7.www.thenaturalwinefair.com

    How to start and run a supper club 21 MaySeveralofthemostcelebratedsupperclubhostswillbeholdingaconferenceonhowtorunagoodclub.SuchleadinglightsasMsMarmiteLoverfromtheUndergroundRestaurant,LynnoftheSecretTeaRoomandJamesfromTheSecretLarderwillbesharingtheirsecrets.http://marmitelover.blogspot.com

    Restaurant Ramble 26 May JointhisramblearoundthebestvegetarianrestaurantsintownonThursday26May.Seep6.www.ethicaleats.orgABSeed competition3 JuneDeadlineforregistrationforfood-growingcompetition,opentonurseriesthroughtohigher/furthereducation.Seep19.www.capitalgrowth.org/schools/abseed

    London Green Fair4 – 5 JuneRegents ParkBuildingonthesuccessandpopularityoftheCamdenGreenFair,thiseventinRegent’sPark‘willbeaninteractivesmorgasbordofbothseriousandsuggestivetakesontheenvironmentalissuesthataffectLondoners’.www.londongreenfair.org

    Big Lunch 5 June NationwideTheBigLunchwillbekickingoffonhundreds,maybethousands,ofstreetsaroundthecountry.TheEdenProjectinitiatedthisannualeventtwoyearsagotobringneighbourhoodstogether.Findyourneareststreetpartyhere,orsetupyourown!www.thebiglunch.com

    Open Garden Squares Weekend 11 – 12 JuneThisyeartherewillbelotsoffoodgrowing-spacesopeningtheirdoorstothepublic,including21CapitalGrowthspaces,mostofwhichhaven’tbeenpartofthisannualeventbefore.www.opensquares.org

    Organic pest and disease control18 June – 10.30-1pm (or Wednesday 22 June 5.30-8pm) Regents ParkLearnaboutwhatthecommondiseasesandpeststhatattackyourfruitandvegetables,andlookatalternativesandnaturalmethodsfordealingwiththem.£20(£10forLFLmembers).Forfullprogrammeoftrainingandeventsatthissite,seewww.capitalgrowth.org/training

    Formoreeventsgotowww.sustainweb.org/londonfoodlink/events_calendar/

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  • is not about making big profits for shareholders but creating value for its members.

    is not about making big profits for shareholders but creating value for its members.