Vietnam Travel Guide - Wiki Travel

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    Contents

    [+] UnderstandHistoryEconomyClimateHolidays

    Regions

    CitiesOther destinations[+] Get in

    By planeBy train[+] By road

    CambodiaChinaLaos

    [+] Get aroundBy planeBy trainBy busBy car By cycleBy motorcycle taxiBy motorcycleBy cycloBy boat

    Talk SeeDo[+] Buy

    Hassle and BargainCosts

    Eat[+] Drink

    Pubs/bars

    Beer Wine and liquor Soft drinksCoffee

    Sleep

    Location

    Flag

    Quick Facts

    Capital Hanoi

    Government Socialist republic

    Currency ng (VND)Area total: 331,690 km 2

    land: 325,360 km 2

    water: 4,200 km 2

    Population 85,262,356 (July 2007 est.)Language Vietnamese (official),

    Chinese, English, French,and Khmer; mountain arealanguages (Mon-Khmer andMalayo-Polynesian)

    Religion Buddhism (Mahayana andTheravada), Daoism,Confucianism, Hoa Hao,Cao Dai, Christian(predominantly RomanCatholic, some Protestant),indigenous beliefs, Muslim

    Electricity 220V

    Calling Code 84

    Vietnam

    From Wikitravel

    Asia : Southeast Asia : Vietnam

    Vietnam (Vit Nam)[1]

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    LearnWork [+] Stay safe

    CrimeCorruptionProstitutionScam

    Traffic NightlifeWildlife

    Stay healthyRespect[+] Contact

    [+] PhoneTelephoneMobile phones

    Internet

    .

    Time Zone UTC +7

    The tank that ended the war, Ho ChiMinh City

    (http://www.vietnamtourism.com) , officially the Socialist Republic of Vietnam (Cng ha x h i chngh a Vit Nam) is a country in SoutheastAsia. Its neighboring countries are China to the north, Laos and Cambodiato the west.

    Understand

    History

    Vietnam's history is a history of war, colonization and rebellion. Occupied by China no fewer than four times, the Vietnamese managed to fight off the invaders just as often. Even during the periods in history when Vietnamwas independent, it was mostly a tributary state to China until the Frenchcolonisation. Vietnam's last emperors were the Nguy n Dynasty , who

    ruled from their capital at Hue from 1802 to 1945, although Franceexploited the succession crisis after the fall of T c to de facto colonize

    Vietnam after 1884. Both the Chinese occupation and French colonisation have left a lasting impact onVietnamese culture, with Confucianism forming the basis of Vietnamese social ettiquette, and the French leavinga lasting imprint on Vietnamese cuisine.

    After a brief Japanese occupation in World War II, the Communist Viet Minh under the leadership of H Ch Minh continued the insurgency against the French, with the last Emperor Bao Dai abdicating in 1945 and a

    proclamation of independence following soon after. The majority of French had left by 1945, but in 1946 theyreturned to continue the fight until their decisive defeat at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. The Geneva Conference

    partitioned the country into two at 17th parallel, with a Communist-led North and Ngo Dinh Diem declaringhimself President of the Republic of Vietnam in the South.

    US economic and military aid to South Vietnam grew through the1960s in an attempt to bolster the Southern Vietnam government,escalating into the dispatch of 500,000 American troops in 1966and what became known as the Vietnam War - although theVietnamese refer to it as the American War . What was supposedto be a quick and decisive action soon degenerated into aquagmire, and US armed forces were withdrawn following acease-fire agreement in 1973. Two years later, on April 30, 1975,a North Vietnamese tank drove into the South's PresidentialPalace in Ho Chi Minh City and the war ended. Over 55,000Americans and an estimated 3 million Vietnamese were killed.

    The American Vietnamese war was only one of many that theVietnamese have fought, but it was the most brutal in its history.Over two thirds of the current population was born after 1975. American tourists will receive a particularlyfriendly welcome in Vietnam, as many young Vietnamese aspire to American culture.

    Economy

    Economic reconstruction of the reunited country has proven difficult. After the failures of the state-run economy started to become apparent, the

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    Bustling central Hanoi

    country launched a program of i m i (renovation), introducing elementsof capitalism. The policy has proved highly successful, with Vietnamrecording near 10% growth yearly (except for a brief interruption during theAsian economic crisis of 1997). The economy is much stronger than those of Cambodia, Laos, and other neighboring developing countries. Like mostCommunist countries around the world, there is a fine balance betweenallowing foreign investors and opening up the market.

    Climate

    Vietnam is large enough to have several distinct climate zones.

    The South has three somewhat distinct seasons: hot and dry from March to May/June; rainy fromJune/July to November; and cool and dry from December to February. April is the hottest month, withmid-day temperatures of 33C or more most days. During the rainy season, downpours can happenevery afternoon, and occasional street flooding occurs. Temperatures range from stifling hot before arainstorm to pleasantly cool afterward. Mosquitoes are most numerous in the rainy season. December to

    February is the most pleasant time to visit, with cool evenings down to around 20C.

    The North has four distinct seasons, with a comparatively chilly winter (temperatures can dip below 15Cin Hanoi), a hot and wet summer and pleasant spring (March-April) and autumn (October-December)seasons. However, in the Highlands both extremes are amplified, with occasional snow in the winter andtemperatures hitting 40C in the summer.

    In the Central regions the Hai Van pass separates two different weather patterns of the North starting inLangco (which is hotter in Summer and colder in Winter) from the milder conditions South starting inDanang. North East Monsoon conditions September - February with often strong winds, large sea swellsand rain make this a miserable and difficult time to travel through Central Vietnam. Normally summers arehot and dry. Global climate is becoming more difficult to predict - except that the extremes are occurringmore often and seasons are not as predictable; meaning that storms are more common and stronger than

    before.

    Holidays

    By far the largest holiday of the year is Tt , celebration of the New Year (as marked by the lunar calendar),which takes place between late January and March on the Western calendar. In the period leading up to T t,

    the country is abuzz with preparations. Guys on motorbikes rush around delivering potted tangerine trees andflowering bushes, the traditional household decorations. People get a little bit stressed out and the elbows getsharper, especially in big cities, where the usual hectic level of traffic becomes almost homicidal. Then a fewdays before T t the pace begins to slow down, as thousands of city residents depart for their ancestral hometowns in the provinces. Finally on the first day of the new year an abrupt transformation occurs: the streets

    become quiet, almost deserted. Nearly all shops and restaurants close for three days, (the exception being a fewthat cater especially to foreign visitors; and hotels operate as usual.)

    In the major cities, streets are decorated with lights and public festivities are organized which attract manythousands of residents. But for Vietnamese, T t is mostly a private, family celebration. On the eve of the new

    year, families gather together and exchange good wishes (from more junior to more senior) and gifts of "luckymoney" (from more senior to more junior). In the first three days of the year, the daytime hours are devoted tovisiting -- houses of relatives on the first day, closest friends and important colleagues on the second day, andeveryone else on the third day. Many people also visit pagodas. The evening hours are spent drinking andgambling (men) or chatting, playing, singing karaoke, and enjoying traditional snacks and candy (women and

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    children.)

    Visiting Vietnam during T t has good points and bad points. On the minus side: modes of transport are jammedust before the holiday as many Vietnamese travel to their home towns; hotels fill up, especially in smaller towns;

    and your choice of shopping and dining is severely limited in the first days of the new year (with a few placesclosed up to two weeks). On the plus side, you can observe the preparations and enjoy the public festivities;

    pagodas are especially active; no admission is charged to those museums and historical sites that stay open; andthe foreigner-oriented travel industry of backpacker buses and resort hotels chugs along as usual. Visitors alsostand a chance of being invited to join the festivities, especially if you have some local connections or manage tomake some Vietnamese friends during your stay. When visiting during T t, it's wise to get settled somewhere atleast two days before the new year, and don't try to move again until a couple of days after.

    Lesser holidays include May 1, the traditional socialist labor day, and September 2, Vietnam's national day.Around those times, trains and planes tend to be sold out, and accommodations at the beach or in Dalat arehard to find. Best to book far in advance.

    Regions

    North (Hanoi, Bac Ha, CaoBang, Cuc Phuong NationalPark, Dien Bien Phu, DongDang, Dong Hoi, Ha Long Bay,Haiphong, Lao Cai, Ninh Binh,Sapa, Tam Coc)harbors some of the mostmagnificent views of Vietnam as

    well as the capital city and thechance to visit indigenous hilltribes

    Central Coast (Cham Islands,Da Nang, Dong Ha, Hoi An,Hue, My Son, Na Meo, NhaTrang, Qui Nhon, Thanh Hoa,Vinh)the ancient city of Hue ( Hu ) is

    the home of the still recentVietnamese kings and in Hoi Anfeatures one of the nicest oldseacoast towns in Vietnam

    Central Highlands (Buon MaThuot, Dalat, Kontum, NgocHoi)lush forest covered hills featuringindigenous tribes and the

    occasional elephantSouth (Con Dao, Can Tho,Chau Doc , Ho Chi Minh City,Mui Ne, My Tho, Phan Thiet,

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    Map of Vietnam with regions colour-codedPhu Quoc, Vung Tau, Tay Ninh,Vinh Long,)the economic engine of Vietnam,

    built around Ho Chi Minh City but also covering the lush andlittle-visited Mekong Delta, therice basket of Vietnam

    Cities

    Hanoi (H N i) - the capitalHaiphong (H i Phng) - the "port city", a major port in north VietnamDalat ( Lt) - the largest city in the highlandsHo Chi Minh City (Thnh ph HCh Minh) - Vietnam's largest city and the economic centre of thesouth, formerly Saigon (Si Gn)Hoi An (H i An) - delightfully well-preserved ancient port, near the ruins of M S nHue (Hu) - former home of Vietnam's emperors

    Nha Trang - burgeoning beach resortPhan Thiet (Phan Thi t) - "the resort capital" with Mui Ne beach.Vinh - the major city in northern Vietnam with very nice Cua lo beach.

    Other destinations

    Con Dao (Cn o) - island off the Mekong DeltaCu Chi (C Chi) - site of the Cu Chi Tunnels

    Cuc Phuong National Park - home to some of Asia's rarest wildlife and the Muong hill tribeThe DMZHa Long Bay (V nh HLong) - famous for its unearthly sceneryKontum - relaxed little town providing access to a number of ethnic minority villagesMy Son - ancient Hindu ruins which are a a UNESCO World Heritage SiteTay Ninh (Ty Ninh) - main temple of the Cao iTam Coc (Tam C c) - un Ninh Binh province south of Hanoi with Ha Long Bay-like scenery

    Get in

    Visitors from the following countries do not require a visa and can stay for the following number of days.

    15 days: Denmark, Finland, Japan, Norway, South Korea, Sweden, Russia21 days: Philippines30 days: Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand

    All other nationalities will require a visa in advance to visit Vietnam.

    A single-entry tourist visa valid for 30 days costs US$35 (although exact fees vary depending on issuing

    country) and takes around 4-7 days to process; express visas take 2-3 days at twice the price. If purchasingyour visa from the Vietnamese embassy in London (http://www.vietnamembassy.org.uk/) , a 30-day single entryvisa will cost you 44 (59 for fast-track), while a 30 days multiple entry visa costs 70 (plus 8 postage if youneed it posted back to you). A 30-day visa can also be obtained from the Vietnamese consulate in Battambang,Cambodia, at a cost of US$35, with visas taking 2-3 days to process, although exact entry and exit points have

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    to be specified. In general, visas are now valid for all entry and exit points.

    May 2010 - Vietnam Embassy in Bangkok charges 1,800 baht (nearly $50 US!) for a 30 day single entry visa.They do not take US Dollars. Approx 3 days to process. Canadian Passport Holders.

    Some Vietnamese Embassies offer a "While you wait service" (May 2008), where a single entry visa can begained in 15 minutes. This service costs US$92, but is approved instantly. You are required to bring a valid

    passport, passport photo and cash payment (cards not accepted).

    A fairly convoluted visa on arrival process has recently been introduced, but this requires a prior application toHanoi and is generally intended mostly for groups and citizens of countries without Vietnamese embassies.

    Visa upon arrival can be received if you are coming from Laos right on the border control. It takes 10 to 20minutes and cost about $35 US for most nations (2009).

    This Visa on Arrival works fine, you get it quick after you paid for it (with credit card, 1 day), costs 18 US$then you pay still 26 US$ at the arrival for the stamp in the pass. Pre-approved letter with code for picking upvisa upon arrival Vietnam at the airports of Hanoi capital city, Ho Chi Minh or Saigon city and Danang city. If

    you come from Bangkok to Saigon you have to present this approval letter by the check-in, otherwise nocheck-in in BKK (Air Asia)!

    Vietnam has moved away from the old A4 carbon copy arrival forms. Recently, they have started to usearrival/departure cards which are very similar to those found in Cambodia, Indonesia and Singapore. Keep thedeparture portion of this just as safe as your passport, as you will have to produce it when leaving the country toavoid a fine.

    Depending on the present level of SARS, avian flu you may be subjected to a so-called health-check . There isno examination, though, but yet another form to fill in and, of course, another fee. If you can get hold of a

    handful of dong it is only 2000 dong per person, but they charge US$2 for the same "service" if you only havegreenbacks!

    By plane

    Vietnam has international airports at Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Da Nang. Direct flights are available fromAustralia, Cambodia, China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Laos, Malaysia, New Zealand,Philippines, Russia, Singapore, Brunei, South Korea, Thailand, Taiwan, Indonesia, Macau, Qatar, Turkey andthe United States. However, non-stop long-distance flights are limited and most visitors transit via Bangkok,Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia and Taipei.

    By train

    There are direct international train services from Nanning and Beijing in China to Hanoi. Most require a changeof trains at the border at Pingxiang/Dong Dang, but the Chinese-operated daily Nanning express (T871/MR2)runs through, although it still spends about four hours at the border for immigration.

    The Kunming-Hanoi line was shut down by landslides in 2002 and, as of 2009, remains closed. There are notrain links to Cambodia.

    By road

    Cambodia

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    There are at least four border crossings between Cambodia and Vietnam that can be used by foreigners. Theseinclude:

    Bavet - Moc BaiKaam Samnor - Vinh Xuong (in some guidebooks as Tonle Mekong. Near Chau Doc in Vietnam)Phnom Den - Tinh BienXa Xia, Vietnam/Prek Chak, Cambodia (Ha Tien crossing, Cambodian Visas not available)

    The Vietnamese consulate in Sihanoukville issues 30 day tourist visas on a same-day basis.

    China

    There are three border crossings between China and Vietnam that can be used by foreigners:

    Dongxing - Mong Cai ( by road; onward travel Mong Cai to Ha Long by sea or by road )Hekou - Lao Cai ( by road and/or rail, but no international passenger train services )Youyi Guan - Huu Nghi Quan (Friendship Pass - by road and/or rail )

    Laos

    There are at least six border crossings between Laos and Vietnam that can be used by foreigners.

    Be wary of catching local buses from Laos to Vietnam. Not only are they often crammed with cargo (coal andlive chickens, often underfoot) but many buses run in the middle of the night, stopping for several hours in order to wait for the border to open at 7am. Whilst waiting, you will be herded off the bus (for several hours) whereyou will be approached by pushy locals offering assistance in getting a Laos exit stamp in exchange for money(usually 5USD to more). If you bargain hard (tiring, at 4am) you can get the figure down to about 2USD. Themen will take your passports, which can be incredibly disconcerting, but will actually provide the service they

    promise. It is unclear whether you can just wait for the border to do this, I assume that these men are entirelysuperfluous. I recommend a VIP bus, which is of similar price (10k kip difference) from Savannakhet, at least.

    These include:

    Donsavanh - Lao BaoKaew Neua - Cau Treo (Keo Nua Pass)

    Nam CanTay Trang

    Get around

    By plane

    Flights are the fastest way to travel the distance of this long country; the trip from Hanoi to HCMC will takeabout 2 hours by plane.

    There are quite many flights connecting the two largest cities, Hanoi and HCMC, to major towns such as Da

    Nang, Hai Phong, Can Tho, Hue, Nha Trang, Da Lat, Phu Quoc. Most of these flights are cheap compared to North American or European standards. For example, a return connecting Hanoi to Da Nang will probably runaround $80 US (including all taxes).

    Domestic carriers are Vietnam Airlines [2] (http://www.vietnamair.com.vn/wps/portal/vn/welcome/) , Jetstar

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    Pacific [3] (http://www.jetstar.com/vn/en/index.aspx) . Indochina Airlines ceased operations as of November 2009. [4] (http://www.indochinaairlines.vn/?culture=en-US)

    By train

    Although more expensive than buses, trains are undoubtedly the most comfortable way to travel overland inVietnam. There is one major train line in Vietnam, the 1723-kilometer trunk between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh

    City, on which the Reunification Express runs. HCMC to Hanoi is more than 30 hours, and overnight hops between major destinations are usually possible, if not entirely convenient. It's a good way to see the countrysideand meet upper-middle class locals, but unless you are traveling in a sleeper car it is no more comfortable than

    buses.

    AC Soft or hard sleeper is recommended, and purchasing as early as possible is a good idea as popular berthsand routes are often bought out by tour companies and travel agents well before the departure time (hence beingtold the train is sold out at a station ticket window or popular tour company office does not mean there are notickets available--they've simply been bought by another reseller). Booking at the train station itself is generallythe safest way, just prepare on a piece of paper the destination, date, time, no. of pax and class. However,

    unsold tickets can often be bought last minute from people hanging around at the station--a train is rarely soldout for real, as the railway company will add cars when demand is high. Commissions on these tickets will dropaway as the departure time draws nearer.

    Be cautious when using a travel agent to purchase your train tickets, since there is nothing printed on the ticketsaying the class you are booked in. This results in a common scam with private travel agents where you will paythem to book a soft-sleeper ticket, they then book you a cheaper hard-sleeper ticket, and you don't knowyou've been scammed until you board the train and your berths are in the lower class. By then with the train onthe verge of departing it is too late to go back to the scamming agent to demand compensation.

    In addition, there are shorter routes from Hanoi leading northwest and northeast, with international crossings intoChina. One of the most popular of the shorter routes is the overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai (with busservice from Lao Cai to the tourist destination of Sapa).

    Always try to buy your tickets at least 3 days in advance, to avoid disappointment, especially during peak holiday season, during which you should try to book at least a week in advance.

    By bus

    Long-distance bus services connect most cities in Vietnam. Most depart early in the morning to accommodate

    traffic and late afternoon rains, or run overnight. It is important to note that average road speeds are typicallyquite slow, even when travelling between cities. For example a 276km journey from the Mekong Delta to HoChi Minh City by bus will likely take about 8 hours.

    Public Buses travel between the cities' bus stations. In bigger places, you often have to use local transport toget into the city center from there. Buses are generally in reasonable shape, and you have the chance to interactwith locals.

    Open Tour buses are run by a multitude of tour companies. They cater especially to tourists, offering ridiculouslow rates (Hanoi to HCMC: US$20-25) and door-to-door service to your desired hostel. You can break the

    ourney at any point and continue on a bus of the same company any time later, or simply buy tickets just for thestage you're willing to cover next. Note that if you're not planning to make more than 3-4 stops, it might becheaper to buy separate tickets as you go (ie Hanoi to Hue can be had for as little as US$5). Most hotels andguesthouses can book seats for any connection, although you're better to shop around at travel agents, as priceswill vary on any given ticket/bus company. Going to the bus company office may net you a commission-free

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    fare, but most major bus operators have fixed pricing policies, which can only be circumvented through a travelagent.

    Since tour companies charge very little, they do make commission on their stop-offs which are often at souvenir shops, where you do not have to buy; they always have toilets and drinks and water available for purchase. Theestimated time for a bus trip will not be accurate and may be an additional couple of hours sometimes, due tothe number of stop offs. Collecting the passengers at the start of the journey can also take quite a while too.Always be at least half an hour early to catch the bus. Try not to drink too much water, as rest stops, especiallyfor overnight buses, may be just somewhere where there are a lot of bushes.

    Vietnamese buses are made for Vietnamese people - bigger Westerners will be very uncomfortable, especiallyon overnight buses. Also, many Vietnamese are not used to riding on long-haul buses, and will sometimes getsick - not very pleasant if you are stuck on an overnight bus with several Vietnamese throwing up behind you.

    Even if you are sometimes bus-sick, it is advisable to book a sit at the middle rather than at the front of the bus.First, you will avoid viewing directly the short-sighted risks the driver is taking on the way. Second, you willsomewhat escape the loud noise of unceasing honkings (each time the bus passes another vehicle, that is aboutevery 10 seconds).

    Although the bus company will usually be happy to collect you at your hotel or guest house, boarding at thecompany office will guarantee a choice of seats and you'll avoid getting stuck at the back or unable to sit next toyour travelling companions. The offices are generally located in or near the tourist area of town, and a shortwalk might make your trip that much more pleasant.

    A scam that you may encounter is that after arriving at your location, the guides will ask you whether you have booked a hotel. Even though you haven't, say that you have and prepare the name of a hotel. If you say youhave not booked one, they will charter a taxi for you and probably drop you at a hotel which they can collectcommission. If you decide not to stay, things may get a little ugly, as they will demand that you pay the taxi fare,which they may quote as several times the actual fare for a ten minute ride.

    WARNING - Be very careful of your possessions on the overnight bus, people (including bus employees) have been known to look through passengers bag's and take expensive items such as iPods and phones and sell themon for profit. If you are travelling with an iPod DO NOT FALL ASLEEP WITH IT IN YOUR EAR, as thechances are it will be nowhere to be found in the morning. Simply get a padlock for your hand luggage and lock everything up in there before you go to sleep.

    By car

    International driving licenses are not accepted in Vietnam. The concept of renting a car to drive yourself isalmost non-existent, and when Vietnamese speak of renting a car they always mean hiring a car with a driver.(After a short time on local roads with their crazy traffic, you will be glad you left the driving to a professional.)Since few Vietnamese own cars, they have frequent occasion to hire vehicles for family outings, specialoccasions, etc., and a thriving industry exists to serve that need. Vietnamese can easily charter anything from asmall car to a 32-seat bus, for one day or several. Tourists can tap into that market indirectly by way of hotelsand tour agents found in every tourist area. Additionally, international car brands have started to surface. BudgetCar Rental, one of the largest car rental companies in the world, now offers chauffeur driven services inVietnam. Hiring a small car for a day trip returning to the point of origin costs around US$60 for eight hours

    (though the price changes with the cost of gas). (If you shop around and bargain hard for the lowest possible price, you will probably get an older, more beat-up car. If you are paying more than bare minimum, it's worthasking what sort of car it will be, and holding out for something comfortable.) Few drivers speak any English, somake sure you tell the hotel/agent exactly where you want to go, and have that communicated to the driver.

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    It's also possible to hire a car and driver for inter-city travel, at somewhat higher cost. A small car from Saigonto the beach resort of Mui Ne, a 4- or 5-hour trip depending on traffic, costs about US$70, and Dalat to Mui

    Ne about US$90. Long distance travel by car may be a good choice for several people traveling together, as it provides a flexible schedule and flexible access to remote sites. Keep in mind that long-distance road travel inVietnam by whatever means (bus or car) is slow, with average speed less than 50 km/hour. Highway 1, thenorth-south backbone of the country, is a two-lane road with very heavy truck and bus traffic.

    Generally speaking, describing Vietnamese driving habits as atrocious would be an understatement. Roadcourtesy is non-existent and drivers generally do not check their blind spot or wing mirrors. Vietnamese driversalso tend to use their horn very often to get motorcyclists out of their way. In addition, most roads do not havelane markings and even on those that do, drivers generally ignore the lane markings. As such, driving yourself inVietnam is not recommended and you should leave your transportation needs in the hands of professionals.

    By cycle

    Adventurous travelers may wish to see Vietnam by motorcycle or bicycle. Several adventure travel tours provide package tours with equipment. Most of the population gets around on two wheels, so it's an excellent

    way to get closer to the people, as well as off the beaten path.Bicycles can be rented cheaply in many cities, and are often a great way of covering larger distances. Goodspots for cycling are Dalat, Hoi An and Hue. On the other hand, attempting to cycle in Hanoi or HCMC isvirtually suicide without proper experience of traffic rules (or lack thereof.)

    In cities like Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, parking bicycles on the sidewalks is not allowed, and you'll have togo to a pay parking lot. 2000 dong per bike.

    By motorcycle taxi

    The xe m (literally 'hugging vehicle') is a common mode of transport for Vietnamese as well as tourists. Theyare widely available and reasonably cheap -- about 10,000 dong for a 10 minute trip, which should get youanywhere within the city center. Walk the city streets, and every couple of minutes a guy will flag your attentionand say "You !! MotoBike?" Longer trips to outlying areas can be negotiated for 20-25,000 dong. Alwaysagree on the fare before starting your trip. As with most things, a tourist will often be quoted an above-market

    price initially, and you need to be firm. If quoted anything over 10,000 dong for a short trip, remind the driver that you could take an air-con taxi for 15,000 so forget it. Occasionally drivers will demand more than thenegotiated price at the end, so it's best to have exact change handy. Then you can pay the agreed amount andwalk away, end of discussion.

    Taxi-motorbikes, known as xe m are available everywhere and they will constantly harass you offering you aride (no matter if the drivers speak English or not). It's advisable not to pick them since they will always makeyou pay much more than to locals and they will surely take you around for hours before getting you to the pointyou requested. In some cases they will take you wherever they want (tourist attractions or shops you didn'trequest to go) and sometimes they will wait for you to come back (even if you don't want them to wait) and willask you for more money for having been waiting. Even if you speak some Vietnamese, this is not useful, sincethey will cheat you anyway or they will act as if they don't understand even if they do.

    By motorcycle

    The 110-cc motorbike is the preferred mode of transport for the Vietnamese masses, and the large cities swarmwith them. It's common to see whole families of four cruising along on a single motorbike. In most places wheretourists go, you can easily rent your own, with prices ranging from 100,000 to 160,000 dong per day. Desk clerks at small hotels often run a side business renting motorbikes to guests, or have a friend or relative who

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    does. Tour booths can usually do the same. In small towns and beach resorts where traffic is light, e.g PhoQuoc, it's a delightful way to get around and see the sights, and much cheaper than taxis if you make severalstops or travel any distance. Roads are usually decent, though it's advisable not to ride too fast and always keepan eye on the road for the occasional pothole.

    Riding in the big cities, especially Ho Chi Minh City, is a very different matter, and not advisable unless you arean experienced rider with a very cool head. Traffic is intense and chaotic, with a long list of unwritten rules thatdon't resemble traffic laws anywhere else. "Right of way" is a nearly unknown concept. Riding in HCMC is likefinding yourself in the middle of a 3-D video game where anything can come at you from any direction, and youonly have one life. Expats who brave the traffic at all typically have an apprenticeship of a few weeks or monthsriding on the back of others' motorbikes to learn the ways of the traffic, before attempting to ride themselves.Extreme caution is advised for short-term visitors.

    Riding long distance in the countryside can also be harrowing depending on the route you take. Major roads between cities tend to be narrow despite being major, and full of tour buses hell-bent on speed, passing slowtrucks where maybe they shouldn't have tried, and leaving not much room at the edge for motorbikes.

    Two main categories of motorbike are available to rent: scooters (automatic transmission); and four-speedmotorbikes, the gears of which you shift with your left foot. The ubiquitous Honda Super Cub is a common 4-speed bike that has a semi-automatic gearbox i.e. no clutch so is relatively easy to ride. Other models may befully manual and therefore you must also operate the clutch using your left hand - this takes a lot of skill and it'sall too easy to over-rev and pull a wheelie or stall the engine - if you end up with such a bike then practicereleasing the clutch gently before hitting the roads! Rental agents tend to steer foreigners toward scooters if available, on the (plausible) assumption that they don't know how to ride motorbikes that require shifting gears.Motorcycles of 175cc and above are only legal to ride if you make a connection with a Vietnamese motorcycleclub.

    Most places you would want to stop have parking attendants who will issue you a numbered tag and watch over your bike. Sometimes these parking operations are overseen by the establishment you are visiting, andsometimes they are free-lance operations set up in places where a lot of people go. You will usually see rows of

    bikes lined up parked. Depending on circumstance, you might park the bike yourself, or just put it in neutral andlet the staff position it. In all but rare cases you keep the key. Parking is sometimes free at restaurants and cafes(look for "giu xe mien phi"). Elsewhere, fees range from 2,000 to 5,000 dong.

    Traffic police in the cities pull over lots of locals (often for reasons that are hard to discern), but conventionalwisdom has it that they rarely bother foreigners due to the language barrier. Obeying the traffic laws is advisableust to be sure. Licenses (to operate motorbikes) are required, although many people have been known to drive

    without them. Helmets are also required by law as from the December 15th, 2007, if you don't have it already,ask your rental agent to provide them. You should also check that your travel insurance covers you for anyaccidents that occur, particularly if you do not have a motorcycle license in your own country.

    By cyclo

    While slowly being supplanted by motorbikes, cyclo pedicabs stillroam the streets of Vietnam's cities and towns. They are especiallycommon in scenic smaller, less busy cities like Hue, where it's

    pleasant to cruise slowly along taking in the sights. Though the ride

    will be slow, hot and sometimes dangerous, you'll generally needto pay more than for a motorbike for the equivalent distance. Onthe plus side, some drivers (particularly in the South) are veryfriendly and happy to give you a running commentary on the sights.Cyclo drivers are notoriously mercenary and will always ask for a

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    Cyclo in Huehigh price to start with. Sometimes they will also demand morethan the agreed price at the end. (Japanese tourists, especiallywomen, are most often targeted with this scam since they are moreresponsive to the threat that the driver will call the police and make trouble for them if they don't pay asdemanded.) A reasonable price is about 20,000 dong for up to 2 km, and if the driver disagrees, simply walk away. (You won't get far before that driver or another takes your offer.) Prices for a sight-seeing circuit withintermediate stops are more complex to negotiate and more subject to conflict at the end. If you plan to stop

    somewhere for any length of time, it's best to settle up with the driver, make no promises, and start fresh later.To avoid trouble, it's also best to have exact change for the amount you agreed to pay, so if the driver tries torevise the deal, you can just lay your cash on the seat and leave.

    By boat

    You will be missing a big part of Vietnamese life if you do not spend some time on a boat. Do be careful though because many boats are although seaworthy are not designed to first world standards. An example is the ferryfrom Phu Quoc to the mainland. This ferry has one tiny entrance for all passengers to board. When full, which itusually is there are approximatly 200 people on board. In the event of an accident, the chance of everyone

    getting out of the boat fast enough would be very small. The idea of an emergency exit also does not exist there.

    Tour boats can be chartered for around US$20 for a day's tour; but beware of safety issues if you charter a boat, make sure the boat is registered for carrying Tourists and has enough lifejackets and other safetyequipment on board. Or you can book a tour through a tour company; but be aware that in Vietnam most Tour Agents charge whatever markup they want and therefore the tourist is often paying margins of 30-40%! and the

    boat owner and operator (of anything from a van to a boat etc.) are paid very little of the total amount!

    Ha Long Bay is a famous destination for one- to three-day boat trips among its scenic limestone islands.Problem is that all the boats seem to visit the same places - and with high prices and poor quality boats and

    service real value is hard to come by! Seafood is about the same price as Europe in some places!

    Dozens of small family-operated boats ply the river in Hue taking visitors to the imperial tombs southwest of thecity. This journey is long because the boats are slow taking about 4 hours or so to make the journey in onedirection.

    Snorkel - fishing - lunch trips are available from Nha Trang, Hoi An, and Phu Quoc to nearby islands. In Centra lVietnam North East monsoon season limits many sea boat tours during the months September - February; other

    parts of Vietnam seem less affected.

    A 90-minute hydrofoil boat operates from Saigon to the seaside resort of Vung Tau for about 120,000 dongeach way -- the fastest way to reach the beach from the city.

    Rivers tours are perhaps the most interesting. A day-long boat trip forms the core of almost any tour of theMekong region.

    Talk

    Like Thai and Mandarin, Vietnamese is a tonal language that usesa change in pitch to inflict different meanings. While it is very

    different from Western languages, a traveler may be surprised tolearn that the basic grammar is pretty simple. Verbs are staticregardless of the past or future and parts of speech are prettystraightforward. The major difficulties lay on tones and certainsounds.

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    Tomb of Khai Dinh, Hue

    Vietnamese consists of 4 main dialects: the northern dialect spokenaround Hanoi, the north-central dialect spoken around Vinh, thecentral dialect spoken around Hue, and the southern dialect spoken around Ho Chi Minh City.

    While the Hanoi dialect is taken as the 'standard' and widely used in broadcasting, there is no de facto standardin the education system. Northerners naturally think that southern accent is for 'hai lua' (countrymen) and willalways recommend you to be stick to the northern accent, but the choice of accents should depend on whereyou plan to live. For working in Saigon, the capital of economy, south accent is what you will hear every day.

    For learners, the written latin alphabet is a relief. Unlike English, Vietnamese phonetics are accurate at reflectingtrue pronunciations, although their sounds on certain alphabets are different or even don't exist in English.

    Vietnamese lexicons are heavily influenced by the Chinese languages. Some words are loanwords from Chinalike hotel (khach San), children (nhi d ng), communist party (dang cong san), some are formed based onChinese characters (roots), like representative (dai dien) or bird flu (cum ga). The knowledge on the Chineselanguage will make it much easier to learn Vietnamese. Vietnamese is also full of loanwords from French andEnglish from more recent times.

    Although the Vietnamese people do appreciate any effort to learn their language, most seldom experienceforeign accents. Learners may find it frustrating that no one can understand what they try to say. Staff in hoteland kids tend to have a more tolerant ear to foreign accents and it is not unheard of for a kid to effectively helptranslate your 'Vietnamese' into authentic Vietnamese for adults.

    Besides Vietnamese, Ho Chi Minh City is home to a sizeable ethnic Chinese community, many of whom speak Cantonese. The more remote parts of the country are also home to many ethnic minorities who speak variouslanguages belonging to the Mon-Khmer, Tai-Kadai and Austronesian language families.

    As English is the most popular foreign language taught in Vietnamese schools, many young people have a basicgrasp of English but proficiency is generally poor. However, most hotel and airline staff will know enoughEnglish to communicate. Directional signs are generally bilingual in both Vietnamese and English.

    Despite Indochina's colonial history in which French was the medium of education, French is basically adysfunctional language in Vietnam and aside from a few educated elite among the elderly, is much less usefulthan English when trying to communicate with locals.

    See

    Do

    Motorbike adventure tours - There are many tour operators which provide customized motorbike tours aroundthe remote regions of Vietnam. Given that motorbikes are the main mode of transport in Vietnam, this can be a

    particularly authentic means of traveling through the country and visiting those off-the-beaten-track places. Mostoperators provide all-inclusive accommodation, petrol, helmets, drivers if necessary and entry tickets to local

    places of interest. They usually speak good English or French and offer customised tours if desired.

    BuyThe national currency is the dong (ng, VND ), which has stabilized in the past few years but is difficult to findor exchange outside Vietnam. Bills are available in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, 20000,50000, 100000, 200000 and 500000 dong. In 2003, coins were also introduced in denominations of 200, 500,

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    1000, 2000 and 5000 dong.

    U.S. dollars are widely accepted, the standard exchange rate for small quantities being 19000 dong to US$1;this is some 5% below the bank rate, so it's usually better to pay in dong. Inflation in Vietnam has beenskyrocketing as a result of the world financial crisis, so expect the rate of dong-dollar as well as other currenciesto go up in 2009/2010. Also note that dollar bills in less than perfect condition may be rejected. US $2 bills(especially those printed in the 1970's) are considered lucky in Vietnam and are worth more than $2. Theymake a good tip/gift, and many Vietnamese will keep them in their wallet for luck. US$50 and US$100 notesget a higher exchange rate than notes of lower denominations. Note that all gold shops will exchange themajority of hard currencies (Sterling, Yen, Swiss Francs, Euro etc.) at reasonable rates. Be advised that travelagencies (like StaTravel in Saigon) will rip you off offering you a very low rate.

    In addition to US dollars many vietnamese informal shops(which is pretty much all of them) will accept almostany kind of currency in order to make a sale, so it won't hurt to keep some of your home currency handy aswell.

    When it comes to foreign tourists, you might opt for US$ cash as the basic staple of your money belt, but bear in mind that it is always wise not to rely on just one leg when walking.

    Traveller cheques of well known companies are widely accepted, but usually a small fee is charged. Feesmight also be the only thing that would keep you from getting cash advances on visa- or mastercard at most

    banks. Through both ways you can also get hold of U.S. dollars, though there will be even higher fees.

    There are mentions in some popular travel books about Vietcombank not charging any commission fees to cashAmex travelers cheques. However, this is not true anymore.

    ATMs are getting more and more common and can be found in most bigger cities and every tourist destination.They will accept a selection of credit and bank-cards, including Visa, Mastercard, Maestro or Cirrus andseveral other systems. Not every machine will like your particular card, but "Vietcombank-ATMs" are knownfor the broadest variety. The amount of your withdrawal may not exceed 2,000,000 dong in one transactionwith typically an additional 20,000 dong charge. ANZ bank allows withdrawals of 15,000,000 dong per day.ANZ bank ATM's allow up to 4,000,000 dong per transaction with 40,000 dong charge. BIDV bank ATM'sallow up to 3,000,000 dong per transaction with 20,000 dong charge. BIDV bank ATM's are generally the

    best value ATM's to use for foreigners if taking out the maximum 3,000,000 dong each time. BIDV banks arefound all over Vietnam whereas ANZ banks are found only in Hanoi and Saigon.

    There are branches of money transfer companies like Western Union, but this is always one of the moreexpensive ways to get money.

    On most land borders connecting to Cambodia, China, and Laos there are freelance moneychangers to takecare of your financial leftovers, but be assured they'll get the better of you if you don't know the going rate.

    Hassle and Bargain

    Overcharging has long been an issue in Vietnam tourism. It can happen anywhere on anything from an hotelroom, a ride on taxi, coffee, meal, clothing, basic grocery stuff. Your coffee suddenly becomes 100% moreexpensive and a restaurant may present you an English menu with inflated prices. A friendly local who spent 30minutes talking with you may also feel like overcharging you on anything.

    Vietnamese holds a diverse view on this issue but in general it is more common in Vietnam than other neighbouring countries to see it socially acceptable to overcharge foreigners. They may argue inflated prices arestill cheap and they may blame on the cheap cost of living which attracts a lot of backpackers with barebone

    budgets. According to this school of thoughts, if tourists complain about it, it's because they're stingy. Rich

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    Gi cu n fresh spring rolls, cao l unoodles (a specialty of Hoi An), n c

    m m dipping sauce and local beer

    tourists from developed countries should not have a problem being overcharged.

    The good news is that standard price is much more common than early 90s. You will absolutely spoil your travelif you assume that everyone is cheating you, just try to be smart. In a restaurant, learn some common dish namesin Vietnamese, insist that you need to read Vietnamese menu, and compare it. If owners argue that the portionof dishes in the English menu is different, it's definitely a scam and move to other places. Learning someVietnamese numbers and try to see how much local pays a vendor. Also try basic bargaining tactic: Think howmuch it is back home, ask for big discount and walk away, pretending that the price isn't right. Many productstend to be standardized and compare more.

    Costs

    Costs for a month's stay can start from a backpacking US$250-500 Using basic rooms, local food and open bus transportation can keep it very close to the US$250 per month

    Tipping is not expected in Vietnam, with the exception of bellhops in high end hotels. In any case, the pricequoted to you is often many times what locals will pay, so tipping can be considered unnecessary in most

    circumstances.

    Eat

    Food sits at the very epicentre of Vietnamese culture: everysignificant holiday on the Vietnamese cultural calendar, all theimportant milestones in a Vietnamese person's life, and indeed,most of the important day-to-day social events and interactions -food plays a central role in each. Special dishes are prepared andserved with great care for every birth, marriage and death, and theanniversaries of ancestors' deaths. More business deals are struck over dinner tables than over boardroom tables, and when friendsget together, they eat together. Preparing food and eating together remains the focus of family life.

    Vietnamese cuisine varies slightly from region to region, with manyregions having their own specialities. Generally, northernVietnamese cuisine is known for being bland while southernVietnamese cuisine is known for being spicy.

    At the same time, the Vietnamese are surprisingly modest about their cuisine. (And old proverb/joke says that afortunate man has a Western (French) house, Japanese wife, and Chinese chef.) High-end restaurants tend toserve "Asian-fusion" cuisine, with elements of Thai, Japanese, and Chinese mixed in. The most authenticVietnamese food is found at street side "restaurants" (A collection of plastic outdoor furniture placed on thefootpath), with most walk-in restaurants being mainly for tourists. Definite regional styles exist -- northern,central, and southern, each with unique dishes. Central style is perhaps the most celebrated, with dishes such asmi quang (wheat noodles with herbs, pork, and shrimp), banh canh cua (crab soup with thick rice noodles) and

    bun bo Hue (beef soup with herbs and noodles).

    Many Vietnamese dishes are flavored with fish sauce (n c m m), which smells and tastes like anchovies(quite salty and fishy) straight from the bottle, but blends into food very well. (Try taking home a bottle of fishsauce, and using it instead of salt in almost any savory dish -- you will be pleasantly surprised with the results.)Fish sauce is also mixed with lime juice, sugar, water, and spices to form a tasty dip/condiment called n cch m, served on the table with most meals. Vegetables, herbs and spices, notably Vietnamese coriander or

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    Bnh m : French baguettestuffed with pt , herbs and

    pickles

    cilantro ( rau mi or rau mg ), mint ( rau r m) and basil ( rau hng ), accompany almost every dish and helpmake Vietnamese food much lighter and more aromatic than the cuisine of its neighboring countries, especiallyChina.

    Vietnam's national dish is ph , a broth soup with beef or chicken and rice noodles (a form of rice linguini or fettuccini). Ph is normally served with plates of fresh herbs(usually including Asian basil), cut limes, hot chilisand and scalded bean sprouts which you can add in according to your taste, along with chili paste, chili sauce,and sweet soybean sauce. Ph b , the classic form of ph , is made with beef broth that is often simmered for many hours and may include one or more kinds of beef (skirt, flank, tripe, etc.). Ph g is the same idea, butwith chicken broth and chicken meat. Ph is the original Vietnamese fast food, which locals grab for a quick meal. Most ph places specialize in ph and can serve you a bowls as fast as you could get a Big Mac. It'savailable at any time of the day, but locals eat it most often for breakfast. Famous ph restaurants can be foundin Hanoi. Generally speaking, the ph served at roadside stalls tends to be cheaper and taste better than thoseserved in fancier restaurants.

    Streetside eateries in Vietnam typically advertise ph and c m. Though c m literally means rice, the sign meansthe restaurant serves a plate of rice accompanied with fish or meat and vegetables. Though they may look filthy,streetside eateries are generally safe so long as you avoid undercooked food.

    In rural and regional areas it is usually safest to eat the locally grown types of food as these are usually boughteach day from the market. It is not uncommon, that after you have ordered your meal a young child of the familywill be seen running out the back towards the nearest market to purchase the items.

    Most restaurants/cafes in Vietnam will have a bewildering variety of food available. It is very common for menusto be up to 10-15 pages. These will inlcude all types of vietnamese food, plus some token western food,

    possibly some chinese and maybe a pad thai as well. It is generally best to stick with the specialty of the area asthis food will be the freshest and also the best prepared.

    Coffee , baguettes , and pastries were originally introduced by the Frenchcolonials, but all three have been localized and remain popular contemporaryaspects of Vietnamese cuisine. More on c ph below, but coffee shops thatalso serve light fare can be found in almost village and on multiple streetcorners in the bigger cities. Bnh m Hanoi are French bread sandwiches :freshly baked white bread baguettes filled with grilled meats or liver or pork

    pt, plus fresh herbs and vegetables. Most pastry shops serve a variety of sweets and quick foods, and are now owned by Vietnamese.

    If you like seafood , you may find heaven in Vietnam. The ultimate seafoodexperience is traveling to a seaside village or beach resort area in the southto try the local seafood restaurants that often serve shrimp, crab, and locally-caught fish. Follow the locals to a good restaurant: the food will still be swimming when you order it, it will bewell-prepared, very affordable by Western standards, and often served in friendly surroundings with spectacular views.

    Drink

    Watch out for ice in drinks. Factory-made ice is generally safe, but anything else can be suspect.

    Pubs/bars

    Drinking in a vietnamese bar is a great experience. One of the interesting things is that during the day, it is almostimpossible to see a bar anywhere. Once the sun goes down though, dozens seem to appear out of nowhere on

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    Wikitravel founder Evan quaffing bia hoiin Hoi An

    the streets.

    Beer

    Don't miss out on bia h i, (literally "gas beer"), or draught beermade daily. It's available throughout Vietnam, mostly from small

    bars on street corners. Bia hoi bars will give you the opportunity to

    relax drinking in a typical Vietnamese bar surrounded by the hustleand bustle of everyday life. Every traveler can easily find these bars to experience what the locals are enjoying.

    The beer is brewed daily and each bar gets a fresh batch deliveredevery day in plastic jugs. It's a very light (3% alcohol) refreshinglager at a fraction of the cost of draft or bottled beer in theWestern-style bars. Bia hoi is not always made in sanitaryconditions and its making is not monitored by any health agency.

    The most popular beer (draft, bottle or can) among theVietnamese is Tiger . 333 , pronounced "ba-ba-ba" is a local brand, but it's somewhat bland; for a bit moreflavor, look for Bia Saigon in the green bottle and a bigger bottle than Bia Saigon Special. Bia Saigon is alsoavailable as little stronger export version. Bire Larue is also good, and you can find local brands in everylarger city.

    It's regular practise for beer in Vietnam to be drunk over ice. This means that the cans or bottles need not bechilled. If you are drinking with Vietnamese people it is considered polite to top up their beer/ice before re-fillingyour own drink.

    Wine and liquorVietnamese "ruou de" or rice alcohol ( ruou means alcohol) is served in tiny porcelain cups often with candiedfruit or pickles. It's commonly served to male guests and visitors. Vietnamese women don't drink much alcohol,well at least in public. It's not recommended for tourists.

    Dating back to French colonial times, Vietnam adopted a tradition of viticulture. Dalat is the center of thewinelands, and you can get extremely good red and white wine for about $2-3US, however this is very hard tofind. Most wine is Australian that is served in restaurants and you will be charged Australian prices as wellmaking wine comparitively quite expensive compared to drinking beer or spirits.

    Coconut wine - R u da - ruou dua : This is special VietNam wine. This wine is made by traditional materialand coconut form natural. Copra of coconut can purify Aldhyt in rice wine which cause your headache and tied.You feel free to drink a health to somebody.

    Soft drinks

    Coconut water is a favorite in the hot southern part of the country. n c ma , or sugar cane juice , is servedfrom distinctive metal carts with a crank-powered sugar cane stalk crushers that release the juice. Another thirst-quencher is the fabulous sinh t , a selection of sliced fresh fruit in a big glass, combined with crushed ice,

    sweetened condensed milk and coconut milk. You can also have it blended in a mixer.

    Coffee

    Another popular drink among locals and tourists alike is the coffee (c ph ). Be sure to ask for the local

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    Vietnamese coffee instead of those imported from France or Italy, as it has a unique taste and is often of higher quality than the imported varieties despite the lower prices.

    Do be careful when drinking locally prepared coffee as the locals tend to drink it incredibly strong with about 4teaspoons of sugar per cup. As milk is hard to come by outside of the tourist hotels, it is also often served black or with sweetened condensed milk. Definitely an aquired taste.

    SleepLodging is not an issue in Vietnam, even if you're traveling on a pretty tight budget. Hotels in Vietnam range fromscruffy US$4-a-night (Per couple) backpacking hostels to world-class resorts, both in the city and in popular rural destinations. Even backpacking hostels and hotels are by far cleaner and nicer than in neighbouringcountries (Cambodia, Thailand, Laos), and even cheap US$4-6 per couple hotels often supply very cleanrooms with towels, clean white sheets, disposable toothbrush and so on. Service in a lot of the more inexpensivehotels is actually quite good (since the fares that a person pays per night could equal a Vietnamese national'smonthly pay), although modern amenities like television and room service in some cases are hard to come by.Like many hotels, there are often drinks and snacks in the mini-refrigerators in Vietnamese hotels; but these are

    horribly overpriced and you would be much better off buying these items on the street. Adequate plumbing is a problem in some hotels.

    It is a legal requirement for all hotels to register any forigners that stay the night with the local police. For thisreason they will always ask for you passport when you check in. The process will usually only take a fewminutes after which they will return your passport. If the place looks dodgy then ask that they register you whileyou wait and take your passport with you afterwards. However very few people have had a problem with thisas it is much of an routine across the country.

    Many hotels in the larger cities, mostly Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, have very good high-speed Internet

    access; but there is a fee (3000-15000 dong/hour) to use the computers in some cases.

    The more high-end hotels have a multitude of free/low cost amenities; such as elaborate buffets with localcuisine, spa treatments, local sightseeing packages, etc.

    Homestay accommodation is easily booked through travel agents. However, some tourists are disappointed tolearn that the "homestay" they booked is really a commercial hotel.

    Learn

    If you want to meet local people, stop by a school. In Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon), visit the AmericanLanguage School, where you'll be welcomed enthusiastically and invited to go into a class and say hi. You'll feellike a rock star.

    The Vietnamese love to meet new people, and teachers welcome the opportunity for their students to meetforeigners.

    An excellent novel set in modern-day Vietnam is "Dragon House" by John Shors. Dragon House is the story of two Americans who travel to Vietnam to open a center to house and educate Vietnamese street children.

    Former BBC reporter in Hanoi, Bill Hayton, has written a good introduction to most aspects of life in Vietnam -the economy, politics, social life etc. It's called Vietnam: rising dragon and was published in May 2010.

    Work

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    You can volunteer as an English teacher through Travel to Teach or other volunteering organizations.

    Stay safe

    Crime

    While many safety warnings in travel guide book are no more than scaremongering, Vietnam is really a placeworth more precaution. Violent crime towards foreigners remains low, pickpockets and motorbike snatchinghas found their home especially in Ho Chi Minh City. Thieves on motorbikes are ready to snatch bags, mobile

    phone, camera, jewelery of pedestrians and other motorbike drivers. Avoid dangling your bags along trafficroads. Talking to your mobile phone next to car road and putting your bag on the front basket of a motorbikewill tempt a robber. Pham Ngu Lao is the buffet place for all first witness accounts and all veterans seem to havecertain experience on it. It could happen days and night, in a crowded road with hundreds of drivers. Localssuggest that they won't kill you but will take all your money. It is true as long as you don't hold your belongingstoo tight. Reports that a foreign tourist got crashed to death when she tried to drag back what was robbed has

    been heard.

    Also infamously common are thefts on popular beaches. Never leave your bag unattended on beaches.

    In hotel rooms, including five star ones, reports that belongings are stolen have been heard occasionally. There isno need to be overly paranoid because most tourists do not get hurt, though basic precautions are definitelyneeded.

    Corruption

    Corruption is a big problem in Vietnam and locals are convinced that the police are not to be trusted. For

    motorcycle driver, police officer may stop you for any reasons including missing insurance papers or drivinglicense, fine you around $20 for each offense (the average traffic fine should only be about $1-$5). Remember to stand your ground and all officers are required to write all traffic violations in their notebook and give your areceipt and pay to the station (not the officer). If you have a cell phone, threaten to call your embassy and hemay back down. You might though just find it easier to pay the fine and get on your way.

    Immigration officers are known to take bribes. During the early Doi Moi (the reform in 90s), bribes could be afew US dollar, a few packs of 555 cigarette. Today although officers still seem to feel okay at taking it, it isabsolutely risk-free and acceptable if you don't bribe.

    ProstitutionProstitution is illegal in Vietnam and the age of consent is 18. Vietnam has laws on the books with penalties upto 20-40 years in prison for sexually exploiting women and children, and several other countries have laws thatallow them to prosecute their own citizens who travel abroad to engage in sex with children.

    Scam

    Most scams in Vietnam are involved in transportation, hotel prices and two-menu system practiced by somerestaurants.

    Hotel owners may tell you the room price is VND200,000. When checking out, they insist that the price isUS$20, charging you almost a double. Another trick is to tell customers a "room" is a few dollar, but on theother day, that price is for a fan room only and it's another price for an air-con room. Staff of legitimate hotelsshould never feel bothered to receive payment from a guest when they check in. Watch out if they insist that you

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    should pay when you check out.

    Some restaurants are known to have two menus for local people and foreigners. The only way to deal with it isto learn a few Vietnamese phrases and insist that you can only read the Vietnamese menu. If they feel hesitatedto show you the local one, you better walk away.

    Many taxi drivers in Sai Gon and Ha Noi intall rigged meters, end up charging 2 to 5 times more. The best wayto avoid this is just taking taxi from reputable companies such as Mai Linh, Vinasun, and Saigon Tourist in SaiGon and Mai Linh and Ha Noi Tourist for Ha Noi. Having a clear agreement on price with the driver beforegetting into his taxi is also recommended.

    Many Taxi drivers in Sai Gon and Ha Noi try to overcharge thin-faced, just-arrived, and gullible travelers. Youshould consult some guidebooks and travel forums to prepare yourself for those petty scams and to learn moreabout how to avoid them.

    Taxi and cyclo drivers may claim that cannot make change when accepting payment for an agreed-upon fair.The best way to handle this is to either carry smaller bills or be ready to stand your ground. Generally the driver is only trying to get an extra dollar or so by rounding the fare up, but to prevent this scam from becoming more

    popular it is advised to stay calm and firm about the price.

    When you meet an over-friendly cyclo driver who says, "never mind how much you would pay" or "you can paywhatever you like at the end of the trip". He even tries to show you his book of comments from internationaltourists. This kind of driver has to be a scammer. If you still want to use his service you should make it clear about the agreed price and won't pay more than that.

    Traffic

    The first discovery for many tourists who just arrive in Vietnam is that they need to learn how to cross a road allover again. You may see a tourist standing on the road for 5 minutes without knowing how to cross it. Traffic inVietnam is a nightmare. Back home, you may never witness the moment of crash, seeing injured victims lying onthe road, or hearing the BANG sound. Staying in Vietnam for more than a month, you will have fair chance of experiencing all these.

    Roads are packed. Some intersections in main cities (Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City) have traffic lights patrolled by police, most are either non-functional or ignored.

    To cross the road, don't try to avoid the cars, let them avoid you. Step a little forward, a little more, and you willsee motorcycle drivers to slow down a bit, or go to another way. Make your pace and path predictable to other drivers. Don't turn your speed or direction suddenly. Then move forward until you hit your destination.

    The simplest way, if available, is to follow a local, stand next to them in the opposite side of the traffic (if you gethit, he will get it first) and he will give you the best chance of crossing a road.

    If you are injured, don't expect that local people are willing to help for even calling an ambulance because it isnot free. Make sure you tell local clearly that you will pay the ambulance fee. Hospitals will also not accept your admission unless you prove that you can pay the bill.

    Highways are also risky with an average of 30 deaths a day and some locals will not even venture on them if not

    in a big vehicle (car or bus). Taking a bicycle or motocycle on highways is an adventure for risk takers, definitelynot for a family with children.

    Nightlife

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    Petty crime in night clubs can happen. Avoid quarreling with local people because drunken Vietnamese can beviolent to foreigners, especially when there are girls around him. Don't leave your belongings unattended. Clubsare full of prostitutes looking for their admirers but be aware that they may also take your wallet and mobile

    phones away. Walking very late by yourself on the streets in the tourist area is safe, but you shouldn't let anylocal girls getting into conversation with you. Otherwise, they will touch you, sweet talk you, and then stealsomething from you without you knowing it at that moment.

    WildlifeMuch of Vietnam's ecology has been severely damaged and very little wildlife remains, let alone anythingdangerous to humans. Venomous snakes (such as Cobras) may still be common in rural areas but virtuallyeverything else has either gone extinct or exist in such small numbers that the chances of even seeing them areremote. Tigers may exist in very small numbers in remote areas, but this is yet to be proven. Saltwater crocodiles once thrived in southern Vietnam but have been locally extinct for at least 20 years.

    Stay healthy

    Tropical diseases such as malaria, dengue fever and Japanese encephalitis are endemic in rural Vietnam. Malariaisn't as much a concern in the bigger cities such as Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi, but always remember to takemosquito liquid repellent with you. It may be very useful, especially in the countryside and crowdedneighborhoods.

    Thanks to much improved hygiene conditions in recent years, food sold in street vendors and restaurants,including blended ice drink, is mostly safe. General precaution is just enough.

    Respect

    Souvenir shops in Vietnam sell lots of T-shirts with the red flag and portraits of "Uncle Ho." Many overseasVietnamese are highly critical of the government of Vietnam you may want to consider this before wearingcommunist paraphernalia in their communities back home! A less controversial purchase would be a nn l(straw hat) instead.

    It's common to be stared at by locals in some regions, especially in the central and northern side of the country,and in rural areas. Southerners are usually more open.

    Asian women traveling with non-Asian men could attract attention, being considered lovers, escorts or

    prostitutes by some people, but this concept is disappearing. In some cases Asian women traveling with non-Asian men could even receive some unwanted comments.

    The most surprising thing about the topic of the Vietnam War (the American or reunification war, as it is called inVietnam) is that the Vietnamese do not bear any animosity against visitors from the countries that participated.Two-thirds of the population were born after the war and are quite fond of the west. That said, there are someattractions which present a very anti-American viewpoint on the war's legacy, which may make some feeluncomfortable.

    Be sensitive if you must discuss past conflicts. Well over 3 million Vietnamese died, and it is best to avoid any

    conversations that could be taken as an insult to the sacrifices made by both sides during the wars. Do notassume that all Vietnamese think alike as many Vietnamese in the South are still bitter about having lost againstthe North.

    Differences of character among Northerners and Southerners are still very palpable, with most of them disliking

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    each other. In general, Northerners are more closed and less friendly to foreigners, particularly Americans, andsometimes even rude.

    Contact

    Phone

    Police 113, Fire Brigade 114, Hospital 115, Time 117, General Information 1080

    Telephone

    Landline numbers in Hanoi and HCMC have a sequence of eight numbers, others have seven.

    Vietnam international code: +84Hanoi area code : (04)Ho Chi Minh area code : (08)

    VoIP calls

    Telephone bills are 30% to 40% cheaper if dialed with 171 or 178 services.

    Domestic call : 171 (178) + 0 + Area code + Number.International call : 171 (178) + 00 + Country code + Area code + Number.

    Since hotels and guesthouses often charge higher for telephone calls, try to find a post office or any reliable public service.

    Mobile phones

    There are many mobile networks with different codes:

    Vinaphone: 91, 94, 121, 123, 125 (GSM 900)Mobifone: 90, 93, 122, 124, 126 (GSM 900/1800)Viettel: 98, 97, 165, 166, 167, 168, 169 (GSM 900)SFone: 95 (CDMA)Vietnamobile: 92 (CDMA)

    EVN Telecom: 96 (CDMA)Beeline: 199 (GSM 900)

    You can buy a SIM card in every shop selling mobile phones, or showing their network's brands. The standard price is no higher than 75,000 dong, but foreigners are often charged 100,000 dong.

    Prepaid account charges vary from 1,700-2,500 dong per minute. Recharge cards are available indenominations of 50,000, 100,000, 200,000 and 500,000 dong.

    Roaming onto Vietnam's GSM networks are possible with foreign mobile phones, subject to agreements

    between operators.

    Internet

    Internet access is available in all but the most remote towns. Internet cafes are available in most tourist spots and

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    rates are fairly cheap, ranging from 2000-10,000 dong per hour. Connection speeds are high, especially in the big cities.

    Many hotels and restaurants provide free WIFI or terminals for their guests. If you bring your own phone and/or laptop, several providers offer mobile internet services (EDGE/3G) services as well.

    Internet censorship is applied to small number of internet services. As of February 2010, Facebook has been blocked in certain provinces but you can still try Facebook lite. There was also a report that telecom companies block the use of Skype, although the ban has apparently been lifted.

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