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Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, Putopis Venice, Italy Venecija, Italija 228 229 Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, T ravelogue Venecija je čaroban grad koji vole pisci, umjetnici i pjesnici iz cijelog svijeta. Čak je i ime grada očaravajuće. Ovaj jedin- stveni i šarmantni grad na vodi ima dugu povijest, no okrenut je i budućnosti te predstavlja most između Istoka i Zapada. Venecija je jedinstvena i po svojoj kuhinji. Naravno, važno je znati kamo otići. U Veneciji se možeš izgubiti i otkriti skro- vita mjesta, daleko od uobičajenih turističkih pravaca. Kako biste se snašli i mogli uživati u gradu, morate biti mirni i strpljivi. Šetajući mostovima, pokraj kanala i usidrenih bro- dova, možete tako naići na neočekivanu mirnu oazu u kojoj se možete opustiti neposredno pokraj prometnih kala, uskih ulica koje daju pečat gradu-laguni ili osamljenih malih vene- cijanskih trgova – campiellos. U Veneciji možete naći mje- sta prikladna za convivium (bankete) i živjeti u starim pala- čama koje su pripadale plemićkim obiteljima ili pak u starim Venice for Normal People Venecija za obične ljude Venice is a magical city, loved by writers, artists and poets from all over the world. Even its name is captivating. This unique city on the water is full of history and charm from the past as well as hopes for the future. It is a bridge between the East and the West. Venice is also a unique city in the world for its cuisine. Of course, it is important to know where to go. In Venice you can lose yourself and discover hidden places, away from the usual tourist routes. To get around Venice you must keep calm and be patient for this is necessary to enjoy the city. So, when you walk up and down the bridges, near canals and harbors boats, you can always come across an unexpected oasis of calm, and relax just off a busy calle, a narrow lane which characterizes the lagoon city, or solitary campiellos, small Venetian squares. In Venice you can find places dedicated to convivium (banquet), and live in ancient palaces which used to belong to the noble napisali wrien by Raul Bei Greta Ruffino fotografije photographs by Raul Bei (rb) Andrea Piovesan (ap) (rb)

Venecija za obične ljude Venice for Normal People - oris.hr · stveni i šarmantni grad na vodi ima dugu povijest, no okrenut je i budućnosti te predstavlja most između Istoka

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Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, PutopisVenice, ItalyVenecija, Italija228 229Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, Travelogue

¶ Venecija je čaroban grad koji vole pisci, umjetnici i pjesnici iz cijelog svijeta. Čak je i ime grada očaravajuće. Ovaj jedin-stveni i šarmantni grad na vodi ima dugu povijest, no okrenut je i budućnosti te predstavlja most između Istoka i Zapada. ¶ Venecija je jedinstvena i po svojoj kuhinji. Naravno, važno je znati kamo otići. U Veneciji se možeš izgubiti i otkriti skro-vita mjesta, daleko od uobičajenih turističkih pravaca. Kako biste se snašli i mogli uživati u gradu, morate biti mirni i strpljivi. Šetajući mostovima, pokraj kanala i usidrenih bro-dova, možete tako naići na neočekivanu mirnu oazu u kojoj se možete opustiti neposredno pokraj prometnih kala, uskih ulica koje daju pečat gradu-laguni ili osamljenih malih vene-cijanskih trgova – campiellos. ¶ U Veneciji možete naći mje-sta prikladna za convivium (bankete) i živjeti u starim pala-čama koje su pripadale plemićkim obiteljima ili pak u starim

Venice for Normal People

Venecija za obične ljude

¶ Venice is a magical city, loved by writers, artists and poets from all over the world. Even its name is captivating. This unique city on the water is full of history and charm from the past as well as hopes for the future. It is a bridge between the East and the West. ¶ Venice is also a unique city in the world for its cuisine. Of course, it is important to know where to go. In Venice you can lose yourself and discover hidden places, away from the usual tourist routes. To get around Venice you must keep calm and be patient for this is necessary to enjoy the city. So, when you walk up and down the bridges, near canals and harbors boats, you can always come across an unexpected oasis of calm, and relax just off a busy calle, a narrow lane which characterizes the lagoon city, or solitary campiellos, small Venetian squares. ¶ In Venice you can find places dedicated to convivium (banquet), and live in ancient palaces which used to belong to the noble

napisaliwritten by

Raul Betti Greta Ruffino

fotografije photographs by

Raul Betti (rb)Andrea Piovesan (ap)

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oris, broj 86, godina 2014230 231oris, number 86, year 2014 Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, Putopis Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, Travelogue

zanatskim radionicama. Grad obiluje povijesnim lokacijama koje sa suvremenim dizajnom koegzistiraju u skladnom suži-votu. Neka tradicionalna venecijanska jela, poput slavnog

families, or in former laboratories and workshops. The town is full of historical locations as well as contemporary design which coexist in harmony. Some traditional Venetian dishes are linked

jela sarde in saor – srdele u marinadi od luka, nastala su kao posljedica potrebe za konzervacijom hrane još u doba Mletačke republike (Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia) kada su korištene razne tehnike kako bi se hrana mogla sačuvati na brodovima. Riblji specijaliteti glavni su aduti venecijan-ske kuhinje: bakalar, sipa, ljuskavci i školjke. ¶ Posebni rituali ustaljivali su se u Veneciji godinama, poput aperitiva, koji je puno više od happy hour dijela dana: Bacari obilazak uklju-čuje male gostionice ili barove u kojima se može popiti čaša vina ili vrlo popularni Spritz, koktel s malim udjelom alkohola, Camparijem i sodom ili Aperol s proseccom, sve uz cicchette (venecijanske zalogaje), predjela općepoznata pod nazivom stuzzichini (zalogajčići). Tijekom aperitiva naučit ćete puno o mjestima, ljudima i životnim stilovima. ¶ Destinacije oda-brane za ovaj obilazak krasi kvalitetna hrana i priče o restora-nima i njihovim vlasnicima; ljudima koji strastveno obavljaju svoj posao i koji su, u većini slučajeva, proputovali svijet i odlučili se zaustaviti upravo ovdje. ¶ Buon Appetito!

to conservation needs dating from the Republic of Venice (known as Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia), introduced to enable pres-ervation of food on ships, as the famous sarde in saor, sardines marinated in onions. Fish specialities are the protagonists of the Venetian cuisine: cod fish, cuttlefish, crustaceans, mussels and clams. ¶ In Venice there are specific rituals that have been con-solidated over the years, such as the Aperitivo time, which means much more than happy hour; the tour of Bacari implies small inns or bars where you can drink a glass of wine or the very popular Spritz, a low-alcohol cocktail with Campari and soda or Aperol with Prosecco accompanied by cicchetti (Venetian bites), appe-tizers generally known as stuzzichini (finger food). During the Aperitivo time you will learn more about places, people and life-style. ¶ The destinations chosen for this route are distinguished by the quality of the food and the stories behind the places and their managers. Those are the people who are passionate about their work, and who, more often than not, have travelled the world and then decided to stop here. ¶ Buon Appetito!

Destinacije odabrane za ovaj obilazak krasi kvalitetna hrana i priče o restoranima i njihovim vlasnicima; ljudima koji su proputovali svijet i odlučili se zaustaviti upravo ovdje

The destinations chosen for this route are distinguished by the qual-ity of the food and the stories behind the places and their managers. Those are the people who have travelled the world and then decided to stop here

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Osteria Mascaron ¶ Cuttlefish alla veneta, spaghetti with lobster, maltagliati pasta with Granseola, grilled fish are some specialties to try in the Osteria Al Mascaron. Expect the freshest local seafood, delicious homemade pasta, sep-pia nero (squid ink), antipasti-style grilled vegetables and panna cotta for dessert. The Osteria Al Mascaron is an old tavern restaurant which has preserved the old traditional atmosphere, just two minutes from the Campo Santa Maria Formosa. Over the door of the bell tower the mascaron stands out, the mask that became the symbol of the inn (The Osteria) that is located in the Calle Longa. ¶ The Venetians

Osteria Mascaron Castello, 5225,

tel. + 39 0415225995 osteriamascaron.it

Osteria Mascaron ¶ Sipa alla veneta, špageti s jastogom, maltagliati tjestenina s grancigulom, riba sa žara – neki su od specijaliteta koje treba kušati u gostionici Mascaron. Očekujte dnevnu ponudu najsvježijih plodova mora iz lokalnog ulova, ukusnu domaću tjesteninu, crnu tjesteninu (s crnilom od sipe), povrće sa žara kao predjelo i panna cottu za desert. Gostio-nica Mascaron stara je taverna, samo dvije minute udaljena od Trga svete Marije Formose, koja je zadržala staru tradicionalnu atmosferu. Iznad vrata zvonika ističe se maskeron, maska koja je postala simbol taverne koja se nalazi u Calle Longa. ¶ Venecijanci su išli u gostionicu Al Mascaron početkom 20.

used to go to the Osteria Al Mascaron at the beginning of the 20th century when most of the visitors were workers: it was known as a shop where local and southern wines were resold, and where one could eat simple traditional Venetian dishes. ¶ In 1978 Gigi Vianello got back to Venice after years in Paris. So by that time he decided to take over the Osteria. The ambience inside Al Mascaron has a slight French touch, ancient Venetian floorboard are topped with wooden tables. The authentic display cabinets featuring Art Deco style allow the visitors to catch a glimpse of numerous recovered pieces freely displayed on the walls and shelves in the inn. The space

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Caffè Centrale ¶ Lijepo iznenađenje koje nudi mnoga jela i preplavljeno je turistima, Caffè Centrale, smješten je u središtu povijesnog centra Venecije pokraj kazališta La Fenice, u sklopu palače obitelji Cocco Molin, starog zda-nja koje datira iz 1500. godine. Odražava duh lokala Caffè Concerto, još jednog odredišta na kopnu koje je postalo kultno. Zašto promijeniti nešto što funkcionira i dobrog je okusa? Vlasnik, Gigi Penello, ovdje nastavlja svoj put koji je započeo prije trideset godina. ¶ Dizajn interijera mode-ran je; kristalni stolovi, lusteri od murano stakla i slike koje predstavljaju filmske i glazbene zvijezde. ¶ Recepti se temelje na svježoj hrani pripremljenoj jednostavnim i inovativnim tehnikama. Na meniju se nalazi puno zanimljivih jela koja se temelje na novim načinima pripreme mesa i ribe: mekani pjenasti krumpir s kobasicom, file od govedine i guščja jetra (foie gras), tatarski biftek s hladnim prahom od gorušice ili pak slavni sladoled magnum posut suhim voćem i poslužen na štapiću. Poznati su im i zalogaji: Tonda classica, pita s

and tables are small and you may have to dinner together with other people: artists, actors, painters or ordinary peo-ple, all of them with a story to tell. It is a casual, warm and welcoming local Venetian trattoria where it is possible to taste some of the best traditional Venetian dishes. Perfect for a light snack or a long meal. Booking is recommended. ¶ 

Spaghetti Nero di SeppiaFor one portion 150 g of cuttlefish ¶ Cut the cuttlefish, cook with fried onions and a bit of garlic, a dash of white wine half cooked, then add the ink from the cuttlefish, finish cooking, add pasta, sauté with a bit of parsley and serve.

stoljeća kada su gosti uglavnom bili radnici. Bila je poznata kao trgovina u kojoj su se preprodavala lokalna i južna vina i gdje su se posluživala jednostavna jela venecijanske tradicionalne kuhinje. ¶ Nakon godina provedenih u Parizu, 1978. Gigi Via-nello vratio se u Veneciju i odlučio preuzeti tavernu. Ambijent interijera taverne Al Mascaron ima primjese francuskog stila, a na starim venecijanskim podnim daskama stoje drveni stolovi. Originalne vitrine Art déco stila omogućuju promatraču letimi-čan pregled sačuvanih komada slobodno izloženih na zidovima i policama taverne. Prostor i stolovi mali su i može se dogoditi da večerate s drugim ljudima: umjetnicima, glumcima, slika-rima ili običnim ljudima, od kojih svi žele ispričati neku priču. To je ležerna, topla i gostoljubiva lokalna venecijanska trattoria u kojoj se može uživati u nekim od najboljih tradicionalnih jela venecijanske kuhinje. Savršeno mjesto za lagani zalogaj ili obilni obrok. Preporuča se rezervacija.

Špageti Nero di SeppiaZa porciju je potrebno 150 g sipe ¶ Očistite i razrežite sipu, pir-jajte s lukom i malo češnjaka te kapljicom kratko prokuhanog bijelog vina. Zatim dodajte crnilo od sipe, kratko prokuhajte, dodajte tjesteninu, pirjajte s malo peršina i poslužite.

Caffè CentralePiscina Frezzeria N°1659/Btel. + 39 0418876642caffecentralevenezia.com

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tankom koricom, mozzarellom i cherry rajčicama, taggias-che maslinama i bosiljkom, Rotolone al peperoncino, vruće rolice od kruha s domaćom šunkom, mozzarellom, rajčicama, salatom, čilijem i crvenom šalšom (majonezom s kečapom i brendijem). Ne propustite izvrsne domaće deserte: npr. fra-golatu sa sladoledom od grčkog jogurta i jagoda te svježim jagodama. Zaista izvrsno. 

Caffè Centrale ¶ A nice surprise in Venice offering many dishes and is overrun by tourists. The Caffè Centrale is located in the heart of the historic center of Venice next to La Fenice Theatre, within the Palazzo Cocco Molin, an ancient dwell-ing that dates back to the 1500s. It reflects the spirit of the Caffè Concerto, another place on the mainland which has become a cult. So why change something that works and

tastes good? The owner, Gigi Penello continues here his jour-ney which began over thirty years ago. Recipes are based on fresh food prepared with simplicity and innovative techniques. ¶ The interior design is modern: crystal tables, Murano glass chandeliers and some paintings of the stars of music and cin-ema. ¶ The menu is full of interesting reinvented dishes based on meat and fish: soft foam potato with sausage, beef fillet and foie gras, beef tartar with cold mustard powder or the famous ice-cream Magnum with dried fruit, served on a stick. There are famous snacks: the Tonda classica, a Pita bread with mozzarella, cherry tomato, taggiasche olives & basil, Rotolone al peperoncino, hot bread rolls with homemade ham, moz-zarella, tomatoes, lettuce, chilli and salsa rosa (mayonnaise with ketchup and brandy). Do not miss excellent homemade desserts: for example fragolata with Greek yogurt strawberry ice-cream with fresh strawberries. Really excellent. 

Caffè Centrale, smješten je u središtu povijesnog centra Venecije pokraj kazališta La Fenice, u sklopu palače obitelji Cocco Molin iz 1500. godine

The Caffè Centrale is located in the heart of the historic center of Venice next to La Fenice Theatre, within the Palazzo Cocco Molin, from 1500s

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Campiello del RemerSestiere Cannaregio, 5701

tel. + 39 0415228789alremer.com

Campiello del Remer ¶ Two travellers, Emilio Farinon and Angela Cook, who fell in love and were enchanted by Venice, decided to open a restaurant in a former 15th-century ware-house, transforming it into an amazing tavern. The Campiello del Remer is located in the heart of Venice, near the Rialto Bridge, at the Campiello Remer, famous for several companies that used to manufacture oars for gondolas. From the shores of Campiello, on a small square, you can admire a beauti-ful panoramic view of the Grand Canal, which includes part of the Rialto Bridge, the Palazzo Camerlenghi, the Campo

Campiello del Remer ¶ Dvoje putnika, Emilio Farinon i Angela Cook, zaljubili su se i, opčinjeni Venecijom, odlu-čili otvoriti restoran u starom skladištu iz petnaestog sto-ljeća koje su preobrazili u predivnu tavernu. Campiello del Remer smješten je u središtu Venecije, blizu mosta Rialto, na Campiello Remer, poznatom po više tvrtki koje su u proš-losti proizvodile vesla za gondole. S malog trga možete se diviti prekrasnom pogledu na Canale Grande, koji uključuje

dell’Erberia and the long building of the Fabbriche Nuove. ¶ Although you can have lunch and dinner, it is an ideal place for an aperitivo. During the summer you can drink sitting on the pier and in the coldest season on stools near the bar. The location is perfect, the interior is rustic but at the same time very nice, distinctive and strikingly beautiful and romantic: rustic brick floor, doors from Tuscany, old windows, old lamps and wooden ceiling beams, wooden tables lit by chandeliers. Everything has been restored. It feels like a meeting place for old friends even though people who come by or work

dio mosta Rialto, palaču Camerlenghi, Campo dell’Erberia i dugačku zgradu Fabbriche Nuove. ¶ Iako se poslužuje ručak i večera, ovo je idealno mjesto za aperitiv; ljeti možete pijuc-kati sjedeći na molu, a za hladnijih godišnjih doba sjediti na stolicama pokraj šanka. Lokacija je savršena, interijer rustikalan, a u isto vrijeme jako ugodan, poseban i različit, nevjerojatno lijep i romantičan. Pod od starih cigli, vrata iz Toskane, stari prozori, stare lampe i drvene stropne grede, drveni stolovi osvijetljeni lusterima – svaki je predmet restauriran. Izgleda kao mjesto susreta starih prijatelja iako

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ljudi koji navraćaju ili tamo rade dolaze sa svih strana svijeta: stari konobar je možda iz Venecije, glavni kuhar iz Pakistana, barmen iz Argentine... ¶ Hrana je jednostavna i cijene su umjerene. U podne se nude bife obroci: riba, meso, povrće i juhe, koji se poslužuju uz vino i vodu. Svaki dan happy hour je od 17h do 19:30h, a poslužuje se Aperol/Campari Spritz, vino ili prosecco. Navečer glavni kuhar poslužuje riblja jela, meso sa žara i domaće deserte. Restoran nudi i glazbu uživo, uglavnom klasičnu glazbu ili blues.

there are from all over the world: the old waiter may be from Venice, the chef from Pakistan, the barman from Argentina... ¶ Food is simple and prices are good. At midday, the restau-rant serves buffet meals which include fish, meat, vegetables, soups, served with water and wine. Daily happy hour is from 5.00 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. and includes Aperol/Campari Spritz, wine or prosecco wine. In the evening, the chef serves fish, grilled meat and homemade desserts. There is also live music, mostly classical music and blues.

Bacaro alla Vedova ¶ Najbolje odredište za jeftinije obroke u Veneciji tipični su barovi naziva bacari. Naziv je izveden i iz imena Bakusa, rimskog boga vina. Venecija obiluje bacarijima – gotovo na svakom su uglu – pa slijedite primjer lokalaca i uživajte u neobičnim jelima u opuštenom ozračju; giro per bacari siguran je način na koji možete iskusiti pravu Veneciju. Bacari su zaštitni znak grada, kao i osteria u kojoj možete popiti un’ombra di vino (čašu vina) ili spritz uz cicchetti zalo-gaje. Tradicionalno mjesto je bacaro, tipični venecijanski bar jednostavno namješten drvenim stolovima i klupama, savr-šeno mjesto za opušteni obrok ili brzi zalogaj s prijateljima. ¶ Venecijanski bacariji poslužuju tradicionalna lokalna mesna ili riblja jela. Možete kao cicchetti jesti sarde in saòr (mari-nirane srdele), baccalà mantecato (kremasti sušeni bakalar), folpeti (hobotnicu), okruglice od mesa ili ribe te prženu ribu. U ulici Strada Nuova naći ćete gostionicu Osteria Ca’ D’Oro, poznatiju kao Osteria Alla Vedova (Kod udovice), jedan od

Bacaro alla VedovaRamo Ca’ d’Oro,Calle del Pistor 3912Cannaregio 3192tel: + 39 0415285324

SpritzSpritz je poznati venecijanski koktel. Brzo se i lako napravi: ¶ U čašu ulijte i pomiješajte jednu trećinu 1/3 svakog sastojka: 1/3 prosecca, 1/3 Aperola ili Camparija (za gorki spritz izabe-rite Cynar) i 1/3 mineralne vode. Ne zaboravite krišku naranče i maslinu.

SpritzSpritz is a famous cocktail in Venice. It is fast and easy to make. ¶ Put in glass and mix one third (1/3) of each ingredient: 1/3 prosecco, 1/3 Aperol or Campari (for bitter Spritz select Cynar), 1/3 sparkling water. Do not forget a slice of orange and an olive.

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najstarijih gradskih bacarija namješten golim drvenim stolo-vima, u kojem možete uživati u nizu cicchetti zalogaja poput ukusnih polpettina, navodno najukusnijih mesnih okruglica u Veneciji. Najživlje je uz lokalno stanovništvo koje se okuplja oko mramornog šanka. Ako želite jesti u ovom restoranu, ne zaboravite unaprijed rezervirati; vrlo je teško naći mjesto.

Mesne okruglice alla vedovaSastojci: mljevena govedina, mortadela, krumpir, češnjak, jaja, parmezan, krušne mrvice, peršin, sol i papar. ¶ Stavite mljevenu govedinu u zdjelu. Skuhajte krumpire i zgnječite ih. Usitnite mortadelu i dodajte češnjak, parmezan, jaja, krušne mrvice (dosta, ali ne previše da okruglice ne bi bile hrskave), peršin, sol i papar. Pomiješajte sve sastojke, oblikujte okruglice i uvaljajte ih u mrvice. Pržite u dubokom ulju, bolje u fritezi. Okruglice tijekom prženja ne bi smjele dotaknuti dno.

Bacaro alla Vedova ¶ The best way to have a low-cost meal in Venice is to visit very typical bars called bacari. The word derives of the Roman God of wine Bacchus. Venice is full of bacari, you’ll find one on every corner. So do as the locals do and enjoy an unusual meal in a laidback atmosphere; a giro per bacari is a definite way of experiencing the real Venice. Bacari are the landmarks of the city and so is an osteria where you can drink un’ombra of wine or a Spritz, with cicchetti (finger food). The traditional venue is a bacaro, a typical Venetian bar with simple furnishing of wooden tables and benches, a perfect place for a relaxed meal or a quick snack with friends. ¶ Venetian bacari serve traditional local meat or fish dishes. You can eat cicchetti like sarde in saor (marinated sardines), baccalà mantecato (creamy dried cod), folpeti (baby octopus), meat or fish balls and fried fish. In the Strada Nuova you’ll find the Osteria Ca’ D’Oro, better known as the Osteria Alla

Vedova (The Widow’s Place), one of the city’s oldest bacari furnished with bare wooden tables, where you can enjoy a range of cicchetti including delicious polpettine, allegedly the best meatballs in Venice. The real action takes place among the locals that stand around the marble bar. If you want to have a dinner, do not forget to book... finding a place is really hard.

Meatballs alla vedovaIngredients: ground beef, mortadella, potatoes, garlic, eggs, Par-mesan cheese, bread crumbs, parsley, salt and pepper. ¶ Put minced beef in a bowl. Boil potatoes and when they are cooked, mash them. Chop mortadella and add garlic, parmesan cheese, eggs, bread-crumbs (enough, but not too much to avoid chewy dumplings), parsley, salt and pepper. Mix all ingredients, shape the mixture into balls and roll them in breadcrumbs. Fry in hot oil, preferably in a deep fryer. Meatballs should not touch the bottom of the pot.

Najbolje odredište za jeftinije obroke u Veneciji tipični su barovi naziva bacari. Venecija obiluje baca-rijima – gotovo na svakom su uglu The best way to have a low-cost meal in Venice is to visit very typical bars called bacari. Venice is full of bacari, you’ll find one on every corner

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abc QuadriPiazza San Marco 121

30124 Venecijatel. +39 0415222105

caffequadri.it

abc Quadri ¶ The abc Quadri is an informal restaurant located in one of the most beautiful squares in the world, with the Basilica of San Marco and the Correr Museum. On the ground floor, you can admire the San Marco Square and flocks of tour-ists, and you can taste traditional Venetian dishes and some creations by the chef Max Alajmo, the young European 3 Star Chef. At the abc Quadri (abc is an acronym for Alla Base della

abc Quadri ¶ abc Quadri neformalan je restoran koji se nalazi na jednom od najljepših trgova na svijetu, na kojem se nalazi i Bazilika svetog Marka i muzej Correr. U prizemlju se možete diviti Trgu svetog Marka preplavljenom grupama turista te kušati tradicionalna venecijanska jela i neke kreacije glavnog kuhara Maxa Alajma, mladog europskog kuhara koji ima tri Michelin zvjezdice. U restoranu abc Quadri (abc je akronim

Cucina, which literally means in the basis of cooking) you can eat some different local appetizers called cicchetti: sardines with onion, chicken salad, cooked egg with anchovies, capers and chives, rice ball with mozzarella and pesto sauce, breaded sausage and polenta with creamed cod. ¶ Open for lunch, din-ner and late-night snacking, the abc Quadri is a casual restau-rant located inside one of the Venice’s oldest coffeehouses. The

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oris, broj 86, godina 2014246 247oris, number 86, year 2014 Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, Putopis Raul Betti, Greta Ruffino, Travelogue

od Alla Base della Cucina, tj. u osnovi kuhanja) možete kušati različite lokalne zalogaje zvane ciccheti: srdele s lukom, salatu od piletine, kuhana jaja s inćunima, kaparima i vlascem, okru-glice od riže s mozzarellom i pesto umakom, pohane kobasice s palentom i kremom od bakalara. ¶ Ležerni restoran poslužuje ručak, večeru i kasnovečernje zalogaje, a nalazi se u jednoj od najstarijih venecijanskih kavana. Elegantni interijer prizemlja ukrašen je iznimnom venecijanskom poliranom žbukom i veli-kim prozorima koji gledaju na Trg svetog Marka, omogućujući tako gostima pogled na jedno od najljepših mjesta na svijetu. Mènī nudi tradicionalna venecijanska i talijanska jela. Glavni kuhari Silvio Giavedoni i Denis Mattiuzzi u praksu provode Maxove kulinarske ideje, i pripremaju ih od visokokvalitetnih sastojaka. Što treba probati? Pomalo od svega, od jednostav-nih špageta s umakom od rajčice do pržene ribe ili tatarskog bifteka. Ne zaboravite ostaviti mjesta za desert – definitivno za tiramisu – najpoznatiji desert u Italiji i svijetu. Tiramisu pripada kategoriji slojevitih kolača, poput trifle slastice. Ori-ginalnost tiramisua leži u sastojcima; likeru od jaja, kavi, mas-carpone siru i keksima.

elegant interior on the ground floor is decorated in exquisite Venetian stuccos and large windows overlooking the Piazza San Marco, allowing diners to enjoy the sight of one of the most fascinating places in the world. The menu offers tradi-tional Venetian and Italian dishes, prepared with high-quality ingredients by chefs Silvio Giavedoni and Denis Mattiuzzi, who put into practice the concepts of Max’s cuisine. What to try? A little bit of everything, from simple spaghetti with tomato sauce or clams, to fried fish or steak tartar. Don’t forget to leave room for dessert. Definitely tiramisu, the most famous Italian dessert in Italy and the world. It belongs to the category of layered cakes, like trifle. The originality of tiramisu lies in its ingredients: eggnog, coffee, mascarpone cheese and biscuits.

Lorenzo Gastronomia ¶ Ako planirate živjeti u Veneciji što je prirodnije i autentičnije moguće, npr. u prijateljevoj kući ili unajmljenom stanu, i odlučite kušati tradicionalne talijanske proizvode, trgovina delikatesama Lorenzo Gastronomia pravo je mjesto za vas. Nalazi se u ulici Calle dei Fabbri, nekoliko koraka od Trga svetog Marka. Godine 1993. Lorenzo De Zorzi odlučio je preuzeti ovu trgovinu i udahnuti joj novi život. Zahvaljujući njegovoj strasti prema dobroj hrani i kvalitetnim proizvodima, ovo je mjesto tijekom godina postalo zaštitinim znakom delika-tesnih trgovina u Veneciji. ¶ Iako je malen, u Lorenzovom dućanu možete kupiti različite delikatese koje vlasnik pažljivo i brižno odabire: sir i šunku,vino iz talijanskih i stranih podruma, piva proizvedena u malim i srednjim pivovarama, mirisne umake za

Lorenzo GastronomiaSan Marco 4666Calle dei Fabbritel +39 0415232682

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Lorenzo Gastronomia ¶ If you plan to live in Venice in the truest and most authentic way, for example in a friend’s house or a rented apartment, and you decide to try Italian tradition products, the deli shop Lorenzo Gastronomia is the place for you. It is located in the Calle dei Fabbri, a few steps from the Piazza San Marco. In 1993 Lorenzo De Zorzi decided to take over this grocery store and give it a new life. Thanks to his passion for good food and quality products, over the years this place has become one of the landmarks of Venice for assorted ingredients. ¶ Even though it is small, in Lorenzo’s deli you can by different delicacies: cheese and ham, wine from Italian and foreign cellars, craft beers, fragrant pasta sauces available in different formats and also coffee and milk, which the owner

selects with care and attention. As regards cheese, you can buy goat cheese, sheep cheese and vaccino from Veneto and from other Italian regions. Do not miss culatello di Zibello (cured meat from Zibello), lardo di Colonnata (curing strips of fatback with herbs from Colonnata), prosciutto from Parma, prosciutto from San Daniele and ham from Montagnana; they are perfect for a tasty appetizer. You can also buy famous Alba truffles, foie gras, wild salmon, fresh Iranian caviar, fish roe from mullet or tuna, a wide selection of Italian, Spanish and Greek olives. A large selection of Italian wines, sparkling wines and champagnes. The same applies for extra virgin olive oils. By imposing fast shopping, supermarkets have taken away the pleasure of buying good food. At Lorenzo’s you can rediscover the pleasure of shopping.

tjesteninu koji su dostupni u različitim oblicima te kavu i mlijeko. Možete kupiti i kozji sir, ovčji sir i vaccino iz regije Veneto, kao i iz drugih talijanskih regija. Nemojte zaobići culatello di Zibello (suhomesnate proizvode iz Zibella), lardo di Colonnata (sušenu slaninu sa začinskim biljem iz Colonnate), pršut iz Parme, pršut iz San Danielea te šunku iz Montagnane; savršene za ukusne zalogaje. Možete kupiti slavne tartufe iz Albe, paštetu od guščje jetre, divljeg lososa, svježi iranski kavijar, ikru cipla ili tune te birati između talijanskih, španjolskih i grčkih maslina. Nudi se i veliki izbor talijanskih vina, pjenušaca i šampanjaca, kao i ekstra djevičanskog maslinovog ulja. Brzi i nametljivi supermarketi oduzeli su nam zadovoljstvo kupovanja dobre hrane, no kod Lorenza možete iznova otkriti radost kupovanja.

Nemojte zaobići culatello di Zibello, lardo di Colonnata, pršut iz Parme, pršut iz San Danielea te šunku iz Montagnane; savršene za ukusne zalogaje

Do not miss culatello di Zibello, lardo di Colonnata, prosciutto from Parma, prosciutto from San Daniele and ham from Montagnana; they are perfect for a tasty appetizer

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