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Island escape Réunion
61www.getaway.co.za
REASONS TO VISITRéunion
Sarah Duff discovers why the tiny Indian Ocean island is an underrated adventurer’s paradise. ABOVE: Le volcan offers incredible hiking through a giant cra-ter and over solidified lava fields. LEFT: Taking the plunge in one of Réunion’s dramatic canyons, Bassin la Paix. Canyoning combines an adrenaline rush with dramatic scenery.
I f lazing about on a white sandy beach all day overlooking a serene turquoise sea sounds like your idea of the perfect Indian Ocean holiday, then Réunion
is not for you.If, however, you’re into adventure,
adrenaline and awe-inspiring landscapes, put the island at the top of your bucket list. L’île intense is an apt nickname for this Pandora’s box of exciting outdoor activities in majestic surroundings, which include paragliding over the sea, trekking in breathtaking tropical forests encircled by dramatic peaks, hiking in an eerie, giant volcanic crater, canyoning in steep gorges covered in cascading waterfalls and mountain biking in the wild interior down hilly slopes to the sea. And that’s just for starters; for such a small island, Réunion has a lot to offer. Here are ten reasons why this French department deserves an oh là là.
�Awesome volcanoVisit one of the world’s most accessi-ble active volcanoes – Piton de la
Fournaise, or Le volcan as it’s known to the locals – by hiking into its crater. If it’s erupting while you’re on the island, hike to the Dolomieu Crater in the evening for the surreal experience of watching molten lava spurt into the night sky. Need to know: Visit the Maison du Volcan (Volcano House, tel +262-590-026) in Bourg-Murat en route to the volcano to see photos and videos of eruptions. Admission is !7 (R70) an adult. Le volcan erupts pretty regularly; check www.fournaise.info for updates.
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Island escape Réunion
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� Incredible hiking Réunion has breathtaking hiking trails through magnificent
scenery, from the barren, other-wordly landscape of Le volcan to rainforest paths complete with cascading water-falls and mountain climbs amongst craggy peaks. Much of the interior is accessible only by foot, so the scenery is relatively untouched. There are two major multi-day hiking trails (Grande Ranonnée Route 1 and Route 2), as well as numerous short rambles and day hikes (there are over a 1 000 kilometres of hiking paths). Need to know: Accommodation on hiking routes is in simple mountain gîtes (lodges). Maison de la Montagne provides maps, information and bookings for hiking lodges, routes and guides. Tel +262-907-878, www.reunion-nature.com
�Canyoning Canyoning (kloofing) – a mixture of swimming, walking, scram-
bling, jumping and abseiling – through gorges and canyons is the best way to get your adrenaline pumping and explore the island’s magnificent interior, which is swathed in thick rainforests and dramatic waterfalls. Réunion has around 20 canyoning sites, ranging from those suitable to beginners, to pretty tough, like the spectacular Trou de Fer Canyon, which will challenge even the most experienced canyoneer.
Popular canyoning spots are Bassin la Paix on the eastern side of the island (perfect for beginners), Trou Blanc, Bras Rouge and Fleurs Jaunes in the Cirque
de Salazie, and Mini Fleurs Jaunes, which is suitable for children.Need to know: Run Aventures offers canyoning excursions which start at !35 (R350) a person. Tel +692-640-822, www.runaventures.com
Canyon Ricaric offers canyoning adventures (from one-day to multi-day trips) as well as packages that include canyoning and diving, paragliding or rafting. Tel +262-331-999, email [email protected], www.canyonreunion.com
�ParaglidingRéunion is a world-renowned destination for paragliding,
drawing enthusiasts from all over the globe each year for the World Series. St-Leu, with its year-round thermals, is the island’s best paragliding spot. Launch off high above the town and take in the best views of Réunion as you float over the ocean, a lagoon, cane fields and botanical gardens.
Need to know: Parapente Réunion is a paragliding school in St-Leu which offers tandem flights with a pilot for beginners and kids above the age of six, as well as multi-day training programmes. Tandem flights cost from !75 (R750) and training programmes running for four days start at !269 (R2 690). Tel +692-829-292, email [email protected], www.parapente-reunion.fr
�Superb foodAfter all the adventuring, you’ll have burned a lot of calories.
Good news – Réunion has superb food to refuel on. French and Creole cuisine find a happy (and delicious) marriage on the island. Try a spicy carris (curry) with fish, seafood, chicken or meat served with rice and lentils, or buttery French pastries and croissants. The fruit is magnificent – Réunion is said to have the best pineapples in the world. Gorge on succulent litchis (when in season), golden-orange pawpaw, tiny sweet mangoes and tangy grenadines (orange granadillas with white seeds). Don’t leave Réunion without trying the delicious rhum arrangé (infused rum). Need to know: Hit the Petit Marché (small market) on Rue Maréchal Leclerc in St-Denis for fabulous fresh fruit and veg, and locally grown vanilla pods.
�Family-friendlyRéunion is a fantastic family destination, especially if you
aren’t a family of couch potatoes. There are plenty of easy hikes suitable for children, including one into the volcanic crater, and kids from six years can go on a tandem paraglide. There’s also horse riding around the island, such as at Le Maïdo and around Bourg-Murat near the volcano.
Kids will love Kélonia, a turtle and tortoise sanctuary just outside St-Leu. They can pat Harold, the sanctuary’s 50-year-old rayon tortoise, or Blanche, the affectionate albino turtle, and see tiny turtle hatchlings. Need to know: Kélonia tel +262-348-110, www.kelonia.org.
Horse riding: Centre Equestre du Maïdo (tel +692-67-54-47) for pony rides and horse-riding trips and Centre Equestre Alti Merens (tel +262-591-884) in Bourg-Murat.
� SurfingRéunion has great surfing spots and attracts surfers from all
over the world to its breaks (it’s said St-Pierre has the best right-hand break). L’Hermitage Pass is recommended for its barrels, Trois Bassins is popular with beginners and Boucan-Canot also great. St-Leu is the most popular surfing spot on the island and for good reason: it has the best left-hand point break in Africa,
according to Getaway editor-at-large and committed surfer-dude Justin Fox.Need to know: Ecole de Surf St-Leu offers surfing lessons from !20 (R200) an hour. Tel +262-496-601, email [email protected], http://surf-reunion.com
For more about Reunion’s surfing spots, read Justin Fox’s 2007 article at tiny.cc/surfingreunion.
�France’s prettiest townsWith their pastel-coloured
buildings, Creole architecture, neat gardens, quaint shops and restaurants, and spectacular mountain amphitheatre
settings, the alpine towns of Cilaos and Hell-Bourg must be among the most scenic in France (the island counts as one of the European country’s 26 regions). The drive to get to these mountain hamlets, perched high in the cirques, is amazing. The road to Cilaos takes in 400 tortuous bends and offers spectacular views of cloud-enrobed peaks, while it’s hard to keep your eyes on the road as the dramatic scenery (cascading waterfalls, soaring mountains and lush tropical forests) unfolds on the drive to Hell-Bourg in Cirque Salazie.
Spend at least a day or two in Cilaos and go hiking, taste local wines at
FROM FAR LEFT: Get the best views of the island and a huge adrenaline rush while soaring over the coastline in a paraglider; hang out with turtles at the Kélonia turtle and tortoise sanctuary in St-Leu.
Formica Leo, a small scoria cone in the crater of Piton de la Fournaise, is a short hike from the car park at Pas de Bellecombe. If you don’t have time for a long hike, do this one to take in the panoramic vistas and lunar-like landscape.
Beautiful Creole buildings, quaint shops and cafés line the main street of Cilaos in the Cirque de Cilaos.
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Maison des Vins du Chai de Cilaos (tel +262-317-969) and fi ll up on delicious French treats at the cafés, creperies and boulangeries that line the charming main street. Rest your tired legs at the town’s thermal spa where massages and treatments cost from !10 (R100).
Hell-Bourg has some gorgeous old Creole buildings, including Maison Folio (tel +262-478-098). Pay !5 (R50) to take a tour of this 19th century villa and its gardens with the owners. For the more adventurous, there are some great day hikes from Hell-Bourg. Need to know: Cilaos Thermal Spa tel +262-317-227, email [email protected].
�Mountain bikingRéunion is a biker’s haven with almost 1 500 kilometres of
mountain-biking tracks, ranging from mountain paths suitable for beginners and children to pistes noir (black runs) for experienced riders. Regarded as one of the world’s best places for down-hill mountain-biking, the island has spectacular slopes down which you can career at break-neck speed. Le Maïdo is the most popular mountain biking spot with a 35-kilometre, 2 205-metre
Réunion’s beaches In between adrenaline-fuelled days, you may need a little downtime. Réunion is not well known for its beaches, but there are some lovely ones on the northwestern side of the island that are perfect for a bit of post-adventure relaxation. Boucan-Canot is the locals’ favourite and it’s easy to see why. Gently swaying casuarina trees fringe a wide sandy beach split into two parts by volcanic rock. St Gilles-les-Bains and L’Hermitage-les-Bains on the west coast are also popular. For something different, head to the black-sand beach of Etang Salé in the southwest.
which are at least cheaper than hotels. Budget rooms start at about �40 (R400). Contact Gîtes de France on tel +262-907-890, Maison de la Montagne (tel +262-907-878, www.reunion-nature.com) or the Tourism Office (tel +262-418-300, email [email protected]) for information and booking.
I stayed at the Mercure Créolia, which offers comforta-ble, large rooms on top of a hill in a quiet neighbourhood of St-Denis from �120 a night (R1 200). Attractions include a lake-sized pool and free wi-fi. Tel +262-942-626, email [email protected], www.mercure.com
LanguageEnglish isn’t widely spoken. Take a French dictionary and phrase book and learn a few basic phrases.
When to goHigh season stretches from June to the beginning of September (during the French school holidays) and October to the beginning of January. Cyclone season is December to March. December to April is hot and rainy, while April to October is cooler and drier. If you’re going to Réunion to surf or hike, go in the winter months (April to October).
VisasSouth Africans need a visa to travel to Réunion. Apply at a French embassy or consulate with a valid passport and return air ticket.
MoneyRéunion is expensive, with prices comparable to main-land France.
There are ATMs all over the island and credit cards are widely accepted. However, there are no money-changing facilities, so get euros before you go or draw money when you arrive.
Organising your tripFor travel packages and spe-cialised tours, contact either True Blue tel 021-426-0881, email [email protected],
www.truebluetravelco.za, or Unusual Destinations, tel 011-706-1991, email [email protected], www.unusualdestinations.com.
For more info and brochures on Réunion, contact the French Tourism Board in Johannesburg tel 011-523-8290, email [email protected], www.reunion.fr.
Accommodation price ratings A person a night, usually B&B, sometimes full board under R250 R251 – R499 R500 – R750 R751 – R999 R1000+
Getting thereMy return flights from Johannesburg to Réunion were sponsored by Air Austral.
Air Austral is the only airline that flies directly from Johannesburg to Réunion. Flights depart and return on Thursdays and Sundays, and cost from R4 330, excluding airport taxes of about R1 300. You’ll feel like you’re arriving in Réunion in style – expect excellent service, fabulous food (including tasty hors d’oeuvres and smoked salmon), and French bubbly and wine. For enquiries and reservations, contact tel 011-452-0244, email [email protected], www.air-austral.com.
Getting aroundRéunion has buses which traverse the island, but if you’re going to do a lot of exploring you’ll need to hire a car. Check out ICT Tropicar, which offers wheels from �32 a day. Tel +262-240-101, www.itc-tropical.com. Be warned, however – driving in Réunion is not for the faint-hearted. Drivers tend to be on the aggres-sive side and the roads can be precari-ously windy at times.
Accommodation options and costs Accommodation in Réunion is pricey. There are gîtes (guesthouses) and cham-bres d’hôtes (B&Bs) all over the island,
Travel planner
Get more online www.getaway.co.za As if these 10 reasons don’t make you want to book your fl ight to Réunion immedi-ately, we’ve listed fi ve more unexpected ways in which the island rocks. Check them out online at tiny.cc/reunionrocks.
Read Sarah’s blogs about her trip: Driving on the wrong (right) side of the road – tiny.cc/drivingreunion • Falling in love with Réunion – tiny.cc/lovereunion • Finding Le volcan – tiny.cc/levolcan • Ten things I learned in Réunion – tiny.cc/reunion10
descent through forests and cane fi elds to the sea, while the areas around St-Phillippe, Cilaos and the volcano also offer some great routes.Need to know: In Réunion, mountain bikes are known as VTTs. It’s an abbreviation of vélo tout terrain, or ‘bicycle for all terrains’.
In Cilaos, hire bikes from Run Evasion (tel +262-318-357, email [email protected], http://run.evasion.pages-perso-orange.fr) for !5 (R50) an hour or !11 (R110) for a half-day.
Rando Réunion Passion offers moun-tain biking trips down the slopes of Le Maïdo from !40 (R40) for a half-day trip. Tel +262-211-111, www.descente-vtt.com
��DivingRéunion’s hard and soft coral reefs, which are in a great
condition, teem with tropical fi sh such as sergeant majors, Moorish idols, squirrel-, trumpet-, lion-, pipe-, parrot-, clown- and angelfi sh. The best dive spots on the island are off St-Leu and St-Gilles. Need to know: B’leu Océan in St-Leu offers dives with or without guides from !42 (R420). Tel +262-349-749, [email protected], www.bleuocean.fr
At Bleu Marine Réunion at St-Gilles harbour, dive excursions cost from !50 (R500). Tel +262-242-200, email [email protected], www.bleu-marine-reunion.com
The Mercure Créolia hotel has great views of the capital St-Denis.
FROM FAR LEFT: Boucan-Canot has a lovely beach that’s a firm favourite with locals; lazy days on the beach at St-Pierre.
CIRQUE DU SALAZIE
CIRQUE DE CILAOS
INDIAN OCEAN0 10 20 30km
PITON DE LA FOURNAISE (LE VOLCAN)
Etang-Sale les-Bains
St-Leu
Bourg-MuratPas de Bellecombe
Roland Garros Int. Airport
Hell-Bourg
Cilaos
Le MaïdoSt-Gilles-les-Bains
Boucan-Canot
RÉUNION
St Denis
At time of going to print, �1 = R10.
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