The  Wine  Advocate  #203,  October  31,  2012    

   

EXCERPTS  WITH  ADDED  ILLUSTRATIONS  from:  Neal  Martin's  reviews  for  "Making  Malbec  on  the  Moonscape:  Argentina  2012"  and  his  accompanying  article.      

 Neal  Martin                                                                                                    Robert  Parker  

 BODEGA  CATENA  ZAPATA  

   

There   is   no   need   to   introduce   Catena   Zapata.   I   visited   the   winery,   which  stands   like   an   Egyptian  pyramid  looking  for  its  sphynx,  and  spent  the  entire  morning  darting  from  one  room  to  another  tasting  the  entire  portfolio  of  wines  from  the  family.  Naturally,  it  was  an  honor  to  meet  Nicolas  Catena  himself,  who  has  been  instrumental  in  Argentina’s  progress  over  the  last  three  decades.  But  what  is  pleasing  is  to  find  such  a  famous  winery  refusing  to  rest  upon  its  laurels  and  in  fact,  through  the  irrepressible  head  winemaker  Alejandro  Vigil,  a  man  who  patiently  contemplates  wines  24/7,  Catena  Zapata  are   looking  forward  and  asking  themselves  questions  about  the  style  of  wines  they  produce,  what  ought  to  be  the  next  stage  of  their  evolution,  instead  of  merely  replicating  previous  successes.    

 CATENA  ZAPATA  -­‐  ZAPATA  PLANT  SELECTIONS    Catena  Zapata  Adrianna  Vineyard  2009  -­‐  97  points  "It  has  a  complex  bouquet  of  blackberry,  chalk  dust,  leather  and  the  scent  of  an  old  English  stately   home.   The   palate   is   medium-­‐bodied   with   a   very   taut,   focused,  tense  entry.   This  has   wonderful   vivacity   and   outstanding   minerality,   the   finish  doing  that  rare  thing  of  transporting  you  to   its  place,  that   is  to  say,  high  up  in  the  Andes.  You  will  be  hard  pressed  to  find  a  better  Malbec  than  this."          Catena  Zapata  Malbec  Argentino  2009  -­‐  95  points  "It   has   a   more  opulent   bouquet   than   the   individual   blends,   with   dark   cherries,  iodine,  minerals   and   blueberry   that   are   all   beautifully   defined.   The   palate   has  a  dense,   weighty   entry  with   layers   of   ripe   blackberry   and   boysenberry   fruit  laced  with   crushed   stone   and   a   touch   of   graphite.   The   finish   is   supremely  well-­‐defined  and  focused,  with  immense  length  on  the  finish."      Nicolas  Catena  Zapata  2009  -­‐  95  points  "It  has  a  spellbinding  bouquet  that  exudes  minerality,  as  if  crushed  stones  had  been  sprinkled   into   the  black   fruit.  With   continued  aeration,   there  are   scents  of  oyster  shell   and   black  olive.   The   palate   is  full-­‐bodied,   with   immense   structure   and  backbone.   The   acidity   is   beautifully  judged   with   filigree   tannins   that   render   the  finish   so   elegant   and   refined,  with   notes  of   blackberry,   soy,   black   plum   and   that  stony  aftertaste.  Magnificent."      Catena  Zapata  Nicasia  Vineyard  2009  -­‐  94  points  "It  has  a  complex  bouquet  of  blackberry,  crushed  stone,  smoke  and  lavender  that  is  beautifully   defined   and   sophisticated.   The   palate   is  medium-­‐bodied   with   grainy  tannins.   It   is  extremely   well-­‐balanced,   with   a  broody,   introverted,   somehow  enigmatic   finish   that   you   just  want   to   keep  sipping   in  order   to  unlock   its   secrets.  Sublime."      Catena  Zapata  White  Bones  Chardonnay  2009  -­‐  96  points    “It   has   another   bewitching   bouquet   of   hazelnut,   crushed   stone   and   white  peach  that  would   shame  many  a  Burgundy  Grand  Cru.   The  palate  has   a   touch  of  honey  and   apricot   on   the  entry.   It   is   beautifully   balanced   with   subtle   white  peach   and  apricot  notes  mingling  with  pear  and  quince  towards  the  poised  finish.  Stunning.”      Catena  Zapata  White  Stones  Chardonnay  2009  -­‐  95  points  “It   has   a   bouquet   of   light   wild   honey,   honeysuckle   and   minerals   that  lend   it   a  Corton-­‐Charlemagne   like   complexity.   The  palate  has  a  gorgeous  brioche,  hazelnut  and   toffee-­‐tinged  entry.   It   displays   taut   acidity   and   a  harmonious,   mineral-­‐rich  finish  with  hints  of  smoke  and  almond.  Outstanding.”    

 CATENA  ALTA  -­‐  HIGH  ALTITUDE  ROW  SELECTIONS      Catena  Alta  Malbec  2009  -­‐  94  points  "It   offers   a   gorgeous,  pure,   floral   bouquet   with   ripe   pomegranate   and   wild  strawberry  imbued  with  superb  minerality  and  delineation.  The  palate  is  medium-­‐bodied   with   a   tense,  almost   broody   entry.   It   is   a   classic  Malbec,   one   you  might  almost  think  came  from  the  Old  World,  underpinned  by  great  structure  and  a  sense  of   masculinity.  Yet   it   is   superbly  balanced   with   plenty   of   ripe,   earthy   black   fruit  laced  with  tar  and  tobacco  towards  the  long,  rather  aristocratic  finish.  Excellent."      Catena  Alta  Chardonnay  2010  -­‐  93  points  "Offers   wild   honey,  jasmine,   nectarine   and   crushed   stone   aromas   that   are   well-­‐defined.  The  palate  has  good  weight  on  the  entry,  with  subtle  notes  of  orange  zest,  dried   apricot,  quince   and   shaved   ginger.   It   builds   in   the  mouth,   delivering   a   very  focused,  intense   finish   that   you   could   say,   sits   comfortably   between   Old   World  and  New."      Catena  Alta  Cabernet  Sauvignon  2009  -­‐  92  points  "The  bouquet  is  understated  at  first,  drawing  you  in  and  then  building  with  aeration,  fomenting  blackberry,   wild   hedgerow,   wild   strawberry   and   smoke.   The   palate  is  medium-­‐bodied  with  crisp  tannins  on  the  entry.  It  is  imbued  with  fine  tension  and  focus,   leading   to   a   complex   finish   of   blackberry,   soy,   tobacco,   orange   peel  and  graphite.  It  is  imbued  with  a  sense  of  classicism,  especially  on  the  dry,  bell  pepper-­‐tinged  finish,  which  exhibits  great  length.  Superb."        CATENA  -­‐  HIGH  MOUNTAIN  VINES  -­‐  FROM  THE  CATENA  ZAPATA  FAMILY  VINEYARDS      Catena  Cabernet  Sauvignon  2010  -­‐  92  points  "It   has   a   Bordeaux-­‐like   bouquet   of   blackberry,   bilberry,   graphite  and   dry   tobacco  that   is   well-­‐defined   and   classic   in   style.   The   palate   is  medium-­‐bodied  with   grainy  tannins.  There  is  a  palpable  sense  of  tension  to  this  Cabernet,  which  exhibits  great  precision   on   the   spicy,   edgy   finish.   Full   of  personality,   this   comes   highly  recommended."      Catena  Malbec  2010  -­‐  91  points  "It  has  a  pellucid  bouquet  with  tangible  minerality:  notes  of  blackberry,  strawberry  cheesecake,  a  touch  of  cassis  and  violets.  The  palate  is  medium-­‐bodied  with  supple  tannins   on  the  entry.   The   acidity   is   crisp   and   lends   tautness   towards   the  succulent  finish,  which  bestows  blackberry,  black  olive  and  loganberry  fruit.  This   is  a  finely  crafted,  feminine  Malbec."      

Catena  Chardonnay  2011  -­‐  90  points  "It   demonstrates  great   clarity   on   the   nose   with   scents   of   dried   honey,   linden,  crushed   stone   and  dried   white   flowers.   The   palate   is   well-­‐balanced   with   crisp  acidity  and  is  a  taut,  focused  Chardonnay  with  lively  notes  of  tangerine  and  quince  towards  the  finish.  This  is  well-­‐crafted  and  complex  for  its  price  point."          

"MAKING  MALBEC  ON  THE  MOONSCAPE:  ARGENTINA  2012"      "The  diaphanous  lake  reflects  the  cloudless  blue.  To  my  right,  the  endless  moonscape  of  Argentinean  lowlands;  the  pampas  that  stretch  over  1,000km  to  the  Atlantic  and  to  my  left  the  skyscraping  snow-­‐capped  Andes,  an  imperious  barrier  that  signifies  the  end  of  the  world.  Around  me  the  land  is  jejune,  barren   and   infertile.   There   is   no   verdure,   no   hint   of   green;   forsaken   land   that   God   predesigned  inhospitable  to  all  but  the  odd  hardy  wild  fox.  However,  He  did  not  count  on  the  ingenuity  of  mankind  or   the   resilience   of   vitis   vinifera   because   together,   against   the   odds,   a   wine   region   has   risen   and  prospered  from  the  dust.  "    

History  New   World   or   Old   World?   For   convenience,   I   view   Argentina   as   the   former   since   it   has   come   to  international   prominence   over   the   last   two   decades.   However,  make   no  mistake   that   the   country’s  viticultural   heritage   goes   back   to   the   16th   century,   when   Spanish   immigrants   cultivated   vines   for  ecclesiastical  purposes.  Plantings  expanded  considerably  during  the  19th  century  due  to  the   influx  of  more   Spanish   and   Italian   immigrants   with   winemaking   in   their   blood.   Naturally,   they   blended   the  cultural  and  social  delights  of  fermented  grape  juice  into  their  new  homeland,  but  quality  was  not  the  imperative,   rather   it  was   rustic   fare   for  private   consumption.   Parallel   to  Rioja,   the  plethora  of   small  producers   predicated   larger   enterprises   that   commercialized   wine   on   a   national   basis.   They  congregated   upon   the   newly   irrigated   vineyard   of  Mendoza   and   transported   their  wines   to   Buenos  Aires  by  the  railroad  built   in  1882.  The  grape  varieties  were  mainly  from  France  rather  than  Spain  or  Italy.   One   would   expect   Mendoza   to   be   predominantly   Tempranillo   or   Sangiovese   given   its   socio-­‐demographic   composition   instead   of   the   15%   of   red   varietals   they   currently   represent.   Blame  Frenchman  Michel  Aimé  Pouget,  who  established   the   all-­‐important  Quinta  National   nursery   in   1853  and   imported   French   cuttings   such   as   Cabernet   Sauvignon,   Merlot   and,   of   course,   Malbec.   By   the  1930s,  approximately  60%  of  all  plantings  in  Mendoza  responded  to  the  name  “Malbec,”  testifying  that  its  sovereignty  is  no  recent  phenomenon.  

   

Unlike  Chile,  producers  were  blessed  with  a  domestic  market  where  wine  was  a  part  of  every  meal  and  everyday  life.  At  its  peak  in  the  1960s/1970s,  consumption  reached  an  astonishing  92  liters  per  head.  Who  needed  exports?  At  that  time,  Argentina  was  the  fifth  largest  producer  and  sixth  largest  consumer  of  wine.  However,  a  combination  of  political  upheaval  and  economic  strife  stymied  progress,  and  the  military  dictatorship  virtually  isolated  the  country  from  the  outside  world.      By  the  1980s,  the  industry  still  centered  upon  large  companies  such  as  Rutini  (then  entitled  Bodegas  y  Viñedos  La  Rural),  Trapiche  and  Luigi  Bosca  inter  alia,  all  of  which  exist  and  flourish  today.  The  pursuit  of   quality  was   rarely   undertaken,   but   there  was   change   underfoot.  Nicolás   Catena,   an   erudite   third  generation  wine  producer  with  a  doctorate  in  economics,  became  inspired  by  wines  from  beyond  his  country’s  borders,  in  particular  California.  He  radically  changed  the  philosophy  of  producing  bulk  wines  through  Bodega  Esmeralda  towards  premium  wines  that  aspired  to  something  more  than  drinkability,  and  he  achieved  great  success  and  international  recognition  in  the  process.      

   

During  the  1990s,  I  recall  the  susurrus  here  in  the  UK,  when  writers  noticed  an  upswing  in  quality,   in  particular  the  signature  variety,  Malbec.  Unsurprisingly,  the  melioration  was  contemporaneous  with  a  period  of   stability  when   the  currency  was  pegged  against   the  dollar,   thereby  making   its  wines  more  attractive  for  export  and  just  as  crucially,  for   investors  to  come  in.   I  remember  the  launch  of  Clos  de  

Los  Siete  in  1999  in  London,  the  first  mention  of  sub-­‐regions  such  as  the  Uco  Valley  and  Altamira;  word  of  sophisticated  Pinot  Noir  south  in  Patagonia  and  effervescent  Torrontés  north  in  Salta.  The  revolution  was  underway.  Here  in  the  UK,  journalists  began  devoting  column  inches  to  Argentina,  but  it  has  been  the  United   States  where   consumers   have   taken   its  wines   to   their   hearts,   in   particular   over   the   last  decade.    

Geography  

   

Latest  figures  show  that  70%  of  all  Argentinean  wine  originates  from  within  Mendoza’s  boundaries:  a  quantity  more   than   Bordeaux,   Napa   and   Burgundy   combined!   It   renders   other   Argentinean   regions  such  as  Salta  and  Patagonia  peripheral  in  quantita/tive  terms.  That  is  partly  down  to  the  long  history  of  viticulture  and  partly  down  to  the  quality  of   its  wines.  Given  the  expanse  of  this  appellation,   it   is  not  surprising  that  many  winemakers  regard  it  as  an  indefinable  region:  more  an  amalgam  of  sub-­‐regions,  terroirs  and  microclimates  that  are  only  just  being  discovered.  For  this  report  I  have  assigned  wines  as  originating   from   “Mendoza”   and   highlighted   sub-­‐regions   within   tasting   notes.   However,   in   future  reports  it  may  be  revealing  to  break  them  down  into  sub-­‐regions  in  similar  fashion  as  Bordeaux  wines  are  segmented  by  its  appellations.  The  key  to  Argentinean  wine  is  altitude,  and  quality  wines  are  really  consigned  to  cooler  areas  above  900  meters.  It  would  be  useful  to  outline  the  Indiciaciones  Geograficas  (IG),  with  accompanying  information  on  sub-­‐IG’s  and  soil  and  altitude.      •  Maipú  (13,900ha):  Lunlunta  and  Barrancas–  850-­‐900m  •   Luján   de   Cuyo   (13,470ha):   Vistalba,   Las   Compuertas,   Perdriel,   Agrelo   and   Ugarteche,   Agrelo   with  more  clay  –  920-­‐1,100m  •  Tupungato  (Uco  Valley  -­‐  8.995ha):  Villa  Bastías,  Gualtallary  (some  chalk,  calcareous  elements  in  soil),  Cordón  del  Plata  –  sandy-­‐loam  soils  but  no  clay  in  Gualtallary  –  900-­‐1,500m  •  Tunuyán  (Uco  Valley  -­‐7,250ha):  Los  Arboles,  Colonia  las  Rosas  and  Vista  Flores  (also  some  chalk  and  calcareous  soils  in  the  latter)  –  900-­‐1,300m  •   San   Carlos   (Uco   Valley   -­‐7,250ha):   La   Consulta,   Altamira   (some   chalk   and   calcareous   soils   in   Uco),  Eugenio  Bustos  and  El  Cepillo  –  950-­‐1,150m          

Vintage  Summaries  A  brief  synopsis  of  the  growing  seasons  is  in  order.      2010  –  There  was  a  little  coulure  early  in  the  season  that  affected  Malbec.    January  saw  the  mercury  rise  to  above  normal,  but  it  cooled  down  in  March  and  there  was  a  storm  on  March  19,  when  110mm  of   rain   fell   in   Tupungato.   The   sugar   accumulation   was   retarded   somewhat   towards   the   end   of   the  growth  cycle,  which  tended  to  lessen  potential  alcohol  levels  (at  least  generally  lower  than  2009).  The  red  wines  in  Mendoza  were  picked  one  or  two  weeks  later  than  normal,  and  this  was  even  more  the  case  down  in  Neuquén.      2011  –  There  was  a  strong  “Zonda,”  a  hot  dry  wind  that  swept  across  the  region  on  November  9,  which  led  to  a  major  front,  particularly  in  the  Uco  Valley  and  eastern  Mendoza.  The  summer  was  dry  and  cool,  and   this   retarded   the   growth   cycle   despite   a   sunny   April.   Average   yields   were   above   average,   but  because   of   the   natural   reduction   in   potential   yield,   there   was   less   incentive   for   green   harvesting.  Aromas  tend  to  be  floral  and  expressive,  and  on  the  palate  the  wines  are  tannic  and  concentrated  with  medium  to  high  pH  levels.  The  whites  tend  to  be  intense  and  zingy,  bringing  out  the  herbaceousness  of  Sauvignon  Blanc.      2012   –   Budding   started   evenly   with   a   small   frost   in   September.   It   was   marked   by   another   strong  “Zonda”  on  November  8,  followed  by  rain  fronts  that  interrupted  flowering  and  reduced  the  potential  yields,  especially  for  Malbec.  There  was  a  dip  in  temperatures  around  December,  though  it  warmed  up  in  January  and  February.  However,  a  predicted  early  harvest  did  not  materialize  and  the  pickers  were  out  in  the  vineyards  towards  the  end  of  April,  which  was  cool  and  dry.  It  was  a  slightly  smaller  vintage  than   average,   perhaps   around   22%   less   than   2011,   in   particular   in  Mendoza   in   respect   of  Malbec,  Bonarda   and   Syrah,   less   so   for   Cabernet   Sauvignon.   The   smaller   yields   engendered   deeper   colored,  slightly  more   tannic  wines.  White   grapes   tend   to   be   aromatic,  with   good   acidity   and   slightly   higher  concentration.          

To  Blend  Or  Not  To  Blend,  That  Is  The  Question  Let  us  cut  to  the  chase.  Is  it  a  risk  for  Argentina  to  put  all  its  eggs  into  one  basket,  to  pin  its  hopes  and  its  future  upon  one  single  grape  variety  based  on  past  success?  It  is  a  question  at  the  forefront  of  many  winemakers’  minds,  and  indeed  there  appears  no  consensus  whether  it  actually  needs  to  be  addressed.      “In  my  experience,”  commented  top  Argentinean  sommerlier  Andres  Rosberg,  “even  if  there  are  quite  a  few  producers  betting  almost  exclusively  on  Malbec,  most  people  are  working  hard  to  change  this,  and  depending  on  who  you  talk  to,  they  speak  of  Bonarda,  Torrontés,  Cabernet  Sauvignon,  Cabernet  Franc,  Tempranillo,  sparkling  and  so  on.”                  If   there   is   one   thing   that   I   learned  during  my   time   in  Argentina,   it   is   how  well  Malbec  marries  with  other  grape  varieties.  Take  Bonarda,  for  example.  Here  you  have  two  grape  varieties  synonymous  with  

Argentina   that   complement  each  other  with   style,   the  Bonarda  bringing  out   the  best   in  Malbec  and  vice  versa.  I  see  Malbec  as  the  bedrock  à  la  Cabernet  Sauvignon  and  Bonarda  as  its  blending  partner  à  la  Merlot.   This   is   an   avenue   of   enormous   potential   and   not   just  Malbec/Bonarda.  Malbec/Cabernet  Sauvignon  blends  are  also  impressive,  or  why  not  try  more  co-­‐ferments  with  Cabernet  Franc  or  Syrah  as   top  winemakers  are  now  doing,  often  with  great   success?  Andres  Rosberg  himself   is   intrigued  by  Tempranillo/Malbec  blends,  and  I  hope  to  taste  more  in  the  future.    

The  Bridesmaids  Excuse  the  title  of  the  piece  –  it  was  a  combination  of  ubiquity  and  alliteration  that  I  refer  to  Malbec  when,  in  fact,  Argentina  is  more  than  that.  So  let  us  examine  the  “bridesmaids”¼      Bonarda  was   the   red  grape  variety   that  arrived   in  Argentina  with  a   rather   indifferent   reception,  but  departed  with   its   praises   being   sung.   As   already  mentioned,   I   see   it   as   a   high   performing   blending  grape   variety   but   only   a   competent   “soloist.”   It   only   occasionally   transcends   its   limitations.   Perhaps  that   is   a   case   of   aligning   it   to   the   correct   soils   or   clones?   Similar   to   Merlot,   I   appreciate   its  approachability  and  roundness  in  the  mouth,  yet  it  is  difficult  to  see  it  as  anything  more  than  a  grape  that  offers  immediate  pleasure  unless  it  forms  part  of  a  blend.  But  for  sure,  overall  I  was  pleased  with  the  performances  of  many  Bonarda  wines  that  often  retail  at  great  value.        Cabernet  Franc  is  a  variety  that  many  winemakers  are  toying  with,  and  I  can  certainly  see  the  potential;  Argentina’s   climate   is   perfect   for   achieving   those   lovely   bell   pepper   notes  while   achieving   phenolic  ripeness.   Most   winemakers   still   view   Cabernet   Franc   as   a   blending   variety,   although   the   El   Gran  Enemigo  2009  from  Aleanna  demonstrated  the  heights  it  can  achieve  (though  you  could  argue  that  it  attested  as  much  to  the  art  of  assiduous  blending!)  Keeping  up  the  positive  tone,   I  was  also  pleased  with  the  progress  being  made  with  Torrontés.      “Torrontés  has  great  potential,  although  there  are  few  hectares  planted,”  continued  Marcelo  Pelleriti.  “We  are  discovering  old  vineyards  in  different  areas  of  Agentina  in  addition  to  Salta,  such  as  in  La  Rioja.  We   have   made   progress   in   terms   of   viticulture   and   vinification.   We   now   have   different   styles   of  Torrontés  and  gradually  we  are  going  to  achieve  more  elegance  and  bury  the  myth  that  the  only  way  to  make  good  Torrontés  is  with  high  yields.”        For   sure,   there   remain  many   examples  where   it   is   over-­‐cropped,   and   the   result   is   rather   bland   and  ineffectual.  However,  I  was  smitten  by  a  number  of  examples  where  it  offers  an  effervescent  quality  in  the  mouth,   racy   and   citric,   occasionally   endowed  with   an   exuberant   fruit   profile   not   a  million  miles  away  from  a  Gewürztraminer.  These  are  the  wines  that  really  demonstrated  the  potential  of  the  grape  variety  and  I  hope  to  see  more  in  the  future.  One  other  point  is  that  I  also  believe  it  is  a  fine  bedfellow  for  Chardonnay  –  lending  individuality  and  more  joie-­‐de-­‐vivre.        

Where  Do  We  Go  From  Here?  The   Mendozan   surface   is   a   vista   of   winemakers   content   that   their   Malbecs   are   selling   well   and  appreciated   by   critics   and   consumers   alike.   However,   under   these   calm   waters   change   is   afoot   as  winemakers  ask:  Where  do  we  go   from  here?  The  good  news   is   that   there  are  already  pioneers  and  thinkers;   inquisitive,   restless  minds;   risk-­‐taking  proprietors   and   adventurous   cellar  masters,  who   are  

providing  answers.  I  also  detected  a  soupçon  of  what  you  might  call  “Mediterranean  madness.”  It  is  a  form  of  unbridled  passion  spilling  over  into  obsession  that  lends  a  wine  region  its  dynamism.  You  could  argue  that  it  was  madness  to  plant  vines  in  such  a  desolate  landscape  in  the  first  place,  a  madness  that  continues  to  fuel  such  passion.      But  having  tasted  over  1,400  wines,  visited  numerous  wineries  and  kept  my  ears  and  eyes  open  myself;  I  present  my  own  conclusions.      Firstly,  Argentina  and  specifically  Mendoza  cannot  rely  on  past  success.  It  needs  to  reinvent  itself  in  the  eyes  of  consumers,  but  not  when  they  become  disinterested.  –  that  would  be  too  late.  They  need  to  be  pre-­‐emptive.  I  feel  that  at  the  moment,  too  many  wineries  kowtow  to  anything  that  consumers  want.  That  might  be  commercially  sound  and  less  stressful  for  their  accountants  or  importers.  Yet  it  leads  to  homogeneity  and  predictability.  Consumers  are  fickle  and  constantly  seek  the  “next  big  thing,”  so  they  must  be  brave  and  furrow  their  own  path  to  ensure  long-­‐term  survival  and  to  prevent  typecasting,  if  it  is  not  too  late  already.    Let  me  return  to  blending,  because  there  is  huge  untapped  potential  in  Argentina.      “Malbec  is  a  variety  that  can  age  very  well,  and  in  many  years  its  quality  increases  when  it  participates  in  blends  and  when  it  is  co-­‐fermented  with  other  varieties,”  opined  Marcelo  Pelleriti.  “It  enhances  the  characteristics  and  qualities  of  other  varietals.”        To  reiterate:  use  Malbec  as  your  foundation  and  marry  it  with  Bonarda,  Syrah  and  Cabernet  Sauvignon  as  liberally  as  you  desire.  There  are  so  many  avenues  that  remain  unexplored.  If  there  follows  greater  emphasis   on   blended   Malbec,   then   I   am   certain   that   wines   will   become   less   reliant   upon   human  intervention.   The   results   of   this   are   already   being   seen   by  winemakers   able   to   gain   greater   natural  acidity   through   the   addition   of   grapes   that   do   not   need   such   high   alcohol   levels   to   achieve  physiological   ripeness.   How   about   experimenting   with   whole   bunch   ferments?   Throw   in   those  (lignified)   stalks   –   play   around!   Blending   may   be   the   key   to   Argentina   discovering   wines   that   live,  evolve,  thrive  and  blossom  with  age,  but  you  will  not  know  unless  a)  you  go  out  and  do  it  and  b)  you  have   the   wherewithal   to   hold   back   some   stock   and   start   those   vertical   tastings   that   can   be   so  intellectually  as  well  as  sensorially  rewarding.  It  was  pleasing  to  see  top  estates  doing  exactly  this,  and  I  encourage  them  to  continue.      

On  Oak  Ageing  Nothing   illustrated   this   shift   (from   excessive   oak   use)   more   than   at   Bodegas   Nicolás   Catena,   when  Alejandro  Vigil   compared   the  oak   regime  of  his   splendid   recent   releases   to   those   ten  years  ago.  For  example,  the  flagship  Catena  Zapata  once  boasted  200%  new  oak,  now  it   is  down  to  60%  and  having  tasted  example  from  both  eras,  it  is  today’s  wines  that  are  far  more  personality  driven,  expressive  and  with  great  aging  potential.  There  are  many  others  following  suit  and  Argentina  will  be  making  superior  wines  for  it.      This  report  (including  those  notes  relegated  to  www.erobertparker.com  due  to  space  limitations  in  the  print  edition)  contains  tasting  notes  of  over  900  wines  that  made  the  grade,  and  though  I  tasted  a  great  

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result  in  harshness  for  a  Cabernet  Sauvignon.    Also,  high  altitude  vineyards  with  intense  sun  exposure  like  Adrianna   in  Gualtallary   -­‐   Tupungato   -­‐   can   be   harvested  much   earlier   than  we   thought,   because  ripeness  is  made  possible  by  the  sunlight.  These  wines  can  have  optimal  tannin  levels  with  exuberant  fruit  and  perfect  natural  alcohol/acid  balance.      So   going   back   to   the   history   of   the   last   12   to   15   years,   our   first   step  was   to   understand   this   basic  difference  between  Cabernet  Sauvignon  and  Malbec  and  how  Malbec  should  be  treated  differently.  In  the  beginning  we  started  to  produce  wines  that  highlighted  the  aromatic  characteristics  of  the  variety:  the   ripe   fruits,  notes  of   violet  and  overall   round   tannins.  Years  passed,  and  now  we  have  extremely  drinkable  wines  that  give  us  a  unique  profile  made  of  tamed,  round  tannins  that  preserve  the  true  fruit  essence   of   the   grape   and   its   behaviour   in   our   high   altitude   terroir   (this   is   all   the  more   interesting  because  historically  Malbec  has  been  known  as  a  rustic  overly  tannic  wine).      And  now,  getting  back  to  your  question  about  the  aging  process,  we  wondered,  how  many  years  could  we  age  these  wines?    Are  they  appropriate  for  aging?  Well,  we  started  working  on  this  idea  -­‐  after  all,  historically,  since  the  Middle  Ages,  Malbec  has  been  known  for  its  aging  potential.      Particularly,  we  looked  into  the  idea  of  having  less  overripe  wines,  planting  in  cooler  climates  (Nicolas  Catena   was   the   first   to   dare   to   plant   in   extreme   high   altitudes   in   the   nineties).   We   realized   that  through  judicious  vineyard  management,  as  the  high  altitude  vineyards  got  older,  we  were  harvesting  perfectly   ripe   fruit,   3   to   4  weeks   earlier   than   before.    Also,  we   found   that   if   we   picked   the   perfect  harvest  time  for  each  lot,  we  could  even  use  whole  clusters  to  increase  concentration  and  monomeric  tannins  (necessary  for  aging)  without  losing  the  round  tannins.    So  I  am  confident  that  Malbec  can  age,  but  not  just  any  Malbec  from  Mendoza.    There  must  be  consideration  for  the  region,  altitude,  soil,  age  of  the  vineyard,  plant  population  and  winemaking/viticultural  practices.        Blending  -­‐  are  Argentinean  winemakers  afraid  to  blend  because  a  label  with  "Malbec"  sells  the  wine?  Is  this  a  missed  opportunity?      I   believe   that   blends   certainly   have   their   role   in   the   ever-­‐evolving   process   of   understanding   wine  making.  Blending  is  an  art  that  takes  a  long  time  to  master,  and  you  need  to  truly  know  the  varieties  to  do  it  well.    If  you  look  at  people  who  have  done  it  successfully,  they  start  with  the  variety.  And  as  they  learn  the  land  and  the  way  the  variety  develops  there,  they  are  ultimately  able  to  create  a  beautifully  balanced   blend   of   very   high   quality.   Blends   here   in   Argentina   are   still   very   much   a   new   practice.  Without  a  doubt  we  have   complementary   varieties,   including   the  Bonarda  and  Cabernet   Franc,   that  have  great  potential  to  play  a  part  in  Argentinean  blends  in  the  near  future.          If  you  look  at  the  sales   in  Europe,  Malbec  is   less  dominant  than  in  the  US,  and  there  are  many  other  varieties  and  blends  being  sold   from  Argentina.   In   the  US,  Malbec   is   the  dominant  Argentine  variety  being  sold.    I  like  to  think  that  if  I  make  a  very  good  wine,  people  will  buy  it.    Malbec  is  a  very  drinkable  wine   that   has   an   attractive   flavor,   but   many   excellent   blends   can   also   be   made   here   in  Mendoza.  Perhaps  there  will  be  more  of  a  combination  of  single  varieties  and  blends  in  the  future.      Should  Mendoza  winemakers  just  accept  that  they  will  always  have  to  acidify?  Or  are  there  techniques,  

either  in  vineyard  management  or  in  the  winery  that  can  naturally  increase  acidity?      Absolutely   not.   Acidification   is   a   practice   that   has   to   do   with   late   harvests,   harvests   that   in   turn  produce  wines   that   have   a   huge   imbalance   between   alcohol   and   acidity.    It’s   an   age-­‐old   perception  that  higher  alcohol  content  means  better  quality  in  a  wine.  In  Mendoza,  you  can  harvest  in  such  a  way  that  acidification  isn’t  necessary.  If  we  manage  and  develop  the  vineyards  in  a  certain  way,  we’ll  find  that  we  really  shouldn’t  have  to  alter  the  wine,  or  at  least  not  every  time.      But  to  put  it  graphically,  I  remember  many  years  ago  my  grandfather  teaching  me  about  wine.    The  two  things  he  loved  were,  first,  what  he  called  complexity,  and  the  second  thing  was  that  he  loved  to  drink  lots  of  wine  with  friends.  This   last  thing  was  not  something  that  he  said  by  chance;   I   remember  that  these  meetings  lasted  between  4  to  5  hours  where  they  ate  and  drank  a  lot.  For  this  he  needed  wines  which  he  called  fresh  (good  acidity)  and  with  low  alcohol  (it  would  take  two  or  three  liters  to  quench  the  thirst  of  the  raw  ham).  Well,  how  did  he  achieve  this  with  his  wines?  Something  basic  and  with  a  lot  of  common  sense,  he  left  more  kilograms  per  plant,  this  helped  to  have  a  slow  maturation,  with  low  alcohol  and  high  acidity.      Years  have  passed  and  I  came  to  Catena,  where  I  learned  much  of  what  I  know  today.  In  the  nineties  there  was  a  belief  here  in  Argentina  that  a  good  wine  had  to  be  highly  concentrated,  high  in  alcohol,  powerful,  explosive.    Doctor  Catena,  Laura  and  I  spent  a  lot  of  time  drinking  old  Burgundies  and  many  wines  from  Bordeaux  that  the  Doctor  would   import  for  our  "research";  Laura  brought  wines  from  all  over  the  world  every  time  that  she  flew  from  the  United  States  to  Argentina.  We  began  to  talk  about  the  wines   that  we   liked   the  most,   and   they  were   subtler  with   good   tannin/alcohol/acidity   balance.  They  were  aromatic  and  memorable.   I  made  a   trip   to  Burgundy,  where   I  was  surprised   to  see  many  different   things   in   the   vineyards   -­‐   they   did   very   little   manipulation   of   yields;   they   were   harvesting  earlier  than  I  would  have  imagined.  Over  the  years  at  Catena,  we  have  worked  to  harvest  each  parcel  at  the  right  time,  depending  on  the  soil/climate  of  the  site;  not  to  manipulate;  to  harvest  earlier.    We  also  bring  out  the  freshness  in  the  wine  with  practices  such  as  whole  cluster  fermentation  with  low  pH,  use  of  the  white  wine  lees  during  fermentation  of  reds  and  shorter  macerations.  In  the  end  we  go  back  to  what  my  grandfather  prized,  the  perfect  combination  of  freshness  and  complexity.        Terroir  -­‐  Argentina  can  never  truly  express  individual  terroirs  unless  winemakers  are  more  committed  to  reducing  irrigation  and  forcing  vines  roots  deeper  into  the  ground.  Is  that  a  true  statement?      It  is  a  conceptual  discussion  about  the  terroir,  but  I  think  that  we  have  the  possibility  to  clearly  express  the  terroir  in  Mendoza  and  Argentina.  We  have  two  fundamental  points  to  characterize  the  area.  The  first   and   fundamental   characteristic   of   our   terroir   is   the   altitude;   this   parameter   acts   over   the  temperature,  soil,  moisture  and  essentially  the  human  being.  This  last  one  determines  the  handling  of  the   crop   by   experience   gained   generation   after   generation,   learning   the   idiosyncrasies   of   each   lot  within  each  vineyard  and  how  to  irrigate  it.  The  practice  of   irrigation  in  Mendoza  has  more  than  500  years:  a  complex  network  of  channels  organized  by  the  indigenous  people  today  remains  the  basis  of  the  distribution  of  water  in  the  province,  an  extremely  complex  system  that  uses  the  pure  water  from  the  mountains.  But  without  a  doubt,  the  handling  has  taken  a  while  and  at  this  stage  the  technology  has  helped  us.  Also,  30  years  ago  we  used  more  than  1500  mm  of  water  per  hectare  and  today  there  

are   areas   where   we   use   no   more   than   400   mm.   This   undoubtedly   has   helped   to   achieve   the   real  balance  of  the  plant  within  each  zone  and  is  giving  us  the  opportunity  to  express  the  characteristics  of  the  terroir  of  each  vineyard  and  of  sub-­‐parcels  within  a  vineyard.   I   remember  measuring   in   the  tank  the   evapo-­‐transpiration,   then   using   the   Scholander   pump   that  measures   the   potential   water   in   the  plant,  and  today  we  measure  the  sap  flow  in  the  trunk.  In  conclusion,  there  is  a  better  management  of  water,  and  I  think  that  there  are  oenologists  and  wine  growers  committed  to  have  wines  of  terroir.      So   I   agree   that   in   Mendoza,   where   viticulture   would   not   be   possible   without   irrigation,   judicious  management  of  water  is  key  to  expressing  each  vineyard  and  each  individual  lot's  terroir.      —Neal  Martin