7
A PRIMARY SOURCE FOR THE SERIOUS SEWIST For over 80 years Vogue Patterns has been a style leader and the primary fashion resource for information and inspiration for those who take their sewing seriously. The Designer Difference Vogue Patterns is the leading sewing magazine reporting on current season styles and future trends from top-name designers including Donna Karan, Ralph Rucci, Badgley Mischka, Kay Unger, Guy Laroche as well as authentic vintage designs. Vogue Patterns lets our readers create runway looks for their real world. Editorial Contributors Providing Education and Inspiration Industry leaders like Sandra Betzina, Claire Shaeffer, Marcy Tilton and Kathryn Brenne share their expert advice (and outstanding sense of style) whether it’s about fabulous fit, couture techniques or creative construction. Vogue Patterns is the influential sewing source and advertising partner for your brand. FREQUENCY: 6 issues per year. CURRENT READERSHIP: 60,000 EDITORIAL PROFILE IN EVERY ISSUE, VOGUE PATTERNS MAGAZINE: Features 30-40 pages of runway inspired fashions by top-name American and international designers. Teams up with influential contributors from the sewing community reporting on the forefront of fashion design, trends, ‘how to’ techniques, fitting advice, creative tips, new products and more. Includes essential resource lists of manufacturers and featured patterns to purchase through our e-commerce site, www.voguepattern.mccall.com EDITORIAL COLUMNS: Must Haves – A collage of tools, notions and accessories— from the utilitarian to the newest product innovations. Web Watch – Our collection of online resources offering unique products and sewing tutorials to help build skills. Star Blogger – Features exceptional sewing mentors from the online creative community demonstrating inside tips and the process of a project. What Are You Sewing? – Personal snapshots of our fashionable readers proudly wearing their latest creation. Destination Shopping – Highlights Fabric & Notions retail stores in various cities across the country. THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE VOGUEPATTERNS.COM APRIL/MAY 2015 THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE SILVER SPRINGS TOOLS OF THE TRADE: SERGER SENSE PART 1 OF 4 BUYING GUIDE MASTER CLASS: SEWING FINE KNITS FREE PATTERN OFFER SEE PAGE 88 FOR DETAILS THE HOTTEST COLOR OF THE SEASON 46 This page: The latest from Tom & Linda Platt is perfect for showcasing a treasured lace. Simple and stunning. V1428, Misses’ 8–24. Earrings: Roberta Chiarella. Ring: Anne Koplik. Handbag: Urban Expressions. Next page: Pamella Roland offers graphic modern styling in a romantic tea length. V1425, Misses’ 6–22. Earrings: Anne Koplik. Bracelet: RJ Graziano. Handbag: Urban Expressions. Shoes: Nina. TOM & LINDA PLATT 47 PAMELLA ROLAND DESTINATION SHOPPING 18 VOGUE PATTERNS P ortland, Oregon is a small city bursting with creativity. Widely recognized for its thriving food and drink culture and “outdoorsy” locals, the city also abounds with visual and performing arts and has a rich appreciation for handcrafted goods of all types. In accordance with the drizzly local climate, Portland’s garment scene is strongly oriented toward performance and outdoor clothing, and has spawned industry giants such as Jantzen, White Stag, Pendleton, and Columbia Sportswear. The Portland area is also the “silicon valley” of the sport shoe industry, home to the US headquarters of Adidas and the world headquarters of Nike (which originated two hours south of Portland, at the University of Oregon track department). But don’t think performance gear is all you’ll find here—while Portland has plenty to offer for outerwear enthusiasts, its strong tradition of home sewing and craft makes it a gold mine for discerning fabric shoppers of all kinds. In addition to well-curated local boutiques, you’ll find super-sized independent stores packed with treasures, an assortment of niche outlets, and even top-notch designer textiles. An extra perk: no sales tax in Oregon! Button Emporium & Ribbonry 1016 SW Taylor Street Portland, OR 97205 (503) 228-6372 buttonemporium.com Hours: Tuesday through Friday 10:30am to 5:30pm; Saturday 11am to 3pm Located right in the heart of down- town, the Button Emporium and Ribbonry is an eclectic world filled with petite treasures. They have thousands of buttons to choose from, whether you favor heirloom sewing, period costume re-cre- ation, or just adding a fine, personal touch to new or existing garments. Take a moment to peruse their but- ton gallery full of precious metals, porcelain, bone, hand-etched natu- ral shells, wood, antique Satsuma buttons from Japan, Damascene buttons from Spain, and elegant cameos. They also carry some fabrics and fine laces, as well as a huge supply of embroidery silks, European jacquard trims, and beautiful ribbons both classic and contemporary. You’ll receive highly personalized service from owners Marvis and Keith, who make a mission of uniting these gems with the right owner. Purchase or bring your own fabric and these artists will painstakingly help you to select the ideal buttons and trims. Marvis also prides herself on teaching shoppers how to use buttons and embellishments to breathe fresh life into an old garment or thrift store purchase. This shop is a must for all crafters, sewers, and quilters. Rose City Textiles 2515 NW Nicolai Street Portland, OR 97210 (503) 224-5666 fabricline.com Hours: Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm; Saturday 10am to 4pm Rose City Textiles, located in the industrial section of northwest Portland, has been in business for over 30 years and specializes in quality outerwear and activewear fabrics. The pride and joy of this store is a huge—no, really huge— selection of performance and all-weather fabrics, including nylon lycra®, waxed cottons, moisture- wicking jersey, poly-microfibers, fleece, ripstop, neoprene, and on and on. Environmentally conscious crafters will appreciate the selec- tion of organic and recycled fibers. They even carry notions and trims Fabric Finds in Portland Button Emporium and Ribbonry BY CHRISTINE RULLI to finish your project, including silicone trim, reflective tape, and specialty zippers in reflective, water-resistant, and reversible-coil varieties. The staff is knowledge- able and enthusiastic about their unique offerings, and they’ll send swatches anywhere in the US and Canada within 48 hours. Goods are offered at both retail and wholesale prices, depending on how much you need. Bolt 2136 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 (503) 287-BOLT boltneighborhood.com Hours: Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm; Saturday 10am to 5pm; Sunday 11am to 4pm This fresh, contemporary Alberta Arts District shop packs a lot of punch for a small store. Bolt of- fers a highly curated selection of fabrics, notions, books, patterns, and supplies “that will bring your imagination to life in cloth and stitches.” The fabrics are attractively displayed on wooden shelves, and the knowledgeable staff will help guide you through selecting just the right items for your project. Bolt feels like a neighborhood shop, but the quality offerings also make it a destination for those looking for something special. The Whole 9 Yards 1820 East Burnside Street Portland, OR 97214 (503) 223-2880 w9yards.com Hours: Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm; Saturday 10am to 5pm Stop in here for an inspiring collec- tion of interior decorating fabrics, trims, and custom furniture. They stock over a thousand fabrics including chenilles, tapestries, jac- quards, silks, sheers, and velvets, and also offer special orders from their collection of fabric samples. You’ll be blown away by the variety of their whimsical and clas- sical trims and tassels. The store features an in-house workroom, and you can have furniture built from scratch. The parking lot is a convenient bonus! View their blog and website for sample projects that show off the ingenuity of their design department. Cool Cottons 2417 SE Hawthorne Boulevard Portland, OR 97214 (503) 232-0417 coolcottons.biz Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10am to 6pm; Thursday 12pm to 8pm; Sunday 12pm to 5pm. Thread your way south to the vi- brant Hawthorne District and you’ll find Cool Cottons, an independent fabric boutique housed in a charm- ing 1911 home. The focus here is on modern prints in bold shades, suit- able for quilting, crafting, sewing, and collecting. Some of their favor- ite designers are Alexander Henry, Art Gallery, Birch Organics, Cloud 9 Organics, Free Spirit, Kokka, Mi- chael Miller, Moda, Robert Kaufman and Westminster Fabrics. They are especially proud of their selection of Japanese cotton imports. You’ll find whimsical Matryoshka doll prints, multiple “Frieda” patterns, an assortment of seaside-themed goods, vintage camping prints, ar- chitectural designs, and even “pin- ups.” Even if you come in without a project in mind, you may find yourself stocking up because the prints they carry are so darn cool! If you’re browsing from afar, viewing their “new arrivals” page will stimulate your creativity while bringing a smile to your face. This colorful fabric destination is very well organized and has person- able staff. Josephine’s Dry Goods 3050 SE Division Street Portland, OR 97202 (503) 224-4202 www.josephinesdrygoods.com Hours: Monday through Saturday 11am to 6pm; Sunday 12pm to 5pm Portland sewers mourned when this downtown institution shut its doors in 2013. Fortunately for connoisseurs of fine garment fabrics, it has now reopened in a bright, compact space on SE Division. New owners Bini and Dana Leach have worked with Judith Head, previous owner of some 37 years, to ensure that the new location continues in the top-tier tradition of the old. Look for elegant suiting fabrics in wool and cashmere, printed and textured silks, linens, luxury blends, Japanese selvage den- im, and a spectacular selection from Liberty of London. Prices can be formidable, but you’re paying for the best. Handwritten labels indicate the fiber content and width as well as the original designer where appropriate. You’ll also find a select assort- ment of buttons and trims and high-quality notions from Merchant and Mills. Bolt DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 19 Rose City Textiles TOOLS & TECHNIQUES 20 VOGUE PATTERNS Blade Runner A Comprehensive Guide to Rotary Cutters, Blades, Sharpeners and Mats. BY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG F irst introduced by Olfa in 1979, the rotary cutter has taken the quilting and sewing world by storm as an alternative to scissors and shears. This versatile tool can slice your cutting time in half when compared with traditional scissors. If you have friends who quilt, chances are you are familiar with these tools, but may have never thought of them for your own sewing arsenal. It’s time to think again because rotary cutters can be a great tool for every sewing room. Rotary cutters can be used on all types of fabrics, from quilting cottons and wool to leather and synthetics, and they can cut mul- tiple layers at a time. For the garment sewer, rotary cutters are especially beneficial when working with lightweight and slippery fabrics that squirm during scissor cutting. Movement of the fabric and pattern when the blades lift them from the table can distort the cut edge. When you use a rotary cutter the fabric stays flat against the cutting surface, so cutting can be more precise. This is also ideal for cutting synthetic or real leather and suede, or any other fabric that would be marred by pins, because the fabric and patterns can be held down by weights, avoiding pins altogether. Finally, rotary cutters are beneficial for sewers with arthritis who may have difficulty with the repetitive motion of cutting with scissors and shears. SIZE MATTERS There are several sizes of rotary cutters and cutting blades available. Most brands offer sizes from 18mm to 65mm diameter. Smaller blades work best for cutting curves and pat- tern details like necklines and armholes, while larger blades make quick work of long, straight cuts like skirt seams, making your own bias binding, etc. New on the market is a fingertip mini rotary cutter with a permanent 18 mm- diameter blade. The cutter fits over the finger and is held like a pencil to give precise con- trol—perfect for delicate fabrics and detailed cutting areas. Just as you have more than one size and shape of scissor in your toolbox, the same can hold true for rotary cutters. TAKE SHAPE Rotary cutters come in different shapes, sizes and colors, depending on the brand. Some offer simple straight rigid handles, others have a curved handle of one configuration or anoth- er, and still others have cushioned or padded handles or gripper-handle activated blades. Some handles are looped for easier holding. Many cutters work equally well for both left- and right-handed cutting (with switchable blade positions) while other brands are specific to one or the other, so be sure to research sev- eral brands to determine a good fit for your needs. The choice depends on what’s comfort- able in your hand. If possible, it’s a good idea to try out several before you make a decision on which ones to purchase. Manufacturers are continually coming up with new features. One company offers a rota- ry cutter with a built-in LED light for cutting dark fabrics or in poor light. Another offers a 1Imaginisce CutBright LED lighted 45mm. 2Fiskars Titanium curved handle 45mm. 3 Omnigrid cushion handle, pressure sensitive 45mm. 4Fiskars Ergo Control heavy duty 60mm. 5 Olfa Splash quick blade change 45mm. 6Sullivans Cutting Edge 45mm. 7 Havel’s fingertip lock trig- ger 45mm. 8Gingher left-hand 45mm. 9Clover slender 18mm. 10 The Grace Company comfort cutter 60mm. 11 Fiskars fingertip control 18mm. APRIL/MAY 2014 21 TOOLS & TECHNIQUES 1 2 3 4 5 6 11 10 9 8 7 EQUIPMENT ESSENTIALS APRIL/MAY 2014 29 I f you are thinking about buy- ing a sewing machine, you are going to love your choices! If you already own a sewing machine, you will be amazed at how mod- ern technology has improved the basic sewing mechanics of even the most economical machines, while adding cutting-edge features to high-end com- puterized models. Where do you start on your quest for the perfect sewing machine? There are so many choices at so many price points that you can certainly find a sewing machine that fills your needs and creative potential. Use this guide and the comparison charts on the fol- lowing pages as a starting point in the search for the machine of your dreams. Whether you’re a weekend dabbler, cre- ative quilter, or hard-core sewing pro- fessional, there is a machine out there to fit your needs and budget. SHOP AROUND Typically, if you grew up sewing on a certain brand, you might want to start investigating updates to that particular brand, but it’s also a good idea to inves- tigate and test-sew a few competing brands. A basic sewing machine might be a good idea for a new sewer, but you might be better served by a machine with features that will help you develop your sewing skills beyond mending and sewing straight seams. In many cases the look and feel of the machine are the ultimate deciding factor for purchasing, so test out sev- eral before making your choice. Start your shopping by looking at advertise- ments and asking other sewers for their recommendations. By typing “sewing machine reviews” in your search engine and you will find thousands of results on the Internet. One result led us to a blog (sewmamasew.com) that we found particularly interesting. It asked people to review their own machine and post it to the site. At last count there were 46 machine reviews from people just like you at sewmamasew.com/2013/10/ sewing-machine-reviews/, and a similar survey taken over a year ago had hun- dreds of reviews. When you’re ready to buy, a reputable sewing machine dealer is your best bet, and can be an invaluable partner, offer- ing classes, routine maintenance and repairs, not to mention quick answers to questions. Many dealers also offer trade-ins and upgrades. Most manu- facturers offer a 25-year warranty, so building a relationship with your dealer makes economical sense. Most dealers only offer one or two brands, so you will have to travel from store to store to make comparisons. On the other hand, sewing shows offer a unique opportuni- ty because they usually have represen- tatives from all the major manufactur- ers, allowing you to try out a variety of machines at different price points all in one place. And, there are often “show” specials to sweeten the deal. Some of the larger fabric stores also have good sewing machine departments with a few brands and knowledgeable sales staff. They offer many of the benefits of dedicated dealers including lessons and service. Quality sewing machines are also available at mass merchandis- ers like Sears and Wal-Mart, but selec- tion is usually limited to very basic Sewing Machine Shopping Guide A Comprehensive Comparison of the Newest Machines from Economy to Top-of-the-Line. BY BETH BAUMGARTEL NET-WORKING 14 VOGUE PATTERNS Web Watch A collection of online resources for stocking your stash and building your skills. For designer dress fabrics at their finest, it’s hard to do better than THE FABRIC STORE (thefabricstoreusa.com). This Los-Angeles-based branch of a New Zealand company is a renowned source for its home country’s famed merino jersey, as well as other natural fibers including silks, cottons, linens, and wools, plus a sprinkling of novelties like sequined fabrics and leather. A gorgeous gallery displays fabric swatches inter- spersed with runway and street fashion inspira- tions, and check the “featured specials” page for bargain-priced offerings. If you’re looking for a new podcast to keep you company while you sew, drop in on THREAD CULT (threadcult.com), hosted by journalist Christine Cyr Clisset. The 45-minute segments are all themed around sewing, fashion, and textiles, and feature guests specializing in sewing machines, refashion- ing, color, historic costume, and more, including an interview with Vogue Patterns designer and couture expert Claire Shaeffer. Learn about sewing on silk, making jeans, or sewing with bias, or take a “field trip” to an exhibit at Fashion Institute of Technology in New York or a mill in the Carolinas. There’s something here to please almost any sewing interest. Wrestling an iron can get you only so far—for real, crisp, long-lasting pleats you need a professional. Fortunately, INTERNATIONAL PLEATING (internationalpleating.com) will take care of all your fabric manipulation needs. This 83-year-old family- owned company specializes in all things pleating, from pleated yardage to sample development, and will happily tackle small custom orders for hobbyists and students. Check out their blog, sample gallery, and free ebooks for a bounty of information and inspiration, and stop by their Etsy shop for an eclectic selection of fabrics and trims. They even offer an iPhone app to help calculate measurements for pleated skirts. Who doesn’t dream of creating the perfect sewing room, with space for all our treasures and doors to hide it all away when it’s not needed? GO ORGANIZE(go-organize.com) is a one- stop shop for organization fiends, stocking cubes, shelves, desks, cabinets, doors, drawers, carts, and everything you need to get your stash under control once and for all. You’ll find plenty of op- tions to suit your dream decor, whether you’re looking for contemporary white or black finishes or a more traditional wood look. And, even better, it’s delivered right to your door ready to assemble and install. Contact Maria Triantafillou, Advertising Sales at (212) 465-6849 or [email protected] MEDIA KIT

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A primAry source for the serious sewist

For over 80 years Vogue Patterns has been a style leader and the primary fashion resource for information and inspiration for those who take their sewing seriously.

The Designer DifferenceVogue Patterns is the leading sewing magazine reporting on current season styles and future trends from top-name designers including Donna Karan, Ralph Rucci, Badgley Mischka, Kay Unger, Guy Laroche as well as authentic vintage designs. Vogue Patterns lets our readers create runway looks for their real world.

Editorial Contributors Providing Education and InspirationIndustry leaders like Sandra Betzina, Claire Shaeffer, Marcy Tilton and Kathryn Brenne share their expert advice (and outstanding sense of style) whether it’s about fabulous fit, couture techniques or creative construction. Vogue Patterns is the influential sewing source and advertising partner for your brand.

FREQUENCY: 6 issues per year.

CURRENT READERSHIP: 60,000

eDitoriAL profiLeIN EVERY ISSUE, VOGUE PATTERNs MAGAZINE:

Features 30-40 pages of runway inspired fashions by top-name American and international designers.

Teams up with influential contributors from the sewing community reporting on the forefront of fashion design, trends, ‘how to’ techniques, fitting advice, creative tips, new products and more.

Includes essential resource lists of manufacturers and featured patterns to purchase through our e-commerce site, www.voguepattern.mccall.com

EDIToRIAL CoLUMNS:

Must Haves – A collage of tools, notions and accessories— from the utilitarian to the newest product innovations.

Web Watch – our collection of online resources offering unique products and sewing tutorials to help build skills.

Star Blogger – Features exceptional sewing mentors from the online creative community demonstrating inside tips and the process of a project.

What Are You Sewing? – Personal snapshots of our fashionable readers proudly wearing their latest creation.

Destination Shopping – Highlights Fabric & Notions retail stores in various cities across the country.

The UlTimaTe Sewing magazine

VO

GU

E PATTER

NS

VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

APRIL/M

AY 2015

APRIL/MAY 2015

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

SILVERSPRINGS

TOOLS OF THE TRADE:

SERGERSENSEPART 1 OF 4 BUYING GUIDE

MASTER CLASS:

SEWING FINE KNITS

FREE PATTERN

OFFERSEE PAGE 88FOR DETAILS

THE HOTTEST COLOR OF THE SEASON

46

WW

W.V

OG

UEP

ATTE

RN

S.C

OM

H

AIR

AN

D M

AK

EUP:

JO

SEPH

BO

GG

ESS

This page: The latest from Tom & Linda Platt is perfect for showcasing a treasured lace. Simple and stunning. V1428, Misses’ 8–24. Earrings: Roberta Chiarella. Ring: Anne Koplik. Handbag: Urban Expressions.

Next page: Pamella Roland offers graphic modern styling in a romantic tea length. V1425, Misses’ 6–22. Earrings: Anne Koplik. Bracelet: RJ Graziano. Handbag: Urban Expressions. Shoes: Nina.

TO

M &

LIN

DA

PL

AT

T

47

PA

ME

LL

A R

OL

AN

D

DESTINATION SHOPPING

18 VOGUE PATTERNS

Portland, Oregon is a small city bursting with creativity. Widely recognized for its thriving food and drink culture and “outdoorsy” locals, the city also abounds with visual and performing arts and has a rich appreciation for handcrafted goods of all types. In accordance with the drizzly local climate, Portland’s garment scene is strongly oriented toward performance and outdoor clothing, and has spawned industry giants

such as Jantzen, White Stag, Pendleton, and Columbia Sportswear. The Portland area is also the “silicon valley” of the sport shoe industry, home to the US headquarters of Adidas and the world headquarters of Nike (which originated two hours south of Portland, at the University of Oregon track department). But don’t think performance gear is all you’ll find here—while Portland has plenty to offer for outerwear enthusiasts, its strong tradition of home sewing and craft makes it a gold mine for discerning fabric shoppers of all kinds. In addition to well-curated local boutiques, you’ll find super-sized independent stores packed with treasures, an assortment of niche outlets, and even top-notch designer textiles. An extra perk: no sales tax in Oregon!

Button Emporium & Ribbonry

1016 SW Taylor Street

Portland, OR 97205

(503) 228-6372

buttonemporium.com

Hours: Tuesday through Friday

10:30am to 5:30pm;

Saturday 11am to 3pm

Located right in the heart of down-

town, the Button Emporium and

Ribbonry is an eclectic world fi lled

with petite treasures. They have

thousands of buttons to choose

from, whether you favor heirloom

sewing, period costume re-cre-

ation, or just adding a fi ne, personal

touch to new or existing garments.

Take a moment to peruse their but-

ton gallery full of precious metals,

porcelain, bone, hand-etched natu-

ral shells, wood, antique Satsuma

buttons from Japan, Damascene

buttons from Spain, and elegant

cameos. They also carry some

fabrics and fi ne laces, as well as a

huge supply of embroidery silks,

European jacquard trims, and

beautiful ribbons both classic and

contemporary. You’ll receive highly

personalized service from owners

Marvis and Keith, who make a

mission of uniting these gems with

the right owner. Purchase or bring

your own fabric and these artists

will painstakingly help you to select

the ideal buttons and trims. Marvis

also prides herself on teaching

shoppers how to use buttons and

embellishments to breathe fresh

life into an old garment or thrift

store purchase. This shop is a must

for all crafters, sewers, and quilters.

Rose City Textiles

2515 NW Nicolai Street

Portland, OR 97210

(503) 224-5666

fabricline.com

Hours: Monday through Friday

9am to 5pm;

Saturday 10am to 4pm

Rose City Textiles, located in the

industrial section of northwest

Portland, has been in business for

over 30 years and specializes in

quality outerwear and activewear

fabrics. The pride and joy of this

store is a huge—no, really huge—

selection of performance and

all-weather fabrics, including nylon

lycra®, waxed cottons, moisture-

wicking jersey, poly-microfi bers,

fl eece, ripstop, neoprene, and on

and on. Environmentally conscious

crafters will appreciate the selec-

tion of organic and recycled fi bers.

They even carry notions and trims

Fabric Finds in Portland

Button Emporium and Ribbonry

BY CHRISTINE RULLI

to fi nish your project, including

silicone trim, refl ective tape, and

specialty zippers in refl ective,

water-resistant, and reversible-coil

varieties. The staff is knowledge-

able and enthusiastic about their

unique offerings, and they’ll send

swatches anywhere in the US and

Canada within 48 hours. Goods

are offered at both retail and

wholesale prices, depending on

how much you need.

Bolt

2136 NE Alberta Street

Portland, OR 97211

(503) 287-BOLT

boltneighborhood.com

Hours: Monday through Friday

10am to 6pm;

Saturday 10am to 5pm;

Sunday 11am to 4pm

This fresh, contemporary Alberta

Arts District shop packs a lot of

punch for a small store. Bolt of-

fers a highly curated selection of

fabrics, notions, books, patterns,

and supplies “that will bring

your imagination to life in cloth

and stitches.” The fabrics are

attractively displayed on wooden

shelves, and the knowledgeable

staff will help guide you through

selecting just the right items

for your project. Bolt feels like

a neighborhood shop, but the

quality offerings also make it a

destination for those looking for

something special.

The Whole 9 Yards

1820 East Burnside Street

Portland, OR 97214

(503) 223-2880

w9yards.com

Hours: Monday through Friday

10am to 6pm;

Saturday 10am to 5pm

Stop in here for an inspiring collec-

tion of interior decorating fabrics,

trims, and custom furniture. They

stock over a thousand fabrics

including chenilles, tapestries, jac-

quards, silks, sheers, and velvets,

and also offer special orders from

their collection of fabric samples.

You’ll be blown away by the

variety of their whimsical and clas-

sical trims and tassels. The store

features an in-house workroom,

and you can have furniture built

from scratch. The parking lot is a

convenient bonus! View their blog

and website for sample projects

that show off the ingenuity of

their design department.

Cool Cottons

2417 SE Hawthorne Boulevard

Portland, OR 97214

(503) 232-0417

coolcottons.biz

Hours: Monday, Tuesday,

Wednesday, Friday, Saturday

10am to 6pm;

Thursday 12pm to 8pm;

Sunday 12pm to 5pm.

Thread your way south to the vi-

brant Hawthorne District and you’ll

fi nd Cool Cottons, an independent

fabric boutique housed in a charm-

ing 1911 home. The focus here is on

modern prints in bold shades, suit-

able for quilting, crafting, sewing,

and collecting. Some of their favor-

ite designers are Alexander Henry,

Art Gallery, Birch Organics, Cloud

9 Organics, Free Spirit, Kokka, Mi-

chael Miller, Moda, Robert Kaufman

and Westminster Fabrics. They are

especially proud of their selection

of Japanese cotton imports. You’ll

fi nd whimsical Matryoshka doll

prints, multiple “Frieda” patterns,

an assortment of seaside-themed

goods, vintage camping prints, ar-

chitectural designs, and even “pin-

ups.” Even if you come in without

a project in mind, you may fi nd

yourself stocking up because

the prints they carry are so darn

cool! If you’re browsing from afar,

viewing their “new arrivals” page

will stimulate your creativity while

bringing a smile to your face. This

colorful fabric destination is very

well organized and has person-

able staff.

Josephine’s Dry Goods

3050 SE Division Street

Portland, OR 97202

(503) 224-4202

www.josephinesdrygoods.com

Hours: Monday through Saturday

11am to 6pm;

Sunday 12pm to 5pm

Portland sewers mourned when

this downtown institution shut

its doors in 2013. Fortunately for

connoisseurs of fi ne garment

fabrics, it has now reopened in

a bright, compact space on SE

Division. New owners Bini and

Dana Leach have worked with

Judith Head, previous owner of

some 37 years, to ensure that

the new location continues in

the top-tier tradition of the old.

Look for elegant suiting fabrics

in wool and cashmere, printed

and textured silks, linens, luxury

blends, Japanese selvage den-

im, and a spectacular selection

from Liberty of London. Prices

can be formidable, but you’re

paying for the best. Handwritten

labels indicate the fi ber content

and width as well as the original

designer where appropriate.

You’ll also fi nd a select assort-

ment of buttons and trims

and high-quality notions from

Merchant and Mills.

Bolt

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 19

Rose City Textiles

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

20 VOGUE PATTERNS

Blade RunnerA Comprehensive Guide to Rotary Cutters, Blades, Sharpeners and Mats.

BY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG

First introduced by Olfa in 1979, the rotary cutter has taken the quilting and sewing world by storm as an alternative

to scissors and shears. This versatile tool can slice your cutting time in half when compared with traditional scissors. If you have friends who quilt, chances are you are familiar with these tools, but may have never thought of them for your own sewing arsenal. It’s time to think again because rotary cutters can be a great tool for every sewing room. Rotary cutters can be used on all types of fabrics, from quilting cottons and wool to leather and synthetics, and they can cut mul-tiple layers at a time. For the garment sewer, rotary cutters are especially beneficial when working with lightweight and slippery fabrics that squirm during scissor cutting. Movement of the fabric and pattern when the blades lift them from the table can distort the cut edge. When you use a rotary cutter the fabric stays flat against the cutting surface, so cutting can be more precise. This is also ideal for cutting synthetic or real leather and suede, or any other fabric that would be marred by pins, because the fabric and patterns can be held down by weights, avoiding pins altogether. Finally, rotary cutters are beneficial for sewers with arthritis who may have difficulty with the repetitive motion of cutting with scissors and shears. SIZE MATTERSThere are several sizes of rotary cutters and cutting blades available. Most brands offer

sizes from 18mm to 65mm diameter. Smaller blades work best for cutting curves and pat-tern details like necklines and armholes, while larger blades make quick work of long, straight cuts like skirt seams, making your own bias binding, etc. New on the market is a fingertip mini rotary cutter with a permanent 18 mm-diameter blade. The cutter fits over the finger and is held like a pencil to give precise con-trol—perfect for delicate fabrics and detailed cutting areas. Just as you have more than one size and shape of scissor in your toolbox, the same can hold true for rotary cutters.

TAKE SHAPERotary cutters come in different shapes, sizes and colors, depending on the brand. Some offer simple straight rigid handles, others have a curved handle of one configuration or anoth-er, and still others have cushioned or padded handles or gripper-handle activated blades. Some handles are looped for easier holding. Many cutters work equally well for both left- and right-handed cutting (with switchable blade positions) while other brands are specific to one or the other, so be sure to research sev-eral brands to determine a good fit for your needs. The choice depends on what’s comfort-able in your hand. If possible, it’s a good idea to try out several before you make a decision on which ones to purchase. Manufacturers are continually coming up with new features. One company offers a rota-ry cutter with a built-in LED light for cutting dark fabrics or in poor light. Another offers a

1 Imaginisce CutBright LED

lighted 45mm.

2 Fiskars Titanium curved

handle 45mm.

3 Omnigrid cushion handle,

pressure sensitive 45mm.

4 Fiskars Ergo Control heavy

duty 60mm.

5 Olfa Splash quick blade

change 45mm.

6 Sullivans Cutting Edge

45mm.

7 Havel’s fi ngertip lock trig-

ger 45mm.

8 Gingher left-hand 45mm.

9 Clover slender 18mm.

10 The Grace Company

comfort cutter 60mm.

11 Fiskars fi ngertip control

18mm.

APRIL/MAY 2014 21

TOOLS & TECHNIQUES

1

2

3

4

5

6

11

10

9

8

7

EQUIPMENT ESSENTIALS

APRIL/MAY 2014 29

If you are thinking about buy-ing a sewing machine, you are going to love your choices! If you already own a sewing machine, you will be amazed at how mod-

ern technology has improved the basic sewing mechanics of even the most economical machines, while adding cutting-edge features to high-end com-puterized models. Where do you start on your quest for the perfect sewing machine? There are so many choices at so many price points that you can certainly find a sewing machine that fills your needs and creative potential. Use this guide and the comparison charts on the fol-lowing pages as a starting point in the search for the machine of your dreams. Whether you’re a weekend dabbler, cre-ative quilter, or hard-core sewing pro-fessional, there is a machine out there to fit your needs and budget.

SHOP AROUNDTypically, if you grew up sewing on a certain brand, you might want to start investigating updates to that particular

brand, but it’s also a good idea to inves-tigate and test-sew a few competing brands. A basic sewing machine might be a good idea for a new sewer, but you might be better served by a machine with features that will help you develop your sewing skills beyond mending and sewing straight seams. In many cases the look and feel of the machine are the ultimate deciding factor for purchasing, so test out sev-eral before making your choice. Start your shopping by looking at advertise-ments and asking other sewers for their recommendations. By typing “sewing machine reviews” in your search engine and you will find thousands of results on the Internet. One result led us to a blog (sewmamasew.com) that we found particularly interesting. It asked people to review their own machine and post it to the site. At last count there were 46 machine reviews from people just like you at sewmamasew.com/2013/10/sewing-machine-reviews/, and a similar survey taken over a year ago had hun-dreds of reviews. When you’re ready to buy, a reputable

sewing machine dealer is your best bet, and can be an invaluable partner, offer-ing classes, routine maintenance and repairs, not to mention quick answers to questions. Many dealers also offer trade-ins and upgrades. Most manu-facturers offer a 25-year warranty, so building a relationship with your dealer makes economical sense. Most dealers only offer one or two brands, so you will have to travel from store to store to make comparisons. On the other hand, sewing shows offer a unique opportuni-ty because they usually have represen-tatives from all the major manufactur-ers, allowing you to try out a variety of machines at different price points all in one place. And, there are often “show” specials to sweeten the deal. Some of the larger fabric stores also have good sewing machine departments with a few brands and knowledgeable sales staff. They offer many of the benefits of dedicated dealers including lessons and service. Quality sewing machines are also available at mass merchandis-ers like Sears and Wal-Mart, but selec-tion is usually limited to very basic

Sewing Machine Shopping GuideA Comprehensive Comparison of the Newest Machines from

Economy to Top-of-the-Line.BY BETH BAUMGARTEL

NET-WORKING

14 VOGUE PATTERNS

NET-WORKING

14 VOGUE PATTERNS

Web WatchA collection of online resources for stocking

your stash and building your skills.

For designer dress fabrics at their fi nest, it’s

hard to do better than THE FABRIC STORE

(thefabricstoreusa.com). This Los-Angeles-based

branch of a New Zealand company is a renowned

source for its home country’s famed merino

jersey, as well as other natural fi bers including

silks, cottons, linens, and wools, plus a sprinkling

of novelties like sequined fabrics and leather. A

gorgeous gallery displays fabric swatches inter-

spersed with runway and street fashion inspira-

tions, and check the “featured specials” page for

bargain-priced offerings.

If you’re looking for a new podcast to keep you

company while you sew, drop in on THREAD CULT (threadcult.com), hosted by journalist Christine Cyr

Clisset. The 45-minute segments are all themed

around sewing, fashion, and textiles, and feature

guests specializing in sewing machines, refashion-

ing, color, historic costume, and more, including an

interview with Vogue Patterns designer and couture

expert Claire Shaeffer. Learn about sewing on silk,

making jeans, or sewing with bias, or take a “fi eld trip”

to an exhibit at Fashion Institute of Technology in New

York or a mill in the Carolinas. There’s something here

to please almost any sewing interest.

Wrestling an iron can get you only so far—for real,

crisp, long-lasting pleats you need a professional.

Fortunately, INTERNATIONAL PLEATING

(internationalpleating.com) will take care of all your

fabric manipulation needs. This 83-year-old family-

owned company specializes in all things pleating, from

pleated yardage to sample development, and will

happily tackle small custom orders for hobbyists and

students. Check out their blog, sample gallery, and free

ebooks for a bounty of information and inspiration,

and stop by their Etsy shop for an eclectic selection

of fabrics and trims. They even offer an iPhone app to

help calculate measurements for pleated skirts.

Who doesn’t dream of creating the perfect

sewing room, with space for all our treasures and

doors to hide it all away when it’s not needed?

GO ORGANIZE (go-organize.com) is a one-

stop shop for organization fi ends, stocking cubes,

shelves, desks, cabinets, doors, drawers, carts,

and everything you need to get your stash under

control once and for all. You’ll fi nd plenty of op-

tions to suit your dream decor, whether you’re

looking for contemporary white or black fi nishes

or a more traditional wood look. And, even better,

it’s delivered right to your door ready to assemble

and install.

Contact Maria Triantafillou, Advertising Sales at (212) 465-6849 or [email protected]

media kit

Contact Maria Triantafillou, Advertising Sales at (212) 465-6849 or [email protected]

DEMoGRAPHICS

THE VOGUE PATTERNs READER

Median Age: 51

Gender: 98% Female

Status: 75% Married

Education: 92% College Educated

Average Household Income: $80,000 annually

Average Years Sewing: 35

Number of Sewing Machines owned: 3

Number of Garments Constructed Last Year: 16

Internet Access: 85%

Visits Sewing Sites Monthly: 75%

Purchases from Sewing Sites: 60%

Purchases from Brick & Mortar Stores: 90%

Source: Subscriber Study

VO

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NS

VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

DEC

EMBER 2014/JA

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DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

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THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

SILVERSPRINGS

TOOLS OF THE TRADE:

SERGERSENSEPART 1 OF 4 BUYING GUIDE

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COLOR OF THE SEASON

The UlTimaTe Sewing magazine

The UlTimaTe Sewing magazine

who’s reADing vogue patterns?

The creative sewing enthusiast you want to reach. Educated and

affluent, the Vogue Patterns reader is in her peak earning years and

will spend her personal time pursuing creative sewing passions.

VoGUE PATTERNS READERS ARE SERIoUS ABoUT SEWING:

• 81% are experienced sewers for 10 or more years

• 60% consider their skill level Advanced

• 15% are professional seamstresses...sewing is their business.

• 30% sew 5-9 garments per year

•41% sew 10 or more garments per year

• 59% plan to take sewing classes in person or online

• 71% have been reading Vogue Patterns for over 8 years

• 77% save each issue for future reference

VoGUE PATTERNS READERS HAVE PURCHASING PoWER:

• Spend more than $700 a year on fabric alone.

• Plan to spend over $2,000 on her next sewing machine.

• 73% Plan to buy a new sewing machine/serger within 3+ years

VoGUE PATTERNS READERS ARE “CRAFTY” — oTHER

INTERESTS INCLUDE:

• 49% Knitting and Crochet

• 40% Needlework

• 39% Beading

• 33% Quilting

• 20% Jewelry Making

VoGUE PATTERNS READERS LooK FoR:

• 80% Top Designer Fashions

• 79% Technical Stitching/Construction Techniques

• 68% New Sewing Related Products

• 60% Sewing Machine Updates

• 55% Sewing Books and Videos

Source: 2010 Subscriber Study and 2013 Survey of pattern buyers

Contact Maria Triantafillou, Advertising Sales at (212) 465-6849 or [email protected]

Contact Maria Triantafillou, Advertising Sales at (212) 465-6849 or [email protected]

The UlTimaTe Sewing magazine

in every iSSUe: ediTorial deparTmenTSWhat Are You Sewing? – Personal snapshots of our reader’s latest creations

Must Haves – A collage of tools, notions and accessories to keep our sewists inspired

Star Blogger – Profile feature of our online sewing bloggers who have something special to share

Web Watch – A collection of online resources of products and sewing education

Tips & Techniques – Sew like a pro tips and techniques

Tools of the Trade – Product reviews for the sewing enthusiast

Master Instruction – Hands on, step-by-step professional instruction of sewing and fitting techniques

Special ediTorial FeaTUreS: Destination Shopping – Our insider shopping review of fine fabric stores in several locations in the U.S.

and Canada. Destinations and issues to be announced.

2015 FeaTUre ediTorial*

* All editorial subject to change and will be updated.

2 0 1 5 E d i t o r i a l C a l E n d a r

February/march 2015: Early Spring Fashions on Sale 12/23/14 ad closing 11/3/14

Fabric Finishes – The guide to different fabric finish products from body builders to water repellantsDigital Fabric by Spoonflower – Creating and printing your own designs on fabric, on demandCircle Sewing – Special sewing machine attachments that stitch circle designs

april/may 2015: Spring Fashions on Sale 2/27/15 ad closing 12/23/14

Sewing with Fine Knits– A fine knit project and techniques for smooth sewing Creating Your Own Fabric Designs with Permanent Ink Pens– Adding an artistic flair of color and design to plain, natural fabrics Guide to Pins– Presenting a variety of pins, their differences and where each should be used

June/July 2015: Summer Fashions on Sale 4/27/15 ad closing 3/2/15

Guide to Sewing Needles – All needles for any sewing jobFitting Pants –Get the right fit for any figure Sewing with Sheer Fabrics– Handling delicate, sheer fabrics

august/September 2015: Early Fall Fashions on Sale 7/13/15 ad closing 5/1/15

Unstructured Menswear– A closer fitting jacket that is easy and as comfortable as a sweater Phoenix Art Museum’s recent designer exhibitGuide to Threads – Thread types for all sewing projectsSewing Novelty Buttonholes – Tips and techniques Serger Series – Part 3 – Practical Skills

october/november 2015: Fall Fashions on Sale 9/1/15 ad closing 7/1/15

Fabric Story – Silk Mud cloth Online Sewing Schools – What’s available online to learn at your own paceGuide to Seam Rippers for your sewing toolboxShoulder Pad techniques to make your ownSerger Series – Part 4 – Construction and Decorative SkillsInterview: Pattern Designer, Khaliah Ali

december 2015/January 2016: Winter and Holiday Fashions on Sale 11/2/15 ad closing 9/4/15

Beading a Clutch Bag– How to embellish a simple clutch for a luxurious accessoryWool Lace Coat Dress for your winter wardrobeGuide to Sewing Machine Cabinets – Shopping for the right cabinetNovelty Seams - Illustrating new techniques for different seamsFabric Shopping Online – A resource for fabulous fabric

Magazine Advertising Rates

FOUR COLOR 1x 3x 6x

Back Cover $7,400 $7,030 $6,660

1 Page 6,900 6,555 6,2102/3 Page 5,150 4,891 4,6351/2 Page 4,450 4,228 4,0051/3 Page 3,400 3,230 3,0601/6 Page 1,870 1,780 1,685

BLACK & WHITE 1x 3x 6x

1 Page 5,150 4,891 4,6352/3 Page 3,750 3,563 3,3751/2 Page 3,100 2,945 2,7901/3 Page 2,050 1,948 1,8451/6 Page 1,135 1,080 1,020

2015 Print AdvertisingRates and Specs

Contact Maria Triantafillou, Advertising Sales at (212) 465-6849 or [email protected]

Send Ad materials to: Paris Tyson, The McCall Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, 34th floor, New York, NY 10271, (212) 465-6906, [email protected]

Ad Specs Preferred format is Adobe PDF, Acrobat 7 compatible with all fonts embedded. High resolution: 300 DPI preferred

The following applications are compatible:

Adobe CS5 Acrobat Pro 7.0

All color Ads must contain process colors, no PMS colors.

Black and White Ads will print with process black.

How to SendSend Ad materials via email

Ad may be shipped on CD RoM or DVD-R

Images can be transferred via FTP (call for access)

A hard copy is recommended to assure accuracy of file transfer, content and dimensions.

Magazine Advertising Closing Dates PRINT ADS Issue Space Ad Materials Magazine Closing Due on-Sale

February/March 11/3/14 11/11/14 12/23/14

April/May 12/23/14 1/7/15 2/27/15

June/July 3/2/15 3/10/15 4/27/15

August/September 5/1/15 5/15/15 7/13/15

October/November 7/1/15 7/15/15 9/1/15

December/January 9/4/15 9/18/15 11/2/15

*Note: All dimensions are width by height. For bleed Ads add 1⁄8" clearly marked on file and proof.

Spread

Live Area 14" x 10"*Trim 16½" x 10 ⁄8"**1⁄8" overlap in gutter on both pages.

Live Area 2¼" x 10"

Live Area 4 5⁄8" x 4 7⁄8"

½ Vertical

Live Area 33⁄4" x 10"Trim 4¼" x 107⁄8"

Full Page

1⁄2 Horizontal

Live Area 7" x 10"Trim 83⁄8" x 107⁄8"

Live Area 7" x 47⁄8"Trim 83⁄8" x 53⁄8"

1⁄3 Square

1⁄3 Vertical

Live Area 45⁄8" x 10" Trim 5" x 10 7⁄8"

Live Area 4 5⁄8" x 7¼"Trim 5" x 8"

1⁄2 Digest

V: Live Area 2¼" x 47⁄8"

1⁄6 Vertical

H: Live Area 47⁄8" x 2¼"

1⁄6 Horizontal

2⁄3 Vertical

Special Advertising Sections Rates

“Sew What’s New” Advertorial:100 words copy and image (jpg)1/4 page 1x 3x 6x

$1,400 $1,330 $1,260

“The Sewing Circle” Marketplace: A Community of Sewing Products1/12 Square (Color) $475 $450 $4251/12 Square (B&W) $400 $375 $360

Live Area 3½" x 4½"

1⁄4

Sew What’s New

Live Area 2¼" x 2¼"

1⁄12 Square

The Sewing Circle

Special Advertising Sections:

The UlTimaTe Sewing magazine

Sew…what'S New

For more information on advertising in Sew...What's New, please contact Maria Triantafillou at (212) 465-6849 or [email protected]

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