The Best of Spain

Spain is one of the most diverse and visually stunning nations of Europe. As you planyour trip, you may find yourself overwhelmed by the number of fascinating sights,beautiful landscapes, and charming towns to fit into your limited time. So let us giveyou a hand. We’ve scoured the country in search of the best places and experiences,and we’ve chosen our favorites below, admittedly very personal and opinionatedchoices.

1 The Best Travel Experiences

1

• Sitting in Sol or Sombra at theBullfights: With origins as old aspagan Spain, the art of bullfighting isthe expression of Iberian tempera-ment and passions. Detractors objectto the sport as cruel, bloody, and sav-age. Fans, however, view bullfightingas a microcosm of death, catharsis,and rebirth. If you strive to under-stand the bullfight, it can be one ofthe most evocative and memorableevents in Spain. Head for the plaza detoros (bullring) in any major city, butparticularly in Madrid, Seville, orGranada. Tickets are either sol (sunnyside) or sombra (pricier, but in theshade).

• Feasting on Tapas in the Tascas:Tapas, those bite-size portionswashed down with wine, beer, orsherry, are reason enough to go toSpain! Tapas bars, called tascas, are aquintessential Spanish experience.Originally tapas were cured ham orchorizo (spicy sausage). Today theyare likely to be anything—gambas(deep-fried shrimp); anchovies mari-nated in vinegar; stuffed peppers; acool, spicy gazpacho; or hake salad.

• Getting Caught Up in the Passionsof Flamenco: It’s best heard andwatched in an old tavern, in a neigh-borhood like Barrio de Triana inSeville. From the lowliest taberna tothe poshest nightclub, you can hearthe staccato foot stomping, castanetrattling, hand clapping, and sultryguitar chords. Some say its origins liedeep in Asia, but the Spanish Gypsyhas given the art an original styledramatizing inner conflict and pain.Performed by a great artist, flamencocan tear your heart out with its soul-ful, throaty singing.

• Seeing the Masterpieces at thePrado: One of the world’s premierart museums, the Prado is home tosome 4,000 masterpieces, many ofthem acquired by Spanish kings. Thewealth of Spanish art is staggering—everything from Goya’s Naked Majato the celebrated Las Meninas (TheMaids of Honor) by Velázquez (ourfavorite). Masterpiece after master-piece unfolds before your eyes, includ-ing works by Hieronymus Bosch,Goya, Caravaggio, Fra Angelico, andBotticelli. See p. 142.

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T H E B E S T T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S 7

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• Sipping Sherry in Jerez de la Fron-tera: In Spain, sherry is called jerez,and it’s a major industry and subcul-ture in its own right. Hispanophilescompare the complexities of sherry tothose of the finest wines produced inFrance, and make pilgrimages to thebodegas in Andalusia that fermentthis amber-colored liquid. More than100 bodegas are available for visits,tours, and tastings, opening theirgates to visitors interested in a processthat dates from the country’s Romanoccupation. See chapter 9.

• Wandering the Crooked Streets ofBarcelona’s Gothic Quarter: Longbefore Madrid was founded, thekingdom of Catalonia was a bastionof art and architecture. Whether theBarri Gòtic, as it’s called in Catalán,is truly Gothic is the subject of end-less debate, but the Ciutat Vella (OldCity) of Barcelona is one of the mostevocative neighborhoods in Spain. Itsrichly textured streets, with their gur-gling fountains, vintage stores, andancient fortifications, inspired suchartists as Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró(who was born in this neighbor-hood). See chapter 12.

• Going Gaga over Gaudí: No archi-tect in Europe was as fantastical asAntoni Gaudí y Cornet, the foremostproponent of Catalán modernisme (or,in Spanish, modernismo). Barcelonais studded with the works of thisextraordinary artist, all of whichUNESCO now lists as World TrustProperties. A recluse and a celibatebachelor as well as a fervent Catalánnationalist, he lived out his fantasiesin his work. Nothing is more stun-ning than his Sagrada Família,

Barcelona’s best-known landmark, acathedral on which Gaudí labored forthe last 43 years of his life. The land-mark cathedral was never completed,but work on it still proceeds. If it’sever finished, “The Sacred Family”will be Europe’s largest cathedral. Seechapter 12.

• Running with the Bulls in Pam-plona: Okay, maybe it’s smarter towatch the bulls, rather than run withthem. The Fiesta de San Fermín inJuly is the most dangerous ritual inSpain, made even more so by copiousamounts of wine consumed by par-ticipants and observers. Broadcastlive on TV throughout Spain andthe rest of Europe, the festival fea-tures herds of furious bulls thatcharge down medieval streets, attimes trampling and goring some ofthe hundreds of people who runbeside them. Few other rituals inSpain are as breathtaking or as fool-hardy. And few others as memorable.See chapter 16.

• Following the Ancient PilgrimRoute to Santiago de Compostela:Tourism as we know it began duringthe Middle Ages, when thousandsof European pilgrims journeyed tothe shrine of Santiago (St. James), inGalicia in northwestern Spain. Evenif you’re not motivated by faith, youshould see some of Spain’s mostdramatic landscapes and grandestscenery by crossing the northern tierof the country—all the way from thePyrenees to Santiago de Compostela.Some of the country’s most stunningarchitecture can be viewed along theway, including gems in Roncevalles,Burgos, and León. See chapter 19.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F S PA I N8

2 The Best Small Towns• Cuenca: Set amid a landscape of

rugged limestone outcroppings at thejunction of two rivers, Cuenca is a

fascinating combination of medievalmasonry and cantilevered balconiesthat seem to float above the steep

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gorges below. The angularity of thearchitecture here is said to haveinspired early versions of cubism, afact commemorated in Cuenca’sMuseo de Arte Abstracto Español.This museum is considered one ofthe finest modern art museums inSpain. See chapter 6.

• Zafra: Zafra’s 15th-century castle isthe largest and best preserved in theregion. It is set within the angular,stark white architecture of Zafra,which is also said to have inspired thecubists. See chapter 8.

• Baeza: After it was wrenched awayfrom the Moors in 1227, Baezabecame a frontier town between theChristian and Moorish worlds, and adie-hard symbol of the Catholicambition to occupy all of Iberia.Today, a wealth of architecture sur-vives as evidence of the splendor ofIberian history. See chapter 9.

• Carmona: Pint-size, sleepy Carmonapacks a historical wallop, evoking theRoman occupation of Iberia. Thetown claims an architectural legacyfrom every occupying force since206 B.C., when the Romans defeatedthe resident Carthaginian army. Seechapter 9.

• Ronda: The site appears inhos-pitable—a gorge slices through thetown center and its twin halves areconnected with bridges that areantiques in their own right. But thewinding streets of this old Moorishtown are perfect for wandering, andthe views of the surrounding Andalu-sian countryside are stupendous.Ronda is also revered by bullfightingfans, both for its bullring (the oldestand most beautiful in Spain) and theregion’s skill in breeding the fiercestbulls in the country. See chapter 9.

• Mijas: Wander through streets andalleys once trod by the Phoenicians,the Celts, and the Moors. Today, the

town offers a welcome dose ofmedieval flair on the Costa del Sol, aregion otherwise filled with modern,anonymous, and often ugly resorthotels. See chapter 10.

• Nerja: On the Costa del Sol at theBalcón de Europa (Balcony ofEurope) lies this Mediterranean gemand its palm-shaded promenade jut-ting into the sea. Lined with antiqueiron lampposts, the village overlooksa pretty beach and fishing fleet. Theresort town is on a sloping site at thefoot of a wall of jagged coastal moun-tains. You can snuggle up in theparador or lodge at one of the littleinns on the narrow streets. See chap-ter 10.

• Elche: Although famed as a charm-ing medieval village, Elche is bestknown as the excavation site of one ofthe premier sculptures of the RomanEmpire in Iberia, La Dama de Elche,now exhibited in Madrid’s archaeo-logical museum. These days, you canstill see date palms planted originallyby the Phoenicians. A “mystery play”celebrating the Assumption of theVirgin has been performed in the vil-lage church every year since the1300s. See chapter 11.

• Sitges: South of Barcelona is Spain’smost romantic Mediterranean beachtown, with a 2.5km-long (11⁄2-mile)sandy beach and a promenade studdedwith flowers and palm trees. Sitges isa town with a rich connection to art;Picasso and Dalí both spent time here.Wander its small lanes and inspect theold villas of its Casco Antiguo, theOld Quarter. When not at the beach,you can view three good art muse-ums. Nowadays, thousands of gaysand lesbians flock to Sitges, whichattracts a wide spectrum of visitors ofall persuasions. See chapter 13.

• Cadaqués: The 16th-century churchthat dominates this town from a

T H E B E S T S M A L L TO W N S 9

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nearby hilltop isn’t particularly note-worthy, but Cadaqués—on the CostaBrava near the French border—stillcharms visitors with its whitewashed,fishing-village simplicity. The azurewaters of the Mediterranean appealedto surrealist master Salvador Dalí,who built a suitably bizarre villa inthe adjoining hamlet of Lligat. Seechapter 14.

• Santillana del Mar: Jean-Paul Sartrecalled it “the prettiest village inSpain.” Only 6 blocks long and just5km (3 miles) from the sea, Santil-lana del Mar perfectly captures thespirit of Cantabria. It’s also near theCuevas de Altamira (Altamira Caves),often called “the Sistine Chapel ofprehistoric art.” Romanesque housesand mansions line the ironstone

streets. People still sell fresh milkfrom their stable doors, as if the Mid-dle Ages had never ended, but youcan live in comfort at one of Spain’sgrandest paradores, Parador de Santil-lana, a converted 17th-century man-sion. See chapter 18.

• Deià: On the island of Majorca,you’ll find this lovely old village (alsospelled Deyá), where the poet RobertGraves lived until his death in 1985.Following in his footsteps, artists andwriters flock to this haven of naturalbeauty, 27km (17 miles) northwest ofPalma. The views of the sea andmountains are panoramic. Gnarledand ancient olive trees dot the land-scape. You can book into cozy nestsof luxury like La Residencia or EsMolí. See chapter 20.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F S PA I N10

3 The Best BeachesSpain may be flanked to the east byFrance and the Pyrenees and to the westby Portugal, but most of the country isringed with sand, rock, and seawater.That, coupled with almost year-roundsunshine, has attracted many millions ofbeachgoers.

• Costa del Sol: Stretching east fromGibraltar along the southernmostcoast of Spain, the Costa del Sol is themost famous, party-hearty, overdevel-oped string of beaches in Iberia. Thebeaches feature superb sand, and theMediterranean waters are calm andwarm throughout most of the year.But these charms have broughtthrongs of visitors, making this themost congested string of coastalresorts in Europe. The most impor-tant resorts here are Marbella, Torre-molinos, Málaga, and Nerja. Lookfor soaring skyscrapers, eye-poppingbikinis, sophisticated resorts andrestaurants, lots of sunshine, andinterminable traffic jams. See chap-ter 10.

• Costa Blanca: This southeastern coastembraces the industrial city of Valencia,but its best-known resorts, Benidormand Alicante, are packed with north-ern European sun-seekers every year.The surrounding scenery isn’t partic-ularly dramatic, but the water isturquoise, the sand is white, and alow annual rainfall virtually guaran-tees a sunny vacation. See chapter 11.

• Costa Brava: Rockier, more serpen-tine, and without the long stretches ofsand that mark the Costa Blanca, thecliff-edged Costa Brava extends fromBarcelona to the French border. Lookfor the charming, sandy-bottomedcoves that dot the coast. Althoughthere are fewer undiscovered beacheshere than along Spain’s Atlantic coast,the Costa Brava retains a sense ofrocky wilderness. One of the moreeccentric-looking villas along thiscoast belonged to the late SalvadorDalí, the region’s most famous mod-ern son who lived much of his lifenear Cadaqués. See chapter 14.

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• Costa Verde: Radically differentfrom the dry and sunbaked coastlineof Andalusia, the rocky Costa Verde(Green Coast) resembles a sunny ver-sion of Ireland’s western shore. It’stemperate in summer, when the restof Spain can be unbearably hot.Much of the coast lies within theancient province of Asturias, a regionrife with Romanesque architectureand medieval pilgrimage sites—andone that has not yet been over-whelmed with tourism. Premierresorts include some districts of San-tander, Gijón and, a short distanceinland, Oviedo. See chapter 18.

• The Balearic Islands: Just off thecoast of Catalonia and a 45-minuteflight from Barcelona, this rocky,sand-fringed archipelago attractsurban refugees seeking the sun, jet-setglitterati, and exhibitionists in scantybeachwear. The Mediterranean cli-mate is warmer here than on themainland. The city of Palma deMajorca has the greatest number ofhigh-rises and the most crowdedshorelines. Much of Ibiza is partycentral for young people and gay vis-itors during the summer. SleepyMinorca offers more isolation. Seechapter 20.

T H E B E S T C A S T L E S & PA L A C E S 11

4 The Best Castles & Palaces• Palacio Real (Madrid): No longer

occupied by royalty, but still used forstate occasions, the Royal Palace sitson the bank of the Manzanares River.It was built in the mid–18th centuryover the site of a former palace. It’snot Versailles, but it’s still mightyimpressive, with around 2,000 rooms.No one has lived here since 1931, butthe chandeliers, marble columns,gilded borders, paintings, and objetsd’art, including Flemish tapestriesand Tiepolo ceiling frescoes, are wellpreserved. The empty thrones ofKing Juan Carlos and Queen Sofíaare among the highlights of the tour.See p. 143.

• Alcázar (Segovia): Once the mostimpregnable castle in Spain, ElAlcázar rises dramatically from arock spur near the ancient heart oftown. Isabella’s marriage to Ferdi-nand at this foreboding site eventu-ally led to the unification of Spain.Today, it’s the single most pho-tographed and dramatic castle inIberia. See p. 187.

• Palacio Real (Aranjuez): Built atenormous expense by the Bourboncousins of the rulers of France, the

palace was designed to emulate theglories of Versailles in its 18th-cen-tury neoclassicism. The gardens areeven more fascinating than thepalace. The gem of the complex is theCasita del Labrador, an annex as richand ornate as its model—MarieAntoinette’s Petit Trianon at Ver-sailles. See p. 181.

• Alhambra (Granada): One of Spain’sgrandest sights, the Alhambra wasoriginally conceived by the Muslimsas a fortified pleasure pavilion. Itsallure was instantly recognized by theCatholic monarchs after the Recon-quest. Despite the presence of adecidedly European palace at its cen-ter, the setting remains one of themost exotic (and Moorish) in all ofEurope. See p. 306.

• Alcázar (Seville): The oldest royalresidence in Europe still in use wasbuilt by Peter the Cruel (1350–69) in1364, 78 years after the Moors leftSeville. Ferdinand and Isabella oncelived here. The Alcázar is one of thepurest examples of the Mudéjar, orMoorish, style, and its decoration isbased on that of the Alhambra inGranada. A multitude of Christian

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and Islamic motifs are combinedarchitecturally in this labyrinth ofgardens, halls, and courts, none more

notable than the Patio de las Doncel-las (Court of the Maidens). Seep. 269.

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5 The Best MuseumsThe spectacular Prado in Madrid is nomere museum but a travel experience. Initself, it’s worth a journey to Spain. (See“The Best Travel Experiences,” earlier inthis chapter.)

• Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum(Madrid): Madrid’s acquisition ofthis treasure trove of art in the 1980swas one of the greatest coups in Euro-pean art history. Amassed by a cen-tral European collector beginningaround 1920, and formerly dis-played in Lugano, Switzerland, its700 canvases, with works by artistsranging from El Greco to Picasso, arearranged in chronological order. Thecollection rivals the legendary hold-ings of the queen of England herself.See p. 144.

• Museo de Arte Abstracto Español(Cuenca): The angular medievalarchitecture of the town that containsthe museum is an appropriate foilfor a startling collection of modernmasters. A group of some of Spain’smost celebrated artists settled inCuenca in the 1950s and 1960s, andtheir works are displayed here. Theyinclude Fernando Zobel, AntoniTàpies, Eduardo Chillida, Luis Feito,and Antonio Saura. See p. 200.

• Museo-Hospital de Santa Cruz(Toledo): Built by the archbishop ofToledo as a hospital for the poor,this is the most important museumin New Castile. It’s known for itsPlateresque architecture—notably itsintricate facade—and for the wealthof art inside. Among its noteworthycollection of 16th- and 17th-centurypaintings are 18 works by El Greco,including his Altarpiece of the Assump-tion, completed in 1613 during his

final period. The gallery also containsa collection of primitive paintings.See p. 173.

• Museo Nacional de Escultura (Valladolid): The greatest collectionof gilded polychrome sculpture—anart form that reached its pinnacle inValladolid—is on display here in the15th-century San Gregorio College.Figures are first carved in wood, thenpainted with great artistry to achieve alifelike appearance. The most remark-able exhibit is an altarpiece designedby Alonso Berruguete for the Churchof San Benito. Be sure to see his Mar-tyrdom of St. Sebastian. See p. 221.

• Museo Nacional de Arte Romano(Mérida): A museum that makesmost archaeologists salivate, thismodern building contains hundredsof pieces of ancient Roman sculpturediscovered in and around Mérida.The Roman treasures included the-aters, amphitheaters, racecourses, andhundreds of tombs full of art objects,many of which are on display here.In 1986, the well-known and award-winning architect Rafael Moneodesigned this ambitious and innova-tive brick building. Designing thebuilding on a grand scale, he freelyborrowed from Roman motifs anddaringly incorporated an ancientRoman road discovered when thefoundations were dug. See p. 241.

• Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes deSevilla (Seville): The Prado doesn’town all the great Spanish art in thecountry. Located in the early-17th-century convent of La Merced, thismuseum is famous for its worksby such Spanish masters as ValdésLeal, Zurbarán, and Murillo. Spain’s

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Golden Age is best exemplified byMurillo’s monumental ImmaculateConception and Zurbarán’s Apotheosisof St. Thomas Aquinas. See p. 270.

• Museu Picasso (Barcelona): Picasso,who spent many of his formativeyears in Barcelona, donated some2,500 of his paintings, drawings, andengravings to launch this museum in1970. It’s second only to the PicassoMuseum in Paris. Seek out his note-books, which contain many sketchesof Barcelona scenes. The pieces arearranged in rough chronologicalorder, so you’ll discover that he com-pletely mastered traditional represen-tational painting before tiring of itand beginning to experiment. Watch

for numerous portraits of his family,as well as examples from both hisBlue Period and his Rose Period.His obsessive Las Meninas series—painted in 1959—offers exaggeratedvariations on the theme of thefamous Velázquez work hanging inMadrid’s Prado Museum. See p. 431.

• Teatre Museu Dalí (Figueres): Theeccentric Salvador Dalí is showcasedhere as nowhere else. The surrealistartist—known for everything fromlobster telephones to Rotting Man-nequin in a Taxicab—conceived of hisart partly as theater. But be warned:As Dalí’s final joke, he wanted themuseum to spew forth “false infor-mation.” See p. 482.

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6 The Best Cathedrals & Churches• Catedral de Avila: One of the earli-

est Gothic cathedrals in Castile, thisrugged, plain edifice was called “a sol-dier’s church.” A brooding, granitemonolith, which in some waysresembles a fortress, it is the center-piece of a city that produced St.Teresa, the most famous mystic of theMiddle Ages. The interior of thecathedral, with its High Gothic nave,is filled with notable works of art,including many Plateresque statues.See p. 196.

• Catedral de Toledo: Ranked amongthe greatest of all Gothic structures,this cathedral was built on the site ofan old Arab mosque. A vast pile fromthe 13th to the 15th centuries, it hasan interior filled with masterpieces—notably an immense polychromeretable carved in Flamboyant Gothicstyle, and magnificent 15th- and16th-century choir stalls. In the treas-ury is a splendid 16th-century silver-and-gilt monstrance, weighing about500 pounds. See p. 172.

• Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo deEl Escorial (near Madrid): Philip II,

who commissioned this monastery inthe 1530s, envisioned it as a monas-tic fortress against the distractions ofthe secular world. More awesomethan beautiful, it’s the world’s bestexample of the religious devotion ofRenaissance Spain. This huge granitefortress, the burial place for Spanishkings, houses a wealth of paintingsand tapestries—works by everyonefrom Titian to Velázquez. See p. 183.

• Catedral de León: Filled with moresunlight than any other cathedral inSpain, this one was begun in 1250with a design pierced by 125 stained-glass windows and 57 oculi, the old-est of which date from the 13thcentury. The architectural achieve-ment is stunning but also dangerous.Architects fear that an urgent restora-tion is needed to strengthen the wallsto prevent collapse. The well-pre-served cloisters are also worth a visit.See p. 217.

• Catedral de Santa María (Burgos):After its cornerstone was laid in1221, this cathedral became the ben-eficiary of creative talent imported

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from England, Germany, and France.It is the third-largest cathedral inSpain, after Seville and Toledo. Arthistorians claim that among medievalreligious buildings, it has the mostdiverse spectrum of sculpture inGothic Spain—so diverse that a spe-cial name has been conjured up todescribe it: the School of Burgos. ElCid is buried here. See p. 224.

• Catedral de Sevilla: The Christiansare not the only occupants of Sevillewho considered this site holy; anenormous mosque stood here beforethe Reconquista. To quote the Chris-tians who built the cathedral, theyplanned one “so immense that every-one, on beholding it, will take usfor madmen.” They succeeded. AfterSt. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’sin London, the cathedral of thisAndalusian capital is the largest inEurope. Among its most importantfeatures are the tomb of Columbus,Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard ofthe Orange Trees), Giralda Tower,and Capilla Real (Royal Chapel). Seep. 270.

• Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba: Inthe 1500s, the Christian rulers ofSpain tried to convert one of thelargest and most elaborate mosquesin the Muslim world, the Mezquita,into a Catholic cathedral. The result,a bizarre amalgam of Gothic andMuslim architecture, is an awesomelyproportioned cultural compromisethat defies categorization. In its 8th-century heyday, the Mezquitawas the crowning Muslim architec-tural achievement in the West. Seep. 257.

• Catedral de Barcelona: Completedin 1450, this cathedral grew to repre-sent the spiritual power of the Catalánempire. With its 81m (266-ft.) facadeand flying buttresses and gargoyles, itis the Gothic Quarter’s most stun-ning monument. The interior is inthe Catalán Gothic style with slenderpillars. See p. 426.

• Montserrat (near Barcelona): Sinceits inauguration in the 9th century byBenedictine monks, Montserrat hasbeen the preeminent religious shrineof Catalonia and the site of the leg-endary statue of La Moreneta (theBlack Madonna). Its glory yearsended in 1812, when it was sacked bythe armies of Napoleon. Today, sit-ting atop a 1,200m (3,936-ft.)mountain, 11km (7 miles) long and5.5km (31⁄2 miles) wide, it is one ofthe three most important pilgrimagesites in Spain. See chapter 13

• Museo Catedralicio de Santiago deCompostela: During the MiddleAges, this verdant city on the north-western tip of Iberia attracted thou-sands of religious pilgrims whowalked from as far away as Italy toseek salvation at the tomb of St.James. The cathedral itself shows thearchitectural influences of nearly 800years of religious conviction, much ofit financed by donations fromexhausted pilgrims. Its two moststunning features are its Obradoirofacade (a baroque masterpiece), andits carved Doorway of Glory behindthe facade. An enormous silver censorcalled the Botafumeiro swings fromthe transept during major liturgicalceremonies. See p. 576.

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7 The Best Vineyards & WineriesSpanish wines are some of the best in theworld and are remarkably affordable here.Below is a list of bodegas that receivevisitors. For more information about the

10 wine regions—and the 39 officiallyrecognized wine-producing Denomina-ciones de Origen scattered across thoseregions—contact Wines from Spain,

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c/o the Commercial Office of Spain, 405Lexington Ave., 44th Floor, New York,NY 10174-4499 (& 212/661-4959).

RIBERA DEL DUEROHalfway between Madrid and Santander,this region near Burgos is the fastestdeveloping wine district in the countryand the beneficiary of massive invest-ments in the past few years. Cold nights,sunny days, the highest altitudes of anywine-producing region in Spain, and fer-tile alkaline soil produce flavorful, award-winning wines. Among the noteworthyindividual vineyards is:

• Bodegas Señorío de Nava, Nava deRoa (& 98-720-97-12): This is oneof the region’s best examples of aonce-sleepy and now-booming vint-ner. Merlot and cabernet sauvignongrapes are cultivated, as are moreobscure local varieties such as Tintadel País (also known as Tempranillo)and Garnacha (or Grenache, as it’scalled across the border in France).Some of the wines bottled here aredistributed under the brand nameVega Cubillas.

JEREZ DE LA FRONTERAThis town of 200,000 (most of whoseresidents work in the wine trade) is sur-rounded by a sea of vineyards, whichthrive in the hot, chalky soil. Ninety-fivepercent of the region is planted with thehardy and flavorful Palomino Fino toproduce sherry, one of the most belovedproducts of Spain. Few other regions con-tain so many bodegas, any of which canbe visited. See chapter 9 for more infor-mation; in the meantime, outstandingchoices include:

• Emilio Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera(& 95-634-15-97): This bodega wasestablished in 1896 by a local lawyerand, ever since, it has produced exoticforms of sherry snapped up as collec-tors’ items by aficionados everywhere.

• Antonio Barbadillo, Sanlúcar deBarrameda (& 95-638-55-00): Thisfirm controls 70% of the sherry pro-duced in the region around Sanlúcar,a town just 24km (15 miles) north ofJerez. Venerable and respected, itboasts impressive headquarters—apalace originally conceived as a resi-dence for a local bishop. Althoughestablished in 1821, it remained asmall-time player until the 1960s,when production and quality zoomedupward. Some of its wine is distrib-uted in Britain as Harvey’s of Bristol.

• González Byass, Jerez de la Frontera(& 95-635-70-16): Flourishingsince 1835, this bodega has gainedenormous recognition from one ofthe most famous brand names andthe world’s best-selling sherry, TíoPepe. It isn’t as picturesque as youmight hope, since modernization hasadded some rather bulky concretebuildings to its historic core. Nonethe-less, it’s one of the most visible namesin the industry.

• Pedro Domecq, Jerez de la Frontera(& 95-615-15-00): The oldest of allthe large sherry houses was estab-lished in 1730 by Pedro Domecq, ayoung French nobleman. Its bodegacontains casks whose contents wereonce destined for such sherry loversas William Pitt, Lord Nelson, and theduke of Wellington. If you visit thissprawling compound, look for LaMezquita bodega, whose many-columned interior recalls the famousmosque in Córdoba.

PENEDESIn ancient times, thousands of vessels ofwine were shipped from this region ofCatalonia to fuel the orgies of the RomanEmpire. Much of the inspiration for thepresent industry was developed in the19th century by French vintners, whofound the climate and soil similar to

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those of Bordeaux. The region producesstill wines, as well as 98% of Spain’ssparkling wines (cava), which stand anexcellent chance of supplanting Frenchchampagne in the minds of celebrantsthroughout the world. In fact, Freixenetis the largest selling sparkling wine in theworld.

• Codorníu, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia(& 93-505-15-15; www.codorniu.com): With a history dating from themid-1500s, this vineyard becamefamous after its owner, Josep Raven-tós, produced Spain’s first version ofsparkling wine. During the harvest,more than 2.2 million pounds ofgrapes, collected from about 1,000growers, are pressed daily. The com-pany’s headquarters, designed aroundthe turn of the 20th century by Puig iCadafalch, a contemporary of Gaudí,sits above the 31km (19 miles) ofunderground tunnels where theproduct is aged.

• Freixenet, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia(& 93-891-70-00; www.freixenet.es):Cordoníu’s largest and most innova-tive competitor began in 1861 as afamily-run wine business that quicklychanged its production process toincorporate the radical developmentsin sparkling cava. Today, althoughstill family owned, it’s an awesomelyefficient factory pressing vast num-bers of grapes, with at least a millioncases sold to the United States everyyear. Award-winning brand namesinclude Cordon Negro Brut andCarta Nevada Brut. The companynow operates a vineyard in Califor-nia. It produces the sparkling wine,Gloria Ferrer, which has won awardsin the United States.

• Miguel Torres, Vilafranca del Penedés(& 93-817-74-00; www.torreswines.com): This winery was established in1870 by a local son (Jaime Torres),

who returned to his native town aftermaking a fortune trading petroleumand oil in Cuba. Today, you can seewhat was once the world’s largest winevat (132,000 gal.); its interior wasused as the site of a banquet held inhonor of the Spanish king. Thanks togenerations of management byFrench-trained specialists, MiguelTorres is now one of the region’s mostsophisticated and advanced vineyards.Like the other bodegas, its locationpermits side trips to Barcelona, thebeach resort of Sitges, and the ancientmonastery of Montserrat.

LA RIOJASet in the foothills of the Pyrenees closeto the French border, La Rioja turns outwhat most people have in mind whenthey think of Spanish wines. The regionproduced millions of gallons during theregime of the ancient Romans, and itboasts quality-control laws promulgatedby a local bishop in the 9th century. Hereare some of the best vineyards for a visit:

• Herederos de Marqués de Riscal,Elciego (& 94-560-60-00): Thisvineyard was founded around 1850by a local entrepreneur who learnedwine-growing techniques in France.The modern-day enterprise still basesmost of its income on the 199 hectares(492 acres) acquired by the organiza-tion’s founding father. Despite severaldisappointing years between 1975and 1985, it remains one of the mostrespected in the region.

• Bodegas Riojanas, Cenicero (& 94-145-40-50): Set on the main street ofthe wine-growing hamlet of Cenicero,this century-old bodega expandedmassively in the 1980s, and upgradedits visitor information program. You’llbe received in a mock-feudal towerwhere you can learn the nuances ofthe wine industry.

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• Bodegas Muga, Haro (& 94-131-04-98; www.bodegasmuga.com): Thisbodega adheres more to 19th-centuryold-world craftsmanship than any ofits competitors do. It was founded in1932 by Isaac Muga and his wife,Aurora Cao, who both came from along line of families in the wine-mak-ing industry. The winery contains anassortment of old-fashioned casksmade from American or French oak.Production is small, eclectic, andchoice.

• La Rioja Alta, Haro (& 94-131-03-46; www.riojalta.com): Anotherbodega in the wine-growing commu-nity of Haro, La Rioja Alta is setnear the railway station. Founded in1890, it has the dank and atmos-pheric cellars you’d expect. It wasgraced in 1984 by a visit from Spain’sroyal family. About 85% of the pro-duction at this small but quality out-fit is bottled as reservas (aged at least3 years) and gran reservas (aged atleast 5 years).

GALICIAThis Celtic outpost in the northwesterncorner of Spain produces white wines

praised by connoisseurs as the perfectaccompaniment to local seafood. Themarketing name for the product, appro-priately, is El Vino del Mar (Sea Wine),although the Denominación de Origenincludes the appellations Rias Baixas andRibeiro. Per-capita wine consumption inGalicia is the highest in Spain; a majorityof the wine produced here was formerlyconsumed locally. Massive investmentsduring the 1980s changed all that.

• Bodega Morgadio, Albeos-Crecente(& 98-666-61-50): This vineyard,near Pontevedra, launched theDenominación de Origen Rias Baixasin 1984. Four friends to whom localsreferred as “madmen” bought 28hectares (69 acres) of land that, withthe Albariño grape, they transformedinto one of the most respected andaward-winning vineyards in the dis-trict. Fertilizers for each year’s cropcomes from the bodega’s own flock ofsheep. The success of old-fashionedfarming methods coupled with state-of-the-art fermentation tanks is amodel of entrepreneurial courage inan otherwise economically depressedoutpost of Spain.

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8 The Best Festivals• The Autumn Festival, Madrid

(& 91-730-17-50): Held in Octo-ber and November, the Festival deOtoño is the best music festival inSpain, with a lineup that attracts thecream of the European and SouthAmerican musical communities. Theusual roster of chamber music, sym-phonic pieces, and orchestral worksis supplemented by a program ofzarzuela (musical comedy), as well asArabic and Sephardic pieces com-posed during the Middle Ages. Seep. 46.

• Feria del Caballo, Jerez de la Fron-tera (& 95-633-11-50): Few events

show off Spain’s equestrian traditionsin such a flattering light. Costumesare appropriately ornate; ridersdemonstrate the stern, carefully con-trolled movements developed duringmedieval battles; and the entire cityof Jerez becomes one enormous rid-ing ring for the presentation of dres-sage and jumping events. Horsebuying and trading are commonplaceat this May event. See p. 46.

• Las Hogueras de San Juan, Alicante(& 98-120-24-06; www.hoguerassanjuan.com): Bonfires blaze throughthe night on June 20 as a celebrationof a festival revered by Celtic pagans

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and Romans alike—the summer sol-stice. Stacks of flammable objects,including discarded finery and card-board replicas of sinners and witches,are set ablaze. The bonfire signals thebeginning of 5 days of parades and 5nights of fireworks, during whichnormal business comes to a virtualstandstill. See p. 44.

• Moros y Cristianos, Alcoy, nearAlicante (& 96-514-34-52): Theagonizing, century-long process ofevicting the Moors from Iberia is re-created during 3 days of simulated,vaudeville-style fighting between“Moors” and “Christians” every April(dates vary). Circus-style costumesworn by the Moors are as absurdlyanachronistic as possible. When theChristians win, a statue of the Virginis carried proudly through the city asproof of Alcoy’s staunchly passionaterole as a bastion of Christianity. Seep. 43.

• La Tomatina, Buñol, Valencia(& 96-250-01-51): Every year onthe last Wednesday in August, nearlyeveryone in the town, along withthousands from neighboring townsand villages, joins this 2-hour-longtomato war (11am–1pm). The localgovernment sponsors the festival,bringing in truckloads of tomatoes

totaling more than 88,000 pounds ofvegetable artillery. Local bands pro-vide the music for dancing andsinging and plenty of drinking.Portable showers are installed for theparticipants. See p. 45.

• La Rapa das Bestas (The Captureof the Beasts), San Lorenzo deSabucedo, Galicia (& 98-154-63-51):In the verdant hills of northwesternSpain, horses graze at will. On the firstweekend of July, they are rounded upand herded into a corral. Here, eachis branded and then released backinto the wild after a few days of med-ical observation. For information,contact the Office of Tourism in Pon-tevedra. See p. 44.

• Misteri d’Elx (Mystery of Elche),Elche (& 96-545-61-12): Based onthe reputed mystical powers of anancient, black-faced statue of the Vir-gin, the citizens of Elche have stageda mystery play in the local churchevery year for more than 6 centuries.The chanting and songs that accom-pany the plot line are in an archaicdialect that even Castilians can barelyunderstand. Competition is fierce forseats during the August event, andcelebrations precede and follow theplay. See p. 379.

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9 The Best ParadoresFunded and maintained by the govern-ment, Spain’s paradores are hostelries thatshowcase a building or setting of impor-tant cultural and historic interest. Someare much older and grander than others.Here are the country’s most interestingand unusual.

• Parador de Avila, Avila (& 92-021-13-40; www.parador.es): Built as anenlargement of a 15th-century palace(Palacio de Piedras Albas, also knownas Palacio de Benavides), this parador

features gardens that flank thenorthern fortifications of this well-preserved, 11th-century walled city.While only some of the comfortable,airy guest rooms are in the originalpalace, it’s still the region’s mostintriguing hotel. In the parador’srestaurant, try the roast suckling pig,a regional specialty. See p. 197.

• Parador de Cuenca, Cuenca (& 96-923-23-20; www.parador.es): This16th-century building, once aDominican convent, is one of the

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newer paradores in Spain. Like themedieval houses for which Cuenca isfamous, the balconies here jut overrocky cliffs, overlooking swift-mov-ing rivers below. The sight of casascolgadas, or “suspended houses,” isunforgettable. An adjoining restau-rant specializes in seasonal wild game.See p. 201.

• Parador de Turismo de Toledo,Toledo (& 92-522-18-50; www.parador.es): Although this is a rela-tively modern building, the architec-ture subtly evokes much oldermodels. Views from the windows,boasting faraway glimpses of the city’shistoric core, evoke the scenes ElGreco painted in his View of Toledo. Aswimming pool is a welcome reliefin blistering Toledo. Such regionaldishes as stewed partridge are fea-tured in the hotel restaurant. Seep. 175.

• Parador San Marcos, León (& 98-723-73-00; www.parador.es): Origi-nally home to the Order of Santiago—a group of knights charged withprotecting journeying pilgrims—thebuilding was expanded and convertedinto a monastery some 400 years later.These days, set beside the BernesgaRiver and with a lavishly decoratedchurch on the grounds, it’s one ofSpain’s most deluxe paradores. Thepublic areas are pure medievalgrandeur: a dramatic lobby, a hugecast-iron chandelier, and stone stair-cases. See p. 219.

• Parador de Zamora, Zamora(& 98-051-44-97; www.parador.es):This one-time Moorish fortress-turned-Renaissance palace is amongthe most beautiful and richly deco-rated paradores in Spain. A medievalaura is reflected in the details: armor,coats-of-arms, tapestries, and attrac-tive four-poster beds. A swimmingpool enhances the tranquil back

garden. Castilian fare such as stuffedroast veal typifies the restaurant’sofferings. See p. 215.

• Parador de Cáceres, Cáceres (& 92-721-17-59; www.parador.es): Livelike royalty at this palace, built in the1400s on the site of Arab fortifica-tions. The parador is in the city’s OldQuarter, recently declared a WorldHeritage Site. The spacious publicareas are decorated with soft creamshades and rough-hewn ceiling beams.Venison with goat cheese and roastkid with rosemary are typical of thevaried Extremaduran cuisine served inthe parador’s restaurant. See p. 238.

• Parador de Trujillo, Trujillo (& 92-732-13-50; www.parador.es): Set inthe inviting 16th-century convent ofSanta Clara, this parador was origi-nally built in a combination ofmedieval and Renaissance styles. Thebuilding was transformed into a hotelin 1984; the guest rooms are consid-erably more lavish than they wereduring their stint as nuns’ cells. Thecuisine is the best in town. See p. 235.

• Parador de Mérida, Mérida (& 92-431-38-00; www.parador.es): A 16th-century building that was at varioustimes a convent and a prison, thisparador once hosted a meetingbetween the much-hated dictators ofSpain (Franco) and Portugal (Salazar)in the 1960s. Mudéjar, Roman, andVisigothic elements adorn the interiorin unusual but stunning juxtapo-sition. The inner courtyard andMozarabic gardens add gracefulnotes. The kitchen serves the area’sbest, including gazpacho, calderetasextremeñas (stews), and the famousAlmoharin figs. See p. 242.

• Parador de Jaén, Jaén (& 95-323-00-00; www.parador.es): In the 10thcentury, Muslims built this fortresson a cliff high above town. Later,Christians added Gothic vaulting and

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touches of luxury, which remain inplace thanks to renovation by thegovernment. Guest rooms providesweeping views over Andalusia. Aswimming pool is a welcome retreatfrom the burning sun. Sample suchdishes as cold garlic soup and par-tridge salad in the panoramic restau-rant. See p. 248.

• Parador de Santillana Gil Blas, San-tillana del Mar (& 94-202-80-28;www.parador.es): This bucolic paradorrecalls the manor houses that dottednorthern Spain’s verdant hillsidesmore than 400 years ago. Composedof thick stone walls and heavy tim-bers, it’s pleasantly isolated and ele-gantly countrified. A bonus is itsproximity to what has been called “theSistine Chapel of prehistoric art”—the Caves of Altamira. See p. 554.

• Parador Molino Viejo (Parador deGijón), Gijón (& 98-537-05-11;www.parador.es): As the nameimplies, this hotel was built aroundthe decrepit remains of a molino, orcider mill (and the antique presses arestill at hand). Close to San LorenzoBeach, it’s the only parador in thenorthern province of Asturias. Thedining room serves typical Asturian

cuisine, including the famous fabada,a rich stew of white beans and pork.See p. 563.

• Parador de Pontevedra, Pontevedra(& 98-685-58-00; www.parador.es):The building is a 16th-centuryRenaissance palace built on founda-tions at least 200 years older thanthat. It’s famous as one of Spain’s firstparadores. Inaugurated in 1955, itssuccess led to the amplification of theparador program. The hotel is stillalluring today, with its delightful ter-race garden and stately dining room,which serves the fresh fish andseafood for which Galicia is known.See p. 587.

• Hostal de Los Reyes Católicos, San-tiago de Compostela (& 98-158-22-00): We saved the best for last—thisis one of the most spectacular hotelsin Europe. Originally a hospice forwayfaring pilgrims, it boasts a lavish16th-century facade, four open-aircourtyards, and a bedchamber onceoccupied by Franco. Today, the hotelis a virtual museum, with Gothic,Renaissance, and baroque architec-tural elements. It boasts four beauti-ful cloisters, elegant public areas, andspectacular guest rooms. See p. 577.

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10 The Best Luxury Hotels• Park Hyatt Villa Magna, Madrid

(& 800/633-7313 or 91-587-12-34;www.madrid.hyatt.com): Although itlooks like a House of Parliament, thiselegant hotel is regal and sedate, giv-ing off the aura of a country estate.Fine furnishings, beautiful linen, andsuch designer toiletries as fragrantMaja soaps can be found in theexquisite guest rooms. The hotel issurrounded by beautiful gardens. Seep. 117.

• The Westin Palace, Madrid (& 888/625-4988 or 91-360-80-00; www.palacemadrid.com): Flawless service

is the hallmark of Madrid’s most distinguished hotel. Guest roomscontain antiques, gracious marblebathrooms, and elegant detailing.This Edwardian grand hotel is morerelaxed than it once was, the oldhaughtiness of former managementgone with the wind—it long agorescinded its policy of not allowingmovie stars as guests. You still mayhave to wear a coat and tie, however.See p. 110.

• Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville (& 800/221-2340 or 95-491-70-00): Theroyal family stayed here when the

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Infanta Elena, daughter of Juan Car-los, married in Seville in 1995. Builtto house visitors for the Iberoameri-can Exposition of 1929, this grandhotel features Moorish-style roomswith doors opening onto small bal-conies; they overlook a Spanishcourtyard with a bubbling fountainand potted palms. Set in front of thecity’s fabled Alcázar, the Alfonso XIIIis one of Spain’s most legendaryhotels. See p. 274.

• Hotel La Bobadilla, Loja (& 95-832-18-61; www.barcelolabobadilla.com): The most luxurious retreat inthe south of Spain, this secluded oasislies in the foothills of the SierraNevada, an hour’s drive northeast ofMálaga. Whitewashed casas (smallindividual villas) cluster around atower and a church. Each individu-ally designed casa is complete withroof terrace and balcony overlookingolive groves. Guests live in luxurywithin the private compound of 708hectares (1,749 acres). See p. 349.

• Marbella Club, Marbella (& 95-282-22-11; www.marbellaclub.com):Built during the Golden Age of theCosta del Sol (the 1950s), this bas-tion of chic is composed of ecologi-cally conscious clusters of gardenpavilions, bungalows, and small-scaleannexes. The luxurious rooms aremodeled after those displayed in aEuropean design magazine. The Mar-bella Club has many competitors butremains an elite retreat. See p. 330.

• Puente Romano, Marbella (& 800/448-8355 or 95-282-09-00; www.puenteromano.com): On manicuredand landscaped grounds facing thebeach, Puente Romano evokes ahighly stylized Andalusian village.Exotic bird life flutters through lushgardens planted with banana treesand other vegetation. Villas are spa-cious and beautifully outfitted with

tasteful wood furnishings, big mir-rors, and marble floors and bath-rooms. During summer, flamencodancers entertain here. See p. 331.

• Hotel Palace, Barcelona (& 93-510-11-30; www.rtizbcn.com): A 1919grand luxe hotel, this is one of thefinest hotels in Spain, if not in all ofEurope. Guests are treated to dazzlingelegance, with all the gilt, marble,and fresh flowers you would everwant. Classic Belle Epoque detailingextends to the plush guest quarters,many of which have high, ornate ceil-ings and gold bathroom fixtures. Seep. 402.

• Hotel María Cristina, San Sebastián(& 800/221-2340 or 94-343-76-00;www.westin.com): One of the coun-try’s great Belle Epoque treasures,this old-world seafront hotel has shel-tered discriminating guests since1912. Oriental rugs, antiques, pottedpalms, high ceilings, formal lounges,marble pillars, and marble floorsshow off a turn-of-the-20th-centuryglamour. The guest rooms are tradi-tional in style, with wood furnishingsand tasteful pastel fabrics. Nothingelse in the Basque country quitemeasures up to this old charmer. Seep. 525.

• La Residencia, Deià, Majorca(& 97-163-90-11): Set amid 12hectares (30 acres) of citrus and olivegroves, this tranquil hotel was con-verted from two Renaissance-eramanor houses. Jasmine-scented ter-races open onto panoramas of sur-rounding villages and mountains.Pampered guests are served a creativecuisine that features local produce.Leisure facilities include a swimmingpool fed by mountain spring water.Many of the guest rooms have regalfour-poster beds. The hotel is a havenfrom the rest of overcrowdedMajorca. See p. 615.

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11 The Best Hotel Bargains• Hostal del Cardenal, Toledo (& 92-

522-49-00; www.hostaldelcardenal.com): The summer residence ofToledo’s 18th-century Cardinal Loren-zano, built right into the walls of theOld City next to Bisagra Gate, thisjust happens to have Toledo’s bestrestaurant. But the setting—rose gar-dens, cascading vines, and Moorishfountains—makes it an ideal place tostay as well. Spanish furniture and ascattering of antiques recapture theaura of Old Castile. See p. 179.

• Hostería Real de Zamora, Zamora(& 98-053-45-45): Once the dreadedheadquarters of the local SpanishInquisition, today this hotel offers afar friendlier welcome. Guests enjoycoffee on the patio and the pleasuresof a garden planted along the city’smedieval fortifications. Imagine ifthese 15th-century walls could talk.See p. 215.

• Hotel Doña María, Seville (& 95-422-49-90; www.hdmaria.com): Nearthe fabled cathedral, this hotel boastsa rooftop terrace with unmatchedviews of the Andalusian capital. A pri-vate villa that dates from the 1840s,the Doña María has a swimming poolringed with garden-style lattices andantique wrought-iron railings. Guestrooms are uniquely designed withtasteful Iberian antiques. See p. 276.

• Husa Reina Victoria, Ronda(& 95-287-12-40; www.husa.es):This country-style hotel is bestknown as the place where the Ger-man poet Rainer Maria Rilke wroteThe Spanish Trilogy. Its terrace,perched on a dramatic precipice,offers commanding views of thecountryside. An Englishman builtthis Victorian charmer in 1906 tohonor his recently deceased monarch,Queen Victoria. See p. 300.

• Hotel América, Granada (& 95-822-74-71; www.hotelamericagranada.com): This former private villa,within the walls of the Alhambra, isone of the most popular small hotelsin Granada. Its cozy guest rooms arefilled with reproductions of Andalu-sian antiques. Plants cascade downthe white plaster walls and the ornategrillwork onto the shaded patio.Good-tasting, inexpensive meals areserved in the hotel restaurant. Seep. 314.

• Hotel Mijas, Mijas (& 95-248-58-00; www.trhhoteles.es): The mostcharming affordable hotel alongthe Costa del Sol, the Mijas isdesigned in typical Andalusian style,with flowering terraces, wrought-ironaccents, and sun-flooded guestrooms. Although built in the 1970s,it blends perfectly with the region’sgleaming white buildings. See p. 340.

• Huerto del Cura, Elche (& 96-661-00-11): From your room you’ll havea panoramic view of Priest’s Grove, aformidable date-palm forest. BetweenAlicante and Murcia, this is one ofthe choice addresses in the south ofSpain. Guest rooms are handsomelymaintained and beautifully fur-nished; a swimming pool separatesthe rooms from the palm grove. Theregional cuisine in the hotel’s restau-rant is excellent. See p. 380.

• Mesón Castilla, Barcelona (& 93-318-21-82; www.mesoncastilla.com):This two-star charmer with an ArtNouveau facade is right in the heartof Barcelona. It is well maintainedand well managed, with prices thatare blessedly easy on the wallet. Com-fortable rooms often come with largeterraces. Only breakfast is served, butmany nearby taverns serve excellentfood. See p. 401.

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12 The Best Restaurants• El Amparo, Madrid (& 91-431-

64-56): In the old days of Franco,gastronomes flocked to Jockey orHorcher. Today their savvy sons anddaughters head to El Amparo, thetrendiest of Madrid’s gourmet restau-rants. It serves haute Basque cuisineagainst a backdrop of cosmopolitanglamour. Patrons sample everythingfrom cold marinated salmon with atomato sorbet to ravioli stuffed withseafood. See p. 130.

• Sobrino de Botín, Madrid (& 91-366-42-17): Since 1725, this restau-rant has been celebrated for its roastsuckling pig, prepared in a 200-year-old tile oven. Hemingway even men-tioned it in The Sun Also Rises. Theroast Segovian lamb is equally delec-table. There is little subtlety of flavorhere—the food is prepared accordingto time-tested recipes that haveappealed to kings as well as Castilianpeasants. The aromas waft clearacross Madrid’s Old Town. Seep. 137.

• Mesón de Cándido, Segovia (& 92-142-59-11): Foodies from around thecountry flock to this 19th-centurySpanish inn, “The House of Cán-dido,” for one dish: roast sucklingpig, acclaimed as the best in Spain(even by Hemingway, who mightotherwise be seen at Botín inMadrid). In Spanish it’s calledcochinillo asado, and it’s delectable—prepared according to a century-oldrecipe. The cordero asado, or roastbaby lamb, is not as well known, butit’s equally flavorful. See p. 190.

• Mesón Casa Colgadas, Cuenca(& 96-922-35-09): Without adoubt, this is the most spectacularlysituated restaurant in Spain—a“hanging house” precariously sus-pended over a precipice. The food is

Spanish and international, with anemphasis on regional ingredients.The dishes can be ingenious, but theculinary repertoire usually includesproven classics that might havepleased your grandparents. Seep. 202.

• Chez Víctor, Salamanca; & 92-321-31-23): In the historic center of thisuniversity town, Chez Víctor is themost glamorous Continental restau-rant around. Chef Victoriano Sal-vador gives customers terrific valuefor their euros with his imaginative,oft-renewed menus. The freshly pre-pared fish and his traditional versionof roast lamb are especially tempting.Regionally rooted but modern inoutlook, Salvador has a finely honedtechnique and isn’t afraid to be inven-tive on occasion. See p. 212.

• El Caballo Rojo, Córdoba (& 95-747-53-75): Begin your eveningwith a sherry in the popular bar, fol-lowed by a visit to the traditional din-ing room. Not only Andalusiandishes are served here; some classicsare based on ancient Sephardic andMozarabic specialties. Most guestsbegin with a soothing gazpacho andwash everything down with sangria.Finish off the meal with one of thehomemade ice creams—we recom-mend pistachio. See p. 264.

• Torrijos, Valencia (& 96-373-29-49): The Costa Levante’s best restau-rant, in the city that’s said to have“invented” paella, this stellar restau-rant serves a Mediterranean andinternational cuisine, and does sosuperbly well. Expect a flavor-filledcuisine based on the freshest of ingre-dients. See p. 369.

• Jaume de Provença, Barcelona(& 93-430-00-29): The Cataláncapital has more great restaurants

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than even Madrid. At the westernend of the Eixample district, thisCatalán/French restaurant is thedomain of one of the city’s most tal-ented chefs, Jaume Bargués. Heserves modern interpretations of tra-ditional Catalán and southern Frenchcuisine—such dishes as pigs’ trotterswith plums and truffles, or crabmeatlasagna. His personal cooking reper-toire is distinctive, and he has beenknown to create new taste sensationswhen he’s feeling experimental. Seep. 416.

• Botafumeiro, Barcelona (& 93-218-42-30): The city’s finest seafood isprepared here, in a glistening, mod-ern kitchen visible from the diningroom. The king of Spain is a frequentpatron, enjoying paellas, zarzuelas, orany of the 100 or so ultrafreshseafood dishes. The chef ’s treatmentof fish is the most intelligent and sub-tle in town—but don’t expect suchquality to come cheap. See p. 419.

• La Dama, Barcelona (& 93-202-06-86): Among the most acclaimedrestaurants in Spain, this “dame”serves one of the most refined Catalánand international cuisines along thecountry’s east coast. Stylish and well

managed, it turns out masterpiecesbased on the season’s best in foodshopping. See p. 414.

• Empordá, Figueres (& 97-250-05-62): Although ordinary on the out-side, this hotel restaurant is one of thefinest on the Costa Brava. It was afavorite of Salvador Dalí, who oncewrote his own cookbook. HauteCatalán cuisine is the specialty—everything from duck foie gras withArmagnac to suprême of sea basswith flan. The flavors are refined yetdefinite. See p. 483.

• Akelare, San Sebastián (& 94-321-20-52): The Basques are renownedfor their cooking, and the owner-chefof this San Sebastián restaurant,Pedro Sabijana, pioneered the schoolof nueva cocina vasca (modern Basquecuisine). His restaurant has attractedgourmets from around Europe. Sabi-jana transforms such seemingly sim-ple dishes as fish cooked on a griddlewith garlic and parsley into some-thing magical. No other eatery innorthern Spain comes close to equal-ing the superb viands dispensed here.There are those (and we are amongthem) who consider Subijana the bestchef in Spain. See p. 527.

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