The Alpine Journal Alpine... · The Alpine Journal 1969-87 Compiled by J.R. Murray The Alpine Club, 74 South Audley Street, London WlY 5FF. ISBN 0 900523 56 5 Printed by Titus Wilson

Volumes 74 to 92

INDEX

The Alpine Journal1969-87

Compiled by J .R. Murray

The Alpine Club, 74 South Audley Street, London WlY 5FF

ISBN 0 900523 56 5

Printed by Titus Wilson & Son Ltd., Kendal, Cumbria.

ForewordThis index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume.The only illustrations that have been indexed are, in general, those ofsingle mountains or ranges which are likely to be helpful or of interest.Now that there are more articles about the Greater Ranges than theAlps, the Special Districts section in this index has been expanded toinclude Alpine articles.

I am grateful to Mr W.L. 'Robin' Robinson for his practical help andvery useful advice in compiling this index, and to Sheila Harrison forher work on the typescript and for coping with my hand-writing.

The following abbreviations have been used :art. = article M.E.F. = Mount Everest Foundation

Aig. = Aiguille Mt = Mount, Montasc. = ascent Mte = Monte

C.A.F. = Club Alpin Francais obit. = obituaryc.A.1. = Club Alpin Italiano port. = portrait

ed. = editor Pt = Pointexped(s) = expedition(s) Pta = Punta

Ln. = footnote Pte = Pointeill. = illustration U.I.A.A. = Union International

I.M.F. = Indian Mountaineering des AssociationsFederation d' Alpinisme

John Murray

3

1979, 852201980, 86223

1981, 872191982, 882031983, 892281984, 902401985, 91 2231986, 92233

Accidents:Transalai Pamir, 80 263Tukucha West, 76229Unnamed (Himachal Pradesh),

74226Vancouver, Mt, 74242

Aconcagua: new route on, 84241guidebook, 88 244asc. of S face, 89 159ill. 89 following 160

Acute mountain sickness:pulmonary & cerebral oedema,

art. 81 217; 89 68see also Oedema

Adam Smith, G.:early Alpine Club member, 87 142

Adam Smith, J.: 'A family centuryin the Alpine Club', 87 142

Adams, M:'Northern Andean Butterflies -

Search and Research', 89 90Adcock, D.: 'Yerupaja traverse: the

NZ expedition', 747Adesfjell:

1st asc. by SE cracks, 76 191Adiabatic Lapse Rate: 81 82Aerosols:

effect on atmosphere, 84247Africa: see also Atlas, Ethiopia,

Hoggar, Kenya, Kilimanjaro,Niger, Rhodesia, Ruwenzori,Uganda

East: triennial report 1971-3,79225

notes:1975, 81 2361976, 822351978, 84223

North: triennial report 1971-3,79226

South: triennial report 1971-3,79219

notes:1968, 741821969,7571,1501972, 782341974, 802611975, 812361978, 842231980, 86221

events & trends 1974-6, 82 227climbing scene, art. 85 182; 87 109Table Mountain, history of, 83 120guidebook to Mulanje Massif,

85221guidebook to Atlas Mts, 86 224

GENERAL INDEX

ABALAKOV, V.M.: obit. 92289Abi Gamin: 4th asc., 75 195Abominable Snowman:

investigation, 80 101-4notes, 80 285; 85 247

Abraham, A.P. & G.D.:their careers, art. 79 55

note on, 80284Access problems: in Britain, 83256

in USA, 83 257Accidents: statistics, 74 145

and equipment, 74307-8and rescue, 75 265Alpine 1968, 75 265Alpine 1969, 75 137Survey of British 1959-68, 75 265;

87234IMF concern about Himalayan,

87234Annapurna, 7632; 79 255; 84231;

85223-4Atrak Zorn South, 74 197Bethartoli Himal, 76 226Blanc, Mt (1870), 76287Blanc, Mt, Massif, 76 193Broad Peak, 82 132-3Buchaille Etive, 76 337-8Chomolhari, 76223Cook, Mt, 78 244Dhaulagiri, 75 197Dhaulagiri IV, 75 196; 79 255;

80264Eiger Nordwand, 74 67Everest, Mt, 80266; 81 13; 82 30,

34; 85223Everest, Mt, NE ridge, 88 262-5Fitzroy, 79 259Frundenhorn, 75 142Grand Capucin, 76 193Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur,

75139K2, 92215-7Kenya, Mt, 76 208Khinyang Chhish, 7724Koh-i-Bandaka, 74 196Lamtrang Lirung, 84 232Malubiting, 74 224; 76 189Manaslu, 79 18-20; 80 99Manaslu E face, 78241Matterhorn, 74 67Nanda Khat, 76 227Nanga Parbat, 76 221Peak 29, 76229Picos de Norte, Cordillera Real,

78204Shispare, 80225

4 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92

Agner, Mte: 1st British asc. of Nface, art. 74 36

by N ridge, 75 146Agnew of Lochnaw Yr., Sir C.H.,

Bt.: 'Elephant Island', 77 204'Crossing the Hielo Patagonico del

Norte', 7943'Soldiers on Api', 86 167

Agnolotti, G.: his book: (with G.Pettigiani) Cordigliera tra cielo e

ghiaccio, 86 255Agresti, H.: 'Winter Climbing in the

Mont Blanc Massif', 77 197(with I. Agresti) 'In the heart of

the Sahara: the Hoggar', 79 103Agresti, I.:

'El Gran Trono Blanco', 82 99Ahluwalia, Major H.P.S.: his books:

Higher than Everest. Memoirs of aMountaineer, 84262

Faces of Everest, 85253Aiguille du Midi: by SE face, 89 126Aiguille Verte: Cordier Couloir,

1st asc., 81 223Ainley, R.: obit. 79279Aioui: 1st ascs. on, 75 148Alam Kuh: 1st asc. by central pillar

of N face, 75 158Alaska: notes & new climbs:

74240-4 8324175206 8423476239 8522677 250 8622978247 8820780268 8922181243 9121582242 92223

triennial report 1972-74, 80 235climbing history, art. 81 19; 83 23;

84 64mountains listed, 81 33; map 81 20ill. 81 between 24 & 25ill. 83 between 24 & 25Juneau ice-field, art. 92 192Hunter's S ridge, art. 92 10

Alberta, Mt:1st asc. by N face, 78 247

Albigna, Pta d': asc., 78 133Albigna Valley: climbing from, art.

84 183Alburni range: climbs in, 78 131Alcock, D.: his book: (with K.

Wilson & J. Barry) ColdClimbs, 89 244

Algeria:Djurdjura mountains, note, 77243

Algie, Sir R.M.: obit. 85 259Ali Ratni Tibba: 1st asc., 75 9

by S face, 78 42local name of, 78434th asc., 79 22, 27

Allalinjoch: crossed, 74 89Allan, I.: 'The ice desert of

Kilimanjaro', 82171his book (editor): Guide to Mt

Kenya and Kilimanjaro, 88241Allen, c.: his book: A Mountain in

Tibet, 89 248Allen, J.:

'Attempt on Nampa 6755m',77126

Allen, R.: 'Through the Ice Windowto Nelion', 91 116

Allievi cirque:climbs in, 75 48, 144

Allsup, W.: obit. 75331Alpamayo: asc., 74 248

by E ridge, 75211height determined, 75 212

Alpine Climbing Group:proceedings:

74 352; 75284; 76290; 78 264;89279

Alpine Club: Alpine ClimbingGroup, union with, 78264

Annapurna Trek 1981, 87 186Avalanche symposium, 85241, 242archives, guide to, 78 71; 91 293exhibition of photographs, 89 277,

278exhibition of watercolours, 85 243Garhwal meet 1986, 92 85guidebooks, 74 355; 75 288joint meeting with R.G.S., 85241Karakoram meet 1985, 91 53Karakoram symposium 1986,

92317Honorary members, 75 283;

76 289; 88 289; 89 281honours & awards, 75 283; 76 289Alpine Journal: a check list,

86248-9new form of, 74351, 75287editorial staff, 75 283editors: 1863-95, 79 166; 1896-

1926, 80120review of vols 18-38, 80 125-7corrections to, 86244; 89281

GENERAL INDEX 5

842658525986262872618825589258902799126492280

Alpine Club:Library, re-organisation &

cataloguing, 74 356; 82255;83 255; 84252; 88 285; 89279;90 298; 92 318

children's books, 91 145Himalayan Index, 92 318management of Alpine Club,

83254membership anniversaries, 77271;

79271membership rules, 80 283membership survey, 91 291merger with Ladies Alpine Club,

81257obituaries:

74353,39175285,33176291, 32377272,28778264, 28179270, 27980282, 29581257,26782255,26583254,266

meetings & meets:74351 8425975283 8524176289 8624377271 8723178263 8829779270 8927780282 9029781256 9129182254 9231683253

role of, 74353; 75285treasures, rare books & pictures,

88 111; ill. 88 112-3Valedictory addresses by

Presidents: Evans, 767; Cox,79 1; Longland, 82 3; Lloyd,853; Jones, 889; Chorley, 919

Alps: notes & new climbs:74172 8422075136 8521776192 8621977235 8720778228 88 185, 21779253 8923080256 9025181234 9123182233 9224483233

road & resort building, 77 273-5

Alps:geology of, 80 56~61events & trends 1975-7, art. 84211a high level mountaineering route,

art. 87 41picture book: Les Alpes, Coeur del'Europe, 88 243

'The inexhaustible', art. 89 121report of 25th International

Congress, book: Les Alpes,90263

'The Big Triple Tick'(Nordwands), 92 165

'Climbing in the Swiss Alps in1983',92176

see also Special Districts pr. 63-65.Alpine ice routes: re-appralsal of

grades of, 87 207Altai: climbing in, art. with map& photos, 9047

Altimeters: use of, 84246Altitude:

history of, art. 8690medical problems of high, art.

78153Alto de los Leones:

by new routes, 76247Ament, P.:

his book: Master of Rock, 86 258America, North: see North AmericaAmerica, South: see South AmericaAmstutz, W.: 'A visit to the Ishinca

Valley, Cordillera Blanca1968',7439

'Turner - Promethean of AlpinePainting', 84 31

Amy, B.: his book (editor): Techniquede l'Alpinisme, 83264

Anderson, J.R.L.: his books:The Ulysses Factor, 76 305High Mountains and Cold Seas,

86251Anderson, R.A.L.: 'Avalanche on

Sisne - 1977', 83 73Andes: notes & new climbs: 76241;

77 252; 78252; 90 237M.E.F. notes, 92 239triennial report 1971-3, 79228events & trends 1974-6, 82 219legends of the high, art. 88 85expeditions, arts., 89 161; 92 20,

27, 37, 43, 67'Andes adventure', art. 90 184,ill. 90 between 184 & 185travel book: Adventuring in theAndes, 91 252

6 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Andes:

early British ascs. in, 92 61see also South America, Bolivia,

Peru, Cordilleras Blanca &Real, Ecuador & arts. byEchevarria, E.

see also Special Districts p. 66.Andorra: circuit of, art. 83 160

map & note on wild life, 84 254Andrasko, K.: (with T. Moore)

'Shining mountains, namelessvalleys: Alaska & the Yukon',PU 81 19; Pt.I1 83 23;PUll 84 64

Andrews, A.W.: pioneer ofcoasteering, 83 194

Andrews, P.: obit. 76323Aneto, Pic d': 1st asc., 84 24Ang Kami: death, 76226Angelini, G.: his book: Civetta -

per Ie vie del Passato, 84 263d'Angeville, Henriette:

pioneer woman climber, 81 91-2Anhalzer, J.: his book: (with

R. Navarette) Por los Andes delEcuador, 90 273

Annapurna Massif:All: 2nd asc., 75 198

3rd asc., 79 255AIV: ascs., 75 198; 76229

S face climbed, 82 239winter asc., 88 178

AI: 1st asc. by S face, 76 192nd asc. by N face, 76 89radio on, 76 274attempts, 79 255asc., 85223book of 1981 Swedishexpedition, 88244

AlII: 2nd asc., 76229A. South (Modi Peak):attempts, 77 249; 78 242

Ansilta, Cordillera de:1st asc. of Pico Fantin, 76249

Anson, Sir Wilfrid: obit. 80299Antarctica: notes, 74 239; 76 251;

80271; 82245; 88210; 89220exploration of, art. with map &

photos, 89 97triennial report 1970-2, 78217-9list of highest mountains, 86 235Joint Services expedition to

Brabant Island, art. 91 139M.E.F. notes, 92 239

Anthoine, J.V.: 'El Toro', 76 143'Trango Tower', 81 45'Trango Conclusion', 82 184

Anthoine, J.V.:'Trango Conclusion', 82 184'The British Ogre Expedition',

833Apennines, Central: climbing, art.

with map & photos, 78 121Api: attempt, 77248; 86 170Apollo missions: effects in

mountaineering, 75 281photos from, art. 75 66-68

Apolobamba, Cordillera:German expedition to, 74271Spanish expedition to, 75220

Apuan Alps: climbs in, 78 129Ararat, Mt:

climbing on, art. 89 145Archer, C.H.:

pioneer of coasteering, 83 194Argentiere, Aig. d':

by N face in winter, 75 141Argentina: notes & new climbs:

74273 8222475223 8424176248 8523177253 8623478251 8722679258 8820981249 90238

events & trends 1974-6, 82 224triennial report 1971-3, 79233

Arhueicocha: 1st asc., 75 212Aris, M.: his book: Views of

Mediaeval Bhutan, 89 238Arnao, C.M.: his books: Andinismo

en la Cordillera Blanca, 75 307Huascaran Climbing Guide, 87259

Arning, Dorothy: obit. 89 264Arolla: 50 years ago, 86 188Arolla, Pigne d': asc. on ski, 74 89Arora, D.C.: death, 76227Arrowsmith Range (NZ):

1st traverse, 74 238Artesonraju:

1st asc. by S face, 75 211Arzani, c.: his book: I Rifugio del

Club Alpino Italiano, 84263Asami, M.: (with M. Hara) 'Makalu

- first ascent by SE ridge', 76 35Ascotan:

Indian relics found on, 84 241Asgard, Mt: by new route, 7885,

ill. 78 86, 88Ash, J.: his book: (with L. Turner)

The Golden Hordes, 82 261Ashburner, J.: 'The first ascent of

Mukar Beh', 7458

GENERAL INDEX 7

Asimov, I.: his book: A Choice ofCatastrophes, 87 258

Asp-e-Safed: A-e-S. I: 2nd asc.,75 172 3rd asc., 78 184

A-e-S. II: 1st asc., 75 172A-e-S. SOuth: 1st & 2nd ascs. &

1st by N an~te, 75 172A-e-S. III: 1st asc., 76 215

Aspiazu, J.M.: his book: Alpinismoespanol en el mundo, 87253

Astronomy:from mountain observatories,

89173Ata-Ullah, Col. M.: obit. 84265Atlas Mts.:

ascs. in, 75 148; 76 204; 84 223notes on a spring trip, 82 235mountaineering in winter, art.

88206notes, 79 226-7

Atmospheric studies at Jungfraujoch:76133

Atrak Zorn South: 1st asc., 74 197Audoubert, L.: his book: PeutereyFantastique Integrale, 81263

Auldjo, J.: his book: Narrative ofan ascent to the summit of MtBlanc on 8th and 9th of August,1827, 83264

Ausangate:1st asc. by NE ridge, 75 219

Ausher (Owir I): 1st asc., 75 80Australia: notes:

74236 8026875202 8124376233 8224177219 8423378244 8522579256 86228

Western, mountains of, art. 7928climbing in, art. 91 133

Austria: effects of tourism, 85 240Auto-belayer:

note on, with diagrams, 76 280Auvergne, the: description of &

climbs in, 77 190Avalanches: on Ben Nevis 86 246;

in Lake District 86 246Aveyron Gorge: description of,

82147Avon Gorge:

early artificial climbing, 83 174

BADILE, Piz: 1st asc. by NE facedirettissima, art. 74 1

Badile, Piz:solo asc. of Cassin route on NE

face, 75 143asc. by a septuagenarian, art.

7748Baffin Island: ascs. in, 77 257

expedition to & asc. of MtAsgard's N peak by new route,art. 78 85

expedition to Cumberlandpeninsula, 79 261

Bagani Glacier: attempt on Pt.23,080ft. from, 74229

Bagani Pass: crossed, 74 229Bahuguna, H.: death, 77 16Baihali Jot: 1st asc., 75 40

Bahuguna Peak, 1st asc., 7925,27Bailey, A.: his book: LakelandRock, 91261

Baj Gaz Pass: search for, 76 163Bala, M.: 'Skhawr 1975', 82 210Balaltous, Mt: routes on, 80 135-6Balakun: 1st asc., 79 255Balcombe, G.: 'Great Gable to

Wookey Hole', 83 168Baldwin, Miriam:

'Over the Kangla Jot', 88 165'The Biancograt', 89 138'Margherita Guinea Pig', 91 126

Ball's Pyramid:2nd & 3rd ascs., 76 238; 77 2201st traverse, 79 256

Ballantine, A.: his book: (withJ. Blashford-Snell) Expeditions theExpert's Way, 83262

Ballard, J.: his book: (with E.Marshall) Rock Climbs in the Peak.Vol. 5: the Derwent Valley, 87258

Balloon, hot air:1st crossing of the Alps by, 79 162

Baltoro Kangri: climbed & skidescentfrom summit, 86 200

Balzetto, Piz (Bregaglia):climbed by octogenarian, 82 198

Bandar Punch (Black Peak):asc., 74228

Banks, M.:'The Uttermost North', 79 174his books: Greenland, 81265Mountaineering for Beginners,

83263Bara Bangahal: expedition to, 78 179Barbier, c.: obit. 83266


Barker, R.: his books:One Man's Jungle, 81266The Last Blue Mountain, 85252

Barley, R.: 'Some new routes inSouth Africa', 75 71

'Practice Crags in Scandinavia,78119

Barnaj: 1977 attempt, 84 87Barnes, M.E.: obit. 90288Barometer: as altimeter, 86 92Baroni, Pta:

1st asc. by E face, 74 178by new route on E face, 7550

Barratt, G.: obit. 89263Barrett, N.: 'Reflections on a First

Trip to the Himalaya', 90 84'The Lama and the Laser - Two

Years in Bhutan', 91 90Barry, J.: 'Come on lads - its no

worse than the Midi-Plan',8639

'Cold Climbing in Cymru', 89 165his books: The Great Climbing

Adventure, 91 249(with K. Wilson & D. Alcock)

Cold Climbs, 89 244Barry, R.G.: his book: (editor with

J.D. Ives) Arctic & AlpineEnvironments, 82262

Bartle, J.: his book: Trails of theCordilleras Blanca andHuayhuash of Peru, 90 266

'Huascanin National Park', 91 252Bartlett, P.: (compiler) 'Climbs and

Expeditions', 87 207'Area Notes 1982', 88 183

Barton, R.: 'LauterbrunnenBreithorn - North face', 79 71

'Bhagirathi III', 88 49Baruntse: asc., 90 91Baryla, J.: (with M. Brniak) 'The

Mountains of Mongolia', 86 103Bates, R.:

his book: (with C. Houston) K2 -the Savage Mountain, 85 252

Batin Peak:1st asc. of N summit, 74 194

Battimelli, G.: 'Sea cliff climbingat Gaeta', 84 139

Battrick, Elisabeth: her book:A Lakeland Summer, 86259

Baudha: ascs., 76 229; 77 249Baume, L.: his book:

Sivalaya. The 8000 metre peaks ofthe Himalaya, 84 258

'The Picos de Europa', 86 171

Bazel, Pte de: new routes on, 76 194Bean, P.: 'The North of England

Himalayan expedition 1975',8283

'East Kulu 1977', 83 149Beard, E.: obit. & port., 75 339Beaumont, Sir J.: seventy years'

membership of Alpine Club,77271

Beckey, F.: his book: Mountains ofNorth America, 89 247

Beechey, c.: 'A day on the Northridge of the Peigne', 82 186

'Mont Blanc again after 28 years',8517

Beechey Island, Antarctica: 89 108Beer, Dora H. de:

'A Mountain in China', 90 35obit. & port., 88 257

Beer, Sir G.R. de: obit. 78282Belaying: on snow, the use of the

'deadman', 74 327-31Beldin, D.: guidebooks to Verdon,

90 273Bell, Gertrude:

climbing career, 82 103-4Bell, Rev. J.A.H.:

'A Winter Diary 1925-26', 8837poems, 89 112obit. 88256

Bellet, J.: his book: Le Col duMont Cenis, 83262

Bellows, Grace: her book: A Geniusfor Friendship, 89 248

Bennet, D.: his book: ScottishMountain Climbs, 85256

Bennet, G.: his book:Beyond Endurance, 89 241

Bennett, M.: 'The Association ofBritish Members of the SwissAlpine Club - the first 75 years',89179

Ben Nevis:winter climbing, art. 80 185observatory, history of, 90 267

Benuzzi, F.: his book:Mattia Zurbriggen, 89 250

Berardini, L.:his book: (with R. Paragot) Vingt

Ans de Cordee, 80 290Bere, R.: 'Mammals of the East

African Mountains', 79 179'Is there an Abominable

Snowman', 80101

9GENERAL INDEX

Bingham, J.S.M.:obit. 90 280; 91 266

Biology: see Science notesBirtles, G.: 'Events and Trends

1974-7 British Isles', 83 227Biven, P.: obit. & port., 82266Bivouac tents: description, 85 237Bjl'lrnstad, E.: 'Sandstone towers of

the American South West desert',8410

Black Forest:climbing in, art. 84 142

Blackburn, Mt: climbed, 81 30;ill. 81 31

Blackshaw, A.: retiring as Editor ofAlpine Journal, 75 283

his book: Mountaineering, 76 311'Scandinavian Ski traverse 1973-7',

8391Blaitiere, Aig. de:

ski descent, 74349Blakeney, T. S.: retires as Assistant

Editor of Alpine Journal &becomes Honorary member,75283

'The roof of the world fromApollo 7', 75 65

'The first steps towards MountEverest', 76 43

'The Alpine Journal and itsEditors', 79 166, 80 120, 81 153

obit. 83267Blanc, Mt:

by Sentinelle Rouge, 74 172new climbs & notes, 76 192;

77 237; 78 228ski descent of N face, art. 77 136winter climbing in Massif of, art.

771971st solo asc. of entire Peuterey

arete, 78 2291st asc. by Brouillard glacier &

upper Peuterey ridge in 1877,82215

bicentenary, art. with ills. 91 150Alpine Club delegation to

bicentenary, 92 316book: Savage Snows, 92260rock climbing guide to, 92277

Blanc du Tacul, Mt: by Gervasuttipillar, 74173

ski descent of Gervasutti couloir,74349

solo asc. by Gervasutti pillar,75 138; 76 193

winter asc., 78 10

Beresford, A.B.: his book:55-60 Years of Mountaineering inSouth Africa, 86256

Bergfiihrergipfel (Nepal Himalaya):1st asc., 7917

Bergseeschijen:by E wall pillar, 76 200

Bernina: ski mountaineering in,art. 78 139

Berruex, M.:his book: (with M. Parmenter) LesGrands Raids a Ski, 90274

Berry, G.: his book:A Tale of Two Lakes, 89248

Bersezio, L.:his book: (with P. Tirone) MontBlanc, 90 266

Bethartoli Himal: attempt, 76 2251st asc., 83 239

Bethartoli South:2nd & 3rd ascs., 76 226

Bettembourg, G.:his book: (with M. Brame) TheWhite Death, 90276

Bezruchka, S.: his book: A Guide toTrekking in Nepal, 87256; 91 259

Bhagirathi peaks:BII ascended, 74228BIV 1st asc., 78 240BIll climbed by SW pillar, art.

8854ill. 88 preceding 49BI 1st asc. of W ridge, 89 189

Bhutan: exploring peaks of NW, art.83183

mountaineering in, 90 10-14;arts. 90 21; 91 90, 94;map, 90 12-13see also Special Districts p. 73

Bickel, L.: his book:This Accursed Land, 84 260

Bicknell, P.: 'The picturesque, thesublime and the beautiful',8533

'Treasures of the Alpine Club,Rare Books & Pictures', 88 111

his books: Beauty, Horror andImmensity, 87 258

(editor) The IllustratedWordsworth's Guide to theLakes, 90 268

(with C. Warren) 'Homage toJ.M.W. Turner', 91161

Biner, B.:unveiling of plaque to, 92175


Blanca, Cordillera:ascs. in, 74247; 76241; 77252ascs. of Huandoy & Chopicalqui,

82167, 1681st ascs. in, 83 243-5topography & mountaineering in,

art. 85200climbing in, art. with photos,

90184monographs on mountaineering in,

92271Blanchard, S.: his book: Walking Up

and Down in the World, 92269Blandy, Mrs E.: death, 75341Blashford-Snell, J.: his book: (with

A. Ballantine) Expeditions theExperts' Way, 83262

Bleaklow: moorland marathonwalks, 8071-82

Bledisloe, Viscount (B.L. Bathurst):obit. 85259

Bliimlisalphorn:by N face direct, 76 198asc. by 12 year old, 79 205

Blyth, R.G.:'A Heinous Crime', 90 198

Board game:'Assault on Mt Everest', 86257

Boardman, P.:'Hindu Kush - Alpine Style',

79111(with R. Richards) 'British Everest

Expedition SW face 1975', 81 3his books: The Shining Mountain,

84258Sacred Summits, 88 228loss of, 88 263obit. & port., 88 266

Boehm, W.D.: his book:Glacier Bay, 82 261

Boeing Ledge:Central Tower of Paine, 80 11-15

Bogner, N.: his novel:Snowman, 88242

Bohemia: climbing areas, 82 74Bojohagar: attempt on, art. 90 77Bolivia: notes, 74 271; 80 270;

84 239; 85 229; 89227triennial report 1971-3, 79232events & trends 1974-76, 82223

Bonatti, W.: his books:The Great Days, 80289On the Heights, 85 252Magie du Mont Blanc, 90277

Bonicelli, P.: his book:Pukajirka '81, 90262

Bonington, c.J.S.:'Annapurna South Face', 76 19'Dougal Haston - a tribute', 83 132'China 1982', 88 190'China 1983', 89 193'Antarctica - Mt Vinson', 89 220'China 1985', 91 201his books: Annapurna South Face,

76300Everest South West Face, 79249The next horizon, 79249(with others) Changabang, 81 264

Everest the hard way, 83 260Quest for adventure, 87247

Kongur, China's Elusive Summit,88231

(with C. Clarke) Everest, theUnclimbed Ridge, 89237

The Everest Years. A Climber'sLife, 92266

Bonne Pierre, Pte de, les Ecrins:1st British asc., 76 194

Books:reviews of various, 77 280; 78 274also see under individual book

reviews in each vol.Booth, B.: 'The 1971 eruption of Mt

Etna', 77 66'Recent activity on Mt Etna',

78137'Continents in Collision', 8043his book: (with F. Fitch)

Earthshock, 86 257Booth, H.: obit. 91 267Boothman, F.: 'The mountains of

Tibet and the Tibet-Chinaborder', 87 83

Boots, mountain:construction of, 81 133-42double-single, 85236for Nordic ski-ing, 86 238

Borneo, North:climbing on Mt Kinabalu, art.

90187;map, 90188

Borthwick, A.: his book: Always alittle further, 75 312; 89251

Borwick, G.R.:'Mountaineering Ropes', 78 62

Boscacci: his book: (with others)Montagne di Valtellina e

Valchiavenna, 89245Bossus, P.:

'Climbing on the Saleve', 80 214

GENERAL INDEX 11Botswana:

climbing & walking in, art. 8438Boundary Range: ascs. in, 74 241Bourrit: his book: Descriptions desAspects du Mont Blanc, a

facsimile edition of bookpublished in 1776, 83 262

Bouvier, J.-P.: 'The Seventh grade inFrance', 8775

his book: Rock Climbing inFrance, 90 263

Boval, Piz: asc., 81 127-8Bowden, F.P.: obit. 74391Braham, T.H.:

'North West Karakoram 1970',76163

'The Himalaya - winds of change',7857

his book: Himalayan Odyssey,80251

Brailsford, J.: his books: DolomitesWest & Dolomites East, 76313

(with L. Griffin) 'Ten DauphineIce Climbs', 87 180

Braking in rope handling: 74316Brammah: attempt, 77 165

1st asc., 79 2542nd asc., 84 103, ill. 84 104

Brammah's Wife:attempt & 1st & 2nd ascs., 86 183

Bramona, R.: 'Spanish expedition toSaraghrar 1977', 83 210

'The 1977 Spanish expedition toDhaulagiri 1', 85 190

Brandt, M.: (with E. Pyatt)'Mountain Landscape - theJura', 78 146

Braun, B.: his book: 1m Eis undFeuer der Anden, 87 260

Brautschen, J.: obit. 74 394Breche de Roland:

crossing on skis, 86 76Bregaglia:

1971 British ascs. in, 77242Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen:

1st British asc. by N face, 79 71Brenta Alta: ascs., 74 179Brett, D.: his book:High Level, 89252

Brevoort, Meta:climbing career, 81 95-96

Brewster, B.: death, 7467Bridel, D.G.: death, 79270Bridge, A.W.:

'The Technique of Falling', 83 48obit. 77294

Bridge, G.: 'Satellite pictures ofmountains', 83 28

Brigham, B.: 'Underfootinformation, history of theclimber's boot',

81133Brightman, D. St. J.:

'Ski descent of Mont Blanc',77136

Britannia Hut, Saas Fee: Britishconnections & celebrations, 89 180

British Columbia:interior ranges of, 78 1; 79 34

British Isles: notes & new climbs:74288 8125075248 8224576252 8324777258 8424278220 8523279261 8623580273

Scotland: 89216; 90 243guidebooks: 86 236

British Mountaineering Council:new constitution, 74 361notes, 75 291; 76 293

Brniak, M.:'The Tatra Mountains', 81 119'Training grounds of Poland',

81213'Mountaineering & Motor Bikes',

82248'Main ridge of the Tatra', 82 233'Anglo-Polish Hindu Kush

Exp«dition 1977', 84 137'Kohe-Skhawr', 84 172'International Alpine Camp

Pamirs 1978', 85 83(with J. Baryla) 'The Mountains of

Mongolia', 86 103Broad Peak:

1st women's asc., 89 11-15Broad Peak Middle: 1st asc., 82 132Broad Peak North:

1st solo asc., 89 212Broadhead, D.:

'Mountains of the Thui Gol',82115

'The International MountaineeringCamp 1984', 92 122

Broadhead, Margery: obit. 88261Brochkogel:

solo ski descent of S face, 75 33


Brock, W.H.: his book: (compilerwith others) John Tyndall,Essays of a NaturalPhilosopher, 88240

Brockbank, P.:'Moorland Marathons', 80 71

Brocklebank, T.A.:obit. 90 282; 91 264

Brook, Elaine:her book: (with J. Connelly) The

Windhorse, 92 273Brook, P.: obit. 79279Brooke, R.: 'Triennial Report 1970-2

Polar regions', 78 213'A married man's Alpine holiday',

81196Brooks Range (Alaska):

ascs. in, 74 240; 75 206Browell, M.: his book: (with others)

Climbs in the Peak. Vol. 6Staffordshire area, 87 257

(with R. Brown) 'South PembrokeHazards', 90 148

Brown, H.: 'The Julian Alps: Kugy'sKingdom', 82 95

'About Irghil M'Goun and theBou Gomez', 84 3

'The Ridge of Dreams', 92 150his books:Hamish's Mountain Walk, 84 261Hamish's Groat's End Walk,

87259The Great Walking Adventure,

92270Travels, 92275anthology: Poems of the Scottish

Hills, 88235poems: 'Music' 89 128'By the Crags' 92 36books of collected poems:Eye to the Hills, 88247Time Gentlemen, 89251

Brown, R.: (with M. Browell)'South Pembroke Hazards', 90 148

Brown, T.G.:centenary exhibition, 88252

Bruce, J.G.: obit. 78283Bryson, D.C.: obit. 85260Buchner, R.: 'Climbing in the

Franconian Jura in SouthGermany', 83 139

Bueler W.: his book:Mountains of the World, 84262

Buffalo Gorge, North Wall:note re grading of climbs, 76238

Buhl, H.: his climbs, 74 53Buildings: climbing on, 83256;

84255; 85 246; 86 245Bull, D.C.: obit. 80299Bullock Workman, Fanny:

climbing career, 82 104-6Buni Zorn Group:

ascs. in, 77 246; 85 150Bunting, P.: 'Imperial College

Cordillera Real Expedition 1972',78201

Burdsall, R.L.:his book: (with A.E. Emmons)

Men against the Clouds, 86259Burgess, Adrian: 'Some

considerations on HimalayanWinter Climbing', 89 207

Burgess, AI: his book:(with J. Palmer) Everest, the

Ultimate Challenge, 90266Burgundy - the Cote d'Or:

climbing crags, 80213Burke, M.: 'Vertical desert: the nose

of EI Capitan', 74 125obit. 81 268

Burkett, M.E.: her book:(with J.D.G. Sloss) William Green

of Ambleside, Lake DistrictArtist, 90 271

Burney, Mt: asc., 80 3Burns, M.: 'One-man Expeditions

and their problems', 89 168Burroughs, W.: 'Atmospheric studies

at Jungfraujoch', 76 133Buscaini,G.: his book:

Ortles-Cevedale. Parco Nazionaledello Stelvio, 90259

Busk, D.: his book: ArmandCharlet - Portrait of a Guide,81265

'Because it wasn't there', 90 170Butler, A.J.: Editor of Alpine

Journal, 79 172Butler, Sir J.: obit. 82 268Butterflies: N Andean, art. 8990Buzzard, J.H.: obit. 90280

C.A.F. (Provence Sect.): its book:Les Calanques, 86 257

C.A.I.(Turin Sect.): 'Climbs nearTurin - Rocca Sbarua', 86 152;87137(Cuneo Sect.): its book:Montagne Nostre, 84263

Caiman, Col du: by NW face, 75 138

GENERAL INDEX 13

Calanques:climbing in, 77 185; 8524threat by proposed road, 79 272guide books, 85 32topography, 85 22general handbook, 86 257

California: climbing in Yosemite,art. 74 92, 125

notes & new climbs, 74 242, 245Calvert, H.: his book:Smythe's Mountains, 91 249

Cambales, Pic de: asc., 8672Cambrena, Piz:

by the ice nose, 78 134Cambridge: co1\ege climbs, 81 55-6Cameron, D.: 'First crossing of the

Alps by Hot-Air Ba1\oon', 79 162Cameron, I.: his book:Mountain of the Gods, 90264

Campbe1\-Ke1\y, B.: 'ParqueNacional de los Glaciares,Patagonia', 81 191

his book: A PatagonianHandbook, 81266

Canada: S Logan mountains, 74 108winter ice-climbing in, 79257notes & new climbs: 82243;

83 242; 84 235; 85 227; 86 230Canadian Arctic, 89221; 91 215;

92223Western, descriptive art. with

photos & maps, 90229Juneau ice-field, art. 92 192

Cape Farewe1\:mountaineering prospects, 80 208

Cape Province: climbs in, 75 74Capitan, EI: 1st British asc. by the

Nose, 74125by Salathe Wa1\, 75 25

Cappon, M.: his book:Rock and Ice Climbing, 89247

Capucin, Grand:by E face direct, 74 173

Capurata (Chile): 1st asc., 74273Carabaya, Cordi1\era:

ascs. in, 77 211; map 77 212Carleton, Janet: see Adam-Smith, J.Caroux, the: 81 212Carpendale, R.D.S.: obit. 82268Carr, Evelyn: obit. 91 268; 92 281Carr, H.: 'A Victorian Surveyor-

Artist in the Himalaya andKarakoram', 83 12

his book (editor): The IrvineDiaries, 85 249

obit. 92297

Carrington, R.: 'Some soberingthoughts on Nepalese climbing',88201

Carstensz Massif (New Guinea):expedition to, 78 188

Carstensz Pyramide (New Guinea):climbed, 78 192

Carter, H. A. :'1978 American K2 Expedition'

84 52'North America 1982', 88207

Casanova, 0.: his book: EscursioniNei Parchi Alpini, 84 263

Case, J.e.: obit. 92284Cashbrair: 1st asc., 74 226

correction re., 75 186Cassin, R.: 'The West face of

Jirishanca 1969', 75 1'Italian climbing between the

wars', 77 149his books: 50 years of Alpinism,

87251(with G. Nangeroni) Lhotse 75,

83263Caste1\o, Cima di: 1st asc. by

central pillar of S face, 75 50, 144Caucasus: British-Soviet 1970

expedition, 76 111climbing in, art. 86 126International Mountaineering

Camp in, 1984, art. 92 122British Caucasus expedition 1986,

art. 92 129Caving: in Britain, art. 80 111Cedarberg: art. 81 128Cengalo, Piz: by N ridge, 74 177

by N buttress, 76 202Cernfk, A.: his book: Truny Bohu,

87260Cerro Stanhardt: 1st asc., 83 245Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Alison:

obit. 84271Chalk climbing: in France, 76173Challis, D.H.: 'Three Peaks in

Chamba-Lahul 1969', 75 39'One and a half in the Alps'

79203'Forty-four and a half in the

Himalaya', 85 154Chamlang: 1st ascs. of E & central

summits, 90 92Chamonix: Chamonix, une vallee deshommes, descriptive book, 90259

Champion, J.A.: 'Single Crystals -natural and synthetic', 78 98

14 INDEX TO

Changabang: 1st asc., 80 151, 239,ill. 80 154, 156ref. to & photo, 81 69-70ascs. by new routes, 82 2391st asc. by W face, 8223

Chap Darrah: 1st ascs. from, 76 215Chapman, F.S.: obit. & port, 77 291Chappez, M.: his book:

La Haute Route, 81 264Chaputschin II: ski asc., 75 128Chardonnet, Aig. du:

description of traverse, 82 142Charleson, 1.G., obit. 80300Charlet, A.: obit. 82 269Chartreuse group:

descriptive art. 82 120Chaturangi Glacier: 1st asc. of Peak

20,684ft. from, 75 195Chaudhara: 1st asc., 79255Chaupi Orco: 1st traverse, 75 221Cheesmond, D.: 'The Mummer -

Cordillera del Paine, Chile',84117

Cheney, M.: 'Events and Trends1970-76Nepal Himalaya',83218

'Letter from Kathmandu', 88 199'Notes for Expeditions to Nepal',

89203'Tourist Portage', 90 208

Cheverst, W.: death, 78264Chew, F.R.G.: obit. 76323Chhutidum glacier:

map & reconnaissance, 74205-6Chi Gari glacier:

1st ascs. from, 75 169Chickar Zorn: 2nd asc., 74204Chicon III: 1st asc., 79 258Chien, Rocher du: 87 135Chile: notes & new climbs:

74273 8424175223 8522976247 8623478251 8722679258 88209'81249 8922782224 90238

Triennial report 1971-3, 79233travels in the Puna de Atacama,

art. with maps & photos,90176-83

Chilpariti (Peru): asc., 74 267Chimborazo:

1st asc. by N ridge, 74247

VOLUMES 74-92China: Kongur Massif, art. 867

notes re climbing in, 86227expedition to Da Xue Shan, art.

87117new climbs, 88 190; 89 193;

90 213; 91 201book: High Mountain Peaks in

China, 88 243mountaineering in, art. with

map & photos, 90 23a mountain in, art. 90 35caving in, M.E.F. note, 92243

Chitral: 1971 expedition to, 78 183Chobani La: pass in E Kishtwar,

map, 8935-37Chogolisa:

1st traverse of, art. 92 74Cholatse: 1st asc., 88 27Chomolhari: 2nd asc., 76 233

ref. to & photos, 83 184, 188Chongra Peak, Kashmir:

1st asc., 78 240Chopicalqui, Nevado:

1st asc. by SE ridge, 75 13Chorley, Lord: obit. 84 265Chorley, Katherine, Lady:

obit. 92310Chorley, R.: as President of Alpine

Club, Valedictory Address, 919Chouinard, Y.: his books:

Climbing Ice, 84259Glace et Neige - Art et Technique,

87256Chrobak, E.: 'New route on the

Grand Pilier d'Angle, MtBlanc', 75 95

'Pointe Heh~ne', 77 61Chrystal, 1.:

'The Oberreintal', 91122Chugach Range: ascs. in, 74241Chulu East:

Alpine Club asc. of, 87 196Chulu Peak: expedition to, art. with

map, 9097Churen Himal: Italian attempt,

751961st & other ascs., 76 228central peak, 1st & 2nd ascs.,

771071st asc. of W peak, 77 109ill. 77 106, 108, 109

Cilo Dag: ascs. in, 75 156Citadel, Alaska:

1st asc. of E buttress, 83 241

GENERAL INDEX 15

Civetta: Torre Trieste by Cassin- Climbing walls: 80 278Ratti route, 74 179 Clinch, N.: his book:

by the Aste-Susatti route, 75 146 A Walk in the Sky, 89249Clarbrough, M.: 'Nevado Clothing: design & materials for

Chopicalqui, mountain wear, 86 138SE ridge', 75 13 Clough, I.S.: 'A flying visit to the

Clarence Island (Antarctica): asc. Slovak High Tatra', 7495of highest peak on, 76 251; 77 205 death, 75285; 7632

Clark, G.: 'Himalayan Sojourn', obit. & port., 76324; 7729578 38 Clubs: notes on various

Clark, J.F.G.: obit. & port., 75331 mountaineering, 74360-4;fatal accident to, 76337 75290-3; 76293

Clark, R.W.: 'Play up, play up and Cohen, G.: 'A Short Walk in theplay the game!', 81 160 Pilgun Gad', 8979

his books: The Alps, 79250 Cohen, V.D.: obit. 90285Men, Myths and Mountains, 83259 Coleman, M.:

Clarke, A.B.: his book: 'Les Courtes Solo', 80 141Rock Climbing, 86257 Collins, Hilary: 'The Snow

Clarke, c.: 'The Kishtwar Himalaya Mountains of Irian Jaya', 85 118Expedition 1971',77164 Collister, R.:

'The first ascent of Swargarohini', 'Parbati South 1973', 79 12180 195 'The Hidden Valley', 79 189

his books: (with C. Bonington) 'Grands Charmoz in Winter', 81 65Everest, the Unclimbed Ridge, 'A Summer in Gilgit 1975', Pt.I89 237 82 158; Pt.II 83 64

(with A. Salkeld, editors) Light- 'Kishtwar from the other side',weight Expeditions to the Great 83 206Ranges, 90 275 'Small expeditions in the

Clarke, M.N.: obit. 83268 Himalaya', 84166Cleare, J.: 'Grigna', 76 169 'Adventure versus the mountain',

'Thirteen nations on Mount 89 123Everest', 779 Collomb, R.G.:

'Sea Stacks', 79 47 'Corsica Mountains', 87 100'Ruwenzori', 82 12; colour his books: Selected Climbs in the

photos 8216-17 Bernese Alps, 74379'Ski Mountaineering in China. The Graians East, Zermatt & District,

Ascent of Mustagh Ata', 88 29 75 314his books: Mountains, 81 228; Bernese Alps West, 7631783263 Corsica Mountains, 88249

Collins Guide to Mountains & Picos de Europa, 89 255Mountaineering, 85 250 Collon, Mt:

Mountaineering, 86259 by central ridge of N face, 75 141Cliff, P.: 'British Alpine Ski Collon, Petit Mt:

Traverse 1972', 78 13 by N face of W peak, 75 141Climatology: see Science Notes Colombel, Christine de: her book:Climbers: main German & Austrian Voix de Femmes au K2, 90274

since 1930, 7447 Colombia: triennial report 1971-3,analytical art. 77 96 79 228; 82 220Playgrounds - Europe - a series of new climbs, 84237; 85229; 89226

short reports: see Special Central Cordillera of, 82 49Districts p. 63. mountaineering bibliography,

Climbing: future of British in the 82 551970's, art. 78 89 Colorado plateau: geological

techniques at high altitude, 79246 features incl. Grand Canyon,psychological aspects of advanced art. with photos & diagrams,

rock, 82 88 87 121


Columbia, Mt:by N face & N ridge, 76240

Combin de Valsorey:by NW face, 76 200

Commando Peak (Ellesmere Island):1st asc., 79 176

Communism, Peak:1st asc. by S face, 7425parachute landings on, 74349climbing routes on, 78 174-5information in book: Sur Ie Toif

du Monde, 84259Competition:

climbing, in the USSR, 80 90in climbing, art. 83 112-4note on, 84254

Compton, E.T.: exhibition of hispictures, 74 341

book of his paintings: Maler undBergsteiger zwischen Fels undFirn, 88227

Condoriri Norte:1st asc. by SW ridge, 75 221

Confin, Fuorcla del: crossed, 7484Connelly, Julie:

her book: (with E. Brook) TheWin dhorse , 92 273

Connor, T.: 'Triennial Report 1969-71 North America', 77 229

additional notes 1971, 77250'Corsica', 78 144'Triennial Report 1972-74North

America', 80 235'Mountain Winds', 8181'Angouleme - The Rocks of Eaux

Claires', 81 215'Equipment and Technique 1975',

81252'Regional Notes 1976', 82 233'Equipment and Technique 1976',

82247'Regional Notes 1977', 83233'Equipment and Technique 1977',

83248'Regional Notes 1978', 84220'Equipment and Technique 1978',

84244'Science Notes 1978', 84246(with E. Pyatt) 'Science Notes

1979', 85 238'Equipment and Technique 1980',

86237'Regional Notes 1980', 86 219'Science Notes 1980', 86 238'Science Notes 1981', 87 227'Science Notes 1982', 88 221

Consolation Peak:ascs., 76 225; 79 22, 27

Contamine, A.: obit. & port., 91 272Conversions, metric: 76 285Conway, W.M.:

Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 172Conway's Ogre: attempt, 86 191Cook, Mt: ascs., 74217; 75204;

79256; 82551st by Caroline face, 76 238climbing history, 82 60;ill. 8259, 61attempted in 1882, 87 159

Cook, R.: obit. 92285Coolidge, W.A.B.:

Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 170Cooper, W. Heaton: his books:

The Hills of Lakeland, 90 260Mountain Painter - An

Autobiography, 90269Cordier, P.: his book:

Les Pre-Alpes du Sud, 88 239Cornwall:

sea cliff climbing, art. 87 67Corsica:

ascs. in, 74 180; 75 147; 78 144art. with map & photos, 87 100guidebook to, 92 272

Coupe, S.: his book: En Chartreuseet Vercors, 87256

Courtes, Les: by NE spur, 74 176winter asc. by N face, 7823solo asc., 80 143

Couture, B.: 'Mountain parachute-jumping', 76 99

Cox, A.D.M.: as President of AlpineClub, Valedictory address, 79 1

'Early years', 85 89Craig, M.: 'Mont Ventoux', 83 128

'Dent Blanche', 87 9Craig, R.W.: his book: Storm and

Sorrow in the High Pamirs, 80261Crampons: 17th century, 75 277

early use of, 7628715th century, 77 269introduction of strapless, 85 236

Cranfield, Ingrid: her book:The Challengers, 82 263

Crepin, F.R.: obit. 92295Crevasses: accidents, 86 184; 87 28Crew, P.: his book: Encyclopaedic

Dictionary of Mountaineering,74370

GENERAL INDEX 17

Crocket, K.:'Scotland 1981-83', 89 216'Scottish Winter Notes 1983-4',

90 243'Winter climbing on Beinn an

Dothaidh', 91 129'Scottish Winter 1984-5', 91 221'Scottish Winter 1985-6', 92 229his book: Ben Nevis, 92267

Croix de Provence:rock-climbing area, 80 189-91

Crombie, T.: obit. 90 279Crooked Finger (Kishtwar):

asc., 75190Croucher, N.: his books:High Hopes, 83261A Man and his Mountains, 90276

Cruz, M.: his book:Die Schneeberge Ecuadors, 90 273

Crystals: natural & synthetic,art. 7898

Cuernos Norte: 1st asc., 78 198Culbert, R.: 'The Chief', 80 105Cumiana, Denti di:

rock climbs near Turin, 87 137Cunningham, J.: (with W. March)

'New Ice Climbing Techniques andEquipment', 77 75

Curran, J.:'Cordillera Apolobamba', 91 135his book: Trango, the NamelessTower, 85 254

Cuthbertson, D.: his guide: CreagDubh and Craig-a-Barns, 89254

Cyprus:note on the mountains of, 76204

Czechoslovakia:sandstone rocks in, 78 116

DADSON, R.S.: obit. 92295Daffern, A.: his book: AvalancheSafety for Skiers & Climbers,

89242Daintar Pass: crossed, 76 166Dakura, Peak 29: attempted, 75 199

possible 1st ascs., 76 229; 85 223;89185

Dalmatian Coast: climbs, 81 203Damesme, M.: (with T. de Lepiney)

'The early years of the Groupe deHaute Montagne', 75 109

Dan Beard, Mt: summit reached,8065

ill. also showing Mt McKinley,8063

Dangar, D.F.O.: 'The highestmountains 1968-77', 84 29

'A record of the First Ascents ofthe Fifty Highest Mountains',89184

Daniells, T.: his book:Southern Sandstone, 88241

Darrahe Qalat: climbs in, 82 83-5Darvill, Jm., F.T.: his book:Mountaineering Medicine, 74378

Darwin, Cerro: asc. of true, &Shipton's renamed, 79260

Darwin, c.: his book: TheIllustrated Origin of Species,

85256Dauphine:

1971 British ascs. in, 77 235Pre de Madame Carle - origins of

name, 85 243ice climbs in, art. 87 180new climbs, 87 208

Davies, c.: 'Saussois', 77 183Davis, c.J.: obit. 88256Dawson, Dr P.: (with Dr J. Uhrig)

'Sherpas & sickness', 89 80Day, M.W.H.:

'Tirich Mir 1969', 75 79'Annapurna - N face route', 76 89' ... every advantage that the wit of

man can devise', 79 246'Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China',

87117Deadman:

construction & uses of, 74 327Deborah, Mt: 1st asc. of N face, ill.

art. 8350colour photos, 83 between 24 & 25

Deelen, F.A.J.: death, 77272Della Beffa, F.: (with L. Gasparini)

'Grigna', 83 106Demavend: asc., 75 158

attempt, 78 39Dent Blanche:

history of, 879-19, 164-6O.G. Jones killed on, 1899,

8716-17Dental:

emergencies in the mountains,8246

Deoban: ascs. of Pt. 21,390ft.,74228,229

Deo Tibba: asc. & ski descent,75 193

1st asc. by N ridge & 1st traverse,7738

ascs., 79 22, 27


Derbyshire: new climbs, 80275Desio, M.: his book:

K2, Verso il Cielo, 89 247Desmaison, R.: his book:

Total Alpinism, 89245; 90261Desor, E.: 'First ascent of the

Galenstock', 87 58Devies, L.: his book (with others):

Le Massif des Ecrins Vol I, 75313obit. & port., 86 264

Devil's Paw:1st asc. of S couloir, 83242

Devil's Thumb: 3rd asc., 77251Devonshire, Georgiana Duchess of:

89141Dewison, A.J.: death, 79255,279

obit. 80301Dhampus Pass: ascs. above, 79 194Dharmsura (White Sail):

3rd asc., 76 225Dhaulagiri: book on American

expeditions of 1964 & 1973,82262

DI: American attempt, 75 1972nd asc., 76 2283rd asc., 79 255Spanish asc., 85 190Yugoslavian, 1st asc. by S face,88182

DII: 1st asc., 77 168DIll: 1st & 2nd ascs., 79255;

80198DIV: Austrian attempt, 75 196

Japanese attempts, 76228;78241Austrian & British attempts,79 255 1st & 2nd ascs. byJapanese, 81 241

DV: Japanese attempts, 77 248Japanese asc., 81 242

DVI: 1st & 2nd ascs. by Japanese,76 228; Japanese asc., 78 241

Dibibokri Pyramid: 1st asc., 85 117Dickinson, L.:

'Filming on the Nordwand', 77 144films: Everest Unmasked - the first

ascent without oxygen, 85255Sailing above the Alps, 85 256Eiger, 89 257

his book: Filming the Impossible,88233

Dickson, B.T.: obit. 82271Diemberger, K.: 'Under the Spell of

K2 and Gasherbrum', 89 16'A Sortie on Broad Peak', 90 54

Diemberger, K.:his books; Tra Zero e Ottomila,

76311Summits and Secrets, 77 276

Dilworth, Kate: 'CordilleraCarabaya Expedition 1971',77211

Dingle, G.:his books:Wall of Shadows, 84259(with Peter Hillary) First across

the Roof of the World, 89240Dir Gol Zorn: asc., 75 166; 79 201

Little, 1st asc., 75 166Disgrazia, Mte delia: 1st British

asc. by N face direct, 76 105, 201Distaghil Sar:

1st asc. listed, 89 185Djurdjura Mts: ascs. in, 77 243Doake, e.S.M.:

'Ice on the Move', 82 65Dodds, D.A.: his book: A Cradle of

Rivers - the Natal Drakensberg,82262

Dogs: use in search & rescue, 74309attitude towards, 81 258

Doldenhorn: by N face, 74 176asc., 79203

Dole, H.W.: death, 79270Dolent, Col: 1st asc. in 1878, 83 217Dolomites: paintings of, 74 148

notes, 74 179; 77 242; 78 233Italian edition of 1864 British

travel book, 88 245guide books to: Via Ferrata

88 248; Brenta Dolomites88249

Dome de Rochefort: 1st asc., 86218Donaldson, J.e.: his book:

Munro's Tables, 80291Donkin, W.: death, 75285Douglas, T.: his place in Canadian

mountaineering, 78 1Drakensberg: description & climbing

history, art. 78 27; 87 110notes, 87 219

Drasdo, H.:'Margins of Safety', 74 159

Dravers, M.: 'The Opening ofLadakh - five years on', 85 129

Dreyfus, P.: his book:Sylvain Saudan, 76 303

Droites, Les:winter attempt by N face, 78 8

Droyer, J.e.: 'Free climbing - someideas for a more rigorous

conception', 83 144

GENERAL INDEX 19Dru, Aig. du:

Dru Petit: by Bonatti pillar,74175

2nd solo (British) asc. of Bonattipillar, 75 140

by SW pillar, 76 1941st solo asc. by N face, 76 194Dru Grand: S pillar, 2nd British

asc. by Bastien-Contamineroute, 75 140

1st asc. in 1878, 83 217Drummond, P.:

'Bolivia's Royal Range', 90 172Du Toits Peak: N by NW route on,

7794Duff, D.: obit. 75341Duff, M.: 'Riders of the Storm - The

West Ridge of Thamserku',8947

'The Second Ascent of theMustagh Tower', 90 74

'A Dangerous Day', 91 76'The Other Side of the Mera',

9289Duffield, D.B.:

'A Grand High Level Route',8741

Dunagiri: new route, 81 241asc. by SE spur, 82 23, ill. 82 211st asc. of N face, 83 238

Dunn, B.J.:'Mountaineering ropes', 84 43

Dunsheath, Joyce: obit. 84266Duphao Jot: 1st asc., 75 40

2nd asc., 7925,27Durand, Col de Fenetre du: crossed,

7490Dutton, G.J.F.: his book:The Ridiculous Mountains, 90277

Dyhrenfurth, Dr G.O.: obit. 81268

EALES, C.M.D.: obit. 89258Earle, J.:

'Tierra del Fuego 1979', 85 141his book: The Springs ofEnchantment, 86253

Earthquakes: notes, 80 279-80East Africa: new climbs, 82 235Eastern Cape: events & trends

1974-76, 82 230Eastwood, F.: (with R. Crossley)

'Climbing in Malawi', 85 69Ebnefluh: NW face, 1st British asc.

by Aschenbrenner-Mariner route,75143

Echevarria, E.: 'Triennial Report1971-3The Andes', 79228

'The Central Cordillera ofColombia', 82 49

'Events and Trends 1974-6TheAndes', 82219

'The Cordillera Blanca of Peru asa national park', 85 200

'Legends of the High Andes',8885

'South America 1982', 88 208'South America 1983', 89 224'South America 1984', 90 237'South America 1985', 91 218'Early British Ascents in the

Andes', 92 61'South America 1986', 92 226

Ecuador:triennial report 1971-3, 79229events & trends 1974-6, 82 220

Edmundson, D.: obit. & port.,85260

Education: and mountains, art.86201

Edwards, H.:his book: (with 1. Spring) 100Hikes in the Alps, 85252

Egeler, Prof Dr C.G.: obit. 89273Eiger: an asc. in 1883, 86 116

attempt in 1st Alpine season,8732

Eiger, North Wall: events leading to1st asc., art. 7447, ill. 74 52

accident on, 74 67new routes on, 74 177, 75 1433rd British asc., 75 143various ascs., 76 196-8; 90 140-4attempt by Lauper route, 77 143filming on, 77 144winter asc., art. 81 48film: Eiger Sanction reviewed,

81267review of TV film of 1st solo

British asc., 89 257ref. to in art. 92 165

Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld:problem of asc., 75 2391st asc., 76 250

El Gran Trono Blanco: 82 102Elbruz: comments on 1st asc. in

1829, 78265summit reached, 86 129

Elbsandsteingebirge:climbing in, 83 140

Elburz Mts: expedition to, 75 157


Electrical phenomena: recentdevelopments, 82253; 83 250

Elephant Island: Joint Servicesexpedition to, 76251; 77204

map 77 207Ellesmere Island:

expedition to, 79 174Elliott, Sir c.A.:

obit. 79 280; 80 295Elliott, F.:

'Climbing in Namibia', 84 113Ellis, c.:

'Gliding and Mountains', 79 91Ellis, D.: 'Triennial report 1970-2

British Isles', 78 220obit. 82271

Ellsworth Mts: 89 97Elwood, H.:

'The Taurus Mountains', 76 119Enderlin, F.: guide, 90201English Lake District:

climbing in, art. 82 42Equipment and Technique: notes:

74315 8125275 272 82 148, 24776274 8324877265 84 24478255 8523579265 8623780277

Erebus, Mt: asc., 74239Erosion in mountains: art. 83 198Eryl Pardoe Memorial Hut:

note on, 78249Escudier, J.: his book:

L'Aneto et les Hommes, 84261Estcourt, N.: obit. 84 267Ethiopia: note, 74 182

Polish expedition to, 75 149Etna, Mt:

1971 eruption of, 77 66; 78 137;map, 78 138

1979 eruption of, 85 238Etrier: early application of the

principle, 76 278Europe: new guide books, 80258-9

climbers' playgrounds, art.84 139-144

see also Area Notes in AlpineJournals

Evans, c.: as President of AlpineClub, Valedictory address, 767

Evans, H.:his book: (with others) We learned

to ski, 81 263

Evans, R.B.: his book: Scrambles inthe Lake District, 88 248

Everest, Mt:and personalities (study on 1963

American expedition), art.74101

Japanese ascs. & attempts, 75 199;76231; 79255; 86226; 87223

preparations for 1921 expedition,art. 7643

international expedition 1971, art.779

reporter's view of, art. 77 116attempt by SW face, 78 242Mallory & Irvine's last climb,

comment, 78 266Italian asc., 79 255height of, 80 285British SW face expedition 1975,

art. 81 3Jackdaw publication: The ascent of

Mt Everest, 81 266Ski-ing down Mt Everest - a

television film, 81 267accident to French expedition,

8230British-Nepalese army expedition,

1976 asc., 82 239American Bicentennial expedition,

asc., 82239native name of, 82 258protection from large expeditions,

comment, 82 258stamps, covers & cachets, art.

84 53twenty-fifth anniversary of 1st asc.,

84250Yugoslavian asc. by W ridge,

85223German asc. by S Col, 85 2231st winter asc. by Polish

expedition, 86 225; art. 89 50solo ascs., 86 226book: The Unclimbed Ridge,

89237book on Chinese asc., 89 249book on geology, flora etc. 89250N face - a doctor's view, art.

90 110book on Russian expedition 1982,

90 262Russian asc. by W ridge 1984, art.

90113Seligmann Harris expedition to

NE ridge, 92 92

21GENERAL INDEX

Faur, Freda du: her book:The Conquest of Mt Cook andother climbs, 84 262

Faux, R.: 'Everest NE Ridge - TheSeligmann Harris Expedition',9292

his books: High Ambition, a biog.of R. Messner, 88 245

Everest - Goddess of the Wind,86257

(with J. Fleming) Soldiers onEverest, 83 260

Fawcett, R.:extreme rockclimber, 83227-31

Fedden, H.R.R.:'Pindos range: Timfi massif', 78 25'Peru: Cordillera Vileabamba

1971',7883obit. 83268

Ferber, Peggy: her book (editor):Mountaineering - the Freedomof the Hills, 86 260

Ferenski, J.: (with K. Glasek)'Victory and Tragedy on Broad

Peak', 82 129Ferro, Pizzi del:

by N faces of pillars, 75 143Fex-Scerscen, Fuorcla:

crossed, 78 139Fiala, I.:

his book: Makalu 1976, 84263Fiction: in mountaineering

literature, art. 85 121Field, E.S.: death, 75285Fiero, Cerro: asc., 75225Films:Matterhorn, North Face, 82265Morte d'un Guide, 82 265

Finch, G.I.: death, 76291obit. & port., 77287; 78283

Finlaison, J.: early Alpinist, 8713Finsteraarhorn: winter asc., 89 129Finzi, N.S.: obit., note on, 74392Fiorentina, Sezione (C.A.I.):

centenary book, 75 313Firn und Eis der Schweizer Alpen:

book on Swiss glaciers, 82 263First Ascents of the Fifty Highest

Mountains: listed, 89 184-6Fischesser, B.: his book:La Vie de la Montagne, 89246

Fisher, J.: death, 77272Fishwick, c.: his paintings of the

Dolomites, 74 148

Everest, Mt:books: Everest the UnclimbedRidge, 92 262

The Everest Years: A Climber'sLife, 92266

Everest Grand Circle, 92267The Windhorse, 92273climbing guidebook, 92 277

Everest, Mt, Foundation: notes:1980-81, 87238-441981-82, 88212-161982-83, 89 188-901983-84, 90 247-501984-85, 91 227-301985-86, 92 238-43General guidelines & notes for

expeditions, 89 200-6Expedition medicine: planning guide,

90274Expeditions: small, art. 82 21

small, proceedings of seminar onplanning, 88 246

Advisory Centre, 88 286Lightweight, book, 90 275

F., K.C.: 'Climbers', 7796Fabrics:

for mountain clothing, 86 140Fafler Alp: 50 years ago, 86 190Fairley, J.:

Editor of Alpine Journal, 87237editorials: 'To a Louse', 899'Blanks on the Map', 909

Fairweather, Mt: 3rd asc., 74241Falak Sar: 3rd asc., 74 193

from N, 76 218Falling, Technique of: art. 83 48Fanshawe, A.: 'Walking Conway's

Great White Roof' - the firsttraverse of Chogolisa, 9274

Fantin, M.: his books:Montagne Di Groenlandia, 75 302Alpinismo 1taliano nel Mondo,

79248Himalaja e Karakorum, 85 250Le Ande, 86 255obit. 86262

Farr, M.: his book:The Darkness Beckons, 86 255

Farrar, J.P.:Editor of Alpine Journal, 80120-7

Fatti, P.:'The E ridge of San Lorenzo',

9248


Fitzgerald, K.: 'The other side of thehill', 81 175

intro. to 'In Memoriam', 82 265'Mr Sherlock Holmes as rock-

climber and all-roundmountaineer', 83 99

'Mountains in the Strand', 84 144'Whatever happened to

mountaineering', 86 35Fitzroy: 3rd asc. and 1st by SW

buttress, 74 131, 274attempts, 75 234; 79 259E pillar, ill. 84 116

Fleming, J.: 'The ArmyMountaineering AssociationHimachal Pradesh Expedition1973', 7921

'Nuptse 1975', 81 107his book: (with R. Faux) Soldiers

on Everest, 83 260Fleming, R. & L.: their book:

Kathmandu Valley, 85252Fletschhorn: 1st British asc. by N

face, 76 199asc., 7968

Flower, R.: his book: The Story ofSki-ing & other winter sports,

83261Fluchthorn: ski asc., 75 128Fontainebleau: climbing area, 85 208Fontanet, J.e.: his book:

La Montagne, 76310Foot, A.E.: obit. 74395Fora, Piz: asc., 78 139Foraker, Mt: 4th asc., 74240

central spur, 1st asc. of S face,83241

Forbes, Mt: 1st winter asc., 77 251Fordham, D.: 'Triennial Report 1973-5

Greenland', 81 206'To the Place of Graves', 89 108'Greenland 1983', 89 222(with R. Hoare) 'Failure on

Forel', 90 161'Arctic 1984-5', 91 213

Forster, R.P.: obit. 79281Foster, J.: 'An 18th century Swiss

Journey', 86 57Fourche, La: story, 90 127Fowler, M.:

'Games in a private world', 87 67Fowler, Mick: 'Bojohagar', 9077Fraenkel, P.: his book:

Overland, 82261

France: climbing rocks in NW,78117

rock-climbing in, 8775-8, 135-7guides to non-mountain climbing

sites, 88 242, 245Franco, J.A.: death, 77272

obit. 78281Franconian Jura: climbing in, 83 139Franczuk, J.: death, 7724Frank, D.: his book:

Traumland Nepal, 82264Fraser, e.: his books:

L'Enigma Delle Valanghe, 76311A valanche and Snow Safety,

84260Fraser, S.: 'A Himalayan Pass in

winter - Tashi Lapcha La',8696

'The exploration of the AntarcticPeninsula', 8997

'Puna de Atacama, Chile', 90 177'Mountains of the Snow Leopard',

9165Frass, H.: his book: Dolomites -

Mountains of Magic, 83264Frattero Zorn (Pechus Glacier):

1st asc., 74 217Frazier, e.:

his book: (with D. Secreast)Adventuring in the Andes,91252

Free-climbing:ethics of, art. 83 144

Freeman, G.: 'Ski-mountaineering inthe Eastern Alps', 85 176

French Alpine Club: centenary,79271

Freshfield, D.W.:Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 168

Frey, W.: his book: ZwischenMunjan und Bashgal Pt./I,74380

'Climbing in the Swabian Alps inSW Germany', 80 211

Friends: rock climbing device, 85 235Friga, Mt: 1st asc. of W face, 83 246

ill. 83 244-5Frostbite:

treatment of, 74 347; 76 70information on, 87 234

Friindenhorn :note re NW ridge, 75 142asc., 79203

Fiihrerbiicher:in the Alpine Club Library, 76 287

GENERAL INDEX 23Fujii, M.:

'Kanjut Sar West Face', 88 179Fuorikante: struck by lightning in

the Badile, 90 145Furchetta: by N face (Solleder-

Wiessner route), 76202Furka Tunnel: opened, 87 235Furse, C.: his book:Elephant Island, 87 255

Fyffe, A.:'From Zero to Astronomy', 80 185his book: (with A. Nisbet)Climbers Guide to theCairngorms, 91 260

GAETA (Italy):sea cliff climbing, 84 139

Gaetani, L.: 'Expedition to theMillpo Group (Peru)', 81 63

Gajewski, J.W.: 'Poland', 90245Galenstock:

1st asc. (1884), art. 8758Gallas, F.E.: his book:Land Search and Rescue, 89 252

Ganesh II: climbed, 9073Ganga Puma:

by Sanctuary W ridge, 77249Gangchentak, Bhutan: ill. 83 189Gangotri:

asc. of Pt. 19,690ft., 742282nd & 3rd ascs. of Gangotri III,

75 1941st asc. of un-named peak, 75 195views on, art. with photos, 91 57

Gaping Gill: 80 110-8Garagai: natural rock tunnel in

Provence, 80 192Garhwal: notes & new climbs:

74228 8323878240 8422982238 85222

climbing in, art. 82 168travels in (art. 'In the steps of

Shipton'), 84 154expedition to, art. 90 100Alpine Club meet 1986, 9285see also Special Districts p. 72.

Garmo Peak: recovery of note leftin 1962, 75 162

Garobbio, A.:his book (editor): Il Grande Librodelle Montagne, 82261

Garrod, Marjorie: obit. 87262Gasherbrum I:

SW ridge, 1st asc., 83 237

Gasherbrum II: summit reached byChilean expedition 1979,85153,231

art. 89 16Gasherbrum III: Scottish expedition

to, 1985, art. with photos, 91 41Gasherbrum V: 1st asc. by Japanese

expedition 1978, 85 222Gasherbrum Group:

1st ascs. listed, 89 184-5Gasparini, L.: (with F. Della Beffa)

'Grigna', 83 106Gattlen, A.:

his book: (with others) DasMatterhorn im Bild, 85 253

Gaulis, L.:his book: (with R. Creux) Swisshotel pioneers, 84 259

Gaurishankar: 1st asc. of mainsummit, 85 223; 86 39

1st asc. of S summit, 86 46Gavamie, Cirque de:

climbing in, art. 81 55ski-ing, 86 76

Geddes, M.G.: obit. 91286Gele de Durand, Mt: by N face,

74176Geniskaya:

by new route on N face, 7839Geology: new findings in, 8043;

83251Geophysical terms: glossary of, 80 62George, H.B.:

Editor of Alpine Journal, 79166-7George, D.: his book: In the Desertsof this Earth, 85 255

Geothermal energy: 84 248Gerlachovsky (Tatra): asc., 74 98Ghochkar Sar: 2nd asc., 74 216Ghul Lasht Zorn:

asc. of Speak, 78 183E peak by S ridge, 78 183

Ghustung North: 4th asc., 75 22Gibson, J.: 'An introduction to

Mountains',91179Gifford, N.: his book: Expeditions& Exploration, 89240

Gigantopithecus: 80 104Gilbert, L.:

'Peter Botte's Mountain', 78 161'Before Everest', 81 74

Gilbert, R.:'Schoolboys on Kolahoi', 83 174his books: Memorable Munros,

83 263; 89 252

24 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Gilbert, R.:

Young Explorers, 86 258Mountaineering for All, 88 250(with K. Wilson) compilers of

book: Classic Walks, 88234Gilgit: a summer in, art. with map,

82158; 8364problems with porters, 82 162-4

Gill, M.: his book:Mountain Midsummer, 75 304

Gillette, N.:his book: (with J. Reynolds)

Everest Grand Circle, 92269Gillman, P.: his book:

Fitness on Foot, 85 254Gizycki, P. von: 'The Munich

Karakoram expedition 1970',76186

(with K. Schreckenback)'Dhaulagiri III', 80 198

Glaciers:advance & retreat of Alpine, 7975study of Cordilleran, 79 272movement of, art. 82 65an early view of, 86 65-8variations & volcanic eruptions,

87228see also Science Notes

Glasek, K.: (with J. Ferenski)'Victory & Tragedy on Broad

Peak', 82 129Gleckstein hut: 86 118-9'Gliding and mountains': art. 7991Glockner Gross: 1st & 2nd ski

descents of Pallavicini Couloir,74349; 7532

winter asc. in 1875, 80231history of & ascs., art. with

photos, 82 189Gluschaint, Piz: an octogenarian asc.

of, art. 83 178Gobbi, T.: death, 75285

obit. & port., 76 226Golash Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216Geill: 1st ski descent of whole of E

face, 75 33Goodfellow, B.R.:

obit. & port. 78 285art. on with photos, 82 199

Goodwin, B.: his book:Life among the Pathans, 85 253

Goodwin, Col. E.R.: hisreminiscences available, 75 186

Gore, J.: 'A Calling', 9243Gore-Tex: assessment of, 84245

Gouter hut: best route to, 76 192Graham, Bob, round: Lake District

fell running record, 81 41Gran Paradiso: history, 82 133-5

asc. & traverse, 82 137-8Grand Canyon: 87 122-6Grant, Lt.Col. R.H.: obit. 87263Gray, D.: poems, 7435, 123; 75282;

9086; 92 84'The Himalayan Ethic', 76 156'The future of British climbing in

the 1970's', 78 89'Some psychological aspects of

advanced rock climbing', 82 88'Climbing and competition', 83112'Competition Climbing', 91 198his book: Rope Boy, 76299

Greece:guidebook to mountains, 88 244climbing in, art. 92 136guidebook notes, 92 250

Green, W.S.: his book:High Alps of New Zealand, 82 264

Greene, R.: his book:Moments of Being, 80290obit. 88280

Greenland: notes & climbs:74276 7926075237 8027176249 8922277254

asc. of Majorteqe, 80203Triennial Report 1973-5, 81206climbing in, art. 89 104climing in E, art. 90 161expedition to Milne Island, art.

92189M.E.F. notes, 92 238

Greenwood, A.: 'RoundAnnapurna - the ClimbingParty', 87 193

'AC Garhwal Meet, Sept-Oct1986', 9285

Greenwood, B.:'Calgary Climber', 75 101

Greenwood, H.D.: obit. 86263Greig, A.: his books: Summit Fever

and Kingdoms of Experience -Everest the Unclimbed Ridge,92262

Greig, J.: 'Silvanus Thompson -Alpine painter', 81 116

Greitbauer, K.: his book: Das Ganzeder Alpinen Idee, 81 266

Grepon, Aig. de:1st asc. in 1881, 86214

GENERAL INDEX 25Grey-Wilson, c.: 'A Botanical

Expedition to the WakhanCorridor', 8897

Griffin, A.H.: his book:Adventuring in Lakeland, 89 246

Griffin, L.: 'Wakhan 1977', 84 36'Events and trends in the Alps',

84 211; 88 185'The High Atlas', 88 206'Alpine Guidebook Notes', 88217'The Traverse of Kangde Shar',

8940'Twenty four hours in Trevelez',

89116'Alpine Guidebook Notes', 89230(with J. Brailsford) 'Ten Dauphine

Ice Climbs', 87 180'The Sosbun Glacier Region',

9149'The Sierra Nevada de Merida',

9220compiler: 'Guidebook Notes',

91231; 92 244Griffiths, B.W.J.: 'Epicures on the

Lauper route', 77 139Griffon, P.: his book: RandonneesPedestres dans Ie Luberon, 90 263

Grigna: description of, 76 169art. on Italian climbing, 83 106

Grindley, E.: his book: WinterClimbs - Ben Nevis and Glencoe,

87257Grivola: asc. of N ridge, 81 198

decapitated, 86 245Grossen, H.: his book:L'Oberland Bernois, 89250

Grosshorn: 1st British asc. by Nface direct, 76 198

Grossman, R.: obit. 81269Groughs: description of, 80 72Guardian, El: asc.;78 81Guha, Mrs S.: death, 76224Guichon, Francoise: her book:Montagne Photographs 1845-1914,90 278

Guide Books:a publisher's comments, 74347comment about Italian

guidebooks, 76 203review of, 92 275see list on pp. 75-81

Guides Books (Fiihrerbiicher):in archives of Alpine Club, 7876-7

Gumachi: summit reached, 86 130Gumbaz-e-Safed: by NW face,

75172

Gunnbjorns Fjeld: 2nd asc., 77 255Gurja Himal: 1st asc., 75 17, 196

2nd asc., 78 242Gurkha Parbat: 1st asc., 7925,27Gurung, H.: his books:Annapurna to Dhaulagiri, 75310Vignettes of Nepal, 86254

Gwynne, H.A.: 'Mountaineering inWinter; some expeditions in the

Lake District', 84 177Gyatso, S.: death, 74395

HABELER, P.: his book: Everest-Impossible Victory, 85 250

Hagen, T.: his book: Report on theGeological Survey of Nepal,

75300Haggsta: climbs on, 77 187Hagshu Kishtwar Himalayan

Expedition 1983: 89 189Haig, I.:

'A Journey through Zanskar',88139

'A Winter Journey through EastNepal', 91 103

obit. 92306Hall, B.: 'British 1980 Expedition to

Baltoro Kangri', 86 198'Nepal 1983', 89 197'Nepal 1984', 90 216'Nepal 1985', 91 203'Nepal 1986', 92203

Hall, D.O.W.: death, 78264,281Hall, V.: his book: A Scrapbook ofSnowdonia, 88 238

Hankinson, A.:'The Keswick brothers', 7955his books: Camera on the Crags,

81230The Mountain Men. An earlyhistory of rock climbing inNorth Wales, 83264

Hannibal: comment on his route inthe Alps, 82 257

Hannigan, c.:'Winter on Annapurna IV', 88 177

Hanuman Tibba: ascs., 75 193;76225

Hanwell, J.D.: 'Eighty years ofBritish caving', 80 111

Hara, M.: (with M. Asami)'Makalu - the first ascent by theSE ridge', 76 35

Haramukh: asc., 75 186Haranboi Zorn: 1st asc., 74 187


Harber, M.; 'The South West Ridgeof Huascaran Sur', 88 157

obit. 91 285; 92 281Harding, J.G.R.: 'Antipodean

Ventures I. Western Australia',7928

'Antipodean Ventures II. TheSnowy Mountains', 81 100

'Antipodean Ventures III. MtCook', 82 55

'Mountains of Paradise', 82 133'Cirques and Caftons of the

Pyrenees', 86 71his book: (editor with others)

Avalanche, 87 258'Olympian Triad', 92 236

Hardy, L.; 'The British-Indian PoliceHimalayan Expedition 1986', 92 79

Harford, D.: 'Oberland Climbs inthe 1880's', 86 115

Hargreaves, A.J.:'Women on the Rocks', 88 128'Small Faces, Big Dreams', 89 126

Harper, A.; his book; WalkingGuide to the Tour of MontBlanc, 85253

Harper, F.: 'First ascent of AliRatni Tibba 1969', 75 9

Harries, J.: 'Optical phenomena forMountaineers', 77 39

Harris, S.L.; his book;'Fire and Ice- The Cascade Volcanoes, 87250

Harriss, Barbara:'The Theodulpass: a history', 75 87'The Monte Moro Pass and the

Col d'Herens', 76 127'Travel and Trade in the Pennine

Alps', 77 175Hart, J.L.J.: obit. 92314Hart-Davis, D.: his novel: The

Heights of Rimring, 87 258Hartley, H.K.: obit. & port., 92311Hartley, N.: his book:

The Viking Process, 83 262Hartog, J.M.: obit. 92301Harvard, A.:

his book: (with T. Thompson)Mountains of Storms, 82262

Haskett Smith, W.P.:'The Napes Pinnacle', 81 53'Cragwork in Cumberland', 82 42

Hasse, D.: 'Climbing in the Elbsand-steingebirge (East Germany)',

83140

Hastenrath, S.: his book:The Glaciers of Equatorial East

Africa, 91 254Haston, D.: his books: In High

Places, 78 272The Eiger, 81 264novel: Calculated Risk, 85257(with D. Scott) 'South Face of Mt

McKinley 1976', 82 173a tribute, 83 132

Hauck, W.: death, 79256Hauser, G.: his book: (withM. Klotz)

Die Hiitten des DeutschenAlpenvereins, 75316

Haute Route: on ski, art. 87 20Hauteroche: crag near Paris, 86 157Hawksley, J.C.:

'Guide book on the shelf', 77 160'A note on the mountains of

Sinai', 80145Hayden, D.E.: his book:

Wordsworth's Walking Tour of1790,90264

Hayes, Mt:1st asc. of SW face, 83242

Hazard, J. de V.: death, 74350Heath, C.M.: 'The Colombian

Andes - Nevado del Huila -Pico la Cresta', 88 161

Heckmair, A.: 'Main German &Austrian Climbs since 1930',7447

his books: My Life as aMountaineer, 80289

Bergsteigen fiir Anfanger undFortgeschrittene, 82262

Hederatus: his book:Cambridge Night-climbing, 76308

Helburn, Margaret:obit. & port., 86 265

Heller, M.:his book (editor): The Illustrated

Encyclopaedia of Ice Skating,85255

Helmets: British Standard forclimbers, 74 319

difficulty of hearing with aclimbing, 75 274

Hemming, G.: obit. & port., 75342Hensler's Passage: major

breakthrough in caving, 80 115Heppenstall, A.; 'Outcrop climbing

from Rome', 77 188'In Terra de Romagne', 78 121

GENERAL INDEX 27

Hepper, c.: 'Stamps,-covers andcachets from Mount Everest',8453

'Stamps, covers and cachets fromMount Everest Part II', 85 110

Hepplewhite, W.: obit. 78289Herbert, H.R.: obit. 88258Herbert, W.E.: obit. 82266Herens, Col d': history, 76 130Hetman, K.: 'Sandstone rocks in

Czechoslovakia', 78 116Herrligkoffer, Prof. Dr.: 'The East

Pillar of Nanga Parbat', 89 21Hervis Peak: 1st asc., 79 17Hewitt, N.: 'The first ascent of

Dibibokri Pyramid, Kulu 1978',85115

Hex River Mtns: ascs. in, 75 74Hidden Valley, the:

expedition to, 79 189Hielo Patagonico del Norte:

first N-S crossing, 79 143High altitude:

a study of the effects of, 83 158High-level route:

variation on, 76 200Higuchi, H.: 'The first ascent of

Yalung Kang', 8017Hillary, E.: his books: Nothing

Venture, Nothing Win, 84 262From the Ocean to the Sky, 85 252(with P. Hillary) Two Generations'

90276Hillary, P.: his books: A Sunny Day

in the Himalayas, 88247(with G. Dingle) First across theRoof of the World, 89240

Hillman, P.:'La Grande Dixence', 81 78'Big Science in the Pyrenees',

84201'The Colorado Plateau', 87 121

Hilton-Jones, B.: obit. 76 329Himachal Pradesh: Indo-Japanese

Ladies expedition 1968, 74 226AMA expedition to, 1973, 79 21summary of ascs. by AMA, 79 26

Himal Chuli: ascs. of NE Peak,76229

1st asc. listed, 89 185Himalaya: seen from Apollo 7, 75 65

rules governing expeditions,74230-3; 75 199

definition of peak for records,75280

Himalaya:the expedition ethic, 76 156winds of change in, art. 78 57new climbs in Indian, 80264and power politics, 80 285-6small expeditions in, art. 84 166winter climbing in, 89 207Indian, historic appraisal, art. with

photos, 89 208index gazetteer of place names,

mountains etc., 90 274area notes, Nepal 1985, 91203M.E.F. notes: 88 213; 89 189;

90 247; 91 228; 92 240Alpine Club Garhwal meet 1986,9285see also Special Districts pp. 69-74

Himalayan Club:golden jubilee, 83255

Hinchliff Memorial: 84253Hindu Kush:

notes, new climbs & expeditions:74 195 8026375165 8123976210 8223777 245 83 236-778238 8422479254 85221

maps, 74 196; 77 170British expedition to Central,

1971, 77 170youth in the, 78266winter in the, 79 11Alpine style, 79 111Spanish expedition, 79 199Shkawr and Koh e Nadir Si'ih,

traverse of & new route,82211;

ill. 82 210, 212Anglo-Polish expedition, 84 137

Hindu Raj: ascs. in, 76218climbs in the Thui range, 82 115;ill. 82 117

Hinings, R.:'South African Days', 87 109

Hiunchuli: 1st asc., 77 249Hjortsberg, W.: his book:Alp, 80292

Hoare, R.D.: 'Majorteqe (PeakBOOm) 1974', 80203

'Karakoram inflation', 83208Hoare, Rick:

'Blubber and Boats', 89 104Hoare, Rupert: (with D. Fordham)

'Failure on Forel', 90 161


Hobbs, P.V.: his book:Ice Physics, 82261

Hockenhull, H.K.: obit. 86266Hodgkin, R.A: poem, 75 70

his book: Reconnaissance on anEducational Frontier, 76310

'Mountains and Education', 86 201Hoeman, G.: death, 77 297Hoeman, J.V.: obit. 75332Hogan, J.M.: his book: Impelled

into Experiences: the Story ofthe Outward Bound Schools,74372

Hoggar: new routes in, 76 207;87216

correction re Garet-el-Djenoun,77 243

descriptive art. 79 103; 83 43notes, 79227

Holland, G.S.: Map of Mt EverestRegion (Scale 1:100,000),82261

Holloway, J.T.: obit. 83269Hopkins, D.: 'Kusum Kanguru, a

Lightweight Expedition', 90 105Hopkirk, P.: his book: Trespassers

on the Roof of the World, 89248Hornbein, T.F.: his book:

Everest - the West Ridge, 86 256Horniblow, P.J.:

'In the steps of Shipton', 84 154Houston, C.S.: 'Long-lasting effects

of high altitude climbing. Factor fancy?', 83 158

his books: (with R.Bates) K2 - theSavage Mountain, 85 252

Going High (the story of man &altitude), 87 252

(editor) High Altitude PhysiologyStudy - Collected Papers, 87 255

Going Higher, 90 266Houston, 0.: death, 75 344Howard, T.: his book: Walks and

Climbs in Romsdal Norway,76315

'The Mountains of Wadi Rum',91109

Howell, I.:'Return to the Alps', 76 105'After Everest: de-acclimatisation

climbs in East Africa', 77 80Howick of Glendale, Lord:

obit. 79281Howser, North: by SW face, 76240Hoyle, F.:

'On men and mountains', 74 23his book: Ice, 88 245

Huagaruncho:2nd asc. & traverse, 76 243

Huallanca, Cordillera:expedition, 74 253

Huandoy: asc., 82 167Huandoy Sor:

attempts by S face, 74250; 79 139ill. 74251; 79 1401st asc. by S face, 83243

Huascanln:1st asc. by W arete, 75 131by E face direttissima, 79 39by SW ridge, 88 160

Huayhuash, Cordillera:ascs. by NZ expedition, 74 255

Huber, F.: 'Dhaulagiri 2',77 168Hudson, J.: death, 75 343Huila, Nevado del: attempt, 75 210

asc., 76241height questioned, 82 51

Humble, B.H.: his book:The Cuillins of Skye, 92267

Hunt, AS.:'Climb High Down Under', 91 133

Hunt, J.:'Mountaineering and Risk', 86 3'Round Annapurna - HamishNicol's Group', 87 195'Protection of the Himalayan

Environment' - a paper read tothe U.I.A.A Commission,8857

(with D. Gray) 'The 50thAnniversary Celebration of theUnion Internationale desAssociations d'Alpinisme',8855

his books: Life is Meeting, 85247My favourite Mountaineering

Stories, 85 252Hunter, Mt: attempt, 74244

1st asc. of N face, 83241Hunter, R.: his book:

Walking in France, 88242Huntford, R.: his book:

Scott and Amundsen, 86256Hunza:

problems for travellers, 82 158Husbands, A.:

'Pico Ruivo Interlude', 92 163Hut statistics:

from Switzerland, 83 256

ICE AGES:in the British Isles. 86240

GENERAL INDEX 29Ice-axes: weakness of wooden shafts,

74332-8newall-metal, 76 274failures, 85 237

Ice-climbing: new techniques &equipment, 77 75

in N America, history of, 88246guide to waterfall ice climbs in

Canadian Rockies, 88244Iceland: volcanic activity, 85239

ski-touring, 86 121snow & ice climbing, 86 123M.E.F. note, 92 239

Ice-pitons:date of first use, 74 324; 75 31

Ikerasagssuag Fjord:climbing opportunities, 89 106

Illampu: 1st asc. by S ridge, 75 222by E face, accident, 78 204

Illimani: 1st asc.by N ridge, 75222Illingworth, R.N.: his book:Expedition Medicine, 90274

Inada, S.:'A month on Trisul', 85 193

Indar Kila: 1st asc., 75 193India: an historic appraisal of the

Indian Himalaya, 89 208ill. 89 between 208 & 209Triennial report 1972-74, 80 239mountaineering in:1983-84, 90 2261985,912061986, 92208

Indo-Tibet Border Police: 80239-41Indonesia: mountaineering in, 81 35;

map, 81 36, 37Indrasan: 2nd asc., 1st by W ridge,

art. 77343rd asc., 2nd by W ridge, 7738Japanese asc., 782401st& 2nd ascs. by E ridge, 79 21, 27

Infanti, de, S.: his book:Daile Ferrate al 6° Grado, 84263

Ingolfsfjeld: 1st asc., 77 255attempt by S face, 79260asc. of SW outlier of, 79 260

International Directory of Mountain-eering Clubs and Organizations:

85253Intervisibility:

explanation of, 77 172extreme examples of, 79275;

80284-5Iran: 4000 metre peaks in Southern,

art. 84 187women's lib in reverse, 87 233

Ireland: notes, 74 304; 80275mountaineering in, art. 85 162guidebook to rock-climbing in,

91262Irghil M'Goun, Morocco:

mountaineering on, art. 843Irvine, A.c.:

his diaries published, 85 249Irving, F.G.: 'Memories of Arolla

and Fafleralp', 86 188Irving, R.L.G.: obit. & port., 75333Ishak, H.: 'Mountaineering in

Indonesia', 81 35Isherwood, R.J.: 'Direttissima on the

Piz Badile', 74 1'The Dugundugoo', 78 188'Lamjung Himal', 80 37'Kanjiroba', 83 37'Buni Zorn', 85 147

Ishinca, Nevado: asc., 7441Ishmurg Valley:

expedition to, 75 177Ishpel Dome (Pechus glacier):asc., 74217

Istor-o-Nal:2nd & 1st women's asc., 74 1961st ascs., 75 166amendment of earlier reports,

75168by new direct route on S face,

77245Italian climbing:

between the wars, 77 149Italy: mountaineering in central, art.

78121major mountain groups, 78 122

Ives, J.D.:his book: (editor with R.G. Barry)Arctic and AlpineEnvironments, 82262

JACKSON, J.A.:'Sherpas & Skis', 91 101'Meconopsis', 91 160

Jaeger, N.: obit. & port., 87264Jagatsukh: asc., 7922,27Jager, F.: death on Manaslu, 7920James, R.: his book:Rock climbing in Wales, 76316

Jannu: 1st asc. of N face, 82 241asc. in 1978, 85 77; ills. 85 78, 801st asc. listed, 89 185

Japan:mountaineering in, 79 128; 81 59mountains of, map, 79 130-1a social visit, 87 231

30 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Japanese Journal of Mountain

Medicine, 88 243Japanese Railway Workers Karak-

oram Expedition: 'A first ascentof Pruppoo-Brukh (c.7000m)',84118

Jardine, M.: 'An ElectrifyingExperience', 92117

Jarvis, E.C.L.: death, 78 264obit. 79282

Jatunhuma I:1st asc. of W face, 89 188

Jean Bernard Cave, Haute Savoie:deepest in world, 87 233

Jeannette, Mt: 1st asc., 74 214Jenkinson, B.: death, 79256Jeong-Tai, K.: 'Mountains &

Mountaineering in South Korea',8355

Jerome, J.: his book: On Mountains- thinking about terrain, 85 251

Jeudwine, W.R.H.: obit. 90281Jiazi: attempt, 87 117Jirishanca: 1st asc. by W face, 75 8

ill. 75 2, 5by SE wall, 79258

Jogin I: 1st & 2nd ascs., 76 225Jogin III: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 76225Johchi, University A.c., members

of: 'Patagonian Ice Cap 1971-72',79237

John, B.S.: his book: The Ice Age -past and present, 83262

Johnson, A.: 'Indrasan West ridgeExpedition 1971', 77 34

Johnson, B.:his book: (with O. Skjerren)

Lyngsalpene, 90263Jones, Barbara: 'Tharkot, an

expedition to the Garhwal', 90 100Jones, c.: 'Yerupaja, the Amazon

face: the British-Americanexpedition', 74 15

'Fitzroy 1968', 74 131'The Salathe Wall', 75 25his book: Climbing in N America,

82 260; 85 252Jones, D.: his book:

Rock Climbing in Britain, 90 272Jones, J.H. Emlyn: as President of

Alpine Club, Valedictory Address,889

Jones, M.: his book:Canoeing down Everest, 85251

Jones, O.G.: his death on DentBlanche 1899, 87 16-17

Jones, R.B.: obit. & port., 91 283Jones, T.:

his book: (with G. Milburn) WelshRock, 92257

Jorasses, Grandes:1st asc. by N wall in 1935, 74 501st solo asc. of Walker spur,

74175Pte. Croz: 1st British asc. by N

face, 75 138Pte. Helene: 1st asc. by N face,

77 61, ill. 77 62Journals: review of 1971, 77 283

South American Mountain, 86 250Jouty, S.:

'The history of altitude', 86 90Jugoslavia: guidebook to traverse of

Siovenian Mts., 88 245history of climbing in, art. with

photos, 92 182Julian Alps: visit to, & description

of, 82 95, ill. Triglav, 82 94Jumars: accident, & safety problems

with, 74307Jiingfraujoch:

Palais de Cristal on, 84252Junction Peak (Dhaula Himal):

asc., 78241Jura: description of, & climbs in,

78146Jurak, J.: 'Mountains & rocks in

Czechoslovakia', 8273'The Palava Rocks', 82 143

K2: attempt, 82 237Polish expedition to, in 1976, art.

8382nd asc., 83 237asc. by American expedition in

1978, art. 84 52British expedition abandoned

1978, 84225climbed by R. Messner, 85 221filming on N face of, 89 181st asc. listed, 89 184book review, 89 247ill. 82 129;83 10; 89 between 16& 17

K6: 1st asc., 76 149Kackar: attempt, 86 165Kaghan: expedition to, 78 185, 240Kailas Parbat: asc., 74 226Kakhari: asc., 74 188Kalanka: attempt, 81 74Kamet: 3rd asc., 79 254; 80 242

1st asc. listed, 89 185

GENERAL INDEX 31Kanai, H.: his book: IndexGazetteer of the Himalaya, 90 274

Kangbachen: attempt, 79 255climbed, 80 36geology of Massif, 8030-31; map,

80 28; ill. 80 33, 35Kangchenjunga:

1st asc. of W peak, 79 255heights of local mountains, 79 2562nd asc., 83 240Polish expedition 1978, art. 85 431st asc. of S summit, 85 481st asc. of central summit, 85 48British expedition 1979, art. 8549main summit ascended by new

route, 85 57, 224Spanish expedition 1978, art.

861771st asc. listed, 89 184ill. 85 45; 86 181

Kangchungtse (Makalu II):1st asc. listed, 89 186

Kangde Hiunchuli: 2nd asc., 78 241Kangde Shar: traverse of, art. 89 40Kanjiroba Himal:

expedition to, 75 1141st asc. of highest summit, 76 2271st asc. in, 77 2482nd asc. of highest summit, 79 2551st asc. of un-named peak, 79 255asc. of highest summit, 82240;

83 42; ill. 83 39, map, 83 38Kanjut Sar: climbed, 88 180

1st asc. listed, 89 185Kapadia, H.:

'The Eastern Karakoram', 91 33'India 1985', 91 206'India 1986', 92 208

Karabiner: its evolution in AlpineHistory, 74320

Karakol Lakes: 86 12Karakoram: notes & new climbs:

74225 8422575185 8522176219 8622477246 8724179254 8819280263 8921281239 9022282237 9120883237 92210

expedition to NW, 1970, 76 163Polish expedition 1975, 82 129British Ogre expedition 1977, 833

1st asc. of Ogre, 83 7

Karakoram:accident, 83 7heights questioned, 83 11costs of travel in, 83 208highway opened, 84252British expedition to Baltoro

Kangri 1980, art. 86 198International Project, 86 240British West Karakoram

expedition 1981, 87 132attempt on Thaime Chish, 87 133-5West of the Baltoro, art. 88 194maps, 89 76; 90 65, 66, 68ill. 90 between 64 & 65history of climbing in Eastern, art.

9133excursions & climbs from the K.

highway, art. 91 46Alpine Club meet to, 1985, art.9153M.E.F. notes, 88 216; 90 249;

91 229; 92 242Alpine Club symposium, 923171st traverse of Chogolisa, art.

9274see also Special Districts pp. 69-74

Karatash Peak: climbed, 86 16Karposhte-Yakhi: asc., 76216

ski asc. from W, 77 111Kashmir: notes & new climbs:

74225 8323875186 8422576219 8622577247 8722278240 8918982238

a walk in, art. 76 222Keay, J.: his books:When Men and Mountains Meet

and The Gilgit Game, 85254Keenlyside, F.:

'The Heart of the Matter', 78 168'To Silver Turn'd', 84 157his book: Peaks and Pioneers,

81232Keighly, J.H.: (with G. Steele) 'The

functional and design requirementsof clothing 1', 86 138

'The properties and performanceof Mountain Rescue Bags',88153

Kekus, N.:'Kalanka, Alpine Style', 88 135'Annual Leave - Ganesh II South

Face', 9071Kellas, A.: 'Rokapi 1974', 80 219

Kilimanjaro:buttress of E face, 75 150complete S-N traverse, 76 138by E face, 76 209

W-E traverse of Kibo & Mawenzi,7782

1st asc. of N icefield, 78 166Kibo: new routes on, 78236by Kersten glacier, 82 171-3glacier recession on, art. 87 54

Kimball, Mt: 5th attempt on, 74 243Kimbrey, J.: 'Joint Services

expedition to Brabant Island',91139

Kinabalu, Mt: big wall rock climbingpossibilities, 89 190

Kinder Scout:marathon walks on, 8071-82

King, J.: 'Avalanche on Ben Nevis',86146

King, T.: his book: In the Shadowof the Giants, 88250

King, W.:'New Zealand 1984-5', 91225'New Zealand 1985-6', 92 236

Kingman, H.S.: obit. 74392Kirstein, W.:

'Sixty years off-piste', 75 124'Piz Badile for the over-seventies'

7748'Once again, Engadine and

Bregaglia', 78 133'Three times lucky', 79 65'One of the geriatric eccentrics',

81 125'Piz Balzetto, Bregaglia', 82197'Too much snow on Piz

Gliischaint', 83178'Albigna Valley - 1978', 84183'Cacciabella', 85 199'Crevasse Danger', 86 183'For how much longer', 87 6obit. & port., 89 269

Kishmi Khan:1st asc. by SSW buttress, 75 174

Kishtwar: expedition to, art. withphotos & map, 75 186

British women's expedition to,1970, 76223

1971 expedition, art. with photos,77164

exploration, art. incl. two newpeaks climbed, 83 206

notes & new climbs, 85 223British expedition 1979, art. with

32 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Kelly, H. M.: obit. 86 263Kelsey, M.R.: his book: Guide to

the World's Mountains, 91254Kemp, C.: 'Triennial Report 1971-3.

Africa', 79 219'Summers in and around the Swiss

Pre-alps', 84 92Kemsley. Freda: obit. 84268Kenai Range: ascs. in, 74240Kennedy, Mt (Yukon):

by N face, 74 242Kenya, Mt: notes & new climbs:

74182 8223575149 8323676208 8422377244 8522078235 8622380260 8721881236

Triennial report 1971-73, 792251st asc. of Diamond Couloir,

7783-51st winter asc. of S ridge, 77 244definition of Grand Traverse of,

852201st complete asc. by Diamond

Couloir, 79 225Cambridge expedition to, 86 242'Through the Ice Window to

Nelion', art. 91 116M.E.F. note, 92 243

Kerr, Faye: obit. 88283Kersten Glacier:

asc. of Kilimanjaro by, 82 171-3Kesch, Piz: asc., 78 135Keswick brothers: art. 79 55

note on the Abrahams, 80 284Khandut Valley: ascs. from, 75 177Khanna, yc.: his book:

Saser Kangri, 87 255Kharkhyra Peaks, Mongolia:

ref. to & map, 86 104-5Khergiani, M.: death, 75 344

port. 75345Khinyang Chhish:

1st asc., 77 21; 89 185ill. 77 25

Kholi: asc. of Pt. 19,879ft., 74229Khumbu Himal: map of, 74 235Khwaja Muhammad Group:

ascs. in, 75 178Kilimanjaro: ascs., 74 182; 79225

notes, 84 223; 85 221asc. by blind boys, 74 182Mawenzi: 1st asc. by middle

33GENERAL INDEX

Kolahoi: ascs., 74226; 83175schoolboys expedition to, art.

83174Kommunizma, Pik: see Communism

PeakKomprej, Irena:

'Aconcagua South Face', 89 157Kongen:

1st asc. by E face direct, 74 150Kongur, Mt: expedition to, art. with

photos & map, 8671st asc., 87 224historical background, 88 651st asc. listed, 89 185

Korea, South:mountaineering in, art. 8355;map, 8355expeditions overseas, 83 63

Kotgaz-Chhutidum Glacier:1st asc. of Pt. 5681m, 74 205

Kotgaz glacier:ascs. from & maps, 74 203, 204-5

Koyo Zorn: correct height, 742161st asc., 74 2172nd asc., 75 179

Kramarsic, J.: his books:Bibliography of ColoradoMountain Ascents 1863-1976

Bibliography of Colorado RockClimbs and lee Climbs 1863-1976', 90 267

Krawczyk, c.: his book:Mountaineering - A Bibliographyof Books in English to 1974,83264

Kristians glacier: ascs. from, art.with photos & maps, 74 276

Krog, W.:'Climbing in Rhodesia', 77 86

Kuffner, S.: obit. 83 269Kulu: notes, 74 226; 84 225

1st asc. of Mukar Beh, 74 581st asc. of Ali Ratni Tibba, 75 9,

1931st asc. of Parvati Peak, 75 56;map 75 541st asc. of two rock peaks, Pt.

5711m & Pt. 5692m, 77 38ascs., 78240-3; 82 85-7

Kumar, Col. N.: his books:Kangchenjunga - First Ascent fromthe North-East Spur, 85254

Nilakantha, the first ascent, 88 243Kunde Hospital, Nepal:

cases at, 89 80

Kishtwar:map, 86181

asc. of Kishtwar-Shivling, art. withphotos, 89 34

traverse of Kishtwar-Himalayawith asc. of Peak 6240m, art.8935; maps, 8936, 38-9

Klotz, M.: his book: (with G. Hauser)Die Hutten der DeutschenAlpenvereins, 75 316

Knowles, D.: obit. 80304Koblmiiller, E.:

'The ascent of K6', 76 149'Huascaran, E face direttissima',

7939Kodama, S.:

'Rakaposhi from the North',86185

'Bogdo Ola Group Survey', 88 70Kogan, Claude:

climbing career, 83 82-5Koh-e-James: 2nd asc., 74215Koh-i-Andaval: asc., 74212Koh-i-Bandaka:

asc. & accident, 74 196attempts, 76 214ascs., 79254; 84 139; ill. 84 138

Koh-i-Bandaka Zeraghan:1st asc., 79 254

Koh-i-Hevad: 2nd asc., 74213Koh-i-Jashin: asc., 74213Koh-i-Kesnikhan: asc., 76215Koh-i-Khaiik: by N face, 79 111Koh-i-Laksh: 1st asc., 74216Koh-i-Mina:

now known as Kohe Dusti, 75 179Koh-i-Mondi: by N face, 79112Koh-i-Murchech:

1st asc. by W ridge, 76 213Koh-i-Myiani: 2nd asc., 74213Koh-i-Ogaki: asc., 74 195Koh-i-Stara: asc., 74226Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha:

2nd asc., 74 195Kohe Mandaras:

asc." 84 138; ill. 84 136Kohe Skhawr:

new routes, art. 84 172Kohistan:

expeditions, with map, 74 187Kohli, Capt. M.S.: his books:The Himalayas. Playgrounds ofthe Gods, 89241; 91 257

Trek the Himalayas, 91257


Kurczab, J.:'Shispare climbed', 80 223'Polish K2 expedition 1976', 838

Kus, A.: 'The Polish Karakoramexpedition 1969', 76 181

'The Battle for Khinyang Chhish',77221

(with J. Nyka) 'Note on thehistory of Polish Alpinism',78107

'British Alpinists in the Tatra',79153

Kusum Kanguru: 1st asc. of NEridge to E summit, 89 189

expedition, art. with photos &map, 90 105

Kuthi Valley project 1968: 74230Kuzel, de: death, 76 193Kvandalstind:

1st asc. by NE face, 74172

LA CHAPELLE, E.R.: his book:The ABC of A valanche Safety,85250

Labande, F. : his books:100 Sommets, 83262Grandes Courses, 87 256

Lachenko, c.:his book: (with others) Escalades

en Vallee de ['Anglin, 83234Ladakh: travelling in, & topography,

art. 85 129; maps, 85 131, 135Ladies Alpine Club: merger with

Alpine Club, 81 257; 83 89Lahul:

1st asc. of Peak 18,977ft., 75 43Lake District: new climbs, 80275

fell running, art. 81 40winter mountaineering in (1892

art.), 84 177The Lake Dis~rict Discovered

1810 -1850, catalogue ofexhibition, 89 252

Lalana (Bara Shigri):1st asc., 76224

Lall, J.S.:his book (editor): The Himalaya,

90 262Lambley, D.G.: obit. 88279Lamjung Himal: 1st asc., 8042

ill. 80 38, 40Lampak Group:

ascs. in, 74230; 75 195Lamtrang Lirung: 1st asc., 84 232Lancaster, R.: his book:

Plant Hunting in Nepal, 87 259

Langar:2nd asc. of highest summit, 74 203

Langmuir, E.: his books:Mountain Leadership, 75 310Mountaincraft and leadership,

90275Languedoc limestone: 80 218Lapuch, K.:

'Some extreme ski runs', 7531Latok Peaks:

Latok II: attempted, 83 114ill. 83 119 1st asc., 83 238Latok I: climbed by new route,

85222Latok III: 1st asc., 85222Latok IV: accident on, 86 194

Lauge Koch, Mt: asc., 75 237Lauterbrunnen Breithorn:

in winter, 81 48Lauterbrunnen Valley:

in the 18th century, 8661-3Lavaredo, The Cima di:

Cima Grande: by direttissima &superdirettissima, 74 55by Saxonweg, 74 179

Cima Ovest: N face, 1st asc. overthe roof, 74 561st British asc. by Rudolf-Baurroute, 75 59, 1461st asc. (1879), 84 207

Lawrie, R.: obit. & port., 88 260Le Blond, Mrs Aubrey:

climbing career, 81 97Leahy, E.P.:

'On the Juneau Ice-field', 92 192Leclerq, B.: his book: La Montagne.

Bibliographie Belge, 90 263Lee, c.: his book: On Edge - the

life and climbs of Henry Barber,91246

Lee, Dorothy: obit. 88256; 89 260Leeming, P.:

'Salcantay: SW Face', 9227Lefebure, Molly: her book:

Cumberland Heritage, 76309Legless Climber in Peru: 84 255Leith, Hon. E.: obit. & port. 88283Lenin, Peak: international meet in

area of, 75 162; 80 89asc. by new route, 75 163

Leopold III, King of Belgium:obit. 89260

Lepidoptera: of the Northern Andes,ill. art. 89 90

Leppert, Z.: his guidebook:O,l?wen,88 251

GENERAL INDEX 35Lesniak, E.: (editor) guide book:Yorkshire Gritstone, 89 255

Lester, J.T.:'Personality and Everest', 74 101

Levy, H.B.L.: obit. 84268Lewis, J.E.L.: obit. 87265Lewis-Lloyd, Emmeline:

climbing career, 81 96Lhakpa Tsering: death, 76 229Lhotse: 1st attempt on S Wall,

79255winter attempt, 81 241Polish expedition 1974, 82 28; ill.

8229, 31, 332nd asc., 83 2401st asc. listed 89 184attempt on W face, 89 59, 189

Lhotse Shar: 1st asc., 76 232attempt, 77 249

Lightning: effects of, art. 80 173literature on, 80174protection from, 80 180

Ligoncio, Pizzo: 1st British asc. byWNW face direct, 76 107, 202

Lines of sight: longest on surfaceof earth, 82 257

Linsbauer, A.: death, 75345Lisney, S.: 'Dental emergencies in

the mountains', 8246Literature, mountaineering:

8115-19,175-9Litter: in the Alps, 79 272Littlejohn, P.:

his book: (with M. Harber)Pembroke, 87 256

Livesey, P.:extreme rock climber, 83 227-32his books: French Rock Climbs,

86220Rock Climbing, 86 257

L1ihirini (Cordillera Real):1st asc. of S face, 89 188

Lloyd, P.: (with C. Putt) a tribute toH.W. Tilman, 84 132

'Twenty fifth anniversary of firstascent of Mt Everest', 84 250

as President of Alpine Club,Valedictory Address, 853

Lobi, R.:his book: (with H. Merrick) TheAlps in Colour, 76 306

Loewy, R.: 'Unveiling of the newBernard Biner Plague at Zermatt

(19 August 1986)', 92 175Lofoten Islands: ascs. in, 74 169

climbing possibilities, 87 52

Logan, H.: his book:The Mt Cook Guidebook, 89255

Logan, Mt: climbed, 81 31centennial ridge, 1st asc., 83 242

Logan Mts: ascs. in the Southern,with map, ill. art. 74 109

Logistics for expedition leaders:problem, 86 244solution, 87 233

Long distance walks:Peak District, 8074-9

Longacre, J.K. :'On foot in Nepal', 84 181

Longevity among climbers: 84 255Longland, J.: as President of Alpine

Club, Valedictory Address, 823Longstaff, T.: advice quoted, 8652Lord, D.: 'The Coming

Disintegration ofMountaineering', 86 32

Lorry: to Pakistan by, 74 327Lortscher, F.: 'Mawenzi - a complete

traverse from S to N', 76 138'Kilimanjaro - first ascent of the

Northern Ice-field', 78 166'Twenty years of glacier recession

on Kilimanjaro', 87 54Lost Arrow Chimney: asc., 74 92Lotschenliicke: crossed on skis, 74 89Lotus Flower Tower (Logan Mts):

by SE face, 74 242Lovelock, J.: his book:A Caving Manual, 87 258

Lucas, J.P.: obit. 86262Lucchesi, A.: 'The Calanques', 8521

his book: Escalades a Sugiton. St-Cyr, 90265

Lucock, P.: 'The Hoggar Mountains1976-7', 8343

Lukan, K.: his book:The Alps and Alpinism, 74367

Lung damage: and freezing air,87227

Lunkho group:photos & maps, 74208-11Lunkho-i-Dosare: 1st asc., 74213

2nd asc., 74 178Lunkho-i-Hawar: 1st asc. of W &

W central peaks, 74213; 75 1791st asc. of E & E central peaks,

75179Lunn, Sir A.: 'The Playground of

Europe 1871 to 1971',77 1obit. 80298his book: The Enchanted Lakes,

83261


Lunn, P.: his book: The GuinnessBook of Ski-ing, 89 252

Lykeri, Mt: climbed, 83 211Lynam, J.P.O'F.:

'Mountaineering in Ireland',85162

his guidebook:'Irish Peaks, 89255Lyngen Peninsula: mountains of,

8067Lyon: rock climbing near, 87 136Lyskamm: the 1877 accident, 82217

M7 (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 75 173McAndrew, Beatrice M.: obit.

75345climbing career, 82 108-9

MacAndrews, S.: death, 79 259McArtney, J.: obit. & port., 75 346McClymont, W.G.: death, 76291McDermott, P.: obit. 75346Machail: 8935McInnes, B.:

'Astronomy from Mountains',89173

McInnes, H.: 'British-SovietCaucasus Expedition 1970',76 111

his books:Climb to the Lost World, 80 290Look Behind the Ranges, 85 256Scottish Winter Climbs, 89255International Mountain RescueHandbook, 90 275Beyond the Ranges, 90275Sweep Search, 92270

McIntyre, A.: obit. & port., 88 276his book: (with D. Scott) The

Shishapangma Expedition,91243

McIver, K.: death, 79 256McKeith, 'Bugs': obit. 84265MacKenzie, J.R.: his book: Rock

and Ice Climbs in Skye, 88250McKinley, Mt: 2nd asc. by W rib of

S face, 75 2061st solo & other ascs., 76 239new route on S face, 82 180-1ill. 82 174-5problems of inexperienced

climbers, 82 182-3ref. to in art. 8464-78ill. 83 opp. 24; 84 68

MacKinnon, T.D.:obit. & port. 87 266

MacLeod, R.: his book:Path of Ghosts, 82262

MacMillan, J.: his poems:Eye to the Hills, 88247

McMorrin, I.:his book: (with C.W.F. Noyce)

The World Atlas ofMountaineering, 75298

Macquarie, C.: 'The North Face ofMt Deborah', 83 50

Madeira: asc. of Pico Ruivo, 92 263Maden, E.: 'Southern Logan

Mountains 1968', 74 108Madri dei Camosci, Torre delle:

1st asc. by NW face, 76 204Maeder, H.: his book: The

Mountains of Switzerland,75306

Mahli-ka-Parbat: asc., 78 186Majorteqe: summit reached, 80 207Makalu:

1st asc. by SE ridge, 7635, 2323rd asc. & 1st by W ridge, 77 249;

7844attempts, 7845; 79255ascs., 82 2401st ascs., 89 184, 186ill. 78 53

Maladetta: art. 8984Malana glacier, South:

1st ascs. in area, 77 248Malatynski, M.: 'Kangchenjunga

South and Central 1978', 85 43Malawi: climbing in, art. 85 69Malaysia: new climbs & notes,

83240Mallory, G.L.: biography, 74365Malubiting: attempt, 74 218

1st asc. of N peak, 75 185various expeditions, 76 180-91st asc. of W (highest) peak,

77 247; 7854; ill. 78 54Mammals:

of E African Mts, art. 79 179ill. 79 181-3, 186

Man and the mountain environment:art. 74133

Mana Parbat (Gangotri): asc., 76225Manang: map of Chulu peaks, 90 98Manaslu:

2nd asc. & 1st by W wall, 77 26;ill. 77 27; map, 7728

3rd asc. & 1st by S face, 78 241;7915

accident on, 782414th asc., 79 255Japanese Women's asc., 8098

37GENERAL INDEX

Mauritius: climbing in, 78 161Mawenzi: see KilimanjaroMayo, F.e.: obit. 83270Mazeaud, P.: his book: Naked beforethe Mountain, 80 253

Meade, e.: obit. 81 269Mear, R.: 'Kalanka 1974', 8169Meconopsis: 91 160Medical: problems of high altitude,

art. 78 153; 83 158symposium, papers read, 82 257research on Mt Kongur, art. 8765lung damage & freezing air, 87 227aspects of small expeditions,

87237sherpas & sickness, 89 80acute mountain sickness, art.

81217; 8968notes, 90 257'Does the lung pump oxygen?',

art. 91 171see also entries under Oedema

Medicine: books: Medicine formountaineering, 75 311

Japanese Journal of MountainMedicine, 88243

Mountain Data Centreinformation, 91 263

Medlycott, T.A.H.:death, 76 291; 77296obit. 78289

Mehrbani: summit reached, 83 69ill. 83 68

Mehta, S.S.: 'Triennial Report1972-74 Indian Himalaya', 80239

Meije, the: 1st asc. (1877), 82216Meikle, A.H.: obit. 90 282Melzer, B.: death, 76 189Menthosa: reconnaissance, 75 41

attempt, 75 431st asc., 76 225other ascs., 79 22, 26summit reached by new route,

85155Merle d'Aubigne, R.: his book:Secourisme en Montagne, 75312

Merrick, H.: his books:(with R. Lobi) The Alps in Colour

76306Companion to the Alps, 80 252

Merrick, Mary H.: obit. 84 269Messner, G.: death, 76 221Messner, R.: his books:

The Seventh Grade, 80 289Mountain People of the World,82264

Manaslu:accident, 80 991st asc., 89 184

Mandaras Glacier:1st asc. of Peak 141 from, 75 174

Manikaren Spires: ascs. in, 7841description of, 78 431st asc. in, 79 254

Manresa Zorn: ascended, 79201, 25·Many Peaks Mt (Australia):

ascended, 79 33Maps: indexed under subject

headings and listed underSpecial Districts at end

March, W.: his book: Modern Snowand Ice Techniques, 90 276

(with J. Cunningham) 'New ice-climbing techniques andequipment', 77 75

Marcus, P.: 'Metallized plasticsheeting for use in cold climate

survival', 82 126Marriott, E.H.:

obit. & port. 91 286; 92 282Marriott, M.: his book: Mountainsand Hills of Britain, 88246

Marsh, J.: his book: Climbing inSouthern Ontario, 87260

Marsh, T.: his book:The Summits of Snowdonia, 90 261

Marshall, J.: 'Dougal Haston - atribute', 83 132

Martel, E.A.:doyen of European caving, 80 111

Martin, S.:'Everest - Pre-monsoon', 90 113

Martinelli, M.:his book: (with R.I. Perla)Avalanche Handbook, 85251

Masherbrum:in list of first ascs., 89 185

Mason, Lt. Co!. K.: obit. 82271Matas, J.: death, 77246Matsuda, T.:

death on Yalung Kang, 8026-7Matsukata, S.: obit. 79 282Matterhorn: N face, attempt, 7467

by N face, 75 141; 92 167winter attempt by W face, 78 8queues on, 802861st guideless asc. (1876), 81225North Face film, 82265accident on, 83 234image of, art. 89113

Maudit, Mt: by SE face, variation toKagami route, 75 138

VOLUMES 74-92Milner, e.D.:

his book: The Photoguide toMountains, 83259

Milsom, Mrs M.G.: obit. 91268Minapin (Diran):

1st asc., 74 217; 75 185attempt, 76 219

Minapta Valley: 74 253Minivielle, P.: his book: A la

Decouverte de la Sierra de Guarra,80291

Mir Samir:by new routes, 76 218; 772451st asc. of SW summit, 79 254

Mitchell, R.L.: obit. 88257Miyar Nullah: King's School, Ely

expedition to, 85 154; map,85 155

summary of peaks ascended,85157

Mjelva Crag: 1st ascs. of centraldiedre & N edge, 74 172

Modi Peak: 2nd asc., 76 229Moffat, Gwen: her books:

Hard Option, 81 264Over the Sea to Death, 82 262Hard Road West, 87 254Die like a Dog, 89 247Grizzly Trail, 90275

Mojon Rojo: 2nd known asc., 74 273Molnar, P.: 'Ulugh Muztagh', 92104Manch:

NE ridge, 1st asc. (1877), 82 215climb on, 1st Alpine season, 8730

Mongejura:1st asc. of W diedre, 74 154, 171

Mongolia:review of mountains, art. 86 104;

map, 86 104-5Mont, e.: 'Montserrat', 79210

'Languedoc Limestone', 80218The Caroux', 81 212'Mountain landscape - erosion

landforms', 83198'Outcrops in Vaud', 84141'Some more lists of mountains',

84197'Fontainebleau', 85 208'More rocks in central France',

87135'Freyr', 88 134

Monteath, e.: Triennial Report1969-71Australasia', 77 219

Montfort, J .M.: 'Spanish expeditionHindu Kush 1973', 79 199

INDEX TO

Messner, R.:The Challenge, 84 258The Big Walls, 85251Everest, Expedition to theUltimate, 85 255K2 Mountain of Mountains,87259Solo Nanga Parbat, 87 260

subject of art. by O. Oelz, 92 100Metcalfe, Sir R.I.: obit. 84269Meteorology: notes, 80 281

see Science notesMetric conversions:

difficulties of, 82 259Meyers, G.: (compiler) his book:

Yosemite Climber, 85257Miangul Sar:

1st, 2nd & 3rd ascs., 74 188Midgley, J.e.: obit. 90286Midi d'Ossau, Pic du:

description of, 80 132-3Milburn, G.: 'Events & Trends 1978-81

Rock climbing in Britain', 87 175his books: Llanberis Pass, 87257

Stanage Millstone, 89253Derwent Gritstone, 91 255Helyg, 92261(with T. Jones) Welsh Rock,92257

Miles, G.e.: obit. 82272Mill, D.N.: obit. 87267Millar, T.G.: his book: Long

Distance Paths of England andWales, 83262

Milledge, J.S.:'Acute Mountain Sickness', 89 68'Does the lung pump oxygen?',

91 171Miller, K.J.: 'Traverse of the

Staunings Alps', 81 143his book: Continents in Collision,

88235Mills, A.: 'Walking and climbing in

Botswana', 84 38'Additional notes on Namibia',

85 197Milne, M.: his book: The Book of

Modern Mountaineering, 74369Milner, e.D.: 'Basil Goodfellow -

mountain photographer', 82 199'Shots from the backwoods', 84 78'Samivel - an appreciation', 8559'Sydney Spencer - mountain

photographer', 86 132

38

GENERAL INDEX 39

Montmirail, Dentelles de:climbs on, 79207

Montserrat:climbs in the Massif, 79210

Monzino, G.: his book: LaSpedizione ltalianaAll'Everest 1973, 82261

Moore, T.:(with K. Andrasko) 'Shining

mountains, nameless valleys:Alaska and the Yukon', Pt.I8119; PUI 8323; PUll 84 64

'Sangay Survived - the first time',8628

his book: Mount McKinley: thePioneer Climbs, 74375

Moores, P.: 'Five Miles Highwithout oxygen', 89 59

Moran, M.:'Views on the Gangotri', 91 57his book: The Munros in Winter,

92273Moravetz, B.: his book (editor): TheBig Book of Mountaineering,

88247Moravia: climbing areas, 8277Mordecai, D.: his book:The Himalaya (an illus.

summary), 75 317Morgan, G.:

'China's Highest Mountain', 88 65Morin, Micheline: obit. 78 294Morin, Nea: climbing career, 82 114;

8379-81obit. & port., 92 290

Moro Pass, Mte: history of, 76 127visited, 79 69

Morocco:expedition to High Atlas, 78236art. with photos, 'The Ridge of

Dreams', 92 150guidebook notes, 92 250guidebook, 92 274

Morris, J.: obit. & port., 87268Morse, R.G.: his books:The Mountains of Canada, 84 260The Naked Mountain, 89 249

'Morte d'un Guide: film, 82265Mortimer, M.: 'The North Face of

Monte Agner', 74 36Motorbikes: & mountaineering,

82248Moulam, T.: his book:Dartmoor, 83 247

Mould, P.: 'Garhwal Himalaya - theBhillangana valley', 82 168

'Mountaineering in Bhutan', 90 21'Dear Dad', 90 140

Mountain(s): use of a, to find themass of the earth, 78 96

building & plate tectonics, notes,80279

films, 80 167gorilla, compared to Yeti, 80 104geological definition, 80 56; 83 198heights, list of principal mountains

in world, 81 75artists & paintings, art. 85 33paintings exhibited at Alpine

Club, 85243in early history, 86 90clothing, 86 138, 237

Mountain and cave rescue:handbook, 91 258

Mountain, R.W.: obit. 87261Mountaineering:

as an Olympic Sport, 80 90and war, 84 256

Mountaineering Journals: reviewed,74383; 75318; 76317; 78277

available at Alpine Club, 7927;80292

Mountaineers, USA (publishers):book:

Medicine for Mountaineering,75311

Mountaineers and Scientists:distinction between, 86 247

Mourti, Pointe de: by new routes onN & S summits, 74 176

Mroz, A.: 'Winter 1971-72', 788death, 78 8 (f.n.)

Muhi Zorn: 1st asc., 75 169Mukar Beh: 1st asc., 74 58, 227Mulhacen, El:

Spain's highest mountain, 89 119Mulkila: asc., 76 224

attempt, 78 180Muller, F.:

his book: (with others) Firn undEis der Schweizer Alpen, 82263

Munns, D.J.: obit. 79282Munos Gamero Peninsula:

visited, 80 1, 3Munoz-Tebar, R.A.R.:

his book: Nieves y RiscosMeridenos, 87253

VOLUMES 74-92Nanga Parbat:

traverse, 76 2194th asc. & 1st of SE & Fore

Peaks, 77 2476th asc. by new route on S side,

82238account of 1978 Czech expedition,

88244asc. by E pillar, art. 89 21map, 76221; 8922ill. 89 between 24 & 25

Nangeroni, G.:his book: (with R. Cassin) Lhotse

75, 83263Napes Needle: art. 81 53; ill. 81 54Napier, J.: his book:

Big Foot, 87258Naranjo de Bulnes: 86175Natal:

events & trends 1974-76, 82231Navarette, R.: his book (with J

Anhalzer) Par los Andes delEcuador 90 273

Navy Mts (Ellesmere Island):79174

Naylor, J.:Lake District runner, 81 40, 43-4

Neal, K.: 'Fuorikante', 90 145Neate, W.R.: his book:

Mountaineering and its Literature85249

Nelson's Mts: 1. Thomas Douglas,781

2. Goodwin Purcell, 79 34Nepal: regulations governing

mountaineering expeditions,74 230; 80 264; 83 226; 84 229

notes and new climbs:1969, 75 196 1978, 84 2311970, 76227 1979, 85 2231971, 77 248 1980, 862251972, 78241 1981, 872221973, 79255 1982, 88 1991974, 80264 1983, 89 1971975, 81 241 1984, 90 2161976, 82 239 1985, 91 2031977, 83239 1986, 92203

events & trends 1970-6, 83218running in, art. 84 181thoughts on climbing, art. 88 201guidelines & notes for

expeditions & travellers,89200-6

winter journey in Eastern, art.91 103

NAGRA TAU: attempt by N face,76112

Nairz, W.: 'Manaslu 1972',7915Nakaseko N.: 'Japanese Women's

Expedition - Manaslu 1974', 80 94Nally, B.: 'Suddenly all hell broke

loose', 74 67Namibia: climbing in, 84 113; 85 197Nampa: attempt, 76 227; 77 126

1st asc., 78 241Nanda Bhanar: attempt, 75 196Nanda Devi: attempt, 76 227

ill. & ref. to, 80 158climbed by N ridge, 82 239traverse from Nanda Devi E,

82238spy devices on, 84 253

Nanda Khat: attempt, 76 227Nanda Pal: 1st asc., 79 255Nanga Parbat:

attempt by Rupal face, 742253rd asc., 1st by Rupal face, 1st

40 INDEX TOMunro's Tables of the 3000-foot

Mountains in Scotland:1969 edition, 75 3171981 edition, 88 246SMC Guidebook, 92 256Munros in Winter, book by M.

Moran, 92273Munsey, D.T.F.: obit. 86268Muongia, La: ski asc., 75 129Murarata:

1st asc. by SW ridge, 75 221Murphy, B.:

'AC Karakoram Meet', 91 53Murphy, Dervla: her book: Where

the Indus is Young, 84 262Murray, Edith A.: obit. 92 303Murray, W.H.:

'Present Moments', 86 47his books:

The Scottish Highlands, 83263Mountaineering in Scotland,85252Undiscovered Scotland, 85252

Mustagh Ata: ref. to in art. 86 9ill. 86 11asc. on ski, art. 88 29ill. 88 between 32 & 33successful expeditions to, 89 195,

196electrifying experience, art. with

photos, 92 117Mustagh Tower: climbed, 90 76

GENERAL INDEX 41

Nepal:guide to trekking in, 91 259asc. of Mera, art. 9289

Nevada, Sierra (Spain):ski-touring in, 74 179

Nevado Huascaran Sur:traverse by SW ridge, 88 159-60ill. 88 between 160 & 161

New Guinea: expedition to CarstenszMassif, 78 188

M.E.F. note, 92 243New Zealand: mountaineering

developments in, art. 7471notes:

74237 8124375203 8224176238 8423377225 8522578243 8622979256 9122580267 92236plate tectonics in, 85 239

climbing in, art. 91 133Newby, E.: his book: Great Ascents- a narrative history ofmountaineering, 83 259

Ngga Poloc: asc., 78 192Nicholls, C.R.: obit. 92307Nichols, K.: his book: Traprock.Connecticut Rock Climbs, 88 249

Nicol, D.: 'Kinabalu - NorthernBorneo', 90 187

Nicol, H.G.: 'Paldor', 9178Niger: ascs. in, 77 243Niligata Zorn: 1st asc., 74 203Nisbet, A.: 'Winter Climbing on the

Peigne, Scottish Style', 89134his book: (with A. Fyffe)

'Climbers' Guide to theCairngorms, 91 260

Nixon, J.: 'British West KarakoramExpedition 1981', 87 132

'The British Andean ClimbingExpedition 1986', 92 67

Nogare, R.D.: obit. 84 265; 85261Noghor Zorn I & II: 1st ascs., 74 204Nohbaisnom Zorn: 1st asc., 74 200Norande, S.: his book: (with Samivel)La Grande Ronde autour du MontBlanc, 87 248

Nordeifel: climbs in the, 86 153Nordic Ski-ing:

developments in equipment,84245

Norte, Cerro: 1st asc., 75234

North America: notes:74240 8224275206 8324176239 84 23477250 8522678247 8622979257 8820780268 9022981243

triennial report 1969-71, 77229climbing trends 1972-74, 80238rock climbing, art. 90 153ill. 90 between 152-3, following

160M.E.F. notes, 92 238

North Pole: reached solo, 84 253North Wales: new climbs, 80274Norway:

climbing in Romsdal, art. 74 150note, 74 171Lofoten islands, 74 169ski traverse of Haute Route of

central, 75 136new climbs 1972, 78 233rock climbing in, Northern, art.

87246Noshaq: ascs., 75172,173; 76215;

78 184; 82 28; 84 1391st winter asc., 79 11, 24

Nowill, S.: 'Turkey 1980 - Torasan,Kackar and mountain rescue',

86159Noyce, C.W.F.:

his book: (with I. McMorrin) TheWorld Atlas of Mountaineering,75298

Nun Kun: ascs., 78 240descent of Nun on skis, 83238

Nunn, P.: 'A hundred days in theHimalaya 1977. Pt.I Latok II',83114

'A hundred days in the Himalaya1977. Pt.II Baleful Barnaj',8487

'The Karakoram 1982', 88 192'Karakoram 1983', 89212'Karakoram 1985', 91 208'Karakoram 1986', 92210

Nuptse: British Nepalese ArmyExpedition to, 81 107

attempt, 81 107, 2411st asc. of NW ridge, 83 240climbed, 85 223

Nuts: protection devices, 84 244Nyka, J.: (with A. Kus) 'Note on the

history of Polish Alpinism', 78 107

42 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Nylon garments:

waterproof outer, 74326

OBERALPSTOCK: asc. on skis,7486

Oberland, Bernese: British ascs. in,1971, 77240; 1972,78232

climbs in the 1880's, art. 86 115Oberreintalturm:

by Gonda diedre, 74 179climbing in the area of, art. 91 122

O'Brien, Miriam: see Underhill, M.Observatories:

in the mountains, art. 89 173O'Connell, K.:

'The Way to Chulu', 9097obit. 90289

O'Connor, W.:'Last Virgin in the Khumbu', 88 21

Odell, Mrs G.M.: obit. 83270O'Donovan, R.: 'The South Face of

Mount Dan Beard (3127m)Alaska', 80 63

Oedema: field study, 81 217art. 85 168pulmonary & cerebral, 8968

Oelz, 0.: 'Reinhold Messner: thePhenomenon', 92 100

Ogi, F.: obit. 86263Ogre (Karakoram): attempt, 77 247

1st asc., 83 3; ill. 83 117Okasawa, S.: his book: Crags of the

Swiss Bernese Alps, 83 236Olan L': 1st asc. of middle summit

by NW face direct, 76 194Olech, K.: 'The first ascent of

Kangbachen', 80 29One ht:ndred years ago:

74340 8321175278 8420476175 8521177215 8621278206 87 15879213 888080231 896381220 9012182 213 91 192

92198One-man expeditions: art. 89 168Orienteering: getting fit for the

Alps, 74345Orolin, M.: his book: Strme Cesty

k Himalajam, 87 260Oropolitics: 89 74Ossa, Mt (Tasmania): 86 18

6sterreichischer Alpenklub:centenary, 83 254

Ostrava, Cerro (Patagonia):1st asc., 75 236

Otten, P.F.S.: obit. 74395Ovchinnikov, A.: 'The first ascent of

the S face of Peak Communism,1968' 7425

Owens, Major G.: obit. 81270Owir I: see AusherOxford English Dictionary:

on clubs, 86 247Oyarzun, G.: 'The Chilean

Karakoram expedition 1979',85 151

PADME HUM PEAK: 85 136Paglia Orba: by E face, 74 181Paiju: climbed, 82 237Pain de Sucre:

by SE ridge direct, 76 193Paine, Cordillera del: 1st ascs. of

Cerro Blanco & PrincipalCuernos, 74276

attempt, ascs.& prospects, 75 234-6Central Tower, attempt by E face,

78199 asc. by E face, 805-15Mummer, the, 1st asc., 84 117

Pakistan Alpine Club:founded, 79 272

Pala di San Martino:1st asc. (1878), 83 213

Palanganayoc Range: 74 270Palava rocks: art. 82 143Paldor:

trek to & asc. of, art. 91 78Pallavicini Couloir:

account of, 82 193-5Palmer, J.:

his book: (with A. Burgess)Everest, the UltimateChallenge' 90 267

Palmer Land, Antarctica: 89 87Palmowska, Krystyna:

'Broad Peak', 89 11Palii, Piz: asc., 75 129

by W pillar of N face, 76 105, 200by E pillar, 79 65

Pamiagdluk Island: 80 203Pamirs:

summary of major peaks, 78 177new climbs & notes, 83237topography & climbing

background, art. 85 83see also Special Districts p. 74

GENERAL INDEX 43

Panch Chuli: attempt, 762271st asc., 79 254

Papsura: 2nd asc., 78 240climbed, 83 151; ill. 83 150, 151

Paptula: asc., 7841Papua, New Guinea: 89 190Parachuting: from mountains,

74349;75 280; 76 99; 87 233

Paradiso range: description, 82 133ill. Gran Paradiso, 82 135, 139

Paragot, R.: (with others) 'TheFrench expedition to MakaluWest Ridge 1971', 7844

his book: (with L. Berardini) VingtAns de Cordee, 80 290

Parbati Group: 1st & 2nd ascs. ofhighest peak, 74226; 75 53, 194ill. 75 56, 57; map, 75 54

Parbati South, attempted, 79 115climbed; 79 124; ill. 79 116-7,119, 122, 123, 125, 126; map,79120

Pardoe, E.: obit. 76330Parker, J.W.: his book:Scrambles in Skye, 89253

Parmentier, M.:his book: (with M. Berruex) LesGrands Raids a Ski, 90274

Parque Nacional los Nevados,Colombia: 82 54

Pasteur, F.M.: obit. 86269Pasteur, H.W.: obit. 91269Pasteur, M.: obit. 87261Pasu Peak: 89 186Patagonia: asc. of SW buttress of

FitzRoy, 74 131notes & new climbs 1968, 74273notes & new climbs 1969-70,

75225Southern ice-cap: 1st crossing of

central part, 79 237map, 79 239; ill. 79 242-3new climbs 1973-74, 80 270history & prospects, 81 194and Tierra del Fuego: events &

trends 1974-76, 82226new climbs 1978, 84241E ridge of San Lorenzo, art. 9248Cordillera Darwin, art. 92 54M.E.F. notes, 92 239

Patel, N.: death, 76226Paterson, Grizel M.S.: obit. 90 288

Patey, T.: death, 75 285obit. & port. 76331his book: One Man's Mountains,

77278Patrasi Himal:

1st asc. of Pt. 5967m, 77 248Pause, W.: his books:1m Extremen Fels, 76311(with J. Winkler) 100 SealateEstreme, 85253

Payne, R.: 'Three excursions in thePeruvian Cordilleras', 92 37

Peacocke, T.A.H.:'The Circuit of Andorra', 83 160

Peak 29 (Dakura): attempt, 75 199possible 1st ascs., 76229; 85223;

89185Peak 141 (Mandaras glacier):

1st asc., 75 174Peak 18,977 ft. (Lahul):

1st asc., 75 43Peak 20,684 ft. (Chaturangi glacier):

1st asc., 75 195Peak District:

walking in, art. 80 71; map, 80 70Peaker, G.F.: obit. &' port. 89264Pearl, Susan Warren: obit. 89268Pearse, R.O.:

'The Natal Drakensberg', 78 27his book: Barrier of Spears, 80 254

Peascod, W.: his book:Journey after Dawn, 91 248

Peck, E.: 'Mt Everest FoundationNotes 1980-81', 87 238

'Round Annapurna - the TrekkingParty', 87 186

'Mt Everest Foundation Notes1981-82',88212

'Mt Everest Foundation Notes1982-83', 89 188


'An October Trek in Bhutan',9194



Pedgley, D.: his book:Mountain Weather, 86258

Pedriza del Manzanares, La:art. 82 145

Pegish Valley:1st ascs. from, 75 177

INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-9244

Pegish Zorn I & II:1st ascs., 74 203-4

Peigne, Aig. du: couloir dangerousin descent, 74 173

asc. of N ridge, art. 82 186Peigne, Col du:

winter asc., art. 89 134ill. 89 following 144

Peilstein: climbs on, 79208Peissel, M.: his book: The Great

Himalayan Passage, 81 264Pembroke:

geology & accident hazards,90 148

Pennine Alps:travel & trade in, art. 77 175British ascs. in 1971, 77 241British ascs. in 1972, 78231

Penning, A.: his guide:Wyndcliffe, 89255

Pennisi, F. & L.: their book:L'Arrampicata Sportiva, 90262

Pepper, L.R.:obit. & port. 88 256obit. 89259

Perdu, Mt: 86 77Perla, R.I.:

his book: (with M. Martinelli)Avalanche handbook, 85251

Perrin, J.: his books:(editor) Mirrors in the Cliffs,

90260The Life of J.M. Edwards, 92253On and Off the Rocks, 92 265

Perry, R.: his book:Mountain Wildlife, 87259

Personality tests on climbers: 74 101Peru: notes & new climbs:

74247 8522975210 8722480269 8922684239

triennial report 1971-73, 79229events & trends 1974-76, 82220climbs in Cordillera Apolobamba,

art. 91135Andes guidebook, 91 252-3Three excursions in the Cordilleras

art. 9237M.E.F. notes, 91 228

Peskett, N.: obit. 92286Peter Botte Mt: 1st asc., 78 161Peterka, H.: 'Peilstein - a well

known Viennese trainingmountain', 79 208

Peters, E.: his book (editor):Mountaineering, the Freedom of

the Hills, 88 247Peters, I.: 'Beyond Patagonia', 92 54Pettifer, M.: obit. 83 271Pettigiani, G.: his book (with G.

Agnolotti)"Cordigliera tra cielo eghiaccio" 86 255

Peuterey, Aig. Noire de:by S ridge, 75 1382nd asc. of W face by Boccalatte

route, 76 193key to start of S ridge, 76 1931st asc. (1877), 82 216

Peuterey, Aig. Blanche de:1st British asc. by N face, 75 138

Phabrang: reconnaissance & attempton, 7541-7

1st asc., 78 240Phenomena, optical:

for mountaineers, art. 77 39Phipps, Mt: climbed 82 56Phola Gangchhen: 1st asc., 90299Photography: 'Tairraz family of

Chamonix -four generations ofmountain photographers', ill.art. 80 161

'Basil Goodfellow - mountainphotographer', art. 82 199

the Tempest Anderson collectionat the Yorkshire museum,85258

from the Alpine Club Archives,85192

early mountain, art. 86 132by Vittorio Sella, 88 following 224Vittorio Sella, catalogue of his

photographs, 89 250Mountains and Mountaineering

1883-1983, an exhibition ofphotographs by Alpine Clubmembers, 89278

book: Montagne - a collection ofmountain photographs, 90 278

Phu Dorje: death, 75 341Phukpoche glacier:

ascs. of unnamed summits, 76 224Phunangma: ascs., 76 224Phuparash Peaks: photo, 74223Physiology: new developments in,

81 254; 82252; 83 158, 251Picos de Europa:

climbs, 86175; 87254history, 86 172

45

852318623589220

Poland:history of alpinism in, art. 78 107training rocks in, 81 213mountain rescue in, 90 245

Polar regions: 1971 ascs. in, 77 254triennial report 1970-72, 78213new climbs:

81250822448324684242

Polish climbers:personality of, art. 79 87

Pollitt, A: his books:N Wales. New Climbs, 89253N Wales Limestone 1983, 90263

Pollution in the Alps: art. 81 160Pontic Alps (Turkey): expedition to

Kackar Karron group, 75 153Porongorups (Australia):

ascs. in, 79 32Porte P.: his book: (with Z. Arbez)Vos Premiers Pas en ski de Fond,

82263Porter, Doris S.: obit. 86269Porter, H.E.L.: obit. 79283Porters, Himalayan:

regulations for hiring, 90 208Postcards, mountain: 84 110Potter, A.: obit. 81 270Potter, S.: 'The art of not rock

climbing', 84 107Poucher, W.A: his books:The Lake District, 88 256The Highlands of Scotland; TheAlps, 89251

The Yorkshire Dales and the PeakDistrict, 90 264

Pousset Chalets: 82 138-40Powell, P.: his book:Men Aspiring, 74 373

Powers, D.F. de Y.: death, 77272Pra See, Aig. de:

1st asc. by E face, 75 139Prabhu, R.S.: death, 76227Pravda, Peak: by a new route, 74 29Pre-Alps of Switzerland: art. 84 92Preston, L.J.G.:

'Memories of a first season', 87 30'A Long Day on the Schreckhorn',

88170Pret-Roose, Count M. de:

obit. & port. 86 270Price, L.W.: his book:Mountains and Man, 87254

GENERAL INDEX

Pierre, B.: his books: Le Petit Sherpaaux yeux bleus, 75 312

Victoire sur les Andes, 82 262Ils ont conquis l'Himalaya, 85257Phuti et l'homme des Neiges,

87258Pigeon Sisters:

climbing career, 81 94Pigott, AS.: obit. 85262Pilier d'Angle, Grand: Polish asc. by

new route on S face, 75 95, 137Pilkington, J.: his book:Into Thin Air, 92272

Pillar Rock: 82 44-6; ill. 8243, 45Pilley, Dorothy:

climbing career, 82 110-11see also Richards, Dorothea

Pillwax Couloir: 82 195Pindos range: traverse of, 78 25Pines, A: obit. 87 269Piotrowski, T.: 'Trollryggen North

Face in Winter', 81 172Pisco: climbed, 82 165Pithoragahr: regional notes & new

climbs, 85 223Piuquenes area (Andes):

ascs. in, 75 223Planchon, Cerro: 1st asc., 75 236Plateriyayoc Group:

Bangor expedition to, 74 263Playgrounds, climbers': 76 169;

77 183; 78 116; 79207Pleydell, Susan: her novel:Brighouse Hotel, 85 251

Pogacnikov Hut, Julian Alps:8295, 98

Poincenot, Aig.: 2nd asc., 74274Pt. 19,690 ft. (Gangotri):

asc., 74228Pt. 19,879 ft. (SSE of Kholi):

asc., 74229Pt. 21,390 ft. (E of Deoban):

2nd, 3rd & 4th ascs., 74 228, 229Pt. 23,080 ft. (W of Tirsuli):

attempt, 74 229Pt. 5681 m. (Kotgaz-Chhutidum):

1st asc., 74 205Pokorny, G.: 'Fiction in

Mountaineering Literature',85121

his book: (with others) TheInternational Directory ofMountaineering Clubs andOrganizations, 85 253

QAZI DEH:Austrian 1st ascs. in, 75 169American expedition to, 75 173

Quala Panja Valley: ascs. by Frenchexpedition from, with map, 74215

Quimsa Cruz, Cordillera: ascs. byJapanese expedition to, withmap, 74271

German expedition to, 75 173Quitaraju:

1st asc. by S ridge, 75 212Qungur Massif:

climbing history, 75202

RADAR mapping: 80226Radcliffe, P.: his book: Land of

Mountains - Hiking and Climbingin New Zealand, 87257

Rahozon Zorn: 1st asc., 75 169Railways: alpine, 77 129; 84 122Rainier, Mt: ill. 82 66Rainoldi, L.: his books : Antrona,

Bognanco, Sempione, 84263Alpe Veglia, 86257

VOLUMES 74-92

Pyatt, E.C.:'Some pioneers of coasteering' ,

83 191'Mountains - the lighter side',

84107(with T. Connor) compilers

'Science Notes', 84 246; 85 238'The Matterhorn Image', 89 113'Climb an Eponymous Mountain',

91146his books: A Climber in the West

Country, 74 377Climbing and Walking in South-East England, 76307The Guinness Book ofMountains and MountaineeringFacts and Feats, 86251The National PhysicalLaboratory - a History, 89 247The Passage of the Alps, 91 244

obit. 91287Pyrenees: Western National Park,

art. 80 129; map, 80 138climbing history, art. 8421ski-tour in, 8671glacier incident, 87 28travels in, arts. 88 145; 89 84;

90 166high level route guidebook, 88244art. 'Packe of the Pyrenees',

92156

INDEX TO

Price, T.: 'Short of the FoldingStuff', 91 183

Prisojnik: 82 99Prosser, J.:

'Parbati South, 1972', 79 115Prunes, J.: 'The Spanish expedition

towards Central Kangchenjunga1978' 86 177

Pruppoo-Brukh: 1st asc., 84118Prusiking: new method, 84 244Psychological behaviour at altitude:

art. 80244Pumasillo group:

with map & photographs, 74 256Australian expedition to, 75 212

Pumori: 2nd asc., 78 242ascs., 81 241

Purace Group, Colombia: 82 51Purcell Range:

description of & climbs in, 79 34Puskas, A.:

his book: (with I. Urbanovic)Nanga Parbat 8125m., 82264

Putha Hiunchuli:2nd & 3rd ascs., 78241attempt, 79 255

Putnam, W.L.: 'Nelson's Mountains.1. Thomas Douglas', 78 1

'Nelson's Mountains. 2. GoodwinPurcell', 79 34

his book: The Great Glacier andits house, 88 248

Putt, c.: (with P. Lloyd) a tributeto H.W. Tilman (1898-1978),

84 132Pyatt, E.C.: Editor of Alpine

Journal 1971-82'Chalk climbing in France', 76 173'Intervisibility', 77 172'Mountain landscape - the

Auvergne' 77 190'Bicentenary 1972', 78 96'North-Western France', 78117(with M. Brandt) 'Mountain

landscape - the Jura', 78 146(with J. Russell) 'Mountain

landscape - the Vosges', 79 149'The Dentelles de Montmirail',

79207'Burgundy - the Cote d'Or', 80 213'The mapping of mountain terrain

by side-looking airborne radar',80226

'Notes 1974 Equipment andTechnique', 80 277

46

GENERAL INDEX 47Rakaposhi:

climbed, 85 222; 86 188; 89 185N ridge route, diagram, 86 186

Rakhe Myani I & II: 1st ascs.,76215

Ramchukor: asc., 7922,27Ramond de Carbonnieres, L.-F.:

life & writings of, art. 86 147Ranitz, de, Dr C.J.A.: obit. 89263Ranrapalca: asc., 7441Ras Dashan:

1st asc. by NW pillar, 75 149Rasac: 1st asc. of S face, 83 243Rasica, Pta: asc., 75 48Raura, Cordillera:

Italian expedition to, 74 255ascs. in, 75 212

Rawlinson, Sir A.K.: President ofAlpine Club, obit. 91 1

Reader's Digest books:Les Alpes, 76 306Guide des Plantes Sauvages,

76311Real, Cordillera:

expeditions to, 75221; 782011972 expedition to, 78 201list of ascs., 78 205art. with photos, 90 172

Rebiffe, Monique:'Hauteroche', 86 157'Climbs in Champagne: Vertus',

88133Rebuffat, G.: his books:Glace, Neige et Roc, 76 305The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100finest routes, 81 228

Les Horizons Gagnes, 81265Gli Orizzonti Conquistati, 83 262Calanques, Ste Baume, SteVictoire, 86 259

Chamonix Mont Blanc 1900,87250

Le Massif des Ecrins, 89 250Cervin, 89 251(with others) a collection of 15

books of Belles Courses etc.,90 268

obit. & port. 91 281Rees, LB.: his book:Mynyddoedd, 82263

Rees, Lucy:her book: (with A. Harris) Take itto the limit, 87254

Renner, G.: his book: Biwak aufdem Dach der Welt, 87 260

Rescue equipment:advances in, in Britain, 75 267

Resort building:in the Alps, 77 274; 79 274

Revolution Peak: 8585-7Rey, A.: death, 75 347; obit. 76339Reynolds, Jan:

his book: (with N. Gillette)Everest Grand Circle, 92269

Reynolds, K.: 'Because its there -and all that', 83 17

'A progress in Pyreneisme', 8421'The life and writings of Ramond',

86147'That sinking feeling', 87 27'Across the High Pyrenees', 88 145'Not the Accursed Mountain',

8984'A Very Proper Enthusiasm',

90166his book: Mountains of thePyrenees, 89242

'Packe of the Pyrenees', 92 156Rhodesia: climbing in, 77 86-9;

78235; 79223; 80260map, 7789

Rice, N.R.: 'A guide to the archivesof the Alpine Club', 78 71

death, 79279Richard, G.: 'The Valleys of the

Creuse and the Anglin', 81 217'The Rocks at Surgy (Nievre,

France)', 83143Richards, Dorothea:

obit. & port. 92 308see also Pilley, Dorothy

Richards, LA.: 'Mountains andMountaineering as Symbols',82235

obit. 85263poems: 'Soldanella's Song', 88 64

'Finhaut', 88 152Richards, R.: 'International Meet to

Transalai Pamir', 80 89Richards, Ronnie: (with P.

Boardman)'British Everest expedition SW

face 1975', 81 3Richardson, Dorothy: her book: TheQuest of Simon Richardson, aBiography, 92 269

Richardson, S.:'Andes Adventure', 90 184'Hunter's S Ridge - Alpine Style',

9210

Rodda, R.: 'Mountains and Climbsin Tasmania', 86 17

Roer, H.H.: obit. 92296Roger, G.: obit. & port. 89274Rogers, B.: death, 75 346Rogers, N.A.J.: 'Climbs in the

Allievi Cirque, Bregaglia', 7548Rogerson, F.:

'In quest of the Ultimate', 81 40Rodwell, R.W.: obit. 88275Rolleston, Mt: climbed, ill. 82 64Rome: outcrop climbing from,

77188Romero, R.A.: his book:

Nievesy Riscos Meridenos, 83246Romsdal: historical notes, 81 174Rondoy: W face, 1st asc., 83243Rope, mountaineering: tests & life

span of, 74315, 316; 75 274;78 62; 82 156; 8443, 245

Roper, S.:his books:

(editor with A. Steck & ors.)Ascent - the MountaineeringExperience in Word and Image,82262(with A. Steck) Fifty classicclimbs of North America,85257(editor with A. Steck) Ascent,90272

Rosa, Mte: ski descent of Marinellicouloir, 75 35

the Marinelli accident (1881),86218

Rosser, M.: 'Gwent AndeanExpedition 1983', 89 161

Rosso, Cima di:1st asc. by N pillar, 75 145

Rotenfels: rock-climbing, 87 139Roth, A.: his book:

Eiger, Wall of Death, 88250Rother, R.: death, 75 347Rothorn, Zinal:

1st winter asc. by E face, 78 232Rouge de Peuterey, Mt:

by new route on S face, 74 173Rouge de Rochefort, Aig.: 1st asc.

by S wall & SE an~te, 74173Rouse, A.: 'Jannu', 85 77

'Changing Values', 90 116obit. 92304

Rowe, I.: 'The North face of LesCourtes', 78 23


Ridgeway, R.: his book:The Last Step, 87 252

Ridley, N.M.: his book: Expeditionto the Sierra Nevada de Santa

Marta of Colombia, 81 265Rieffel, R.: his book:

Nepal Namaste, 89 250Ripley, B.: death, 74224

obit. 74393Rishi Gorge: 8652Risks in mountaineering: 86 4, 210Rittman, A & L:

their book: Volcanoes, 83262Rivetti, Count G.A.: obit. 84265Road building: in the Alps, 77 273Robbins, D.W.: obit. 92312Roberts, D.: his book:

The Mountain of my Fear, 75308Roberts, David: obit. 80 302Roberts, E.: 'The Grosslockner, its

climbs and pioneers', 82 189obit. 85265his books: Welzenbach's Climbs,

86254High Level Route, 90265

Roberts, M.: his book:Selected Poems and Prose, 86 252

Robertson, D.: his book:George Mallory, 74 365

Robertson, E.: obit. 81 271Robinson, B.D.:

his book: (with D. Harmon)Columbia Icefield - a Solitudeof Ice, 87 257

Robinson, M.: 'The Profit of Impurism- the Shawangunk scene', 8681

Robinson, Sir R.: obit. 81 271Robson, Mt:

2nd asc. by N face, 75 208Robson, P.: his book:

Mountains of Kenya, 75 316Roc Noir: 1st asc., 75 197Rocca Sbarua:

climbs near Turin, 86 152Roccheta Alta: ascs., 75 146Roche Melon: storm on the, 80 173Rochefort, Mt de:

1st asc. by SW face, 74 174Rock climbers:

motor aptitude of, 75282Rock climbing: in France, art. 87 75

in Britain, art. 87 175Rockies: notes & new climbs,

75 101, 208; 78247; 80236-7;82243

GENERAL INDEX 49

8521186212871588880896390 12191 19292198

Rowe, J.: his book:The Ice Experience, 88246

Rowell, G.:his books: (editor) The VerticalWorld of Yosemite, 84260

In the Throne Room of theMountain Gods, 85249

Many people come looking,looking' 86 259

Mountains of the Middle Kingdom,90258

Royal Observatory, Edinburgh:89 173

Rozes, Pilastro di:by S face direct, 75 146

Rozman, K.: 'The British, Kugy andW Slovenia', 92 182

Rubens, D.: 'The ScottishGasherbrum III Expedition',9141

Rucksack Club: 80 75-82Ruiz-Tolima Group, Colombia:

8249Rumbold, T.A.: death, 78264Russell, c.A.: 'One hundred years

ago',761757721578206792138023181220822138321184 204

Russell, Prof. I.c.:his explorations in Alaska, 81 24

Russell, J.M.: 'The National Park ofthe Western Pyrenees', 80129

(with E. Pyatt) 'MountainLandscape - the Vosges', 79 149

Russell, John:his book: (with A. Walton) Turnerin Switzerland, 83 260

Russia: notes, 74 184; 75 159Ruwenzori: new routes in, 77244

ill. art. 82 12Mt Speke traverse, 82 14Stanley Massif: Pte Albert, 82 15

Pte Margherita, 82 14 PteElizabeth, 82 15 MoebiusGlacier, 82 16 Pte Alexandra &glacier, 82 17

Mt Baker traverse, 82 20ill. colour supplement, 82 between

16 & 17

Ryan, T.: his guide: (Ireland) NewClimbs 1982, 89254

Ry]?at, P.: his book:Celenka Matky Zeme, 87260

Ryn, Z.: 'Remarks on thepersonality of Polish Climbers',7987

'Mental disturbances at highaltitudes', 80 244

SAFETY: margins of, 74 159Sahara: book on mountains of,

92271St Elias, Mt: 5th asc., 74241

attempt by E ridge & asc., 77 250climbs 1972-4, 80236climbing possibilities, ill. & map,

81 19-27Saint-Exupery, Aguja:

1st asc., 74 273St Helens, Mt:

effects of 1980 eruption, 86246St Julien, the Rocher: art. 82 144Sajama: ascs., 76 248Salbitschijen: complete traverse of

W ridge, 76 200Sa1cantay:

1st asc. by N face, 74 262by new route on S ridge, 74262height, 76 244

Sale, R.: 'Climbing - the wrongroute', 85 158

Sales, H.: 'Transcending in Devonand Cornwall', 79 145

Sales, M.: 'Greenland: TheExperience', 92 189

Saleve, Mt: 80 214Salter, J.: his book:Solo Faces, 86 256

Samivel: French mountain artist,cartoonist & writer:

ill. art. 85 59his books:Hommes, Cimes et Dieux,80293Cimes et Merveilles, 81 265L' Opera de Pies, 86 256(with S. Norande) La GrandeRonde autour du Mont Blanc,87248Samivel des Cimes, book ofmountain ills., 91 253

San Lorenzo:possible 3rd asc., 78 252

50 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92San Roman, G.: his book: Guia de

Excursionismo para Ie Cordillerade Santiago, 83246

San Valentin, Mt: 2nd asc., 75225attempt, 79 44

Sanderson, Rosemary E.: obit.85266

Sandstone towers:of the American SW desert, 84 10ill. 8410-19

Sangay: 1st asc., 86 31Sanseverino, J.:

'The Inexhaustible Alps', 89 121Sansom, G.S.: his book: Climbing at

Wasdale before the First WorldWar 88 237

Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de:expedition to, 7878

Santa Valley (Peru):earthquake disaster in, 76 241

Santander, Pico: asc., 89 78Santorini: volcanic eruption, 85 238Saraghrar: 1st asc. of Speak, 74 202

2nd asc. of central peak, 74 203ill. 74 202attempted, 83 210

Sarakyaguqi Peak: climbed, 86 14Sark:

climbing possibilities, 83 197-8Saser Kangri I: attempt, 76 224

1st asc., 79 254; 80 239Sass Maor: by E face, 74 179

1st asc. (1875), 80 232-4Sasso d'Italia, Gran: 78 124

map, 78125Sat Dag: ascs. in, 75 157Satellite mapping: 84 248Satellite pictures of mountains:

83 28-36; 86 238, 242Satopanth: attempt, 74 228Saunders, A.V.: 'British Conway's

Ogre Expedition 1980', 86 191'The British Caucasus Expedition

1986', 92 129Saussois: climbing in, 77 183Sauvy, Anne: 'La Fourche', 90 127

her book: Les Flammes de Pierre,88238

Savenc, F.: 'The South Face ofDhaulagiri', 88 181

Sayan Mts: meet in, 75 164Sayle, M.: 'Everest - a Reporter's

View'. 77 116

Saysse-Tobiczyka, K.: .his book (editor): W Skakach I

Lodah Swiata. Himalaje-Karakorum, 84261

Scandinavia:practice crags in, 78 119ski-ing in, 83 91-7

Scerscen, Piz:1st asc. (1877), 82 219

Schaller, G.: his book: Stones ofSilence, 87 257; 88 250

Schindlbacher, H.: 'Malubiting -snow peak above desertvalleys', 78 53

Schipper, R.: 'The unconqueredSouth face of Huandoy', 79 139

Schlick, A.: death, 7920Schneider, J.: 'Climbing in the Black

Forest', 84 142'Siidpfalz (South Palatinate)',

85209'Nordeifel', 86 153'Rotenfels', 87 139'The Bruchhauser Steine', 88 130

Schreckenback, K.: (with P. vonGizycki) 'Dhaulagiri III', 80 198

Schreckhorn: an ascent, 88 172Schreebeli, W.:

his book: (with F. Rothlisberger)8000 Jahre WalliserGletschergeschichte, 85 253

Schulman, M.:his book: (with others)

Fontainebleau escalades etrandonnees, 89 245

Schwabe, U.: 'Noshaq on skis',77110

Schwartz, G.T.: obit. 90281Schwartz, K.: 'Advance and retreat

of Alpine Glaciers', 79 75Science notes (cover such subjects as

climatology, glaciology, biology,physiology, geology, zoology etc.)

77269 8325078259 8424679268 8523880279 8623881253 8722782251 88221

Scotland: notes, 74 288new climbs, 80 275winter climbs 1981-83, art. 89216winter climbs 1985-86, art. 92 229

Scott, A.J.: obit. 87 261

GENERAL INDEX 51Scott, D.: 'A big leaning wall - Cima

Dvest in Photos', 75 59'Mount Asgard', 7885'Changabang', 80 155(with D. Haston) 'The South Face

of Mt McKinley 1976', 82173'Dougal Haston - a tribute', 83 132(with M. English) 'The Anglo-

Indian Gangotri Sanctuaryexpedition', 87 3

'Multi Peak - Alpine Style', 9088'Excursions & Climbs from the

Karakoram Highway', 91 46his books: Big Wall Climbing,

80250(with A. McIntyre) TheShishapangma Expedition,91243

Scott, M.: 'The North by North-Westroute on Du Toits Peak', 77 94

'The Sword and others', 78 195'Toverkop (Witch's Head)', 7999'At the eleventh hour', 805'The Cedarbergen', 81 128'Events and Trends 1974-76 South

Africa', 82 227'A Mountaineer's History of Table

Mountain', 83 120'Baffin Island adventure', 83 153'Modern hard climbing in South

Africa', 85 182'The South African Cordillera

Blanca Expedition 1982', 88 173'South African Rock Climbing',

88203'Africa 1983 - South African Rock

Climbing', 89 228'South Africa 1985', 91 223'South Africa 1986', 92 233

Scott, R.: 'British Central HinduKush Expedition 1971', 77 170

Scroggie, S.: collected poems:Give me the Hills, 90267

Scull, R.: death, 78 204Sea stacks: 79 47Sea-cliff climbing:

in Cornwall, art. 87 67generally, art. 83 191

Searle, M.: 'Langtang Lirung SouthFace 1980', 88 106

Secor, J.: his book:Mexico's Volcanoes, 87258

Secord, C.H.: obit. 86271

Secreast, D.:his book: (with C. Frazier)Adventuring in the Andes,91252

Sefton, Mt:1st asc. by E face direct, 77 226

Seigneur, Y.: his book: A laConquete de ['Impossible, 85253

Seligman, G.: death, 79279Selkirks: ascs. in, 74 242; 76 239

generally, art. 78 1Sella Pass: crossed, 78 140Sella, V.: his book: Dal Caucaso al

Himalaya, 88225catalogue of his photographs,

89250Semyen:

ref. to new map of High, 74 182Sentiers de Grande Randonnee, les:

guide books, 78 268Sentilo, Pico:

1st asc. by W face, 75 211Sentinel, the (NW Karakoram):

asc., 76 167Seoul: climbing near, 83 55Sesiajoch: crossings of, 82 256Setnesfjell:

by new routes on SE face, 76 191Shachiokun Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216Shadbolt, L.G.:

obit. 79274; 80 302-3Shahgologh Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216Shai-i-Anjuman: 1st asc., 74 195Shakhaur: 1st asc. by N buttress,

75 175Shani Snow Dome: attempt, 76 165Sharp, P.: 'Some Swiss mountain

railways', 77 129'Tunnels through the Alps', 84 122

Shawangunk (E coast of USA):climbs, 86 81

Shchurovsky, Pik: by N face,centenary climb, 76 114

Sheldon, J.H.: obit. 78290Shepherd, E.: 'The Calanques',

77185'Montagne Sainte-Victoire', 80 189'A first impression of Biokova',

81203Sheridan, G.:

'Across Zagros on skis', 83 102'Some 4000 metre peaks of

Southern Iran', 84 187'A Winter Journey through the

Western Himalaya', 87 167

52 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Sheridan, G.:

'Yukon - a Winter Excursion',91120

Sheridan, J.M.G.:'Winter Climbing in Lyngen',

8067Sherlock Holmes, mountaineer:

8399Sherman, P.: 'Huascanin: the W

AfI~te 1969', 75 131Sherpas: and ski-ing, art. 91 101Shiga I and II: ascs., 78 240Shimbun, A: (compiler) book: The

Magnificence of the Himalaya,84261

Shingeik Zorn II and III:1st ascs., 75 172

Shipton, E.E.: his book: ThatUntravelled World, 75 294

'Mount Burney', 80 1obit. 83271his Six Mountain Travel Books,

91245Shipton: in the steps of, art.

(in the Garhwal), 84 154Shirakawa, Y.: his books:

Alps, 76106Himalayas, 82264; 85253

Shisha Pangma: account of Germanexpedition to, 1980, 88244

Shispare: summit reached, 80 224Shivling: climbed, 80 240; 87 4Sia Kangri: climbed, 80 152

ill., 80 150Siachen: expedition to, 1985, art.

91 19Sikkim: area notes, 82241

new climbs & notes, 83 240Silvretta Pass: crossed, 74 84Sinai: mountains of, 77 160; 80 145Siran I: 1st asc., 78 187Siran II: asc., 78 186Sircar, J.: his book: The Himalayan

Handbook, 81 265; 85 254'Oropolitics', 8974

Sisne: attempt & accident on, 83 78Ski-ing:

from Austria to France, 7483extreme ski descents, 74 349;

75 31, 33, 38; 76 192; 85 218early, in Scotland, 76 279British Alpine traverse 1972, 78 13resorts in the Alps, 78 267mountaineering, 75 124; 8391,

102; 85 176; 8720; 88 33,92;90 193

Ski-ing:in the Western Himalaya, 87 167in Kashmir, 87 222in China, 88 29and Sherpas, 91 101

Slatter, Enid M.:'Mont Blanc Bi-centenary', 91 150

Sleeman, C.M.: death, 77 296obit. 78290

Sleeping-bags: paper, 76278Sleeping-pad: new waterproof,

74323Slovakia: climbing areas, 82 79Smith, C.D. & G.A:

their book: The ArmchairMountaineer, 74 376

Smith, F.E.: obit. 88259Smith, R.: 'Mountaineering in

Iceland - a personal appraisal',86119

his book (editor): The WindingTrail, 87 254

Smith, W.P. Haskett: his book:Climbing in the British Isles,

92264Smythe, A.: 'Excursions to Bara

Bangahal and Lahul', 78 179Smythe, F.S.:

books on, 81 180; 91 249Smythe, Nona: 'Francis Sydney

Smythe: mountain photographer(1900-49)', 81 180

Snailham, R.: his book:Sangay survived, 85251

Snellgrove, D.: his book:Himalayan Pilgrimage, 89239

Snoswell, D.M.: 'The Sierra Nevadade Santa Marta', 78 78

Snow-caves: in New Zealand, 74 79Snow-crystals: note on, 79274Snowdonia: despoilment of, 78 268SOderberg, E.A Bo:

'Mountaineering in Sweden', 77 54'Haggsta', 77 187

Solar energy: giant furnace in thePyrenees, 84 201

Solari, Mary Elizabeth: obit. 92298Solimana, Nevado: history & 1st asc.

of highest summit, 76 244Somervell, T.R.: obit. 81272Sondheimer, E.: 'Local knowledge is

important: How not to crossfrom Rhum to Skye', 88 77

Editor of Alpine Journal, 91 298;929

53GENERAL INDEX

Stelbox, D.:his book: (with C. Torrans) RockClimbing in Ireland, 91 261

Step-cutting: early, 76 280; 80 277Stephen, L.:

centenary tribute to, 77 1Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 167

Steuri, E.:mountain guide, death, 77 297

Steven, c.R.: his books: The CentralHighlands, 74381

The Story of the Scottish Hills81267

Stighorn:1st asc. by SW buttress, 74 172

Stirling Range (W Australia):climbs in, 79 30

Stobart, R.E.: obit. 85 267Stocken, C.M.: his book: Andalusianflowers and Countryside, 74 378

Stor Skagast0lstind: centenary climb,82233; 83 109-11

Strand magazine: mountains in,84144

Strath, Sir W.: obit. 81 274Stretchers: motorised, 74 312

comparison of mountain rescue,74314

Strutt, E.L.: his rescue of AustrianEmperor, 74343

Stubaierspitze: 1st asc., 79 17Stubbs, P.: 'Science Notes':

197581 253; 1976 82 25; 197783250

Stuck, H.: his book:The Ascent of Denali, 84 257

Sturm, G.: his book:Erfolg am Kantsch, 82264; 84261

Styles, S.: his books:Backpacking, a comprehensive guideBackpacking in Alps and Pyrenees,

82260Sucai Zorn: asc., 74 203Siidpfalz: climbing area, 85 209Summers, G.: obit. 78292Summerton, Capt. R.: obit. 81 270Sun Kosi river:

jet-boat expedition to, 74 233Sunday Peak (Carstensz):

1st & solo asc. by N face, 78 193Sundt, E.: obit. 79 285Surgy: climbs at, 83 143Sutton, J.: 'Medical problems of

high altitude', 78 153Swabian Alps: 80 211

Sondre Trolltind: 2nd asc. ofHoibakk's chimney', 76 191

Sonnier, G.: his book:La Montagne et ['Homme, 76309

Soray (Humantay):new route by S ridge, 74262

Sosbun Glacier: explorations, 91 49map, 91 50

South America: notes & new climbs:81245 8820883243 8922485228 9023786231 9121887224 92226

M.E.F. note, 92 239South Atrak Zorn:

correct name of, 75 169South Greenland: new climbs,

80271South Parbati Range:

expedition to & ascs., 79 121South Pembroke:

rock climbing hazards, 90 148ill. 90 144-5

South West Africa:events & trends 1974-76, 82232

South West England:new climbs, 80 273

Soviet mountaineering: 80 89Space science:

recent developments, 83 252Spain: area notes & new climbs,

74 179; 87 216Spitzmeilen: asc., 74 84Spring, I.:

his book: (with H. Edwards) 100Hikes in the Alps, 85252

Stamps: covers & cachets fromNepal Himalaya, art. 85 110

Starkey, G.: obit. 80 301Staunings Alps: art. 81 143Steck, A.:

his book: (with S. Roper) Ascent,86260

Steel, D.: death, 78204Steele, Mt: by SE ridge, 74 242Steele, P.: 'Pierre Vergez', 81 55

his books: Two and two halves toBhutan, 76 307Medical Care for MountainClimbers, 82263

Stefan, W.: 'ChitraI1971', 78 183'Kaghan 1972', 78 185'Sia Kangri (7422m) 1974Diary',

80151'Huandoy - Chopicalqui', 82 165

54 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Swargarohini: 1st asc., 80 197

map, 80195Swat Kohistan: ascs. in, 76218Swat-Chitral watershed:

account of travel in, 82 161Swaziland:

events & trends 1974-76, 82232Sweden: mountaineering in, 77 54

map, 77 55Swift, H.: his book: The Trekkers

guide to the Himalaya andKarakoram 88246

Swindin, Barbara:'Perpetual second', 85 102

Swiss Alpine Club: book: Nos Carte5Nationales, a history of map-

making in Switzerland, 8S 254Swiss National Tourist Office: book:

Sights and Scenes of Switzerland,85253

Switzerland: notes, 74 176-91971 British ascs. in central,

77 241in the 18th century, art. 8657

Sword, the (Patagonia):1st asc., 78 196

TABLE MOUNTAIN:history of, 83 120-7; 85 182-9ill. 83 120

Tafelberg: 81 129Tafonato, Capo: traversed, 74 180Tah Ratum: 1st asc., 83 237Tairono, Pico: asc., 7882Tairraz, G. (fils): 'The Tairraz

family of Chamonix', 80 161Takahashi, A.:

'Manaslu West Wall 1971', 77 26Takushi, Y.: his book:

Gurja Hima11969, 76 310Talbot, 1.0.: his book:

Central Switzerland, 75 315Talefre, Aig. de: 1st asc., 84 207Tambillos, Nevado:

Indian remains on, 76 248Tan Hill Inn: 80 79Tangley, Lord: obit. 79286Tanner, Col. C.H.B.: Victorian

surveyor-artist, art. 83 12Tapes: breaking strain of, 80 278Tararua, Cerro: asc., 75 225Tiischhorn-Dom traverse: 85 106-7Tasermiut fjord: 74 284Tashi Lapcha La: crossed, 86 99

Tasker, 1.: 'Techniques andequipment for winter ice', 81 48

'Small expeditions', 8221'Kangchenjunga North Ridge

1979', 8549his books: Everest the Cruel Way,

87259Savage Arena, 88230

loss of, 88 263obit. & port. 88 270

Tasman, Mt: ascs., 74 237ill. 8262

Tasmania: mountains, 86 17sea cliffs, 86 27map, 8618

Tasuit Tower: ill. 83 152attempted, 83 153-8

Tatra:visit to the Slovak High, 74 95British alpinists in the, 79 153;

80286ill. art. 81 121description of, 82 81ill. 82 81-2, 233notes on traverse of main ridge,

82233Taurus Mts: notes, 7S 151

description of, 76 119Taweche: 1st & 2nd ascs. of Basa's

Gully, 77 11Tayapampa: 2nd asc., 74248Taylor, C.H.:

'Alpine Thunderstorms', 80 173obit. 81 274

Taylor, E.E.T.: death, 77 296obit. 78293

Taylor, 1.L.: obit. 84 265Taylor, R.:

his book: The Breach, 91 246Techado Negro: 2nd asc., 74 274Temple, 1.:

his book: (with A. Walker)Kirinyaga, 80 291

Temple, P.:his book: Castles in the Air, 89249

Tenerife: 89 174Tenzing, Dawa:

obit. & port. 91 270Tenzing, Norgay: his book: After

Everest, 83 265obit. 92287

Terijuay group:climbing notes & map, 74 264ill. 74 268-9

Terrordactyl: note, 76274

GENERAL INDEX 55Teton, Grand: by N face, 77 157

by Black Ice Couloir, 77 158Teves, M.C.: obit. 88256Thamserku: 89 47

W ridge, 89 189Thank God glacier: 74 282Tharkot: attempts, 75 195

art. 90 100; map, 90 101ill. following 90 104

Theobald, E.L.: obit. 90281Theodulpass: history of, 75 87Thesiger, W.: his book: Desert,Marsh and Mountain, 87 251

Thexton, P.: obit. & port. 89249Thompson, A.J.: his book:Ortler Alps, 74 380

Thompson, B.: 'Two new routes inRomsdal: Kongen and

Mongejura', 74150Thompson, C.W.H.: obit. 75338Thompson, Silvanus: alpine painter,

art. 81 116Thomson, Sir L.: obit. 83 273Thornhill, P.:

'The Big Triple Tick', 92 165Thorpe, T.A.: obit. 89258Three Peaks yacht race: 86 236Thui I & II: correct hts. of, 74 216;

76216Thui II:

attempt from Shetor glacier,75179

climbed, 84 58ill. 8459, 62; map, 8460

Thunderstorms & lightning:behaviour in, 80 174, 183

Tibet: exploration in, 8784-6table of mountains, 87 97-9topography, art. 91 84; map, 91 85asc. of Tibet's highest peak, art.

92104Tieing-on: standardized method of,

for mountain centres, 74338Tierra del Fuego: expeditions to,

85141maps, 85 140, 143

Tilman, H.W.: his books: Ice withEverything, 81263Triumph & Tribulation, 83263

selected writings: Adventuresunder Sail, 88 236The Seven Mountain TravelBooks, 89 238

a tribute, 84 132

Tiquimani, Cordillera Real:1st asc. of W ridge, 83245

Tirich Mir: 4th asc., 75 81, 165Japanese attempt from N, 75 166asc. by Spanish expedition, 79199,

254; ill. 79 199, 2001st asc. listed, 89 186book: Sette Anni Contra II Tirich,

history of mountaineering &exploration in region, 84263

Tirone, A.:his book: (with L. Bersezio) MontBlanc, 90266

Tobias, M.:his book: (editor with H. Drasdo)The Mountain Spirit, 85255

Tocclaraju, Nevado: asc., 7443Tofana di Mezzo, Pta Anna: 1st asc.

by SW diedre (via Julian), 76202Tombazi, N.A.: obit. 92296T0nsberg, H.: obit. 92 302Torasan: climbed, 86 162Toro, Colle el: 1st crossing, 75 4Toro, El: attempt by W face, 76 143Torrans, C.:

his book: (with D. Stelfox) RockClimbing in Ireland, 91 261

Torre Cerredo: 86 172Torre, Cerro: cancellation of French

1958 expedition, 74274Torre di Brenta: 1st asc., 87 162Torrone Peaks (Bregaglia):

1st ascs., 87 167Tortolas, Cerro: discovery of Indian

remains on, 74 273Totem Pole, Monument Valley:

8413Toubkal massif:

new ascs., 75 148; 76 204Tour, Col du: crossed, 7490Toverkop: history of, 7999Town, J.: 'Back in the USSR',

86126'Ararat Revisited', 89 145'In the Altai', 90 47

Towne, F.: mountain painter, 85 38Townshend, E.V.: death, 75285

obit. 76336Trango: attempt, 8145; ill. 81 46

art. 82 184climbed, 82 184, 237main tower, 1st asc., 83 237

Trans-Alai Pamir:Polish expedition to, 75 162new climbs, 80 263

56 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Transcending:

in Devon & Cornwall, 79 145Transvaal:

events & trends 1974-76, 82232Tremonti, M.: 'The first ascent of

Parvati Peak, Kulu 1968', 7553Trevanian: his book:

The Eiger Sanction, 80 291Triglav: ill. 82 94Triolet, Aig. de: by N face, 74 175Trisul: ascs., 74229; 76226

1st asc. of S face, 83 238Japanese expedition to, 85 193map, 85195

Tritton, N.P.:'The Ascent of Thui II', 84 58

Trivor: 1st asc. listed, 89 185Trollope, A.: mention of Alpine

Club in his novel Can youForgive her, 74342

Trollryggen:ascs. of E pillar, 74 172by Rimmon route, 76 190by French route, 76 191winter asc. of N face, 81 172

Trolltind wall:'Archwall' 1st asc., 78233

Trono Blanco (Patagonia):1st asc., 75 236

Truuli Peak (Kenai Range):1st asc., 74243

Tscherner, Dr von: obit. 90289Tuchal: ski asc., 75 157Tuckett Hut, Dauphine:

re-opening as museum, 92 317Tufnell, L.: his book:

Glacier Hazards, 90265Tukucha (Tukche):

1st authorised asc., 75 197asc. of W peak, 76 229early ascs., 79 191attempt, 79 194; ill. 79 193

Tullis, Julie:mentioned in art., 89 18(with K. Diemberger) 'A Sortie on

Broad Peak', 90 54her book: Clouds from Both Sides,

92268Tunnels, in the Alps: art. 84 122

note, 86247Tunuyan Valley (Andes):

ascs. in, 75 223Tunzelmann, von, N.: 'Recent New

Zealand Developments', 74 71Tupungato: asc., 74 273

Turin CA.!.: 'Climbs near Turin -Denti di Cumiana', 87 137

Turkey: new climbs, 80 263accident & rescue in, 86 165mountaineering in, 92 140-5

Turmelle, R.:'A mile in the sky', 8734

Turnbull, R.: 'Northern Norway - apersonal view', 87 46

Turner, J.M.W.: Alpine painter,ill. arts. 84 31; 8541

Turner, L.: his book: (with J. Ash)The Golden Hordes, 82261

T.V.: climbing films on, 86256Tyrol: by-ways of South, 74 343Tyson, Diana: 'Fortunat Enderlin -

letters to a Client', 90 201'Climbing in the Swiss Alps 1893',

92176Tyson, J.:

'Return to Kanjiroba', 75 114'Exploring Bhutan's North-West',

83183Tyssen-Gee, R.: obit. 89 271

UCCELLO, PIZZO D': asc., 78 129Udren Zorn: 1st asc. of Speak,

74200asc. from W, 77 2461st asc. of Central peak, 83 237

Uganda: new climbs, 80260Uhrig, Dr J.: (with Dr P. Dawson)

'Sherpas & Sickness', 89 80U.LA.A.: meeting of Commission

de Material de Securite, 743161968Assembly, 74359election of new President, 74 360meeting in Prague, 75290meet of young alpinists in

Belgium, 75 290notes, 76 297standard for climbing equipment,

8523650th Anniversary Celebrations,

8855book: De Chamonix a Kathmandu

(the first 50 years ofU.I.A.A.) 88247

Ullman, J.R.: his book:And not to Yield, 76310

Ulugh Muztagh: Tibet's highest peakascended, 92 104

Underhill, Miriam:climbing career, 82 112-3; 83 81obit. 82272

57

WADDINGTON, MT:1st winter asc., 75 207

VAILL, E.E.:'Mountaineering in China', 90 23

Valais: new climbs, 87 212Valette, L.G.: 'The phenomenon of

14th July on the Cervin', 85 97Valla, F.:

his book: (with J-P Zuanon)Pamir, 82262

Vallepiana, Count U. di: obit.84270

Valuga: asc., 75 124Vancouver, Mt:

asc. of S peak by SW ridge, 74 242Vatna J6kull:

1st crossing 1875, 80 234ski-touring possibilities, 86 122

Vaud: outcrops in, art. 84 141Venables, Ann:

'Ski-touring at fifty', 88 92Venables, S.: 'Some climbs in Peru

and Bolivia', 88 44

GENERAL INDEX

Underhill, R.L.M.: obit. 89266 Venables, S.:United States: new climbs & notes: 'West of the Baltoro, a Personal

83242; 84235; 85 227; 86 230 Appraisal', 88194University reading parties: 80 285 'Kishtwar-Shivling', 89 30Unsoeld, Nanda Devi: death, 82239 'Finsteraarhorn, a WinterUnsoeld, W.: obit. 85268 Expedition', 89 129Unsworth, W.: his books: 'India 1983. The IndianThe Book of Rock Climbing, Himalaya - An Historic

74 370 Appraisal', 89 208North Face, the second conquest of 'Autumn in Shimshal and Naltar',the Alps, 75309 9064

Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering, (with D. Wilkinson) 'Siachen81 266; 83 264 Expedition 1985', 91 19

Everest, 87245 his book: Painted Mountains,(editor) Peaks, Passes and 92255Glaciers, 87251 Venezuela:

This Climbing Game, 90277 triennial report 1971-73, 79228Classic Walks of the World, events & trends 1974-76, 82220

91262 new climbs, 84237Savage Snows. The Story of Mont the Sierra Nevada de Merida, art.Blanc, 92 260 92 20

Unwin, D.J.: his book: Mountain Ventoux, Mt: art. 83128-32Weather for Climbers, 84260 Venus: surface topography, 87229

Urgunt (Urgend): Verdon Gorge: climbing in, 832342nd asc. by Swiss route, 75 178 Veron, G.: his book: Haute

Urubamba, Cordillera: Randonm?e Pyrem?enne, 80291Irish expedition to, 74262 Verte, Aig.: ski descent of Whymperascs. in, 76 244; 77 253 Couloir, 74 349

Urus, Nevado: asc., 7443 Veyret, P. & G.: their book: Atlas etUshko Zorn: 1st asc., 74 203 Geographie de la FranceUzum Brakk (Conway's Ogre): Moderne - Les Alpes Francais,

attempt, 86 191 86 260Vibrams: origin of, 74 324; 75 274Viereselgrat: 87 15, 64Vignemale: 80 135Vilcabamba, Cordillera de:

NZ expedition to Pumasillo area,74257

ascs. in, 74 260; 76 243; 78 83Vilcanota, Cordillera de:

ascs. in, 75 219; 76 245; 77 253Villar, R.: 'Everest North Face-

a Doctor's View', 90 110Viso, Monte: 1st asc. from NE,

86213Vogler"R.: his book:Les Etats Unis, 90 277

Volcanic eruptions:forecasting of, 84 247

Vosges: description of & climbs in,79149

Vychodny Vysoka: traversed, 74 100


Wade, H.W.R.:'A visit to Japan', 81 59

Wadi Rum: mountains in Jordan,art. 91109

Wainwright, A.W.: his book FellWalking with Wainwright, 90275

Wakhan Gol: 1st ascs. around,76215

art. & climbing possibilities, 84 36Wala, J.: 'Routes leading to Pik

Kommunizma', 78 173Wales: notes, 74295; 80274

Welsh Rock, book on history ofWelsh rock-climbing, 92257

Wales, Prince of, H.R.H.: his book:The Old man of Lochnagar,

88 243Walker, J.P.: death, 75285

obit. 76337Walker, Lucy:

climbing career, 81 93-4Walker Spur:

art. 'The Big Triple Tick', 92 165Walkers' Guidebooks:

The Munros, 92256The High Mountains of Britain and

Ireland, 92 256Walters, B.: his book:

Piste Again, 90 264Waltham, A.C.: his book:

The World of Caves, 86259Walton, A.:

his book: (with J. Russell) Turnerin Switzerland, 83 260

Wangyal's Peak (Bara Bangahal):1st asc., 78 180ascended, 7922, 27

Wannehorn, Gross: asc., 75 128Ward, E.D.: obit. 88256Ward, M.: 'Man and the Mountain

environment', 74 133'Frost-bite', 76 70his books: In this Short Span,

78270 Mountain Medicine,81231

'Mountain literature - then andnow',8115

'Exercise oedema & mountainsickness', 85 168

'The Kongur Massif in SouthernXinjiang', 86 7

'Science on Mount Kongur', 87 65'The Eastern Himalaya', 90 10

Ward-Drummond, E.: 'Out of themidday sun: the Lost ArrowChimney', 74 92

Warren, c.:'A Whymper Pilgrimage', 84 175'An Alpine Bibliographical

Curiosity', 89 141'The Children's Corner in the AC

Library', 91 145(with P. Bicknell) 'Homage to

J.M.W. Turner', 91161Washington, Mt:

climbing history, art. 87 34Watanabe, H.: death, 76229Water: drinking, on expeditions,

74326Waterberg Mts: ascs. in, 75 71Waterfalls, climbing on frozen:

8360,242Waterman, J.: his book:

Surviving Denali, 90 266Watson, A.: (with others) his book:

The Cairngorms, 74381Watson, Sir N., Bt: obit. 89272Watts, N.H.L.: obit. 75339Weber, K.: death, 79279

obit. & port. 80 303Webster, E.:

'North American Assortment',90 153

Wegener, A.: meteorologist,8043, 62

Weibel, M.: his book: DieMineralien der Schweiz, 85252

Weissfluh: ski descent, 75 125Welch, Ann: her book: Accidents

happen - Anticipation, Avoidance,Survival, 84 260

Wenck, R.: death, 75347West Irian (New Guinea):

notes, 82241Western Cape:

events & trends 1974-76, 82 227Westmacott, Sally:

'The Obsessional Journey', 90 193Westmorland, Lt.Col. H.: obit.

90 291Wetterhorn: an asc. in 1884, 86 118

an early winter asc., 86 212Whalley, E.: Canadian Arctic &

Alaska, notes: 89221; 91215;92223

Wheaton, A.: 'Brammah 1978',84 103

'The British Kishtwar Himalayanexpedition 1979', 86 181

Whillans, D.: quoted, 86205obit. & port. 91 273

GENERAL INDEX 59

Whillans box: construction & usesof, 74 324; 76 278

Whitehouse, Millicent: obit. 90 285Whiteley, E.J.: obit. 91281Whittow, J.: his book: Disasters -the Anatomy of EnvironmentalHazards, 86257

Whymper: his 'crosses in the sky'art. 8597

a pilgrimage, art. 84 175Whyte, J.S.:

'The Ladder of Life', 86 110Wiedman, M.: poem 'Ultima Thule

Everest', 92 98Wielicki, K.: 'Broad Peak climbed in

one day', 90 61Wiesbachhorn, Gross:

ski descent of NW face, 75 34Wife Peak (Hindu Kush):

1st asc., 75 166Wilberforce, W.: his diary: Journeyto the Lake District fromCambridge 1979, 90 270

Wilberforce Smith, B.:'Bernina Bummel', 78 139

Wilderness areas: in Britain, 79 274Wildspitze: ski asc., 75 127Wilkinson, D.: (with S. Venables)

'Siachen Expedition 1985', 9119Williams, Cicely: her book: Women

on the Rope, 79251'The Feminine Share in Mountain

Adventure', 81 90; 82 103;8379

obit. 91285Williams, H.: obit. 77 293Williams, P.: his book:Snowdonia Rock Climbs, 88 250

Williams, R.: obits. 85 268; 86 271Willis, Phyllida: 'Ti}e Appalachian

Trail Pt. 2', 88 118Wilmott, A.: death, 78 264, 281Wilson, Jim: his book: Aorangi: thestory of Mount Cook, 74 374

Wilson, John: 'A long Haute Route1968: from Austria to France onSki', 7483

his book: (with D. Hope) WyeValley, 83 248

Wilson, K.: his books:Hard Rock, 80 249Classic Rock, 84 257(editor) Games Climbers Play,

85248(with R. Gilbert) The Big Walks,

Wilson, K.: his books:86 253

(compiler with R. Gilbert) ClassicWalks, 88 234

(with D. Alcock & J. Barry) ColdClimbs, 89 244

Wilson, M.H.: obit. 92293Wilton, A.: his book: William Pars.Journey through the Alps, 85255

Wind chill: 86 139Wind River Range: 1st ascs., 83 217Winds:

effect in mountains, art. 81 81Winkler, J.:

his book: (with W. Pause) 100Sealate Estreme, 85 253

Winter, J.: 'A field study of acutemountain sickness', 81217

Winter climbing: in 1971-72, 788in New Zealand, 78244

Winter Sports statistics: 83 257Wiren, S.A.: death, 77 272Wojcik, W.A.: his book: Wierchy -The Jubilee Issue, 91 251

Wolf, J.: his book: Reka JmenemCervanky (River of Dawn), 82264

Wolfe, J.:his book: (with B. Dominick) AClimbers Guide to Joshua TreeNM, 83242

Women:highest summits climbed by,

75173Women climbers:

arts. 81 90; 82 103; 83 79Woodgate, Amy: death, 74 396Wookey Hole: diving in, 83 172Worthington, W.G.: obit. 88256Wroe, Marjory: 'With young folks

on the Haute Route', 87 20Wroe, S.: his book:Rock Climbing, 85 255

Wyllie, P.J.: his book: The Way theEarth works - an introduction tothe New Global Geology and itsRevolutionary Development,82263

Wyn-Harris, Sir P.:obit. & port. 87 270

Wyss-Dunant, Dr. E.: obit. 89262

YAKUSHI, Y.: 'Gurja Himal: firstascent 1969', 75 17

TO VOLUMES 74-92

ZAGROS MOUNTAINS:ski-ing in, 83 102pipeline, 86241

Zanskar:a journey through, art. 88 139

Zapelli, C.: his book: SulleMontagne degli Incas, 86255

Zawada, A.: his book (with others):Gipfelsturm in Karakorum,84261

'Noshaq in winter', 79 11'Winter at 8,250 metres', Polish

expedition to Lhotse 1974,8228

'Mount Everest, the first winterascent', 89 50

Zermatt: centenary of the EnglishChurch, 75 279

development of, 81 262-3Zhang, R.: his book:

Mount Qomolangma - the highestin the world, 89 250

Zocca, Piz: 1st asc. of WSWantecima by ESE ridge, 74 177

art. 75 48-52Zoology: see Science NotesZuanon, J.-P.: 'An invitation to

Mont Aiguille', 80 83'The Chartreuse', 82 120his book: (with F. Valla) Pamir,

82262Zululand: 87 111-13Zurcher, A.: obit. & port. 85269

INDEX

Yalung Kang: 1st asc., 8025new route, 81 2421973 Kyoto University Expedition,

82264Yamamoto Ryozo: 'First Ascent of

Churen Himal', 77 105Yamnuska: climbs on, 75 104Yarigatake: 8161-2Yeld, G.: Editor of A.J., 80120-7Yerupaja: 1st asc. of N summit,

7411main & S summits ascended,

7412, 13traverse, 74 13, 141st asc. & descent by NE face,

74151st asc. by a woman, 74 12climbing history, 742531st asc. by E ridge, 75 2121st asc. by S face, 83 243

Yerupaja Chico:1st asc. by SW face, 75 212

Yeti:reports, 80 101; 83256; 84254

Yomemoto, T.: death, 76229Yorkshire: new climbs, 80275Yosemite: ascs. in, 74 242; 76 239;

78 247; 80237climbing, arts. 74 92, 125

Yoshizawa, 1.:'Mountaineering in Japan', 79128

Young, J. & G.W.:'Norwegian Centenary', 83 109

Yugoslavia: see JugoslaviaYukon: climbing history, 83 25-8

new climbs, 85 226a winter excursion, art. with

photos, 91 120Yukon river: descent of, 74 244

60

SPECIAL DISTRICTS

GENERAL INDEX 61

A list of articles and maps (but not Regional or Area notes) whichdescribe mountain areas and expeditions, explorations or climbs in them.

EUROPE1. British IslesSea Stacks. By J.S. Cleare, 7947Transcending in Devon and Cornwall. By H. Sales, 79 145Moorland Marathons. By P. Brockbank, 8071From Zero to Astronomy. By A. Fyffe, 80185In Quest of the Ultimate. By F. Rogerson, 81 40The Napes Pinnacle. By W.P. Haskett-Smith, 8153Cragwork in Cumberland. By W.P. Haskett-Smith, 8242Mountaineering in Winter. Some expeditions in the Lake District.

By H.A. Gwynne, 84 177Mountaineering in Ireland. By J.P.O'F. Lynam, 85 162Avalanche on Ben Nevis. By J. King, 86 146Games in a private world. (Sea cliff climbing in Cornwall) By M. Fowler, 87 67Loc?1 Knowledge is Important. How not to cross from Rhum to Skye.

By E. Sondheimer, 88 77Cold Climbing in Cymru. By J. Barry, 89165South Pembroke Hazards. By R. Brown, 90 148Winter Climbing on Beinn an Dothaidh. By K. Crocket, 91 129Maps:

The Peak and South Pennines, 80 70

2. FranceCorsica. By T. Connor, 78 144Mountain landscape - the Jura. By E. Pyatt & M. Brandt, 78 146Mountain landscape - the Vosges. By E. Pyatt & J. Russell, 79149An invitation to Mont AiguilIe. By J.-P. Zuanon, 8083Montagne Saint-Victoire. By E. Shepherd, 80 189The Chartreuse. By J.-P. Zuanon, 82 120Mont Ventoux. By M. Craig, 83 128The Calanques. By A. Lucchesi, 85 21Corsica mountains. By R.G. Collomb, 87 100Maps:

The Calanques, 85 24-5Corsica, 87 101The Cinto Massif, 87 102

3. ScandinaviaTwo new routes in Romsdal: Kongen and Mongejura. By B. Thompson, 74150Mountaineering in Sweden. By E.A. Bo Soderberg, 77 54Winter Climbing in Lyngen. By J.M.G. Sheridan, 8067Trollryggen North Face in Winter. By T. Piotrowski, 81172Scandinavian Ski trave'rse. By A. Blackshaw, 8390Norwegian Centenary. By J. & G. Winthrop Young, 83 109

62 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92Northern Norway - a personal view. By R. Turnbull, 8746Maps:

Scandinavian Ski traverse, 83 90North Norway, 8746

4. CaucasusBritish-Soviet Caucasus Expedition. By H. McInnes, 76 111Back in the USSR. By J. Town, 86 126The International Mountaineering Camp 1984. By D.J. Broadhead, 92 122The British Caucasus Expedition 1986. By A.V. Saunders, 92 129

5. TatrasA flying visit to the Slovak High Tatra. By 1. Clough, 74 95British Alpinists in the Tatra. By A. Kus, 79 153The Tatra Mountains. By M. Brniak, 81 119

6. TurkeyThe Taurus Mountains. By H. Elwood, 76 119Turkey 1980. Torasan, Kackar and Mountain Rescue. By S. Nowill, 86 159Ararat Revisited. By J. Town, 89 145Olympian Triad. By J.G.R. Harding, 92 141Maps:

Taurus Mountains, 76 119

7. The Pyrenees and SpainThe National Park of the Western Pyrenees. By J.M. Russell, 80 129Pierre Vergez. By P. Steele, 81 55A progress in Pyreneisme. By K. Reynolds, 84 21Cirques and canons of the Pyrenees. By J.G.R. Harding, 86 71The Picos de Europa. By L.c. Baume, 86 171Across the High Pyrenees. By K. Reynolds, 88 145Not the Accursed Mountain. By K. Reynolds, 89 84Twenty-four hours in Trevelez. By L. Griffin, 89 116A very Proper Enthusiasm. By K. Reynolds, 90 166Short of the Folding Stuff. By T. Price, 91 183Packe of the Pyrenees. By K. Reynolds, 92 156Maps:

The National Park of the Western Pyrenees, 80 138Sierra Nevada, 89 119

8. Other DistrictsThe 1971 eruption of Mount Etna. By B. Booth, 7766Pindos Range: Timfi Massif. By R. Fedden, 78 25In Terra de Romagne. By A. Heppenstall, 78 121Recent activity on Mount Etna. By B. Booth, 78 137A first impression of Biokova. By E. Shepherd, 81 203Mountains and Rocks in Czechoslovakia. By J. Jurak, 8273The Julian Alps - Kugy's Kingdom. By H. Brown, 82 95Grigna. By L. Gasparini & F. Della Beffa, 83 106The Circuit of Andorra. By T.A.H. Peacocke, 83 160Olympian Triad. By J.G.R. Harding, 92 136Pic Ruivo Interlude (Madeira). By A. Husbands, 92 163The British, Kugy and Western Slovenia. By K. Rozman, 92 182

GENERAL INDEX

Maps:Italy - major mountain groups, 78 122Gran Sasso, 78 125Mount Etna, 78 138

63

Climbers Playgrounds - EuropeGrigna. By J. Cleare, 76 169Chalk Climbing in France. By E. Pyatt, 76 173Saussois. By C. Davies, 77 183The Calanques. By E. Shepherd, 77 185Haggsta. By E.A. Bo Soderberg, 77 187Outcrop Climbing from Rome. By A. Heppenstall, 77 188Sandstone rocks in Czechoslovakia. By K. Hetman, 78 116North-Western France. By E. Pyatt, 78 117Practice Crags in Scandinavia. By R. Barley, 78 119The Dentelles de Montmirail. By E. Pyatt, 79 207Peilstein - A well-known Viennese training mountain. By H. Peterka, 79 208Montserrat. By C. Mont, 79 210Climbing in the Swabian Alps in SW Germany. By W. Frey, 80211Burgundy - The Cote d'Or. By E. Pyatt, 80 213Climbing on the Saleve. By P. Bossus, 80214Languedoc Limestone. By C. Mont, 80218The Caroux. By C. Mont, 81 212Training grounds of Poland. By M. Brniak, 81 213Angouleme - The Rocks of Eaux-Claires. By T. Connor, 81215The Valleys of the Creuse and the Anglin. By G. Richard, 81 217The Palava Rocks. By J. Jurak, 82 143The Rocher Saint-Julien. By M. Craig, 82 144La Pedriza del Manzanares. By M. Redondo de la Puz, 82 145The Rocks of the Aveyron Gorge. By T. Connor, 82 147Climbing in the Franconian Jura in South Germany. By R. Buchner, 83 139Climbing in the Elbsandsteingebirge (East Germany). By D. Hasse, 83140The rocks at Surgy (Nievre, France). By G. Richard, 83 143Sea Cliff Climbing at Gaeta. By G. Battimelli, 84 139Outcrops in Vaud. By C. Mont, 84 141Climbing in the Black Forest. By J. Schneider, 84 142Fontainebleau. By C. Mont, 85 208Sudpfalz (South Palatinate). By J. Schneider, 85209Climbs near Turin. (1) Rocca Sbarua. By CAI-Turin, 86 152Nordeifel. By J. Schneider, 86 153Hauteroche. By M. Rebiffe, 86 157More rocks in Central France. By C. Mont, 87 135Climbs near Turin. (2) Denti di Cumiana. By CAI-Turin, 87 137Rotenfels. By J. Schneider, 87 139The Bruchhauser Steine. By J. Schneider, 88 130Climbs in Champagne: Vertus. By M. Rebiffe, 88 133Freyr. By C. Mont, 88 134

Alps - generalItalian Climbing between the Wars. By R. Cassin, 77 149A married man's Alpine holiday. By R. Brooke, 81196Summers in and around the Swiss Prealps. By C. Kemp, 84 92Perpetual second. By B. Swindin, 85 102A grand high level route. By D.B. Duffield, 8741


An Introduction to Mountains. By J. Gibson, 91 179The Big Triple Tick or Scrambles in the Nordwands. By P. Thornhill, 92 165

Eastern AlpsClimbs in the Allievi Cirque, Bregaglia. By N. Rogers, 7548Return to the Alps. By 1. Howell, 76 105Piz Badile for the Over-seventies. By W. Kirstein, 77 48Once again, Engadine and Bregaglia. By W. Kirstein, 78 133The Grossglockner: its climbs and pioneers. By E. Roberts, 82 189Piz Balzetto, Bregaglia. By W. Kirstein, 82 197Too much snow on Piz Gliischaint. By W. Kirstein, 83 178Albigna Valley 1978. By W. Kirstein, 84183Cacciabella. By W. Kirstein, 85 199The Biancograt. By M. Baldwin, 89 138Fuorikante. By K. Neal, 90 145The Oberreintal. By 1. Chrystal, 91 122

Mont BlancBrenva ice. By D. Gray, 74 123New route on the Grand Pilier d'Angle. By E. Chrobak, 7595Pointe Helene. By E. Chrobak, 77 61Winter Climbing III the Mont Blanc Massif. By H. Agresti, 77 197The North face of Les Courtes. By 1. Rowe, 7823Les Courtes solo. By M. Coleman, 80 141Grands Charmoz in Winter. By R. Collister, 8165A Day on the North ridge of the Peigne. By C.V. Beechey, 82 186Mont Blanc again after 28 years. By C. Beechey, 85 17Winter Climbing on the Peigne, Scottish Style. By A. Nisbet, 89 134

Pennine AlpsThe Theodulpass: a history. By B. Harriss, 7587The Monte Moro Pass and the Col d'Herens. By B. Harris, 76 127Travel and Trade in the Pennine Alps. By B. Harriss, 77 175Memories of Arolla and Fafler Alp. By F.G. Irving, 86 188The Dent Blanche. By M. Craig, 87 9

Bernese AlpsSuddenly all Hell Broke loose (Eigerwand). By B. Nally, 7467Specialists on the Eiger. Epicures on the Lauper route. By B.W.J. Griffiths,

77139Filming on the Nordwand. By L. Dickinson, 77 144Lauterbrunnen Breithorn - North face. By R. Barton, 79 71One and a half in the Alps. By D. Challis, 79203Memories of a first season. By L.J.G. Preston, 8730First ascent of the Galenstock (1845). By E. Desor, 87 58A Long Day on the Schreckhorn. By L.J.G. Preston, 88 170Finsteraarhorn. A Winter Expedition. By S. Venables, 89 129Dear Dad. (Eigerwand) By P. Mould, 90 140Maps:

Concordiaplatz, Aletschgletscher & Finsteraarhorn, 89 130

DolomitesThe North face of Monte Agner. By M. Mortimer, 7436

65GENERAL INDEX

A big leaning wall - Cima Ovest in photos. By D. Scott, 75 59

Western AlpsMountains of paradise. By J.G.R. Harding, 82 133Ten Dauphine ice climbs. By L. Griffin & J. Brailsford, 87 180

Ski-ing in the AlpsA long Haute Route 1968. By J. Wilson, 74 83Some extreme ski runs. By K. Lapuch, 75 31Sixty years off-piste: reflections of a ski-mountaineer. By W. Kirstein, 75 124Ski Descent of Mont Blanc. By D.St.J. Brightman, 77 136British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972. By P. Cliff, 78 13Bernina Bummel. By B. Wilberforce Smith, 78 139Ski-mountaineering in the Eastern Alps. By G. Freeman, 85176With young folks on the Haute Route. By M. Wroe, 87 20A Winter Diary 1925-26. By J.A.H. Bell, 8837Ski touring at Fifty. By A. Venables, 8892The Obsessional Journey. By S. Westmacott, 90 193

NORTH AMERICA

1. Alaska and YukonSouthern Logan Mountains 1968. By E. Maden, 74 108The South face of Mount Dan Beard (3127m) Alaska. By R. O'Donovan, 80 63Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon.

By K. Andrasko & T. Moore, 8119The South Face of Mount McKinley 1976. By D. Scott & D. Haston, 82 173Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon, PUI.

By T. Moore & K. Andrasko, 8323The North Face of Mount Deborah. By C. Macquarie, 8351Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon, PUll. By K.

Andrasko & T. Moore, 8464Yukon - A Winter Excursion. By Guy Sheridan, 91 120Hunter's South Ridge - Alpine Style. By S. Richardson, 92 10On the Junean Ice-Field. By E.P. Leahy, 92 192Maps:

Alaska and the Yukon, 81 20Mount Hunter, 92 11Junean Ice-field, 92 193

2. Canada (except Yukon)Calgary Climber. By B. Greenwood, 75 101Nelson's Mountains. 1. Thomas Douglas. By W.L. Putnam, 78 1Nelson's Mountains. 2. Goodwin Purcell. By W.L. Putnam, 79 34The Chief. By R. Culbert, 80 105

3. Other districtsOut of the mid-day sun - the Lost Arrow Chimney. By E. Ward-Drummond,

7492Vertical Desert: the nose of El Capitan. By M. Burke, 74 125The Salathe Wall. By C. Jones, 7525North face of the Grand Teton and Black Ice Couloir. By J. Noble, 77 157El Gran Trono Blanco. By I. Agresti, 82 99


Sandstone towers of the American south-west Desert. By E. BjllJrnstad, 84 10The profit of impurism - the Shawangunk scene. By M. Robinson, 86 81A mile in the sky. By R. Turnelle, 8734The Colorado Plateau. By P. Hillman, 87 121The Appalachian Trail Pt. 1. By P. Willis, 87 197The Appalachian Trail Pt. 2. By P. Willis, 88 118North American Assortment. By E. Webster, 90 153

SOUTH AMERICA

I. AndesYerupaja traverse: the New Zealand expedition. By D. Adcock, 747The Amazon face of Yerupaja: the British American expedition. By C. Jones,

7415A Visit to the Ishinca Valley, Cordillera Blanca, 1968. By W. Amstutz, 74 39The West face of Jirishanca 1969. By R. Cassin, 75 1Nevado Chopicalqui, South East Ridge. By M. Clarbrough, 75 13Huascanin: the West arc~te1969. By P. Sherman, 75 131El Toro. By J.V. Anthoine, 76 143Cordillera Carabaya Expedition 1971. By K. Dilworth, 77211The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. By D.M. Snoswell, 7878Peru - Cordillera Vileabamba 1971. By R. Fedden, 78 83Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition 1972. By P. Bunting, 78201Huascanin, East face diretissima. By E. Koblmiiller, 7939The unconquered south face of Huandoy. By R. Schipper, 79 139Expedition to the Millpo Group (Peru). By L. Gaetani, 81 63Huandoy Chopicalqui. By W. Stefan, 82 165The Central Cordillera of Colombia. By E. Echevarria, 82 49The Cordillera Blanca of Peru as a National Park. By E. Echevarria, 85 200Sangay survived - the first time. By T. Moore, 8628Some Climbs in Peru and Bolivia. By S. Venables, 8844Legends of the High Andes. By E. Echevarria, 88 85The South-West Ridge of Huascanin Sur. By M. Harber, 88 157The Colombian Andes, Nevado del Huila-Pico la Cresta. By C.M. Heath,

88161The South African Cordillera Blanca Expedition 1982. By M. Scott, 88 173Northern Andean Butterflies - Search and Research. By M. Adams, 8990Gwent Andean Expedition 1983. By M. Rosser, 89 161Bolivia's Royal Range. By P. Drummond, 90172Andes Adventure. By S. Richardson, 90 184Cordillera Apolobamba - the First Ascent of Palomani Tranca. By J. Curran,

91135The Sierra Nevada de Merida. By L. Griffin, 92 20Saleantay: South West Face. By P. Leeming, 9227Three Excursions in the Peruvian Cordilleras. By R. Payne, 92 37A Calling. By J. Gore, 9243Early British Ascents in the Andes (1831-1946). By E. Echevarria, 9261The British Andean Climbing Expedition 1986. By J. Nixon, 9267Maps:

Colombia, 82 50; 89 96Huascanin Sur, 88 159Nevado del Huila - Pico la Cresta, 88 163Sierra Nevada de Merida, 92 21Saleantay, Cordillera Vileabamba, 92 28

GENERAL INDEX 67

2. Patagonia and Tierra del FuegoFitzroy 1968. By C. Jones, 74 131The Sword and others. By M. Scott, 78 195Crossing the Hielo Patagonico del Norte. By Capt. C.H. Agnew, 79 43Patagonian Ice-Cap 1971-72. By Members of the Johchi University A.C., 79237Mount Burney. By E. Shipton, 80 1At the eleventh hour (the first ascent of the longest rock climb in the world).

By M. Scott, 80 5Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, Patagonia. By B. Campbell-Kelly, 81191Tierra del Fuego 1979. By J. Earle, 85 141The East Ridge of San Lorenzo, Patagonia. By P. Fatti, 92 48Beyond Patagonia. By I. Peters, 92 54Maps:

Tierra del Fuego, 85 140Patagonian Ice Cap, 79239

3. Other (South American) districtsThe Mummer - Cordillera del Paine, Chile. By D. Cheesmond, 84117Aconcagua South Face. By I. Komprej, 89 157Puna de Atacama, Chile. By S. Fraser, 90 177Maps:

Puna de Atacama; OJos del Salado, 90 178

ANTARCTIC AND ARCTIC, GREENLAND & ICELAND

1. GreenlandMajorteqe (Peak BOOm) 1974. By R.D. Hoare, 80203Traverse of the Staunings Alps. By K.J. Miller, 81143Blubber and Boats. By R. Hoare, 89 104Greenland: The Experience. By M. Sales, 92 189Maps:

Parts of Greenland, 89 105, 106

2. IcelandMountaineering in Iceland - a personal appraisal. By R. Smith, 86 119Failure on Forel. By D. Fordham & R. Hoare, 90 161Maps:

Iceland, 86 120

3. ArcticMount Asgard. By D. Scott, 78 85The Uttermost North. By M. Banks, 79 174Baffin Island adventure. By M. Scott, 83153To the Place of Graves. By D. Fordham, 89 108

4. AntarcticElephant Island. By C.H. Agnew of Lochnaw Yr., 77 204The Exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula. By S. Fraser, 89 97Joint Services Expedition to Brabant Island, Antarctica. By J. Kimbrey, 91139Maps:

Elephant Island, 77 207Antarctic Peninsula, 89 100

68AFRICA


1. Central and SouthSome new routes in South Africa 1969. By R. Barley, 75 71Mawenzi - a complete traverse from South to North. By F. Lortscher, 76 138After Everest. De-acclimatisation climbs in East Africa. By I. Howell, 77 80Climbing in Rhodesia. By W. Krog, 7786The North by North-West route on Du Toits Peak. By M. Scott, 7794The Natal Drakensberg. By R.O. Pearse, 7827Kilimanjaro: first ascent of the Northern Ice-field. By F. Lortscher, 78 166Peter Botte's Mountain. By L. Gilbert, 78 161Toverkop (Witch's Head). By M. Scott, 79 99Mammals of the East African Mountains. By R. Bere, 79 179The Cedarbergen. By M. Scott, 81 128The Ice Desert of Kilimanjaro. By I. Allan, 82 171Ruwenzori. By J. Cleare, 82 12A mountaineers' history of Table Mountain. By M. Scott, 83 120Walking and climbing in Botswana. By A. Mills, 84 38Climbing in Namibia. By F. Elliott, 84 113Climbing in Malawi. By R. Crossley & F. Eastwood, 85 69Modern hard climbing in South Africa. By M. Scott, 85 182Twenty years of glacier recession on Kilimanjaro. By F. L6rtscher, 8754South African days. By R. Hinings, 87 109Through the Ice Window to Nelion. By R. Allen, 91 116Maps:

Rhodesia, 77 89Drakensberg, 78 129Table Mountain & Devil's Peak, 83 122Southern Malawi, 85 68The Mulanje Massif (Malawi), 8572

2. NorthIn the heart of the Sahara: the Hoggar. By 1. & H. Agresti, 79 103The Hoggar Mountains. By P. Lucock, 83 43About Irghil M'Goun and the Bou Goumez. By H. Brown, 84 3The Ridge of Dreams. By H. Brown, 92 150

AUSTRALASIA (inc. New Guinea & Indonesia)Recent New Zealand developments. By N. von Tunzelmann, 7471The Dugundugoo. By R. Isherwood, 78 188Antipodean Ventures. I. Western Australia. By J.G.R. Harding, 7928Antipodean Ventures. II. The Snowy Mountains. By J.G.R. Harding, 81100Mountaineering in Indonesia. By H. Ishak, 81 35Antipodean Ventures. III. Mt. Cook. By J.G.R. Harding, 82 55The Snow Mountains of Irian Jaya. By H. Collins, 85 118Mountains and climbs in Tasmania. By R. Rodda, 86 17Kinabalu - Northern Borneo. By D. Nicol, 90187Climb High Down Under. By A.S. Hunt, 91 133Maps:

Indonesia, 81 36-7New Guinea-West Irian, 82242Tasmania, 86 18Mount Kinabalu, 90 188

GENERAL INDEX

MIDDLE EASTA note on the mountains of Sinai. By J.e. Hawksley, 80 145Across Zagros on skis. By G. Sheridan, 83 102Some 4000 metre peaks of southern Iran. By G. Sheridan, 84 187The Mountains of Wadi Rum. By A. Howard, 91 109Maps:

Zagros Range of SW Iran, 83 103Peak of South Iran, 84, 188, 191, 193Wadi Rum, 91 110

69

FAR EAST: JAPAN, KOREA, TIBET & CHINAMountaineering in Japan. By I. Yoshizawa, 79 128A visit to Japan. By H.W.R. Wade, 81 59Mountains and Mountaineering in South Korea. By K. Jeong-tai, 83 55The Kongur Massif in Southern Xinjiang (Sinkiang). By M. Ward, 867Science on Mont Kongur. By M. Ward, 8765The Mountains of Tibet and the Tibet/China border. By F. Boothman, 8783Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China. By H. Day, 87 117Ski Mountaineering in China. The Ascent of Mustagh Ata. By J. Cleare, 88 29China's Highest Mountains. By G. Morgan, 8865Bogdo Ola Group Survey. By S. Kodama, 8870Mountaineering in China. By E.E. Vaill, 9023A Mountain in China. By Dora H. de Beer, 9035Across Tibet. By M. Ward, 91 84Ulugh Muztagh: The Highest Peak on the Northern Tibetan Plateau.

By P. Molnar, 92 104An Electrifying Experience (on Muztagh Ata). By M. Jardine, 92 117Maps:

Mountains of Japan, 79 130-1Kongur, 86 10Da Xue Shan, 87 118The Chinese Pamirs, 8830China, 9026-7Tibet, 91 85Northern Tibetan Plateau, 92 105

ASIA

1. Himalaya and Karakoram

(a) 8,OOO-ersThe first steps towards Mt Everest. By T.S. Blakeney, 7643Makalu - the first ascent by the SE ridge. By M. Hara & M. Asami, 7635Annapurna - North face route. By H. Day, 7689Annapurna South face. By e. Bonington, 76 19Everest - A Reporter's View. By M. Sayle, 77 116Manaslu West Wall 1971. By A. Takahishi, 77 26Thirteen nations on Mount Everest. By J. Cleare, 779The French expedition to Makalu West ridge 1971. By R. Paragot & others, 78 44Manaslu 1972. By W. Nairz, 79 15The first ascent of Yalung Kang. By H. Higuchi, 80 17Japanese women's expedition - Manaslu 1974. By N. Nakaseko, 8095


British Everest Expedition, South West Face 1975. By P. Boardman & R.Richards, 81 3

Victory and Tragedy on Broad Peak. By K. Glasek & J. Ferenski, 82 129Polish K2 expedition 1976. By J. Kurczab, 8381978 American K2 expedition. By H. Adams Carter, 84 52Kangchenjunga South and Central 1978. By M. Malatynski, 85 43Kangchenjunga North Ridge 1979. By J. Tasker, 8549The Chilean Karakoram Expedition 1979 (Gasherbrum II). By G. Oyarzun,

85151The 1979 Spanish expedition to Dhaulagiri I. By R. Bramona, 85 190The Spanish Expedition towards Central Kengchenjunga 1978. By J. Prunes,

86177The South Face of Dhaulagiri. By F. Savenc, 88 181Broad Peak. By K. Palmowska. 89 11Under the Spell of K2 and Gasherbrum. By K. Deimberger, 89 16The East Pillar of Nanga Parbat. By Prof. Dr. H. Koffer, 89 21Mount Everest. The First Winter Ascent. By A. Zawada, 89 50Five Miles High Without Oxygen. By P. Moores, 8959A Sortie on Broad Peak. By K. Diemberger, 90 54Broad Peak Climbed in One Day. By K. Wielicki, 90 61Everest North Face - A doctor's view. By R. Villar, 90 110Everest Pre-Monsoon. By S. Martin, 90 113A Dangerous Day. By M. Duff, 91 76Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition. By R Faux, 92 92Maps:

Annapurna 1970, 7620Manaslu, 7919Nanga Parbat, 76221; 8922

(b) NepalGurja Hima!: first ascent, 1969. By Y. Yakushi, 75 17Return to Kanjiroba. By J. Tyson, 75 114The first ascent of Kangbachen. By K.W. Olech, 8029Lamjung Hima!. By R. Isherwood, 80 37Dhaulagiri 2. By F. Huber, 77 168First ascent of Churen Hima!. By R Yamamoto, 77 105Attempt on Nampa 6755m. By J. Allen, 77 126The Hidden Valley. By R. Collister, 79189Dhaulagiri III. By K. Schreckenbach & P. von Gizycki, 80 198Rokapi 1974. By A. Kellas, 80 219Nuptse 1975. By J. Fleming, 81 107Kanjiroba 1976. By R. Isherwood, 83 37Avalanche on Sisne - 1977. By RA.L. Anderson, 8373On foot in Nepa!. By J.K. Longacre, 84 181Come on lads - its no worse than the MidiPlan (Gauri Sankar S. Peak). ByJ. Barry, 8639A Himalayan pass in winter - Tashi Lapcha La. By S. Fraser, 8696Soldiers on Api. By C. Agnew of Lochnaw, 86 167Round Annapurna. AC meet October-November 1981. 87 186Last Virgin in the Khumbu. By W. O'Connor, 8821Langtang Lirung South Face 1980. By M. Searle, 88 106Winter on Annapurna IV. By C. Hannigan, 88 177The Traverse of Kangde Shar. By L. Griffin, 8940Riders of the Storm. The West Ridge of Thamserku. By M. Duff, 8947

GENERAL INDEX 71

Annual leave - Ganesh II South Face. By N. Kekus, 9071The Way to Chulu. By K. O'Connell, 9097Kusum Kanguru, a Lightweight Expedition. By D. Hopkins, 90 105Paldor. By H.G. Nicol, 91 78Sherpas and Skis. By J.A Jackson, 91 101A Winter Journey through Eastern Nepal. By I. Haig, 91 103The Other Side of the Mera. By M. Duff, 92 89Maps:

Gurja Himal, 75 17West Nepal, 75 115Kanjiroba Himal, 75 117Makalu 1970, 76 34Dhaulagiri Group, 76 228Kangchenjunga (routes to Yalung Kang), 8029Kanjiroba Himal, 83 38Tashi Lapcha La, 8697Langtan-Ganesh-Jugal, 88 109Kusum Kanguru, 90 106Chulu, 9098Paldor, 91 80Eastern Nepal, 91 104

(c) KarakoramThe ascent of K6. By E. Koblmiiller, 76 149North West Karakoram. By T. Braham, 76 163Two expeditions to Malubiting. By A Kus & P. von Grzycki, 76 186The Battle for Kinyang Chhish. By A Kus, 77 21Malubiting - snow\?eak above desert valleys. By H. Schindlbacher, 7853Sia Kangri (7422m) 1974 Diary. By W. Stefan, 80 151Shispare Climbed. The Polish-German Karakoram expedition 1974. By J. Kur-

czab, 80223Trango Tower. By J.V. Anthoine, 8145A Summer in Gilgit (1975) Pt.1. By R. Collister, 82 158Trango Conclusion. By J.V. Anthoine, 82 184The British Ogre Expedition 1977. By J.V. Anthoine, 833A Summer in Gilgit (1975) Pt.II. By R. Collister, 83 64A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.1. Latok II. By P. Nunn, 83 114Spanish expedition to Saraghrar 1977. By R. Bramona, 83 210A first ascent of Pruppoo-Brukh (c.7000m). By Japanese Railway Workers

Karakoram Expedition, 84 118Rakaposhi from the North. By S. Kodama, 86 185British Conway's Ogre expedition 1980. By AV. Saunders, 86 191British 1980 expedition to Baltoro Kangri. By B. Hall, 86 198British West Karakoram expedition 1981. By J. Nixon, 87 132Kanjut Sar West Face. By M. Fujii, 88 179Oropolitics. By J. Sircar, 89 74Autumn in Shimshal and Naltar. By S. Venables, 9064The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower. By M. Duff, 90 74Bojohagar. By M. Fowler, 90 77The Siachen Indo-British Expedition 1985. By S. Venables & D. Wilkinson, 91 19The Eastern Karakoram. By H. Kapadia, 91 33The Scottish Gasherbrum III Expedition. By D. Rubens, 91 41Excursions and Climbs from the Karakoram Highway. By D. Scott, 9146The Sosbun Glacier Region. By L. Griffin, 91 49


The Alpine Club Karakoram Meet. August 1985. By B. Murphy, 9153Walking Conway's Great White Roof - the first traverse of Chogolisa. By A.

Fanshawe, 92 74Maps:

K6 1969-70, 76 152N.W. Karakoram, 76162Malubiting 1969, 76 180Gilgit, 82 160; 83 65Thaime Chish, 87 132East Karakoram, 8976West Karakoram, 9065Malangutti Glacier 1984, 90 66Naltar Region, 90 68Siachen, 91 22-3Gasherbrum Group, 91 43

(d) Garhwal HimalayaChangabang. By D. Scott, 80 155First ascent of Swargarohini (6247m). By C. Clarke, 80 195Kalanka 1974. By R. Mear, 8169Garhwal Himalaya - the Bhillangana Valley. By P. Mould, 82 168In the steps of Shipton. By P.J. Horniblow, 84 154A month on Trisu!. By S. Inada, 85 193The Anglo-Indian Gangotri Sanctuary expedition. By D. Scott & M. English,

873A short walk in the Pilgun Gad. By G. Cohen, 8779Bhagirathi III. By R. Barton, 88 49Kalanka Alpine Style. By N. Kekus, 88 135Tharkot, an Expedition to the Garhwal. By B. Jones, 90 100Views on the Gangotri. By M. Moran, 91 57The British-Indian Police Himalayan Expedition 1986. By L. Hardy, 92 79Alpine Club Garhwal Meet. Sept-Oct 1986. By A. Greenwood, 9285Maps:

Trisul, 85 195Nanda Devi Northern Sanctuary, 88 136Tharcot, 90 101Gangotri, 91 58Gangotri W., 92 80

(e) Punjab (Kulu, Lahul, Spiti, Ladakh, Zanskar, Kashmir)The first Ascent of Mukar Beh. By J. Ashburner, 74 58First ascent of Ali Ratni Tibba 1969. By F. Harper, 759First ascent of Parvati Peak. By M. Tremonti, 75 53Three peaks in Chamba-LahuI1967. By D.H. Challis, 7539The Kishtwar Himalaya Expedition 1971. By C. Clarke, 77 164Indrasan West Ridge Expedition 1971. By A. Johnson, 77 34Excursions to Bara Bangahal and Lahu!. By A. Smythe, 78 179Himalayan Sojourn. By G. Clark, 78 38The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1973. By

J. Fleming, 7921Parbati South, 1972. By J. Prosser, 79115Parbati South, 1973. By R. Collister, 79 121The North of England Himalayan Expedition 1975. By P. Bean, 8283Schoolboys on Kolahoi. By R. Gilbert, 83 174

GENERAL INDEX 73Kishtwar from the other side. By R. Collister, 83206East Kulu 1977. By P. Bean, 83 149A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.2. Baleful Barnaj. By P. Nunn, 8487Brammah 1978. By A. Wheaton, 84 103The first ascent of Dibibokri Pyramid, Kulu 1978. By N. Hewitt, 85 115The opening of Ladakh - five years on. By M. Dravers, 85 129Forty-four and a half in the Himalaya. By D. Challis, 85 154The British Kishtwar Himalaya expedition 1979. By A. Wheaton, 86 181A winter journey through the Western Himalaya. By G. Sheridan, 87 167A journey through Zanskar. By I. Haig, 88 139Over the Kangla Jot. By M. Baldwin, 88165Kishtwar-Shivling. By S. Venables, 89 30A traverse of the Kishtwar Himalaya. By A. Hunt, 89 35Reflections of a First Trip to the Himalaya. By N. Barrett, 9084Mountains of the Snow Leopard. By S. Fraser, 91 65Maps:

Approach to Mukar Beh, 74 59Miyar Nullah, 75 38, 42; 85 155Parvati Peak, 75 54Siran Peaks, 78 185Parbati South, 79 120Ladakh, 85 131Kang Yisay area, 85 135East Kishtwar, 89 36Kishtwar Region, 89 38-9Ladakh, 91 66

(f) Hindu KushTirich Mir 1969. By H. Day, 7579Noshaq on skis. By U. Schwabe, 77 110British Central Hindu Kush Expedition 1971. By R. Scott, 77 170Ka~han 1972. By W. Stefan, 78 185ChltraI1971. By W. Stefan, 78 183Noshaq in Winter. By A. Zawada, 79 11Hindu Kush - Alpine style. By P.D. Boardman, 79 111Spanish expedition Hindu Kush 1973. By J.M. Montfort, 79 199Skhawr 1975. By M. BaJa, 82 210Mountains of the Thui Gol. By D. Broadhead, 82 115Wakhan 1977. By L. Griffin, 84 36The Ascent of Thui II. By N.P. Tritton, 84 58Anglo-.Polish Hindu Kush expedition 1977. By M. Brniak, 84 137Kohe Skhawr. By M. Brniak, 84172Buni Zorn. By R. Isherwood, 85 147Maps:

Tirich Mir, 7579Hindu Kush Shkurigal Valley, 77170The Thui Group, 8460

(g) Bhutan and SikkimExploring Bhutan's North-West. By J. Tyson, 83 182Jannu. By A. Rouse, 85 77Mountaineering in Bhutan (1). By Capt. M.S. Kohli, 90 18Mountaineering in Bhutan (2). By P. Mould, 90 21The Lama and the Laser. Two Years in Bhutan. By N. Barrett, 91 90

74 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92An October Trek in Bhutan. By E. Peck, 91 94Maps:

N.W. Bhutan, 83183

(h) Asia - General articles· Himalaya and KarakoramThe Roof of the World from Apollo 7. By T.S. Blakeney, 7565The Himalayan Ethic - time for a rethink. By D. Gray, 76 156The Himalaya - Winds of Change. By T. Braham, 7857The Eastern Himalaya - An Introduction. By M. Ward, 90 10Multi Peak - Alpine Style. By D. Scott, 90 88Maps:

The Eastern Himalaya, 90 12-13

2. PamirsRoutes leading to Pik Kommunizma. By J. Wala, 78 173International Meet to Transalai Pamir. July/August 1974. By R. Richards, 80 89International Alpine Camp, Pamirs 1978. By M. Brniak, 85 83A Botanical Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor. By C. Grey-Wilson, 8897Maps:

Peak Communism, 78 173The Jazgulem glacier, 8554Wakhan Corridor, 88105

3. MongoliaThe Mountains of Mongolia. By J. Baryla & M. Brniak, 86 103In the Altai. By J. Town, 9047Maps:

Mountains of Mongolia, 86 104-5, 106Altai Bielukha, 90 50

GUIDE BOOKS

GENERAL INDEX 75

Guidebooks published between 1969 and 1987 and reviewed or notedin Vols. 74-92

British IslesRockclimbing in the British Isles 1894-1970. A bibliography of guide books.

77264Sea Cliff Climbing in Britain. 78 253The Mountains of England and Wales. 79264

EnglandSouth Devon Climbers Guide. 77 264Climbing in Cornwall. 79 264Great Langdale. 79 264The Kinder Area (Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 7). 80276The Staffordshire Gritstone Area (Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 9). 80276Scafell Group. 80 276Lundy Rock Climbs. 80 276Rock Climbing in the Peak District. 81 251Rock Climbing in the Lake District. 81 251Chair Ladder and the South Coast. 81 252The Western Outcrops. 81252Rock Climbs in Lancashire and the North West. 81252Ramblers Cheviot. 82 246Dartmoor. 83 247Dorset. 83247Climbs in the South West. 1. Wye Valley. 2. Cheddar. 83248Borrowdale. 84 244Rock Climbs in the Peak - Recent Developments. 84 244Lake District North. 84244Recent Developments in the Lake District. 84 244Helsby and the Wirral. 84 244South West Climbs. 85 235Rock Climbs in Lancashire and the North West - Supplement. 85235Rock Climbs - Isle of Man. 85 235Froggatt Area. 85 235Devon Rock Climbs. 85 235Devon New Climbs 1980. 86236Lundy Rock Climbs. 86 236Northern Limestone - Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 4. 86236Great Langdale. 86236North of England: Eden Valley, North Lakes Limestone etc. 86236Winter Climbs in the Lake District. 86 236Buttermere and Eastern Crags. 86236The Peak and Pennines. 89 254Rock Climbing in the Peak District. 89 254Cornwall, West Penwith. 90264Scafell, Dow and Eskdale. 90274Derwent Gritstone. 91 256Yorkshire Limestone. 91263South Devon and Dartmoor. 92 276


Lundy Rock Climbs. 92 276Winter Climbs in the Lake District. 92 277Swanage. 92 279Borrowdale. 92 279

WalesRockcIimbing in Wales. 76316Snowdon Range. 79 264The Three Cliffs. 80 276Central Wales. 80276Rock Climbing in Wales. 81251Cwm Idwal. 81 251Dolgellau Area - Cader Idris & the Rhinog Range. 81 251Winter Climbs in North Wales. 81 252Carneddau. 82245Clogwyn du'r Arddu. 82 246Climbs on North Wales Limestone. 82 246Climbers' Club Guides to Wales - 3. Llanberis Pass. 84244Gogarth. 84244Tremadog and the Moelwyns. 85 235Scrambles in Snowdonia. 86 236Aran-Cader Idris Climbers Guide Supplement 1980. 86 236North Wales, New Climbs. 89 253Tremadog. 89 253The Summits of Snowdon. 90 261North Wales Limestone 1983. 90 263A Cambrian Way. 90 267The Mountains of Wales. 91 261

ScotlandThe Cairngorms. 74 381The Central Highlands. 74 381Munro's Tables. 75 317The Islands of Scotland. 77 264Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms Area. Vol. V. Creag an Dubh Loch, Glen

Clova. 77 264Scottish Climbs. Vol. 1. South and West. Vol. 2. North East. 77 264The Southern Uplands. 78 254Rhum. 79264The Northern Highlands. 81252The Island of Skye. 82 246Sea Cliff Climbs in the Aberdeen Area. 84 244Climbers Guide to Arran. 8S 234Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms Area. Vol. IV-V. 85 235Climbers Guide to Ben Nevis. 85235Rock Climbs in Glen Nevis - Poldubh and other crags. 85 235Glencoe and Glen Etive - Rock and Ice Climbs. 86 236Black Cuillin Ridge - Scrambler's Guide. 86 236; 92 278Scrambles in Skye. 89 253The Western Highlands. 89253Creag Dubh and Craig-A-Barns. 89 254The Central Highlands. 90 265Munro's Tables. 90 273North-East Outcrops of Scotland. 91258

77GENERAL INDEX

Rock Climbs: Glen Nevis and the Lochaber Outcrops. 91260Scrambles in Lochaber. 91 260Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms. 91 260The Southern Highlands. 92 278

IrelandWicklow Rock Climbs. 82 246Antrim Coast Rock Climbs. 82 246Mountaineering in Ireland. 82 246Mourne Rock-Climbs. 82 246Irish Walk Guide. 3 - North West. 85234New Climbs (in Ireland) 1976, 1977 & 1978. 85 234Bray Head and Minor Crags around Dublin. 85 235Malinbeg and Other Sea Cliffs. 85 235Burren Seac1iff. 85 235Dalkey Rock Climbs. 86 236Rock-Climbing in Ireland. 91 262

AlpsSelected Climbs in the Bernese Alps. 74 379artIer Alps. 74 380Le Massif des E/crins. Vol. 1. Meije-E/crins. 75313Graians East. Gran Paradiso Area. 75314Zermatt and District: Alpine Guide II. 75 314Central Switzerland: Grimsel-Furka-Susten. 75 315Die Hutten des Deutschen Alpenvereins. 75316Bernese Alps West. 76317Karwendel. 77 242Bregaglia East. 77 242Kaisergebirge. 77 242Mountains of the Alps Vol. I. Western Alps. 77242Berner Alpen III - Bietschorn-Aletschorn. 78 233Guide du Massif des E/crins. Tome II. 78 233La Chaine de Mont Blanc. 1. Mt. Blanc-Trelatete. 79253Ski-Guide to Austria. 79 254High Level Route. Chamonix-Zermatt-Saas (Ski-mountaineering). 80258Mittel Switzerland. Lepontine-Ticino-Adula Alps. 80258Bregaglia West. 80258Les Aiguilles Rouses. 80 258La Chaine du Mont Blanc: Aig. Verte-Triolet-Dolent-Argentiere-Trient. Guide

Vallot Vol. 3. 81 235Pennine Alps East. 81 236Pennine Alps Central. 81 236Mont Blanc Gruppe. 81 236Le Massif des E/crins. 82234Glockner Region. 82 234Mont Blanc Range. 82 235Crags of the Swiss Berne Alps. 83 236Le Massif des E/crins III - Ailefroide, Pelvoux, Bans and Sirac. 84 221La Chaine de Mont Blanc I - Mont Blanc and Trelatete. 84 222Bernese Alps Central - BlUmlisalp, Lauterbrunnen, Jungfrau, Lotschental,

Baltscheider-Ober Mittelaletsch. 84 222Masino, Bregaglia, Disgrazia I. 84 222Mont Blanc Range Vol. II. Chamonix Aiguilles-Rochefort-Jorasses-Leschaux.84 222


Le Mont Viso - Guide d'Escalades. 85219Bernese Alps East and Bernese Alps West. 85219Ski Alpin Vol. 3 - Alpes Valaisannes. 85220Guide Vallot - La Chaine du Mont Blanc IV. 85220Ski Alpin III: Alpes Valaisannes. 86220Val Vigezzo (Itinerari Alpini 28). 86 221Valmalenco Itinerari. Scetti I: Disgrazia-Vazzeda. II: Bernina-Scalino. 86221Ski Alpinismo in Adamello e Presanella. 86 221Mont Blanc Range III: Triolet-VerteDrus-Argentiere -Chardonnet-Trient.

86221Del Lago Segrino a Canzo: Itinerario Geomorphologico,Geologico e Botanico.

86221Presanella. 86 221L'Oberland Bernois. 89 250Le Massif des E/crins. 89 250Le Grand Paradis et les Vallees du Lanzo. 89250Ortles Cevedale. Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio. 90 259Zermatt area including Saas Fee. 90265High Level Route. 90 265Mont Blanc, les grandes traces. 90 266Belles Courses - series of guidebooks listed. 90 268Adamello Vol. I. 91 255Haute Randonnee Alpine. 91257Bergell, Disgrazia, Engadine De Badile a la Bernina. 91 258Le Massif Central. 91 258The Kalkalpen Traverse. 92 275Tour of the Oisans. 92276A Topo Guide to the Rock Climbs of the Mont Blanc Area. 92 277ryIercantour Park, Maritime Alps. 92 277Ecrins Park, Dauphine Alps. 92 278

FranceEscalades a Surgy. 80 259Escalades Fixin Brochon. 80 259Escalades dans les Alpes de Provence. 81 235Escalades dans Ie Massif du Luberon-Falaises de Buoux. 81 235L'Ecole d'Escalade des Eaux Claires. 81 235Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Sainte-Baume-Bartagne-Beguines. 82234Guide de Escalades du Baou de Saint-Jeannet. 82235Escalades en Vallee de I'Anglin - Rochers de la Guignoterie. 83 234Guides des Montagnes Corses. 83236Escalades dans les Alpes de Provence - Verdon, Cadieres, Teillon and Aiglun.

84221Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Saint Victoire-Les Deux Aiguilles Ie Signal.

84 221En Chartreuse et Vercors - Escalades et Randonnees. 84222Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques. 84 223Falaises de la Seine - Les Andelys. 85 220La montagne et Alpinisme 116. 85 220French Rock Climbs. 86 220Randonnees Pedestres dans Ie Luberon. 90 263Gites et Refuges en France. 90 263Rock Climbing in France. 90 263

79GENERAL INDEX

Escalades a Sugiton, Saint Cyr. 90 265Randonnees Pedestres dans la Sainte-Baume. 91 257Randonnees Pedestres dans la Sainte-Victoire. 91259Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Chartreuse. 92 276Randonnees Pedestres dans Ie Centre Varois. 92278Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques - en Van. 92278Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques - Les Goudes, Saint-Michel. 92 278Escalades dans la Chaine de l'Etoile. 92 278Escalades dans Ie Massif du Vercors. 92278

SwitzerlandEcoles d'Escalades Vaudoises. 82235Kletterfiihrer Klausen - Urnersee. 85 219

Pyrenees and SpainPyrenees East - East of Gavarnie Cirque. 81 235Pyrenees West - West of Gavarnie Cirque. 81235Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees. 84 221Guide des Pyrenees Basques. Promenades-Ascensions-Escalades. 84222Pyrenees, Andorra, Cerdagne: A Guide to the Mountains for Walkers and

Climbers. 86 220Randonnees et Ascensions choises dans Ie Parc National des Pyrenees Occiden-

tales et ses Environs. 86 221Randonnees dans les Pyrenees Ariegeoises. 86 221Sierra Nevada: Itinerarios de Esqui de Monten. 86 221Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees. 89254

80 INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92DolomitesDolomites West, Dolomites East. 76313Excursioni in Val d'Ansiei - Le Dolomiti di Amonzo di Cadore. 84222Alta Via - High Level Walks in the Dolomites. 92 275

NorwayWalks and Climbs in Romsdal. 76315; 84222Klatref~rer for Norge (Climbing guides to Norway). 80258

GreenlandThe Staunings Alps. 78 253

ItalyRocca Sbarua e Monte Tre Denti. 81 236Scalate nelle Grigne. 82 235Alta Via No.7 - delle Prealpi Bellunesi e dell'Alpago. 84222Valmalenco. 84222Gran Sasso. Le piu belle ascensioni dal 3 al 7 grado. 92 278

YugoslaviaAlpes Juliennes. 81 236Julian Alps. 84 222

GreeceMeteora Felsen - Nordgreichland. 83 234The Mountains of Greece. A Walker's Guide. 92 276Greece on Foot. Mountain Treks. Island Trails. 92 277

North AmericaAmerican Alpine Club Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Colum-

bia. 78250White Mountain Guide. 78250A Climber's Guide to Seneca Rocks, West Virginia.Cascade Climbing Guide: Climbing and High Routes: Columbia River and

Stevens Pass. 79 257Shawangunk Rock Climbs. 79 257A Tourist Guide to Mount McKinley. 80 268Climbers Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada - North. 81 244Alpine Guide to South Western British Columbia. 81244Rock climbing in Ontario. 81244Rock Climbs in Yosemite. 81244Climbing Mount Whitney. 81244Shades of Blue (Guide to ice-climbing in New England). 83242A Climbers Guide to Joshua Tree National Monument. 83242Alpine Guide to Southern British Columbia. 84 236A Climbers Guide to Devil's Tower National Monument. 84236Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia. 84 236A Climbers Guide to Yamnuska. 84 236Yosemite Climbs. 84 236Climbers Guide to Yosemite Valley. 84236A Climbers Guide to Smith Rocks, Beacon Park and Steins Pillar. 85 228A Climbing Guide to Colorado's Fourteeners. 85 228

GENERAL INDEX

Cascade Alpine Guide - Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass. 85 228Parios d'Escalade au Quebec. 85 228Cathedral, Humphreys and Whitehorse: a Rock Climbers Guide. 85 228Climbers Guide to Devil's Lake. 85 228Rock - The Climbers Guide to Palisades - Kepler State Park. 85 228A Climbing and Hiking Guide to the Wind River Mountains. 86 231Climbers Guide to the Olympic Mountains. 86231Climbers Guide to the Kankakee River State Park. 86231Devil's Tower National Monument. A Climbers Guide. 92277

81

South AmericaGuia de Excursionismo para la Cordillera de Santiago. 83 246Nievesy Riscos Meridefios. 83 246The Southern Cordillera Real. 84 241Guide to the Peruvian Andes. Part I. Cordillera Blanca and Rosko. 84 242Practical Guide and Routes of Ascension on Mount Aconcagua. 86 234Peruvian Trail Guides: Cordillera Blanca North; Cordillera Central; Cordillera

Huayhuash. 86 234The Southern Cordillera Real - Mountaineering and Ski-ing in Bolivia. 86 234Reise und Trekkingfiihrer fur Bergsteiger. 86 234Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash of Peru. 86 234Backpacking in Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador. 86234Backpacking and Trekking in Peru and Bolivia. 86 235Backpacking in Chile and Argentina plus the Falkland Islands. 86 235Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash of Peru. 90 266Die Scheeberge Ecuador. 90 273Por Los Andes del Ecuador. 90 273

AfricaMountains of Kenya. 75 316Guide to the Ruwenzori, the Mountains of the Moon. 78236Guide Book to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro. 78 237Guide to the Mulanje Massif. 85 221Atlas Mountains Morocco. 86 224

HimalayaZwischen Munjan und Bashgal (Hindu Kush). 74380The Himalaya: An Illustrated Summary of the World's Highest Mountain

Ranges. 75317Trek the Himalayas. 91 257The Himalayas. Playground of the Gods. 91 257Mount Everest. Massiv Nord. Himalaya - Handbuch Band 1. 92 277

Documents

The Alpine Journal Alpine... · The Alpine Journal 1969-87 Compiled by J.R. Murray The Alpine Club, 74 South Audley Street, London WlY 5FF. ISBN 0 900523 56 5 Printed by Titus Wilson