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  • About Nordic Swan Ecolabelled Textiles, hides/skins and leather

    Version 5.0 • date – date Consultation draft

  • Content 1 Summary .......................................................................................................... 4 2 Motives for the Nordic Swan Ecolabelling of textiles, hides/skins and leather ... 5 2.1 UN’s Sustainable Development Goals ............................................................... 7 3 Environmental impact of Nordic Swan Ecolabelled textiles, hides/skins and leather ....................................................................................................................... 8 3.1 Qualitative MECO analysis for textiles ............................................................. 10 3.2 RPS analysis ................................................................................................... 12 3.3 Textiles and a circular economy ....................................................................... 13 3.4 Environmental impact from different types of fibre ............................................ 15 3.5 Microplastics and other microfibres .................................................................. 16 4 Other labelling schemes and steering instruments ......................................... 19 4.1 Important substance lists ................................................................................. 19 5 Justification of the requirements ..................................................................... 20 5.1 Product group definition ................................................................................... 20 5.2 Definitions ........................................................................................................ 22 5.3 Brand Owner licence ........................................................................................ 23 5.4 Production licence ............................................................................................ 25 5.4.1 Description of product and production methods .............................................................. 25

    5.5 Material limitations ........................................................................................... 26 5.6 Re-design of recycled textiles, hides/skins and leather .................................... 29 5.7 Fibre production ............................................................................................... 31 5.7.1 Cotton and other natural seed fibres of cellulose ............................................................ 32 5.7.2 Silk, flax (linen) and other bast fibres (hemp, jute and ramie) ......................................... 36 5.7.3 Wool and other keratin fibres .......................................................................................... 38 5.7.4 Regenerated cellulose fibre ............................................................................................. 43 5.7.5 Synthetic fibre .................................................................................................................. 45 5.7.6 Recycled fibres ................................................................................................................ 51 5.7.7 Additives and fibre treatment ........................................................................................... 53

    5.8 Chemicals used in textile production ................................................................ 55 5.8.1 General chemical requirements ...................................................................................... 56 5.8.2 Specific chemical requirements ....................................................................................... 65

    5.9 Coatings, laminates and membranes ............................................................... 69 5.10 Specific chemical requirement for adhesives ................................................... 71 5.11 Discharges from wet processes ....................................................................... 71 5.12 Energy and water consumption ........................................................................ 72 5.13 Fillings, stuffing materials and padding ............................................................ 74 5.14 Hides/skins and leather .................................................................................... 81 5.15 Quality and performance requirements ............................................................ 89 5.15.1 Quality and performance requirements for textiles .................................................. 89 5.15.2 Quality and performance requirements for hides/skins and leather ........................ 95 5.15.3 Recycling of textiles and fabrics .............................................................................. 96

  • 5.16 Packaging, storage and transport..................................................................... 97 5.17 Social and ethical requirements ..................................................................... 100 5.18 Quality and regulatory requirements .............................................................. 103 6 Areas without requirements .......................................................................... 105 7 Changes compared to previous generation .................................................. 105

    Appendix 1 Analysis and test laboratories Appendix 2 Azo dyes and Carcinogenic aromatic amines

    039 Textiles, hides/skins and leather, 5.0, 16 March 2020 This document is a translation of an original in Danish. In case of dispute, the original document should be taken as authoritative.

    Addresses

    In 1989, the Nordic Council of Ministers decided to introduce a voluntary official ecolabel, the Nordic Swan Ecolabel. These organisations/companies operate the Nordic Ecolabelling system on behalf of their own country’s government. For more information, see the websites: Denmark Ecolabelling Denmark Danish Standards Foundation Göteborg Plads 1, DK-2150 Nordhavn Fischersgade 56, DK-9670 Løgstør Tel: +45 72 300 450 info@ecolabel.dk www.ecolabel.dk

    Finland Ecolabelling Finland Urho Kekkosen katu 4-6 E FI-00100 Helsinki Tel: +358 9 61 22 50 00 joutsen@ecolabel.fi www.ecolabel.fi

    Iceland Ecolabelling Iceland Norræn Umhverfismerking á Íslandi Suδurlandsbraut 24 IS-108 Reykjavik Tel: +354 591 20 00 ust@ust.is www.svanurinn.is Norway Ecolabelling Norway Henrik Ibsens gate 20 NO-0255 Oslo Tel: +47 24 14 46 00 info@svanemerket.no www.svanemerket.no

    Sweden Ecolabelling Sweden Box 38114 SE-100 64 Stockholm Tel: +46 8 55 55 24 00 info@svanen.se www.svanen.se

    This document may only be copied in its

    entirety and without any type of change.

    It may be quoted from provided that Nordic Ecolabelling is stated

    as the source.

    http://www.svanurinn.is/

  • Nordic Ecolabelling 039/5.0 16 March 2020

    4

    1 Summary The Nordic Swan Ecolabelling of textiles is a highly topical issue. The textile industry is waking up and realising that something must be done about achieving more sustainable textile production and consumption. The focus areas for the industry are:

    • Sustainable fibre • Substitution of hazardous chemicals (e.g. Greenpeace’s Detox List) • Reduction in energy and water consumption • Recycling and a circular economy • Responsible production in terms of workers’ rights • Focus on quality and slow fashion rather than fast fashion

    Brands vary in how many of these areas they tackle. Since the Nordic Swan Ecolabelling of textiles examines the entire life cycle of the textile, and all the relevant sustainability parameters, the criteria deal with all six areas listed above.

    New fibre requirements This 5th generation of Nordic Swan Ecolabelling for Textiles, hides/skins and leather includes newly developed requirements concerning textile fibres. The fibres in Nordic Swan Ecolabelled textiles must be either organic, recycled or produced with a reduced environmental footprint. This means, in part, that:

    • Virgin cotton must be 100% organic, although textiles for professional use may, alternatively, be made from fibre 100% certified by either BCI, FairTrade or CmiA.

    • Synthetic fibre must be based on either recycled or bio-based materials. • Regenerated cellulose fibre must be recycled or certified as sustainable,

    and the actual fibre production must involve no discharge to wastewater.

    Updated chemical requirements The following three requirements are tightened and covers all the chemicals in the textile production:

    • Chemicals with undesirable classifications such as toxic, carcinogenic and harmful to the aquatic environment are prohibited.

    • Chemicals classified as CMR substances are prohibited. • It must be clearly demonstrated that none of the 11 groups of substances

    from Greenpeace’s Detox My Fashion campaign1 have been used in the production of Nordic Swan Ecolabelled textiles.

    As in the previous generation of the criteria, the chemical requirements in the new generation use a definition of ingoing substances that entails a ban on specific substances down to 0 ppm.

    1 Destination Zero: Seven Years of Detoxing the Clothing Industry, https://storage.googleapis.com/planet4-international- stateless/2018/07/destination_zero_report_july_2018.pdf accessed 07.08.2019.

    https://storage.googleapis.com/planet4-international-stateless/2018/07/destination_zero_report_july_2018.pdf%20accesse

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