Tasting Opportunities 2017

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Christelle GuibertTasting Director

Introduction

2017 Panel Tasting schedule

Panel tasting

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The results‘Lesser’ Chianti Classicos and Rùfinas trumped more expensive riservas and gran seleziones, and the 2014 vintages also surprised our experts. John Stimpfig reports

The judges

ThiS waS a broad and fascinating tasting incorporating five different vintages, as well as various sub-regions and quality levels. it was also an instructive and enjoyable tasting, albeit with one or two significant caveats.

in particular, all three of our experts agreed that the most successful wines of the tasting were at the more modest Chianti Classico level rather than the loftier and more expensive riservas and gran seleziones. another surprise was the success of the 2014 vintage, which was not at all previously critically rated or regarded.

There were many other positives too. Michael Garner noted that the winemaking was generally much improved: ‘it was more careful and sensitive than a decade ago, with more focus on fruit and freshness.’

all the tasters approved of the majority of the wines’ balance in terms of oak and alcohol. ‘it’s clear that oak has been consciously played down,’ said Emily O’hare. ‘it seems as if winemakers are starting to appreciate Sangiovese by not overwhelming it with too much wood.’

Monty waldin noted: ‘we were dealing with a broad band of vintages, including wet ones like 2014 and very hot ones like 2012, 2011 and even 2010. interestingly though, the wines that we tended to favour were the ones that showed lovely lacy tannins and very clear red fruit freshness.’

Most of the wines tasted were 100% Sangiovese, but there were also blends with local and international partners. O’hare felt the likes of Colorino and Canaiolo were more successful than Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Of these two Bordeaux varieties, Merlot was preferred and Cabernet criticised. Garner explained: ‘Unless handled well, Sangiovese can seem a little tough and astringent. So Merlot can work by making the blend more soft, juicy and more appealing.’ waldin agreed, saying ‘Sangiovese and Cabernet is a strange and unwelcome mix as they have too much in common’.

Michael Garner Garner has worked in the wine industry for more than 30 years, specialising in Italian wine for more than 25 of them. He is the co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses, is a regular Decanter

contributor on Italian wine and has taught for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust.

Emily O’Hare O’Hare lives in Florence and is studying to become an Italian Ambassador of Wine at the Vinitaly International Academy. Formerly wine buyer/ head sommelier at London’s

River Café, she also worked the 2014 harvest in Italy. She is co-founder of the London Wine Sessions, and is a wine judge, educator and freelance writer.

Monty Waldin Waldin is the DWWA Regional Chair for Tuscany, who lives in the region for much of the year. He advises on biodynamics across the globe and is the author of Biodynamic wines, The Organic

wine Guide and Château Monty, a book which accompanied his 2007 TV documentary series of the same name following his biodynamic winemaking venture in Roussillon.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release, UK-available Chiantis priced between £8-£30, with all sub-regions and quality levels accepted

The scores81 wines tasted

Exceptional0

Outstanding0

Highly Recommended

8Recommended

39Commended

26Fair5

Poor0

Faulty3

The most curious result in the tasting was the way in which the ‘lesser’ wines shone brightest. ‘we had some very good Rùfinas and basic Chianti Classicos,’ said Michael Garner, who particularly liked the leaner style of Rùfina. all three tasters were underwhelmed by the riservas and gran seleziones, which had been expected to produce the best scores. ‘a lot were trying too hard,’ was Garner’s take. ‘They were forced and lacked elegance.’ waldin was also critical of some 2012 riservas. ‘You got the impression of a dry year with small berries and winemakers overdoing it. in that kind of vintage, you should just infuse rather than extract.’

On a more positive note, O’hare was impressed by the 2014s. Though wet, the vintage was saved by a fine autumn. She found the wines ‘gentle, charming, elegant and light’ and said that from a sommelier perspective they were very food friendly. Garner concurred. ‘They do have fairly high acidity, but set them in context – with food – and enjoy them when they’re young and fresh. These wines are delicious now and are not going to get better, so why wait?

Garner also felt that the more mature vintages were not necessarily preferable to their younger siblings, especially when there was more vivacity, lift and freshness. The other key point to mention, he added, was that these wines – especially the Rùfinas and Chianti Classicos, were always very good value for money. O’hare summed up for the panel: ‘i’d urge people to seek out these balanced, drinkable wines as they’ll provide great pleasure for not a lot of money.’

‘Wines we favoured showed lovely lacy tannins and clear red fruit freshness’ Monty Waldin

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Chianti £8-£30

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Bindi Sergardi, La Ghirlanda, Chianti Classico 2012Decanter average score: 91/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Michael Garner 90 Emily O’Hare 90 Monty Waldin 93

£12.95 From Vineyards Direct

Perfumed, with notes of leather, tobacco and aromatic herbs. This is an elegant wine with a lovely freshness and ripe, juicy red cherry fruit. Tannins are fine and beautifully integrated. Drink 2017-2022 Alcohol 13.5%

Lilliano, Ruspoli, Chianti Classico 2013 90 MG 90 EOH 89 MW 91

£17.50 Vini Italiani

Very pleasant aromas of toffee and cherries. Warm and round on the palate, with a good structure and delicious bramble fruit and blueberry flavours. This is a lovely wine which should continue to surprise us with time. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13.5%

Vicchiomaggio, San Jacopo, Chianti Classico 2014 90 MG 90 EOH 90 MW 90

£13.95-£14 Corking Wines, Wine Poole

Delicate fragrance of cherry and aromatic herbs. The palate is nicely balanced with ripe red fruits and a hint of spice. A very pleasant and long finish with a touch of salinity –mouthwatering. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13%

Castello di Querceto, I Columbi, Chianti Classico Riserva 2013 91 MG 94 EOH 88 MW 90

£16.99-£18.95 Buckingham Schenk, Drinkmonger

An expressive nose of cranberries, blueberries and bramble fruit. Spicy, ripe and juicy with notes of cedar and raspberries. This is a serious and elegant wine with a good structure and a long finish. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5%

Mazzei, Ser Lapo, Chianti Classico Riserva 2011 90 MG 90 EOH 90 MW 90

£25 Edencroft Fine Wines, Maisons Marques et

Domaines, Petersham Cellars, Roberts & Speight, Vi-vino

Wonderful ripe bouquet of forest fruit, ginger and delicate florals. Full and densely textured with mature, cedary black fruit. A seductive wine, fine intensity. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13.5%

Villa Trasqua, Chianti Classico 2012 90 MG 88 EOH 89 MW 93

£14-£17 Alexander Hadleigh, Ex-Cellar, Fullaloves,

Harperwells, Love Wines, Old Butchers Wine Cellar, Quaff,

Shaftesbury Wine, The Oxford Wine Co, Worcester Wine Co

Intense aromas of blackcurrant, bramble fruit and violets. Full in texture, the palate is rich and fruity with notes of thyme and eucalyptus on the very long finish. A delicious example of this vintage. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14%

Bindi Sergardi, Calidonia, Chianti Classico Riserva 2011 90 MG 89 EOH 92 MW 89

£16.95 From Vineyards Direct

A really attractive nose of wild black fruit and cherry blossom. Big and ripe palate full of cranberry, red cherry and raspberry flavours and a hint of cedarwood, spice and vanilla on the long and juicy finish. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5%

Selvapiana, Chianti Rùfina 2014 90 MG 90 EOH 90 MW 90

£13.50-£15.75 Carruthers & Kent, Drinkmonger,

Harvey Nichols, Highbury Vintners, In Vino Veritas, Liberty

Wines, Valvona & Crolla, Woodwinters

Delicate aromas of subtle herbs and oak. The palate is elegant and fresh with flavours of red berries, liquorice and plum to finish. Balanced, ripe, smooth tannins. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13%

➢

Highly Recommended 90–94pts

Recommended 86–89pts

Le Miccine, Chianti Classico Riserva 2012

89 89 89 90 Powerful nose of cherry and warm nutmeg and cinnamon spice. There is a lovely freshness on the palate, with lifted juicy black fruit flavours.

13% 2017-2022

£19.75 Bat & Bottle

Ormanni, Chianti Classico 2012

89 89 92 87 Aromas of cherry, cranberry, orange and a touch of spice. The palate is pleasant and fresh with intense juicy raspberry fruit leading to a long finish.

14% 2018-2022

£13.50-£14.50

Widely available via UK agent Vindependents

Poggerino, Bugialla, Chianti Classico Riserva 2012

89 88 92 87 Perfumed cherry and raspberry nose with delicate floral notes. Fresh and balanced palate of menthol, cherry and cedarwood. Classy and concentrated.

14.5% 2017-2022

£25.95 Lea & Sandeman

Querciabella, Chianti Classico Riserva 2011

89 88 92 87 Ripe red berry aromas with mint and spice. Deep flavours of blueberry, blackcurrant and sweet cherry. One that will improve over time.

14% 2018-2022

£12-£23 Armit, Millésima, Woodwinters

Wine Score MG EOH MW Tasting note Alc Drink Price Stockists

Don’t miss Decanter’s flagship Fine Wine EncounterSaturday 12th and Sunday 13th November 2016Join us for the highlight of the tasting calendar. Meet 100 of the world’s top producers and taste more than 600 fine wines.Book tickets today - see page 16 for more details

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TASTING MONTH

PUBLICATION PANEL TASTINGS

September 2016

Janaury 2017

• Champagne Rose• Top Wines of the Year• Margaret River Cabernet• Ribeira del Duero

October 2016

February 2017

• Californian Cabernet 2013• Loire Dry Chenin (AC & Vin de France)

November2016

March 2017

• AC Côtes du Rhône with the name of the communes• Rioja• Austrian tasting for supplement

December 2016

April 2017

• Champagne Rose• Top Wines of the Year• Margaret River Cabernet• Ribeira del Duero

January 2017

May 2017

• Barbera d’Asti• Brunello di Montalcino• Soave (expert choice)

February 2017

June 2017

• Australian Shiraz (£7.99-£20)• Muscadet Sèvre & Maine

March2017

July2017

• Langhe or Piedmont Nebbiolo (excl Barolo & Barbaresco)• Grower Champagne• Greece Assyrtiko (expert choice)

April 2017

August 2017

• White Rhône (criteria to be confirmed)• New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc• Top 50 Red Portugal

May 2017

September 2017

• Red Provence• Vermentino from Italy

June 2017

October 2017

• Chilean Carmenère• Argentina Red blend

July 2017

November 2017

• Amarone della Valpolicella• Top 50 Value Languedoc (tasting feature)• Galicia Mencia

August 2017

December 2017

• Red Beaune• Tawny Port• Victoria/Tasmania Chardonnay

September 2017

January 2018

• Vintage Champagne• Cornas-Hermitage-Côte Rôtie• Sweet wines (criteria to be confirmed)

Panel Tastings:Decanter publishes an average of two panel tastings per issue focusing on a different region or category. The tasting results are also featured on our website, www.decanter.com which receives 280k unique users and 800k page views per month.

We call in samples by liaising with the governing trade body of that region who will contact you, either directly or by featuring the request on their website/newsletter. If you are not a member of the governing trade body, please contact us and we will send you a request for samples directly.

We also contact UK importers and retailers to ensure they are aware of the tasting, who can then inform their producers/agencies accordingly. With the vast proportion of these tast-ings, it is not necessary to have a UK importer to enter your wines.

There is never any entry fee applied to these tast-ings. You just need to ensure all shipping, customs charges etc. are covered by yourselves; if not, you risk your wine not being tasted as we will not pay such fees.

Buying Guide

This section of the magazine highlights 25 wines available in the United Kingdom’s off-trade/retail sector. The wines need to retail at £20 and under per bottle.

These are wines chosen by Decanter Tastings Director, who have tasted them at trade or press tastings.

If you have a new wine on the UK market, please email us about it, with the retail price and stockist details. We will request a sample at our discretion.

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Weekday wines

Domaine Joel Delaunay, La Voûte, Touraine- Chenonceaux, Loire, France 2014 91

£14.99 Oddbins *

From a new appellation that overlooks the iconic Château Chenonceaux, this wine is a superb expression of Loire Sauvignon Blanc with exotic fruit and floral notes. The 21 hours’ skin maceration adds roundness and concentration but it’s in harmony with the zesty acidity which keeps the palate fresh and alive. Great personality at this price! Alc 13%

Innocent Bystander, Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia 2014 90£15 Oddbins * Phil Sexton has a reputation for producing classy and elegant Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. The welcoming subtle tropical fruit with floral edges opens up to juicy, fresh lemon peel on a creamy, textured palate. Has the finesse of Burgundy but at a fraction of the price. Alc 13%

Domaine des Trinités, L’Imaginaire Roussanne, Vin de France 2015 90£12.95 Lea & Sandeman

Following the dream, Brit Simon Coulshaw left his job in IT for a 24ha property in Faugères in Languedoc, and his first vintage was in 2007. This elegant, pure Roussanne has delicate floral and herbal tones on a textured palate. A great alternative to a pricier white Rhône. Alc 13%

Domaine Besson, Chablis, Burgundy France 2014 91£16.75 H2Vin

With Côte d’Or prices rocketing, Chablis remains one of the best- value Burgundy whites. This may be a generic Chablis, but it is full of personality with notes of grapefruit and flint. There are smoky undertones with ripe apple and subtle herbal notes. Dense and focus with a chalky minerality. Alc 12%

Blank Canvas, Gruner Veltliner, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013 91£16.99 Kirkness & Gorie, Noel Young

After more than 40 vintages as a flying winemaker, this is Matt Thomson’s first venture. While this GV is partly aged in new and used oak, you can hardly notice it, and the classic white pepper notes are well defined with the addition of citrus and peach. Zesty, elegant and light. Alc 13%

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim, Riesling, Rheinhessen Trocken, Germany 2013 90£10.50 Yapp Bros

Founded in 1900, this estate’s main function is as a teaching base for the wine region, with a particular expertise in Riesling. This is textbook: fresh and tangy acidity with delicate apricot and peach characters. Very enjoyable, offering plenty of depth. Alc 12.5%

Concha y Toro, Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay, Limari Valley, Chile 2013 90£12 Sainsbury’s * Concha y Toro saw the potential of Limari in 2005 and this Chardonnay is a great example. Forward tropical fruit but also elegance and purity with fine acidity. The 11 months in oak shows, but it’s in balance. Very enjoyable. Alc 13.5%

Weekday winesLooking to try something different or adventurous but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director, Christelle Guibert, has done the hard work for you by picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at under £20 – all UK-available

* denotes supermarket and high-street wines

Weekday wines

High street

choice

JULY_p108-1110 weekday wines.indd 108 17/05/2016 10:14

D E C A N T E R • J u l y 2 0 1 6 | 1 0 9

25 under £20

Château de Parenchère Bordeaux, France 2015 89£11.30 Peter Osborne

This 188ha estate (67ha planted with vines) dates back to 1570. A classic white Bordeaux blend, this has white stone- and citrus- fruit intensity from the fresh Sauvignon Blanc, complemented by a dash of Semillon for texture and roundness and Muscadelle for elegance. A very stylish and food-friendly wine. Alc 13.5%

The Menagerie, Exotic Collection, New Zealand 2014 89£7.79 Waitrose * An unusual yet intriguing blend of Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer sourced from both North and South Islands. It has an exotic, spicy, floral nose with a spiced baked apple palate. Great freshness supports the hint of sweetness and it’s tangy on the finish. Alc 12%

Domaine Maby, Prima Donna, Tavel, Rhône, France 2015 89£9.50 The Wine Society

This charming, full-bodied rosé from France’s only exclusively pink appellation is packed with ripe strawberry and red cherry fruits, and generous juiciness. A Grenache-Cinsault blend from old vines, it has sound acidity and good mid-palate weight, making it a nice, food-friendly wine. Alc 14.5%

De Martino, Viejas Tinajas Cinsault, Itata, Chile 2014 91£14.99 The Wine Shop, Ten Green

Bottles, Whole Foods Market

Old, dry-farmed, bush-vine Cinsault grapes are fermented and aged in ancient clay jars – tinajas. The result is scented sweet ’n’ sour cherry fruit, herb notes and an earthy hint. It’s a delicate, pretty wine showing fine complexity, dry tannins and a savoury finish. Alc 13%

Hofmann, Appenheimer, Spätburgunder, Rheinhessen, Germany 2013 92£18.50 Yapp Bros

Germany may be associated with Riesling, but it is actually the third biggest producer of Pinot Noir. This is a great example, with delicate raspberry and strawberry fruit and a floral hint, backed by silky tannins and fresh acidity. It may have spent 16 months in oak, but it is hardly noticeable. Alc 13%

Massey Dacta, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2015 8910.99 Majestic * A Massey Ferguson tractor is a ‘dacta’ according to the son of the owner here. This is a subtle style of Marlborough Sauvignon, with notes of lychee, pineapple, and flint. The round palate has mouthwatering acidity and a lingering finish of green fruit and lemon zest. Lovely! Alc 13%

Tim Martin, Chad Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa 2014 90£18.99 D Byrne & Co, Kirkness &

Gorie, The Wine Reserve

Martin gave up his City job in London to make wine in his homeland. From dry-farmed old bush vines in Paardeberg, this first vintage is fermented in big Austrian oak foudres. It’s easygoing with luscious peach fruit and fresh acidity. Alc 13%

Tahbilk, Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria, Australia 2014 90£10.99 Armit

The estate has the world’s largest single holding of Marsanne – and the vines (dating back to 1927) are among the oldest in the world. This is crisp and fresh with lemon curd, herb and restrained tropical notes. The textured palate has a soft honeysuckle breeze on the finish. Alc 12.9%

25 under £20

➢

SC Pannell, Touriga-Tempranillo, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2014 92

£17.99 Vagabond Wines

For wine drinkers who want something different! I love everything about this wine, starting with the bright and juicy perfumed plum and floral notes jumping out of the glass. It’s mid-weight in body with very smooth, ripe and textured blackberry fruit wrapped up by savoury tannins, and nutmeg spice on the finish. Sleek, elegant and delicious. Alc 14%

Must-tryred

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Weekday wines

Expert’s choice

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Penfolds, Bin 389, Cabernet-Shiraz 2013 93£37.50-£45 Cadman Fine Wines, Harrods,

Laithwaite’s, Philglas & Swiggot

51% Cabernet, 49% Shiraz from across South Australia. Chocolate, cassis and blueberry aromas with rich cinnamon and camphor spice. Plush and fleshy. The opulent 2012 is equally impressive. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14.5%

Yalumba, FDR1A, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Eden Valley 2011 92£22-£25 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Hangingditch,

Slurp, Wine Direct

71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Shiraz. Complex liquorice, mint, pepper, opulent cassis and cherry fruit tempered by savoury olive with finely polished oak. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14%

Jacob’s Creek, Johann, Shiraz- Cabernet, Barossa/Coonawarra 2010 89£38.35 Asda Wine Online, Amazon UK, Tesco Wine by

the Case

60% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet dark berry fruit vigour, infused with oak spice, mint and eucalyptus. Chunky tannins backed by a spine of acidity. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14.5%

Rockford, Rod & Spur, Cabernet-Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2011 93£34 Laithwaite’s, Vin Cognito

Blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Shiraz showing evolved aromatic complexity, yet still-youthful vigour. Supple, pure, dark cherry fruit, fine savoury balance and structure: age another 10 years. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14.5%

Yalumba, The Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2006 92£50-£55 Corking Wines, Laithwaite’s

Sweet black cherry aromas with notes of cedar, mint chocolate and smoky oak. Richly concentrated cassis and liquorice with supple-textured, mature tannins and a nice herbal freshness. Drink 2016-2023 Alc 14%

Penfolds, Bin 8, Cabernet-Shiraz 2012 89£15.95-£18.33 Drinkmonger, Harrods, Millésima,

Waitrose

57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Shiraz. First introduced in 2003 in response to revived interest in Cab-Shiraz blends. Rich and smoky with peppery spice, cassis and chocolatey oak. Savoury, mineral. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14.5%

Tapanappa, Whalebone Vineyard, Cabernet-Shiraz, Wrattonbully 2009 92£36 Edencroft

Mint and sage combine with polished liquorice oak spice and sweet black fruit. Rich, arguably with more flavour but less finesse than one of the rare French counterparts such as Domaine de Trévallon. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 15%

Yalumba, The Signature, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2012 91£27-£30 The Australian Wine Store, Waitrose

Attractive herb and cherry on the nose, then succulent and spicy, generously proportioned cherryish fruit softened by background vanilla oak and a leafy, earthy quality, with an elegant balancing freshness. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14%

Some Young Punks, Passion Has Red Lips, McLaren Vale/Clare Valley 2014 89£12.95 Drinkmonger, Hoults, Peter Graham, Portland

Wine Co, Slurp, Whole Foods, Woodwinters

Sensual McLaren Vale Cabernet and Clare Shiraz. Spicy scents and rich cassis, rounded by vanilla oak with savoury black olive notes and tannic finesse. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14%

CABeRneT-ShiRAz AnD ViCe versa is not only the classic Australian blend, but it is uniquely Australian in that it doesn’t defer to the Old World, or to anyone. Unconstrained by the red tape of appellation, the Australian winemaking tradition has exploited the cross-regional blend of the Bordeaux and Rhône grapes to combine their different virtues into a wine that, at its best, is greater than the sum of its parts.

if its image is traditional, it’s because in the most recent fashion cycle, Australia’s more precious vineyards have increasingly been used to produce single variety, single vineyard and Bordeaux or Rhône blends. ‘The demise of Cabernet-Shiraz blends has been led by

perception’, says Brian Croser, ‘as the surplus of those two varieties, mostly from the hot inland, irrigation-dependent vineyards, has been used to produce cheap wine.’ But a combination of two regions well suited to the two varieties, such as Coonawarra and Kalimna, [can] ‘produce something better than the components, nonetheless a terroir-driven wine’.

Penfolds’ 1962 Bin 60A Cabernet-Shiraz is regarded as the best red wine ever made in Australia. it was the product of dry land, low-yielding Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and Barossa Valley Shiraz. Croser recalls that similar vineyards were used by the likes of Stanley in the 1950s and then Thomas hardy, Orlando, Lindemans,

South Australian Cab-ShirazMaligned by some, the Cabernet-Shiraz blend remains a definitive Aussie style, says Anthony Rose, and it enjoys the backing of some of the country’s top winemakers

Expert’s choice

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Cabernet-Shiraz

Woodstock, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2011 89£12.86 Amathus, Inverarity Morton

This muscular blend of 60% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon shows attractive, fresh, herbal and spicy aromas, with a glossy texture of dark red berry fruits and approachable succulence, combining with a savoury balance and good grip. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.8%

Yalumba, The Scribbler, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2012 88£13-£16 Hennings, Noel Young, Majestic, Oddbins,

Slurp, The Australian Wine Store, The Solent Cellar

54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Shiraz. Leafy mint and juicy red and blackcurrant, nicely softened by a touch of French and American oak maturation. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.5%

Willunga 100, Cabernet-Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2014 87£11.99 Nickolls & Perks, Noel Young, Oz Wines, The

Wine Reserve

54% Cabernet, 46% Shiraz. Sweetly ripe and spicy blackcurrant aromas and a plump, soft mouthful of gluggy cherry and blackcurrant-sweet fruit with smooth-as tannins. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14%

Hollick, Stock Route, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Coonawarra/Wrattonbully 2012 88£13.45 Gerard Seel

Bright ruby, with aromas of cherry and plum, this 51% Coonawarra Cabernet and 49% Wrattonbully Shiraz blend has juicy, cherryish fruit, subtle vanilla oak, with a lively mulberry bite on the finish. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 14.5%

Penfolds, Koonunga Hill, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 87£9-£12.50 Widely available

This multi-regional 58% Shiraz, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon shows typically sumptuous sweet plum, herb and chocolate notes, an appetising balance of sweet, dark fruit and youthfully moulded tannins. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14%

Brookford, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, South Eastern Australia 2015 86£5.88-£6.95 Cambridge Wine, Connolly’s, The

Halifax Wine Co, The Wright Wine Co

All the bright and vivid strawberry and cassis you can hope for at this price. Oak hints bring a touch of spice to soften the primary tannins. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14%

Jim Barry, The Barry Bros, Shiraz-Cabernet, Clare Valley 2013 88£16-£17 Oddbins, The Australian Wine Store

Primary blackcurrant and mint aromas, attractively juicy, tinged with a touch of herb and mint. An all-round quaffable blend with just enough grip to make it a good barbecue, pasta and tapas red. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14%

Thorn-Clarke, Terra Barossa, Barossa Valley 2014 87£10.95-£12.99 AP Harvey, Denby Dale Wines,

Fintry, Frontier Fine Wines

51% Shiraz, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot. Fresh cassis and red fruit with a touch of eucalyptus. Juicy blackberry fruit with the Petit Verdot bringing a firm spine of acidity and tannins. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14%

Wakefield, Promised Land, Shiraz-Cabernet, Clare Valley 2014 86£7.50 The Wine Society

The Taylor family has come up with a moreish, affordable red: warm, berry fruit, touches of mint, juicy blackcurrant and plum, with a touch of liquorice spice and an appealing twist of fresh acidity. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5%

Anthony Rose is a Decanter World Wine Awards Regional co-Chair for Australia

‘The Great

Australian

Red Blend

is alive,

kicking and

boomeranging

back’

For full details of UK stockists, see p111

Seppelt, Yalumba and Tahbilk to produce small quantities of great Cabernet-Shiraz. Jacob’s Creek chief winemaker Ben Bryant says: ‘Shiraz-Cabernet helped lead the expansion of Australian wines into export markets around the world.’

Penfolds’ Peter Gago says that ‘its many styles remain contemporary and real, reaching new audiences with each successive generation’, and that ‘there still isn’t a market in the world where we can satisfy demand for Penfolds’ Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz’. Bryant believes that ‘by capturing the structure and texture of Cabernet, and overlaying it with the suppleness and generosity of Shiraz, the style still resonates to this day’. Croser agrees that stylistically the two varieties blend well because ‘while Cabernet retains life and freshness…its legendary “hole in the middle” is filled texturally by the sweet fruit of Shiraz’.

Yalumba’s Robert Hill Smith is certain that the tradition of this ‘quintessentially, unique Australian style’ is supported by the market. If those at the fine wine level are dismissive of the commercial style as lacking a sense

of place, it’s undoubtedly true that all the make-up in the world can’t disguise the mediocre quality of some blends, which can be thin, acidic or overoaked. But there are attractive, affordable wines in the category too.

With the exception of 2011 and 2014 (the jury is still out on 2015), recent vintages since 2008 have been relatively kind to the style. Croser sees Cabernet-Shiraz blends making a comeback through a few well-suited regions including Mount Barker in Western Australia, Coonawarra, Wrattonbully and the Mount Barker area in South Australia, and the Grampians in western Victoria: ‘In those regions both varieties excel, but the combination of both is better than the individual varieties.’ It’s no coincidence that Penfolds’ 2008 Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet-Shiraz recently became the first Australian red wine to sell for more than A$1,000 (£500) at release. The message is clear: The Great Australian Red Blend is alive, kicking and boomeranging back. D

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This is a selection of 18 wines, all available in the UK’s off-trade/retail sector. It focuses on a particular region and/or category with wines chosen by an acknowledged expert on that area.

The wines are usually selected at a UK trade tasting attended by the writer in question, sometimes supplemented by wines that the writer has tasted elsewhere. Occasionally the wines are chosen during a visit to the wine region in question or at a tasting organised by Decanter.

Expert’s Choice

AUSTRALIA

THEY SAY BEAUTY is in the eye of the beholder. So it is with wine and balance.

During the 1990s and the 2000s, ultra-ripe, full-bodied Australian reds that were big in everything – fruit, tannin, alcohol and oak – won global acclaim. Leading a return towards greater restraint in Australian warm-climate reds, Yangarra Estate’s Peter Fraser is taking a leaf from 1970s classics like Wendouree, ‘whose framework was not about big rich fruit, but tannin and acidity’. Ringing the 180˚ changes, he says: ‘We’re now walking a tightrope of acidity, not sugar.’

He’s not the only winemaker to use circus high-wire analogies to describe this stylistic shift seen mainly in Grenache and Shiraz. Fellow innovators in South Australia’s McLaren Vale speak of ‘a tension between intensity, power and elegance’ (Stephen Pannell of SC Pannell) with ‘energy and nervous tension being the main aim’ (Taras Ochota, Ochota Barrels).

Will this shift make the strongman wines redundant? Of course not. Bold, rich, ripe Shiraz from the likes of Torbreck deserve their place at the table. Nonetheless, as its founder Dave Powell once told me: ‘You don’t want to eat steak every night.’ Pannell rams this point home with a rhetorical question: ‘The most local things I eat

Style shift inAustralian redsThere will always be a place for big, burly Barossa Shiraz

and high-octane McLaren Vale Grenache, says Sarah Ahmed.But following a visit Down Under, it’s clear that restraint, tension

and balance are the new buzzwords in these warm-climate regions

Below: Grapes bask in the afternoon sunshine in McLaren Vale, which enjoys a Mediterranean climate

JULY_p064-68 aussie style changes.indd 64 12/05/2016 11:40

D E C A N T E R • J u l y 2 0 1 6 | 6 5

AUSTRALIA

Above: Yangarra Estate’s Peter Fraser says the new style of Australian reds now ‘walks a tightrope of acidity, not sugar’

the concept of ‘warm-climate Pinot Noir’ in 2010, when the strong Australian dollar had unleashed a spending spree on European wines, especially Burgundy. Irked that his country had become a net importer of wines over A$20 (then about £13), Pannell challenged his peers to push boundaries, take a risk and ‘go into the 2011 vintage with the idea fresh in our minds that if the wines we like to drink aren’t out there, we can make them’.

Visionary though this was, even Pannell couldn’t have foreseen how the atypically cool, wet 2011 vintage’s fresher, lighter reds would facilitate the step-change to which Yangarra’s Fraser alluded with his tightrope analogy.

Ministry of Clouds’ Forwood told me: ‘Old-timers say you should pick Grenache late when flavour really kicks in. But when it starts to lose its juicy freshness we think you miss its beauty, so we pick when the grapes are still in this phase to retain acid and aromatics.’

Barossa Rhône-blend specialist Abel Gibson of Ruggabellus picks Grenache on the ‘tea-leaf, sweaty sock, smoky spectrum’ in pursuit of vivid pomegranate and cranberry flavours. ‘They’re on the crunchy end of pinosity [Pinot Noir-like freshness, spice and delicacy], because we like Gamay,’ he says.

Sami-Odi’s Fraser McKinley is another fan of Gamay and has this crunchy Beaujolais style in mind when working with the Barossa’s most famous grape, Shiraz. In 2015 he started picking his Shiraz on 16 February when, ‘elsewhere, fruit was still green and had not even finished veraison’ [the onset of ripening, when the colour of the berries changes

Below: Toby Bekkers says the solution to finding balance in Australia’s reds, such ashis own McLaren Vale Syrah, is ‘taking some of the density out and putting fragrance, spice and texture in’

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are squid and garfish. Which 15% Shiraz works with that?’

The solution is, as Toby Bekkers of Bekkers Wine in McLaren Vale puts it: ‘Taking some of the density out and putting fragrance, spice and texture in.’ It’s a solution that has seen sensual but structured warm-climate reds from McLaren Vale and the Barossa in South Australia plus Hunter Valley in New South Wales give cool-climate Shiraz and Pinot Noir a run for their money. As one Melbourne restaurateur told Julian Forwood, owner of McLaren Vale newcomer Ministry of Clouds: ‘Grenache delivers what Pinot promises.’

Forward thinkingGrenache has undergone an especially dramatic transformation from the simple, high-alcohol, lolly-like reds of old to the slim, serious wines of today. American Master Sommelier Richard Betts describes these new-wave, red-fruited Grenache wines from top sites (invariably sandy, with old vines), like his new Barossa label Sucette, as having ‘high-toned aromatics, finesse and allure’.

Although Betts and others reference Château Rayas, the iconic 100% Grenache Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it’s easy to see why this variety is being dubbed ‘warm-climate Pinot Noir’ – or, referring to its comparatively democratic price point, ‘blue-collar Pinot’. What’s more, like Pinot Noir, Grenache is very sensitive to site, hence Clarendon Hills using Cru, Premier Cru and Grand Cru to categorise its six site-driven McLaren Vale Grenaches.

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JULY_p064-68 aussie style changes.indd 65 12/05/2016 11:07

The vast majority of features in Decanter are written by freelance journalists. Some of the writers are based in or near the region being covered; others visit the region regularly and have a good knowledge of its wines, and a network of contacts there.

It is a good idea to establish a relationship with the key correspondents on your wine region, as the choice of wines recommended within any feature is entirely down to the writer him or herself.

You could send them information about your winery, samples of new releases, or simply keep them up-to-date with your news.

We do not give out writers’ contact details, but will forward on an email of introduction if you contact the editorial team.

Recommendations within Features

This section of the website hosts cut-down articles featured in the magazine as well as unique content, including a weekly updated list of wines under three categories; value, classic and discovery. There is also weekly focus on a particular region, style or grape variety. Every month Decanter.com updates a list of ‘crowd-pleaser’ wines ideal for weddings and parties. These are wines selected from UK Trade shows and occasionally panel tastings. They tend to retail at below £15 and are aimed at capturing the imagination of wine drinkers looking for inspiration as well as advice.

Wine Recommendations on www.decanter.com

The Decanter Asia Wine Awards has been specifically designed as an Asian competition for Asian consumers. With more than 2,500 wines entered in 2012’s inaugural event, it has already become Asia’s largest wine competition.

Results are published on www.decanter.com

Entries open in May and there is an entry fee to be paid per wine. More information on www.decanter.com/enter

Decanter Asia Wine Awards

2 8 | D W W A 2 0 1 5 • D E C A N T E R

2015

GOLD

INTERNATIONAL TROPHY

For tasting notes of all wines, plus prices and stockists, see Decanter.com/dwwa

international trophies

A RICH AND eclectic mix of grape varieties, styles and origins made the shortlist for this International Trophy, but in the end a classic South African barrel-fermented Chenin Blanc was the winner. Our judges remarked on its latent richness and creamy, ripe fruit, undercut by decent acidity and great length.

That’s in line with the aim of Perdeberg cellarmaster Albertus Louw to produce a ‘rich and ripe’ style of Chenin, sourced from a single, dry-grown vineyard and fermented in 500-litre French oak barrels.

Perdeberg has accumulated a large collection of old-vine Chenin in the Agter-Paarl area, viewed as the ideal region for the variety. The bush vines remain unirrigated, producing small, concentrated berries out of deep soils with good water retention – a vital quality when you’re waiting for full ripeness before harvest.

This is a place of wet, cold winters and dry, warm summers. But even when the heat is at

its most pronounced, the temperature drops significantly in the evenings, giving acidity and balance to the wines. Meanwhile, granite soils help boost acidity, while the high clay content lends structure and backbone.

Tasted againstDomaine Martin, Monnières-St-Fiacre, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France 2010 • Finca de los Arandinos, Viero, Rioja, Spain 2013 • Monsoon Valley, Colombard, Hua Hin Hills, Thailand 2014 • Mount Pleasant, Elizabeth Semillon, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Australia 2007 • Quinta de Serrade, Terras de Monção Alvarinho, Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal 2014 • Terrazze della Luna, Nosiola, Trentino, Italy 2014 • Tsiakkas, Xynisteri, Limassol, Cyprus 2014

Above: Albertus Louw is the winemaker at Perdeberg – a specialist in dry-farmed, old-vine Chenin

International Trophy winnerWhite Single-Varietal under £15Perdeberg, The Dry Land Collection, Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc, Paarl, South Africa 2013 (13.5%)

What a wonderful expression of Cape Chenin Blanc! For the price, this over-delivers on complexity and intensity, with a fleshy nose of mango, nectarine and a veil of white pepper. There’s a really pleasing, flinty attack to the palate which possesses a concentrated middle, then layers of cream, nuts, honey and peach.Not available in the UK or USA

DWWA_p019-31 international trophies 28 6/17/15 2:42 PM

D E C A N T E R • D W W A 2 0 1 5 | 2 9

international trophies

For tasting notes of all wines, plus prices and stockists, see Decanter.com/dwwa

➢

YEs, A TRophY for Müller-Thurgau. This is a grape that has largely fallen from favour in Germany and New Zealand, but grown on the Fennberg plateau at 1,000m, surrounded by the Alps, it has proven its quality.

The wine is named after Franz philipp Freiherr von Fenner zu Fennberg, founder of the Austrian Kaiserjäger (the emperor’s soldiers), who used the hofstatt estate on the Fennberg mountain as a summer residence.

herbert Tiefenbrunner, father of current winery owner Christof, used to spend his summer holidays on the estate and, inspired by a vine growing along the wall of the house, decided to plant a vineyard on the site.

Why Müller-Thurgau? herbert figured that its tendency to flower late and ripen early would protect it from bad weather at either end of the growing season. The vineyard, a steep 15km drive from the Tiefenbrunner winery, enjoys a thermal advantage from being planted on a plateau, rather than steep

slopes – all the more so because the vines are south-facing. Meanwhile, the Alps offer protection from the harsh northerly wind, and there is an additional warming effect from the ora wind from Lake Garda.

herbert died at the age of 87 in April this year – before he could see his beloved wine win this International Trophy.

Tasted againstArgyros, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece 2014 • Grace, Koshu Private Reserve, Yamanashi, Chubu, Japan 2014 • Gross, Furmint, Stajerska, Podravje, Slovenia 2013 • Pazo Señorans, Selección de Añada, Rías Baixas, Spain 2007 • Rabl, Käferberg Alte Reben, Kamptal, Niederösterreich, Austria 2013 • Soalheiro, Alvarinho, Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal 2014 • Szent Tamás, Dongó, Tokaj, Hungary 2013 • Tempus Two, Zenith Semillon, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Australia 2007

Above: Christof Tiefenbrunner and his wife Sabine; Christof’s late father Herbert founded the estate

International Trophy winnerWhite Single-Varietal over £15Tiefenbrunner, Feldmarschall von Fenner zu Fennberg, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy 2013 (13%)

An absolutely stunning Müller-Thurgau, run through with class and charm, its minty, floral nose graced with clementine, yellow plum, spice, lavender and white pepper. It’s lithe, long and extraordinarily pure, with bracing acidity and penetrating flavours of green apples, thyme and a deliciously cleansing, vital finish.£23.99 Armit Wines

DWWA_p019-31 international trophies 29 6/17/15 2:42 PM

The Decanter World Wine Awards, which was launched in 2004, is one of the world’s largest and most influential wine competitions. The competition receives entries from more than 47 countries each year, and received over 16000 entries in 2016.

The results are published in a dedicated, Decanter World Wine Awards issue, available in stores from July and will be on sale for at least ten weeks. The results will also be published on www.decanter.com.

Entries open at the beginning of each January and there is an entry fee to be paid per wine. More information on www.decanter.com/enter

Decanter World Wine Awards

Tastings team for panel tastings and weekday wines:

Tasting Team for panel tastings: decanter_tasting@decanter.com

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