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SWAN y x w cN cN cN cN S N t x y cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions) = relative frequency = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation - wave breaking - bottom dissipation - nonlinear wave-wave interactions SWAN accounts for shoaling, diffraction, partial transmission, and reflection. = wave action density (energy density / relative frequency) Ris and L.H. Holthuijsen, 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part I, Model description and validat J.Geoph.Research, 104, C4, 7649-7666. Ris and L.H. Holthuijsen, 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part II, Model description and valida J.Geoph.Research, 104, C4, 7649-7666. sma, IJ.G., Holthuijsen, L.H., Kieftenburg, A.T.M.M., Ris, R.C., van der Westhuysen, A.J., and Zijlema, M. (2004). SWAN Cycle III version 40.41 User Manual, Delft University of

SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions) = relative frequency = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

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Page 1: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

SWANyx w

c Nc N c N c N SN

t x y

cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions) = relative frequency = wave direction

S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation - wave breaking - bottom dissipation - nonlinear wave-wave interactions

SWAN accounts for shoaling, diffraction, partial transmission, and reflection.

N = wave action density (energy density / relative frequency)

Booij, N., R.C. Ris and L.H. Holthuijsen, 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part I, Model description and validation, J.Geoph.Research, 104, C4, 7649-7666.Booij, N., R.C. Ris and L.H. Holthuijsen, 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, Part II, Model description and validation, J.Geoph.Research, 104, C4, 7649-7666.Booij, N., Haagsma, IJ.G., Holthuijsen, L.H., Kieftenburg, A.T.M.M., Ris, R.C., van der Westhuysen, A.J., and Zijlema, M. (2004). SWAN Cycle III version 40.41 User Manual, Delft University of Technology.

Page 2: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

SWAN User's manual

http://swanmodel.sourceforge.net/online_doc/swanuse/swanuse.html

Page 3: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - to run SWAN by itselfSWAN is driven by a

series of 'KEYWORDS' in the

input file.

'PROJECT''MODE'

'SET''CGRID'

'READGRID'

etcetc

Projects/Inlet_Test/Swanonly/swan_inlet_test.in

Page 4: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Keywords: Start-up

Page 5: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Keywords: model description

Page 6: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Keywords: model description

Page 7: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Keywords: Output and Run

Page 8: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - control commandsPROJECT - 4 text lines

SET - DEPMIN to be same as Dcrit - INRHOG 1 !!!!!! - NAUTICAL !!!!

COORDINATES - SPHERICAL or CARTESIAN

MODE NONSTAT TWOD

Page 9: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - computational gridCGRID and READGRID: Defines the computational grid in x, y, freq, and theta space.

Page 10: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - input gridsINPGRID and READINP: Input grid for variables of bottom, waterlevel, currents, winds, etc.

This is for the BOTTOM (bathymetry)

Page 11: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - to run SWAN by itselfINPGRID and READINP: Input grid for variables of bottom, waterlevel, currents, winds, etc.

This is an example for WIND

We typically use IDLA = 4

Page 12: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - Boundary inputsBOUND SHAPEBOUND SIDE or BOUND SEGMENT

Page 13: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - Boundary inputsBOUND SHAPEBOUND SIDE or BOUND SEGMENT

THIS command uses I J indices along a segment

Page 14: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - Boundary inputsBOUND SHAPEBOUND SIDE or BOUND SEGMENT

THIS command uses X Y indices along a segmentwith input files

Page 15: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

TPAR file

Lists the date, Hsig, Period, Direction, and Spreading factor

Page 16: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - Init files

Can start SWAN with data from an init file.This file can be created from a STATIONARY run.

Page 17: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - Physics

Page 18: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Input file - Output and run

start dt end

Can make this as STATIONARY, then don’t need start:dt:endto get init conditions files.

Page 19: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

How to create a SWAN application

1) cppdefs.h 2) grids 3) wind forcing 4) boundary conditions 5) INPUT 6) coawst.bash 7) run it

Page 20: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

1) cppdefs.h

just do SWAN MODEL for now

will ad refined grid later

Page 21: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

2) gridscreate_roms_xy_grid

1) you can use the CGRID Regular command

or

2) create a ROMS grid using any of the tools mentioned before, then runroms2swan(x, y, depth, mask)

for example, the bottom of the create_roms_xy_gridcalls to roms2swan. This creates 2 files:

grid_coord.grd (goes with READGRID COORDS)swan_bathy.bot (goes with READINP BOTTOM)

Page 22: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

3) wind forcingCan use Tools\mfiles\mtools\narr2romsnc.mAt the end of this file, it creates the wind forcing file for SWAN.Need to add this wind file name to READINP WIND.

Page 23: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

4) boundary conditions - TPAR

Can use Tools\mfiles\swan_forc\ww3_swan_input.mTo read WW3 model output and create SWAN TPAR boundary forcing files.

Page 24: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

5) INPUT

Projects/Inlet_Test/Swanonly/swan_inlet_test.in

Page 25: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

6) coawst.bash7) run it

Build it by setting the Project name and paths in the coawst.bash.

Run it by call to coawstM, but now need to explicitly state input file name

mpiexec -np 4 ./coawstM Projects/Inlet_test/Swanonly/swan_inlet_test.in

Page 26: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

SWAN with grid refinement

#define SWAN_MODEL #define REFINED_GRID comile with nested_grids = 2 (or however

many) need 2 (or more) INPUT files. mpirun -np X ./coawstM

Projects/Inlet_test/Swanonly/swan_inlet_test.in

Projects/Inlet_test/Swanonly/swan_inlet_test_ref5.in

Page 27: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

SWAN Coupling

Interactions to ocean and atm models.

This will happen in you

#define SWAN_MODEL

and one more of:

#define ROMS_MODEL

#define WRF_MODEL

Page 28: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WAV interactions

1) Generation – wind speed forcingis modified by ocean currents:

S(w) = f( Uwind – us ; Vwind – vs )

us, vs, , bath, Z0

Uwind , V

wind

WAV

OCN

ATM

2) Propagation

yx wc Nc N c N c N SN

t x y

– wave celerity in geographic space is modified by ocean currents cx = cgx + us ; cy = cgy + vs

, sin cos cos sin cos sin sin cossinh 2g

h h U U V VC

kh x y x y x y

– change of wave direction (refraction) due to , bathy, and currents:

Page 29: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

To activate these processes in SWAN

Need to activate CURRENT

WLEVFRIC

to get data from ROMS

No READINP since this datais coming from ROMS

Need to activate WIND

to get data from WRF

Grid dims don’t really matter. It gets the data from the other model

thru MCT.

Page 30: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

OCN interactionsWAVE

Hwave, Lmwave, Lpwave, Dwave,Tpsurf, Tmbott, Qb, Dissbot, Disssurf, Disswcap, Ubot

OCN

Hwave, Lmwave, Dwave,Tpsurf, Qb, Dissbot, Disssurf, Disswcap,

Water column

Stokes + VF

Hwave, Lpwave, Dwave, Tpsurf,

Hwave, Lmwave, Dwave,Tmbott, Ubot

Surface stress Bottom stress

s= f ( Zos ) Zoa

b = f ( Zob )

#define WEC_VF

#define CRAIG_BANNER#define CHARNOKor#define ZOS_HSIG#define TKE_WAVEDISS #define SSW_BBL

Hwave, Lpwave, Dwave, Tpsurf,

Surface tke flux

#define COARE_OOST#define COARE_TAYLOR_YELLAND#define DRENNANCRAIG_BANNER (default)

Page 31: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

ATM interactions

OCN

ATM

WAV

SST

Hwave , L

pwave ,

Tpsurf ,

Sur

face

flu

xes

Momentum

Heat

Moisture

= f ( Hwave, Lpwave, Tpsurf )

SST OCN

WAV

Page 32: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

SURFACE ROUGHNESS CLOSURE MODELSCurrently only in MYJSFC and MYNN

TAYLOR & YELLAND 2001: TY2001 (#define COARE_TAYLOR_YELLAND)

DRENNAN 2003: DGQH (#define DRENNAN)

OOST 2002: OOST (#define COARE_OOST)

4.50 1200ms p

s

zH L

H

- Wave steepness based parameterization.- Based on three datasets representing sea-state conditions ranging from strongly forced to shoaling.

3.40*3.35m

ps

zu C

H

4.50*

25.0mp

p

zu C

L

- Wave age dependent formula but it also considers the effect of the wave steepness.

- Wave age based formula to characterize the ocean roughness. - They combined data from many field experiments representing a variety of condition and grouped the data as a function of the wind friction velocity.

0

*

*

significant wave height

ocean surface roughness

wind friction velocity

peak wave celerity

peak wave length

wave age

s

p

p

p

H

z

u

C

L

u

C

CHARNOCK 1955 (default)

2*0

0.011m

uz

g

Page 33: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Applications

- Nor Ida (Nov 2009) (waves)

http://www.hpc.ncep.noaa.gov/dailywxmap/

Page 34: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

Nor’Ida Nov 2009

Bodie Island, NC

Wallops Island, VA

LL

LL

HH

8th Nov8th Nov

9th Nov9th Nov

10thNov10thNov

11thNov11thNov

13thNov13thNov

wind speed23 m/s (50 mph)

wind speed23 m/s (50 mph)

Before

Before

After

Afterhttp://

coastal.er.usgs.gov/hurricanes/norida/

Wav

e h

eigh

ts (m

)

wind speed40 m/s (90 mph)

wind speed40 m/s (90 mph)

Page 35: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

OCEAN

ATMOSPHERE

WAVE

us, vs, , bath

Hsig, Lwave, Dwave,Tsurf, Tbott,Qb, Wdissip, Ub

MCT

Uwind, Vwind, P

atm, R

H, Tair,

cloud, ra

in, SW

rad, LW

rad, LHeat,

SHeat

SST

MCT

Uwind,

Vwind

MCT

WRF wind speed

LongitudeLa

titud

e

ROMS SSTSWAN Hsig

COAWST (Coupled Ocean – Atmosphere – Wave – Sediment Transport) Modeling System

Hsig, L

wave , ,

Twave ,

Page 36: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

SST

WRF + ROMS + SWANWRF + ROMSWRFGOES

Page 37: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WRF

WINDSWRF + ROMS + SWAN m/sWRF + ROMS

S

0.850.780.89

DATAWRF

WRF+ROMSWRF+ROMS+SWAN

Reduced wind speed with waves coupling.

Page 38: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WAVESWRF

WRF + SST +OOST WRF + SST

DATAWRF

WRF+ROMSWRF+ROMS+SWAN

WRF + ROMS + SWANWRF + ROMSWRF

S

0.800.740.88

m

Reduced waves with waves coupling.

Page 39: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WRF +SST + OOST m/s

SST + WRF

WINDSWRF + SST + TY2001 WRF + SST + DGQH

DATAWRF

WRF+ROMS W+R+S (DGQH)W+R+S (TY2001)W+R+S (OOST)

NAM

(TY)WRF + ROMS + SWAN( )

(OOST)

WRF + ROMS

(DGQH)

Reduced wind speed with waves coupling.OOST best.

Page 40: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WRF + SST +OOST m

WAVES

DATAWRF

WRF+ROMS W+R+S (DGQH)W+R+S (TY2001)W+R+S (OOST)

NAM

WRF + ROMS

WRF + SST + TY2001 WRF + SST + DGQH(TY)

WRF + ROMS + SWAN( )(OOST) (DGQH)

Reduced wave heights with waves coupling.OOST best.

Page 41: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WRF + SST + DGQH

SURFACE CURRENTS

WRF + ROMS (charnock)

m/s

m/s

WRF + SST + TY2001WRF + SST + OOST (TY)WRF + ROMS + SWAN( )

(OOST) (DGQH)

CODARIncreased current speed with waves coupling.

TY / DGQH best.

Page 42: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WRF + SST + DGQH

SURFACE CURRENTS

WRF + ROMS (charnock)

m/s

(TY)WRF + ROMS + SWAN( )

(OOST) (DGQH)

CODAR

RMSE (m/s) 0.24

RMSE (m/s) 0.14RMSE (m/s) 0.13RMSE (m/s) 0.26

Mod

el c

urre

nts

(m/s

)

CODAR currents (m/s) CODAR currents (m/s) CODAR currents (m/s)Increased current speed with waves coupling.

TY / DGQH best.

Page 43: SWAN cx, cy = propagation velocities (x- and y- directions)  = relative frequency  = wave direction S = source/sink term for: - wind-wave generation

WRF+ SST + OOST m

WRF

STORM SURGE

DATAWRF

WRF+ROMS W+R+S (DGQH)W+R+S (TY2001)W+R+S (OOST)

WRF + ROMS

(TY)WRF + ROMS + SWAN( )

(OOST) (DGQH)

Increased surge with waves coupling.TY / DGQH best?