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Instruction Manual for 1/12 and 1/6 scale Warning : Protect Board from electrostatic discharge. Ground yourself before handling.Protect bottom of board from shorting against anything metal. If using metal screws in the corner holes to mount the board, be sure to use insulated washers between the board and mounting area.

Battery warning: Please use fresh 9v battery with your kit. Batteries marked Heavy Duty are misleading, they have less power and do not last as long as alkaline batteries. Symptoms of a low battery is the sound board not operating properly. Sounds of clicking or incomplete phrases spoken means it is time to change the battery, even though all your lighting is working. The light board and LEDs use less power, so they are unaffected by the low battery. Some users have found brand new batteries that were bad, perchasing another battery solved their problem. If you replace your battery and find sound problems, please try another fresh battery. Take care when dealing with wired soldered joints, bending them too many times could break them off.

READ ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE STARTING. Starling Technologies wants to thank you for using our products. We strive to provide you with the most awesome effects possible to bring your finished project to life.

From the Hit series Lost in Space, Starling Proudly introduces our Plug-N-Play B9 Robot Life Force LED and Sound Effect kit for the PL/Aurora B9 model. We go E/FX all the way with this kit.This complete kit features Robots voice box red LED synchronized to 17 phrases provided by a high quality sound card. Blinking lights are included for fiber optics to light buttons on chest panel and various areas inside the bubble.

Just plug in some connectors, 9 volt battery, and slide power switch on, no soldering required. With each press of the button, B9 speaks 1 of 17 phrases, some of which refer to Dr. Smith and Will Robinson. Wait for each phrase to complete before trying to activate the next, you will not be able to interrupt the phrase while in progress. This is as simple as a Lighting kit can be.Circuits may be installed in models provided stand.

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Effect Features:(New optional RC for voice activation is available.)1x 5mm red LED that flashes in sync with sound board to phrases.4x 3mm white flashing LEDs to add effects for Robots chest and bubble fiber optics.

Included in Kit: 1 x Fully assembled B9 Robot Life Force Kit 1 x sound board with speaker. Wired LED and required connectors. 1x Voice tube. Fiber Optics.Plastic tubing 1 PDF manual emailed after purchase.

16 or 1/6 scale kits starts on Pg.16.Information about Moebius 1/6 scale starts on Pg. 16

Section 1 : Connections: Board Structure.

Getting Started. Please use your model instruction manual with this guide.

Warning : do not use hot glue on Fiber optics, it will melt the Strands.

Always test your effect before making anything permanent.

Reset Button First things first. On the sound board, you will notice a pushbutton connected to 2 blue wires. This is a Reset Button. If while B9 Effect is turned on, and you have cycled through some of the effects, then you turn power off, only to turn effect back on again right away, the sound board does not have enough time to reset. It will play the next phrase, which is out of sync with the voice box. To correct this:1) Turn off power.2) Press and hold reset for 2 seconds.3) Turn power back on. Everything is back in sync.This is only a problem if you turn B9 off and back on within 2 minutes, as the sound board takes a certain amount of time to reset.

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Photo1 Reset button on sound board.

Board Structure:

Photo2 Board Structure.

Your kit comes fully assembled. If you need to disconnect some of the connections to pass them through drilled holes in stand, take note of the orientation of the connectors before disconnecting. Dont worry if you forget, use the above Photo2 and info provided below.

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Photo 3.

J1) + - connection : This connection has a soldered 9v battery connector with switch.J2)BWWB: This area of the board contains 4 white LEDs to light the Fiber Optics for chest and bubble.

Photo4. Voice box.

J3)Talk: The single Red LED is for the voice box. The included voice tube needs to be painted.Mask off the area that will face forward of robots voice box. Mask off end that LED attaches to. Paint several coats of white paint, this will spread the red light, then paint black to help light block. Test with led and paint as needed. LED may fit snug in light box, do not glue to LED until you are sure you are ready.

J4) Button: You do no have to worry about the orientation of this connection. Plug it into J4 either way. Each press of the button activates 1 of Robots programmed phrases.

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Photo5.

J5) Sound: this connection is for the sound board connector. Marked + - S. That is, Red Black and white wire. Make sure you note the orientation.

Section 2: Drilling & Fiber Optics.

.5mm and 1mm Fiber optics are provided. You will require multiple colors of clear paint to paint the ends. Do not use hot glue or super glue to secure, it will melt the FO.

Drill a hole slightly larger than the size of the Fiber optic. To mushroom the end of a fiber strand, very quickly touch the end to a hot surface such as a soldering iron, or an electric stove burner. Do it very quickly multiple times until you achieve a size too large to pass through the drilled hole.

B9 reference Photo. You may also want to refer to youtube.comfor video reference to achieve the best effect. In the search, type b9 robot.

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Photo6.

Comparing B9 to Robby.You will need to dry fit Robot and see where you need to drill holes to allow the voice box LED and Fiber optic strands to pass through. Start at one of the feet and work your way up. If you are using the included model stand or a custom stand, line up the holes with the foot. Refer to Robbys manual. It is very similar.

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Photo7.

Photo8.Steves Build info Ok I took accurate measurements of the FO lenghts needed (with about 1 inch fudge)

FO for star: 11 1/4 X 6FO for lower chest: 8.5" X 12

FO for dual chest lights: 9" X 2

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Photo9.

Photo9a.

Be sure to test your Light blocking. You may need to light block FO strands in certain areas where they pass through the bubble. Always test before making anything permanent. 1mm FO is provided for the 2 large knobs on robots chest. Mushroom the end of FO and test size. You may want to drill the knobs out completely and fill with a clear epoxy or Micro Kristal Klear. Cut extra fiber optic to allow it to reach the LEDs at J2. Be sure to attach 1 FO to B and the other FO to the other B so that they blink alternately. You may attach the 2 shallow 1/8 white tubing behind the knobs for easier FO placement.

Arrange the circuits in a way to make the FO installation as easy as possible. Steve used the setup on Photo9a. Do this before cutting strands, if you change your mind later, after cutting strands, and decide to shuffle the circuits around, the strands may no longer reach the LEDs.

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Photo9b.

In the center, where there are 14 square buttons, drill them out and use clear epoxy or Micro Kristal Klear, refer to Photo 6 for colors, then paint each button with Tamiya or Testors clear paints or just leave them solid and paint each square. No fiber optics are required in this area, but be sure to route any fiber optics strands behind this area to allow it to lightly glow. The lower 12 small knobs need to be drilled out. Use a drill bit a little larger than the FO strand. You do not need to drill all holes, you may randomly paint some of the buttons and leave them unlit. Mushroom .5mm FO, paint with Tamiya or Testors clear paints(Refer to Photo6), and pull through each knob, the mushroom should keep it from coming through. Leave enough extra FO to reach J2) LEDs and give you some slack for easy building. After you are sure of the FO length, use clear epoxy or Micro Kristal Klear on back side of panel to hold the strands from backing out. We will attach the strands to the LEDs in another section.

Photo10.

Organize your FO strands to keep things neat and manageable. Remember to leave yourself extra FO length to make work more manageable.

Photo10a.

Use clear epoxy on the inside of chest to hold the FO in place.

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Voice-box: Refer to Photo9b and temporarily place The Voice box to find the best position. Glue in place when you are ready. Check your light blocking.

Photo10b.

Bubble: Gather all the parts for inside the head and bubble. Drill where you need to pass the FO through. Depending on the size of the lights you want in this area, you may not need to mushroom the FO. Make sure you Leave enough extra FO to reach J2) LEDs and give you some slack for easy building. After you are sure of the FO length, use clear epoxy or Micro Kristal Klear to hold them in place. The lights appear to be white, so there is no need to paint the ends of the FO.

Photo11.

Light block the head from the voice box light as shown in photo11. The head on the original B9 is not lit.

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Photo12.

The 6 pointed star(manifold) in the model kit will have to be modified with 1/16 brass tubing.

Photo13.

Start by cutting off each tip flush with ring, cut brass tubing to match the length of the cut off piece, then drill a hole to insert tubing. Make sure you do not use a drill bit that is too large, you want the tube to fit snug.

Photo14.

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Photo15. Either drill through the center post as well as drilling 6 holes to where the tubing is located to allow for fiber optics, or use brass/aluminum tubing.

Use heat shrink to create the wide areas you see on photo15a to complete the star(manifold) look.

Photo16.

Photo17. Once the FO was in the manifold and out it's hole I slid the brass tube back over it.Feed fiber optics and paint FO tips to match Photo6. Epoxy only after testing everything is right.

Photo18.

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To get the last 6 FO strands into the hole I had to attach them to thin brass tube and pull them through the bottom of the base.

Photo19. Notice the black disks used for light blocking the voice tube from other areas of the robot.

Photo20.

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Photo21. Long brass tube used to pull bunched FO easily through robots body andbase.

Photo22. Gluing and holding down.

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Use clear epoxy or Micro Kristal Klear to attach the 4 white tubes to the 4 LEDs at J2). Randomly insert the FO strands from the chest and bubble to the 4 LEDs. Test effect and change them around as you see fit. When you are happy with the effect, epoxy the strands inside of the tubes.

Installing circuits in stand. Steves Build info

Trim paper from Sound board for a better fit.

This seems to be the optimum location for the two boards.You want them not to hang below the edge of the base, and when the light board is located, you want enough room for a smooth gentle curve for the Fiber Optics to follow from the board to the hole in the base.

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Switch and buttons installed. Fiber optics can now be fed to each of the four LEDs. Randomly arrange the FO for each LED and check the effect, you dont want adjacent buttons all blinking on and off at the same time.

Be sure to check out Steve Causeys B9 and J2 builds on hobbytalk.com

Always test your lighting and fiber optic lighting though out your build, it will save you time and headaches. Also test for light blocking.

Starling is proud to introduce our Plug-N-Play Life Force kit for one of the most anticipated SyFI models of the decade, the Moebius 1/6 scale LoSt in SpaCE Robot.

Theres plenty of room in this big boy to install the entire kit.

Please also refer to the information that is provided above, for the smaller B9, to complete your 16 or 1/6 scale build.

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Section 3: 16 and Moebius 1/6 scale model (New optional RC for voice activation is available on website. This option must be installed before shipping.)

Included in Kit: 1 x Fully assembled B9 Robot Life Force Kit 1 x sound board with speaker. 4x 5mm white flashing LED harness, 2 For the two Large knobs on chest and 2 for extra random blinking for B9, with pigtails for extra LEDs.2x 3mm white steady LEDs with resistors for extra lighting.1x Voice tube. .5mm and .75mm Fiber Optics.1x 4 1/4 Plastic tubing.1 PDF manual emailed after purchase.

Required:Normal modeling tools. Micro drill bits.Clear epoxy and favorite glue.Clamps to hold parts to dry. For star fingers.1/16(1.57mm) brass or aluminum tubing.1/16 heat shrink.

Note: You may need to splice extra length of wire for the 9v connector as we have the 1/6 B9 on hand and have discovered the 9v battery can be stowed in one of the feet. Future kits have been updated with a 5 1/2 of extra length.

May require extra wiring (22awg-26awg) and Fiber Optics depending on how elaborate your build is. Mag wire may be required to show less wiring in bubble.

Our kit utilizes fiber optics for an easy installation as well as conserving battery power, without impairing visual aesthetics.

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Photo B9.: 16 and 1/6 scale B9 kit. After unpacking, spread everything out, keep the pigtails from touching each other, add a 9v battery, then test your effect. A dim voice box indicates a low battery. A very low battery is indicated when a clicking sound is heard instead of voice phrase.

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Photo B9 Updated wiring Harness. A steady 3mm white LED with square glow rod was added to the harness for illuminating the back of the 12x square chest buttons. You can tint it with clear orange if you want that incandescent light color I tested a warm white LED and it was to yellowish of a color. The rest of the harness contains 4x 5mm blinking LEDs, use 2 for the 2 large chest buttons and the other 2 for more random fiber optic lighting talked about later in the manual. The 2 power and ground pigtails are for those of you who would like to solder more LEDs to the kit.

Your kit comes with all connections connected, if you remove them, please note orientation so that they are correctly connected. It is a good idea to hot glue all plugged connections to prevent them from coming loose in the future.

2 of the 5mm LEDs in the harness are for the 2 large buttons on robots chest. Use the other 2x 5mm LEDs in conjunction with the 4 board LEDs to add random lighting in the bubble and on the chest.

Power switch tip: you may want to find a way to use Robots power pack to conceal the switch and make it functional.

RC Unit:If you ordered your kit with the optional RC unit, you will be able to activate the voice by remote control. You will need to physically switch the kit on and off. A manual voice activation button is also provided as well as a reset button.Slide the cover on your remote control, up or down to expose the button.

Test your Light kit continuously throughout your build to make sure everything works. Every time you add a new LED, test it.

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Working with Fiber optics. Do not use super glue on fiber optics. If using hot glue, carefully test on a scrap piece of fiber optics. Try not to apply too much heat. 5 min clear epoxy is the normal glue to use.

Fiber Optics flared.

Flare ends of FO as large as you want to shine more light out the end of each button.. Use a heat source such as the electric range on your stove, or soldering iron. Put the range on low heat. Gently and quickly press the end of each FO to the heat source. Work up and down from the heat source to mushroom the end. Either dip the ends multiple times in Future, which makes lighting brighter, or Krystal Klear to achieve a rounded lens. This will help to transfer a larger beam of light out the end of your fiber optics. You want it to look like a bulb at the end. It might take several hours for the Krystal Klear to dry but you will have a large ball with one application.

If you are having trouble with routing the thicker fiber optics or need more fiber optics, you can purchase more here:http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Unjacketed.htm.5mm fiber optics is easier to work with but requires you to flare it more.

Use electric range to easily flare your FO.

Cut your 1/4 tube into 1/2 pieces and place over the 4 blinking board lights, and four blinking harness lights to route your fiber optics to. See photo below Photo 25 below Use 2 of the 1/4 tubes to house the 2 5mm pre-wired blinking LEDs for the Robots 2 large chest buttons. As you route the fiber optics, you may find that you will need to light block the strands so that they do not interfere with each others lights. This may not be a problem, but do test.

An easy method of combining so many fiber optics into one tube is to melt the ends together in a bunch, then glue them into a tube. You bunch up all your FO, heat a butter knife extremely hot, CAREFUL, and touch the ends until they melt together. Make sure the bunch will fit into the tube. Then epoxy them in.

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Steve Causey has kindly documented his clients B9 build, providing tips and photos. Photos here will start from Photo1 on.

Steve starts out by cleaning spruce, dry fitting, assembling sub assemblies, and cleaning up the seams. After some painting, again, dry assembling the sub assemblies.

Test your lighting frequently and check for light bleeding. Test fit before permanently gluing.

Check and fix light leaks as you assemble.

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Photo 1. Concealing 9v battery. Steves client wanted to use a wallwart, photo shows dc jack placement.

Photo 2. DC jack option.

We are going to stack the B9 starting with the feet. Decide on which foot to conceal 9v battery, there is plenty of room. Leave part #64 bottom plate loose for battery access.

Youll need to drill holes in the various parts above the feet to pass the 9v battery connector and wires through.

Photo 3.

Photo 4. Your holes will need to be larger because of the 9v battery connector.

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Photo5. Power wires passing through legs up to body.

Photo 6. Sound board and speaker can be stored in upper vinyl legs, your choice. Glue speaker securely in place to prevent it from vibrating and making a strange sound.

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Photo 7. Feed wires through.

Photo 8. Feeding wires through next layer.

Photo 9 : Top of photo shows where Steve chose to drill holes for buttons and on/off switch. Choose your switch and buttons placement.

Photo 10. 2 push buttons and 1 power switch installed.

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Photo 11. Buttons and switches installed from inside. Photo etch screens also installed.

Photo 12. An extra steady LED can be attached to the pigtails off the power connection to light the from control panel. Be sure to use a 470ohm resistor.

Photo 13. Completed control panel.

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Photo13a.

RC receiver placement. The receivers sync button needs to be accessible in case you lose or break the transmitter.

Photo 14: Steves instructions: I took an xacto and opened up the back side of the left arm. they should install the arm before doing this..it's kind of tough to get the vinyl part seated, and if you cut it open first it might be even harder to do. This way I could have an access port for the R/C reset button.

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Photo 15. You can see the receiver in B9s left arm.

Voice Box

Voice tube.

Voice tube for LED voice box. Half of the included voice tube needs to be painted. Mask off the area that will face forward of your robots voice box. Mask off end that LED attaches to. Paint several coats of white paint, this will spread the light, then paint black over the white to help light block. Test with led and paint as needed. LED may fit snug in light box, do not glue to LED until you are sure you are ready.You may use clear 5min epoxy or your choice of glue. Glues meant for polystyrene , such as modelmasters liquid cement will not work.

Whichever Robot, Robby, B9, etc, you may need to build a light box around the inside of the clear plastic, encasing the voice tube. This will spread the light where you want it and block it where you don't want it. Materials to use for light box:Card stock.Polystyrene sheets.Aluminum foil.(Take care that no power sources will come in contact.

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Photo 16. Voice box area.

Photo 17. Part #34. Be careful not to cut off the bottom section.

Photo 18. This area needs to be opened for voice lighting.

Light block the back of the voice box area by building a light box out of plastic, card stock, or carefully use foil making sure nothing metal comes in contact with it.

See Photo 4 page 4. for voice box preperation.

Chest Lights

Photo 19. Drill shallow holes in the back of the round buttons for fiber optics. Be care not to go all the way through.

Photo 20. Use clear color acrylics to color buttons. Use clear 5min epoxy to set only after you have tested the to see they light properly. Steve flared the ends a bit, shown in the fiber

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An extra steady LED can be attached to the pigtails off the power connection to light the square buttons.

optics section, before inserting. This will provide more light. He used .75mm fiber optics.

When it's time to connect to the 4 board blinking lights and the two extra blinking lights provided in the wiring harness, alternate your fiber optics between the six blinking LEDS to achieve the most random looking effect. Make sure adjacent buttons are not routed to the same LED.

Photo 21.

Photo 21a. Steve minimizes light cross over using heat shrink.

Photo 22. Steve painted a light coat of flat white on the outside lens of both buttons and silver around the bezel. He lightly painted one of the 5mm blinking LEDs green, from the 4 LED harness, and the other 5mm Blinking LED red. It gives the buttons a light green and and light pink effect. See Photo 6 of the small B9 Build.

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Photo 23. Green paint from the large green button was removed and the 5mm LED was painted instead. The other buttons 5mm LED was painted clear red.

Photo 24. Test then glue 2 of the 4 5mm blinking LEDs, from the harness, behind the 2 large buttons using 2 pieces of the 1/4 tubing.

Photo 25. Use 4 pieces of tubing over the 4 board LEDs. Steve used heat shrink over them to prevent some light bleeding.

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Photo 26.

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Photo 26a-b Board installed position. Provides 4 lights for Fiber optics. Photo on right shows the 2x 5mm blinking LEDs off of harness. Fiber optics are also fed to these.

Photo 26c. Randomly arrange the Fiber optics and them fed to the 4x board LEDs and 2x 5mm harness LEDs. Test effect before epoxing. See page 40

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Bubble Star manifold:

Don't be afraid of working with brass an aluminum tubing. The cutter below was purchased at hobby lobby and is made for it.

Photo 27a. Youll need 1/16(1.57mm) brass tubing and heat shrink for manifold fingers. Cut 7 pieces to the size of part #5 and add the light tips to length(Not included in kit.)

Photo 27b.

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Photo 27c. Part #44. Brain cup top half.Photo 28. Remove the longer inside post.

Photo 29. Drill out center for fiber optic strands. Photo 29a. Part #45 brain cup bottom half.

Carve 7 deep channels for the fiber optics to lay.

Before completing these steps, read all of them first.

Before installing your fiber optics, you need to flare them. Test them with a light source before installing. Pg 18 shows how to flare and create a bulb on the end to achieve maximum lighting. Also cut more than enough length to reach the LEDs so that you have plenty of work room when laying the model down.

If you are struggling with .75mm fiber optics for the star fingers, you can use .5mm. Flare and create a large bulb with Krystal Klear, test the lighting. It might take several hours for the Krystal Klear to dry but you will have a large ball with one application.

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Photo .5mm FO. .5mm fiber optics can be used in place of the .75mm in the finger lighting and eyes. Flared and dipped in Micro Krystal Klear and allowed to properly dry results in what you see in the photo. Orb glows from the side and bright light out the front.

Photo29b.

Cut 7 strands of .75mm fiber optics and flare as discussed on pg18. Cut them to give you enough slack to work with and reach the 4 blinkers in the body and two 5mm LEDs on the harness. You want to create a clear bulb on the end of the flare. Future clear polish gives the best clarity but takes longer to achieve a bulb. Micro Krysal Klear is a creates a nice orb on the end.Feed the 7 strands through the brass tubes and through the lower brain cup. Cut the lengths long enough to give you plenty of slack once you attach them to the light board.

.5mm will also work as long as you flare nice a nd large. We use it with the centurinon.

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Photo 30. pull the strands through.

Photo 31. Steve also fed .5mm up the center for additional effects inside the bubble. Well see what he does with them later. Place the top brain cover over the strands. Can be used

Photo 32.Photo 32a. Notes from Steve:I replaced kit parts # 53 connecting shaft halves with a section of .020" /.4.3 mm brass tube you can use the kit parts but the inside will need to be enlarged to allow the FO to pass through.

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Photo 33. Brass tubes are not shown in photo. Each fiber optic should have its own brass tube. Pull out the slack and then clamp. Glue the top and bottom brain cups together and clamp until dried. See photo 37.

Photo 33a.

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Now were getting to the cool stuff ;)

Photo 34. You've passed the brass tubes over the 7 strands of fiber optics and into the brain cups and the flared ends should be at the end of each brass tube. Note in the photo where the heat shrink is. Remember each fiber optic should be flared with a bulb of future, Krystal Klear or clear epoxy.

Photo 35. Do not use the part #5 as this method will obstruct much of the fiber optic lighting.

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Photo 36. Do not use the part #5 as seen in photo, the tips obstruct the light. Use a drop of Micro crystal clear, future or clear epoxy on each end seen in photo 37.. You can test with a flash light to make sure they are bright.

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Photo 37. My mock up of the manifold and fingers using a cork LOL. I needed to demonstrate how to use the fibers to gain their maximum light and did not have the model in hand. Note the one towards the right that is orb shaped. This was made using a drop of Micro Krystal Klear, the rest are tested with future. All are bright and the orb glows nicely from the side. Test the lighting before epoxying to the LED See photo 38.

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Photo 38. Properly flaring and creating the end bulb will achieve the seen results. The 90deg bend has no negative effect on the lighting, as you can see.

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Attaching fiber optics to LEDs. Always test throughout your build, it will save you time and headaches.

Be sure to test your fiber optics positioning before epoxying in place. You may need to move your fiber optics around and make sure they are not laying sideways. Also test the randomness of the effect, make sure there are no adjacent buttons blinking at the same time.

Photo 39. Attaching FO to 5mm harness LED lights.

Photo 40. After you've tested the effect, you may epoxy the fiber optics to the inside of the tubes. Remember to also use the 2x 5mm blinking LEDs off the harness to add more random action. Photo 41. End result of Steves build.

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As more tips come in from others builds, we will be adding more helpful info. Continue reading below for LED info.Soldering extra LEDs and Resistors. This info is for those of you who would like to add extra LEDs but have limited soldering skills. 2 extra 3mm white steady LEDs with resistors are included to add more lights to B9. A red and black pigtail is provided off the 4x flasher LED harness connection to add your own LEDs.

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The longer lead is the positive(anode) side of the LED. If you ever mix things up, look inside the LED. The smaller element is positive, the larger one is negative.

Cut the positive lead to solder resistor to. Solder resistor, then cut both leads equal leaving some lead to solder your wire to.

Solder your colored wire to the positive and black wire to the negative lead.

You May want to use heat shrink to prevent the bare leads from shorting.

Pigtails off of 4x LED harness connector provided for extra LEDs. Plug it into the J1 connector marked 9v DC noting polarity. Mag wire may be required for any extra LEDs you would like to place inside bubble. When dealing with multiple LEDs, gather all your red(positive) wires (colored wire) and solder them together. Slip a piece of heat shrink that is large enough to slide over the wire bundle. Solder this wire bundle to the colored red pigtail(positive). Do the same for all your black(ground) wires.

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Solder your wire bundle.

Heat shrink your bundle together.

As stated in the instructions for the smaller B9, create a light box for behind the voice box to make this area bright. Use the small B9 build instructions for the rest of your build.

More info will be added as information is provided.

Section 4: Specifications.B9 Robot Life Force Kit runs on 9volt Battery.

B9 References.http://www.hobbytalk.comhttp://www.youtube.com (for videos)

Steves Post on Hobbytalk.http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=410554

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Thank you again for purchasing the B9 Robot Life Force kit from Starling,Stanley J. Koziol

Most of the info and photos in this manual were provided Steve Causey. Starling Technologies would like to thank Steve Causey for his help in this projectSteve is a professional model builder who does an amazing job on all his projects.

Contact Steve for price quote at:Home of SC Models Custom build ups for the discriminating collector. Contact us for a quote:

steve.c1166@gmail.com

All photos contained in this document are property of Starling technologies. This document may not be copied, sold or transfered without permission.

E/FX is a trademark of Starling Technologies Copyright 2008-2014 Starling Technologies www.starling-tech.com

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