St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

October - November 2012 No85st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ST. pETERSbuRg

Visiting VladimirStroll into history

Autumn festivalsManhattan film festival, Windows on the Netherlands, Side by Side

October - November 2012

October - November 2012st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

3Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Foreword A word from our editor 4

NewsWhat’s new in the city 5

Basics 6

History 8

Getting Around 9

Language 10

Culture and Events 11

Bridges Schedule 11

Exhibitions 18

Contents

Vladimir 20

Hotels 23

Restaurants and Cafes 27

Nightlife 38

Sightseeing 46

Further Afield 52

Veliky Novgorod 54

Moscow 55

Shopping 57

Expat 59

Lifestyle Directory 61

Metro Map 62

Map 63

Street Register 66

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com October - November 2012st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

5news4 Foreword

Visas eased for US citizensAfter much negotiation the US and Russia have signed a new agreement which came into force on September 09 significantly easing the Russian visa process for American citizens. Under the new agreement all business and tourist visas issued to American citizens will now be multiple-entry and valid for three years allow-ing the visitor to stay in Russia for up to 6 months. In addition, invitation letters from businesses or individuals in Russia will not be required to be submitted in support of an application, except in certain circumstances. For more information on how to apply for a Russian visa as an American citizen please contact your local Russian consulate or embassy.

175 years of Russian railThis year in October Russia celebrated the 175 anniversary of the state railways network RZD. The first Russian rail tracks were laid in 1837. The 26.3 km track ran between St. Petersburg and the imperial suburb of Tsarskoe Selo. From these humble begin-nings the rail network soon began to swiftly grow. In 1842 work started on the route connecting Moscow and St. Petersburg and in 1891 construction began on the famous Trans-Siberian railway. Incredibly it took only 25 years to lay all the 9,289km of track stretching from Moscow to Vladivostok, passing through some of the world’s most inhospitable territory. One of the biggest employers in the country, Russian Railways currently employs more than 970,000 people and over the next eight years the company will continue to grow. By 2020 RZD plans to have laid 20,000km of new rail tracks, particularly in the Urals, Siberia and the Far East and will be developing yet more high-speed routes similar to the Sapsan route which runs between Moscow and St. Petersburg, whilst also focusing on developing its lucrative freight routes connecting the pacific coast with Western Europe. As part of continued restructuring, the company has also introduced new special deals on tickets for second class (kupe) places on night trains. If you buy your kupe ticket more than 30 days in advance of your journey, you can get the ticket half-price. The offer is valid on all long-distance trains.

New concert venue A2 opensSt. Petersburg‘s live music scene continues to go from strength to strength with the opening of the large new concert space A2, located in a 19th Century former factory on the Petrograd side of the city. The new 5,000 square metre club has two stages; one accommodating crowds of up to 5,000 people and a smaller one suitable for 1,500, as well as ample bar and restaurant spaces and other areas which can accommodate the overflow of large festivals and events. This unique project has been put together by the same team who opened the now defunct A2 club which held numerous small-scale concerts by major international names such as Yoav and Patrick Wolf and who also now run the larger and more commercially successful Kosmonavt club. The line-up for the coming months includes numerous big interna-tional acts such as Garbage, Yann Tiersen and Scooter as well as major club nights featuring top star DJs and alternative music festivals showcasing the best of the European underground. A2 Club, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 495 309 99 22, a2.fm

Happy Unity DayNovember 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected the Polish forces from Mos-cow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November 7 which commemorated The October Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day! As the holiday falls on a Sunday this year, Monday November 05 will be taken as a national public holiday.

Editorial departmentEditors Louise Whitworth, Ksenia [email protected] & Design Malvina [email protected] Ksenia Elzes, Elizaveta [email protected] Contributors Vanessa Prolow

Commercial departmentSales Director Jerke Verschoor [email protected] Sales Manager Lev [email protected] order issues Tanya [email protected]

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2012. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Nor spring nor summer beauty hath such grace, as I have seen in one autumnal face - wrote John Donne, the English poet. For many Russians, St. Petersburg is associated with autumn, which has always been my favorite time of the year. Ok, it may be cold and rainy (and since we are talking about Russia - sometimes snowy too) but there s something magical about Autumn in this city.School has already started and there’s newness in the air, even though the season is the precursor to winter. October and November can be a wonderful time to explore St. Petersburg, despite the fact that you can never predict the weather, there’s plenty to do. If it s not too cold and there’s no ice on the Neva you can still admire the bridges opening at night (check the schedule on page 11) or if winter has arrived early just go spend the evening in a hot Russian banya instead (page 61). Enjoying the vibrant colours of the falling autumn leaves or the sparkle of the first frost in the countryside at one of St. Petersburg`s imperial suburbs is another must. And if you will be staying in Russia a bit longer we recommend you visit Vladimir, one of the oldest towns in Russia and a gateway to the famous ‘Golden Ring’. Turn to pages 20-22 to read our tips on what to do in this historic town. Of course this is also the time when the new cultural season is in full swing. Whether you like rock, pop or classical concerts, film festivals, art exhibitions, opera or ballet, St. Petersburg is your kind of town this autumn. And football fans shouldn’t miss the pride of the city - FC Zenit - playing in two Champions League matches at the Petrovsky Stadium. You can find out all about these events and more on pages 11-19. And just as the seasons are changing, so too is St. Petersburg: new clubs, concert spaces, bars, cafés and restaurants are opening all the time. Whatever you do here this autumn share your experiences with us and other readers at www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket.

Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guidesis independent from paid-for advertising.We welcome all readers‘ comments andsuggestions. We have made every effort toensure the accuracy of the information atthe time of going to press and assume noresponsibility for changes and errors.

Санкт-Петербург В Твоем КарманеУчредитель и издатель:ООО «Красная Шапка»Россия, 196084 Санкт-ПетербургУл. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64Главный редактор:Бонни ван дер ВелдеОтпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”,188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск,Всеволожский пр., 114Заказ No. 59-10Свидетельство о регистрациисредства массовой информацииПи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выданоСеверо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати.Цена свободная.Тираж 90 000 экз.No85. 01.10.2012

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© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your PocketPublished 6 times per year with supplements,

No85, 01-10-2012, 90.000 copies© Maps the BCB-Group

The colourful figure on our cover is one of four statues of restored Chinese ladies which sit atop a decorative bridge in the gardens of Catherine’s Palace in Pushkin. The extensive grounds of the fabulous palace also contain a pyramid, a Chinese temple and a Tatar mosque. Photo by Dreamstime.

Cover story

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

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7Basics6 Basics

Mobile PhonesYou can use your mobile phone if your provider has an inter-national roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. A pre-paid card account starts from around 150Rbl and includes about the same moneys worth of calls. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

MoneyThe national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbls. There are 100 kopeks to a ruble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels. Not all establishments take credit cards, even if they have signs that say they do. Always have cash as back up. American Express travellers’ cheques are exchangeable at most banks or call the head office hotline on (+7) 800 200 94 49. Most Russian banks also offer Western Union money transfers.

QueuingIt may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking ‘Kto pasledny?’ (Who’s last?), to which someone will answer ‘Ya’ (meaning me). Now all you need to do is wait for your turn. Unwritten rules include telling the person behind you that you are just nipping out for a cigarette and will be back in five minutes. Contrary to western understanding, you don’t lose your place by not waiting around, you can also just come back later.

ToiletsI f th e por tab l e lavator y doesn’t thrill you, try McDon-ald’s or random hotels and cafes uttering the words ‘Gde tualet?’ (‘Where is the toi-let?).

Foreigner PricesThe ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Habits No shoes in the house! When entering a Russian household, remember to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers. In terms of greetings, men shake hands with each other on meeting and if you’re a woman and you hold your hand out to a man, don’t be suprised if it is not shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking! It’s also seen as very rude to blow your nose loudly in public and cross your legs on public transport. Spitting on the streets seems to be okay, though.

Health and SafetyDespite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. The famed Russian mafia has bigger fish to fry than your average tourist and you’re more likely to be robbed or beaten up by the thugs ingeniously disguised as police officers. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully and don’t assume cars will stop just because you’re on a zebra crossing. Other dangers include dodgy electrical fittings, temperamental gas stoves, uncovered manholes and absinthe. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Internet accessMost cafes, restaurants and bars now have free wifi, just ask your waiter for a parol (password) to be able to log in.Yota If you are here for a while and need a reliable mobile internet service, the company Yota is the leader in 4G instant internet. You will need to buy a mini-modem (like a large USB memory stick) which costs around 2,000Rbl and sign up to a number of Yota packages.Cafemax E-4, Nevsky pr. 90/92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 66 55, www.cafemax.ru.QOpen 24hrs.

Making a CallCalling within St. Petersburg - To call any number within St. Petersburg from a private fixed line, just dial the local seven–digit number as it is, without any codes. Normally, all calls from fixed lines to other fixed lines in St. Petersburg are free.

Calling within Russia - For a call to Moscow or any other city in Russia, simply dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial the Russian city code and the number.

Calling internationally - To phone home from a St. Petersburg landline without using a card, dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial 10 and the country code city code and the number as usual.

Pickpocket placesNevsky Prospekt and other downtown streets are very popular places for pick-pocketing gangs. They like to block the entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances (particularly during rush hour). It may be wiser to leave valuables in your hotel’s safe and carry only enough cash for the day. Also watch your belongings when you travel by metro, especially if it is rush hour. Think twice about leaving mobile phones in bags when checking them at theatre or nightclub cloakrooms.

Police! The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

What to do if you are robbedCancel your credit cards as soon as possible. Carry copies of your credit cards with international customer service numbers somewhere other than your wallet. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen.

More safety...Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English lan-guage tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33.

Be on guard!

By PlaneSt. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long.Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi comapnies see page 9.Getting to the airport by Public Transport: buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnolgichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.

Leaving St. Petersburg

number of the train

departure date

departure time - don’t be late, they won’t wait! number of your carriage (vagon)

seat or bed number (myesta)

your passport number –check when you buy the ticket that the seller copied it correctly

that’s you! arrival timeNote all times are always Moscow time - even when you’re in a different time zone.

RegistrationRemember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Some pointers to get you started and help you make some sense of chaotic Russian life.

AlcoholStereotypes about Russian drinking habits are mostly true, so if you somehow find yourself enmeshed in a vodka session with locals, don’t try to keep up. Vodka is cheap and there are tonnes of brands. Russky Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravli are pretty good. Be aware that you can’t buy strong alcohol (more than 5% proof) in shops from 23:00 until 07:00. Rus-sian beer (pivo) is good stuff; try locally brewed Nevskoe or Baltika. Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink.

CustomsFor most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 17:00 or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

or = ladiesor = gentlemen


8 9

History9th CenturySlavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th - 15th CenturiesGolden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descen-dants of Ghenghis Khan invade. 17th CenturyTime of Troubles 1603- 1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar.1703Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 . 1725-1825A princess from Germany marries into the Romanovs, becom-ing Catherine the Great (1762 - 1796). Famous for progressive reform, infamous for her lovers and renowned leaving an indel-ible mark upon the architectural ensemble of St. Petersburg.1812Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. Led by poets Pushkin and Lermontov, Russia enters its Golden Age of poetry.1825 - 1861In 1825 the Decembrist uprising is crushed. Soldiers and nobles revolt against Nicholas I, who executes and exiles the dissenters. In 1837 Russia’s best loved poet Pushkin is killed in a duel.

GettinG AroundHistory

Russia in the autumn - rain, wind and then a little flurry of snow. In October Russia’s beautiful ‘golden autumn’ is usually fully underway as the trees start to turn beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow. By the time November arrives though snow will probably already be falling, mixed with the odd bit of icy rain, so stick to wearing layers, wa-terproof shoes and of course don’t forget your umbrella.

Public transportMost Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. If you are travelling outside the centre or have a long journey you may need a variety of transport types. The website www.rusavtobus.ru is (mostly) available in English and will give you several options for your journey start to finish.Bus/Trolleybus/Tram - Most have scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin listing the next stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 23Rbl.Metro - Petersburg has five colour–coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. One metro ride costs 27Rbl.Marshrutka - The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows a set route. When you see the number you want, hail it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites pazhalusta,’ and the driver will, hopefully, come to a screeching halt. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay.

Taxis‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely. Although there are official’taxis, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door and sometimes they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Ladybird, tel. (+7) 812 900 05 04, www.ladybird-taxi.ru.QWomen only taxi service; female drivers and car seats for the kids. Open 24hrs.Zhyoltoe Taxi (Yellow Taxi) , tel. (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.nyt.ru. City centre to airport around 700Rbl. Having exact change is recommended.

FerriesSt. Peter Line Morskoy Vokzal, Pl. Morskoy Slavy 1, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 337 20 60 , www.stpe-terline.com. The ferry is the first visa free link up between Helsinki, Tallinn, Stockholm and St. Petersburg. Passengers can stay in Russia for a maximum 72hours (with no visits to other towns or cities). Daily journeys between Helsinki and St. Petersburg, weekly between Tallinn and Stockholm. Check website for full schedule.

Buying TicketsIf you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. At some stations there are also now self-service machines where you can buy and print out tickets yourself using a bank card. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation. If you lose your ticket it is possible to get a new one printed at the special counter by bringing along your passport and details of the train.

Train Stations Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo.Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia.Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha.Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow.Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkins-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, War-saw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

BusesCity Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvod-nogo kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30.Eurolines Russia Nab. Obvodnogo Kanala 118 (busi-ness centre Admiral), MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Car RentalAVIS Russia Car Rental F- 4, Pl. Aleksandra Nevskogo 2, podezd 3, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 600 12 13, www.avis-rentacar.ru. Europcar D-3, Pulkovo 2, arriving hall, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 35 36, www.europcar.ru.

1861 - 1881Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs, although the poor terms of abolition do little to quell revolutionary tensions amongst peasants. He is assassinated by anarchist terror-ists on St. Petersburg’s canal Griboedeva. The church on the spilled blood is built in his honour.1905Bloody Sunday: a large crowd carrying a petition to the Winter Palace for the Tsar is fired upon by the Tsar’s troops and hundreds are killed. The incident prompts outrage, strikes and eventually the establishment of a national parliament (Duma) in 1906.1914Russia joins its allies the French in World War I and St. Peters-burg changes its name to Petrograd.1916Wild-eyed, womanising Rasputin, a Siberian peasant monk who has the Tsarina Alexandra under his spell, is murdered by Prince Felix Yusupov in St. Petersburg.1917 - 1922Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Leningrad.1922 - 1936Lenin implements the New Economic Policy (NEP), but dies in 1924. Following a power struggle, Josef Stalin becomes leader and abolishes the NEP and brings in col-lectivisation. In 1934 Kirov is murdered and in 1937 the great Purges of Stalin’s terror begin. Millions are murdered or sent to gulags.1941 - 1945June 1941 Nazi Germany invades the Soviet Union under operation Barbarossa. In September 1941 the siege of Len-ingrad begins and is only broken on January 27 1944. During the siege at least 1.5 million die of starvation or injuries. May 9, 1945, Nazi Germany capitulates. The Soviet death toll is estimated to be close to 30 million.1945 - 1964Winston Churchill announces that an ‘iron curtain’ has been drawn across Europe. The Cold War begins. Stalin dies in 1953. Khrushchev details Stalin’s atrocities in a secret speech in 1956 and his body is removed from Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow. Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space (1961). 1964 - 1991Khrushchev is impeached, Brezhnev becomes leader and the years of stagnation begin. New leader Gorbachev’s reforms of perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness) improve western relations (1985) but also begin to de-stabilise the Soviet Union. In 1991 following the end of communism in Eastern Europe the Soviet Union collapses. 1991 - 1999Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the new Russian Federation in 1991. Economic crisis and insta-bili ty ensues with rampant inflation and privatisation shaking the country. 1999 - 2008Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. Putin’s popularity knows no boundaries. In 2006 St. Petersburg hosts the G8 summit. 2008 - 2012Another local boy, Dmitry Medvedev is elected Presi-dent in March 2008 with overwhelming suppor t. The consti tu tion is changed to lengthen the Presidential term to 6 years. 2012 Vladimir Putin is elected Russian President for the third time.

Climate


11Culture & events10

October eventsThrought 25.10 ThursdayWindow on the NetherlandsVarious venues, check official webside for details, tel. (+7) 812 334 02 00, stpetersburg.nlconsulate.org. Since 2006 the Dutch consulate in St. Petersburg has continued to celebrate the ties between Russia and Holland which date back to Peter the Great‘s visit to the Netherlands in the 18th Century with this special festival of all things Dutch. The Window on the Netherlands season includes scientific and social sciences lectures, photography workshops, exhibi-tions, concerts, fashion shows, theatre productions and film screenings. At the Dutch consulate website you can find a full list in English of all the events which will be taking place.

03.10 Wednesday20:00 NnekaC-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.nnekaworld.com. Nigerian singer Nneka, who sings in both English and the native language of the Igbo people, is a truly captivating performer who has captured the hearts of many in Europe and Africa and is currently being touted as the best thing to hit the neo-soul scene in years. Her music mixes elements of hip-hop, dub, reggae and soul with an addictive afrobeat, topped off with huge amounts of raw emotion and deep lyrics which tell the story of the modern African struggle. Her perfor-mances are mesmerising and completely heartfelt typically casting a spell over her enrap-tured audiences. Don‘t miss it. Q Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl.

03.10 Wednesday - 07.10 SundayManhattan film festivalD-3, Aurora cinema, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, www.tourdefilm.ru. Like playing film critic? How about this one then - you get to watch some of this year‘s most compelling short films made by directors from across the world and then decide which one is the best. With film show-ings in over 150 cities internationally, festival attendees and moviegoers are given voting cards upon entry to all venues. You can be harsh, you can be kind, your opinion counts no matter what - just like a real critic. Films will be shown in their original language and the selection includes films from Norway, the Netherlands, Russia, Britain, Peru, France, Romania, USA and Spain. Q For the schedule check the website.

Pocket dictionary: Krepky OreshekMost film fans will no doubt have seen at least one of the many Krepky Oreshek films starring Bruce Willis, usually known in the English-speaking world as Die Hard. Krepky is related to the group of Russian words with the root ‘krep’ - such as ‘krepost’ meaning fortress, and an oreshek is a nut, which produces the literal translation ‘hard nut’. So, Bruce Willis, Sylvester Stallone and all of the other tough guy types are what Russians would call ‘hard nuts’ - don’t mess with them...

lAnGuAGeWelcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.

Concert HallsGrand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Ul. Mikhailovs-kaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ruJaani Kirik Concert Hall (JKCH) A-2, Ul. Dekabristov 54, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.JFC Jazz Club (JFC) B-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MCher-nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club.spb.ru.Maltese Capella, Vorontsovsky Palace (MC) D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 26, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 610 33 28, www.maltacapella.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www.bkz.sp.ru. Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-4, Ul. Dekabris-tov 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru.State Academic Capella (SAC) B-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 10 58, www.capella-spb.ru

TheatresAlexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovsk-ogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) C-2, Dvortso-vaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru.Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mari-insky.ru.Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, w w w.mikhailovsky.ru.State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT) D-3, ul. Italianskaya 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76

1 adin 12 dvinatsat 50 pyatdesyat2 dva 13 trinatsat 60 shesdesyat3 tri 14 chetyrnatsat 70 semdesyat4 chetyre 15 pyatnatsat 80 vosemdesyat5 pyat 16 shesnatsat 90 devyanosta6 shest 17 semnatsat 100 sto7 sem 18 vosemnatsat 500 pyatsot8 vosem 19 devyatnatsat 1000 tysicha9 devyat 20 dvatsat 2000 dve tysyachi10 desyat 30 tritsat11 adinatsat 40 sorok

Numbers

Basic phrasesNo/Yes Net/da Нет/ДаHello Zdrastvuite ЗдравствуйтеGoodbye Dasvidaniya До свиданияThank you Spasibo СпасибоSorry/excuse me Izvinite ИзвинитеPlease Pazhalusta ПожалуйстаI don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаюI don't speak Russian

Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky

Я не говорю по-русски

Do you speak English?

Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky?

Вы говорите по-английски?

Help! Pomogitye! Помогите!Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня!I need some help Mne nuzhna

pomoshchМне нужна помошь

I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочуI (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не)

нравитьсяMay I? Mozhno? Можно?Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...?I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаюHow much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит?It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого!More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньшеLarge/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/

маленкийGood/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохоIt hurts! Bolno! Больно!Today Sevodnya СегодняTomorrow Zaftra ЗавтраCould you write it down?

Zapishite pazhalusta

Запишите, пожалуйста

Toilets Tualet ТуалетStop here please Ostanavite

pazhalustaОстановите, пожалуйста

When? At what time?

Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во сколько?

What time is it? Katory chas? Который час?Who? Kto? Кто?How do you say that in Russian?

Kak skazat eto pa-russky?

Как сказать это по-русски?

No problem Bez problem Без проблемOf course Koneshno КонечноLet's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе!Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником!

In the restaurant/barBill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет,

пожалуйстаI am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианецDry/sweet (for wine)

Sukhoe/sladkoe (vino)

Сухое/сладеое (вино)

Red/White (for wine)

Krasnoe/byeloe (vino)

Красное/белое (вино)

Set lunch menu Bizness lanch Бизнес-ланчIs this seat free? Mesto svobodno? Место

свободно?2 beers please Dva piva

pazhalustaДва пива, пожалуйста

(Non) smoking place

(Ne) kuryashchee mesto

(Не) курящее место

Table water Pityevaya/stolovaya voda

Питьевая/столовая вода

Meat Myaso МясоNuts Orekhi ОрехиI am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергияVery tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно!

Where is the…? Gdye…? Где…?Is it far? Eta daleko? Это далеко?Right/left Napravo/nalyevo Направо/налевоStraight ahead Pryamo ПрямоTicket office Kassa КассаOpen/closed Otkryto/zakryto Открыто/

закрытоEntrance/exit Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выходPush/pull Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себеTicket Bilyet БилетReturn (ticket) Tuda i obratno Туда и обратноEntrance forbidden

Vkhod zapreshchon

Вход запрещен

No smoking Ne kurit Не курить

Useful Phrases

Getting aroundGrand Philharmonic Hall GPHImperial Hermitage Theatre IHTJaani Kirik Concert Hall JKCHJazz Philharmonic Hall JPHJFC Jazz Club JFCMariinsky Concert Hall MCHMariinsky Theatre MATMikhailovsky Theatre MITSaint Petersburg Opera SPOSmall Philharmonic Hall SPHState Academic Capella SACState Theatre of Music Comedy MCT

Venues

Bridge DrawingDvortsovy 1:05 - 4:50Blagoveshchensky 1:25 - 2:45, 3:10 - 5:00Sampsonievsky 2:10 - 2:45, 3:30 - 4:25Grenadersky 2:45 - 3:45, 4:20 - 4:50Kantemirovsky 2:45 - 3:45, 4:20 - 4:50Troitsky 1:35 - 4:50Liteiny 1:40 - 4:45Birjevoy 2:00 - 4:55Tutchkov 2:00 - 2:55, 3:35 - 4:55Bolsheokhtinsky 2:00 - 5:00Volodarsky 2:00 - 3:45, 4:15 - 5:45Alexandra Nevskogo 2:20 - 5:10Finlyandsky 2:20 - 5:30

Bridges Opening Schedule


12 Culture & events 13Culture & events

07.10 Sunday19:00 Tango PassionDK Gorkogo, Pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. The passion and fire of Argentine tango will come to Russia this month with this special one-off show featuring numerous top dancers and musicians including Mariinsky theatre soprano soloist Larisa Elina. The musical repertoire will include the most famous works by the likes of Gardel, Piazzolla, Rota and Morriсone with the highlight of the event being a passionate performance of Rodriguez‘s La Cumparsita. Adding to the romantic atmosphere the whole hall will be decorated with thousands of fresh flowers. Q Tickets 600 - 2, 5000 Rbl.

17.10 Wednesday20:00 Aura DioneC-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.auradione.com. A Danish singer-songwriter, Aura also has Faroese, Spanish and French roots which can be seen in her unusual look as well as heard in her ethno influenced dance-pop sound. Although it‘s quite a stretch to suggest that she‘s a ‘Danish Shakira‘ or Europe‘s answer to Nelly Furtado, but there‘s no denying her pop credentials in mainland Europe with recent hits such as Geronimo sweeping the airwaves. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl.

20.10 Saturday19:00 Dubex festivalB-1, A2 Club, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.fbits.ru. The festival of experimental electronic music is a new one for St. Petersburg but builds on the city‘s history of underground music festivals celebrating experimental ethno and electro music. The headline act is the dark dubstep and trip-hop artist Emika who is now signed to the highly respected Ninja Tune label. She will be joined on the lineup by fell British act Clubroot as well as Russian shoe-gazers I am waiting for you last summer and an amazing jazz/hip-hop influenced local act Long Arm. Q Tickets TBA.

20.10 Saturday21:00 World of Drum n BassВ-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.wodb.ru. Partying on all the way to sunrise, the annual World of Drum and Bass party is a loud and energetic evening of hard and fast pounding bass and beats. The event always attracts top D‘n‘B DJs from the UK, Europe and the USA and the organisers make sure there‘s plenty of entertainment in addition to the music. Q Tickets 1,700Rbl.

06.10 Saturday20:00 Yann TiersenE-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www.yanntiersen.com. Take some folkloric French harmonies, stir in some Chopin classicism and top of with post-punk references and voila! You‘ll have Yann Tiersen. After nine albums and three soundtracks his work for the French film Amelie is still the one that has provided him his wide-spread recognition outside of France. He plays piano, violin, cello and accordion amongst other musical instruments and i f you know him only from the film prepare to be surprised by a lot of layered electronic sounds. Q Tick-ets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

26.10 Friday20:00 TherionD-4, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.megatherion.com. The Swedish lords of symphonic metal Therion are now embarking on their 25 anniversary tour titled Flowers of Evil. Combining a full orchestra with songs inspired by mythology, magic and the occult, Therion‘s performances are beloved of those who like the mystical darkside of the metal scene. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,000Rbl.

27.10 Saturday19:00 Deep PurpleLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.deeppurple.com. They‘ve been together for an incredible 42 years and have recorded a whop-ping 19 records. But despite all their years of hard work, for most Russians it‘s Smoke on the Water that remains Deep Purple‘s defining moment. Pioneers of the hard rock move-ment, the band inspired dozens of other bands during their time and also functioned as idols for many a budding guitarist including the Russian Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev. The former President counts the band as his all time favourite and will no doubt be somewhere in the crowd enjoying this stadium gig. Q Tickets 800 - 3,000Rbl.

27.10 Saturday20:00 BrainstormC-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.brainstorm.lv. Latvian power metal band who are legendary in Eastern Europe for their distinctive brand of soft rock sung in English, Russian and Latvian. They edged in on international fame in 2000 with their Eurovision performance of their most pop-friendly song My Star, although it is safe to say that their biggest fan base is found in Russia and the Baltic states. Q Tickets 900 - 3,000Rbl.

Oct Time Event Venue02 19:00 Tosca MIT04 - 07 15:00,

20:00My Fair Lady MAT

07 19:00 Stars of Romanian Opera GPH18 19:00 Don Giovanni MAT09 19:00 Rusalka MIT12 19:00 La Bohème MIT12 19:00 Tosca MAT13 20:00 The Love for Three

OrangesMAT

14 19:00 Aida MAT14 19:00 Le nozze di Figaro MCH16 19:00 Pelléas et Mélisande MAT18 19:00 Don Giovanni MAT19, 21 19:00 Aida MCH20 19:00 Eugene Onegin MAT23, 24 19:00 Boris Godunov MAT25 19:00 L´heure espagnole. Gianni

SchicchiMCH

26 19:00 Die Zauberflöte MCH26, 27, 28

19:00 Eugene Onegin MIT

27 18:00 Ruslan and Lyudmila MAT28 19:00 Prince Igor MAT30 19:00 Les contes d'Hoffmann MAT31 19:00 The Enchanted Wanderer MCHNov Time Event Venue01 19:00 Un ballo in maschera MIH01 19:00 La Bohème MAT04 19:00 Mazepa MAT10 19:00 Eugene Onegin MIH13 19:00 Le nozze di Figaro MCH14 19:00 Rusalka MIH14 19:00 A life for the Tsar MAT15 19:00 Tosca MIH16 19:00 La Bohème MIH18 12:00 The Love for Three

OrangesMAT

20 19:00 La traviata MIH20 19:00 Idomeneo, rè di Creta MAT20 19:00 Opera Gala GPH22 19:00 La traviata MAT23 19:00 Madama Butterfly MAT24 13:00 Iolanta MIH27 19:00 L`elisisr d`amore MIH30 19:00 The Queen of Spades MIH

Opera and Operetta25.10 Thursday - 03.11 SaturdayVarious venues, check website for details, www.bok-o-bok.ru. Russia‘s only LGBT film festival, Side by Side is gearing up for its fifth season of film and discussion. Operating in a climate which is quite frankly rather hostile towards the expression of gay and bisexual lifestyles, the festival is an important platform for discussion and tolerance and attracts large audiences from both gay and straight communities. International supporters of the fes-tival include such cultural icons as Stephen Fry, Alexander Sokurov, Pedro Almodovar, Gus Van Sant and Ken Loach as well as numerous consulates. The festival includes short, documentary and feature films from across the world, with many directors in attendance for question and answer ses-sions and discussion. Q Tickets 150 - 250Rbl.

Oct Time Event Venue25 19:00 Opening Ceremony + Young

& Wild (Marialy Rivas, Chile, 2012)

AH

26 19:00 Our Story - 10-year Guerrilla Warfare of Beijing Queer Film Festival (Yang Yang, China, 2011)

ZL

26 21:30 Spring Fever (Ye Lou, China, 2009)

ZL

27 16:00 For You Naked (Sara Broos, Sweden, 2012)

ZD

27 18:15 Call Me Kuchu (Katherine Fairfax Wright, Malika Zouhali-Worrall, USA/Uganda, 2012)

ZD

27 21:30 Latin Mix: Short films from latin America

ZD

28 17:00 Codebreaker (Clare Beavan, Nic Stacey, UK, 2011)

ZD

28 19:00 Weekend ((Andrew Haigh, UK, 2011, 96 min)

ZD

28 21:00 Not a Man in Sight (Mette Aakerholm Gardell, Sweden, 2012)

ZD

29 19:30 Invisible Men (Yariv Mozer, Israel, 2012)

LC

29 21:15 Yossi (Etyan Fox, Israel, 2012, 84 min)

LC

30 19:30 Collection of Russian Films: Nachalo

ZD

31 20:00 Beauty (Oliver Hermanus, South Africa, France, Germany, 2011)

LC

Nov Time Event Venue1 19:30 Outrage (Kirby Dick, USA,

2009)ZL

2 20:00 I am a Woman Now (Michiel van Erp, Netherlands, 2011)

ZD

3 16:00 World Shorts AHA3 18:15 Una Noche AHA3 20:00 Closing Ceremony and Awards AHA

Angleterre Hotel Conference Hall (AH) C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.comLigov Cinema (LC) Ligovsky pr. 153, MObvodny kanal, www.karofilm.ruZelenaya Lampa (ZL) C-2, Bankovsky per. 5, MNevsky pr., (+7) 812 406 93 86, www.greenlamp.spb.ruZona Deistviya (ZD) D-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigov-sky pr., (+7) 904 639 42 36, www.zonaspace.ru

Side by Side Festival



09.11 Friday - 11.11 SundayCirque du Soleil: Michael Jackson The Immor-tal World Tour Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 821 380 80 50, www.cds.ru. Another family-friendly visual extravaganza from the Cirque du Soleil team. Immortal is based around the hits of the late, great, Michael Jackson whose family have been collaborating with the Canadian circus group to create this incredible spectacle. The show features the greatest hits such as Thriller, Smooth Criminal, Bad and Black or White as a backdrop to incredible acrobatic moves and costumes loosely inspired by Jackson‘s music videos, but given the inimitable larger-than-life Cirque du Soleil treatment. Shows on 09.11 and 10.11 start at 19:00. The show on 11.11 starts at 17:00. Q Tickets 2,000 - 5,500Rbl.

09.11 Friday - 11.11 SundayDarwin the DinosaurDom Kultury im. Gorkogo, Pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. A light puppet show aimed at pre-teen kids which tells the story of a pet dinosaur named Darwin. A young dinosaur, Darwin begins to learn about the ways of the world and the other creatures of the prehistoric and modern animal kingdom. The show‘s American producers use neon lighting in ingenious ways to create living characters which light up the blacked out stage like a sketch cartoon. Q Tickets 500 - 1,500Rbl.

11.11 Sunday20:00 Anneke van GiersbergenC-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.annekevangiersbergen.com. The former lead singer of Dutch rock band The Gath-ering, Dutchwoman Anneke has also sung with other bands such as Napalm Death, Within Temptation and Moonspell. Early this year she released her first solo album Everything is Changing in which she can be heard adopting a much more pop friendly sound as she launches a new solo career. Q Tickets 900 - 1,500Rbl.

17.11 Saturday - 18.11 Sunday19:00 Turetsky‘s ChoirLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 821 380 80 50, www.arthor.ru. Classically trained singer Mikhail Turetsky and his choir first grew to fame in the late 1980s when they played spiritual Judaic music for Mos-cow‘s Jewish community. As the 1990s wore on, the group be-gan to add other styles to their repertoire training themselves to sing pop, classical, spiritual and nostalgic Broadway hits in a range of languages. The choir now combines real star-quality stage presence with a broad musical repertoire to great success both at home and abroad. As this concert marks Mikhail‘s 50th birthday expect some extra special guests and performances. Q Tickets 1,500 - 12,000Rbl.

November events01.11 Thursday20:00 IAMXC-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.iamx.eu. IAMX is the solo project of Chris Corner formerly of the British electronic band Sneaker Pimps. Not as commercially successful as his previous job but creatively liberating, under the guise of IAMX Chris has embraced the chance to move to Berlin and do whatever the heck he wants. The result has been some highly theatrical electronic rock music accompanied by dark androgynous and outlandish costumes typical of the Berlin indietronica scene. Q Tickets 900 - 2,500Rbl.

08.11 Thursday20:00 Jennifer LopezSport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.jenniferlopez.com. Personally personifying the word ‘bling‘ Jennifer Lopez (or J-Lo as she is sometimes known) often receives more headlines for her extravagant personal styling and high profile relationships than her music or film career. However, in 2012 Jenny from the Block has been back wholeheartedly focusing on her music again releasing a greatest hits album and hitting the road with this tour to promote it. Her recent releases such as the smash hit On the Floor and Goin‘ In have seen her return to the dance beats of her early career. Q Tickets 1,200 - 12,000Rbl.

09.11 Friday20:00 GarbageB-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.garbage.com. Back from an incredibly long hiatus, this concert coincides with the release of the post-punk American/Scottish band‘s first album in seven years - the long awaited Not Your Kind of People. Remarkably this is already the second time this year that the band have visited Russia to play gigs, so something tells us they must have had a very good time last time they were over. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

09.11 Friday20:00 Mindless Self IndulgenceC-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.mindlessselfindulgence.com. The name says it all really. In case you are not already aware of them, MSL are a dark shock rock punk band - or as they personally prefer to describe their sound it‘s ‘industrial-jungle-pussy-punk.‘ The band is best known for its provoca-tive live performances having supported bands such as Korn and Rammstein amongst other big names. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,000Rbl.

Oct Time Event Venue03 - 05 19:00 La Bayadère MIH04, 09 19:30 Swan Lake IHT07 13:00,

19:00Cipollino MIH

07, 09 19:00 Carmen Suite. Divertissement

MCH

10 19:00 Romeo and Juliet MAT10, 11, 13 19:00 Multiplicity. Forms of

Silence and EmptinessMIH

10, 14, 17, 19, 21, 24

20:00 Swan Lake MCT

11 19:00 Giselle MAT13 19:00 Carmen Suite. Le

CarnavalMCH

14 11:30 The Fountain of Bakhchisarai

MAT

17 19:00 Giselle MAT19, 28 19:00 Don Quixote MAT25, 26, 27 19:00 A Midsummer Night’s

DreamMAT

29 19:00 Carmen Suite. Act II from the ballet Giselle

MAT

31 20:00 La Sylphide MIH30, 31 19:00 Without Words. Nunc

Dimittis. MIH

Nov Time Event Venue03 19:00 Without Words. Nunc

Dimittis. MIH

03, 04 19:00 Kings of the Dance. The Best

MIH

04, 15 11:30, 19:00

The Fountain of Bakhchisarai

MAT

08 19:00 Giselle, ou Les Wilis MIH11, 25 13:00,

19:00Cipollino MIH

17, 18 19:00 Laurencia MIH23 19:00 Swan Lake MIH28, 29 19:00 La Sylphide MIH

Ballet

03.11 Saturday23:00 TrancemissionB-1, A2 Club, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.radiorecord.ru. Transmis-sion promises ‘a wave of trance‘ this autumn with its famous all-night trance rave. In previous years the event has attracted international DJs such as Paul van Dyck, Armin van Buuren and Above & Beyond. This year the headline act is the Dutch progressive-trance project Dash Berlin famous for the hit track Waiting. They will be joined at the party by DJs Feel, Richard Durand and W & W. Q Tickets 700 - 1,200Rbl.

Trancemission



21.11 Wednesday - 25.11 SundayBlaze The ShowD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetro-gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 04 38, www.blazetheshow.com. This sensational street dance show brings together the world‘s best street dancers with top choreographers, lighting and set-designers to create an eye-popping dance extravaganza. The show features 16 dancers especially chosen after rigorous auditioning, for their exceptional hip-hop and breakdance abilities. With the help of top choreographers and technicians such as Es Devlin and Patrick Woodroffe (who have helped in the production of shows for Lady Gaga and Michael Jackson to name a few) Blaze is a truly sizzling show filled with incredible talent and showmanship. Q Tickets 1,200 - 3,000Rbl.

24.11 Saturday19:00 SuperdiskotekaSport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 928 10 63, www.radiorecord.ru. Get your retro on with a few thousand other friends at this super-mega-retro-disco-danceatica in celebration of the 1990s. Tracks will be spun by a slew of Russian DJs who have only one goal in mind; to make you move, make you sweat and make you holler for more Euro pop hits from yesteryear. Q Tickets 900 - 3,300Rbl.

24.11 SaturdayTerem QuartetD-2, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.terem-quartet.ru. They might be a folk group, but you‘re not going to see a lot of tie dye and love beads on stage, these guys are far too cool for that. Their instruments, like their compositions, come deep from the heart of Russia and include a massive bass balalaika, an alto and soprano domra plus a bayan. Mixing classical and modern music they‘ve represented their native St. Petersburg in cultural events all over the world and Peter Gabriel counts himself as a fan. Q Tickets TBA.

25.11 Sunday11:30 - 16:00 IWC‘s Winter Charity Bazaar (Hotel Astoria)C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.iwcstpete.com. The International Women‘s Club an-nual winter bazaar, is one of the biggest charity fundraisers of the year and a key event in the expat calendar. Year on year they have proven that they really do have one of the best raffles in the city, although it‘s not just about the prizes, there‘s plenty of other entertainment too. Food stalls, crafts, Christmas gifts, second-hand jumble and live music are also part of the event and best of all is that inner-glow gained from knowing all the money you spend goes to help very worthy local charities. Q Admission free.

30.11 Friday20:00 ScooterB-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.scootertechno.com. By shouting gloriously nonsensical lyrics such as; ‘I want you back so clean up the dish. By the way how much is the fish?‘ over inspired happy hardcore techno beats, Scooter aka H.P Baxter and his dance band have become Germany‘s most successful musical act ever. Bleached blonde lead singer Baxter is known to be extremely energetic in spite of his advancing years and we imagine as usual he will be very demanding of the audience insisting that you move your ass and get on the floor - he likes it loud. Q Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl.

Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket officesand kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and some venues such as the Mariinsky The-atre also sell tickets online. There are also a number of online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets online and most of them offer delivery anywhere in the city for an additional fee. Tickets that are reserved need to be purchased within three days or the reservation expires. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive list-ings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).

Buying Concert Tickets

Oct Time Event Venue03 19:00 Schumann, Bruckner GPH04 19:00 Mozart, Prokofiev GPH05 19:00 Nigel kennedy, violin GPH06 19:00 Debussy, Ravel, Schumann GPH07 19:00 Brahms, Grieg, Sibelius GPH11 19:00 Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven GPH12 19:00 Howard, Paganini, Kilar, Zimmer GPH13 19:00 Organ recital. Matteo Messori

(Italy): BachGPH

14 19:00 Rachmaninov GPH15 19:00 Soloists of Khanty-Mansiysk MCH16 19:00 Sibelius, Brahms GPH17 19:00 Harlem Choir (USA) GPH21 15:00 Glinka, Rimsky-Korsakov,

ShostakovichGPH

24 19:00 Mariinsky Theatre Symphony Orchestra

MCH

24 19:00 Piano Recital. Barry Douglas (Ireland)

GPH

25 19:00 Bach, Haendel, Taneev GPH26 19:00 Rachmaninov GPH27 19:00 Beethoven, Mendelssohn GPH28 19:00 Mozart GPH30 19:00 Raskatov, Schnittke,

TchaikovskyGPH

Nov Time Event Venue01 19:00 Vivaldi, Mendelssohn GPH01 19:00 Thomas Trotter. An evening of

organ musicMCH

02 19:00 Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven GPH03 19:00 Mozart, Henze, Shubert GPH04 19:00 Bach, Mozart, Beethoven GPH08 19:00 Bach, Mendelssohn, Reger,

ReubkeGPH

09 19:00 The State Borodin Quartet MCH09 19:00 Prokofiev, Shostakovich GPH10 19:00 Vivalde, Parish Alvars, Marcello,

DuranteGPH

10, 11

12:00 The Legend of the Beautiful Syuimbike

MCH

11 19:00 Glinka, Borodin, Scryabin, Tchaikovsky

GPH

11 19:00 Nono, Petrassi, Rota, Morricone

GPH

16 19:00 Andreev Imperial Russian Orchestra

GPH

17 19:00 Strauss GPH21 19:00 Tchaikovsky Music Day GPH22 19:00 Igor Butman GPH23 19:00 Organ Recital. Bach, Lemare,

Janka, Liszt, VogtGPH

24 19:00 Estonian National Symphony Orchestra

GPH

30 19:00 Mahler GPH

Classical Music

Oct Time Event Venue01, 02 19:00 JD Walter (USA) JFC03, 06, 20, 27

19:00 Leningrad Dixieland Jazz Band JPH

05 19:00 Saxophone Night: Mikhail Kostushkin's Ensemble

JPH

06 19:00 A. Suvorov Blues Band JFC08 19:00 Western Swing Four JFC10 19:00 Jazz Philharmonic Orchestra JPH11 19:00 Fedor Kuvaitsev's jazz band JPH12 19:00 State Jazz Music Chamber.

Orchestra of O. LundstremGPH

13 19:00 Easy Winners Ragtime Band JFC14 19:00 Peter Brainin (USA) JFC18 19:00 Daniel Kramer and Co GPH19 19:00 Chizhik Jazz Quartet and

Frederik Konradsen JFC

21 19:00 Latin American Jazz Night: Alexander Latin Band, Jazz-dancing

JPH

22 19:00 Jazz and Art Rock. I. Uryash, A. Malich

GPH

26 19:00 Jason Palmer (Boston) JFC28 19:00 Afro-Cuban Jazz Night: Ritmo

Caliente, Jazz-dancingJPH

31 19:00 A tribute to Grover Washington, jr.

JFC

31 19:00 Jazz Violin and Organ Night JPH

At the time of printing only October schedules were available for Jazz Philharmonic Hall and JFC Jazz Club. For November schedule check the website.

Jazz

22.11 ThursdayBloc PartyC-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.blocparty.com. Most famous for their raucous 2004 Brit rock album Silent Alarm, London-based indie-rock band Bloc Party have remained quiet for the last few years after unsuccessfully drifting into electronic music and working on various ‘side projects’. Hap-pily in 2011 the band reformed and released a new album Four in late August 2012, which sees Bloc Party going back to the guitar rock band roots which made their debut album such a winner. Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl.


18 19exHibitionsexHibitions

Champions League action is returning to Petrovsky Stadium this autumn. Zenit will open home play vs. Italian giants A.C. Milan on October 3rd. The match is a historic first-ever meeting for the two clubs in Champions League play. Zenit will be looking to improve on its best-ever result from last season, when Petersburg’s finest made it to the round of 16 of Europe’s top club tournament. A.C. Milan, meanwhile, has won the European Cup/Champions League 7 times, second only to Real Madrid. Zenit will then host Anderlecht of Brussels, Belgium, on October 24th. This meeting will be a rematch of the two teams’ Europa League meeting in 2010, when Zenit won 3:1 both home and away. Lastly, Zenit will host its last group stage home match vs. Champions League newcomer Málaga CF on November 21st, in what could provide to be a deciding game for the group standings. Zenit then goes to play A.C. Milan at San Siro Stadium in the penultimate group stage match on December 4th.Zenit made two new star additions to its squad in the last hour before Champions League player sheets were due on September 3rd. First Zenit signed Brazilian national team forward Hulk, who has been a top scorer both in Japan and in Portugal. Last year Zenit won 3:1 over Porto in the Champions League, when Hulk was still a Porto player, but even then Zenit fans could see his raw power and skill on the pitch. Now the well-muscled Brazilian will be wearing Zenit’s blue-white-sky blue colors. Thirty minutes after signing Hulk, Zenit then announced the signing of Axel Witsel, a Belgian national team halfback who also played club football in Portugal, but for Benfica. Witsel can serve as a defensive mid or playmaker. The two signings cost Zenit 80 million Euros, and it’s now time for the dynamic duo to show their value on the pitch. Zenit will also be playing home matches in the Russian Premier League on October 20th vs. Kuban, on November 3rd vs. Rostov, and on November 26th vs. CSKA. More information on Zenit’s Champions League perfor-mance and new players is available at the club’s official website in English at en.fc-zenit.ru.Oct Fixture3 Zenit - A.C. Milan20 Zenit - Kuban 24 Zenit – AnderlechtNov3 Zenit - Rostov21 Zenit - Málaga CF26 Zenit – CSKA

Petrovsky Stadium (PS) C-1 MSportivnaya

FC Zenit

Vyacheslav Evdokimov / FC Zenit

ExhibitionsThrought 08.10 MondayRealism in Russian Art of the second part of 20th centuryD-2, The Russian Museum, Benois Wing, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. Realism is an artistic style which has been a driving force in Russian art through much of the 20th Century. Under Stalin‘s rule Soviet realism became an officially sanctioned style. However, during the post-war period many talented Russian painters became such masters of a certain style of realism, that their art began to portray a wide range of emotions and ask much deeper questions than perhaps the Soviets had originally intended them too. This exhibition, based on private collections from Moscow, shows the variety of Russian realist art from the village scenes of the Tkachev brothers to the tragedy and fatalism seen in Gely Korzhev‘s canvases. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

Throught 15.10 MondayPablo Picasso. ParagraphsC/D-2, Art-Centre, Dumskaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 31 02, www.artcentrspb.ru. Yet another angle of the great artist‘s genius is examined with this col-lection of 30 sketches made by Picasso during different periods of his career. Drawings made during his blue and pink periods number amongst the work on show alongside surrealist and cubist sketches and snippets from his designs for Guernica, Toros and toreros and Les bleus de Barcelone. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Throught 22.10 MondayUnknown artistD-2, The Russian Museum, Benois Wing, Nab. kan. Griboedova, 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. Incredible works of art often find themselves in historic museum collections without names or dates, meaning the identities of the original artists or indeed of the painting‘s owner or subject are forever lost to those who admire their work. This exhibition will highlight the Russian Museum‘s own expansive collection of such anony-mous artworks. 200 canvases and sculptures mainly from the late 17th to 19th Centuries are on display in a thematic exhibition which groups the impressive artworks together into portraiture, landscape and still life. As the museum itself states, this is a unique opportunity to show the artworks of those destined to never be famous in the same style as those who will forever be internationally recognised. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon. 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

06.10 Saturday - 13.01 SundayJake and Dinos Chapman and Francisco GoyaC-2, The Stage Hermitage Museum, The Winter Palace, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This unusual exhibition demonstrates how the historic Hermitage museum really is following its ambition to gradually introduce visitors to the famous museum to difficult contemporary works of art. This show by the controversial British Chapman brothers will be centred around one of their most recent large-scale instal-lations The End of Fun. The hellish vision, populated by brutal Nazis, is a harsh and graphic look at the brutality and cruelty of war. The installation will be complimented by an exhibition of the Chapman‘s sketches Horrors of War, inspired by Goya‘s series of the same name. In conjunction with the modern exhibition the museum will also display its own collec-tion of more than 40 original sketches by Goya, side-by-side with the modern version. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sun. 10-30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Throught 31.12 MondayKutuzov and the 1812 warD-2, Military-Historical Museum of Artillery, Engineering and Communications Forces, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Military enthusiast will find that St. Petersburg‘s artillery museum has now added a biography of one of Russia‘s most celebrated military leaders to its collection. This exhibition devoted to Mikhail Kutuzov, sheds light on his earlier years with the help of various historical artifacts as well as focuses on his role at the helm of the Russian army during the Napoleonic wars. Space is also given over to detailing the General‘s family legacy. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Throught 11.11 Sunday The origins of Russian Slavs and VikingsB-2, Museum-institute of the Roerichs, VO, 18-ya linya 1, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 08 85, www.roerich.spb.ru. For the first time in over a hundred years a collection of Nikolai Roerich‘s Slavic paintings will be on show in St. Petersburg put together with the help of private collec-tors and museums in Moscow. The centerpiece of the show is Roerich‘s enchanting early painting Messenger which is said to have inspired everyone from Tolstoy to Rimsky-Korsakov. Although Nikolai Roerich is very well known for his mystical paintings of the Himalayas and central Asia, this exhibition will show how his attachment to the history and culture of the Slavs was often the main source of the painter and anthropologist‘s inspiration, both in artistic and scientific terms. In particular the paintings chosen show how Slavic and Scandinavian cultures have influenced each other through the ages. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Throught 31.12 MondayThe cursed civil warD-1, State museum of political history of Russia, Ul. Kuibysheva 2/4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. This is the last chance to catch this long running exhibition dedicated to the Russian revolu-tion and the civil war which followed it. The exhibition aims to shed light on both sides of the story with uniforms, weapons and the personal belongings of Bolshevik and Tsarist soldiers placed side-by-side. Of particular interest are the propaganda posters of the opposing sides which show how the sources and directions of the struggles were depicted by the whites and the reds. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed. 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Thu and last Mon of the month.

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Positioned on the eastern flank of the famous Golden Ring, for many Vladimir is often a jumping point for visits to the famous beautiful Russian village of Suzdal which lies 50 minutes away by bus. However, as one of the most important towns of ancient Rus, Vladimir is a destination in its own rights and it is worth sticking around to see its numerous UNESCO protected sights and soak up some local history.

SightseeingVladimir’s main sights; the spectacular 12th Century Assumption Cathedral, the Golden Gates and the UNESCO protected ancient stone Church on the Nerl in the neighbouring village of Bogolyubovo, can easily be visited in one day, although as the town offers many decent restaurants and a plethora of accommodation options, staying in Vladimir can also be a lively alternative to staying overnight in sleepy Suzdal.

Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Sobor) Sobornaya Ploschad. Vladimir‘s must-see sight is the impressive Assump-tion Cathedral originally built in the 12th Century. Until the political capital of ancient Rus was permanently moved to Moscow in the 14th Century, it was here that the crown princes of the powerful Vladimir-Suzdal region were crowned and married. For centuries this was the biggest cathedral in Russia and it is known to have been the inspiration for the Assumption Cathedral in Moscow‘s Kremlin. The building managed to miraculously survive the Tatar-Mongol attack of the city in 1238 although the interiors have seen changes over the centuries. In 1408 the celebrated icon painter Andrei Rublyev gave the cathedral its frescoes, which are considered to be some of the master‘s greatest work. Fragments of Rublyev‘s frescoes can still be seen although most of the current decor dates back to the 19th Century. The baroque iconostasis was installed at the behest of Catherine the Great in the late 18th Century. Still a working church this is an incredibly atmospheric and intimate place illuminated only by the many candles left by the pious and the daylight streaming in at slanted angles from the high windows.

Stoletov House Ul. Stoletovykh 1, tel. (+7) 492 232 42 65, www.museum.vladimir.ru. This pretty little wooden house was once home to some of Vladimir‘s most successful residents. The Stoletov family lived here in the 19th Century. One of the sons of the family was an army General in the Turko-Russian war and was credited with a fantastic victory in Bulgaria and various military flags, uniforms, weapons, medals and sketches testify to his successful career. Another of the Stoletov family sons, Alexander, left his legacy in the field of physics. A celebrated scientist he now has a statue outside Moscow‘s State University. Alexander specialised in the field of electromagnetism and his numerous scientific instruments are presented here alongside correspondence from his many peers in Russia, Germany and Britain. The period furniture and décor of the house has been immaculately recreated although unfortunately there is no information in English. Q Open 10:00 -17:00, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Thu. Entrance 50Rbl.

Water tower Kozlov val, tel. (+7) 492 232 42 63, www.museum.vladimir.ru. This 19th Century water tower now houses a small exhibition of photos and models depicting life in Vladimir during the 19th Century. The main reason for visiting is to climb the stairs up to the viewing platform at the top which has a nice view over the town and the surrounding countryside. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Rbl.

HotelsErlangen House Ul. Bol Nizhergorodskaya 25, tel. (+7) 492 232 37 95, www.erlangen.ru. This gorgeous restored wooden town house with a delightful flower filled garden and sun deck, is one of the best accommodation options in town and accordingly is frequently booked out. The mini-hotel is run with the help of Vladimir‘s twin city Erlangen in Germany who rescued the historic building from near ruin and the Goethe Institut now runs classes from its own classrooms on the ground floor. The Teutonic influence is visible across the building from the bright, fresh and unfussy decor to the visibly good German quality fittings. Breakfast is available on request and the small kitchen/dining area is free for guests to use. Q5 rooms (singles 2200 - 2800Rbl, doubles 3200 - 3700Rbl, triples 4500Rbl). PHALGBW

Hotel Monomakh Ul. Gogolya 20, tel. (+7) 492 244 04 44, www.monomahhotel.com. A smallish hotel in a 19th Century brick house conveniently located a short distance from the Golden Gates and Vladimir‘s main street Bolshaya Moskovskaya. In the summer a large and quiet terrace is opened in the hotel‘s rear, while there‘s also a Russian restaurant in the hotel itself. The rooms are decorated in a clean modern style and come in a variety of shapes and sizes depending on where in the building they are located. The hotel also offers extra services such as excursions and car rental. Q16 rooms (singles 2300 - 3000Rbl, doubles 3500 - 5400Rbl). Price of room includes a discount for the hotel‘s restaurant. PTHA6LBKW

VlAdimir

Church of the intercession on the Nerl Bogolyubovo village. Standing alone in the middle of a meadow this solitary little white stone church commands a remote and romantic position on the bank of the small Nerl river and is recognised by UNESCO as an outstanding example of Russian white stone architecture. Its tall slender shape is the result of unique proportions which include 4 metre high walls topped by a tall dome. Inside, the church is tiny. Half of the area is occupied by the iconostasis, and the small floorspace and poor light have meant that it is impossible to hold services here although the faithful still arrive to leave candles and kiss the icons.GETTING THERE: Take bus 152 to Bogolyubovo (journey time around 20mins), exit at the monastery and follow the road heading away from Vladimir for about 200metres until you reach a road on your right leading down to the train station. Cross over the tracks and follow the path through the meadows. The walk should take around 25 minutes.

Golden Gates Ul. Dvoryanskaya/ul. bol. Moskovskaya, www.vladmuseum.ru. This imposing structure was built in the mid-12th Century in emulation of the city gates which existed in other great Orthodox cities such as Constantinople and Kiev. Nowadays it is one of the few remaining examples of old Russian city gates. Originally the structure was topped by a church although nowadays all that can be seen is the dome. There is a small military museum near the top of the building dedicated to weapons and uniforms from various Russian battles over the centuries including the Russo-Turkish wars and World War II. The main focal point is the colourful diorama showing the invasion of Vladimir by the Tatar-Mongol horde in 1237. No information in English. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu. Admission 50Rbl.

Museum of crystal, lace and lacquer miniatures Troitsky Church, ul. Dvoryanskaya 2, tel. (+7) 492 232 24 29, www.vladmuseum.ru. In the upper part of this former church is a small display of incredibly detailed lacquer boxes made in the local area, while downstairs is dedicated to the colourful works produced by the Gus-Krustalny glass factory. Vases, wine glasses and decanters all feature in all shapes, sizes and colours inspired by different artistic move-ments during the last century. In the basement of the building is a small shop selling contemporary products from the fac-tory. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 50Rbl.

Palaty - cultural-educational museum centre Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 58, tel. (+7) 492 232 24 29, www.vladmuseum.ru. Across the first floor is a range of small rooms aimed at children which are manned by staff in costume ready to give a history lesson (in Russian) and detail various different aspects of local history. Most visitors would be best to skip this part and head straight to the art collection on the second floor. The art on display ranges from the late 18th Century through to the early 20th Century and includes works by artists such as Shishkin, Makovsky and Levitan. One of Rublyev‘s most famous icons is also kept here. In addition there‘s a decent collection of art from local artists and some beautiful 19th Century furniture. The top floor is dedicated to temporary exhibits. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Mon, Thu 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Entrance costs 50Rbl for each floor.

VlAdimir

There are two long distance trains a day from St. Pe-tersburg which pass through Vladimir on their way east leaving from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) at 15:20 and 17:20. The journey takes around 11 hours and unfortunately trains arrive in the town in the dead of night. Most people travelling out to the Golden Ring from St. Petersburg prefer to take the overnight train to Moscow and travel at their leisure from there. On the return leg (Vladimir-St. Petersburg) arrival times are marginally better with trains departing at 18:00 and 22:26 and ar-riving in St. Petersburg at 05:41 and 09:43 respectively.

Getting There


23hotels22

Park Hotel Voznesenskaya Sloboda Ul. Voznesens-kaya 14b, tel. (+7) 492 232 54 94, www.vsloboda.ru. A fancy holiday village on the side of the hill and secluded from the main bustle of the town centre but still within reasonable walking distance to the sights. The Park Hotel’s winning features are its panoramic views over the countryside and its excellent restaurant. The various buildings of the complex house a choice of spacious and bright rooms in European or traditional Russian styles. The complex also boasts a sauna and swimming pool and barbeque facilities. Q (doubles 4600Rbl). PHALBKDCW

Vinyl Hostel Ul. Studyonaya Gora 14, flat 12, tel. (+7) 492 247 46 01/(+7) 920 944 78 88, www.vinylhostel.com. Located in a nicely converted new apartment, Vinyl Hostel is extremely clean and quiet and complimented by modern facilities. There‘s a kitchen-common room with a big TV and zillions of beanbags although on the bathroom front there‘s only one shower and two toilets. It is a ten minute walk from the Golden Gates and about 30minutes walk from the train station. It is worth noting that there‘s no number on the building, or for that matter on any of the buildings nearby. The building you are looking for is directly opposite the church. The entrance is in the rear (ring the buzzer for flat 12) where there‘s a small kid‘s play area. Q3 rooms (12 persons dorm 400Rbl, 1 10 persons dorm 400Rbl, 1 6 persons dorm 400Rbl). Breakfast not included. TARLGW

Head to our website russia.inyourpocket.com

to see our full instant guide to the Golden Ring region.

VlAdimir

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast un-less otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period October - November 2012. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing, that we have not been informed about directly by hotels.

5 StarsAngleterre Hotel C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAd-miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterre-hotel.com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also pe-riodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac‘s are unparalleled from their deluxe suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. International ex-hibited painter Marina Fedorova‘s cheeky, pop culture infused paintings adorn Borsalino, while photos of the Mikhailovsky ballet company liven up hallways of the upper storeys. Q193 rooms (103 singles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, doubles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, 4 suites 49,000 - 82,000Rbl, 12 Executive 30,000 - 31,000Rbl, 3 superior deluxe 32,500 - 33,500Rbl, 49 deluxe 29,000 - 30,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,600Rbl. Break-fast 1,350Rbl. PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh

Astoria C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, MAdmiralteis-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.roccofortehotels.com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral stair-case, Rotonda lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, Kandinsky whiskey and cigar bar and Davidov restaurant. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q211 rooms (169 doubles 36,000 - 41,000Rbl, 42 suites 51,000 - 166,500Rbl). 211 rooms (169 doubles 10,000 - 18,000Rbl, 42 suites 30,000 - 100,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,400Rbl. Breakfast 1,650Rbl. PHAFGKDW hhhhh

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromis-ing of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (43 suites 41,530 - 258,080Rbl, 345 single/double 18,150 - 24,600Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-2, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. The architects have made a clever reconstruction of the historic building, offering entrances and views both onto the picturesque Moika canal and the art-nouveau Bolshaya Morskaya street. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installa-tions. Up in the rooms there‘s ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Domina‘s aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, it‘s an experience. Q109 rooms (2 singles 10,500Rbl, 104 doubles 10,500Rbl, 3 suites 16,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGBKDwW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, fax (+7) 812 329 60 01, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar, authen-tic Chinese at Chopsticks or Italian at Rossi‘s. For fine dining, L‘Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q301 rooms (52 suites 22,900 - 92,700Rbl, 13 Historic Room 14,800Rbl, 88 Superior Room 11,900Rbl, 109 Deluxe Room 13,200Rbl, 17 Terrace Room 17,900Rbl). Extra bed 2,500Rb. Breakfast 2,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhhh

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant M Nearest metro station

D Sauna C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection

Symbol Key

Steeped in medieval history and more than 1,000 years old, a visit to the sleepy village of Suzdal is like stepping back into a golden bygone era. The streets are lined with brightly coloured traditional wooden houses, star-sprinkled domes pepper the meandering rural landscape and black robed nuns and monks dash around the town’s squares on their way to services. There’s plenty to see including two large monasteries as well as an ancient kremlin and the museum of old wooden architecture.

GETTING THERE: From Vladimir bus station buses leave every hour to Suzdal. The journey takes 50minutes – make sure you give the driver an extra 20Rbl to take you into the centre of the town.

Suzdal

Bars and RestaurantsKozlovitsa Torgovy Ryady (entrance in the rear), ul. bol. Moskovskaya 19a, tel. (+7) 492 245 15 85, www.kozlovica.ru. This Czech beer restaurant is a brilliant place to pop by if you‘re a fan of meat and good quality Czech beer. All the dishes are very nicely presented and the portions are immense. There‘s the usual sausages as well as bigger meat feasts like pork knuckles and ribs to choose from plus heaving platters of goodies to share. The soups are hearty and filling and in traditional style some are also served inside a bread loaf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALEBW

Shesh Besh Ul. bol. Moskovskaya 78, tel. (+7) 492 242 11 66. A great value choice if you want to spice up your life in Vladimir. This Azeri restaurant, part of a Moscow based chain, has all the Caucasian favourites such as sizzling shashliki (shish kebabs), spicy soups, khinkali (giant dumplings) and toasty khachapuri (stuffed cheese breads). The interior is classic kitsch Caucasian fun with fake trees, colourful carpets on the walls and wait staff in traditional costume. It can get really busy and service slows to a snail pace so don‘t come here if you are in a hurry to be somewhere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PAW

Sobornaya Ploschad Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 39, tel. (+7) 492 232 57 25. One of the most popular bars in town (aside from the scary techno joints further along the road) this is a friendly place with a nice mix of young locals enjoy-ing quiet drinks with friends. The interior has a retro music theme and is plastered with photos of rock stars, guitars, records and the like and occassionally the bar follows its theme and hosts concerts. The food is an average mix of low priced Russian/European dishes. Nice beer terrace out front. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €. EG

Traktir Ul. Letnye-Perevozinskaya 1a, tel. (+7) 492 32 41 62. An atmospheric wooden hut located a short distance from the Golden Gates, which is one of the better places in town to sample some Russian cuisine. The extensive Russian menu is fairly priced and the food is good hearty traditional stuff. The colourful traditional décor is a plus, as is the shashlik grill and in the summer there‘s a summer terrace with large inside area. Watch out for the deafening live music Thu- Sat. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €. AEB

Traveler‘s Coffee Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 10, tel. (+7) 492 242 13 55, www.travelerscoffee.ru. Part of a Rus-sian/American coffee chain which is very popular in Siberia, Traveler‘s is a reliable place to stop and get a hot drink, a slice of cake or a light snack and happily they open early for breakfast too. The choice of coffees and teas is extensive and enticing and the design is modern, comfortable and colourful. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €. PAW


24 hotels 25hotels

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky D-3, Li-govsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with art deco accents and the reception desk which is conveniently headed by flat screen televisions listing information for any conference groups in attendance. Each of the standard rooms have everything the modern businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar and above standard bath facilities, while the beds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. Amenities include a brightly hued 24 hour fitness centre, underground parking and a Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (183 doubles 5,685Rbl, 3 suite 12,884Rbl, 9 deluxe suite 8,337Rbl). Extra bed - 50% of current rate. Breakfast 990Rbl. PHAUFLGKW hhhh

Holiday Inn Saint-Petersburg Moskovskye Vo-rota A-4, Moskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 71, www.hi-spb.com. This huge newly built hotel has the business traveller firmly in mind. There are three bars and two restaurants, a fitness centre and extensive state-of-the-art conference facilities. The rooms have all the mod-cons including under-floor heating. The executive suites have floor to ceiling windows with panaromic views, especially if you are on the 17th floor. Ideally located for getting to the airport (about 25 minutes by bus) and right next to the metro. Q557 rooms (361 singles 5,747 - 6,377Rbl, 33 suites 9,187 - 9,817Rbl, 98 Executive 6,177 - 6,807Rbl, 65 Deluxe 6,607 - 7,237Rbl). Extra bed 700Rbl. Breakfast 630Rbl. PTHAUFL�GBKW hhhh

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ul. Maya-kovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are new, modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-ar t conference rooms and a fi tness centre. Q233 rooms (16 suites 8,600 - 9,200Rbl, 217 Single/double 5,500 - 7,500Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 800Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

Radisson Royal Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi-mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the well-trained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the lovely renovated Barbazan Res-taurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample confer-ence and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (116 singles 25,000Rbl, 116 doubles 25,000Rbl, 18 suites 41,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUF�GKW hhhhh

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, VO, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walk-ways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (21 suites 9,000 - 9,500Rbl, 21 apartments 11,000 - 11,500Rbl, 324 single/double 5,000 - 6,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast 1,100Rbl. PTHAR6UFLGB�KDCW hhhhh

Taleon Imperial Hotel C-2, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiral-teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperial-hotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St Petersburg, the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there‘s a spa with summer terrace and wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (72 singles 26,000Rbl, 17 doubles 26,000Rbl, 40 suites 31,200 - 350,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLG�BKDCW hhhhh

W St. Petersburg C-2, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiral-teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg.com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisti-cated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (127 singles, 127 doubles, 10 suites). Breakfast 1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room type. PTHAR�6UFGBKDCW hhhhh

4 StarsCourtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel B-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the reason-ably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on Kanal Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (167 singles 6,000Rbl, 100 doubles 6,000Rbl, 5 suites 9,000Rbl, 1 wedding suite 11,900Rbl). VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) not included. PTHARUFLGKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There‘s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (6 suites 15,500 - 18,000Rbl, 190 Deluxe 6,500 - 9,000Rbl, 12 Studio 9,500 - 12,000Rbl, 6 Junior Suite 12,500 - 15,000Rbl). Breakfast 985Rbl., not included in Suite/Junior Suite rates. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the city‘s first airport hotel. The Crowne Plaza building is brand new and looks fantastic. A modern design on the building‘s facade includes quirky windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference room space. There‘s a spa and fitness area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (6 suites 8,000Rbl, 43 Club Rooms 6,500Rbl, 245 Single/Double 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT not included. PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh

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Baltic Hotels Aliance Pr. Veteranov 147, lit B, MPr. Veteranov, tel. (+7) 812 300 48 10, www.hotel-in-petersburg.comOffering hotel booking services for any budget, whether you’re a jet-setting mogul in search of a five star hotel, an independent traveler seeking a hostel or a family in need of a short-term flat. They also provide visa support, can arrange transport or hire cars for their clients and organise tours in and around the city. Essentially, all of your travel concerns are taken care of by just one company.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hotel Booking

Back in the bad old days, a Russian concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security guard, checking the com-ings and goings of guests and offering little in terms of local knowledge and professional expertise. Thank fully those days have long since passed and nowadays the role of concierge is one taken as seriously in Russia as in any other western country. In fact numerous St. Petersburg hotels now have concierges who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929. Look out for members of staff wearing the distinctive golden keys badge on their lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Hotel Europe and Corinthia. These highly qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can book tickets and make reser-vations for you, recommend restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help you find a good tailor.

Les Clefs’ d’Or


27RestauRants26 hotels

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpeterburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone‘s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn‘t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfort-ably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. A great choice for those here to enjoy the city‘s tourist delights. Q269 rooms (32 singles 5,300 - 11,300Rbl, 235 doubles 6,000 - 12,000Rbl, 2 suites 11,300 - 18,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. P1TJHAUFLGKW hhhh

Radisson Sonya Hotel D-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCher-nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bath-rooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky‘s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173 rooms (2 suites 16,000 - 16,600Rbl, 130 Standard Single/Double 6,000 - 6,600Rbl, 41 Business Single/Double 8,400 - 9,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl. P1THA6UFGKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden B-3, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even designed using NASA technology. The size differ-ence between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (13 suites 6,500 - 7,300Rbl, 348 single/double 3,500 - 5,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast (850Rbl) not included. PTHAR6UFL�GKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-2, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg www.sokoshotels.fi brings yet more Finnish style and sophis-tication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you‘ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older side of Vasilevsky Island, it‘s good for those interested in sightseeing. Q255 rooms (197 Standard 5,400 - 5,900Rbl, 36 Superior 6,200 - 6,700Rbl, 10 Mansard room 6,900 - 7,400Rbl, 12 Suite 8,400 - 8,900Rbl, 1 Executive Suite 10,400 - 10,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Registration 150Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

Na Zdorovie! D-1, Bolshoy pr. 13/4, Petrograd Side, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 40 39, old.concord-catering.ru/restaurants/na-zdorovie/. This cheerful, cosy restaurant called Na Zdorovie (Russian for ‚to your health!‘) serves excellent Russian and Soviet cuisine. It is a good restaurant for tourists looking for a taste of typical Russian food. Take our word for it, everything we tried here tasted re-ally fresh - as if a Russian babushka (grandmother) prepared it herself. Don‘t forget to try the typical Russian drinks kvas and mors. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEBSW

NEP D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 37 22, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a de-lightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself part of the night‘s entertainment. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:30 €€. PAEBSW

Russian Kitch C-2, VO, Universitetskaya nab. 25, MVas-ileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 11 22, old.concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-kitch/. Is that Brezhnev and Castro we see kissing on the ceiling? Bear rugs, sumptuous cushions, multi-coloured walls, leopard print sofas, embellished pillars - could it get more kitsch than this? This restaurant is ironic on a grand scale in a grand location, overlooking the river Neva, with six dining halls, a conservatory and a dance floor. If it‘s vodka and caviar you‘re after, they have both black and red caviar with blini and many types of vodka - and the general cuisine is great. The waiter was so quick we could hardly finish our dishes! QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALES

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St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Menus in English available unless otherwise stated. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service.Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course:€ - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

RussianDachniki C-2, Nevsky pr. 20, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 91 60. There‘s something about this place which feels genuinely reminiscent of a real Russian dacha. Perhaps it‘s the log cabin walls, the crazy crockery or the kitsch porcelain figurines, or maybe it‘s the fact that the wait staff are wearing flowery aprons over their everyday clothes and there‘s some guys playing cards in the corner…well whatever it is, this piece of Soviet nostalgia has some soul to it. The menu specialises in those simple favourites such as draniki (potato pancakes) and kotlety (meat pat-ties) and includes lots of vegetarian options. Complimenting the theme they have an open barbeque for grilling meat and offer their own homemade alcohol. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €. PTAGSW

Levin C-2, Malaya Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere, with books lining the walls and comfortable couches and chairs. Their menu has a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very ac-comdating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and free wifi. The service is among the fastest you‘ll find in St. Petersburg - you‘re not going to waste fifteen minutes waiting for someone to bring you a menu. It‘s not usually very busy or loud, so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW

Mari Vanna D-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend‘s house - and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you‘ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borshch, pelmeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW

3 StarsHerzen House C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, MAdmi-ralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. Central and clean, Herzen House is at the top of four floors on the lovely Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa and has been completely renovated. Simple and convenient, with 20 rooms across one floor, the twin superior is spacious with modern upholstery and a choice of views onto the courtyard or street. There are tiled terracotta floors and a good buffet area to feast on a hot breakfast or in which to enjoy an afternoon tea around the samovar with Russian musical accompaniment. Free Wi-fi and 24hr internet access in the reception, DVDs and kids toys can be borrowed from reception. Q21 rooms (6 Standard 4,700 - 6,900Rbl, 8 Comfort 5,100 - 7,900Rbl, 13 Superior 5,500 - 8,300Rbl, 2 Deluxe 5,900 - 9,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,400Rbl. PTAGW hhh

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. Smart and clean with the appear-ance of an upmarket hotel, the new Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (3 suites 6,500 - 10,500Rbl, 218 single/double 3,500 - 5,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast not included (480 Rbl). PHAULGKW hhh

HostelsCubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd f loor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cuba-hostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there‘s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink at Atelierbar a few minutes‘ walk away. The staff organise events including regular banya trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (dorm beds 490 - 800Rbl). JRLNGW

P Air conditioning A Credit cards acceptedE Live music S Take awayT Child friendly U Facilities for the disabledG Non-smoking areas L Guarded parkingB Outside seating W Wi-Fi connectionV Home delivery M Nearest metro station

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28 RestauRants 29RestauRants

Foggy Dew Ul. Vosstaniya 39, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 62 63, www.foggydewpub.ru. Foggy Dew is a small establishment near Chernyshevskaya, and has two more locations in the city. The clientele seems to lean heavily toward businessmen in the area, who like to sit at the bar and chat with their favorite bartenders while watching sports. They have a good selection of whisky and beer from the British Isles. The prices, at first glance, seem a bit steep for the kind of food you are get-ting (Irish pub food classics, heavy on the roast beef, with a couple of Russian favorites thrown in), but if you come Monday through Friday from 12-4, all of the food on the menu is 20% off. So if it‘s lunchtime and you want a beer that was not brewed by Baltika, you could do worse. Also at Chkalovsky pr. 58 (metro Petrogradskaya). QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAS

Kriek Brasserie D-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 235 46 21, www.kriek.ru. With five boutique beers on tap including the namesake of the brasserie itself, Timmermans Kriek, this is a place more to wet your whistle than fill your stomach. If you are looking for a glass of cold sweet cherry beer and Belgian chocolate, then this place will be the answer to your prayers. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. €. PAES

Beer RestaurantsBaltika Brew C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 3/5, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 09 12, www.baltika-brew.ru. Located in a monolithic example of Soviet neoclassicism and just a stone‘s throw from Palace Square, there‘s not much that‘s “micro” about this brew restaurant. The space is vast, with towering ceilings and an open floor-plan that could lead to some interesting discussions with fellow beer afficianados or just make you feel a bit lost. They feature live music at the weekends and while everything on the menu is delicious, we recommend the Indian dishes, especially the lamb samosas and curry. Cavernous or not, the friendly service, tasty pints and gorgeous food will keep us coming back for more. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW

Der Spieler C-2, Stolyarny per. 13, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 30, www.derspieler.ru. Der Spiegel is located on the street where Crime and Punishment‘s Raskolnikov was supposed to have lived, and indeed, the menu of the restaurant informs you that Dostoevsky himself used to frequent a traktir that was at this very location, and Turgenev was a fan as well. They purport to keep the spirit of this traktir alive through present day, with the exposed beams and wood-heavy interior decorations and games available for guests to play that would have been there for Dostoevsky (a noted gambler) to partake in. The modern rock music and large screen television, however, make it hard to transport yourself back to the era they claim to try to emulate. As the name implies, it‘s a German pub, and they have a relatively large menu for a pub, with many soups and salads and hearty entrees. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PASW

Yolki-Palki D-3, Nevsky pr. 88, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 15 94, www.elki-palki.ru. Aimed at the tourist mar-ket, this slightly cheesy Russian eatery packs in both Russians and foreigners alike. They come here for the good value meals, the staff mincing around in traditional costume and that aromatic smell of shashlik from behind the grill. Sit under the plastic forest canopy (somehow this is oddly appealing), while filling up on an all-you-can-eat plate from the buffet wagons or order something from the menu. Also at Malaya Konyushennaya 9, tel. (+7) 812 571 03 85. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTANBS

AsianKing Pong C-2, Bolshaya Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteis-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‚European‘ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGBSW

Tandoor C-2, Admiralteisky pr.10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac‘s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 15 years now they‘ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant‘ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city‘s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW

Tandoori Nights C-2, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteis-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb.com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. There‘s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. Free wifi. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PASW

BakeriesBushe bakery C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 53 71, www.bushe.ru. They have wonderful croissants and cakes for special occasions. Bread comes in all shapes and sizes, with grains, with seeds, with or without fruit. Also at Ul. Razezzhaya 13, tel. (+7) 812 315 53 71 QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €. PTANGS

Gosti C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Dining in this continental cafe is a bit like going to your provincial granny‘s cottage. If your granny has as much taste as she does knick-knacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of florals, books and decorative odds and ends on the wall, but the effect is homey rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals. Q Open 08:00 until last guest €€. PTAEGBSW

Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually finds its way into everything.

Bliny and snacksSnacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). Pan-cakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgush-onka - сгущенка).

Soups and saladsRussians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка). Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.

Main dishesPelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali - хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands.Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cab-bage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns.Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina - говядина) or pork (svinina - свинина). Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.

Russian Cuisine

Sukhoe = DryPolusladkoe = Semi-sweet

Sladkoe = Sweet



EuropeanCanvas C-2, Pochtamtskaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 00, www.renaissancesaintpeters-burg.ru. Tucked away in the back of the Renaissance hotel, the discreet Canvas restaurant is an obvious choice for quiet lunch meetings - especially when you add in the large weekday business lunch offer which also includes a Russian tea table with samovar. The menu changes regularly but by and large the focus is Russian and European with subtle international touches. Service is charming and efficient and the wait staff must be commended for their professional approach and friendly attitude. Q Open 6:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. €€€€. Breakfast 1,250Rbl., business-lunch 650Rbl. PTAEBSW

Côté Jardin D-3, Novotel, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3a, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 60/(+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Like everything else in this smart hotel, the Côté Jardin restaurant is light, airy and fresh. The business lunch buffets are quite a steal, while the evening menu offers authentic Russian tastes as well as French-inspired European cuisine. For starters look out for the ‚baltic plate‘ (pickled herring, smoked and marinated salmon, red caviar and black bread plus a shot of vodka) or the classic borsch if you want something local. Opting for the Mediterranean influenced part of the menu is especially tempting too, the chef gives everything a light and fresh touch and the sea bass in provencal herbs for example is particularly popular. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30. €€. PTAULSW

Gymnazya C-2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 21, MAdmiral-teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 933 07 58, www.gimnazya.ru. Before the Bolshevik revolution there was a very well to do girls gymnasium school here (hence the name) and before that the building was part of a huge luxurious palace (hence the stun-ning interiors). Gymnazya still pays homage to its aristocratic history. Its many impressive halls are resplendent and feature restored interiors, plush furniture and sumptuous curtains draped across the 6 metre high walls. Modern hints are added to give things an up-to-date twist with contemporary murano glass chandeliers, jazzy-funk live music, a cocktail bar and a menu that boasts Russian and European classic dishes as well as Asian fusion and Japanese cuisine. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALEBSW

Metamorfos E-2, Radisson Sonya Hotel, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 06, www.radissonblu.com. This stylish Russian restaurant ticks all the boxes for those who are looking to sample real Russian food with a modern twist. The interior was designed by the wildest imaginations of famous contemporary Swedish designers and the menu mixes up traditional Russian favou-rites with flair. It‘s possible to spend time just philosophising over the menu itself, which has been designed to reflect a Dostoevskian novel. It‘s Russian, but not as you would usually know it. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Bar open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAUSW

Marius Pub D-3, Ul. Marata 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 48 80, www.mariuspub.ru. Marius is con-veniently located in a hotel next to the Mayakovskaya metro station. The atmosphere is a little bit more formal than what one thinks of when you think of a „pub.“ It is more of a place that you would go to for a nice meal, rather than just hang out and watch the game. They also do not have as many different kinds of beers as you might expect from a place that bills itself as a pub. It is a Czech-themed pub, rather than a British or Irish one, so the menu leans more Central European, with lots of sausage and goulash. They have a steak menu as well. As it is part of a hotel in the center of the city, they are well-prepared for dealing with foreign guests. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTAULESW

Paulaner D-3, Park Inn Nevsky Hotel, Nevsky pr. 89/ ul. Goncharnaya 4A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 13, www.paulaner-brauhaus.com. Sit down round the shiny brass brew-kettle and enjoy your fresh beer at the Paulaner restaurant and microbrewery. With an light filled atrium and big windows facing on to Nevsky the whole place, which spreads over many levels and around many corners, has a very relaxed light feel to it. The dark and light homebrewed beers taste lovely. Paulaner also has great Bavarian and Austrian food and the portions are massive! You can order a huge platter to share between you and an army of friends or perhaps you want to hack into an enormous schnitzel or curry wurst by yourself? Just don‘t look at the helpfully provided calorie count. Kids are well catered for with their own special menu. Also at Park Inn Pulkovskaya at pl. Pobedy 1 (metro Moskovs-kaya). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAUESW

Cafes and Coffee housesBubblemania C-2, Kirpichny per. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.bubblemania.ru. Bubblemania is the first and, so far, only place in the city that sells bubble tea, which is cold tea (in fruity and/or varieties) or coffee with chewy tapioca balls. Available flavors include different varieties of fruit, including exotic varieties such as lychee, chocolate, almond, taro and caramel, as well as different flavors of the tapioca balls and jelly „toppings“. So far, the only food available here is donuts. If you‘re a fan of bubble tea, what you will find here is not different from what you would in other countries. Due to the novelty, it‘s quite popular, so you might find yourself waiting in line or not having a place to sit. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €. PW

Cafe Singer С/D-2, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23. A long while back there used to be a terrible coffee shop here run by some of the most incompetent and unfriendly waiters in the city. Thankfully all traces of that establishment have completely disappeared. In its place you will find a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian dishes like borsch and pelemeni. The staff here will actually look you in the eye and bring you your menu/cappuccino/bill when you ask them for it and they can even be caught smiling sometimes too. Combine that with a great view and stunning art nouveau fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so full. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGS

Idealnaya Chashka D-2, D-3, Nevsky pr. 32/34, Vladi-mirskiy pr. 1, Kamennoostrovskiy pr. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 06, www.idealcup.ru. The Ideal Cup is St. Petersburg‘s most successful coffee-house chain; it has a couple of pleasant cafes on Nevsky prospekt alone. It serves good coffee in all forms imaginable including alcoholic and non-alcoholic coffee cocktails, at decent prices. The cakes, while very sweet - in true Russian tradition - are great, particularly the Black Forest. It can get rather busy here. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW

Miracle D-2, Moshkov per. 4 (corner of Dvortsovaya nab. 20), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 965 060 08 10. Associated with the nearby artistic workspace Taiga, Miracle is a unique ‘co-working‘ destination, great for those looking to sit and get down to some work (or just a little light reading) in a quiet and unobtrusive atmosphere. It costs 100Rbl an hour to hang out (the following hours cost less) and you can help yourself to as much of their complimentary teas as you want. The delightful interior, which is entirely handmade, is as quirky and bohemian as the owners and if you drop by in the evenings they will be happy to let you jam with them on their many musical instru-ments or get involved in creative events such as poetry read-ings. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €. PEGBW

Caucasian and Central AsianAragvi D-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 56 43. Argavi restaurant‘s light, minimal interior lets you wind down after a long day, with large windows offering enchanting views onto the Fontanky River and embankment. We recommend getting a selection of starters to share as the portions are generous. The lobio, a light bean salad, is fantastic, and the satsivi divine - chicken breast poached in a creamy walnut sauce. For something a bit heavier, the warm, doughy khachapuri oozes cheese and the pork shashlyk tickles the tastebuds. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00 €€. PASW

Baklazhan D-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.bak-lazhan.net. The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW

Khochu Kharcho C-2, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSado-vaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course.This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-2, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 51, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe‘s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. While much fine dining in the city is devoted to the French arts, Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioning proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many an appearance on the menu, but never one that is out of place. The Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, ac-companied by the delicate black beluga is a dish to die for, but that description pretty much covers everything on the menu, whether you‘re venturing into the seafood dishes, the game or touring your way around heavenly hors d‘oeuvres while sampling the little waters recom-mended by the city‘s only vodka sommelier. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALEW

Fish House C-2, Grivtsova per. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 448 22 77, www.fish-spb.ru. Fish, fish, more fish and seafood - this is one for the piscivores, although with a good beef stroganoff on the menu carnivores will be happy too. This very plain looking fish house specialises in American style fish grills - the portions are huge as well as the massive ceramics they arrive on. We enjoyed the trout with spinach, although it took a long time to grill it to perfection. They also do some nice Russian pickled fish with delicious black bread. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PTAULESW

Langust Bolshoy pr. 84 (Petrograd Side), MPetro-gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 56 00. It is immediately apparent upon entering that they take their seafood here very seriously indeed. After passing security on the first floor, you leave the lift to be greeting by a massive con-cierge desk, a table offering glossy catalouges describing their chef, ingredients and gastronomic philosophy and bubbling tanks of your soon to be appetizers. Once seated on either of their two floors and atop an overstuffed floral armchair, you might find you‘re completely alone to contemplate their menu which is a careful selection of live or fresh from the sea fish, lobster and shellfish, plus imported meats such as French duck and Brazilian beef. Vegetarians don‘t have to fret with their appetiz-ing sides, pastas and risottos also being beautifully and deliciously prepared. Be aware prices are per 100 grams of uncooked seafood. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAEBSW

Fruits de Mer



Palkin D-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEBW

Russian Empire C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, Stroganov pal-ace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 43, old.concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-ampir/. The three luxurious dining rooms each have their own individual atmosphere and all are decorated genuinely in the finest style. Diners eat from Gianni Versace porcelain plates and drink wine out of Bohemian crystal glasses whilst surrounded by 24-carat gold ornaments, in what once was part of Stro-ganoff Palace. The wine and cognac list is extensive and rather exclusive: an armagnac from 1812 can be ordered just by the spoonful! Q Open 17:00 until last guest. €€€€. PTALEW

InternationalClean Plates Society C-2, Ul. Gorokhovaya 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 934 97 64, www.cleanplates.ru. Obshchestvo Chistykh Tarelok, or “The Clean Plates Society,” is a trendy café/bar located not far from the Moika. It attracts a young, trendy clientele, and while the menu is not extensive, it‘s varied enough to satisfy a wide range of tastes and palettes. There are salads, soups, “fast food” - shawerma and a selection of gourmet hamburgers - as well as fancier main courses, such as steak and duck. There is even a vegetarian menu with lentils and couscous. They also bring free bread and crudités, a rarity in Russian restaurants. There is a children‘s menu, but it‘s hard to imagine a child truly being welcome here - the atmosphere is just too hipstery and the music selection probably wouldn‘t please parents. It is, however, a good option if you‘re dining alone, since you can eat at the bar. Prices are relatively reasonable for the quality and quantity of the food, but the menu is Russian-only. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTASW

Leica C-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 96 95. Named after a fashionable camera brand, Leica is a cafe/bar that is themed around St. Peters-burg hipster style, and, in keeping to the name of the place, it‘s not uncommon to see fashionably-dressed groups of youth taking pictures of their friends with their DSLR cameras. The food is a moderately-priced mix of decent Russian and Italian entrees, with pizza and pasta selections, and they have a brunch menu as well. The staff is English-friendly, and if you tend to get bored, you can even play games of Tic-Tac-Toe and Battleship on the menus provided. Be warned, however, that on Friday and Saturday nights, you may find that the main room of the restaurant has been turned into a disco, and if you want a quiet dinner, then it may be better to go elsewhere. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €. PTAW

Rubinstain D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 9/3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 400 00 22, www.rubinstain.ru. If you are walking past and think this place looks a bit bizarre and empty, that‘s because what you see up front is not the restaurant proper - the real action is hidden way in the back. Full length windows give an eye-opening view on to a residential court-yard, while big screen football helps distract from some of the less appetizing things that may be found in such yards. On the food side it‘s Russian and European. Avoid the boring Rubinstain salad (isn‘t it usually called Caesar?) and go for the lamb chops, blini or stroganoff instead, they are all quite satisfying and won‘t break the bank. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEBW

Truffle D-1, Bolshoy pr. 82 (Petrograd Side), MPetro-gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 405 90 77. A downstairs bakery offering all manners of cakes, sweets and breads leads to a lofty second story restaurant with a view over bustling Bolshoi prospect. The muted florals and cosy French sitting room style of the place is well executed and thankfully so are the dishes. On offer are Russian and I talian classics, so if your party is spli t between those seeking a nice chicken Kiev and a crispy Neopolitan pizza, this is your spot. I t goes without saying, ei ther save room for dessert especially the rich chocolate truffles (hence the name) or i f savoury is more your thing, grab a bread basket to soak up all the sauce you can. Q Restaurant 12:00 - 24:00; сonfectionary 09:00 - 21:00 €€. PASW

Fine diningDickens Restaurant С-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108 (2 floor), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. The popular Dickens pub has a sophisticated restaurant upstairs. An open fire place greets you, along with giant imperial oil paintings, tall windows and candle lit tables - it looks like a posh pub inside a stately home. There‘s a warm atmosphere and diverse menu, all food is of a high standard and luckily they serve large portions. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PASW

miX in St. Petersburg C-2, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, w w w.wstpetersburg.com. The f irst restaurant in Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fi ts perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia‘s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. After examin-ing the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one of their highly creative cocktails. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 18:00, dinner 19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGW

Mansarda C-2, Ul. Pochtamtskaya 3, MAdmiralteis-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom‘s headquarters and head for the li ft in the left side of the blindingly sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome of St. Isaacs Cathedral. The interior is understated and the glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as the restaurant in which it‘s served and shouldn‘t disappoint. Classic European tastes dominate with Asian influences also given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes are particularly recommended. In warm weather the rooftop terrace is an excellent venue for sunset cocktails or Sunday brunch. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALVSW

Moskva D-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. The rooftop location on the 6th floor of the upscale Nevsky Centre, draws in a dressier crowd of wealthier diners looking to soak up the fancy view. The decor is done out in various shades of cream and the furniture is the muted and comfy yet expensive looking stuff that is typical of the Ginza brand‘s casual-chic style. Potted plants brighten the place up, as does fresh fruit at the open central cooking stations and while the menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe with sushi, pizza, Russian classics and continental mains - the food is still well-made. The Moskva roof is also a great place for evening drinks, and sipping cocktails on the huge sun-drenched terrace overlook-ing the hustle and bustle of Vosstaniya square, we have to admit is pretty darn enjoyable. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW

To read about even more restaurants and cafes in St. Peterburg check out our web-site st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Koreiko Grill Bar Ul. Kolokolnaya 18, MVladimir-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 957 95 77, www.koreiko.com. Despite its subterranean location this superior grill res-taurant manages to be light and airy, cosy and dim all at the same time. In the case of the former it‘s probably due to the cheerfully chirping parakeets on the window sills and colourful chalked wine menu above the small central bar. As for the cosy, it‘s all in the fireplace and rustic wood accents. Of the menu itself, everything off the grill comes seared to aesthetic and mouth-watering perfection, while other offerings such as pasta, soups and sandwiches are in filling proportions made with farm-fresh elements. Russian classics here also get a hearty recommendation. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PABW

Korova Bar D-2/3, Ul. Karavannaya 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 73 48, www.decadencegroup.ru. With cattle skins covering the walls, the Korova (cow) Bar is an elegant and comfortable restaurant where the chefs know their meat - American marbled beef - and how to prepare it. In their words „Korova Bar does NOT recommend well-done“ and quite right, too. Vegetarians don‘t have to worry: Korova has many salads, some fish dishes and great desserts or they can load up on scrump-tious sides, like cheesy baked potatoes and creamed spinach. They also offer delivery or uncooked cuts, the latter at a discount, of course. Also at Moskovsky pr. 97 (metro Moskovskie vorota). Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALSW

Hot off the Grill

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

34 RestauRants

Soup Wine C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGS

ItalianCafe Plaza by illy Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport, Startovaya ul. 6, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. A real Italian café located in the Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Hotel, just some 300m away from the international airport Pulkovo-2. The interior blends the Italian coffee brand Illy‘s trademark colours red, black and white and the menu combines the most popular elements of Italian, European and Russian cuisine, all served fresh in generous portions. The desserts are homemade and of course the real Italian coffee is a must. For alcoholic beverages in the evening (the bar opens at 20:00) there‘s the Russian Standard Signature Bar nearby where you can grab a cocktail (or two) or of course a good strong Russian Standard vodka to steady yourself before a long flight. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. €€. PTAULGSW

Caffe Italia E-3, Pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, www.caffe-italia.ru. The cheerful and charming décor, with checked tablecloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the bookshelves, already puts this café above the standard casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is positively succulent. If you can restrain yourself, the gorgeously pre-sented desserts are worth the effort and the wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry Italian vintages that won‘t break the bank. The menu is only available in Italian and Russian, but the English-speaking staff will be genuinely pleased to help should you ask. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PNSW

Capuletti D-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 74, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 22 82, www.capuletti.info. This sprawling Italian restaurant has a cute cafe/deli style area in the front overlooking the street and wide balconies, tables, vines and soaring ceilings in the back. Decorated in a homely country style the many areas suit both intimate meals and family dinners. The pizzas are a great choice coming straight from a stone wood-fired oven and the grilled dishes are also definitely worth opting for. They also now serve a breakfast menu from 09:00 - 15:00 with all the great favourites like bri-oche, panini, mueslis, inventive omelettes and good coffees. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVESW

Fasta Pasta D-3, Nevsky pr. 122, MPl. Vosstaniya. Fasta Pasta does what it says on the tin - it‘s a quick service restaurant where you can get basic pasta dishes, as well as paninis, soups and salads. The pasta, which comes in your choice of shape and with your choice of sauce (pesto, bolognese, etc.) and toppings, is even served in a takeout box. They also serve breakfast until noon. The quality is on par with what you‘d expect from a fast food place, but it‘s clean, and, of course, quick, so if you‘re in a rush and want something besides McDonalds or Teremok, you could do a lot worse. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. €.

Soholounge D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiral-teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 647 80 80, www.insoholounge.com. The owners of Soholounge (who also run the two bar/restaurants next door) were inspired by the cutting-edge fashions and neighbourhood feel of the Soho areas of London and New York and have successfully started creating their own mini-soho in this historic corner of St. Petersburg, with the Soholounge being the most fashionable of their hit parade of restaurants. The huge pictures of Johnny Depp and co. on the walls, original American mini-burgers, cosmopolitan ‚new American‘ menu, which includes great steaks, salads and vegetarian options and the outstanding cocktail-menu are pure Manhattan. Q Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 00:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. €€. PALESW

Kroshka Kartoshka D-3, Nevsky pr. 122 A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 901 305 21 50, www.kartosh-ka.com. This very no-frills joint is an ode to the humble potato (kartoshka). You can get your kartoshka in the kroshka style (i.e., baked) with a choice of fillings such as feta cheese, bacon and sour cream or aubergine stew. They also do paninis, salads and very cheap beer to wash it all down. Also at ul. Malaya Sadovaya 3 (metro Gostiny Dvor). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. TGS

Stolle Cafe D-2, Konushenny per. 1/6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 18 62, www.stolle.ru. Stolle‘s big attraction is their pies, which are quite possibly the best in St. Petersburg. Both sweet pies filled with fruit or savoury pies with mushrooms, fish and meat all get washed down nicely with a coffee (or two or three). The relaxing atmosphere is soothing and addictive. Stolle claims to have recreated to the feel and flavour of an early 20th century St. Petersburg cafe, but really it is something more reminiscent of a modern Viennese Cafe, especially on Vasilevsky Island. Also at ul. Dekabristov 19, ul. Dekabristov 33, ul. Vosstaniya 32 and VO, 1-linya 50. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €. PTLVNS

Teremok D-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 23 41, www.teremok.ru. Head upstairs and worship at the throne of Teremok - the pancake or bliny kings. Although it is strictly fast food, the bliny are as-sembled as you order them and there is a wide variety including the Ilya Muromets, a popular concoction of boiled pork, mushrooms and cheese. They also do dif-ferent porridge dishes, an awesome fish soup (ukha) and have beer on tap. There are also 49 takeaway Teremok stands dotted around the city. Restaurant also at Nevsky pr. 93, check the other 35 locations via their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PTNGS

Good and Cheap



La Famiglia D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 20/16, MPl. Vosstani-ya, tel. (+7) 812 272 22 77, www.famcafe.ru. Despite the all grey interior - walls, couches, chairs and shelves - there isn‘t anything grim or institutional about this casual yet elegant cafe which is definitely conducive to lingering. Fresh salads, simple soups and pleasing meat dishes compliment the pasta selections that arrive perfectly al dente. Don‘t miss their signature pasta, which is an amazing combination of subtle bleu cheese sauce, with melon, pomegranate seeds and a spring of fresh, flavourful basil. For those seeking light fare, the pastas are conveniently available in half portions. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PAEBSW

Little Italy D-2, Italianskaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 23 50, www.littleitalytrattoria.ru. Small, simple, relaxed and friendly, Little Italy really feels like an authentic little trattoria that you would be delighted to have stumbled upon in a Tuscan side-street never mind in the centre of St. Petersburg. Located in what used to be an ice-cream parlour they‘ve kept the old venue‘s Venetian theme and added a pizza oven and small open kitchen. They do the basics very well and the long experience of the highly qualified Italian chef is visible in everything which is served. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €, business lunch 290Rbl. PTASW

Macaroni D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 23, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 28 49, www.probka.org. At Macaroni, they are unafraid to serve the pasta al dente and they do have quite delicious food. Their tagliatelle with prawns and ham sauce is highly recommended, as is the salmon steak on its bed of spinach. The interior is a mix of casual chic with a glasshouse frontage onto the street. The pleasant staff only add to the happy atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEBSW

Marcelli‘s D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 15, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 80 10, www.marcellis.ru. Simply styled to reflect the stereotypes of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The simple menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions, and the dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil. Dishes can also be ordered in smaller portions for kids or perhaps for those on a diet. Another Marcelli‘s is located at Leninsky pr. 120 (metro Leninsky pr.), where they also sell pizza. In addition they have a nice deli counter. A new Marcelli`s has just been opened at pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTABSW

Mexican and Latin AmericanConchita Bonita C-2, Ul. Gorokhovaya 39, MSado-vaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 60 50. The Cuban owners and Latino staff do their best to entertain guests and create a lively atmosphere at this little South American restaurant near Sennaya ploshchad. While the hot dishes can‘t really be described as spicy and the guacamole is a bit flat, the atmosphere is good, especially when there‘s a live band on and there‘s a wide selection of cigars. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW

Tequila Boom B-2/3, Voznesensky pr. 57, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 15 34, www.tequilaboom.ru. A raucous and fun place for a night of Mexicana. Tequila Boom has tequila (obviously) and a menu filled with big Mexican classics like burritos and fajitas doused in sour cream and salsa. Portions are authentically large, although many people prefer to come to this cantina just to drink and eat snacks. The happy hour deals offer great value, especially if you‘re into tequila based cocktails - in fact the drinks menu runs to more pages than the food, which on a baking hot day, is no bad thing. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALVESW

SpanishDon Pepe D-3, Ul. Malaya Sadovaya 1/25, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 39 65, www.donpepe.ru. Scrump-tious Spanish tapas just steps from Nevsky prospekt. This is authentic fare cooked with flair by chef Don Pepe. A mix of different dishes, all supremely affordable and delicious, supplemented by Sangria makes this place perfect for a quick bite (try their weekday buffet lunch deal if you happen to be in the area - it‘s a steal) or a more substantial meal in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAEBSW

Macarena Moskovsky pr. 206, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 906 39 00, www.macarenabar.ru. A lesson in how make a sophisticated yet comfortable and acces-sible Spanish/Italian restaurant. Through the Chilli-tunnel entrance the interior continues to warm with soft woods and dim lights. Red meats and fish dominate this hearty menu. We recommend the delicious seafood platter and the spicy Spanish wines to wash it down. There is also a diverse business lunch everyday and live Latino themed music every Saturday night. Q Open 08:00 - 03:00, Mon 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEBSW

VegetarianRada & K C-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 36, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 12 26. A great addition to St. Petersburg‘s small vegetarian dining scene. Rada & K mixes the stereotypi-cal happy hippy features such as green walls and dreadlocked staff with a canteen style set up. Popular at all hours the queues can be long (meaning your food gets cold), but it‘s still worth waiting if you‘ve been starving yourself on bliny and cheese sandwiches all week. Vegan and vegetarian versions of Russian classics are on offer, but it‘s the excellent Indian dishes which are the biggest draw. The baked goods are also worth opting for and be sure to grab one of the homemade lassi drinks to accompany. There‘s also a good specialist food shop next door. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTGW

Taleon Restaurant C-2, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Sundays at the Taleon Imperial Hotel have become something of a tradition in the city. Enjoy hot smoked sterlet woth pink horseradish, cold smoked rainbow trout Asian style, or lobster with pink sauce, fresh oysters and other exquisite dishes prepared by Taleon`s Chef Alexander Dregolsky. The menu includes assortment of soft drinks, sparkling wine Prosecco, house red and white wines. Q Sun 12:00 - 16:00. 3,800Rbl. PTAULW

L‘Europe Restaurant D-2, Grand Hotel Europe, ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. The Grand offers an amazing Jazz brunch on Sundays. Tables are laden with crawfish, salmon, shrimp, rows and rows of decadent petit fours, roast beef, hot and cold soups, fruit arranged in towering topiaries. You will also find omelette stations, ice-cream stations, crepe stations and so on. Feast on the famous red and black caviar of Russia as well as a savour selection of Russian, Mediterranean and oriental specialties in one of St. Petersburg‘s most elegant Art Nouveau settings. Settle back and let the strains of the jazz band wash over you. Q Sun 13:00 - 16:00. 4,900Rbl, children under 7 years for free, 7 - 12 years 1,600Rbl, 13 - 18 year 2,450Rbl. PTAULEW

If you like smoking cigarettes, you’ll love Russia. Smoking here is prevalent. Glancing at the other diners around you in a restaurant you generally will see more smokers than non-smokers. According to a recent World Health Organization report more than 44 million Russians smoke (almost 40% of the adult population), making Russia amongst the heaviest smoking countries in the world. Cigarettes are incredibly cheap to buy, averaging at around 50Rbl for a pack of 20, and are available every-where. Few places advertise themselves as exclusively non-smoking and you can still light up in many public buildings. Big smoking bans are still a far off dream and you will still find that most bars and restaurants are filled with people puffing away. If you aren’t a smoker and certainly don’t want to become a passive one, request a place in a ne kuryashy mesto (non-smoking area). Most restaurants now have them (and in some you will even find you are actually seated far away from smokers) and even some bars have them now too. Venues which are exclusively non-smoking are marked in our listings with a non-smoking symbol.

Sunday Brunch

Smoker’s paradise

One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).

Food from Former Republics

Ya vegetarianets = I am a vegetarianBez myasa = without meat


39Nightlife38 NightlifeCafe-Bar Produkty D-2/3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) (812) 312 57 54. Produkty‘s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. Just to make you feel extra special, you have to ring the door bell to get in. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thur 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. AEW

Dacha C-2, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr. This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don‘t dress too fancy if you‘re coming here for the night, you‘re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PEW

Fidel D-3, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 906 809-61-03, www.barfidel.ru. Fidel - can get packed so if you want a seat you need to work faster than a babushka on the metro. Either that or get there early. But who comes to a bar to sit down? The music is too loud to have conversations anyway. They do have a dancefloor where you can come away with a head injury if you are not careful. If you‘re in any way squeamish avoid the toilets - let‘s just say they‘re not the cleanest we‘ve ever seen... QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Face control. PE

Kitaisky Lyotchik Dzao Da D-2, Ul. Pestelya 7A, MCher-nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 74 87, www.jao-da.org. Kitaisky Lotchik or Chinese Pilot, is a newly opened brother establishment of the long-loved Moscow Club of the same name. The emphasis here is towards live music and cheap but filling food. Unfortunately the place is not massively well pro-moted so there is still no regular crowd and the place feels very empty. On the plus side that of course means you‘ll always be able to get a seat and the concerts feel more, ahem, intimate. Concerts start at 20:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PEBW

Mishka Bar D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 751 54 93, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They‘re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who‘s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. PSW

Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafe-bar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back cafe vibe, while the indie music and late open hours keep it in the bar bracket too. Nothing rowdy ever kicks off here, this is more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies and games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

St. Petersburg‘s nightlife scene is going from strength to strength and is now generally considered to be the most varied and friendly in the country. Classic old pubs, new gastro-bars and quirky artistic bars can be found on every other corner.

Artsy / undergroundAtelier Bar C-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 78 05, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey, rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the hectic Dumskaya ‚bar street‘, has a bit of squat feel to it but is moving with the times and has updated its interiors to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling concrete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have become less sess-pit style than previously. Atelier attracts a predomi-nately grungy student set and can feel a bit too ‚young‘ for some. The music is as unpredictable as the face control but given the proximity of so many other bars you can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later to see how things are swinging. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Fri, Sat 100Rbl. EW

Bar Kokoshka C/D-3, Ul. Razyezzhaya 26/28, MLi-govsky pr., www.kokoshkabar.ru. Brightly painted (or might we say graffitied) in psychedelic colours by the owners themselves, there‘s something about the homemade décor that gives the feeling of a work constantly in progress. In ad-dition to the usual beer and vodka, Kokoshka offers patrons its own homemade spirits, cooked up using berries, honey and caramel. Early on it‘s a decent place to hang out with a pre-club drink, while later DJs spin the best in funk, hip-hop and grungy-indie music (depending on the night) to fill the small area in front of the bar with dancing (or shoe-gazing) hipsters and the city‘s alternative set. Q Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. EW

Borodabar C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 911 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This pocket-sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg‘s burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn‘t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are often very good. Q Open 18:00 until last guest. PW


40 Nightlife 41Nightlife

Warszawa bar С-2, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. Despite its Polish name this small cozy bar is if anything more related to Prague and even this conclusion is solely based on the nationality of the offered beers. The topographic name doesn‘t refer to anything Warsawian in particular but rather alludes to the relaxed ambiance of East European brasseries. During the day the place functions as a café with a small selection of snacks and by nights turns into a laid-back bar. The interior is minimalistic but so are the prices: treat yourself to some throat-burning Ukrainian pepper vodka, bittersweet Czech liquor or Polish traditional Zubrowka for a handful of Roubles. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PW

Bars and pubsAbeerdeen D-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they‘ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gim-micky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous con-sidering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious pub grub and you may find you‘ve spent everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAESW

BARSLONA D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, wwww.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - my what a difference a smile can make! As you would expect from a football mad country, match days have a really great atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice and is understandably popular on hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains are filling and flavoursome. Get down early to grab a stool on their popular street terrace. The Barslona brand now has 2 more loca-tions at ul. Chernyshevskogo 9 (metro Chernyshevskaya) and ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1 in the former premises of The Other Side Bar (metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PABSW

Bedlam Bar D-3, Ligovsky pr. 81, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 63 44, bedlambar.blogspot.com. A British-styled rock pub. At Bedlam you can munch on great pub style food such as fish and chips, sausages or roast chicken, whilst listening to the best hits of yester year and great new underground names. Bedlam for once has thankfully shunned the shamrocks and union jacks and has opted instead for black paint and faded posters of Bowie, Jagger, Morrison and co. Odd stuffed cats, antique rock‘n‘roll magazines and the occasional gas mask are displayed in cages which surround the bar, adding yet more rock credentials to Bedlam‘s look. Q Open Thu - Sat 20:00 - 02:00. PW

Chumadan C-2, VO, 6-ya liniya 21, MVasileostrovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 59 29, www.chumadan-cafe.spb.ru. There‘s a lot of British pubs in this city and yet it‘s this distinctly Russian basement bar that gets the atmosphere right without even trying. A low ceiling, dingy stone walls that have seen some smokers in their days and closely packed tables all lend to that feeling of finding your local. Even the tartan-skirted waitresses seem natural. However, looking around at the patrons, often seated around carafes of vodka, boisterously toasting and chomping on fried snacks in between their 50 grams dispel any notions that you‘re anywhere other than the Motherland. Popular with students, families and business professionals alike, you never know who you‘ll end up chatting with or how long you‘ll end up staying. No bad thing, in our opinion. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. AW

Dickens C-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 78 88. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don‘t forget to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 08:00 - 01:00. PALSW

James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in a vintage basement features one of the longest bars in town. The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden butcher‘s block. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. PAEW

Mollie‘s Irish Pub D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladi-mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly.su. St. Petersburg‘s first Irish pub, located just off Nevsky, offers just what you would expect from a bar like this. Mollie‘s serves up a wide range of beers, good food and music (although it might be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats and the occasional tourist. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sut 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PABSW

Mollie‘s Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on Rubinsteina ulitsa. What they are missing in history they make up for in space however. Mollie‘s Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning there‘s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAEBSW

Molly Island B-1, Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su. Located on Vasilyevsky Island, this little Irish Pub is the place to go after a day in the Lenexpo Exhibition Centre or if you are staying in the nearby Hotel Pribaltiskaya. The cosy interior, friendly staff and a vibrant mix of locals and foreigners as well as a wide selection of beer, whiskey and food, make it the perfect place to meet up with friends or watch a game of football, if you don´t feel like traveling all the way to the centre. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PABSW

Molly Shelter D-2, Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, www.molly.su. Shelter is the right word for this snug little basement Irish Pub - its low vaulted brick ceilings and inviting booths tucked away in various little nooks and crannies act as a cocoon to the outside world and call out at you to settle in, relax and take shelter. The base-ment‘s careful restoration gives the pub a very authentic look and the various bits of antique pub clutter look well at home amongst chess playing punters and sports fans. They have good stouts and ales on draught as well as the atypical Guin-ness and the pub food menu is long and appetising. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAEBSW

Music Bar 11 C-2, Malaya Morskaya 11, MAdmi-ralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 11 11, www.musicbar.ru. Showing off on stage and performing karaoke in front of friends and strangers is hugely popular in Russia and here at Music Bar 11 they claim to have the city’s best karaoke equipment with a high-tech professional sound system and snazzy light effects. If you prefer to see professionals per-forming then you are in luck as everyday at 23:00 there’s a musical show on the bar’s stage often featuring well-known Russian bands, which is followed up by DJs doing their thing. The bar card is filled with classic cocktails as well as modern favourites and there’s also a kitchen serving fancy European and Japanese cuisine. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW

Oliver D-3, Ul. Belinskogo 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 33 61. Oliver is an English-style pub near the Fontanka that is an attempt at an authentic neighbor-hood pub, with darts, flocked wallpaper, and a portrait of Queen Victoria watching over the place. It seems to be popular enough with the locals. It is part of a mini-chain of similar pubs in the center of the city, with the others being Dickens and Pickwick Pub. The food consists of typical British and American-style fare, such as BBQ chicken wings, club sandwiches, and fish ‘n‘ chips, as well as a few Russian dishes. Service is decent and the menu is bilingual, so it‘s not a bad choice if you‘re seeking a pint and some familiar dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PALESW

Pickwick Pub E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter with the punters, there‘s premiership football on the tv, real ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW

Shamrock B-2, Ul. Dekabristov 27 (Teatralnaya pl.), MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 25, www.sham-rock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam ses-sion. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. We visited this pub for the first time in 1995 and still do - doesn‘t that say enough? QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAESW

Telegraph D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man‘s pub where you can find dozens of single men who‘ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW

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Griboedov C-3, Ul. Voronezhskaya 2a, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 43 55, www.griboedovclub.ru. This literally ‘underground‘ club is located in a bomb shelter and is definitely worth a look. The vodka is cheap, the crowd cool and the atmosphere intimate but laid-back. Griboedov has a good habit of booking alternative bands and a diverse range of DJs like during Happy on Mondays new electronic music nights. The cafe Griboedov Hill is upstairs and has regular parties on Saturdays (Sketch Show - hip-hop, break beat roots and reggae) and Mondays (jazz concerts and jazz-hop/deep funk DJS). Come hungry and early, as the tables fill up quickly at the weekend and the food is excellent, especially for the price. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. PAILEBXSW

Hallelujah Bar D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 7/8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 59 26. Very similar to a lot of other bars around town, this little place goes wild at the weekends with youngsters getting hot and sweaty to the sounds of the 1980s, 1990s, current Russian rock bands and occasionally the Ghostbusters theme tune to amuse the students. It can get hot as hell in here, but on the upside you may dance wherever you want, be it the street or the table. There‘s also a fussball table if you are not feeling quite yet in the mood to join the party. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PLESW

Lenconcert XXXX D-2, Kamenoostrovsky pr. 11a, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 644 44 46, www.lenconcertxxxx.ru. There‘s no disguising it, the people who go to Lenconcert are really ridiculously good-looking and the scrutiny on the door is brutal and efficient in sifting out the most attractive guests from the wannabes. Once inside the action usually starts at the wide bar which has steps leading up to it to allow for bar top dancing and when there‘s no concerts the DJs crank things up to full on sexy pop (think Britney, Rihanna, Beyonce and co.) so the girls can have fun. Concerts range from house music to Russian stand-up comedy and retro nostalgic pop, so it is definitely worth checking the schedule beforehand. When not in party mode, the venue also serves as a classy Russian-European restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 15:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PAEW

Mod club D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 7 (in the yard), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 712 07 34, www.modclub.info. They‘ve made great use of the space here, with an intimate DJ bar for the stool-warming set adjacent to a large bi-level stage area where you can see some up-and-coming rock groups. For those who‘ve been in town awhile, you never know who you‘ll bump into here on the packed weekends. Only the queue for coat check on your way in could be cause for complaint. Otherwise, it‘s a great place to drink, dance, be merry and find a friend. Just be aware as the hour progresses, often quicker than you think, the crowd tends to get more than a little drunk and often more than a little rowdy, too. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Face control. PEB

Terminal Bar D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 13a, MVladimir-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23, www.terminalbar.spb.ru. The friendly owners here, who spent years in New York, insist that this long, thin and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of those friendly Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the street. Either way, what they are offering here is all very good. A simple but clean bar, chatty staff and a good mix of happy regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 until last guest. PW

The Office Pub C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It‘s one of those offices where you don‘t mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW

William Bass Pub D-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass.ru. Another local homage to Russia‘s love affair with British culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the roy-als, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there‘s also even a bright red room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe‘ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

Bar (812) D-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unas-suming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW

Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremly friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 250 exotic yet reason-ably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Tsvetochki D-3, Rubinsteina ul. 36, MDostoevs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intel-ligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PABW

Zing Bar C-3, Lomonosova ul. 14, MDostoevskaya. Cocktails, Russia‘s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar soundtrack, it‘s possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can‘t actually see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move it‘s all non-smoking and there‘s little in the way of face control. The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old‘ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW

Cocktail Bars

XXXX Bar E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 34, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 920 40 65/(+7) 812 244 99 99, xxxxbar.ru. XXXX bar is legendary in the St. Petersburg bar scene, and there always seems to be new branches popping up all over the place. The interior looks like a bit of a mess full of flags, banners and random nick nacks scattered around the place and tables that are alarmingly close to each other. Although calm during the week, come the weekend it goes bezerk with impromptu dancing on the bar, strip competitions and the alcohol flowing like a river. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00. Sat, Sun 15:00 - 05:00. Face control, dress code. PAEBSW

ClubsDom Byta С/D-3, Ul. Razyezzhaya 12, MVladimir-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99. The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when this bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything from plastic table-cloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends. In keeping with the attention to detail, the food, if a bit pricey, is also meticulously prepared and presented. For all the lounge lizards out there - it‘s officially martini time. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. Fri, Sat face control. PAESW

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Nebar D-3, Liteiny pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 05 05, www.nebar.ru. A prime central location, just up a block from Nevsky, this compact, two-storey bar oozes with upper income gents and the ladies who love them. Once past face control at the bar, there‘s another vip option upstairs that‘s ideal for surveying the crowd/newcomers over your hookah and cocktails. Barmen are professional mixers who like to show off their dance moves and bottle tossing abilities, though they do tone it down and speed it up when the place gets busy. This is definitely designer dress territory so if you don‘t look the part, speak English - it might get you through. Q Open Fri - Sat: 22:00 - 06:00 Free admission if you pass face control. PA

Purga D-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year‘s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. Q Purga I open daily 16:00 - 06:00. Purga II 20:00 - 04:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission better to check on site. PAEW

Radiobaby C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

Rossi‘s C/D-3, Zodchego Rossi ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 40 16, [email protected], www.rossis.ru. Perhaps the best place to do karaoke in town. Great selection of songs, including a number of unusual ones. Karaoke bar is part of the mega club Rossi‘s, so you will have to pay the entrance for the whole club. Once inside go straight to the back. The patrons pay attention and give standing ovations after worthy attempts. Those who shine and sing repeat-edly may get free songs and beers tossed in their direction. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PAES

Show Hall Atmosfera E-1, Lesnoy pr. 48, MLe-snaya, tel. (+7) 812 907 62 62, www.showhall-atmosfera.ru. The theatrical and gloriously kitsch Show Hall Atmosfera encompasses all kinds of entertainment under one roof. Here you‘ll find a festive atmosphere with larger-than-life shows featuring not only well-known singers, but also dancing fountains, colourful laser shows and sometimes even acrobats. The interior is beyond imagination with huge pillars inspired by Greek Gods surrounding the immense amphitheatre style set-up. Not just a place for dancing and enjoying live entertainment, Atmosfera also boats an extensive menu of European and Asian cuisine. Pay special attention to the pool filled with live fish - there‘s the option to choose one to become a part of your meal cooked anyway you like. Make sure to call ahead as the hall is sometimes booked out for private parties. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Entrance to the show 500Rbl. PTALVESW

Show Hall Atmosfera

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Jazz and BluesJazz Philharmony C-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimir-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. While it can‘t really be called a cafe, ‚the Church of Jazz,‘ as this venue is known, is a bit of legend in St. Petersburg. The large hall, reminiscent of a 1940s jazz club, has a stage, balconies and comfortable tables. The Jazz Philharmony has all manner of acts. The performances are usually of a high-standard, and it‘s not unusual to see the club‘s eccentric director stand up and jam on his violin with the musicians of the day. The Museum of Petersburg Jazz is on the second floor. Q EK

JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MCherny-shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club.spb.ru. It‘s hard to believe that this intimate, little club can hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of tables and standing space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a table. It‘s popular with the city‘s artsy scene and with people who know their jazz. It has original performances by top-notch musicians playing just about anything from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club D-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMaya-kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it feels as though Jimmy Hendrix is still alive - if he is, he‘s probably a frequent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent Russian and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: it‘s all made fresh. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAE

Karaoke barsFever D-2, VO, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostro-vskaya, tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88. With the black glitter wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. The sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly staggering in it‘s length and breadth. Friendly, professional staff is a bonus and the couches offered an uber plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if less than talented, take to the mike. Q Open 18:00 - 06:00, Fri - Sun 17:00-06:00. Closed Mon. PALEW

Metro С-4, Ligovsky pr. 174, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 766 02 04, www.metroclub.ru. This ultra clean multilevel dance complex (where chewing gum is banned!) is extremely popular with teenagers. Choose from techno, Eurodance and Russian pop. If you tire of dancing, there‘s also karaoke, a dance show and soft porn in the chill-out room. Metro has strict face-control, but the sturdy male and female bouncers are polite as they frisk you. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. PLB

Gay and lesbianBlue Oyster (Golubaya Ustritsa) C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 332 51 61, www.boyster.ru. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Entrance strictly only for those age 18+. PAE

Central Station C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1/28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 36 00, www.centralstation.ru. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Entrance strictly only for those age 18+. PAEK

Striptease is big business in Russia. Russians have made from poledancing not only an erotic but also an acrobatic act. If you want to admire attractive ladies and enjoy professionally choreographed dances there’s more than enough good places to visit in St. Petersburg. Extras like a lap dance, dance in a private room or a special request such as a lesbi-dance, shower shows, retro themed strip or whatever else floats your boat are available and they will try their best to accomodate your wildest desires.Maximus C-2, Kirpichny per. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 05 88, www.maximus-club.ru. QOpen 19:00 - 18:00.Seven Rooms D/C-2, Ul. Sadovaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 84, www.sevenrooms.ru. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.

Gentlemen‘s Clubs

St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian bands. For the better known names you should head to the bigger concert halls such as Kosmonavt, Club Jagger or Zal Ozhidaniya.If you prefer to step into the underground and explore the local scene a bit closer there are a number of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique - and the GEZ experimental sound centre in the neighbouring Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie and alternative bands, while the intimate Tsokol is also a favourite for underground rock and punk bands. New places on the scene include the friendly ‘Soundbar’ Banka which hosts concerts, art parties and DJ nights Thursday through Sunday. Banka D-2 Ul. Tchaikovskogo 12 MChernyshevs-kaya, bankaclub.com Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekh-nologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.kosmonavt.su.Club Fish Fabrique Nouvelle E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57.Club Jagger Pl. Konstitutsii 2, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 923 12 92, jaggerclub.ru.Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.Tsokol D/E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 2/3, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 274 94 67, www.zoc-colo.ru

Live Music Clubs


47sightseeing46 sightseeing

MuseumsKunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthro-pology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu-seum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Peters-burg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are reall y very quirky and good. The Mint dis-plays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing wa-ters… at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 350Rbl (ticket valid for all museums ). Excursion 250Rbl. Audioguide 200-250Rbl.

Russian Etnographic Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www.ethno-museum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Some information about exhibits is available in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.).

Yusupov Palace C-2, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MAdmiral-teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 332 19 91, www.yusupov-palace.ru. This palace was purchased by the wealthy Yusupov family in 1830 to house their art collection and retains an aristocratic atmosphere. It also was the scene of the grisly murder of the sleazy Siberian peasant Rasputin, who was exercising too much influence over the royal family for Felix Yusupov‘s liking. On the Rasputin tour you can see where Felix and his entourage tried to poison Rasputin in the cellar in 1916, before they beat him and chucked him into the Moika, where he finally died. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone 314 88 93. Admission 500Rbl. Audioguide free, 1,000Rbl deposit.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.

When entering an Orthodox church, always remember to dress conservatively - that means absolutely no shorts, short skirts, low cut tops, or sleeveless shirts. As you enter men should remove any headwear, whereas women should cover their heads. Usually at the entrance there will be a box of headscarves that you can borrow if you don’t have your own. In Orthodox churches there are almost no chairs as when you meet with God you should be humble and standing. The very old and infirm may be allowed to sit for some time, but someone who is young or fit should never try to take a seat. If there is no service most believers will head for the icons, leaving a candle in front of it (represen-tative of their prayer) and kissing the hands or face of the icon. During an Orthodox service, the priest (who should be addressed as batushka) will usually lead the congregation through a long session of prayer - which will sound like a long and mournful song. He will then circle the church spreading incense (representative of the sweetness of prayer), before returning back behind the iconostasis, which always remains closed except for on Easter.

Russian Orthodox Religion

State Hermitage Museum C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiral-teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitage-museum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks. The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European move-ments. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Free admission international and Russian children and stu-dents. Audioguide foreigners 350Rbl, Russians 250Rbl. First Thu of the month FREE admission for ALL visitors. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

HermitageSt. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest ar-chitects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

Churches (Orthodox)Aleksander Nevsky Monastery E-4, Nab. reky Mo-nastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Rus-sia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dos-toevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trini ty cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30.

St. Isaac‘s Cathedral C-2, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac‘s is one of the world‘s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome‘s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Kazan Cathedral C-2, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28.

Take note that most museum ticket office close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask

you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos.


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Modern artErarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-1, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the big-gest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. Currently they have around 2000 works so make sure you give yourself some time. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl. PAUKW

Loft Project Etagi D-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 50 05, www.loftprojectetagi.ru. This five-floored building used to be a bakery factory in the past, but now instead of breads it‘s art pieces that come in and out the door. With two main galleries, exhibition rooms, a bookstore, clothes shops and cafe, Etagi works more as an art center than a gallery. A New York atmosphere is provided by the high ceilings, the wooden floors and uncovered pipes along the concrete walls, but St Petersburg artists occupy the main branch of the exhibitions, that usually are for free. Film festivals, kids workshops and even pet adoption fairs are held in Etagi, which is the pioneer gallery with a loft style in the city. Q Open daily 12:00 - 22:00. Admission 0-200Rbl. TNBK

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell it in the air! They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. They also have a little strawberry farm where Israeli bumblebees are working very hard on pollinating strawberry. Soon a library, bookstore and cafe will be opened. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl. TNBKW

Lyrical CityAnna Akhmatova Museum D-3, Liteiny pr. 53, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, www.akhmatova.spb.ru. In this former palace you can visit the flat where Russia‘s greatest poetess lived for almost 30 years. Ten rooms chronologically represent ten eras. Photographs and artefacts from Akhmatova‘s hard and fascinating life are on display; books of her poetry that never left the printing house and letters from her imprisoned lover. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions of other artists. Audio-guides in English, German and French; free texts in English in the rooms. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60-200Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum D-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsky‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apartment and belongings). The audio-guide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

Pushkin Apartment Museum D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.mu-seumpushkin.ru. Through the old oak doors you enter a tranquil courtyard, surrounded by 18th century buildings, to find a statue of Alexander Pushkin, strewn with fresh flowers. This is the place where he lived and where he died after his tragic duel. Pushkin‘s legacy is well captured; learn about his inspirations, life and character. His death-mask displayed in a glass case is certainly something to see, as is his beautiful library of over 2000 books. Q Open 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 100Rbl, Audioguide 100Rbl. Guided tours up to 20 people 4,000Rbl per group.

Possibly the most famous and best loved monument in the city, the Bronze Horseman is as much an emblem of St. Petersburg as the Statue of Liberty is emblematic of New York. The bronze statue of Peter the Great and his even greater horse was designed at the behest of Catherine the Great by French sculptor Étienne Maurice Falconet. The massive granite pedestal on which the six metre statue stands, known as ‘the thunderstone’, is estimated to weigh 1500 tonnes and is thought to be the largest stone ever moved by manpower alone. The 6km journey across land (to a waiting barge) took two years to complete and is considered one of Russia’s greatest historical feats of engineering. The statue was later immortalised in a poem by Pushkin in which the bronze horseman comes to life and chases the poem’s hero Evgeny through the city’s streets. Look around the horse’s feet for a snake being crushed - said to be representative of Peter’s defeat of Sweden.C-2, Aleksandrovsky garden, MAdmiralteiskaya.

The Bronze Horseman

Marble Palace D-2, Ul. Millionnaya 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 91 96, www.rusmuseum.ru. During Soviet times, this museum of foreign art was called the Lenin Museum. It has a decent collection, which includes works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and even Picasso. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-300Rbl.

Mikhailovsky Castle D-2, Ul. Sadovaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. The palace, with its canals and secret underground passageway, was built to protect Tsar Paul I, who was petrified of being murdered. Ironically, 40 days after he moved in, he was assassinated in a military plot. A few years later, it became a school for engineers, and today, it‘s a branch of the Russian Museum. It has a portrait gallery of Russian public figures, temporary exhibitions and occasionally plays and lectures. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.

Russian Museum - Mikhailovsky Palace D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thir-teenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, what-ever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for contain-ing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. U

Russian Museum

Statues of Lenin can be found in the Botanical Gardens on the Petrograd Side (PS) (D-1), and across town at Smolny Institute. I f you’re flying out, wave goodbye to Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov (Lenin’s full name) as you go past Ploshchad Moskovskaya. I f you’re at Finlyandsky Station (E-2) though you will no longer see Lenin. He’s under re-pair after having a giant hole blown through his legs with TNT on April 01 2009. Those pesky kids…

Looking for Lenin?Russians are a superstitious bunch and all over St. Petersburg you’ll find various statues and monuments that locals believe will guarantee that lady luck shines your way. If you are in need of some good fortune here’s where you should head.

Chizhik pizhikLittle chizhik pizhik (Coming from the nursery rhyme, “Chizhik Pizhik where have you been? Drinking vodka on the green”), is a tiny little bronze bird installed on the wall of the Fontanka embankment. According to local legend if your coin lands on his little shelf, then you will one day return to St. Petersburg. Sometimes people love Chizhik so much they want to take him home with them and it is reported that the Museum of Urban Sculpture now has 12 extra Chizhik’s in storage just in case. Chizhik Pizhik is also rumoured to help students to get through unhappy love-affairs and get around on public trans-port without having tickets. Thanks little Chizhik!Corner of nab. reky Fon-tanky and nab. reky Moi-ky. MNevsky pr.

Cat Vasilisa on Malaya SadovayaDuring the great Siege of Leningrad, a large number of cats were specially brought to the city to try and combat the problem of an increasing rat population. This bronze cat, named Vasilisa, was put here in memory of those great feline defenders. Locals believe that if you can throw a coin up onto the ledge where she sits you’ll have a very lucky day. The cat itself however has not always been so lucky - she is known to regularly fall off her perch as people attempt to climb up there and collect the coins. If she’s not there then she probably fell off again and is waiting in the burger house next door for someone to arrive with a ladder.Malaya Sadovaya, MNevsky pr.

The Hare saved from the flood‘The Hare Saved from the Flood’ is a monument to a legend dating back to the first founding days of St. Pe-tersburg. The story goes that, during the construction of the Peter and Paul fortress, Peter the Great (who lived in a cabin nearby) visited the building site one day and got very angry with his lazy carpenters. In fact he was so mad that he was ready to start kicking them all in the face, when seemingly from nowhere a hare suddenly jumped onto his boot in an apparent bid to save the workers. Fortunately Peter found the whole thing hilarious and decided to spare the workers and the hare. Now locals believe that it’s good luck if your coin lands on the little bunny’s post in the water next to the bridge.Ioannovsky Most, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya

The GriffinsThe two griffins guarding the treasures of the State Acad-emy of Arts on the Universitetskaya embankment, also supposedly protect the city’s citizens too. Legend has it that if you stick your hand into the mouth of one of the two griffins and stroke its tongue, then it will grant you a wish in return. There’s only one catch though. Apparently you can only wish for something nice to happen to someone else.Universitetskaya nab. 11, MVasileostrovskaya

Toss a coin


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Artillery Museum D-2, PS, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. If weapons are your thing, then you‘ll enjoy having a look around this stockpile of old Russian and foreign military vehicles, dif-ferent pieces of artillery, as well as artillery armaments and ammunition, rifles, military- engineering equipment, banners, military uniforms and insignia numbering more that 850,000 items. The Museum also holds impressive collections of military related paintings, drawings and sculptures. Outside, big tanks and rocket-launchers are reminders of the military might of the former Soviet Union. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 150-300Rbl. Guided tours in English for groups (2 - 30 people) 1,250-5,700Rbl per group by prior arrangement. U

Central Naval Museum C-2, Birzhevaya pl. 4, MS-portivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 25 02, www.navalmu-seum.ru. Located in the former stock-exchange building, this museum shows the history of the Russian and Soviet Navy, from the time of Peter the Great until the present. Its exhibits include uniforms, flags and even a submarine complete with loaded torpedoes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 60 - 400Rbl. Photography 60Rbl, video 100Rbl.

Cruiser Avrora E-2, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.na-valmuseum.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri.

Suvorov Memorial Museum E-3, Ul. Kirochnaya 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Although this museum takes the name of Suvorov, the great war general of Empress Catherine the Great, it actually covers much more than the military accomplishments of one man. There are compara-tive history displays of war and battle of the 18th century all over Europe, the deeds of Napoleon and the uniforms and regalia of the time. Did you know that it was only after the news that Suvorov died that Napoleon decided to invade Russia? The building itself is also worth seeing, built in 1904 following a decree from Nicholas II in a grand style to accentuate what is Russia‘s first memorial museum. To facilitate better understanding of the museum, we recom-mend taking a guide as they add that extra knowledge which prevents this from being just another visit around some glass covered exhibits. QOpen , Mon, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed. Closed first Monday in month. Admission 20-250Rbl.

Tours around St. PetersburgBiketour D-3, Skat Prokat Bike Shop, Ul. Goncharnaya 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 68 38, www.bik-etour.spb.ru. Want to see St. Petersburg by bike? Rent a bike at Skatprokat for the day and wander the canals at your own pace. They provide locks and helmets, are centrally located next to train station, Moskovsky Vokzal, they can help you plan the best route around the city and help to navigate around the traffic.This bilingual guided bike tour (3,5 - 4hrs) leaves every Saturday and Sunday at 11:00 from Skat prokat Bike shop . The tour takes in the panorama of St. Petersburg in all its glory, avoiding main roads and traffic and covers all the big sights.QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Cost 1200 Rbl (including bike rental, discount for children and for those who bring their own bike).

City Tour Bus D-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69, www.citytourspb.ru. Tracing a route around the city‘s most popular spots such as St. Isaac‘s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these hop-on, hop-off buses are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route takes just over 2 hours to complete and there are audio-guides available in eight languages including Chinese and Japanese. The added advantage is also that there is an interval of around 2 hours between stops which is long enough for photos, lunch or even a beer on an embankment. Q Bus leaves every 1 hour from pl. Ostrovskogo starting at 09:00 with the last departure at 20:00. Adults 450Rbl, students 350Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl. Ticket remains valid for 1 day and can be bought on the bus. PUN

Peterswalk - Walking, Bicycle and Boat Tours E-3, tel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tour one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with their ‘alternative’ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. They also have bicycle tours and new canal boat tours: enjoy the view of Saint Petersburg sitting on a brand new comfortable boat with an open deck at the back and a sun-roof inside area in the front. And you can bring your own drinks in here! For more information and full timetable check out the website. Q Original walking tour daily 10:30 (Vladimirsky pr. 1); bicycle tour Sat, San 11:00.

Sptn!k C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, www.sptnik.com. Those who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than just sweatily bumping into them in metro carriages and late night clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service offered by sptn!k. It‘s a simple scheme whereby lo-cal volunteers take visitors into the best parts of their daily life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas, communal apartments, flea markets, artist studios, student dorms or quirky courtyards, every tour is unique, insightful and enlightening. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they aim to give tourists a slice of real life and show them their favourite parts of the city which tourists might never get to see, whilst also giving their foreign guests the chance to meet and get to know real citizens of St. Petersburg. To see what their previous walking tours have been like check out their blog blog.sptnik.com and to get on in a tour yourself head to their official website sptnik.com. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

Military MuseumsArctic and Antarctic Museum D-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polar-museum.ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Ant-arctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

Russian orthodoxy has always been closely associated with pilgrimages and the worshiping of icons and holy relics. Across Russia there are hundreds of sites where the faithful come hoping for miracles and religious soli-tude. St. Petersburg of course is also no stranger to the phenomenon and hosts its own number of pilgrimage sites dedicated to locally interred saints.

St. KseniaDeep inside the Smolensky cemetery on Vasilevsky ostrov you will find a tiny green church built over the grave of the city’s most revered Saint Ksenia. Widowed at the age of 27, Ksenia gave up all worldly possessions to spend her life in prayer as a pauper. She was believed to be clairvoyant and soon became famous in the city for her predictions and miraculous and selfless actions. When she died in 1803 and was buried in the Smolensky cemetery, every year her grave had to be replaced as pilgrims would come and take the earth away from it, believing it to have healing properties. Eventually the locals decided to build a small church over the grave for her and ever since the faithful have come here in their thousands seeking Ksenia’s help. Be warned the church is very small and popular so it can be a bit of an ordeal for those who suffer from claustrophobia. St. Ksenia’s feast day is February 06.Church of St. Ksenia, Smolensky cemetery, MVasil-eostrovskaya

Alexander NevskyAlexander Nevsky, Russia’s great medieval hero who has lent his name to St. Petersburg’s main thoroughfare, as well as a brand of local beer, was canonised in 1547, almost 300 years after he died. His greatest claim to fame was in defeating the invading Catholic German and Swedish armies and making peace with the Golden Horde and thus bringing stability and prosperity to ancient Rus. Nevsky died in 1263 and in 1380 (in response to a vision on the eve of a great battle) his grave was dug up and his remains were found completely intact and incorrupted inside.His relics then became highly vener-ated and when Peter the Great built the first monastery in St. Petersburg, he had Nevsky’s holy remains moved there. To this day Nevsky’s remains lie in the Alexander Nevskogo cemetery alongside a massive 95 other saints and martyrs. St. Alexander Nevsky’s feast days are celebrated on August 30 and November 23. Alexander Nevskogo Cemetery, Pl. Alexander Nevsk-ogo, MPl. Alexandra Nevskogo

St. John of KrohnstadtAlso known as the Wonder-Working Father John Sergiev of Krohnstadt, St. John was canonised officially by the Russian Orthodox Church in 1990, some 80 years after his death. Until he was canonised he was already vener-ated by the many faithful who remembered him as a man of miracles and incredible kindness. He dedicated his life to charitable works and to teaching the local children of the impoverished and squalid Kronstadt island in the mid and late 19th Century, where he worked as a local priest. After he died he was buried in the Convent of St. John in the centre of St. Petersburg and even throughout Soviet times, faithful pilgrims came to leave flowers at the crypt where he is interred. St.John’s feast days are celebrated on December 20 and October 19. Ioannovsky Convent, nab. reky Karpovky 45, MPetrogradskaya

Saints of Petersburg

Like most European Empires, the tsarist Russian em-pire was in love with monumental and exotic Egyptian symbolism. The most famous sphinxes in St. Peters-burg are the city’s only original pair. Situated on nab. Universitetskaya 7 (C-2, MVasileovstrovskaya) you’ll find two, 32 ton beasts carved from Aswan granite, which were brought here from Egypt in 1832. Hieroglyphs on the side of the monuments link them to Pharaoh Amunhotep of Thebes (1417 – 1379 BC) who was ‘The builder of monuments rising to the sky’. Further down the Neva on Nab. Robespyera (E-2, MChernyshevskaya) you’ll find ‘Russia’s dark prince of the underground’ (formally known as Mikhail Shem-yakin) monuments to the politically repressed. Inspired by their Egyptian brothers downstream, but situated opposite the Kresty prison where for centuries Rus-sian political prisoners were held, these black beasts are half mythical feline creature and half emaciated ghoulish monsters.

Egypt on the Neva


5352 furtHer Afield furtHer Afield

Pavlovsk, tel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmu-seum.ru. Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27 kilometers from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is great place to get away from it all. Q Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Park open daily. Admission to park 80-150Rbl. Admission to palace 300-500Rbl.GETTING THERE: From Kupchino metro station marshrutka 286, 545; from Moskovskaya metro station take marshrutka 299; from Vitebsky station or metro station Kupchino (last stop of blue line) take a local train to Pavlovsk station (journey time 35minutes) which is just next to the entrance to the Pavlovsk park.

Peterhof Palace and Park, tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles‘, Peterhof (pronounced Petergof in Russian) is one of Russia‘s number one tourist attractions. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Note that in autumn and winter months the fountains are switched off and boarded up, so you should only come if you are interested in seeing the palace itself. Other muse-ums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house were Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to park the upper park is free, lower park (where the grand cascade and the other large fountains are) 400Rbl. Admission Great Palace 200-520Rbl, audioguide 500Rbl. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. GETTING THERE: From Baltiisky station, take a train to Peterhof station or bus 350, 351, 352, 356, or marshrutka 404. From metro Avtovo, take marshrutka 224, 300 or 424 and from metro Leninsky pr. take marshrutka 103.

Pushkin/Tsarskoe Selo 24km south of St. Peters-burg. Tsarskoye selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of St. Petersburg‘s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries Tsarskoye Selo or the Royal Village was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town cel-ebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with unusual monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.Q Catherine‘s Palace open 10:00 - 17:00 (for individuals 12:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 17:00). Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Catherine Park open 07:00 - 21:00. Catherine Palace admission 280-550Rbl (includes Amber Room), park admission free. GETTING THERE: From Vitebsky station, take a train to Detskoe Selo station, from there you can walk to Catherine‘s palace (20 min) or take bus N371 or N382. The Alexander Palace is around a 10 minute walk from the Catherine Palace along Dvortsovaya ulitsa. From Moskovskaya metro station, take marshrutka N286, 287, 342, 347, 545.

Repino Primorskoe shosse 411, tel. (+7) 812 432 08 34, www.repino.info. Named after the painter Ilya Repin (Russia‘s Rembrandt), Repino is a seaside suburb, where people come for cross-country skiing in winter. Visit the beautiful reconstruction of the wooden house that Repin designed for his family, which is set in pleasant gardens, with small wooden stages and gazebos scattered about the rugged grounds. The gulf is just across the painter‘s former residence and makes for some nice contemplative strolling. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis-sion 30-300Rbl.GETTING THERE: From metro Staraya derevnya take marshrutka 305, from Finlyandsky station train bound for Roshchino, Vyborg, Zelenogorsk or Kirillovskoe.

Konstantinovsky Palace Strelna, Beryozovaya al. 3, tel. (+7) 812 438 53 50, www.konstantinpalace.ru. Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. The Palace as also the venue for the G8 meeting in 2006. Historically speaking, the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanov‘s, however after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays, the public can enjoy the immaculate and tidy lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building). Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it‘s not closed for an official function. You must show your passport when you enter. Admission 450-650Rbl, only on a pre-booked tour (tel. (+7) 812 438 53 60). GETTING THERE: from Prospekt Veteranov metro, take marshrutka 392, 343, 850 or any marshrutka labelled Petrodvoretz and alight at Strelna. From Avtovo metro take marshrutka 300, 424, 424-а. Alternatively take an electrichka from Baltiiskaya Station to Strelna.

Oranienbaum / Lomonosov Grand Palace: Dvortsovy pr. 48, Lomonosov, tel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, peterhofmuseum.ru. Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn‘t so popular among tourists, however it is a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, One of Peter the Great‘s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov‘s Grand Palace hasn‘t changed a great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn‘t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov. You can have cheap Russian dinner in a cafe near the administration building , the only place in the park where you can buy some food or drinks. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces 10:30 - 17:00, open only on Sat and Sun. Park admission free. Palace of Peter III 70-140Rbl, Stone Audience Chamber 70-140Rbl. GETTING THERE: From Avtovo metro, take bus 200 or marshrutka 300, 420 (direction Lomonosov, 40min); or from Baltiisky station, take a train bound for Oranienbaum, Kalishe or Krasnoflotsk.

Outside PetersburgWeather aside, you are in the midst of a city with easy access to charming and tranquil places for you to roam and explore. Take a stroll outside city chaos and let your imagination be inspired by the dream-like surroundings.

Gatchina 45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace: Krasno-armeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92. It may have the austere look of a military institution, but inside you can see that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, although the rooms are not so luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent exhibitions including a weaponry display and the church at the top of Gatchina‘s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina‘s palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park is a great place to stretch your legs! Q Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month. Admission to the park is free. Tours of the park: 10-380Rbl (palace tour included). Palace admission: 50-220Rbl. GETTING THERE: From Moskovskaya metro, take bus N431 or marshrutka K18; or from Baltiisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also (confusingly) called Baltiisky.

Kronshtadt, www.nash-kronshtadt.ru. The strategic naval base of Kronshtadt was founded on Kotlin island in 1704. Kronshtadt is famous because, in 1921, its battalion mutinied against the Bolshevik‘s harsh revolutionary policies. The government‘s response was to slaughter almost the entire battalion. During Soviet times, the city was closed. It opened in 1996, and, today, it‘s a interesting place to wan-der and look at rusting warships, naval symbols and other remains of Soviet naval glory. Krohnstadt‘s striking Byzantine cathedral has an museum of naval and local history, although it‘s only in Russian. GETTING THERE: From Chernaya Rechka metro, take marshrutka 405, 406, from Staraya Derevnya metro, take bus 101, from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro, take marshrutka 407. Waterbuses leave from nab. Arsenalnaya at the pier in front of Finlandsky station, last boat leaves Kronshtadt at 17:30.


5554 moscow

Veliky NovgorodFounded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin - which matches Moscow’s in both size and age - there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

SightseeingVeliky Novgorod KremlinThe heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Ilmen lakeIt is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable posi-tion right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. There’s also a great Russian restaurant opposite the museum called Yurievskie Podvorie which does a good line in local specialties such as the mildly alcoholic beverage Sbiten. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Admission to the Vitoslavitsy museum costs 90-150Rbl, entrance to the monastery is free.

Where to stayPark Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 8162 940 910, www.parkinn.com/hotel-velikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. The hotel celebrated 20 years in Novgorod this winter and wel-comed in the jubilee with yet more improvements as the hotel is brought up to the bright and colourful Park Inn trademark look. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s now also the Night Art Club down there too. Access to the large swimming pool and saunas are included in the price as well as a children’s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus no. 4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (23 suites 8,500Rbl, 202 Single/double 4,200 - 5,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other similarly priced hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facili-ties including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (49 singles 1,950 - 2,200Rbl, 56 doubles 2,700 - 2,900Rbl, 15 suites 4,500 - 5,000Rbl, 2 Duplex 8,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. Visa support 800Rbl, registration free of charge. HALGKDCW hhh

Eating and drinkingKhoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you‘ve been to this place you won‘t want to eat anywhere else - it‘s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don‘t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). W

Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) 8162 946 066, tk-podvorie.ru/en/. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you‘ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten‘ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW

Veliky noVGorod

Buses from St. Petersburg run hourly until around 20:00. The journey takes around 3.5hrs and should cost 350 - 400Rbl. Buses to Veliky Novgorod leave from the St. Peters-burg bus station, nab. Obvodnogo Kanal 36, MObvodnogo Kanal. To get to the centre of Novgorod from the bus station take bus number 3, or alternatively you can walk down prospekt Karl Marksa (it will take about 20 minutes). You can also take an elektrichka from Moskovsky Vokzal.

Getting There

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Russia’s addictive capital is a chaotic mix of the traditional old and the fabulous new. Most Petersburg residents will probably tell you all kinds of things about how much they hate Moscow, but that’s all just local rivalry, there is in fact a lot to love. In fact you may come back with new con-troversial feelings of adoration towards Russia’s bustling capital. And even if you don’t, well, at least remember that you haven’t been to the heart of Russia until you’ve visited Red Square right?

Red Square and the KremlinSt. Basil’s, Lenin’s mausoleum, the famous GUM store and the State History Museum surround the world famous square. You can spend a whole day just exploring the area. Start out in the morning with Lenin’s tomb, get you picture taken in front of St. Basil’s iconic domes before taking on the immense State History Museum. Grab some lunch in GUM and browse the designer shops or pick up some posh goodies in the depart-ment store’s gourmet supermarket. The famous Kremlin isan undoubted must for a first time visit to Moscow.

Enjoy the great outdoorsMoscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patri-arch’s Ponds. Thrill seekers can combine sightseeing with sledging at the Kolomenskoye Park Estate where Russians have been throwing themselves down the snowy slopes for generations or on Moscow’s Sparrow Hills where you can get a panoramic view of the city.

Explore the Soviet PastIt was the Soviets who moved the capital back from St. Pe-tersburg to Moscow and reminders of the city’s communist past are visible everywhere across the city’s skyline. A huge collection of 20th Century Russian art sheds light on the complexities of the Soviet period at the Tretyakov Gallery on Krymsky Val and the GULAG Museum offers a sobering account of the horrors faced by millions in the Soviet prison camps. For monumental architecture and statues head to the huge All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs), while nothing can beat the Cold War Bunker Tour for a fun and enlightening trip into the secrets of the KGB and the Cold War.

Literature and TheatreMany of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few - have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led (now named in his honour) is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

Fine DiningWith more billionaires per square metre than any other city in the world, it goes without saying there are some truly fabulous places to dine in Moscow. Michelin chefs at the Lotte Hotel, imperial dining on silver platters and mountains of caviar at the Marriott Royal Aurora or Cafe Pushkin, the best sushi this side of Tokyo in Aozora or MEGU - You name it, it’s here to be eaten. At the other end of the spectrum Moscow is a magnet for foreign immigrants and they’ve all brought their outstanding home-cooking with them to the dining scene at places such as the Georgian Madame Galife or Beloye Sontse Pustiny.

Moscow never sleepsThe popular local saying is that ‘Moscow never sleeps’ and by the way people party here it certainly ain’t no lie. Don’t be surprised to find yourself in a club still dancing as the sun rises or enjoying an impromptu live concert at a local bar at 5am. If you have the stamina a night out in Moscow is usually one that is not quickly forgotten and if you are looking for the hippest clubs in Russia, then look no further than the Red October Factory area, Moscow’s most jumping area at the weekend.

For a full guide to what to see, do, eat, drink and more in Moscow you can download a full 68-page pdf version of our Moscow In Your Pocket guide at our website www.moscow.inyourpocket.com, where you can also explore thousands of online listings and recommendations for how to enjoy your time in the capital.

Moscow In Your Pocket


57shopping

La Petite Opera Gallery C-2, Grand Hotel Europe and Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. La Petite Opera is one of the oldest galleries of Russian art. Working directly with the artists they offer extraordinary pieces of fine art and elegant craftsmanship. The gallery‘s collection includes original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of original lacquer miniatures meticulously done in both clas-sic and contemporary styles. There are also samples of traditional steel arms, fine chess and backgammon sets, and contemporary and antique paintings. The decorative pieces are the quality equivalent of what one would find on display at no less an institution than the Hermitage. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Nevsky Souvenir Shop C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (en-trance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com. One stop shopping for reminders of your visit or for all your loved ones back home, priced to fit any and all budgets. Hand painted matroshkas, chess boards and boxes representing different schools of painting - the icon tradition and the realist tradition. Faberge style eggs and natural amber necklaces in some stunning designs, along with hand-blown glass figurines and ornaments are contrasted by quirkier items like scarves, puppets, magnets, key rings and oven gloves. Clothing items include standard t-shirts but they also have some beautiful traditional flowered scarves and embroidered linen peasant shirts and aprons. The helpful English speaking staff can also help you to book tickets for the theatre and tours. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A

The Russian Imperial Porce-lain Factory, known during Soviet times as the Lomono-sov Porcelain factory, was founded in St. Petersburg by Empress Elizabeth in 1744 and is one of the oldest manufacturers in the world of fine porcelain and china. The earliest pieces were produced almost exclusively for nobility and the royal family, while in later years the factory began to add lower priced designs for those unable to afford the bespoke exclusive collections. Following the Bolshevik revolution the factory was nationalised and a wide range of new futurist ‘propaganda’ designs were produced depict-ing the glories of socialism as well as members of the Soviet elite. In 1949 the factory’s most famous pattern the cobalt net appeared, based on a design which was once used for a dinner set for Catherine the Great. The extremely elegant white design, hand painted with intri-cate lines made with the blue mineral cobalt and edged with gold, is a now a classic. The Imperial Porcelain Factory store is located at Pr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 560 85 44, www.ipm.ru. There are also official Imperial Porcelain stores in the city centre at:Vladimirsky pr. 7 MVladimirskaya, tel. (812) 713 1513Nevsky pr. 160, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 717 48 38Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 32 62

Imperial PorcelainMoscow Culture and EventsThrough 14.10 SundayJoseph Beuys: Call for an alternativeB-3/2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), Go-golevsky bul. 10, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Dedicated to the world famous modern German artist whose extensive and occasionally controversial artworks, made him one of the most influential German artists of the 20th Century. Joseph Beuys’ work is intense and thought-provoking. This impressive exhibition will show off some of his most famous installations brought over especially from Germany such as The End of the Twentieth Century and Tram Stop as well other artworks which the artist used to illustrate his unique thoughts on society. Videos of his most famous performances will also be screened including How to Explain Pictures to a Dead Hare and I Like America and America Likes Me. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month.

Through 04.11 SundayAuguste RodinTsaritsyno museum estate, ul. Dolskaya 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) was one of the most influential sculptors of the 19th century. His innovative modeling technique earned him praise as the greatest sculptor since Michelangelo. He created highly expressive sculptures of the human body showing such universal emotions as love, hate and despair. This exhibition uses sculptures made from casts of their originals in France and brings together such famous oeuvres as The Thinker, The Burghers of Calais, Eternal Spring, The kiss, The Age of Bronze, the fragments of a spectacular Mouvement de Dance and Rodin`s album named Goupil with 137 sketches and drawings by the artist. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

Through 18.11 SundayLe Corbusier. The secrets of creativity. Be-tween painting and architectureC-2, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www.artsmuseum.ru. This multi-faceted exhibition presents the many talents and ideas of the pioneering architect, designer and writer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, better known as Le Corbusier. The first part of the exhibit, with the help of his diaries and journals, examines the sources of his inspiration, particularly travel, painting and sculpture. The second part looks at Corbusier’s influence on Russian architecture - par-ticularly his collaboration with early Soviet architects. The other sections of the exhibit look at his publishing works and his theories on the use of public space (in particular museums) and include dozens of photographs detailing his later life as well as numerous models of his most famous structures. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

HotelsComrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd Floor (go under arch to the left of the playground), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com.Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevs-kaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhhHotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermit-agehotel.ru. hhhIbis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPave-letskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel.com. hhhLotte Hotel Moscow B-2, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lot-tehotel.ru. hhhhhMarriott Moscow Royal Aurora Hotel C-1, Ul. Petro-vka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriott.com/mowdt. hhhhhMarriott Moscow Tverskaya Hotel B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. hhhhPeking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMaya-kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking.ru. hhhh

56 moscow

If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

Luxury Trains to Moscow

AntiquesAkademkniga D-3, Liteiny pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 13 98, www.akbook.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. NLaRusse D-3, Ul. Stremyannaya 3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 20 43, www.larusse.ru. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. AL

BookshopsAnglia D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 82 84, www.anglophile.ru. Anglia has the biggest range of English-language books in the city. There are selections of different works on Russian culture, history, and politics as well. Besides English, they also have books in five european languages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A

Bukvoed D-3, Ligovsky pr. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Roomy, full of books and gifts, stationery and the like, there is a cafe in the back which hosts free guitar sessions and poetry readings and where you can hang out and use the wi-fi. They have a sizeable English language section with a host of shoddy paperbacks to stock up on if you‘re going on a train trip and cultural guides on Russia. Q Open 24hrs. AKW

Dom Knigy C/D-2, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. The city‘s favourite bookshop boasts a historic location, three spacious floors of books and a quiet café overlooking Nevsky pr. In halls with highly domed ceilings and brightly tiled floors, the range of reading material is astonishing. Dom Knigy offers a good range of classic and modern non-Russian and translated Russian literature as well as coffee-table books and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AKW

FursElena Furs D-3, Nevsky pr. 90-92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 89 01, elena-furs.ru. Also at Ligovsky pr. 55/4 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) and ul. Sadovaya 33 (metro Sennaya). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AObsession furs D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimir-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 36 25, www.obsessionfurs.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. A

Gifts and SouvenirsChocolate Museum C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.concord-catering.ru/boutiques/museum. This designer-chocolate bou-tique, tucked in the basement of the Stroganov palace, has handmade chocolates and chocolate sculptures. Hungry chocolate-loving capitalists can even take home their very own chocolate Lenin. Also at Ul. Zhukovskogo 18. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AS

Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow everyday from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Getting There

Look out for our full Moscow In Your Pocket guide to the city or check out our website

moscow.inyourpocket.com for more information

In addition to concierges all over the city (Astoria, Crown Plaza and Corinthia, to name but a few) and restaurants (such as Tandoori Nights, Marchelli’s and King Pong, for example) you can also pick up the latest copy of this guide in Nevsky Centre. While you’re there shopping, don’t forget to have a drink with a view at the Moskva rooftop restaurant after a soothing massage from Royal Thai.

Get your next copy


5958 Shopping

Onegin Souvenirs & Gallery D-2, Ul. Italyanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. Opposite the Russian museum, Onegin has a wide range of superior souvenirs including a fantastic range of amber, jewellery, crystal, china as well as traditional St. Petesrburg themed paraphernalia. All souvenirs are officially quality certified so you‘re guaranteed that nothing here is some shoddy made-in-China stuff. They also have modern Russian paintings for sale, etchings and water-colours and will offer you free coffee, tea and snacks. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. 08:00 - 22:00 from 1st May till 15th September. AUL

Pavloposadskie Platki Shop Nevsky pr. 87/2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. This is the shop to go to if you are interested in purchasing a high-quality scarf or shawl. Their designs feature many varia-tions of traditional flowered motifs, along with more subdued hounds tooth patterns for the gentlemen or playful animals for children. Particularly special are some of the silk scarves which can also feature Russian saints, art deco patterns and other atypical styles. All of their products are manufactured in Russia and use all natural materials - wool, cotton and silk. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Souvenirs Fair D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. If you need gifts to cart back to your friends and family, make sure to stop by this outdoor souvenir market on canal Griboedov behind the Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood. The market‘s specialties include hand-painted matryoshka dolls of all sizes, Soviet memora-bilia, cheap fur-hats, beautifully designed chess boards and Mc Lenin t-shirts. Most of the vendors speak good English, and bargaining is normal practice; in fact, it‘s expected! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. N

Shopping centresBolshoy Gostiny Dvor D-2, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TALKGaleria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, www.galeria-spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AKGrand Palace D-2, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italianskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALKWPassazh (Passage) D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AKPIK Shopping Centre C-3, Ul. Efimova 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 449 20 03, www.tk-pik.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. LKWSennaya Shopping Centre C-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSen-naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 24, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. TALKStockmann Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

SupermarketsArora Spices C-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul. 1, 2d floor, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 911 729 26 97. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.Eliseevsky Store D-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AStockmann Delicatessen D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, www.stockmann.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A

expAt

Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs from the classics Rus-sian doll to quirky Soviet memorabilia. These are some of the more essential things you should consider bringing home with you:

Shapka ushanka. If you want to look as much a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian fur hat or shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-thetourist points. Most things you will find in the markets are fake fur, if you want to pay for a real fur hat then head to a fur shop.

Matryoshka. That’s those Russian nesting dolls. Any-where you go you will be spoilt for choice whether you are after the classic simple red and yellow design to something large and glittery or even a dictators of the world set. Also look out for paint-your-own-matrioshka kits - they make great gifts for kids.

Vodka. Good brands include Russky Standart, Beluga, Tsarskaya or the Ukrainian Nemiroff. For something kitsch opt for the Kalashnikov or Matrioshka brands sold in bottles shaped to match their names. Note that you are allowed to take only 2 litres of strong alcohol out of the country with you. If you are going to Estonia the amount allowed is only 1 litre.

Soviet memorabilia. Those fantastic Soviet public advertising posters can be found in most bookshops or souvenir stores, while Lenin statues, CCCP hip flasks and flags are available in almost any souvenir stores.

Russian crafts. There are various different designs and schools of Russian crafts and a bit of everything is still a realistic wish list. If you don’t have too much souvenir space we recommend you pick up a khokhloma (the red, black and gold shiny wooden stuff) spoon and bowl set, perhaps a gzhel (the blue and white glazed pottery) tea set, a carved birch bark comb (said to be very good for you hair) and a Russian lacquer box.

Platok. These beautiful Russian scarves come in many different colours and designs and are particularly warm accessories for the winter months. If you are not so keen on the flowers and bright colours of the classic platok and are willing to fork out a bit more money, Orenburgsky platok are very fine and delicate silk-like scarves made from the down hair of goats, which usually come in white, grey and muted pastel colours.

Russian Souvenirs Expat ContactsAIESEC A-4, Moskovsky pr. 103, off. 315, MMos-kovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 718 50 05, add 7413, www.aiesec.ru/spb/. Also in FINEK (State University of Economics and Finances), Moskatelny per. 4, off. 341 (metro Nevsky pr.).Deutsche Runde/Stammtisch, tel. (+7) 921 879 99 62, [email protected]. The German speaking community, native speakers and Russians, gather together about once a month for a cosy evening of socialising. Please contact Andreas Bitzi for more information.Dutch Drinking Committee, www.nlvpetersburg.com. Dutch expatriates gather together to share beer and experiences every last Friday of the month. Belgian citizens welcome too!English Communication Club, tel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, [email protected], www.encc.ru. A community of English speaking people, both native speakers and Russians, who meet twice a week to socialise, improve their English communication skills, make new friends and simply have a good time. There is also a communication club for children, where your kids can learn or practice English in a joyful creative environment.German-Russian Exchange D-3, Ligovsky pr. 87, off. 300, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 37 91, ob-men.org.International Women‘s Club (IWC), [email protected], www.iwcstpete.com. English speaking net-work of over 100 women residing in St. Petersburg, diverse social and friendly! There are many interest groups including painting, cookery and languages and a general meeting is held once a month.

International Schools/Pre-schoolsAnglo-American School D-2, Ul. Penkovaya 5, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 89 25, www.aas.ru.British kindergarten World of Education D-1, Ul. Ordinarnaya 20, appt. 34, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 16 91.German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutsch-eschule.ru. School from 1st to 8th grades, Kindergarten/pre-school from 3 to 6 years.QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtats-kaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

It’s not easy living in Russia as a foreigner, but there is a growing expat network. As the expat community expands, we want to let you know about groups you may be interested to join. If you would like your group to be featured here, please send your contacts to [email protected].

Cultural Centres and LibrariesAdelante (Spanish centre) D-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 18 80, www.centro-adelante.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.American Corners D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www.amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.British Book Centre B-3, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru.Estonian Cultural Center B-2, Dekabristov ul. 54, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaani-kirik.ru.Finnish Institute D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Goethe Institute C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSen-naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.Institut Francais C-2, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Istituto Italiano di Cultura B-2, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsan-pietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun.The Japan Center C-2, Ul. Marata 69-71, 3d floor, off. 34N, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat, Sun closed.The Netherlands Institute F-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, Inter-Nations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same inter-ests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.

InterNations


61lifestyle directory60 expat

Banyas, Spas and PoolsHoliday Club Spa and Wellness (Sokos hotel Palace Bridge) C-2, VO, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVas-ileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 14, www.clu-beasyfit.ru. One of the city‘s most luxurious and famous spa complexes. Eight saunas, a massive pool with plenty of spaces for lounging, fresh juices and smoothies from the juice bar and treatments from professional therapists make a visit to the Holiday Club feel like stepping into another supremely relaxing world. Keeping with tradition the have even an ice room for the post sauna roll in the snow. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Royal Thai D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, Nevsky Center, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29/(+7) 911 901 13 13, www.royalthai.ru. The location is unbeatable, smack in the centre, next to two metro lines and inside the all encompassing Nevsky Centre. It sounds a bit hectic but that is exactly why Royal Thai is perfectly placed as a retreat. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddhas and dim lighting great you as you enter. Treatments from expert masseurs are available from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and scrubs. The focus here is on mind, body and spirit and after one session here you’ll feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe. Gift certificates available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL

Clinics and HospitalsAmerican Medical Clinic and Hospital С-2, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/(+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. PAUEuromed Medical Center F-3, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTARUMEDEM International Clinic & Hospital D-3, Ul. Marata 6, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 336 33 33, www.medem.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PAUMedi International Clinic D-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMaya-kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PARussian-Finnish clinic Scandinavia D-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AZdorovye lyudi (24-hour pharmacy) D-3, Ul. Voss-taniya 19, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 59 20, zl.ru. Q Open 24hrs.

Entertainment CentresBowling Park C-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, Ul. Efi-mova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www.bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.Happylon (Galleria Shopping Centre) D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www.happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTJAW

Fitness Clubs and YogaAlex Fitness (Nevsky Shopping Centre) D-3, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 777 09 09. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.Planet Fitness C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 71 75, www.fitness.ru/eng/. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PAD Smart Pilates Nab. Kryukova kanala 11, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 958 12 42, www.smartpilates.ru/en/. Q Open: on request PF

Accountants and ConsultantsErnst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, 3rd floor, MAdmiral-teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 00, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Institute for Enterprise Issues C-3, Ul. Marata 92A, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

BanksAlfa Bank D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 6/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 44 30/(+7) 800 200 22 32, www.alfabank.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Raiffeisen Bank D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 800 700 91 00, www.raif-feisen.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Western Union C-2, Nevsky Prospekt 22-24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 80 50, www.westernunion.com. Also at Nevsky pr. 8A, 15, 26, 53, 61, 90, 104. Hotline 8 800 200 2232.

Business associationsAmerican Chamber of Commerce C- 2, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, business centre Na Novo-Isaaki-evskoy, left wing, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Busi-ness Association for North-Western Russia C-2, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Exhibition centersLenExpo trade fair B-1, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, MPri-morskaya, tel. (+7) 812 321 26 15, www.lenexpo.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.Mikhailovsky Manezh trade fair D-2, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 314 88 59, www.manege.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.SKK trade complex Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 12 11, www.spbckk.ru.

Lawyers and NotariesCastren & Snellman C-2, Nevsky pr. 22/24, off ice 18, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 325 80 85, www.castren.fi. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Mannheimer Swartling D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyush-ennaya 1/3A, Sweden House, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Moving and StorageAAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiyskaya 6, MVolkovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 431 99 19, www.aaa-russia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

The banya is the Russian version of the sauna. For some, it is a social event, to be enjoyed with friends and much drinking. For others, including some of the city’s communal-flat residents who don’t have showers at home, this is the normal way to wash. For this reason, banyas come in all shapes and sizes. Communal banyas have large rooms with showers, hot rooms and places to chill out and get dressed. Banyas usually have male and female sections, or alternate between men and women’s days. Private banyas are when you get a group of friends together and split the cost of a small banya between you. This can be a lot of fun. Don’t forget to pick up some birch leaves, on the way, to beat yourself and your friends with.

Degtyarnie Bathhouses E-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.d1a.ru. Heaven. There‘s just no other way to describe the experience of having a banya here. Tucked away in this seemingly unremarkable building are multiple floors offering everything one could possibly need for a relaxing retreat. Men‘s and women‘s wings are complete with a traditional Russian banyas, Turkish steam rooms, rain showers and swimming pools. There are also massage therapists and salon treatments available, as well as cafés offering fresh juices, full meals, herbal teas and adult beverages. The family room is an ideal option for a private occasion, with all of the luxury essentials, includ-ing a powerful hydro-massage Jacuzzi. VIP rooms are fit for an emperor or oligarch and can even be catered by the adjacent and above reproach Italian restaurant, Gusto. And as if the facilities weren‘t enough, the whole complex has a homely atmosphere with staff and clients alike greeting you like family. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

Kazachie bany C-3, Bolshoy Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 07 34, www.kazbani.ru. Kazachie has a common and a private lux banya for up to 10 people. The whole place works in the old-school way - nudity only - strictly no underwear all-lowed and no-one speaks English, but it is a real Russian experience, especially when the old regulars cover you in honey and start beating the hell out of you with branches. This is one of the oldest banyas in the city - over 130 years old. You can‘t get any more authentic than that! Q Open 24hrs.

Business Directory The Russian BanyaReligious ServicesBuddhist Temple Primorsky pr. 91, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 911 224 68 79, www.dazan.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed.Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg B-2, Ler-montovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 713 81 86, [email protected], www.jewsp.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00.On Saturday and Jewish festivals from 10:00 to 13:00 for prayer only.Lutheran church of Peter and Paul C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.Mosque D-2, Kronversky pr. 7, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 98 19, www.russian-mosques.com. Q Open only for services (5 times a day).Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-2, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Open 08:30 - 20:00.St. Catherine Church (Anglican) D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyushennaya 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81. QUsual Sunday services, at 11:00 (English). After the service, refreshments are provided. Sunday school for young children.St. Maria Finnish Church D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyush-enaya 6A, MKan. Griboedova, tel. (+7) 812 315 10 26.The Sha‘arei Shalom Progressive Jewish Community D-2, Ul. Michurinskaya 1a, room 21-H, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 28 83, www.reformspb.ru. QWeekly Torah study classes in Russian and English, kids club and Jewish cookery classes as well as various cultural and youth programs. Shabbat Services Friday 19:00.YESOD Jewish Community Home D-1, Ul. Bolshaya Raznochinnaya 25a, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.


63map62 metro mAp

It is admittedly difficult to keep your cool on public transport and particularly in St. Petersburg’s metro where during rush hour (read: all day) your head nestles under the armpit of a beer-drinking man. Nonetheless, it may be possible. A peaceful journey requires ac-complishing the virtually unthinkable: getting a seat, albeit squished between some plump babushkas. It is possible with gritted teeth and sharp elbows. If graced with a seat, be careful not to be lulled into the land of nod by the soothing rocking of the train, and miss your stop. Alternatively, settle for a spot leaning on the doors (but watch out for those tricky stations where your makeshift leaning-spot gapes open and plummets you onto the tracks) and take a good book. Holding it up to your face creates a wonderful zone of otherwise elusive personal space. Note than when someone mutters to you, they usually want to know if you’re getting off, and want you to get out the way. And the cardinal rule of course: whatever you do, don’t stare!

As the colder weather blows in beware of ice on streets and paths. The ability of Russian women to navigate the icy streets in 6-inch heels may seem like the eighth wonder of the world to most foreigners. But they have had a lot of training. For the rest of us, it is wiser to stick to comfortable shoes with good grip.

Metro Survival Tips

Slippery Streets

A smaller version of our broader scale map, this gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full

version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink.

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(+7) 812 448 88 65

66 Street regiSter

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Street Register1-27-ya liniya B-1/B-2/C-1/C-2Ak. Pavlova ul. D-1/E-1Angliskaya nab. C-2Anglisky pr. B-2Antonenko per. C-2Apraksin per. C-3Aptekarskaya nab. E-1Aptekarsky pr. E-1Arsenalnaya nab. E-2Bakunina pr. E-3/E-4Barochnaya ul. D-1Baskov per. D-3/E-3Belinskogo ul. D-3Beringa ul. B-1Birzhevoy per. C-2Bol. Kazachy per. C-3Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2Bol. Morskaya ul. C-2Bol. Moskovskaya ul. D-3Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. C-2Bol. Pushkarskaya ul. D-1Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. E-2Bol. Zelenina ul. D-1Bolshoy pr.(PS) D-1Bolshoy pr.(VO) B-1/B-2/C-2Borovaya ul. C-3/C-4Botkinskaya ul. E-2Boitsova per. C-3Bronnitskaya ul. B-3Chapaeva ul. E-2Chaikovskogo ul. D-2/E-2/E-3Chernigovskaya ul. B-4Chernnyshevsky pr. E-2/E-3Chernyakovskogo ul. C-4/D-4Chkalovskaya ul. D-1Degtyarnaya ul. E-3Dekabristov per. C-1Dekabristov ul. B-2/C-2Detskaya ul. B-1/B-2Dostoevskogo ul. C-3/D-3Dumskaya ul. C-2Dvortsovaya nab. D-2Efimova ul. C-2/C-3Finlyandsky pr. E-2

Fonarny per. C-2Fontanky reky nab. B-2/B-3/C-3/D-2/D-3Fontannaya ul. E-3Fruktovaya linia C-3Furshtatskaya ul. E-2/E-3Gagarinskaya ul. D-2Galernaya ul. C-2Glinki ul. B-2Goncharnaya ul. D-3Gorokhovaya ul. C-2/C-3Grafsky per. D-3Griboedova kan. nab. B-2/C-2/D-2Inzhenernaya ul. D-2Italyanskaya ul. D-2Izmailovsky pr. B-3K. Zaslonova ul. C-3Kadetskaya liniya C-2Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1/D-2Karavannaya ul. D-2Kavalergardskaya ul. E-3Kazanskaya ul. C-2Kharkovskaya ul. D-4Kyivskaya ul. B-4Kirillovskaya ul. E-3Kirochnaya ul. E-3Klinsky pr. B-3Kolomenskaya ul. D-3Konnogvardeisky bul. C-2Konnogvardeisky per. C-2Krasnoarmeiskaya 1-12-ya B-3Krasnogo kursanta ul. D-1Kremenchugskaya ul. D-4Kronverkskaya nab. D-2Kronverksky pr. D-2Kuibysheva ul. D-2/E-2Lermontovsky pr. B-2/B-3Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-2Ligovsky pr. B-4/C-4/C-3/D-3Liteiny pr. D-3/E-2Lomonosovskaya ul. C-2/C-3Lva Tolstogo ul. D-1/E-2Makarova nab. C-1/C-2

Mal. Moskovskaya ul. D-3Mal. Konyushennaya D-2Mal. Morskaya ul. C-2Mal. Posadskaya D-2Mal. Sadovaya D-2Maly pr. (PS) D-1Maly pr. (VO) B-1/C-1Maloy Nevky reky nab. D-1Marata ul. D-3Marsovo pole D-2Mayakovskogo ul. D-3Medikov pr. D-1/E-1Mikhailovskaya ul. D-2Millionnaya ul. D-2Mira ul. D-2Mokhovaya ul. D-2Moskovsky pr. B-3/C-3Moiky reky nab. B-2/C-2/D-2Mozhaiskaya ul. C-3Mytninskaya ul. E-3Mytninskaya nab. D-2Nekrasova ul. D-3/E-3Nevsky pr. C-2/D-2/D-3/E-4Obvodnogo kanala nab. B-3/C-3/C -4Odoevskogo ul. C-1Pavlogradsky per. C-4Pestelya ul. D-2Petrogradskaya nab. E-2Petrogradskaya ul. D-1Petrovsky pr. C- 1Pionerskaya ul. D-1Pirogovskaya nab. E-2Pochtamtskaya ul. C-2Podolskaya ul. B-3/C-3Podyezdnoy per. C-3Poltavskaya ul. D-3Pravdy ul. C-3Prilukskaya ul. C-4Prof. Ivashentsova ul. D-4/E-4Prof. Popova ul. D-1/E-1Pushkinskaya ul. D-3Radishcheva ul. E-3Razyezzhaya ul. D-3Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. B-2Robespyera nab. E-2Romenskaya ul. D-4

Rubinshteina ul. D-3Ruzovskaya ul. C-3Ryleeva ul. E-3Sadovaya ul. B-2/C-2Shpalernaya ul. D-2/E-2/E-3Shvedsky per. D-2Smolenky reky nab. B-1/C-1Smolyachkova ul. E-1Sotsialisticheskaya ul. C-3Sovetskaya 3-10ya E-3Sredny pr.(V0) B-1/C-1/C-2Stolyarny per. C-2Stremyannaya ul. D-3Suvorovsky pr. D-3/E-3Svechnoy per. D-3Synopskay nab. E-4Tavricheskaya ul. E-3Telezhnaya ul. D-4Troitsky pr. B-3Truda ul. C-2Tyushina ul. C-3Universitetskaya nab. C-2Ushakovskaya nab. E-1Vereiskaya ul. C-3Vilensky per. E-3Vladimirsky pr. D-3Volynsky per. D-2Vosstaniya ul. D-3/E-3Voznesensky pr. C-2Vyazemsky per. D-1Zagorodny pr. C-3/D-3Zakharievskogo ul. E-2/E-3Zhukovskogo ul. D-3Zodchego Rossi ul. C-3/D-3Zverinskaya ul. D-2AbbreviationsUl. – Ulitsa Pr. – ProspektPl. – PloshchadDor. – DorogaBul. – BulvarAl. – AlleaPer. – PereulokKan. – KanalNab. – NaberezhnayaBol. – BolshayaMal. – Malaya

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Simon CalderThe Independent & LBC Radio

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of gui-debooks.”

The New York Times

“Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concen-trating on both well-known and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.”

The Independent

“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.”

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