Name ______________________________________________________________________________ Period ___________

Sports/Apparel 1

THE PACKET PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVE 1 Complete FCCLA Step One. http://www.uen.org/cte/facs_cabinet/facs_cabinet10.shtml STRAND 1: Students will identify careers and products in the sports and outdoor industry

Standard 1- Identify soft goods in the sports and outdoor industry. Standard 2- Identify design and careers opportunities in the sports and outdoor industry (designer, textiles designer, fabrication, and pattern drafting).

STRAND 2: Students will be able to recognize basic sewing equipment used in sports and outdoor product development. Standard 1- Identify sewing machine parts and their function, safety, and maintenance. Standard 2- Identify sewing tools, their function, and safety procedures. Standard 3- Introduce the serger and its function.

PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVE 2 With the completion of a sports and outdoor product design, students will demonstrate competency in sewing machine use, care, and safety. STRAND 3: Students will identify and analyze the characteristics and care of specific textiles used in sports and outdoor product industry.

Standard 1- Identify basic fibers, the characteristics, use and care of each textile. Standard 2- Discuss how selection of a fabric affects project construction

PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVE 3 Create a fabric file. Identify fiber content (2 way stretch, 4 way stretch, canvas, flannel, leather, neoprene, polar fleece, rib knit, rip-stop nylon, sweatshirt fleece, vinyl), care, fabrication (woven, knit, non-woven), and intended use. STRAND 4: Students will use pattern envelope and guide sheet/ instructions for pre-construction skills at the introductory level. Standard 1- Identify the information found on the pattern envelope and pattern guide sheet.

Standard 2- Prepare pattern for layout and cutting. Standard 3- Demonstrate correct placement of pattern pieces on the fabric. Standard 4- Correctly position, pin and cut out the fabric pieces. Standard 5- Transfer the pattern markings before removing pattern pieces from fabric. Transfer fit-related and construction markings (foldlines, buttonhole and pattern markings)

PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVE 4 Construct a sports and outdoor apparel item using the correct pattern size based on body measurements and finished garment measurements. (projects could include the following: lounge pants, lounge/”joggers” pants, elastic or drawstring shorts, basic T-shirt, gators, hoodie, etc.) STRAND 5: Students will utilize basic construction skills. Standard 1- Explain and be able to demonstrate the following construction terms: basting stitch, back stitch, pivot, trimming, reinforce stitch, top stitch, right sides together. Standard 2- Examine and select correct thread for sports and outdoor projects. Standard 3- Identify and construct standard seam allowances and seam finishes. Standard 4- Press garment correctly. PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVE 5 Press as you go to complete a professional quality project. PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVE 6 Complete all of the following skills as part of the course. A minimum of 8 skills need to be included as part of an apparel or personal item project.

a. Serge seam finish b. Zigzag seam finish c. Clean finish seam finish d. Construct seam allowances as indicated on the guide sheet e. Casing (1/4” wider than elastic or draw cord) f. Patch pocket with mitered corners and reinforced top corners (triangle, horizontal, bar-tack, double row of top stitching) g. Button hole h. Attach a button with hand needle and thread i. Construct a machine stitched hem

Hand stitching (examples include: blindstitch, hemstitch, slipstitch, whipstitch, or ladder stitch

Careers in the textile industry

________________ creates original designs for the fabrics used in all sorts of

industries.

___________________ sketch, paint, and build the beginnings of the design and

put it in motion.

___________________: specifies what the company will make and market.

___________________: Responsible for the development of a balanced

marketable, profitable and timely line.

___________________: develops patterns for apparel products, using either

draping or flat pattern methods

___________________: analyze consumer tastes and show how a brand best fits

into that consumers lifestly.

____________________: things made with textiles and fabrics. Give three

examples of soft goods.

1.

2.

3.

Textiles Pre-Test

1. What does it mean when a fabric “pills”?

2. Name two positives and two negatives of cotton clothing.

3. Linen is made from the __________________________________.

4. Silk comes from the __________of the _____________________.

5. What are synthetic fibers made from?

6. Which fiber is the strongest?

7. Polyester will always absorb ________________________stains.

8. Name three synthetic fibers. 1. 2. 3. 9. What is the most popular fiber in the USA today?

10. Which fibers are the most comfortable to wear and why?

Textile Terms Fiber

Twisting or laying together fibers to form a continuous strand

Fabric

The ability to withstand pulling and twisting

Shrinkage

The ability to hold up to repeated usage

Absorbency

The ability to spring back when crushed or wrinkled

Elasticity

The ability to withstand rubbing

Luster

Natural Fibers General Characteristics: Come from _________ or _____________, absorbent, and more expensive.

Fiber Sample Major Characteristics/ History Advantages Disadvantages

Cotton

Linen

Silk

Wool

Synthetic Fibers General Characteristics: Made from ___________ compounds, heat sensitive (will _______) less to not at all _____________, and less expensive.

Fiber Sample Major Characteristics/ History Advantages Disadvantages

Rayon

Acetate

Nylon

Polyester

Acrylic

Spandex

Stains Stains set by _________ and __________.

Type of Stain Removal Techniques

Grass

Soak in cold water for at least 30 min. pre-treat if stain is still there, launder

Chocolate

Rub detergent into area or use a pre-wash stain remover and launder

Ball-point ben

Launder clothing based on ______ ___________ or end of the __________. Iron according to ____________ content.

Fabric Construction

All fabric is made from ______________, either natural or synthetic. The fiber is processed and twisted into ____________. The yarn is woven or knitted into ______________.

Weaves Weaving: Interlacing _______ or more yarns at ___________ angles. No to limited _________________ Terms Warp: Weft/Filling:

Knits Knits Characteristics Sample

Yarns are _____________ together

Medium to High ________________ Loose Knit Tight Knit

Non-Wovens Non Wovens Characteristics Sample

Material that is made without______________ or ________________.

The Felting Process: Fibers are pressed together with heat, _____________ and pressure. Best fibers to use for felting are:

Fabric File FABRIC Sample Major Characteristics

Ripstop Nylon

Nylon fabric made with a special reinforcing technique that makes it resistant to tearing and ripping.

Canvas

Extremely durable plain woven fabric

Vinyl

Non-woven plastic fabric

Leather

The skin of an animal that has been tanned and treated

Two-Way Stretch

Stretches from selvage to selvage

Four-Way Stretch

Stretches both along the lengthwise and crosswise grain

Polar Fleece

Soft napped insulation fabric made from polyester

Sweatshirt fleece

• Type of jersey fabric with plain knit stitches on the front and purl knit stitches on the back.

• Stretch factor makes it popular

Rib knit

Double knit fabric where the rib wales alternate on the face and back of the faric

Flannel

Woven fabric made of cotton where the surface has been slightly brushed creating a soft-napped fabric

Neoprene

Soft, flexible and durable synthetic sponge rubber that is water resistant and stretchable

Denim

Twill weave made of single hard-twisted yarns with colored warp and white or undyed fill

Calico

• Traditionally referred to a plain-weave cotton cloth originating in Calicut, India

• Today most often applied to a cotton or cotton/polyester fabric roller-printed with small-scale design, usually floral

Satin

• Recognized by its smooth, lustrous surface and woven with long floating yarns in the warp.

• Silk, polyester, acetate and rayon are common fabrications

Single Knit

• Plain stitches on the face of the fabric and purl stitches on the back

• Can be lightweight to heavy, and made in a variety of fibers-wool, cotton, silk, nylon, or blends

Felt

• Non-woven fabric that comes in varying qualities • Wool variety is made by using heat, moisture and agitation,

but can also be made by pounding and compressing cotton, polyester or rayon fibers.

Sewing Lab Rules 1. Each student is responsible to watch and be quiet during all demonstrations. 2. Each student must be seated at your machine and work for the full class period. 3. Do not vandalize or misuse the sewing machines or equipment. 4. Immediately report any repairs or problems with your machine/equipment. 5. No food or drink is allowed in the lab. 6. Students are not allowed to use supplies without permission. 7. Projects are not allowed to be completed at home without permission. 8. All students are responsible for completing their own work/projects. 9. No sewing is allowed after the 5-minute bell. Put personal supplies away, clean up all thread and scraps from the floor and counters, and return all supplies / equipment to their appropriate locations. 10. Do not leave until the teacher excuses you. The teacher will excuse you when the lab is clean. By signing below, I understand and will comply with the sewing lab rules. I

also understand that failure to do so will result in lost lab privileges.

Signed: __________________________________________________

Sewing Machine Parts How a Stitch is Formed: The _____________ and lower thread __________________ as the needle passes through the fabric.

Needles

The most commonly used needles are: a. __________________: best used on knit

fabrics, does not stitch a straight line (more apt to stretch with knit)

b. __________________: best used on woven fabrics, best for tasks needing straight lines (like topstitching)

c. __________________: can be used on both woven and knit fabrics (sharp, yet slightly rounded)

Resolving Sewing Machine Malfunctions

Most sewing machine problems result from ________________ threading and/or poor quality ______________. Use ______-_______________ on most projects. If things such as ___________ _________, dull/broken needle, or incorrect stitch formation happen, here are possible reasons why.

If the upper thread breaks: *The needle is blunt (not sharp).

*The upper thread tension is too tight (check seams-if they are puckered it’s too tight!)

If the lower thread breaks: *The lower thread tension is too tight. *The bobbin is jammed. *The needle is blunt or bent.

If you have skipped stitches, looped thread or the fabric snags: *The needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly inserted. *The needle being used is not appropriate for the fabric. *Tension is off *Improper threading

If your needle breaks: *The needle clamp screw is not tight enough. *The thread being used is of poor quality. *The fabric is being pulled while needle is still inserted.

If your machine fails to run or is noisy, perhaps: *Needle is blunt or bent *Threaded wrong *Machine needs to be oiled/cleaned (follow machine manual)

Sewing Tools & Equipment

Seam Ripper

Holds layers of fabric together for cutting and sewing

Shears/Scissors

Mat: Used to protect tabletops from being cut by blades Rotary Cutter: Cuts fabric quickly and accurately

Seam Gauge

Flexible tool used to take body measurements and measure long distances

Iron

A cloth placed between the iron and fabric to protect fabric from scorching and/or shine marks

Marking Tools

Used with rotary cutters to get accurate measurements and straight cuts.

Sewing Terms 1.

The patterned side of fabric that will be showing when you are done sewing your project. Sometimes called the “Pretty Side”.

2. The back side of fabric that will be on the inside of the project you are sewing. Sometimes called the “Ugly Side”.

3. To stitch a short distance (2-3 stitches) to reinforce and secure stitching. Use at the beginning and end of a seam.

4. Long, temporary stitches used to hold pieces of fabric together.

5. A sewn slash in a garment used with a button as a fastener.

6. Formula for measuring the correct length of a buttonhole:

Button Diameter + Button Depth

7. A tunnel through which elastic or cording is threaded.

8. Formula for measuring the correct width of a casing: Elastic/Cording Width + 1/4” + S.A.

9. To cut of part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

10.

At the end of a stitching line, leaving the needle down in the fabric, lifting the presser foot, turning or pivoting the fabric. After lowering the presser foot, the stitching will continue in a different direction.

1 1.

A smaller length or an extra row of stitching that makes a seam stronger. Usually about 12-14 stitches per inch and used in places like crotches, corners, or armholes.

12.

A row of stitches visible on the right side of a garment. Typically parallel to an edge or a seam. It is used to anchor layers of fabric together and/or create an accent edge as a finishing detail..

13. Applied to the raw fabric edges to prevent raveling/fraying. It improves product quality and durability.

14. A type of seam finish where the raw edge of any fabric is folded under ¼” toward the wrong side of fabric.

15. The distance between the cut edge of the fabric and the stitch line.

Seam Allowance Practice 1. Identify the correct measurements on the ruler below. Rememer to simplify the fractions!

A: ______ in E: ______ in

B: ______ in F: ______ in

C: ______ in G: ______ in

D: ______ in H: ______ in

2. Using a RED colored pencil, draw in the slider on the specified measurement for each seam gauge below:

Draw the slider at 1/4” on the seam gauge.

Draw the slider at 5/8“on the seam gauge.

Draw the slider at 3 1/8“on the seam gauge. 3. Draw a colored line along the guideline on the stitch plate for the following measurements:

1/8” = Brown 1/4” = Purple 1/2” = Red 3/4" = Blue 7/8” = Green

1” = Orange

Sergers

1. Some advantages of using a serger include: d. _________ off excess fabric as it sews. e. ________________ way of finishing a seam.

2. The three rules of serging are: a. _______________________________________________ b. _______________________________________________ c. _______________________________________________

3. Do not lift up the presser foot unless you are serging around a round edge. Make sure the presser foot is _____________ before beginning to serge.

4. Do not serge over _________, _____________or excessive ___________.

5. _______________________ is finer in size and must be good quality to prevent thread breakage and lint accumulation.

Pressing

What is the #1 rule when pressing? Temperature Settings: Use the correct temperature for fabric/fiber content.

o High: ___________________ & ____________________ o Medium: ____________________ & __________________ o Low: __________________ (extremely heat sensitive and can be damaged by high heat)

____________________ water is used in irons to create steam. Fabrics like ______________ & _______________ benefit from using steam. Some fabrics will ______________ ______________ so be careful! ___________________ _______________: Cloth used between fabric and iron to protect fabric from scorching, prevent the heat from creating a “shine” or iron mark on the fabric, and protect the iron from fabric residue.

Ironing Pressing

Buttonhole Practice Calculate the length of each of the buttonholes below. You may use a seam gauge, ruler or measuring tape, but not a calculator.

A

C

B

D

F E

G

H

Fabric Grains

Grainlines in woven fabric are important to understand because they can affect the final outcome of your project. Grainlines can affect the stretch and fit of clothing and the lining

up of printed designs. The direction of the grainline arrow will show you how to place your pattern pieces.

A & D: ________________These edges will ravel and fray. They are the edges that are cut by the fabric attendant at the store.

B: ____________________This edge is created when the two selvage edges are folded together. The fold is the opposite side of the selvage edges.

C: ____________________This is smooth edge of woven fabrics. The selvage edge runs parallel to the straight of grain/lengthwise grain. It is a really tight weave so it won’t ravel or fray.

E: ____________________This grain of the fabric is a 45 degree (diagonal) angel from the straight of grain/lengthwise grain and the cross grain. The true bias direction has the most stretch in woven fabrics.

F: ____________________This symbol is used to indicate there is a fold in the fabric. The fold is on the opposite side of the selvage edges. See “B”.

G: ____________________This grain runs parallel to the selvage edge. This direction of the fabric is usually the strongest, stiffest, and the least likely to stretch. The lengthwise grain should be placed vertically on each garment piece.

H: ____________________This grain is perpendicular to the straight of grain/lengthwise grain and the selvage edges. The cross grain usually is less stiff, less strong and slightly more stretchy than the straight of grain/lengthwise grain.

Pattern Symbols Pattern symbols should be transferred from the paper pattern piece to the fabric AFTER the fabric has been cut out, but BEFORE the paper pattern is removed from the fabric.

1. Arrowed line indicating how to place the pattern piece on the material. This will run PARALLEL to the selvage.

2. An arrow with bent corners to indicate pattern must be placed and cut on a folded edge of fabric. The fold itself is never cut.

3. Diamond shaped symbols that extend beyond the cutting line on a pattern. They are used to match up pattern pieces.

4. Used to match up pattern pieces. Double and triple notches usually symbolize the front and back of a pattern piece.

5. Folds sewn into fabric to help provide a three-dimensional shape to a garment.

6. A small fastener usually made of plastic. It is most commonly used in clothing.

7. A sewn slash in a garment used with a button as a fastener.

8. Symbols most commonly used for placing sleeves, pockets or decorations.

9. A double solid line running across a pattern piece that is the recommended area to lengthen or shorten a pattern piece.

How to Measure To make a garment that fits properly you must begin by selecting the correct pattern size. Taking accurate body measurements is the first step in determining which size pattern is best for you.

1. Bust: Measure over the fullest point of the bust, under the arms and around the widest part of the back.

2. Waistline: Take a firm measurement around the natural waist indentation.

3. Hip: Measure around the fullest part of the hip, about 7 to 9 inches down from the natural waistline.

4. Back Waist Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of the neck, down the spine to the bottom edge of the waist.

5. Arm Length: With arm bent, measure from the outermost point of the shoulder down to the wrist.

Personal Body Measurements Individually, or with a partner, take each of your personal measurements listed and record

them below. UPPER BODY

High Bust (Chest) Full Bust

LOWER BODY Waist Hip

How To Read A Pattern

Reading the Pattern Envelope Use the pattern your teacher will give you to answer the questions below.

Use the BACK OF THE ENVELOPE for the Following Questions:

1. What is the pattern number?

2. Which pattern company does the pattern come from? (What is the “Brand Name”?) 3. What view/letter are you making? (If you are using fabric from Ms. Oney, you are making the shorts). 4 According to your body measurements, what size should you make for your view letter?

-Pajamas #?_____________ -Are you a combination of sizes? __________ -If so, what size should you make? ___________ 5. What is the size range that the pattern offers? 6. Based on your measurements/size, how much material do you need to buy for your view letter? - 45” wide: ______________ 60” wide: ____________ 7. List THREE suggested fabrics you could use for this project:

8. Is additional fabric needed for matching plaids, stripes or one-way fabrics? 9. What notions are required to complete this project? 10. Do you need any elastic? If so, what width and how much? 11. If needed, how much and what kind of Interfacing do you need? _____________________ 12. What are the finished garment measurements for your size? (If available) Pants Side Length _____________ Pants Leg Width ______________ Hip ____________

Use the GUIDE SHEET for the Following Questions:

13. What size seam allowance does the pattern call for? 14. Copy a picture of the FABRIC KEY below. Then, explain what this diagram shows you. Draw a copy of the following pattern markings and explain what they mean: 15. Fold:

16. Notches:

17. Straight of Grain:

18. Cutting Lines:

19. List the numbers of all pattern pieces you will need to use for your view letter:

Preparing Fabric and Patterns to be Cut

1. ________________________________ • Fabrics with high cotton content will shrink after its first laundering. • Wash and dry the fabric as you normally would to pre-shrink the fabric before cutting out any pattern

pieces.

2. ________________________________ • After the fabric is dry, you will need to refold, press and straighten the grainlines. • Press the fabric WRONG sides together with SELVAGES touching.

3. _______________________________ • Some fabrics are considered one-way, or directional, because of the pattern. • All pattern pieces must be placed going in the same direction.

4. ________________________________ • Other directional fabrics include those with a nap. • Nap: soft and fuzzy surface on fabric created by raised, short fiber ends. (Ex: velvet, corduroy,

etc.)

5. ________________________________ • Place pattern pieces on fabric according to the grainlines. • Pay close attention to pattern symbols, like place-on-fold, and how many pieces of fabric should be cut

from each pattern piece.

6. ________________________________ • Pin one end of the grainline and measure the distance from the pinned side of the grainline to the

selvage. • Then measure the other end of the grainline to the selvage. • The two measurements should be the same. Pin the pattern in place.

7. ________________________________ • When pinning pattern pieces to fabric in order to cut them out be sure to pin INSIDE the cutting line. • Don’t use too many pins. Space them out enough to prevent bunching, but close enough to keep the

pattern in place.

8. ________________________________ • Double check your pinning and grainlines before you begin cutting. • Measure twice, cut once!

9. ________________________________ • Use the proper cutting equipment. Sharp fabric shears are best for cutting around pattern pieces. • Keep the fabric as flat as possible when cutting around pieces. Do not lift fabric in the air. • Remember to cut OUT and AROUND notches!

10. _________________________________ • Transfer any pattern markings and symbols to the fabric AFTER the pattern pieces have been cut out,

but BEFORE the patterns are unpinned and removed.

11. __________________________________ • When pinning fabric together in order to sew them, pin perpendicular to where the seam line will be. • The pinhead should be sticking out away from the fabric by about 1/4”-1/2” for easy removal while

sewing.