Spinning and Yarn Count

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    Fabric Science

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    RING-SPINNING:

    A system of spinning using a ring-and-traveler take upwherein the drafting of the roving and twisting andwinding of the yarn onto the bobbin proceedsimultaneously and continuously.

    Ring frames are suitable for spinning all counts up to150s, and they usually give a stronger yarn and are more

    productive than earlier spinning frames.

    Ring: The device that carries the traveler up and down thepackage in ring spinning.

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    RING-SPINNING:

    The latest innovation in ring spinning involves the use of arevolving ring to increase productivity. Revolving spinningring is a driven ring that rotates in the direction of the

    traveler on a ring spinning frame. Since both the ring andthe yarn package turn when this ring system is used,

    productivity is increased.

    Ring spinning equipment is also widely used to take-upmanufactured filament yarns and insert producer-twist atextrusion.

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    FRICTION SPINNING:

    A spinning system in which the yarn receives its twist bybeing rolled along the longitudinal axis in the nip betweentwo revolving surfaces.

    The surfaces may rotate at the same or different speeds inthe same or opposite directions depending on the particularmachine design.

    Potential advantages include high production capacity, lowstress on the fiber in processing, and the capacity to

    produce very fine counts.

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    CORE SPINNING:

    It consists of feeding the core yarn (an elastomeric filamentyarn, a regular filament yarn, a textured yarn, or a

    previously spun yarn) into the front delivery roll of the

    spinning frame and of covering the core yarn with a sheathof fibers during the spinning operation.

    CORE-SPUN YARN: A yarn made by twisting fibersaround a filament or a previously spun yarn, thusconcealing the core.

    Core yarns are used in sewing thread, blankets, and socksand also to obtain novelty effects in fabrics.

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    YARN NUMBER:

    Yarn number is a relative measure of the

    fineness of yarns.

    Two classes of systems are in use:

    (1) Direct yarn number (equal to linear

    density)

    (2) Indirect yarn number (equal to the

    reciprocal of linear density)

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    (1) Direct yarn number (equal to linear density):

    Is the mass per unit length of yarn.

    This system is used for silk and manufacturedfilament yarns.

    (2) Indirect yarn number (equal to the reciprocalof linear density)

    Is the length per unit mass of yarn. This system is used for cotton, linen, and wool-

    type spun yarns.

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    COTTON COUNT:

    The yarn numbering system based on length and weightoriginally used for cotton yarns and now employed formost staple yarns spun on the cotton, or short-staple,

    system.

    It is based on a unit length of 840 yards, and the count ofthe yarn is equal to the number of 840-yard skeins requiredto weigh 1 pound.

    Under this system, the higher the number, the finer theyarn.

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    FILAMENT: A fiber of an indefinite or

    extreme length such as found naturally in

    silk. Manufactured fibers are extruded into

    filaments that are converted into filament

    yarn, staple, or tow.

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    FILAMENT YARN: A yarn composed of continuous filamentsassembled with or without twist.

    Filament Yarn: In the spinning of manufactured filaments, fiber-forming substances in the

    plastic or molten state, or in solution, are forced through the fineorifices in a metallic plate called

    a spinneret, or jet, at a controlled rate. The solidified filaments aredrawn-off by rotating rolls, or

    godets, and wound onto bobbins or pirns.

    (Also see YARN.)

    PRODUCER-TEXTURED YARNS: Continuous filament yarns thathave been bulked during

    manufacturing by the fiber producer. (Also see TEXTURING.)

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    Yarn SizeYarn number

    spun yarn size is referred to as count or number and is expressed in terms of length per unit of weight. Weaving

    yarns and sewing thread are numbered by the cotton system. It is an indirect system, the finer the yarn, thelarger the number. The count is based on the number of hanks(1hank is 840 yards) in 1pound of yarn.

    Number or count of spun yarn Hanks weight (pounds)

    No. 1 1(840 yards) 1

    No.2 2(1,680 yards) 1

    No.3 3(2,520 yards) 1

    The woolen and worsted systems are similar to the cotton system except that hanks are of different length.

    DenierThe size of filament yarns is expressed in terms of weight per unit of length. In this system the unit of length

    remains constant. The numbering system is direct because the finer the yarn, the smaller the number.

    Filament Yarn Size

    1 denier 9,000 meters weighs 1 gram

    2 denier 9,000 meters weighs 2 gram

    3denier 9,000 meters weighs 3 gram

    Tex systemThe International Organizational for Standardization had adopted the Tex system, which determines yarn count

    or number in the same way for all fibre yarn and uses metric system.

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    METRIC COUNT: The number of kilometersper kilogram of yarn.

    WORSTED COUNT: A woolen yarn measure. A

    1s worsted yarn has 560 yards in one pound of yarn.

    WOOLEN COUNT: The two systems used todetermine woolen yarn counts in the U.S. are the

    run system and the cut system. The run system hasa standard of 1600 yards per hand, while the

    cut system is based on 300 yards per hank.

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    WOOLEN CUT: A woolen yarn measure. A 1-

    cut woolen yarn has 300 yards in one pound of

    yarn. WOOLEN RUN: A woolen yarn measure. A 1-

    run woolen yarn has 1,600 yards in one pound

    of yarn, a 2-run yarn has 3,200 yards, and so on.