1

Armin Leder

A reduced spinning process with the option of handling a higher non-lint content

Cotton Conference, Bremen March 2018

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Yarn manufacturing costs

Brazil China Egypt India Indo Italy Korea Turkey USA Vietnam AverageInterest 0,17 0,05 0,06 0,10 0,07 0,02 0,03 0,06 0,05 0,06 0,07Depreciation 0,14 0,14 0,10 0,12 0,10 0,21 0,15 0,12 0,18 0,08 0,13Auxillary Material 0,06 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,06 0,05 0,05 0,05Power 0,13 0,17 0,08 0,13 0,12 0,23 0,14 0,11 0,08 0,10 0,13Labor 0,02 0,02 0,02 0,01 0,01 0,17 0,09 0,04 0,12 0,01 0,05Waste 0,11 0,04 0,19 0,10 0,11 0,10 0,11 0,11 0,09 0,10 0,11Material 1,47 1,84 2,56 1,33 1,40 1,38 1,43 1,52 1,24 1,40 1,55

$0,00

$0,50

$1,00

$1,50

$2,00

$2,50

$3,00

$3,50

ITMF International Production Cost Comparison for Rotor Ne20 [USD/kg]

Material Waste Labor Power Auxillary Material Depreciation Interest

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Material costs

Cotton 1.55 $/kg

Comber noil 1.00 $/kg

Flat Strips 0.80 $/kg

Lickerin waste 0.60 $/kg

How much waste can be added without

noticeably losing yarn quality?

Problem: Short fibers can not be drafted without causing defects in the yarn.

Challenge for yarn spinner

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Four spinning/yarn processes

classic ring spinning

compact ring spinning

OpenEnd spinning

Airjet spinning

© Rieter

Question: Which yarn process requires the lowest draft?

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(Compact) Ring Spinning process

Yarn fineness is produced by a drafting process carried out in stages. Increase of short fiber content creates more and more defects in the yarn

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OpenEnd spinning process

• OE Spinning process completely opens the sliver structure coming from card or draw frame

• Yarn production with virtually no drafting • In addition, dirt (non-lint) is excreted in this spinning

process very insensitive when using short fibers

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Vortex Spinning process

Yarn fineness is produced by a drafting process carried out in stages. Increase of short fiber content creates more and more defects in the yarn

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Trial setup Virgin cotton Waste/comber noil

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Trial setup

Cotton (Central Asia) 100% 70% 50% 30% Comber noil 30% 50% 70% 100%

Micronaire 3.9 3.7 3.5 3.3 3.1

UHML HVI mm 27.4 24.7 23.0 21.1 18.4

SFC < 12.7mm (w) % 7.7 23.1 33.4 43.7 59.2

Neps AFIS-N 1/g 434 542 614 687 795

Trash Content Shirley % 2.1 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.1

Material cost ($/kg) 1.55 1.39 1.27 1.17 1.00

2 Draw Frame Passages

1 Draw Frame Passage

Short Process

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Drafting system of a Trützschler draw frame

• Draw frames dublicate and parallelize the fiber material (using high draft 6 to 8)

• Clamping distance cannot be reduced to such an extent that fibers of 20mm and shorter can be streched controlled with high draft

• Low draft make no sense due to doubling

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IDF 2, Trützschler

• Material flow from top to bottom

• Measuring funnel instead of measuring rollers short clamping distance

The applied draft in IDF 2 is just so big that the short-wave sliver defects from the card can be corrected. Corresponding to these boundary conditions, it should be possible to produce an optimal sliver for OpenEnd spinning, with which even high short fiber fractions can be processed to a good yarn quality.

12

Results Sliver quality

Sliver coefficient of variation (Uster CVm%]:

0,00

1,00

2,00

3,00

4,00

5,00

6,00

100% Cotton 70% Cotton30% Comber noil

50% Cotton50% Comber noil

30% Cotton70% Comber noil

100% Comber noil

Ust

er C

Vm%

IDF 2TD 8 onlyTD 7 + TD 8

Share of Noil

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Results 100% Cotton – Yarn Quality

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

0 10 20 30 40 50

Brea

king

tena

city

[cN

/tex]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Yarn Strength

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

0 10 20 30 40 50

Nep

s [1

/100

0m]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Neps

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

900

0 10 20 30 40 50

IPI t

otal

[1/1

000m

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Total IPI

0

0,4

0,8

1,2

1,6

2

2,4

2,8

3,2

3,6

4

0 10 20 30 40 50

Yarn

cou

nt v

aria

tion

[CV 1

0m%

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Yarn count variation

14

Results 70% Cotton/30% Comber noil – Yarn Quality

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

0 10 20 30 40 50

Brea

king

tena

city

[cN

/tex]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Yarn Strength

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

0 10 20 30 40 50

Nep

s [1

/100

0m]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Neps

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

0 10 20 30 40 50

IPI t

otal

[1/1

000m

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Total IPI

0

0,4

0,8

1,2

1,6

2

2,4

2,8

3,2

3,6

4

0 10 20 30 40 50

Yarn

cou

nt v

aria

tion

[CV 1

0m%

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

2 Draw Frame passages

Yarn count variation

15

Results 50% Cotton/50% Comber noil – Yarn Quality

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

0 10 20 30 40 50

Brea

king

tena

city

[cN

/tex]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 22 Draw Frame passages1 Draw Frame passage

Yarn Strength

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

0 10 20 30 40 50

Nep

s [1

/100

0m]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 22 Draw Frame passages1 Draw Frame passage

Neps

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

0 10 20 30 40 50

IPI t

otal

[1/1

000m

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 22 Draw Frame passages1 Draw Frame passages

Total IPI

0

0,4

0,8

1,2

1,6

2

2,4

2,8

3,2

3,6

4

0 10 20 30 40 50

Yarn

cou

nt v

aria

tion

[CV 1

0m%

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 22 Draw Frame passages1 Draw Frame passage

Yarn count variation

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Results 30% Cotton/70% Comber noil – Yarn Quality

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

0 10 20 30 40 50

Brea

king

tena

city

[cN

/tex]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 21 Draw Frame passage

Yarn Strength

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

0 10 20 30 40 50

Nep

s [1

/100

0m]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 21 Draw Frame passage

Neps

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

0 10 20 30 40

IPI t

otal

[1/1

000m

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

1 Draw Frame passages

Total IPI

0

0,4

0,8

1,2

1,6

2

2,4

2,8

3,2

3,6

4

0 10 20 30 40 50

Yarn

cou

nt v

aria

tion

[CV 1

0m%

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

1 Draw Frame passage

Yarn count variation

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Results 100% Comber noil – Yarn Quality

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

0 10 20 30 40 50

Brea

king

tena

city

[cN

/tex]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

Yarn Strength

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

0 10 20 30 40 50

Nep

s [1

/100

0m]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

Neps

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

0 10 20 30 40

IPI t

otal

[1/1

000m

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

Total IPI

0

0,4

0,8

1,2

1,6

2

2,4

2,8

3,2

3,6

4

0 10 20 30 40 50

Yarn

cou

nt v

aria

tion

[CV 1

0m%

]

OE - Yarn count [Ne]

IDF 2

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Conclusion

• For the OpenEnd spinning process there is now a perfect preparation process through an integrated draw frame (IDF 2) into the card (TC 15, TC 10) with minimal draft.

• This process enables very good yarn values to be produced with a high proportion of short-fiber and foreign matter contaminated fiber material.

there is no reason to use conventional draw frames with doubling anymore to produce OpenEnd cotton yarn.

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Questions?