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Why Go? Pounding westerlies, barren seascapes and the ragged spires of Torres del Paine – this is the distilled essence of Patagonia.The provinces of Magallanes and Última Esperanza boast a frontier appeal perhaps only matched by the deep Amazon and remote Alaska. Long before humans arrived on the con-tinent, glaciers chiseled and carved these fi ne landscapes. Now it’s a place for travelers to hatch their greatest adven-tures, whether hiking through rugged landscapes, seeing penguins by the thousands or horseback riding across the steppe.
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is the region’s star at-traction. Among the fi nest parks on the continent, it attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year, even some towing wheeled luggage (though we don’t recommend it). Throughout the region, it’s easy and worthwhile to travel between Argentina and Chile. Included in this chapter are the highlights of Argentine Patagonia.
When to Go
Dec–Feb Warmest months, ideal for estancia (grazing ranch) visits and back-packing.
Mid-Oct–early Mar Coastal fauna, including penguins and marine birds, abounds.
Mar–Apr Blasting summer winds start to die down and brilliant fall colors come in.
Rainfall inches/mm
0
10/250
4/100
6/150
8/200
2/50
10/50
0/32
-10/14
30/86
20/68
F DNOSAJJMAMJ
Punta Arenas°C/°F Temp
Southern PatagoniaMagallanes ................... 341Punta Arenas ................ 341Última Esperanza ..........351Puerto Natales ............. 352Parque Nacional Torres del Paine ............359Argentine Patagonia ..................... 367El Calafate .................... 367Perito Moreno & Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) ......... 372El Chaltén & Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) ......... 374
Best Places to Eat » Afrigonia (p 356 ) » La Marmita (p 347 ) » Remezón (p 347 ) » La Tablita (p 371 ) » La Mesita Grande (p 356 )
Best Places to Stay
» Ilaia Hotel (p 345 ) » The Singular Hotel (p 353 ) » Hotel IF Patagonia (p 353 ) » Tierra Patagonia (p 366 ) » Refugio Grey (p 365 )
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
SOUTH
ERN PATAGO
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SOUTH
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SOUTH
ERN PATAGO
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340
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InútilBahía
OtwaySeno
Seno Skyring
GrandeBahía
OCEAN
PACIFIC
Mag
ella
n
Stra
it of
Río Santa Cruz
Strait of Magellan
XIIRegión Santa Cruz
CalafateEl
SebastiánSan
Puerto Hambre
PUNTA ARENAS
CastilloVilla Cerro
GALLEGOSRÍO
Bella Vista
RubensRío
Río Turbio
Tres Lagos
Esperanza
Río Verde
Camerón
OnaisínPorvenir
SombreroCerro
TeheulchesVilla
El Chaltén
Villa Dorotea
CóndorEstancia
Fuerte Bulnes
CarreraCancha
MilodónCueva del
PatagoniaHistoriaParque
Francisco ColoaneParque Marino
Monte LéonNacionalParque
Los Glaciares
AlacalufesNacionalReserva
AlacalufesNacional
Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional
PingüinosNatural LosMonumento
OtwayPingüinera
MagellanesForestalReserva
NacionalParque
O'HigginsBernardoNacionalParque
O'HigginsBernardoNacionalParque
Reserva
(2035m)Balmaceda
Cerro
se
dn
As
ol
ed
ar
el
li
dr
oC
50ºS
52ºS
54ºS
70ºW72ºW74ºW
50ºS
52ºS
54ºS
72ºW74ºW76ºW
EsperanzaSeno Última
BlancaLaguna
ArgentinoLago
ViedmaLago
IIICarlos
Isla
NoirIsla
MonttIsla
HanoverIsla
de YorkIsla Duque
DesolaciónIsla
InésSantaIsla
ClarenceIsla
AracenaCapitan
Isla
Tierra del FuegoIsla Grande de
RennellIslas
RiescoIsla
DawsonIsla
niwraDarellidroC
FrowardCabo
BrunswickPenínsula
GameroMuñoz
Pennínsula
ttnoM
otreuPot
yrreF
ARGENTINA
AymondMonte
SutivanRancho
RN
RN
RP
RP
RP
RP
RN
RN
255
340
288
9
9
2
5
9
40
40
SoundSkyring
Fitz Roy Range
MagdalenaIsla
Glaciar PeritoMoreno
NatalesPuerto
Pali AikeNacional
Parque
Torres del PaineParque Nacional
60 miles0100 km0
�1 Discover the remote backside of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (p 359 )
�2 Join the march of the penguins on Isla Magdalena (p 349 )
�3 Hike the under the toothy Fitz Roy Range (p 374 ) near El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital
�4 Ride the range and trade fi reside yarns at a working estancia (grazing ranch) at Skyring Sound (p 350 )
�5 Enjoy a local microbrew, massage and lovely meals in Puerto Natales (p 352 ) after time in Torres del Paine
�6 Explore the gnarled volcanic steppe of the little-known Parque Nacional Pali Aike (p 351 )
�7 Ice-trek the cool blue contours of 15-story Glaciar Perito Moreno (p 373 ) in Argentina
Southern Patagonia Highlights