RUFFLES AND RUCHES - The Knitting Guild Association

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STITCH ANATOMY

RUFFLESAND

RUCHESBY LESLIE GONZALEZ

As with all articles in the Stitch Anatomy Series, the lesson discusses the stitch pattern in detail, any potential problems in working it, and tips for improving the appearance. For those interested, a pattern for a pillow using the stitch pattern follows. The pattern outlines the steps involved in designing with the stitch pattern. Also included is information for anyone who wants to try designing a similar pillow on their own using different yarns, a different pillow size or a variation of the pattern.

ABOUT RUFFLES AND RUCHESRuffles and ruches use similar methods to gather fabric, creating ripples. They are easy and fun embellishments that add flair and panache to knitted items.

Ruffled and ruched fabrics are created when fabric size drastically changes. The change is immediate causing the fabric to gather and undulate. Both can be created by changing the stitch count or by changing the gauge. The undulation can be subtle or have drastic ripples depending on how much the fabric expands.

RUFFLESRuffled fabric expands from a narrow set of stitches to a wider set of stitches. Ruffles can be free or placed as an edging on a piece of knitted work. If free, both edges ripple with the narrow base worked central to two wider edges. If used as an edging, the narrow side is anchored and the wide edge is free, allowing the ruffle to flounce. Ruffles can vary in length, undulation and stiffness.

There are three ways to work a ruffle. Increases and decreases can be used to create a wide to

narrow piece. Short rows can be worked to add extra fabric and widen one side of the piece. Larger needles can be used to amplify stitches and widen one side of the piece.

Ruffles can be used alone or unanchored to a base piece. Ruffles can also be used to embellish other fabrics. They can be used in place of collars, worked on cuffs and placed at the bottom of a garment. They can be applied as edgings.

A welt can be used to support the ruffle and accentuate the flounce. When both edges are unanchored, the ruffle twists on itself. This method is often used to create frilly accent scarves.

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Ruffles can be organized or haphazard. Organized ruffles use alternating knit and purl stitches to structure the flounce. The change between stitch types produces stripes of stitches perpendicular to the base or narrow edge. This can be done by alternating stockinette stitch with reverse stockinette if the ruffle is worked using short rows, or by using a multi-stitch rib pattern if the ruffle is worked in rows.

Ruffles worked without alternating stitches undulate at will and without a designated arrangement. Other stitch patterns such as lace, simple one-over-one cables, and seed stitch can be used to embellish the ruffle.

Types of RufflesSimple Ruffles expand from a narrow edge to a wider edge. Rows or rounds of evenly spaced increases are worked in sequentially causing the fabric to flounce. These ruffles can also be worked in reverse by decreasing, working from the widest part of the ruffle toward the base.

The amount of undulation will depend on how many increases or decreases are made and how frequently the increase or decrease rows are worked. The ruffle can emanate from live or picked up stitches or can be made and then attached to the base fabric. Typically the wide end of the ruffled edge contains three to four times the number of stitches as the narrow end. Swatch 1 shows a simple increased ruffle while Lesson Pillow 2 has simple decreased ruffles.

Double Ruffles can be made by working two single ruffles and joining them at the narrow edge. If working outward, use a provisional cast on and then combine using a three needle bind off or knit the stitches together and attach to the base fabric. The ruffles can be cast on and worked from the wider edge to the narrow edge and then knit together or bound off. One ruffle can be longer than the other or they can be the same. Swatch 2 shows two simple ruffles layered to create a double ruffle. The ruffles were

worked from the wide to narrow side and the base fabrics were knit together to join the ruffle.

Short Row Ruffles use the short row technique of working partial rows. The short rows create extra fabric that puckers into the ruffle. The fabric can be ruffled along one or both sides. This ruffle can be worked free, or it can be worked as an edging along another knitted piece. Short row ruffles do not require the use of a wrap and turn. Swatch 3 shows a loose short row Garter stitch ruffle while Lesson Pillow 1 uses an organized short row ruffle. Both examples employ a welt to support the ruffle.

Frills are made by casting on a large amount of stitches and then immediately decreasing. This creates a small ruffle at the cast on edge. Swatch 4 shows a simple frill. Four times the needed stitches were cast on. Row 1 decreased the number by half and then that number was decreased by half again on row 2.

Pleated Ruffles are worked in ribbing with large stitch counts. There is a right and wrong side to this ruffle. On the right side the knit stitches outnumber the purl stitches. The purls create ditches between the knit stitches. Once the ruffle length is reached, the ditches are enhanced by cabling and decreasing at the same time. Swatch 5 shows a pleated ruffle.

Re-gauged Ruffles are made by changing the size of the needle in addition to adding increases. Using larger needles will create a wider and looser fabric. A thicker yarn can also be used, adding to the size of the fabric.

MATERIALSYarn For the ruffles mentioned above, any yarn can be used. The yarn should complement the base fabric of the project. Because the fabric expands, extra yarn may be necessary. Light, bright colors will show any textured patterns worked in the ruffle, otherwise any color can be used. Using a different yarn than the main piece will highlight and provide embellishment. A lighter weight yarn in the same or different color creates a drape different than the main piece and accentuates the ruffle. Other fibers can also be used. Mohair is often used to create a delicate decorative ruffle.

Special yarns are available which are made to ruffle when knitted. These yarns come with specific directions where and how to place the needles, and how to form the stitches. Carefully read the directions as to size and type of needles to use. These yarns create lovely ruffled scarves. There are several types, each with a myriad of variations:

Fine mesh: These are made of fine threads woven or machine knit into a wide, stretchy gauze-like ribbon. They are worked by inserting the needle along one side of the mesh.

Large net: These are similar to the fine mesh. They are strips of netting with large openings.

Track edge: These are mesh ribbons with a solid edge. Evenly spaced holes are punched along the edge to accommodate the needle.

SWATCH 1

SWATCH 2

SWATCH 3

STITCH ANATOMY

SWATCH 4

SWATCH 5

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Fabric ribbon: This is a wide sewing ribbon with holes punched in it to accommodate knitting needles. Swatch 6 shows a ruffle using a large net yarn with track edging.

NeedlesNeedles should be of appropriate size for the yarn. Needles will progress or change in size when working a re-gauged ruffle. Don’t choose needles that work the fabric too tightly as this will prevent the ruffle from flouncing.

RUCHESA ruche, pronounced “ro-oSH, is a ruffle made within a piece of knitted fabric. While a ruffle has at least one free side, a ruche has both sides anchored to the base fabric. Ruches can be used in a linear stripe or used to draw the fabric in tight circles. Ruches can be worked in the same stitch pattern as the base fabric or a different fabric can be substituted. A popular theme is to work the base fabric in garter stitch and the ruched section in stockinette. This further delineates the two sections.

Types of RuchesIncreased Ruches, as the name implies, are made by working a row of increases to create a wider fabric. The work is then continued for a desired length. Then a decrease row brings the fabric back to its original size. The wider fabric will gather and crinkle to fit between the narrower fabrics before and after. Lesson Pillow

1 is created by using increased ruches. Swatch 7 shows an increased ruche. The lower section is worked in Garter and Stockinette, the upper section is worked in Stockinette alone. Re-gauged Ruches are worked by changing needles. The ruched section of the fabric is created by working on larger needles. Thicker yarn can also be substituted to change the gauge of the work. By working fewer stitches to the inch but maintaining the same stitch count, wider fabric is created. Once the desired length for the ruche is worked, the knitter continues using the smaller, original needles. The wider fabric will gather and crinkle to fit between the narrower fabrics before and after. Re-gauged ruches can be enhanced by adding increases. Swatch 8 is an example. The lower section is worked in Garter and Stockinette, the upper section is worked in stockinette alone. No extra stitches were added to the ruches on this swatch.

MaterialsYarn Smooth yarn will show the texture best, but ruching can be done with most yarns. As with all textured fabric, light and bright colors will show the ruched fabric. Because the fabric expands, extra yarn may be necessary.

Needles Needles should be of appropriate size for the yarn. Needles will change in size when working a re-gauged ruche.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

Cast On. If the ruffle is to begin at the expanded edge and work toward the narrow edge, the cast on cannot be too tight as it will restrict the flounce, but it cannot be too loose as it must support the fabric that follows. The type of cast on will depend on the yarn, needles and amount of ruffle. Always test the cast on by working a sample swatch to be sure it will work well with the ruffle.

Bind Off. When binding off a ruffled edge, be sure to bind off loosely so as not to restrict the ruffled edge. An adaptation of the three-needle bind off can be used to attach ruffles to each other. Rather than having the right sides facing, place one ruffle on top of the other with both right sides facing in the same direction. They should be on separate needles with both points facing right. Then work the three-needle bind off as you normally would.

Gauge. Measuring gauge requires a little extra care for both ruffles and ruches. To measure the gauge of a ruffle, work a gauge swatch in the fabric of the ruffle without the increases or decreases. The narrow section of the ruffle is the area that determines the usable section of the fabric as far as width. The narrow section must match the gauge of the pattern or will be the gauge used to determine the size, if designing. Row gauge is important to note. You may need to work more rows to get the correct length of the ruffle. If the ruffle is patterned, preplanning will be necessary to balance both the multiple and repeat on a ruffle.

Measuring gauge of ruched fabric is a bit trickier. Again the narrow section of the fabric will determine the final size of the piece. The wider section will crumple to fit into the area determined by the narrower section. Measure the stitch and row gauge of both the narrow and wide sections. Measure the wide section ruched or worked between the base fabrics rather than unruched. Row gauge of the ruched section will be important to note as this may need to be altered to get the length desired or specified by the pattern.

Always knit a gauge swatch of a ruffle or ruche not only to measure gauge but also to determine the final look of the ruffle or ruche. Be sure to block the swatch as the characteristics may change. You may find you want to adjust the number of stitches (or rows) to increase or decrease the flounce of the ruffle or ruche.

Blocking. The blocking method must be appropriate for the fiber used, so be sure to check the yarn label. Self-ruffling novelty yarns usually do not require blocking.

Ruffles worked in wool or wool blends, cotton, and some synthetics can be wet blocked. Soak the fabric as you normally would by soaking in room temperature to cool water. Remove and roll in towel to remove excess water. Bring to a blocking surface large enough to accommodate the project.


SWATCH 6

SWATCH 7

SWATCH 8

STITCH ANATOMY


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If the ruffle is attached as an edging to another piece, block that base piece first to the designated shape and size.

Next block the ruffle by pushing the fabric into the ruffle shape you desire. Use rustproof blocking pins to hold it in place. Allow the item to dry completely.

Blocking ruches can be a bit trickier because there is unruffled fabric surrounded by ruffled fabric. Begin by working the first unruched area to lie flat and in the desired shape, then block the ruched area following this section as described for a ruffle. Repeat this until the entire piece has been blocked. Use pins to keep the unruched areas flat and uninfluenced by their ruched neighbors and to keep the ruched areas undulated.

RUCHED PILLOW WITH WELTED SHORT ROW RUFFLE (LESSON PILLOW 1)BY LESLIE GONZALEZ

The base fabric is ruched using increases. The pillow is cast on using a provisional cast on. The front and back are made identically but separately. The sides are seamed. Stitches are picked up around the pillow beginning at the top left toward the bottom directly next to the left seam in the bars that separate the stitches. The provisional cast ons are removed with the front and back stitches placed on separate needles. The front and back stitches are then knit together. Stitches are picked up from the bottom of the pillow to the top on the pillow front directly next to the right seam. The pillow form is placed inside. The front and back top stitches are placed on separate needles and worked together. This forms the base for the ruffle which will be worked using short rows worked perpendicular to the pillow as an edging. The picked up stitches are eliminated as the ruffle is added.

Finished Measurements:8" x 8" without ruffle

STITCH ANATOMY

12" x 12" with ruffle

Materials:Plymouth GALWAY (210yds/192m, 100g, 100% wool): 2 skeins Eggplant #92Size 7 (4.5mm) needles or size needed to obtain gaugeSize 7 (4.5mm) 32” (80cm) circular needleor size needed to obtain gaugeSize H (5mm) crochet hookWaste yarn, worsted weight Tapestry needle8" x 8" pillow form

Gauge: In Ruched Fabric Sequence: 16 sts & 32 rows = 4"/10cm over the Garter stitch section.26 sts & 27 rows = 4"/10cm over the Stockinette stitch section. To save time, take time to check gauge.

TECHNICAL TIP – PREPARATION AND MEASURING GAUGE: You will want to check your gauge to ensure that your pillow comes out

to the correct measurements. The size of the piece is dependent on the gauges of the base fabric. To work a gauge swatch, cast on 24 sts, knit one row then work rows 1-12 in the Ruched fabric sequence, work rows 1-5 again. Bind off and steam block. Measure and calculate the stitch and row gauge over both the Garter and Stockinette sections using the gauge worksheet. Do not include the cast on, bind off or selvedges when you measure the fabric. Row gauge of the Stockinette is important to meet the height requirement of this project. You may need different needles for the Garter and Stockinette sections.

Abbreviations:Kfb – Knit into the front and back of the same stitch.K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together.K2tog tbl – Knit 2 stitches together through the back loop.

Stitch Patterns:Ruched Fabric Sequence:Rows 1, 3 & 5 (WS): Knit.Rows 2 & 4 (RS): Knit.Row 6 (Increase row): K2, *(kfb) twice, k1; rep from *, end k2 – (54 sts). Rows 7, 9, & 11: Purl.Rows 8 &10: Knit.Row 12 (Decrease row): K3, *(k2tog) twice, k1;

VIDEO LINKS

RUCHED PILLOW WITH WELTED SHORTROW RUFFLE


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rep from *, end k1.Short Row Ruffle:Row 1(RS): K9, turn.Row 2 (WS): P6 and turn. Row 3: K6, turn.Row 4: P6, k2, k2tog tbl, joining the last st of the ruffle with the next picked up st on the pillow, turn.Row 5: K3, p6, turn.Row 6: K6 and turn.Row 7: P6, turn.Row 8: K8, k2tog tbl, joining the last st of the ruffle with the next picked up st on the pillow, turn.

Pillow FrontTECHNICAL TIP: Place a knot at the end of the chain in the tail. This indicates where to begin taking the waste yarn out of the provisional cast on when needed.

Using crochet hook and worsted weight waste yarn, chain 44 stitches. Cut yarn, elongate final loop and gently secure. Leave 5 chains at each end unworked and, using the project yarn, pick up and knit 34 sts. Work rows 1-12 of Ruched Fabric Sequence five times ending with row 12. Work rows 1-5 again. Place all sts on waste yarn.

Pillow BackWork same as for pillow front.

Gently steam block both pieces.

Seam front and back together along the sides. Beginning at the top left, using circular needle pick up and knit 30 sts down the left side of the pillow front directly next to the seam, working in the same column of bars between sts. Remove the provisional cast ons from the front and back pieces and place on separate needles. With wrong sides together and needle points to the right (the pillow is upside down with the right side of the pillow facing you), continue across the bottom by knitting the first st on the front needle with the first st on the back needle, continue across until all 34 cast on sts have been worked together. Pick up and knit 30 sts in the column of bars between sts near the right seam. Place the pillow form inside. Remove the waste yarn from the bind off edges and place the front and back sts on separate needles. Work across the top of the pillow by knitting the first st on the front needle with the first st on the back needle, continue across until all 34 sts have been worked together –128 sts.

TECHNICAL TIP: To pick up stitches that are not along the selvedge, place the working needle under the strand that runs between two stitches. It looks like a bar. Place the needle

under this strand in the direction that you are working. For the left side of the pillow you will insert going from top to bottom; for the right side, insert bottom to top. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull the stitch under the running bar. For this project you only need to pick up 30 stitches, so you won’t pick up every bar. The project has both Garter stitch and Stockinette so you need to apply two ratios when picking up the stitches. Pick up every other bar along the Garter stitch section or two stitches, one in each of the ditch sections. In each of the Stockinette sections, pick up four stitches.

Begin working the Short Row Ruffle along the left side of the pillow as follows:

Using crochet hook and waste yarn, chain 19 sts. Cut yarn, elongate final loop, and gently secure as you did with the initial cast on. With second needle, leave 5 chains at each end unworked and, using the project yarn, pick up and knit 9 sts. Slide these sts to sit next to the first picked up st on the left needle that was used to pick up sts. Work rows 2-8 of the Short Row Ruffle to complete the first repeat, then work rows 1-8 fourteen more times down the left side.

Cont to work rows 1-8 of the short row ruffle pattern seventeen times across the bottom of the pillow, fifteen times up the right side of the pillow and finally seventeen times across the top of the pillow.

DESIGNER NOTES: Working across the chain to add the initial stitches creates row 1 of the ruffle pattern; therefore, the first repeat starts with row 2.

Additional rows are usually necessary at the corners to fill in the space created by rounding the corner, but due to the nature of the ruffle, extra fullness fills in this area, alleviating the tension that would normally be present.

TECHNICAL TIP: The ruffled short rows do not require a wrap and turn.

Graft the end of the ruffle to the beginning using the Kitchener graft technique. (See Pattern Basics in this issue.)


STITCH ANATOMY

GAUGE WORKSHEET

Determine Stitch Gauge

Width:1/8 = .125 1/4 = .253/8 = .375 1/2 = .505/8 = .625 3/4 = .757/8 = .875

Number of stitches:(Don’t include the selvedge stitches)

Divide the number of stitches by the width. This gives you the number of stitches per inch. Do not round off the number.

Number of stitches per inch:

Multiply the number of stitches per inch by 4 to get the number of stitches in four inches. Round the number up or down.

Number of stitches in 4 inches:

Repeat this procedure to determine the row gauge.

Determine Row/Round Gauge

Length:1/8 = .125 1/4 = .253/8 = .375 1/2 = .505/8 = .625 3/4 = .757/8 = .875

Number of rows:(do not include the cast on or bind off edge)

Divide the number of rows/rounds by the length. This gives you the number of rows/rounds per inch. Do not round off the number.

Number of rows per inch:Multiply the number of rows by 4. Round this number up or down.

Number of rows in 4 inches:

If you are getting fewer stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a smaller needle size. If you are getting more stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a larger needle size.


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TRICOLORED RUFFLE PILLOW(LESSON PILLOW 2)BY LESLIE GONZALEZ

The ruffles on this pillow are worked from the widest section to the narrowest using decreases. The number of stitches cast on is three times the number of stitches needed to match the pillow width. The ruffle is decreased to 36 stitches and then knit together with the base pillow stitches. The pillow back is worked in plain Stockinette stitch and seamed to the front.

Finished Measurements:9" x 9" square

Materials:Plymouth GALWAY (210yds/192m, 100g, 100% wool): 2 skeins Admiral #197 (A), 1 skein Almond #112 (B), and 1 skein Eggplant #92 (C)Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles or size needed to obtain gaugeExtra size 7 (4.5 mm) needle or size needed to obtain gaugeWaste yarn, worsted weight Tapestry needle9" x 9" pillow form

Gauge: In St st, 16 sts & 27 rows = 4"/10cm. To save time, take time to check gauge.

TECHNICAL TIP – PREPARATION AND MEASURING GAUGE: You will want to check your gauge to ensure that your pillow comes out to the correct measurements. The size of the pillow is dependent on the base pillow which is worked in Stockinette stitch. To work a gauge swatch for this project, cast on 20 sts and work in St st for 4". Bind off all stitches and block the swatch. Measure the 18 stitches between the selvedges and the rows between the cast on and bind off. Do not include the cast on, bind off, or selvedges. Use the gauge worksheet to determine both stitch and row gauge. You may need different needles.

Abbreviations:Sl2kp – Slip 2 sts together as if to knit, k1, pass the slipped sts over the st just knit. This forms a central double decrease.

Ruffle Pattern:CO 108 sts. Work in St st (k on RS, p on WS) for 10 rows, ending with a RS row. Next row (RS): *Sl2kp; rep from * to end – (36 sts). Work 3 more rows in St st, ending with a WS row. Cut yarn leaving a 6" tail and place all sts on waste yarn. Set ruffles aside.

Make 5 Ruffles:Using the Ruffle Pattern, make 5 ruffles, 2 in color A, 2 in color B, and 1 in color C.

Pillow Front Using A, CO 38 sts. Work in St st for 12 rows ending with a WS row. Join first ruffle in color A following the directions for the Ruffle Attachment Row.

Ruffle Attachment Row: Place ruffle on extra needle ready to work a RS row. Hold ruffle in front of base pillow with needles parallel and points to the right. Cont with the base yarn, color A, k1 from the pillow base (back) needle. Knit the first st on the front (ruffle) needle together with the next st on the back (base) needle. *K the next st on the front needle together with the next st on the back needle; rep from * until all sts on the front needle have been worked and one st remains on the back needle. K1 from back needle.

DESIGNER NOTE: The base fabric has 2 extra stitches at the selvedge. The ruffle is attached to the center. The 2 selvedge stitches are for seaming.

Work 11 rows in St st using A, ending with a WS row.Join second ruffle in color B following the directions for the Ruffle attachment row.Work 11 rows in St st using A, ending with a WS row.Join third ruffle in color C following the directions for the Ruffle attachment row.Work 11 rows in St st using A, ending with a WS row.Join second ruffle in color B following the directions for the Ruffle attachment row.Work 11 rows in St st using A ending with a WS row.Join last ruffle in color A following the directions for the Ruffle attachment row.Work 1 row in St st.BO all sts.

Pillow BackUsing A, CO 38 sts. Work in St st until piece measures 9" (61 rows). BO all sts.

FinishingWeave in ends. Block both pieces. See this video for blocking this piece: https://www.youtube.comwatch?v=HBvPCEmjJ4o.

Join sides and bottom. Insert pillow form and join top. Weave in seaming thread by inserting into seam. Pull through the fabric, stretching the tail. Cut and retract tail to inside of pillow

SourcesGott Warner, Kara. "Row and Rows of Ruffles Tutorial.” Creative Knitting Blog. Creative Knitting, 17 Apr. 2011. Web. 04 May 2015. <http://www.creativeknittingmagazine.com/blog/?p=46>.Hiatt, June, and Jesse Hiatt. The Principles of Knitting: Methods and Techniques of Hand Knitting. New York: Touchstone, 2012. 104-106, 222-223.“Self Ruffling Yarns.” Bella Yarns, 2015. Web. 04 May 2015. <http://www.bellayarns.com/Self_Ruffling_Yarns_s/1818.htm>.Stanley, Montse. Reader’s Digest Knitter’s Handbook. Pleasantville, NY: The Reader’s Digest Association, 2001. p. 103-104.

STITCH ANATOMY

TRICOLORED RUFFLE PILLOW


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RUFFLES AND RUCHES - The Knitting Guild Association